Fantasia Blouse

The Fantasia Blouse
Lauren Wash
LaurenWKnits Double U Knits @imalwaysknitting

ABOUT THIS PATTERN
CONSTRUCTION
The Fantasia Blouse is worked bottom-up. The body is worked in the round, while the yoke is
worked flat in two pieces (front and back) after binding off stitches for each armhole. The
armholes are shaped with decreases and German Short Rows shape the square neckline. After
seaming with Three Needle Bind-Off, stitches are picked up around the armhole and the sleeve
cap is shaped with short rows. Two sleeve options are available: puffy or fitted.
GAUGE
25 sts x 34 rows = 4" on US4 needles
As this pattern is designed to have 3" negative ease, matching gauge is very important to getting
accurate measurements and a garment that fits. Change needle size if necessary.
SIZING
Choose the size that matches your bust measurement in inches.
31" (34") 37" (40") 43" (46") 49" (52") 55" (58") 61"
MATERIALS
-24" US3 (3.25mm) circular needle
-24" US4 (3.5mm) circular needle
-US3 Double Pointed Needles (or magic loop)
-US4 Double Pointed Needles (or magic loop)
-stitch markers
-yarn needle
MEASUREMENTS
Length from bottom edge to shoulder: 16" (16.25") 16.5" (17") 17.25" (17.5") 18" (18.25") 18.5"
(19") 19.25"
Waist Circ: 24" (27") 30" (33") 36" (39") 42" (45") 48" (51") 54"
Bust Circumference: 28" (31") 34" (37") 40" (43") 46" (49") 52" (55") 58"
Armhole Depth: 6.5" (7") 7.25" (8") 8.25" (8.5") 8.5" (9") 9" (9") 9.5"
Neckline Width: 8.5" (8.75") 8.75" (9") 9" (9.25") 9.25" (10") 10" (10.25") 10.5"
YARN
Approx. 510 (550) 550 (600) 650 (700) 750 (800) 850 (900) 1000 yards of fingering weight yarn.
Sample shown in "Schachenmayr Merino Yak 4-Ply"
1
RIBBING
Cast on 152 (172) 188 (208) 228 (244) 264 (284) 300 (320) 340 stitches on 24” US3 (3.25mm)
circular needles. Join to work in the round. Place a unique stitch marker.
Row 1-9: K2, P2. repeat to the end of the round.

Row 10: Knit all stitches.
BODY
On the following round, knit the stitches from the US3 needle onto the US4(3.5mm) needle.
This counts as row 1.
Place a stitch marker halfway across the round: 76 (86) 94 (104) 114 (122) 132 (142) 150 (160)
170 stitches away from the BOR.
Instructions for Increase Rounds:

Increases are made at each side of the body (2 increases per marker, 4 increases per round) using
M1R and M1L:
Knit 1, M1L, knit to one stitch before marker, M1R, K1, sm, K1, M1L, knit to one stitch before
marker, M1R, K1.
Work in stockinette stitch, working an increase round every 10 (10) 10 (11) 11 (11) 11 (12) 12
(12) 12 rows, until a total of 6 increase rounds are worked.
There is now a total of 176 (196) 212 (232) 252 (268) 288 (308) 324 (344) 364 stitches on the
needle.
Now, work without increases until the work measures approximately 8.3" (8.4") 8.6" (8.9") 9"
(9.2") 9.4" (9.6") 9.7" (10") 10.2" from the cast on edge.
Keep in mind that your work will grow when blocked, so you might be shy of these numbers by
as much as a half an inch.
On the last round, only knit to 4 stitches before BOR marker.
BIND OFF ROUND

Starting from 4 stitches before BOR marker, bind off 8 stitches (half of the stitches before
marker, half the stitches after marker), removing marker when you come to it.
Knit to 4 stitches before next marker, bind off 8 stitches (half of the stitches before marker, half
the stitches after marker), removing marker when you come to it.
Knit to the end and turn when you get to the first set of bound off stitches near the BOR.
You are ready to start working on the back from the WS while the stitches for the front are being
held by the cable.
There are 80 (90) 98 (108) 118 (126) 136 (146) 154 (164) 174 sts on each half of the body.
2
SHAPING THE BACK
Row 1 (WS): P2, SSP, purl to 4 stitches before end, P2togTBL, P2.
Row 2 (RS): K2, SSK, knit to 4 stitches before end, K2tog, K2.
You have decreased 6 stitches on each side of the back piece.

