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tree, destroyed by the attacks of the white ant, had fallen, and
afforded us fire-wood to prepare our supper: to seek it at any
distance would have been dangerous at that time in the evening, on
account of the lions, and the little grass which was gathered for our
horses was furnished by the space within sight of our tents. Our
animals were brought as close to us as possible, and we kept up
fires the greater part of the night; a few roaring salutations, and
those principally from the elephant and jackal, were the only
disturbance that we met with.
We proceeded on our course on the following day, winding with
the river; in several places we had the bank clear of trees and
covered with verdure for some hundreds of yards, and the stream
nearly as broad as the Thames at Richmond. Towards noon the
wood became much thicker, no pathway was to be discovered, and
our guide declared, that where we were he had not the least idea. A
little further on, we came to a complete stoppage; brambles were
wound round the before thickly-clustered branches of tulloh and
prickly acacias; and on removing, with great difficulty, some of those,
we found the treacherous grass underneath merely covering
blaquas, large, deep, and well staked, capable of receiving and
destroying a Tuarick with his maherhy. In endeavouring to find a
passage at a short distance, Dr. Oudney was very nearly
precipitated, horse and all, into one of these graves for the quick. We
were absolutely afraid to move; and Omar Gana, who declared these
fortifications indicated our being near to some town, which was thus
prepared against the Mungowy, desired me to fire a gun, in order to
bring some of the inhabitants to serve as our guide: accordingly two
sturdy negroes came to our assistance, who, after eying us through
the trees and ascertaining who we were, conducted us to the village,
which, although at no great distance, would have foiled all our efforts
to discover: the avenues were completely barricadoed on every side,
the paths cut up, and these blaquas so scattered in all directions,
that even with a guide, and going one by one, it was with the
greatest difficulty we avoided them.
Arrived at the village, which was called Wallad, of so miserable a
description that it could not even furnish a jar of milk, notwithstanding
we produced both needles and beads,—a new difficulty arose; for
although the camels were sought after and brought in safe by the
people, yet my servant Columbus, who was behind on a mule, did
not make his appearance: we were in considerable anxiety, both on
account of the wild beasts and these pits, which were almost equally
frightful. Our alarm was a good deal increased when, after having
sent people in every direction, giving them pistols, and desiring them
to fire signals, and not return without him, the people of the village
came running to the jujube tree under which we were resting, to tell
us that Columbus and the mule had fallen into one of these blaquas,
and that they believed the mule was dead. We hastened to the spot,
and found the poor mule indeed very near it: she was sticking on
four stakes, one in her flank, and two in her hind quarter, with her
knees dreadfully torn by struggling. Had she been a larger and
heavier animal, nothing could have saved her: the man had, by a
violent exertion, thrown himself out, how he knew not, almost as
soon as he fell in, and had escaped with his leg only bruised. He
said he had lost his way hours before, and had climbed to the top of
several tamarind-trees, in order to discover traces of our route,
without success: once he thought he heard a gun, but having only
two charges of powder with him, he kept them as a defence against
the wild animals at night, and was afraid to answer the signal.
After all our difficulties, it was some comfort at length to find that
the sheikh was within only a few hours’ march of us, on the south
side of the river; and in the evening we determined on joining him.
Again, therefore, crossing the Yeou at a dry spot, we came to the
outskirts of the Bornou camp, on the banks of a large water called
Dummasak, about five miles distant from the ford: at the river we
again saw the footmarks of a very large lion, and also those of a
hippopotamus. It was after sunset when we arrived, and passing
through numerous groups of the Kanemboo spearmen, who were
lying about without any tents or covering, we came to the open
space where the sheikh’s tent and the huts of his principal people
were fixed. On learning that we had arrived, he desired our tents
might be placed near Mady Gana, the manager of his household,
who brought us his congratulations, and at the same time a very
good supper of Guinea fowl, and a kind of paste, made of wheat
flour, called ftat, which is considered a great delicacy. Our joy can
with difficulty be imagined at learning here the arrival of a package
from England, by a kafila of merchants from Fezzan. The pleasure of
hearing of our country and friends, the greatest enjoyment our
situation allowed us, we had been for a length of time deprived of;
and this, added to our being entirely destitute of provisions of every
kind, determined us to return to Kouka on the following morning. This
our decision we desired might be made known to the sheikh, but,
from some cause or other, the information was not communicated to
him; and, to our great surprise, by daylight he moved off, and we
found ourselves again alone without a guide, and without even
knowing what the sheikh’s wishes were with respect to our
proceedings. This was a fresh dilemma; and upon the whole we
were worse off than the day before, for the sheikh’s negro was
always a protection, and we were now at the tail of an undisciplined
army, at least demi-savage, without any knowledge of the road. After
three hours’ deliberation, and no intelligence arriving from the
sheikh, we decided on making our way to Kouka alone; and having
picked up a straggler, who assured us he knew the country, and left
our wounded mule in the care of some people in the neighbouring
village of huts, we loaded our fire-arms afresh, and commenced our
route. We had proceeded, however, but a few hundred yards on our
road, when Omar Gana, mounted on a miserable horse and in great
distress, came up to us, entreating that we would follow the sheikh
as quickly as possible; that on inquiring of him where we were, and
finding that he had quitted us, he, the sheikh, had been in a violent
passion; had struck him from his horse, which he desired might be
taken from him; had directed him to return and bring us up to the
army without delay.
