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Dơnload Coaching Basics 2nd Edition Lisa Haneberg Full Chapter
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with the soles of the soft-footed camels. Besides these forms a flat
rock surface with very shallow groves, known as rusuf, is
occasionally met with.
Some of the limestone boulders lying on the surface of the
plateau are perforated in the most extraordinary way. The driving
sand apparently eats its way into the softer portions of the stone,
boring holes into its surface. Small pebbles are often to be seen
which have been blown into these holes. These fly round and round
in the excavation under the influence of a strong wind, and
presumably continue the erosion of the sand blast, in the same way
as a stone wears a pot-hole in a stream. In course of time the whole
boulder becomes so riddled with holes as to resemble a gigantic
sponge.
In several places are large patches of desert more or less closely
covered with round boulders up to a foot in diameter, a type of
erosion known to the natives as battikh, or water-melon desert.
In other places in the desert perforated rocks and small natural
arches are to be seen; while near Farafra village were a number of
fine “mushrooms” and table stones cut out of the chalk by wind-
driven sand. Similar “mushrooms” of sandstone were, moreover, met
with near the centre of the desert.
In Kharga Oasis there is an area several square miles in extent
covered by curious clay ridges. These, which seemed all to be under
twenty feet high, were evidently formed by the erosion of the earth
by the wind-driven sand, for they all ran roughly from north to south,
in the direction of the prevailing wind.
Apparently, as the sand wore away and lowered the surface of the
desert, it encountered here and there harder portions of the clay
which resisted its erosive action. These consequently remained
protruding above the surface of the desert as the surrounding clay
was eaten away by the sand blast, and consequently acted as a
protection to the earth immediately to leeward of them, which
remained intact above the level of the desert in the form of a ridge
running in the direction of the prevailing northerly wind. I have found
similar forms to the west of Dakhla and in that oasis itself.
While in the central part of the desert in my first season, I found
embedded in a sand dune two short pieces of dried grass much
frayed and battered;[24] so, as has already been mentioned, on
leaving the camp next day, we followed the line of the sand belt, to
the north as showing the direction of the prevailing wind, and so
found the place from which the dried grass embedded in the dune
had come.
The occurrence of this grass so far to windward of the piece I had
picked up among the dunes is only another illustration of the great
part the strongly predominant character of the northerly wind plays in
this desert. Had we continued marching towards the north, along the
same bearing as we had during the day, we should have found the
oases, or hattias, of Bu Mungar, Iddaila and Sitra, all on the same
line. The original seed, of which the grass we found were the
descendants, were probably specimens carried by the wind from
Sitra to Iddaila, where they took root and produced seed that was
similarly carried to Bu Mungar and from thence—perhaps through
another hattia, or oasis—to the place where we found it growing.
Very probably the line of plantations of the grass may even reach to
the Sudan, should there be any places along it where the seed could
germinate.
ERODED ROCK, SOUTH-WEST OF DAKHLA.
NOTE
Since this Appendix was written, Hassanein Bey has visited and
fixed the positions of Arkenu and Owenat (Owanet). My information
upon Owanat seems to have been fairly accurate. The well at the
base of the cliff, the pass leading from it, the high-level oasis above,
the vegetation and the sand dunes in the district, and even the
Barbary sheep, have all been verified. The position I gave it, too,
from my native information was reasonably correct, being only about
twenty-one miles out, as compared with an error of about twenty-five
miles in the position of Kufara as fixed by Rohlfs’ expedition by
astronomical observations.
My estimate, however, of the nature of Jebel el Owanat—the high
land above the well—seems to have been wrong. But this, I think, is
due to misunderstanding on my part and not to any error on the part
of my informant. “Jebel”—the term he used to describe the high land
at Owanat, means literally mountain, but is a term used in the
western desert of Egypt to signify the high flat tablelands of which
the desert in that part is mainly composed. The oases in this district
all lie near the foot of the precipitous scarps that bound these
tablelands; so, as he mentioned a cliff in the proximity of the well at
Owanat, I assumed the “Jebel” to be of the same character as in the
neighbourhood of the Egyptian oases.
Hassanein Bey fixed the western limit of this elevated ground and
also its northern and southern boundaries, but though he made a
survey of some twenty-five miles to the east of the well, he was
unable to fix its eastern extension. So far as it is possible to judge
from his description and photographs, this elevated land seems to be
of much the same flat-topped character as the “jebels” round the
oases of Western Egypt, but so far as is at present known its limited
area makes it correspond more to Colonel Tilho’s estimate of its
character of a detached massif than to a tableland strictly speaking.