68 (78) 86 (96) 106 (114) 124 (134) 142 (152) 162 stitches remain on the needle.
Knit back and forth without decreases for 29 (33) 35 (41) 43 (45) 45 (51) 51 (51) 55 rows. The
next row is a RS row and will begin the neckline shaping.
SHAPING THE NECKLINE (BACK)

The neckline and shoulders are shaped with German Short Rows.
Remember that when working German Short Rows, you always work the GSR in the next stitch
on the needle. For example, if the pattern says “Knit to 4 stitches after marker, work a GSR” that
means to knit to 4 stitches after marker, knit one more stitch, turn, and work your German Short
Row in that “extra” stitch.
Row 1 (RS): Knit 12, PM, knit to 4 stitches after marker, work a GSR.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to end.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to 3 stitches after marker, work a GSR.
Row 7 (RS): Knit to 1 stitch after marker, work a GSR.
Row 9 (RS): Knit to marker, SM, work a GSR.
Stop here and place a marker 12 stitches from the end on the left side of the work. There are now
two markers, each 12 stitches from each side. The marker you just placed will be called Marker 2,
while the marker you placed in the first row will be called Marker 1.
Row 11 (RS): Knit all stitches to the end of the row, working the GSR “double stitches” as one
stitch.
3
SHAPING THE BACK (CONT.)
Row 12 (WS): Purl to 4 stitches after marker 2, work a GSR.
Row 13 (RS): Knit to end.
Row 18 (WS): Purl to 1 stitch after marker 2, work a GSR.
Row 20 (WS): Purl to marker 2, SM, work a GSR.
Row 22 (WS): Purl all stitches to the end of the row, working the GSR “double stitches” as one
stitch.
Row 23 (RS): Knit to marker 1, BO all stitches to marker 2, knit to the end.
BACK LEFT SHOULDER

Row 24 (WS): Purl across shoulder.
Row 25 (RS): Knit to 3 stitches before end, work a GSR.
Row 27 (RS): Knit to 3 stitches before last GSR, work a GSR.
Row 31 (RS): Knit across all stitches, knitting the GSR “double stitches” as one stitch.
Row 32 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Row 33 (RS): Knit across all stitches.
Row 34 (WS): Purl across all stitches.
Break yarn leaving about 16” of a tail. Put stitches on hold.
BACK RIGHT SHOULDER

Row 24 (WS): Purl to 3 stitches before end, work a GSR.
Row 26 (WS): Purl to 3 stitches before last GSR, work a GSR.
Row 30 (WS): Purl across all stitches, knitting the GSR “double stitches” as one stitch.
Row 31 (RS): Knit all stitches.
4
SHAPING THE FRONT

Start knitting the front piece from the WS.
You have decreased 6 stitches on each side of the front piece.

68 (78) 86 (96) 106 (114) 124 (134) 142 (152) 162 stitches remain on the needle.
Knit back and forth without decreases for 5 (5) 5 (7) 7 (7) 9 (9) 9 (11) 11 rows. The next row is a
RS row and will begin the neckline shaping.
Stop here and try on your garment. The current length of the front is where the neckline will
be. If you have a larger bust, you may choose to make the neckline higher to suit your body. To
add more rows, simply knit back and forth, ending with a WS (purl) row. Continue to the next
part of the pattern. If you add rows, you must subtract the same amount of rows from the
shoulder later on, so keep track of how many rows you add.
SHAPING THE NECKLINE (FRONT)