We had now nothing to do but to obey; and, therefore, turning
round our camels, after a four hours’ march in the heat of the day,
we arrived a second time at the lake Muggaby, which we had left
only three days before. Some spots on the road were extremely
picturesque, by nature; and this beauty of the scene was increased
by the groups of naked warriors, with their shields, resting in different
places on the borders of the lake; while hundreds of others were in
the water, spearing the fish, which they struck, and brought to shore
with very surprising dexterity: some of the fish were as large as
good-sized salmon, but shaped like a bream. Fires were lighted by
their companions on the shore, and rows of from fifty to one hundred
were staked, or strung on a line made of grass, extended from two
sticks, and most excellently and expeditiously roasted.
Muggaby, with its still dark-blue surface, had, at the time we came
on it, an appearance highly interesting: the margin, and the shallow
waters, were crowded with horses feeding, and men bathing. In the
centre, the hippopotami were constantly throwing up their black
muzzles, spouting with water; and the wood, which at the south-west
end had caught fire, and blazed to the very clouds, gave a glare to
all around which made the scene almost terrific.
We now commenced our march with the Bornou army, in which
but little order is preserved previous to coming near the enemy:
every one appears to know, that at a certain point the assembly is to
take place; and the general instructions seem to be to every one to
make the best of his own way. The sheikh takes the lead, and close
after him comes the sultan of Bornou, who always attends him on
these occasions, although he never fights. The former is preceded
by five flags, two green, two striped, and one red, with extracts from
the Koran written on them in letters of gold, and attended by about a
hundred of his chiefs and favourite slaves. A negro, high in
confidence, rides close behind him, bearing his shield jacket of mail,
and wearing his skull-cap of steel; he also bears his arms. Another,
mounted on a swift maherhy, and fantastically dressed with a straw
hat and ostrich feathers, carries his timbrel or drum, which it is the
greatest misfortune and disgrace to lose in action. On the expedition
which cost the sultan Denhamah, the late sultan of Bornou, his life,
the timbrel and the sheikh were supposed to have fallen in a sudden
rush of Begharmis; almost every one near him suffered. The people,
however, firmly believe that he was saved by a miracle; they say, “he
became invisible; that the Begharmi chiefs scoured the field, calling
out for the sheikh; that his drum sounded at intervals, but could not
be seen, any more than their leader.” Close in the rear of the
maherhies follow the eunuchs and the harem; the sheikh takes but
three wives, who are mounted, astride, on small trained horses, each
led by a boy-slave, or eunuch,—their heads and figures completely
enveloped in brown silk bornouses, and a eunuch riding by the side
of each.
From a Sketch by Major Denham. Engraved by E. Finden.
The sultan of Bornou has five times as many attendants, and his
harem is three times as numerous: he is attended, also, by men
bearing trumpets (frumfrum), of hollow wood, ten and twelve feet
long; with these a kind of music is constantly kept up. As this
instrument is considered an appendage of royalty alone, the sheikh
has no frumfrums; the keigomha, or standard-bearer, rides in front of
him, carrying a very long pole, hung round, at the top, with strips of
leather and silk of various colours, in imitation, probably, of the
bashaw’s tigue, or tails; and two ride on each side of him called
Meestrumha Dundelmah, carrying immense spears, with which they
are supposed to defend their sultan in action, whose dignity would
be infringed upon by defending himself; but the spears are so hung
round with charms, and the bearers so abominably unwieldy, that the
idea of such weapons being of any use in the hands of such warriors
is absurd. Indeed the grotesque appearance of the whole of this
prince’s train, with heads hung round with charms, and resembling
the size and shape of a hogshead; their protruding stomachs, and
wadded doublets, are ridiculous in the extreme.
The town of Kabshary, where we halted, had been nearly
destroyed by the Mungowy. On attacking a place, it is the custom of
the country instantly to fire it; and as they are all composed of straw
huts only, the whole is shortly devoured by the flames. The
unfortunate inhabitants fly quickly from the destructive element, and
fall immediately into the hands of their no less merciless enemies,
who surround the place: the men are quickly massacred, and the
women and children lashed together, and made slaves. Rhamadan,
one of the sheikh’s chiefs, a slave from Soudan, had been stationed
here for the last fifteen days, and under his protection the survivors
of the attack had returned, and were already rebuilding their
dwellings. The huts are convenient, and, from the abundance of long
straw which the overflowed grounds near the river furnished them,
are better built, and withstand the rain better, than those of Kouka:
they are divided on the inside by mats, which the women make with
great neatness; they have all of them a door of plaited straw in a
frame of wood; and some of the habitations of the principals have a
wall of mats round them, leaving an inclosure, in which is sometimes
a second hut for the female slaves, and the cow or goats which
supply them with milk. These unfortunate people seldom think of
defending their habitations, but rather give them up, and by that
means gain time to escape themselves, should the attack not be
made in the night, and the whole set fire to, before they have time to
fly. The Kabsharians had long been in dread of a visit from the
people of Munga, and, on their approach, the greater part of them
had retreated to the banks of the river, to the north-west of the town,
which are there extremely high; and they had made a strong post, by
digging blaquas, and placing pointed crossed stakes in trenches,
which rendered their retreat nearly inaccessible.
