Relationship between fiber and yarn characteristics 8

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8 Relationship between fiber and yarn characteristics.......................... 8-1

8.1 Fiber-to-yarn relationship...............................................................................................................8-1

8.1.1 Fiber length versus yarn count / ring-spun yarn / cotton 100%.....................................................8-1
8.1.2 Fiber length versus yarn count / rotor-spun yarn / cotton 100% ...................................................8-2
8.2 Yarn evenness...............................................................................................................................8-2
8.2.1 Yarn evenness versus fiber fineness ............................................................................................8-2
8.2.2 Yarn evenness versus number of fibers in cross-section / measured evenness and limit
irregularity ......................................................................................................................................8-3
8.2.3 Yarn evenness versus short fiber content .....................................................................................8-4
8.3 Yarn imperfections.........................................................................................................................8-4
8.3.1 Yarn thick and thin places versus short fiber content....................................................................8-4
8.3.2 Neps in yarns versus neps in raw material....................................................................................8-5
8.4 Yarn strength versus fiber strength ...............................................................................................8-5
8.5 Yarn elongation versus fiber elongation ........................................................................................8-6
8.6 Yarn hairiness versus short fiber content ......................................................................................8-6

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 Relationship between fiber and yarn characteristics 8

8 Relationship between fiber and yarn characteristics

8.1 Fiber-to-yarn relationship

Uster Technologies has introduced more than 60 quality characteristics in the past 50 years. In
addition, our company permanently measures fiber and yarn samples from all over the world to
determine the quality characteristics for the USTER® STATISTICS. Therefore, a considerable amount
of know-how to describe the physical properties of yarns could be collected.

Furthermore, Uster Technologies offers training courses either in Uster or in the mills of our
customers. Our textile technologists are asked many questions which deal with the relationship
between fiber and yarn characteristics.

The following graphical representations show the relationship between the fiber and yarn
characteristics.

8.1.1 Fiber length versus yarn count / ring-spun yarn / cotton 100%

Twist (t.p.m.) 1 7/8" Warp yarn

1 1/8" 1 1/2"
1500 1 1/16" Weft yarn
1400
1300 1"
Hosiery yarn
1200
1100
1000
900
800
700
600
500
400
Count
5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 25 30 35 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 140 Ne

Fig. 8-1

Fine yarns require long staple fibers and high twist. Coarse yarns can be produced with short fibers
and low twist. The relationship is shown in Fig. 8-1.

Example: It is recommended to select a fiber length between 1” to 11/16” for the count range Nec 5 to
Nec 20.

The recommended fiber lengths with respect to yarn count is represented in Fig. 8-1. The warp yarns
are the yarns with the highest twist. The twist of weft yarns is approximately 10% lower than the warp
yarns. The twist of hosiery yarns is approximately 20% lower than the warp yarns.

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8 Relationship between fiber and yarn characteristics

8.1.2 Fiber length versus yarn count / rotor-spun yarn / cotton 100%

Fig. 8-2 shows the relationship between fiber length, count and twist for OE rotor yarns. The shortest
fibers are comber noil and cotton waste. These short fibers are not suitable for fine OE rotor-spun
yarns.

Twist (t.p.m.)

1200 3

1000 4
1 2

800

5
600

400

Count
3 6 10 20 30 40 Ne
Source: Rieter

Fig. 8-2

Explanation of figures:
1 = Comber noil (αe = 5.1)
2 = Cotton waste (αe = 5.0)
3 = Cotton 1“ - 11/8“ (αe = 4.7)
4 = Synthetic fibers 38 mm (αe = 3)
5 = Twist for hosiery yarns, raw mat. according to 3, 4 (αe = 3.2 to 4.1)

8.2 Yarn evenness

8.2.1 Yarn evenness versus fiber fineness

Yarn evenness

Fiber
coarse fine fineness

Fig. 8-3

8-2 USTER® HVI

 Relationship between fiber and yarn characteristics 8

For a given count the evenness depends on the fiber fineness. The evenness can be lowered by
using fine fibers. The theoretical background is Martindale’s formula:
1
CVlim = • 100%
n

CVlim = Limit irregularity

n = number of fibers in the cross-section

8.2.2 Yarn evenness versus number of fibers in cross-section / measured evenness and limit
irregularity

Yarn evenness

measured
evenness

limit a
irregularity
b
Fibers in
cross-section
100 3'000

Fig. 8-4

The limit irregularity can be reached in case of an ideal distribution of fibers. The ratio between the
evenness value obtained under practical conditions and the limit irregularity is called the “irregularity
index I”.
CVm a
I = =
CVlim b

CVm = Measured evenness

CVlim = Limit irregularity

Hence, if for a given yarn count the number of fibers in the cross-section is high, the evenness is low
and vice versa.

The number of fibers in the cross-section of coarse yarns is high. As a result, the yarn evenness of
coarse yarns is low (Martindale’s formula). A few missing fibers, therefore, can hardly affect the
evenness in coarse yarns, whereas a few missing fibers in fine yarns can be substantial.

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8 Relationship between fiber and yarn characteristics

8.2.3 Yarn evenness versus short fiber content

Yarn unevenness

Short
high fiber content
low

Fig. 8-5

High short fiber content increases the yarn unevenness of ring-spun yarns because the short fibers
cannot be controlled in the drawing zone. Therefore, it is required to reduce the amount of short fibers
for fine yarns.

8.3 Yarn imperfections

8.3.1 Yarn thick and thin places versus short fiber content

Thick places
Thin places

Short fiber
content
low high

Fig. 8-6

The number of thin and thick places increases with the amount of short fibers. Since the short fibers
can hardly be controlled in the drawing zone, it leads to a formation of thick and thin places.

8-4 USTER® HVI

 Relationship between fiber and yarn characteristics 8

8.3.2 Neps in yarns versus neps in raw material

Neps in yarns

Neps in
raw material
low high

Fig. 8-7

There is a strong relationship between neps in yarns and neps in raw material. More neps in the raw
material result in more neps in yarns under the same process conditions.

8.4 Yarn strength versus fiber strength

Yarn strength
Compact yarn
Combed yarn
Carded yarn
OE rotor yarn

Fiber
strength
low high

Fig. 8-8

There is a strong correlation between yarn strength and fiber strength for a given twist.

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8 Relationship between fiber and yarn characteristics

8.5 Yarn elongation versus fiber elongation

Yarn elongation

Fiber
high elongation
low

Fig. 8-9

There is a strong correlation between fiber elongation and yarn elongation for a given twist.

8.6 Yarn hairiness versus short fiber content

Yarn hairiness

Short fiber
high content
low

Fig. 8-10

It is more difficult to integrate short fibers into the yarn body during the yarn formation process. Many
short fibers protrude from the yarn body and contribute considerably to the yarn hairiness.

The 50%-line of hairiness for carded cotton yarns, Nec 30, for knitted fabrics in the USTER®
STATISTICS is on a level of 5,5, whereas a cotton yarn of the same count and for the same purpose,
but combed, is on a level of 4,8 because of the elimination of a considerable amount of short fibers.

8-6 USTER® HVI