Row 1 (RS): Knit 12, PM, knit to 4 stitches after marker, work a GSR.
Row 7 (RS): Knit to 1 stitch after marker, work a GSR.
Row 9 (RS): Knit to marker, SM, work a GSR.
Stop here and place a marker 12 stitches from the end on the left side of the work. There are now
two markers, each 12 stitches from each side. The marker you just placed will be called Marker 2,
while the marker you placed in the first row will be called Marker 1. 5
Row 11 (RS): Knit all stitches to the end of the row, working the GSR “double stitches” as one
stitch.
Row 18 (WS): Purl to 1 stitch after marker 2, work a GSR.
Row 20 (WS): Purl to marker 2, SM, work a GSR.
Row 22 (WS): Purl all stitches to the end of the row, working the GSR “double stitches” as one
stitch.
Row 23 (RS): Knit to marker 1, BO all stitches to marker 2, knit to the end.
FRONT RIGHT STRAP

Knit 25 (29) 31 (37) 39 (41) 41 (47) 47 (47) 51 rows back and forth in stockinette stitch,
UNLESS you subtracted or added rows to the body. If you added rows to the body, SUBTRACT
the amount of rows you added from the rows stated above. For example, if you added 10 rows to
the body and you are working size 1, work 15 rows back and forth.
FRONT RIGHT SHOULDER

Row 1 (WS): Purl across shoulder.
Row 2 (RS): Knit to 3 stitches before end, work a GSR.
Row 8 (RS): Knit across all stitches, knitting the GSR “double stitches” as one stitch.
Row 10 (RS): Knit across all stitches.
Row 11 (WS): Purl across all stitches.
FRONT LEFT STRAP

Knit 25 (29) 31 (37) 39 (41) 41 (47) 47 (47) 51 rows back and forth in stockinette stitch.
UNLESS you subtracted or added rows to the body. If you added rows to the body, SUBTRACT
the amount of rows you added from the rows stated above. For example, if you added 10 rows to
the body and you are working size 1, work 15 rows back and forth.
6
FRONT LEFT SHOULDER
Start working the shoulder from the WS.
Row 1 (WS): Purl to 3 stitches before end, work a GSR.
Row 7 (WS): Purl across all stitches, knitting the GSR “double stitches” as one stitch.
SEAM SHOULDERS
The shoulders are seamed using the Three Needle Bind-Off. Use the following instructions to
seam the front piece to the back piece:
1. Arrange the two straps with their right sides together, wrong sides (purl side) facing out.
2. Hold the needles parallel and slip a third needle into the first stitch on each of the two needles.
3. Yarn over with either straps working yarn tail, it does not matter which you use.
4. Pull a loop through both stitches as if to knit two together.
5. Repeat 2-3 for the next set of stitches.
6. With one of the left needles, slip the first stitch on the right needle over the second stitch, like
you are binding off.
7. Repeat until all stitches are bound off.
Repeat these steps to seam the other shoulder.
Continue to sleeve instructions.
7
OPTION 1: PUFFY SLEEVES
Picking Up Stitches and Placing Markers:
Place a marker at the top center of the armhole (on the shoulder seam. This marker will be
called the Top Armhole Marker (TAM). Starting in the center underarm, place a marker. This
will be called the Underarm Marker (UM). Begin by picking up two stitches for every three
rows (pick up two, skip one, etc) until you get to 16 (16) 18 (18) 18 (20) 20 (20) 22 (22) 24
rows before the TAM. Place a marker (we will call this "Cap Marker 1"). Pick up EVERY stitch
(one stitch for every row) up to the marker. Continue picking up every stitch for 16 (16) 18
(18) 18 (20) 20 (20) 22 (22) 24 more rows. Place a marker (we will call this "Cap Marker 2").
You should now have 32 (32) 36 (36) 36 (40) 40 (40) 44 (44) 48 stitches close together with
no gaps in between. Return to previous method of picking up stitches (2 stitches for every 3
rows) until you reach the beginning of the round. Place two more markers (will be referenced
as "Ending Markers") 8 stitches away from the BOR on either side.
KNITTING THE SLEEVE CAP

The sleeve cap is shaped using German Short Rows. Please watch the video linked in my
"Helpful Links" section, as the wording may be confusing if you are unfamiliar with this
technique.
GERMAN SHORT ROWS:

