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Livingstone vest
An adjustable, high neck, brioche stitch vest for
stylish layering.

yarn: Aran weight yarn, approximately 544 (592;

650; 702; 739) [798; 855; 931; 993] metres / 595
(647; 711; 768; 808) [873; 935; 1018; 1086] yards.
Sample shown in West Yorkshire Spinners 100%
Bluefaced Leicester Roving in shade 002 Light
Brown.

needles & notions:

5mm needles: circular needles of your preferred

length for working small circumferences for the
yoke (ie. 16” / 40cm, or 1 long needle for magic
loop), plus needles of your preferred method for
working flat for the body (ie. 24” circulars, or
straight needles).

4mm needles (of any type) for working waist tie

Scrap yarn for holding stitches

4 stitch markers (with one marker different to the

rest to denote the beginning of round)

Tapestry needle

2 x 38mm D-rings (inner diameter)

gauge: 14 sts and 40 rows to 4” / 10 cm in brioche stitch on 5mm needles, blocked. See notes for
swatching brioche stitch.

NOTES

This pattern uses brioche stitch worked flat and in the round, brioche increases, (optional) Italian cast on,
simple short rows, i-cord bind off, and a small amount of Kitchener stitch.

Construction: the Livingstone Vest is worked seamlessly from the top down, in all-over brioche stitch. It
begins with the neckband and yoke, which are worked in the round, before dividing to form the front and
back. Increases are worked on the back to form ‘wings’ that wrap around to the front. These ‘wings’ are
attached with either D rings or waist ties.

Swatching: Cast on an even number of stitches for your swatch (I would recommend around 18 stitches
for this gauge), then work the setup row and basic brioche as follows, using the abbreviations on page 2:

• Setup row: [sl1yo, k1] to end.

• Basic brioche row: [sl1yo, BRK] to end. Repeat this row until your swatch is a suitable size.

A tutorial for basic brioche stitch worked flat can be found here. It is vital to block your swatch.

Brioche stitch counts: This entire vest is worked in brioche stitch, which works slightly differently to
conventional knitting. On all rows, every alternate stitch is ‘shawled’ by wrapping the yarn over, and on
the following row this ‘shawl’ is worked together with the stitch. For this reason, the yarn overs do not
count as separate stitches; they are simply ‘paired’ with a stitch. Therefore when counting stitches, do not
include the yarn overs in the total, as each brioche stitch/yarn over pair counts as one.

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Brioche row counts: Every 2 rows of brioche stitch will produce one visible row of ‘V’s. For example when
counting rows in your swatch, 20 brioche ‘V’s represent 40 rows.

Blocking: Brioche stitch grows considerably when blocked, and the combination of a wool based yarn
and brioche stitch make for a fabric that opens up significantly. It would be great to see this vest knitted
in different yarns and fibres, however the nature of brioche stitch means it is especially important to block
your swatch as yarn choices can have a massive effect on how much or little the fabric grows. For this
reason, take care when trying the garment on to check fit.

Sizing: 1 (2: 3: 4: 5) [6: 7: 8: 9] detailed below. Sample shown is a size 2 on a 34 inch / 86 cm bust.

For sizes 1-4, the side ‘wings’ meet in the centre as shown in photos. For sizes 5-9, the side ‘wings’ do not
meet, as it is not possible to include enough shaping without distorting the fabric or making the vest much
longer. The schematics show front, back, and folded views of the size 2 and size 9, drawn proportionately,
to illustrate the slight difference in styles. Grey shaded areas indicate the inside of the vest.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

To fit bust (“) 28-30 32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 52-54 56-58 60-62

To fit bust (cm) 71-76 81-86 91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127 132-137 142-147 152-157

Width across front / 13” 13.5” 14.5” 15” 16” 16.5” 17” 18.5” 19”
upper back (A) 33 cm 35 cm 36 cm 38 cm 41 cm 42 cm 44 cm 46 cm 48 cm

22” 22.5” 22.5” 22.5” 22.5” 22.5” 23” 23” 23”

Total length (B)
56 cm 57 cm 57 cm 57 cm 57 cm 57 cm 58 cm 58 cm 58 cm

Waist width including 25.5” 28.5” 32.5” 36.5” 36.5” 39.5” 42.5” 45.5” 48.5”
wings (C) 65 cm 73 cm 83 cm 93 cm 93 cm 100 cm 107 cm 116 cm 123 cm