June 1.—The sun had scarcely risen this morning, when the
sheikh was on horseback inspecting his favourite troops, the
Kanemboo infantry: a hollow space under some sandhills, called
Cornamaree, was chosen, about a quarter of a mile from the camp,
and the whole was conducted with a good deal of order and system.
He was attended to the ground by the four sultans who accompanied
the expedition under his orders, and a circle was formed by the
Arabs and the Bornou horse. The sheikh’s principal slaves and
commanders were dispersed in different parts, habited in their
scarlet bornouses with gold lace, and surrounded also by their
followers. His own dress was, as usual, neat and simple: two white
figured muslin tobes, very large, with a bornouse of the same colour,
and a Cashemere shawl for a turban, composed his dress; over the
whole, across his shoulders, hung the sword which, as he repeatedly
said, “the sultan Inglese had sent him.” He was mounted on a very
beautiful bright bay horse from Mandara, and took his station on the
north side of the circle; while the Kanemboos were drawn up on the
opposite extremity in close column, to the number of nine thousand.
On the signal being made for them to advance, they uttered a yell, or
shriek, exceeding any thing in shrillness I ever heard; then
advanced, by tribes of from eight hundred to one thousand each.
They were perfectly naked, with the exception of a rather fantastical
belt of the goat or sheep’s skin, with the hair outwards, round their
middles, and a few gubkas (narrow strips of cloth, the money of the
country), round their heads, and brought under the nose; their arms
are a spear and shield, with a dagger on the left arm reversed,
secured by a ring which goes on the wrist, the point running up the
arm, and the handle downwards. The shields are made of the wood
of the fogo, a tree which grows in the shallow waters of the great
lake, and are so extremely light, as to weigh only a few pounds; the
pieces of wood of which it is formed are bound together by thongs of
the hide of bullocks with the hair on, which is also carried along the
edge of the outside of the shield in vandykes and forms an
ornament; they are something the shape of a gothic window, and
most of them slightly convex. Under cover of these, the Kanemboo
attack the bowmen with great order, and at a slow pace. Their
leaders are mounted, and are distinguished merely by a tobe of dark
blue, and a turban of the same colour.
On nearing the spot where the sheikh had placed himself they
quickened their pace, and, after striking their spears against their
shields for some seconds, which had an extremely grand and
stunning effect, they filed off to the outside of the circle, where they
again formed, and awaited their companions, who succeeded them
in the same order. There appeared to be a great deal of affection
between these troops and the sheikh; he spurred his horse onwards
into the midst of some of the tribes as they came up, and spoke to
them, while the men crowded round him, kissing his feet, and the
stirrups of his saddle. It was a most pleasing sight; he seemed to feel
how much his present elevation was owing to their exertions, while
they displayed a devotion and attachment deserving and denoting
the greatest confidence. I confess I was considerably disappointed at
not seeing these troops engage, although more than compensated
by the reflection of the slaughter that had been prevented by that
disappointment.
On seeing the sheikh after this inspection, he asked me what I
thought of his Kanemboos: I could not help expressing my pleasure
at their orderly and regular appearance, and he smiled when I
assured him that I thought with such troops as these he need fear
but little the attempts of the Arabs and Fezzaneers. Rhamadan, who
had been stationed at Kabshary since the burning of the town, gave
me an account of a second attack made by the Mungowy since his
arrival. He had about two hundred and fifty people with him, amongst
whom were about a dozen Arabs in the sheikh’s service, who had
guns. Eight or nine hundred of Munga people made their
appearance by daylight one morning, principally to try the strength of
their enemies, which it was, of course, Rhamadan’s business to
prevent their ascertaining. He succeeded in driving them back,
although not without some loss, quite to the inclosed country, where
they had greatly the advantage of him, and killed nearly thirty of his
men with their arrows. Rhamadan now practised a ruse de guerre,
by which means he destroyed nearly half the force of his enemies:—
He appeared to give up the chase, and retired with his party; towards
evening, however, he moved round by the river to a watering-place,
where he expected the Mungowy would go to drink and refresh
themselves, and rushing upon them unperceived, slaughtered
upwards of four hundred.
From a Sketch by Major
Engraved by E. Finden.
Denham’s.
KANEMBOO
MUNGA BOWMAN.
SPEARMAN.
IN THE SERVICE OF THE SHEIKH OF BORNOU.
Published Feb. 1826, by John Murray, London.