Summer Ella

Even though it looks complicated this very fine leaf patterned yoke is not hard to knit. The
shape of the sweater is short and a bit spacious. It is worked top down and higher at the
back neckline (after the edging) to make the sweater fit.

XS S M L XL
Sizes
XS (S, M, L, XL)

Finished measurements
Chest circomference: 34½ (38, 41¾, 44, 47¼ in / 88 (97, 106, 112, 120) cm
Total length: 21 (21¼, 21¾, 22, 22½) in / 53 (54, 55, 56, 57) cm

Yarn
Sandnes Garn Line
53% cotton, 33% viscose, 14% lin, 50 g = 120 yd / 110 m.
Karri 2146: 300 (300, 350, 350, 400) g

The Summer Ella pattern is suitable for all yarns that knit to a gauge of 20 sts in St st.

Recommended needles
Double pointed needles US sizes 4 and 6 / 3 and 4 mm.
Circular needles US sizes 4 and 6, 16 in / 3 and 4 mm (40 cm).
Circular needles US sizes 4 and 6, 32 in / 3 and 4 mm (80 cm).

Gauge
20 sts in St st on larger needles = 4 in / 10 cm.

Shape
Summer Ella is a bit spacious. It is a size S and the model wearing it normally wears a size S.

German Short Rows

A hole is easily made having turned your knitting after working a short row. This hole can
be prevented in different ways i.e. by working a yarn over (yo)/yarn round needle (yrn) –
depending on whether the following stitch is to be knitted or purled – and then working the
yo/yrn together with the stitch on the opposite side of the turn, when working across it
later. My favorite method in preventing holes is called German Short Rows, using a “double
stitch” (ds): After having worked a short row and turned, slip the first stitch on the left hand
needle to the right hand needle keeping the strand in front (– if the last stitch you worked
before turning was a knit stitch the strand will already be in front of your work. In case the
last stitch worked before the turn was a purl stitch, the strand has to be brought to the front
between the needles before you slip the double stitch). Then pull the strand upwards over
the needle and tighten, in order to make the “slipped stitch” tighter and into “two stitches”
on the needle. Work to the end of the row/the next turn. On a following row – when you
have to work past the double stitch – work the “two stitches” together as one stitch. To see
how it’s done, search the internet/YouTube for German Short Rows.

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Abbreviations
CO cast on
k knit
k2tog knit 2 together (right-slanting decrease)
m meter(s)
M1 make 1 = lift strand between 2 sts and knit into back loop
mm millimeter(s)
p purl
PM place marker
p2tog purl 2 together
rnd round(s)
RS right side
Sl slip
Sts stitches
SSK slip, slip, knit (left-slanting decrease) = sl 1 knitwise, sl 1 knitwise, knit together tbl.
Tbl through back loop
WS wrong side
Yd(s) yard(s)
Yo yarn over
yrn yarn round needle

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Summer Ella
Yoke
Work top down. Using smaller and shorter circular needle CO 84 (90, 96, 96, 102) sts and join.
Rib rnd: (P1, k1) to end.
Work another 6 rib rnd’s. Change to larger and shorter circular needle (change to longer circular
needle when necesserary).
PM at beg of rnd, which marks the centre of the back.
Next rnd (RS): P3, (k1, p5) to last 3 sts; k1, p2.
Now work in short rows to make the sweater longer at the back.
Next row (RS): Work 34 (37, 40, 40, 43) sts as they appear. Turn, GSR, work 66 (72, 78, 78, 84) sts as
they appear. *Turn, GSR, work the sts as they appear until 3 sts remain before the previous turn*.
Work from * to * a total of 4 times.
Next row (RS): Turn, GSR, work sts as they appear to end of rnd/centre back.
The work has now been turned 3 times at each side.
Next rnd: Pattern all sts according to chart.
When you have worked all the way through the entire chart, you have a total of 252 (270, 288, 288,
306) sts on your circular needle. Your garment measures approximately 6¾ in / 17 cm (excl. the neck
border).
Continue working in St st as follows.
Work 2 rnds in St st.
Increase rnd 1: K9, M1, [k18, M1] 13 (14, 15, 15, 16) times, k9 (= 14 (15, 16, 16, 17) new sts).
M1 by using the left hand needle to pick up the thread between two sts from front to back and
then knit it through the back loop. 266 (285, 304, 304, 323) sts.