Centre back neck to 16.5” 17” 17” 17” 17” 17.5” 17.5” 17.5” 18”
waist length (D) 41 cm 43 cm 43 cm 43 cm 43 cm 44 cm 44 cm 44 cm 45 cm

2” 3” 4” 5” 6”
Opening at front (E) 0 0 0 0
5 cm 8 cm 10 cm 13 cm 15 cm

Abbreviations and techniques

RS = right side WS = wrong side BRK = knit the next stitch together with its paired
yarn over
PM = place marker SM = slip marker
BRP = purl the next stitch together with its paired
k = knit p = purl
yarn over
M = marker
INC (brkYObrk) = brioche 2 stitch increase: BRK
k2tog = knit two stitches together leaving st on left needle tip, yarn over, then BRK
into the same stitch again and slip off left needle
s1 = slip one stitch (purlwise unless specified tip. Referred to as just ‘INC’ in pattern for brevity.
otherwise) Each increase adds 2 sts to your total stitch count.
sl1yo = slip one purlwise, yarn over Video tutorial links:
s1wyif = slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in front Basic brioche stitch flat / Italian cast on / Brioche
k2togtbl = knit two together through back loop stitch in the round / Brioche stitch increases /
attaching D-rings

© Copyright 2020 Lily Kate France. Personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale | #LivingstoneVest
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© Copyright 2020 Lily Kate France. Personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale | #LivingstoneVest
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BEGIN NECKBAND

Using either the Italian cast on (tutorial here) or the Long Tail method, cast on 52 (56; 60; 64; 64) [68; 72;
80; 84] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round.

Note: if using the Long Tail method, be sure to cast on very loosely or the neckband will not stretch enough.
Round 1 is worked slightly differently depending on the cast on method you choose.

round 1 / setup round following the Italian cast on: [yo, s1 as if to purl through the back loop, k1] to
end.

round 1 / setup round following the Long Tail cast on: [yo, s1 purlwise, k1] to end.

You will now begin to work basic brioche in the round (tutorial link) for the neckband.

round 2 (basic brioche purl): [BRP, sl1yo] to end.

round 3 (basic brioche knit): [sl1yo, BRK] to end.

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 a further 8 times, for a total of 18 rounds in basic brioche. If you would like a longer
neck, work additional repeats of rounds 2 and 3.

You will now place markers to denote the position of the yoke shaping. See Notes for information on
brioche stitch counts. Brioche Increases tutorial link

Next round (marker placing round): *[BRP, sl1yo] x 2, PM, [BRP, sl1yo] x 11 (12; 13; 14; 14) [15; 16; 18;
19], PM, repeat from * once more.

# Increase round: *[sl1yo, BRK] x2, SM, sl1yo, INC, [sl1yo, BRK] to 2 from M, sl1yo, INC, SM, repeat from
* once more. 60 (64; 68; 72; 72) [76; 80; 88; 92] sts.

Next round: *[BRP, sl1yo] x2, SM, BRP, sl1yo, p1, sl1yo, [BRP, sl1yo] to 2 sts from M, p1, sl1yo, SM, repeat
from * to end.

Work 1 round in basic brioche knit then 1 round in basic brioche purl. ##

Repeat from # to ## a further 5 (5; 5; 5; 6) [6; 6; 6; 6] times, for a total of 6 (6; 6; 6; 7) [7; 7; 7; 7] increase
rounds. 100 (104; 108; 112; 120) [124; 128; 136; 140] sts.

From this point on it isn’t as clear which is the right and wrong side, so I would recommend attaching a
removable stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn to the RS purely for identification purposes. The entire yoke
is worked with the RS facing, so this will be the ‘outside’ of your work.

You will now divide to work the back and front separately, by binding off the shoulder stitches. These are
bound off using a variation of a regular rib bind off, which must be done loosely to ensure the shoulders
don’t pucker.

Dividing round: *bind off 4 sts as follows: p1, BRK, pass stitch over, p1, pass stitch over, BRK, pass stitch
over, remove M, sl1yo, pass another stitch over to complete bind off. BRK, [sl1yo, BRK] to next M, remove
M, repeat from * once more.