It is to be hoped that future travellers before long will revisit this
district and fix the eastern limit of Jebel el Owanat. Similar high
ground was reported to me as lying to the north of “the Egyptian
Oasis,” some 130 miles to the east of Owanat, and it is possible, if
this information is to be relied upon, that these two places are
connected by some hill feature, of which the high land at Owanat is
the western limit.
The accurate mapping of Owanat, with its permanent water
supply by Hassanein Bey, should be of great assistance to future
travellers, as it affords a most useful base for further exploration.
The difficulty, however, is to reach it. The old road that I surveyed
to the south-west of Dakhla Oasis for some 200 miles
unquestionably leads to Owanat; but it is very doubtful whether it is
practicable with camels at the present time. The distance from
Dakhla to Owanat in a straight line is some 375 miles, or at least
fifteen days’ hard travelling by caravan. A small well-mounted party
travelling light, even in the most favourable part of the year, would
find this an extremely formidable journey, without the use of some
sort of depot or relay system.
This road has been disused probably for centuries, as in most
places all traces have been completely weathered away. But from its
size in the few sheltered places where it is still visible it obviously at
one time was one of the main caravan routes of the desert.
Moreover, there were indications upon it that it had been largely
used by the old slave traders.
It can, I think, be assumed with absolute certainty that no main
road of this kind can have existed that contained a waterless stretch
of 375 miles—especially one over which large numbers of slaves
were forced to travel, as the water supply in these caravans was
always a most serious problem.
We are consequently forced to the conclusion that an
intermediate well, or oasis, once existed between Dakhla and
Owanat. It may have been only a well with an ordinary vertical shaft,
which has long since been sanded up and obliterated; but it may be
the oasis containing olive trees, on which the palm doves I found
migrating from this direction into Dakhla had been feeding. The
direction from which they came, viz. 217° Mag.,[25] I discovered
afterwards to be almost exactly the bearing of Jebel Abdulla from
Mut and so of the old road that we followed to reach it. Justus
Perthes’ map on a scale of 1/4.000.000, published in 1892, and also
the 1/2.000.000 map, revised to 1899, published by the French
Service géographique de l’Armée show an unnamed well, or oasis,
by a high steep hill and another oasis to the east of it. The German
map describes the oasis as being uninhabited, while the French
states it to be inhabited. It has been suggested that Arkenu
represents the well by the hill and Owanat the oasis farther east, and
there can be little doubt that this Arkenu-Owanat district is the one to
which they refer. But neither Arkenu nor Owanat can claim to be
oases strictly speaking—they would both be more accurately
described as wells: so it would appear that one of them—probably
Owanat—represents the well and that the oasis has yet to be found.
Very likely the failure of the water supply at this point led to the road
becoming abandoned. A road running up from the Central Sudan, as
this does, towards Cairo and the other wealthy towns of the northern
part of Egypt, where slave traders could find the best possible
market for their wares, must have been so convenient that it would
not have been abandoned without very good cause. If this road
could again be made serviceable by the restoration of this water
supply, it might still prove to be one of great value.
From what I saw of that part of the desert, I feel certain that this
intermediate oasis, or well, is not nearer Dakhla than Jebel Abdulla—
my farthest point along the road—nor can it be much farther. It is
certainly not in the immediate vicinity of that hill, but it cannot, I think,
be more than 50 or, at the outside, 75 miles farther on. It probably
lies rather to the east of the direct line joining the hill and Owanat, as
the road seemed to be trending rather in that direction.
But the most promising side from which to reach Owanat seems
to be from the east, using Bir Natrun, Legia, Selima or Terfawi as a
jumping-off point. My information as to Merga was derived from
several informants whose intelligence—with one exception—all
agreed in the distance and bearings from Bir Natrun and Legia, so,
assuming these two places to be correctly placed on the map, the
position of Merga is not likely to be very far in error. The “Egyptian
Oasis”—if it exists—would make a still better starting-point.
Assuming that it does, there should be no difficulty in discovering it,
as it would only be necessary to follow the line of the sand dunes
until it was sighted.
APPENDIX II
I. IDENTIFIED AT TRING
Arctiidæ