Row 1 (RS): Knit to Cap Marker 2. Slip marker. Work a GSR.
Row 2 (WS): In between Cap Marker 1 and Cap Marker 2, increase 8 stitches evenly using the
PFB method. When you get to Cap Marker 1, slip marker, work a GSR.
Row 3 (RS): Work back to Cap Marker 2. Knit the GSR double stitch. Work a GSR in the next
stitch.
Row 4 (WS): Work back to Cap Marker 1. Purl the GSR double stitch. Work a GSR in the next
stitch,.
You are working back and forth, lengthening each row with every GSR. Repeat rows 3 and 4
until you reach the Ending Markers on either side.
The last time you work a GSR will be from the WS. After you turn, knit all the way to the BOR
(where you started picking up stitches at the center underarm), knitting the GSR double stitch
as one when you come to it.
COMPLETE THE SLEEVE:

The beginning of the round is located at the center underarm.
Now begin knitting in the round, and knit a total of 5 (5) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 (7) 8 (8) 8 rounds. Knit
the last GSR double stitches as you come to them.
Over the next few rounds, decrease evenly until there are 60 (64) 68 (72) 72 (76) 76 (80) 80
(80) 84 stitches left.
7
Change to US3 (3.25mm) needles.
Next 9 rounds: *K2, P2* repeat to end of round.
Round 10: Bind off in stretchy bind off.
Repeat all instructions for the other sleeve. Take care to pick up the same amount of stitches.
OPTION 2: FITTED SLEEVES

Picking Up Stitches and Placing Markers:
Starting at the center underarm, pick up 78 (86) 90 (96) 98 (102) 102 (110) 110 (110) 114
stitches, picking up two stitches for every three rows (pick up two, skip one, etc). Place a marker
at the beginning of the round. This marker will be called the Underarm Marker (UM).
Place a unique marker halfway across the round. This should be directly below the shoulder
seam if stitches were picked up evenly. This marker will be called the Top Armhole Marker
(TAM)
Place two markers 13 (14) 15 (16) 16 (17) 17 (18) 18 (18) 19 stitches away from the TAM on
either side. A total of 26 (28) 30 (32) 32 (34) 34 (36) 36 (36) 38 stitches are in between these
two markers, with the TAM in the middle. The marker on the right of the TAM will be called Cap
Marker 2 (CM2), and the marker on the left of the TAM will be called Cap Marker 1 (CM1).
Place two more markers 18 (21) 22 (24) 25 (26) 26 (29) 29 (29) 30 stitches away from both
CM1 and CM2, in the direction towards the UM. These will be called the Ending Markers (EM).
There are now 6 markers. Starting from the center underarm and working clockwise, they are
distributed as follows: UM, EM, CM1, TAM, CM2, EM.
SLEEVE CAP
Row 1 (RS): Knit to CM2. Slip marker. Work a GSR.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to CM1. Slip marker. Work a GSR.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to CM2. Knit the GSR double stitch. Work a GSR in the next stitch.
Row 4 (WS): Purl to CM1. Purl the GSR double stitch. Work a GSR in the next stitch.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you reach the EM on either side while at the same time decreasing
two stitches on each side of the TAM every other RS row (every 4th row) as follows:
Work in pattern to two stitches before TAM. K2tog, sm, SSK. Continue working in pattern to end
of row.
Work the decrease pattern while working the sleeve cap GSRs until 60 (64) 68 (72) 72 (76) 76
(80) 80 (80) 84 stitches remain.
The last time you work a GSR will be from the WS. After you turn, knit all the way to the BOR
(where you started picking up stitches at the center underarm), knitting the GSR double stitch
as one when you come to it.
8
If necessary, continue working in the round, decreasing every 4th round, until all decreases are
made and 60 (64) 68 (72) 72 (76) 76 (80) 80 (80) 84 stitches remain.
Switch to US3 needles.