You will now work back and forth in rows across only the 46 (48; 50; 52; 56) [58; 60; 64; 66] sts just worked.
These are the back sts. Place the remaining 46 (48; 50; 52; 56) [58; 60; 64; 66] sts on waste yarn for the
front.

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UPPER BACK

Basic brioche knit row (WS): [sl1yo, BRK] to end.

Repeat basic brioche knit row until back measures 10 (9.5; 8; 6.5; 7) [6.5; 6; 5; 4.5] inches / 25 (24; 20; 17;
18) [17; 15; 13; 11] cm from cast on edge, measured at centre back neck. End with a WS row.

Note: the side shaping has been based on a standard sizing chart, with underarm to waist length as
follows: 8.25 (8.25; 8.25; 8; 7.75) [7.75; 7.75; 7.75; 7.75] inches / 21 (21; 21; 20.5; 20) [20; 20; 20; 20] cm.
If your underarm to waist length is shorter or longer than this, shorten or lengthen the upper back
accordingly. Take note of how much length you add or subtract, as the same adjustment will be necessary
on the front.

Similarly, if you would like a smaller or larger waist circumference than given in the sizing table, work the
wing shaping instructions for a size up or down. Choose the length for the upper back accordingly; for
example if you are knitting a size 4 but would like the waist of a size 5, work only 6.5 inches / 17 cm in this
upper back section. Otherwise the waistline will sit too low.

WING’ SHAPING

You will now begin to work increases to shape the sides. To create the curved shape, a different number
of rows is worked between each increase, and the pattern is different for each size. Details for how to
work Increase rows (and the row following an increase) are below the table. Working ‘straight rows’ means
work in basic brioche knit as set. See Notes regarding brioche row counts.

Follow the table from top to bottom for your size. For example, a size 2 will work:

Inc row, Following row, then 8 straight rows once,

then an Inc row, Following row, then 6 straight rows once,

then an Inc row, Following row, then 4 straight rows twice,

then an Inc row, Following row, then 2 straight rows 8 times,

then an Inc row once more.

Size
Increase sequence (from top to bottom) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Inc row, then Following row, then 8 straight rows x1 x1 x1 x1 x1 x1 x1 x1 x1
Inc row, then Following row, then 6 straight rows x1 x1 x1 x2 x2 x2 x2 x2 x2
Inc row, then Following row, then 4 straight rows x2 x2 x3 x4 x4 x4 x4 x5 x5
Inc row, then Following row, then 2 straight rows x6 x8 x10 x11 x10 x12 x14 x15 x17
Inc row only x1 x1 x1 x1 x1 x1 x1 x1 x1

Inc row: sl1yo, BRK, sl1yo, INC, [sl1yo, BRK] to last 3 sts (remember this is a knit stitch with its paired
YO, then a purl stitch, then another knit stitch with its paired YO), INC, sl1yo, BRK.

Following row: sl1yo, BRK, sl1yo, k1, [sl1yo, BRK] to last 6 sts (this will be a knit stitch with its paired
YO, purl, knit stitch with its paired YO, purl, knit, purl), sl1yo, k1, [sl1yo, BRK] x2.

After completing the table you should have 90 (100; 114; 128; 128) [138; 148; 160; 170] sts.

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You will now work short rows to mitre the corners. There is no need for wrap and turns, German short rows,
or any method when working short rows in brioche stitch.

Next row (WS): sl1yo, BRK, sl1yo, k1, turn.

[sl1yo, BRK] twice, turn.

[s1yo, BRK] to last 6 sts, sl1yo, k1, [sl1yo, BRK] x2.

Next row (RS): [sl1yo, BRK] twice, turn.

[sl1yo, BRK] twice, turn.

[s1yo, BRK] to end.

Work straight in basic brioche knit for 8 rows.

Next row (WS): [sl1yo, BRK] to last 18 (22; 24; 28; 22) [22; 24; 26; 28] sts, [p1, BRK] to last 2 sts, sl1yo,
BRK.

You will now bind off the side stitches to work the lower back. Again, you will mitre the corners with short
rows. Work the i-cord bind off loosely.

Mitre 1st corner: sl1yo, BRK, turn.

sl1yo, BRK, turn.