Sizes M, L and XL:

Work 2 rnds in St st.
Increase rnd 2: [K19, M1] (16, 16, 17) times (= (16, 16, 17) new sts) = (320, 320, 340) sts.

Sizes L and XL:

Work 2 rnds in St st.
Increase rnd 3: K10, M1, [k20, M1] (16, 17) times, k10 (= (16, 17) new sts) = (336, 357) sts.

All sizes:
You have now increased a total of 1 (1, 2, 3, 3) times = 266 (285, 320, 336, 357) sts.
To find out if the height of the yoke fits you – try on your sweater. If necessary work another 2-4
rnds in St st after the last increase rnd.
Now place 4 markers as follows: Count 39 (43, 47, 51, 55) sts = left half of back, PM, count and place
next 55 (58, 65, 67, 70) sts on a thread = sleeve, PM, count 79 (84, 97, 101, 108) sts =
front, PM, count and place next 55 (58, 65, 67, 70) sts on a thread = sleeve, PM, the last 38 (42, 46,
50, 54) sts = right half of back.

Work the back and front together to end as follows.

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Back and front together
Next rnd: K39 (43, 47, 51, 55) = left back, CO 10 (12, 11, 11, 11) sts, k79 (84, 97, 101, 108) = front, CO
10 (12, 11, 11, 11) sts, k38 (42, 46, 50, 54) = right back = 176 (193, 212, 224, 239) sts.
Join and PM at beg of rnd.
Work in St st in the round, until the sweater measures 2 in / 5 cm less than total length (below the
armhole your garment should measure app 10,5 in / 26 cm). Size S og XL: Inc 1 st.
All sizes: 176 (194, 212, 224, 240) sts.
Change to smaller circular needle.
Rib rnd: (k1, p1) to end.
Rep rib rnd until rib edging measures 2 in / 5 cm. BO in rib.

Sleeves
Place the 55 (58, 65, 67, 70) sleeve sts from thread on larger and shorter circular needle. Begin at
centre of armhole. Pick up and knit 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) sts along the newly CO sts between back and front,
knit the sleeve sts, pick up and knit 5 (6, 5, 5, 6) sts along the rest of the newly CO sts between back
and front = 66 (70, 76, 78, 82) sts.
Join and place a marker around the 1st st of the rnd.
Work in St st in the round and work decrease rnd as explained:
Size XS and S: Work decrease rnd when sleeve measures 1, 2¼ and 3½ in / 3, 6 and 9 cm.
Size M, L and XL: Work decrease rnd when sleeve measures ¾, 1½, 2¼ and 3 in / 2, 4, 6 and 8 cm.
Decrease rnd: K1, k2tog, knit until 2 sts remain, SSK.

All sizes: = 60 (64, 68, 70, 74) sts.

Continue in St st until sleeve measures 4 in / 10 cm. Change to smaller dpns.
Rib rnd: (k1, p1) to end.
Repeat rib rnd until rib edging measures ¾ in / 2 cm rib. BO in rib.
Work the second sleeve in the same way.

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Decreasing symmetrically

The drawings under illustrate what I think, is a very fine method for decreasing in a
symmetrical way, called “s2k1p2sso” in the patterns. It takes three stitches to make the
decrease, and when it has been worked, the outer stitch at both sides has been removed
leaving only the centre stitch on the needle. The decreased stitches do not hide the
remaining centre stitch – resulting in a symmetrical decrease with the centre stitch in front.

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