Rounds 1-9: *K2, P2* repeat to end of round.
Round 10: BO with stretchy bind off.
I-CORD BIND OFF

With the US4 32-36" circular needle, pick up stitches along the neckline edge. For vertical stitch
spaces like the front and back of the neckline, pick up every stitch. For horizontal stitch spaces like
the edge of the shoulders, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows (pick up 3, skip one). Starting at
center back of the neckline, work across the back of the neck, down the right side of the neckline,
across the front bound-off stitches, up the left side, and back around to the back of the neck where
you started.
I-CORD BIND-OFF:
Cable cast on three stitches to the left needle. *K2, K2togTBL, slip the three stitches back to the
left needle*
Repeat from * to * until there are three stitches remaining.
Using the I-Cord grafting method, graft the I-cord edges.

Knot and weave the ends.
FINISHING
Weave in your ends, wash, and block if desired.
Pattern written and designed by Lauren Wash.

Pieces made with this pattern may be sold with permission from designer.
Post your Fantasia Blouse on Instagram with the hashtag #TheFantasiaBlouse
9
HELPFUL LINKS
CASTING ON AND PICKING UP STITCHES
Casting on with Long-Tail Cast on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-gdAUEjQjU
Cable Cast On
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDgNpDYkxUk
How to Pick Up Stitches

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0iS93ZcopU
RIBBING
K1P1 Ribbing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04yQXiQGsLs
K2P2 Ribbing
https://youtu.be/ov2O-Hi1UTc
DECREASES
SSK and K2TOG
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSTQjOCyfhI
P2togTBL
https://youtu.be/fIeDjhWp-1c
SSP
https://youtu.be/i4_cnXAPoLs
INCREASES
PFB & PFBF
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0s1MphXmNbI
How to M1R and M1L

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsJndA4LzR8
I-CORD
I-Cord Bind-Off and Grafting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qo2hLugfXvg
Five Stitch I-Cord on Double Pointed Needles

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfkFRa9tjns HELPFUL LINKS
SEAMING
Seaming Stitches to Rows
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMbKET673VQ
Three-Needle Bind-Off
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph93jWSzTa0&t=3s
Mattress Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObuZwHlmDCI
GAUGE SWATCHING AND NEEDLE SIZES

How to change needle sizes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lYAAodocGE
How to Gauge Swatch

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnsMzcWXCsE
Checking Gauge
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Omek0d4xWJs
BINDING OFF
Bind-off in ribbing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2P-U4vXbuDA
Tubular Bind-off in the round

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jPMLIE7ac8&t=245s
Stretchy Bind-off
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbzeEg6XMwM
Simple Bind-off
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSwjIUiQZlM
SHORT ROWS
German Short Rows
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_JzQURew5U
Wrap and Turn Short Rows

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3BrIMIdO-c
HELPFUL LINKS

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The Fantasia Blouse

LaurenWKnits Double U Knits @imalwaysknitting

Row 1-9: K2, P2. repeat to the end of the round.

Instructions for Increase Rounds:

BIND OFF ROUND

You have decreased 6 stitches on each side of the back piece.

SHAPING THE NECKLINE (BACK)

BACK LEFT SHOULDER

BACK RIGHT SHOULDER

SHAPING THE FRONT

You have decreased 6 stitches on each side of the front piece.

SHAPING THE NECKLINE (FRONT)

FRONT RIGHT STRAP

FRONT RIGHT SHOULDER

FRONT LEFT STRAP

Repeat these steps to seam the other shoulder.

Continue to sleeve instructions.

KNITTING THE SLEEVE CAP

GERMAN SHORT ROWS:

COMPLETE THE SLEEVE:

OPTION 2: FITTED SLEEVES

Switch to US3 needles.

I-CORD BIND OFF

Repeat from * to * until there are three stitches remaining.

Using the I-Cord grafting method, graft the I-cord edges.

Pattern written and designed by Lauren Wash.

How to Pick Up Stitches

How to M1R and M1L

Five Stitch I-Cord on Double Pointed Needles

GAUGE SWATCHING AND NEEDLE SIZES

How to Gauge Swatch

Tubular Bind-off in the round

Wrap and Turn Short Rows

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