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These are attached to the door with a few large, oval-headed nails
painted black. Sheet-lead escutcheons and hinge-straps can be
made and applied to the wood with oval-headed upholsterers’ nails
painted black. Any other metal-work in the room is to be coated
black.
Pink, black, and cream, or pale-green, black, and ivory color make
pleasing and cheerful combinations for bedroom decoration, and
they do not become tiresome.
A feature in this scheme is the mode of suspending small pictures
from the rail by means of harness-rings and large-headed nails
painted black. The larger pictures hung above the rail are arranged
so that the bottom of each is on a line with or touches the rail.
A Boy’s Room
The arrangement and scheme for one side of a model boy’s room
is shown in Fig. 5. In this attractive room the wood-work is white, or
very light in color, and the walls a soft, light-tea or olive green. The
border above the picture-moulding is a light shade of old pink ingrain
paper on which the wreath and garland border is painted in fresco
colors or stencilled.
At one side of the room a generous chest of drawers can be built
in a corner, and three feet up from the floor a long drop-ledge may
be made fast to the wall and arranged so that hinge-brackets will
support it. When not in use for drawing or studying, the brackets can
be folded in against the wall and the ledge dropped down. Above this
ledge, and extending from the chest of drawers to a window or door,
a compartment-nest of shelves may be made from three boards with
shorter ones for partitions. This is supported every two feet of its
length with brackets screwed securely to the under side of the
bottom shelf and to the wall. At the top it is also secured with small
strips of metal screwed fast to the back edge of the top shelf, and
through which screws pass into the wall. Short curtains of some light
material may be hung from a wire stretched along the under side of
the top shelf and caught up to it in one or two places with staples.
fig. 5—a boy’s study room
Stencilling
When cutting your stencils, keep turning the oil-board so that you
always make the cut towards you. Lay the material on a smooth
piece of close-grained wood, or a sheet of zinc, and hold your knife
with the blade in a vertical position, and not to one side or the other.
Do not make bevelled cuts. Straight ones are necessary or there will
be smeared edges.
For a stencil-plate to make the garland and ribbon border shown in
the frieze of the room (Fig. 4), a one-half section only is necessary
(see Fig. 11). The full length of a garland is marked on the wall by
indicated dots, with chalk or pencil; then the half garlands are
stencilled all around the room. When completed, the stencil-plate is
carefully wiped off; then it is reversed and the remaining halves are
done. The stencil-plate for the wreath ribbon and garland border
shown in the room (Fig. 5) is illustrated at Fig. 12. This is a half
garland and wreath, and is used as described for Fig. 11. The
stencil-plate shown in Fig. 13 can be used as the frieze or border in
Fig. 6. This is an empire design, and its dignity and beauty make it a
fitting ornament for any room in a house.
Chapter XX
NOOKS FOR BOOKS
A Wall-rack
The ornament under the lower shelf of the rack is drawn on the
bare wood, and tinted in colors to match the natural flowers and
leaves. Use oil-paints thinned slightly with turpentine, so as to give
the appearance of a stain or dye rather than of an opaque color. All
the wood-work is then stained some desired shade, and the outline
of the ornament is either burned pyrographically or lined with dark-
brown paint in imitation of a burned line. A bluish-gray is a pretty
color for this wall-rack, and it can be made by thinning Payne’s gray
and adding a small proportion of any good blue, such as cobalt,
ultramarine, or cerulean. The stain should be applied thin, with a flat
brush, and then partially wiped off with a soft rag. When dry, a coat
or two of shellac will give a lustre to the stain, hold the color, and
render an egg-shell gloss to the wood-work. (See Chapter XII. for
instruction in Pyrography.)
A Book-nest
A book-nest of quaint shape is shown in Fig. 4. It is formed of a
back-board, two shelves, three brackets, and two slats that connect
the shelves at the ends. This is a small piece of furniture and is
intended to fill a small space; it should be from eighteen to twenty-
four inches long. The shelves should be ten inches apart, and the
under side of the lower one is supported by a long bracket, at the
middle of which small corner shelves are arranged, as shown in the
illustration. Holes may be made in these brackets, through which the
stems of pipes can be inserted. The curved parts of the wall-plate
are cut with a compass-saw and finished off with a wood-file.
It is not necessary that this home-made furniture should be
absolutely smooth or the lines perfectly straight. A slight variation
from the manner in which shop-made furniture is constructed adds to
the effectiveness of these book-racks and holders, and gives them
the rough-and-ready artistic appearance that is characteristic of the
“mission” and other popular styles of modern craftsmanship.
Another Book-rack
A Book-tower
Hanging-shelves
A Book-castle
Fig. 11.
In the design for a book-castle (Fig. 11) the shelves and rails are
arranged in such a manner that books may be slipped in from the
front and also from both sides. The lower shelf is devoted to large
volumes, portfolios, or serial publications in large sheets. The top
shelf and the one under it are for volumes of medium size, while the
small deck above the shelves makes a convenient receptacle for
magazines.
The wood-work should be stained and varnished, or painted to
match the trim of the room.
A Book-chair
A Book-table
A Magazine-rack
From half-inch wood cut three shelves fifteen inches long and six
inches wide; also two corner-posts from wood an inch square. Cut
the end of each shelf as shown in Fig. 18 B, so that one notch will fit
against the upright and the other against the corner-post. From the
half-inch wood cut two brackets three inches long and two and a half
inches wide at the top, as shown at Fig. 18 C. These hold up the
bottom shelf, and the other shelves are supported in turn by the
corner-posts and the back, to which the shelves are securely
attached with screws and glue. The corner-posts are fifteen inches
high, and near the top laps are cut half an inch deep and one inch
wide into which a cross-rail will fit. Three thin slats one inch in width
and six inches long are made fast across the front, and above the
top shelf, to form the pamphlet or periodical rack. The nail and screw
heads may be covered with brass upholsterers’ tacks painted black
to suggest the idea of a large nail, or imitation wrought-iron nail-
heads may be made by cutting disks out of sheet-lead and slightly
beating the edges so as to imitate the hammer-marks of wrought-
iron work. These disks are secured to the wood with slim steel nails,
the heads of which, when driven in with a light hammer, become
imbedded in the soft lead. A subsequent coating of black paint will
conceal the nail-heads completely.
A Box Book-case
A Nursery Book-rack
When fastening this case to the wall, it would be well to drive two
or three screws through the back of the box and into the wall-
studding, otherwise the weight of books might tear it away from its
bracket anchorage.
Another Book-rack