Cast off 1st side (RS): [k2, k2togtbl, slip 3 sts back to left needle] x 15 (19; 21; 25; 19) [19; 21; 23; 25], k2,
k2togtbl, [sl1yo, BRK] to last 18 (22; 24; 28; 22) [22; 24; 26; 28] sts, [p1, BRK] to last 2 sts, sl1yo, BRK. 75
(81; 93; 103; 109) [119; 127; 137; 145] sts.

Note: on both cast off rows the first 3 loops on the needle should be treated as separate stitches, not as
paired YOs.

Mitre 2nd corner: sl1yo, BRK, turn.

sl1yo, BRK, turn

Cast off 2nd side (WS): [k2, k2togtbl, slip 3 sts back to left needle] x15 (19; 21; 25; 19) [19; 21; 23; 25], k2,
k2togtbl, [sl1yo, BRK] to last 3 sts (these have not yet been turned into brioche stitches, so count 3 actual
loops on the needle), sl1yo, k2tog. 59 (61; 71; 77; 89) [99; 105; 113; 119] sts.

Next row (RS): [sl1yo, BRK] to last 3 sts (these have not yet been turned into brioche stitches, so count 3
actual loops on the needle), sl1yo, k2tog. 58 (60; 70; 76; 88) [98; 104; 112; 118] sts.

LOWER BACK

Continue to work straight in basic brioche knit until work measures 22 (22.5; 22.5; 22.5; 22.5) [22.5; 23;
23; 23] inches / 56 (57; 57; 57; 57) [57; 58; 58; 58] cm from cast on edge, ending with a RS row. This
should be approximately 56 (56; 56; 54; 52) [52; 52; 52; 52] further rows.

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HEM EDGING

Next row (WS): [p1, BRK] to last 2 sts, sl1yo, BRK.

Mitre corner: sl1yo, BRK, turn.

sl1yo, BRK, turn

Bind off: sl1wyif, k1 (this is knitting the paired YO as if it was a normal stitch), k2togtbl, slip 3 sts back to
left needle. *k2, k2togtbl, slip 3 sts back to left needle, repeat from * until there are 4 sts on left needle tip
(7 sts total between needles), k2, k2togtbl.

There should now be 3 sts on each needle tip. Break yarn leaving a 12” / 30cm tail. Rotate right needle
tip 180 degrees anticlockwise so both needle tips lie parallel. Kitchener stitch 3 sts from both needle tips
together.

FRONT

Replace 46 (48; 50; 52; 56) [58; 60; 64; 66] held front sts on needle with WS facing.

Basic brioche knit row: [sl1yo, BRK] to end.

Repeat basic brioche knit row until front measures 21 (21.5; 21.5; 21.5; 21.5) [21.5; 22; 22; 22] inches / 53
(55; 55; 54; 54) [55; 55; 55; 56] cm from cast on edge, ending with a RS row. If you added / subtracted
length on the back, make the same length adjustment to the front.

It is important to try on the vest at this point, as how the length ‘sits’ will depend on your shape. For a
small bust, the front and back should be similar in length, with the back 1 inch or so longer to give a
balanced look to the hemline. For a larger bust, the front may ride up, and therefore need to be longer
to accommodate this.

Work hem edging as for back.

WAIST TIE (if using D-rings, make 1. If using overstitch and the yarn already attached to waist
waist ties, make 2) tie. Repeat on other side if using 2 ties.

With 4mm needle and any method, cast on 10 sts.
Row 1: [k1, p1] to end. Repeat row 1 until tie
measures 10 (10; 10; 10; 12) [13; 14; 15; 16]
inches / 25 (25; 25; 25; 30) [33; 36; 38; 41] cm.
Bind off all sts in rib.
Sew 2 D-rings to right wing again using
overstitches. Sew one ring in the purl ‘gutter’
between the two edge-most brioche stitches,
and the other to the wrong side of the fabric at
the very edge. Use plenty of stitches to ensure
rings are attached securely.

See attaching ties and D-rings video for a clearer

FINISHING explanation.

Weave in all ends and block, taking care not to

allow fabric to stretch too much. I would
recommend blocking before attaching waist happy knitting!
tie(s) and/or D-rings.
for any enquiries contact lilykate@jolihouse.com
Sew cast on edge of waist tie to left ‘wing’ (as
#LivingstoneVest
worn) with right sides facing. Use a simple

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© Copyright 2020 Lily Kate France. Personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale | #LivingstoneVest