Diamond Structure Sweater

About the pattern

Diamond Structure Sweater is a sweater made in different structural patterns such as
a double seed stitch, a diamond pattern and mock cables. It is made from the top
down. Sleeves and the neckline are added at the end.

Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL)

Measurements: Circumference: about 90 (98) 106 (113) 120 (129) 134 (141) cm
Length: about 50 (55) 57 (58) 60 (61) 62 (62) cm
Gauge: 17 stitches x 24 rows in a diamond pattern on 5 mm needles = 10
x 10 cm
Needles: 5 mm circular needle (80 + 40 cm) and 3 mm (40 + 80 cm)
Difficulty: ★★★ 3 - which corresponds to almost easy
Before you begin
Progress slowly and systematically. Start out by reading the entire pattern. All steps in
the pattern are briefly explained initially then an in depth explanation of the
techniques and the structures can be found in the explanation boxes. These boxes
may contain tips and explanations of terms and techniques that might be difficult to
understand if you are new to the world of knitting. Here, there will also be links for
video guides.

Sizes
This sweater can be made in 8 different sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL)
The sizes correspond to the bust measurements: 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100 -110
(110-120) 120-130 (130-140) cm.

The sweater should have a positive ease of about 10 cm. Which means that the bust
circumference should be 10 cm larger than your bust measurement.

The bust circumference of the sweater is about 90 (98) 106 (113) 120 (129) 134 (141)
cm.
The length of the sweater when measured on the back excluding the neckline is
about 50 (55) 57 (58) 60 (61) 62 (62) cm.

Yarn alternatives
Yarn alternative 1: 1 strand of Drops Lima (50g=100m). Buy/view the yarn here.
Depending on the size you will need: 9 (10) 11 (11) 12 (13) 14 (15) balls. Optionally
held together with a strand of Drops Kid Silk (25g=210m). Buy/view the yarn here. You
will need: 5 (5) 6 (6) 7 (7) 7 (8) balls.

Yarn alternative 2: 1 strand of Drops Nepal (50g=75m). Buy/view the yarn here. You
will need 12 (14) 15 (15) 17 (18) 19 (21) balls.

Yarn alternative 3: 2 strands of Mayflower Easy Care (50g=185m). Buy/view the yarn
here. You will need 10 (11) 12 (12) 13 (15) 16 (17) balls. Optionally held together with
a strand of Mayflower Super Kid Silk (25g=195m). Buy/view the yarn here. You will
need 5 (6) 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 (8) balls.

Yarn alternative 4: 1 strand of Sandnes Double Sunday (50g=108m). You will need 9
(10) 11 (11) 12 (13) 13 (14) balls. HELD TOGETHER with 1 strand of Sandnes Tynn Silk
Mohair (25g=212m). You will need 5 (5) 6 (6) 7 (7) 7 (8) balls.

Materials
• 5 mm circular needle (40 cm + 80 cm) and 3 mm circular needle (40 cm + 80
cm)
• Darning needle
• Measuring tape

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 • Stitch markers (16 pcs.). You could for example purchase these low
budget markers or these beautiful pearl markers

Pattern
When you have made a swatch and hit the right gauge, you are ready to begin!

Gauge swatch in the diamond structure - (watch this video)

NOTE! As the diamond structure is a bit stretchy, you must block your gauge
swatch after washing it.

Step 1 - Cast on stitches for the back piece

Cast on 79 (85) 89 (95) 99 (105) 107 (113) stitches with a long tail cast on, on a 5 mm
circular needle (80 cm).

Casting on stitches - (watch this video)

Cast on the stitches with a regular long tail cast on.

Step 2 - Make the back piece

Start out by making a row from the back side to establish the structures. Whilst
working this row, you must place 8 stitch markers as follows:
• Work 8 (11) 10 (10) 9 (12) 13 (13) stitches in a double seed stitch (start out by
purling a stitch) - place a stitch marker - purl two stitches - place a stitch
marker - knit two stitches, purl three stitches, knit two stitches, purl three
stitches, knit two stitches - place a stitch marker - purl two stitches - place a
stitch marker - purl 31 (31) 37 (43) 49 (49) 49 (55) stitches - place a stitch marker
- purl two stitches - place a stitch marker - knit two stitches, purl three stitches,
knit two stitches, purl three stitches, knit two stitches - place a stitch marker -
purl two stitches - place a stitch marker - work 8 (11) 10 (10) 9 (12) 13 (13)
stitches in a double seed stitch (for the sizes (S) and XL, 3XL and (4XL): start out
by purling a stitch, for the remaining sizes: start out by knitting a stitch).

You have now separated your stitches for the different stitch structures you will be
making. Now, you will be working back and forth in the different structures. The first
row is round/row 1 in the cable structure and round 1 in the diamond structure (view
the explanation box beneath this section for more information about the structures).

Work the first 8 (11) 10 (10) 9 (12) 13 (13) stitches in a double seed stitch. Work the
next two stitches in a stockinette stitch. Work the next 12 stitches as follows: Purl the
first two stitches from the front side and knit them from the backside, three cable
stitches, then work another two stitches that are purled from the front side and
knitted from the back side, three cable stitches, and again two stitches that are
purled from the front side and knitted from the back side. Work the next two stitches
in a stockinette stitch. Work the next 31 (31) 37 (43) 49 (49) 49 (55) stitches by
following the diamond structure (the extra stitch is necessary to make the structure
symmetrical on both sides. View the explanation box for more information). Followed
by two stitches in a stockinette stitch again. Work the next 12 stitches as follows
again: Purl the first two stitches from the front side and knit them from the backside,
three cable stitches, then work another two stitches that are purled from the front

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side and knitted from the back side, three cable stitches, and again two
stitches that are purled from the front side and knitted from the back side. Work the
next two stitches in a stockinette stitch. Work the final 8 (11) 10 (10) 9 (12) 13 (13)
stitches in a double seed stitch.

Continue to work back and forth in the structure patterns until the back piece
measures about 18 (20) 20 (20) 21 (22) 22 (23) cm. Measure the stockinette piece
next to the cables. The final row must be made from the back side and it must be row
2 in the cable structure.

Make backwards loop cast ons on both sides of the back piece as follows:
• Front side: Cast on a stitch with a backwards loop cast on - work all stitches as
they appear - cast on a stitch with a backwards loop cast on.
• Back side: Work all stitches as they appear (NOTE! Work the new stitches so
they fit in the double seed stitch).

Repeat the two rows above 1 (1) 2 (2) 3 (4) 5 (5) times.
Now, you have 77 (83) 89 (95) 101 (109) 113 (119) stitches on your back piece. The
final row must be made from the back side. Put all stitches on hold and cut the yarn.
NOTE! For some of the sizes you will have less/the same amount of stitches here as
you had when you cast on, in spite of making increases/backwards loop cast ons.
This is due to the first four decreases made at the cables on row 1. Additionally,
remember that the cable stitches must always be counted as two stitches (thereby
you do not count the “yarn over” made on row 2).

Double seed stitch - (watch this video)

A double seed stitch is made by working two rows where you work in a single rib
stitch. Then, you work another two rows in a single rib stitch however you stagger
these rows. Then, this is repeated. View below for a more in depth guide.
Row 1 (front side): Stagger the pattern and work in a rib stitch.
Row 2 (back side): Work in a rib stitch as the stitches appear.

Mock cables back and forth - (watch this video)

Mock cables are worked on a multiple of two stitches and four rows as follows:
• Row 1 (front side): Loosely slip a stitch, knit two stitches, lift the first stitch over
the two knitted stitches.
• Row 2 (back side): Purl a stitch, yarn over, purl a stitch.
• Row 3 (front side): Knit three stitches.
• Row 4 (back side): Strik purl three stitches.
NOTE! when counting the cable stitches, you must always count them as 2 stitches
even though there are sometimes 3 stitches (i.e. you do not count the yarn over
that is made on the 2nd row).

Diamond structure back and forth - (watch this video)

The diamond structure is made on a multiple of six stitches and six rounds. The
boxes in the diagram that are marked with an X, are stitches that must be purled
from the front side and knitted from the back side. The empty boxes are stitches
that must be knitted on the front side and purled on the back side.
NOTE! Every row from the back side starts with an “extra stitch” and every row from
the front side is finished with an “extra stitch” in the diamond structure. (The “extra
stitch” is worked as the 7th stitch in the diagram,i.e. the stitch to the left of the red

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 square, which is purled on row 1/7 in the pattern repeat). The extra stitch is
necessary to make the structure symmetrical in both sides of the diamond
structure.

• Row 1 (front side): Repeat the following: purl a stitch, knit five stitches.
• Row 2 (back side): Repeat the following: purl a stitch, knit a stitch, purl three
stitches, knit a stitch. (Note! Remember to start with an “extra stitch” at the
first repeat. The stitch must be worked as the 7th stitch in the diagram).
• Row 3 (front side): Repeat the following: knit two stitches, purl a stitch, knit a
stitch, purl a stitch, knit a stitch.
• Row 4 (back side): Repeat the following: purl two stitches, knit a stitch, purl
three stitches (note! Remember to start with an “extra stitch” at the first
repeat. The stitch must be worked as the 7th stitch in the diagram).
• Row 5 (front side): Repeat the following: knit two stitches, purl a stitch, knit a
stitch, purl a stitch, knit a stitch.
• Row 6 (back side): Repeat the following: purl a stitch, knit a stitch, purl three
stitches, knit a stitch. (Note! Remember to start with an “extra stitch” at the
first repeat. The stitch must be worked as the 7th stitch in the diagram).

Backwards loop cast on - (watch this video)

Make a regular loop with the yarn and place the loop on your right knitting
needle. Work the loop as a normal stitch on the next row.

Put stitches on hold - (watch this video)

Putting stitches on hold means that you keep the stitches without working them.
Typically, stitches are put on hold on an extra piece of yarn that is pulled through
all of the stitches. By doing this, you ensure that the stitches do not unravel whilst
you are not working them.

Step 3 - Make the front pieces

Start out by making the left front piece by picking up 27 (30) 29 (29) 28 (31) 32 (32)
stitches in the outer stitches of the left part of the cast-on edge of the back piece.
The stitches must be picked up from the front side/outside of the sweater. The
stitches must be picked up front the neck and out towards the shoulder. Pick up the
stitches so you can continue to work on the structures that are already established.

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The first row is made from the back side. Establish the structures on this row
and place 4 stitch markers as follows: Work 8 (11) 10 (10) 9 (12) 13 (13) stitches in a
double seed stitch (start by purling a stitch) - place a stitch marker - purl two stitches -
place a stitch marker - knit two stitches, purl three stitches, knit two stitches, purl three
stitches and knit two stitches - place a stitch marker - purl two stitches - place a stitch
marker - purl three stitches (These three stitches + the new stitches that were added
because of the backwards loop cast ons, are worked in a stockinette stitch until the
right and left front pieces are connected in Step 4. It is not till Step 4, that the stitches
become a part of the diamond structure).

Work back and forth on your front piece, whilst you follow the structure patterns for
14 (14) 10 (6) 4 (4) 4 (4) rows. The first row from the front side is row 1 in the cable
structure.

Make backwards loop cast ons to shape the neckline. Make a cast on on every row
from the front as follows:
• Front side: Make a backwards loop cast on - work all stitches as they appear
(including the backwards loop cast on).
• Back side: Work all stitches as they appear
Repeat the two rows above 4 (4) 5 (7) 7 (7) 7 (8) times. The final row is made from the
back side.
Now, you have 29 (32) 32 (34) 33 (36) 37 (38) stitches on your front piece. Put all the
stitches on hold and cut the yarn. NOTE! Again, remember that when you count the
cable stitches you must only count them as two stitches (and thereby you don’t
count the “yarn over” that you make on row 2).

Make the right front piece by picking up 27 (30) 29 (29) 28 (31) 32 (32) stitches in the
outer stitches of the right side of the back piece. The stitches must be picked up from
the front side/outside of the sweater. Pick up the stitches from the shoulder and in
towards the neckline.

The first row is made from the back side. Establish the structures on this row and place
4 stitch markers as follows: Purl three stitches (these will become a part of the
diamond structure later, as described on the other front piece) - place a stitch
marker - purl two stitches - place a stitch marker - knit two stitches, purl three stitches,
knit two stitches, purl three stitches, knit two stitches - place a stitch marker - purl two
stitches - place a stitch marker. Work 8 (11) 10 (10) 9 (12) 13 (13) stitches in a double
seed stitch (for sizes (S) and XL, 3XL and (4XL): start out by purling a stitch, for the
remaining sizes: start by knitting a stitch).

Make the right front piece in almost the same way as you made the left front piece.
However, make the backwards loop cast ons as the last thing on the rows from the
front side so they are made at the neckline.
The final row is made from the back side. Do not cut the yarn. You will be working
from this point in the next step.

Picking up stitches - (watch this video)

You pick up stitches by inserting your right knitting needle into a “bound off stitch”
along the edge of your knitted piece. Hold the yarn behind your piece, wrap it
around the right needle and pull the yarn out to the front side. Now you have
created a new stitch on your right needle that you can work on the next row.

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Step 4 - Connect the front pieces
Connect the two front pieces as follows: Work the stitches of your right front piece as
they appear. Then, cast on 17 (17) 21 (23) 29 (29) 29 (33) stitches with a backwards
loop cast on. Work the stitches of the left front piece as they appear. Now, you have
75 (81) 85 (91) 95 (101) 103 (109) stitches on your front piece. NOTE! Again, remember
that when you count the cable stitches you must only count them as two stitches
(and thereby you don’t count the “yarn over” that you make on row 2).

Work back and forth on your front piece as the stitches appear. The stockinette
stitches on your front pieces (between the inner stitch markers on the front piece) +
the newly cast on stitches must now be worked in the diamond structure. Start the
diamond structure on the row that matches the row you are currently making from
the cable structure (fx. if you are at row 2 in the cable structure you must start at row
2 in the diamond structure).

Work back and forth as the stitches appear until your front piece measures about 18
(20) 20 (20) 21 (22) 22 (23) cm when measured from where you picked up the
stitches. The final row must be worked from the back side and it must also be row 2 in
the cable structure. Check the back piece to see which row you were at in the
diamond structure before you made the backwards loop cast ons/increases and
make the front piece so you are on the same row of the diamond structure before
you make increases. This might mean that you will have a cable less or more on your
front piece than on the back piece.

Make backwards loop cast ons on both sides of the front piece as follows:
• Front side: Cast on one stitch with a backwards loop cast - work all stitches as
they appear - cast on one stitch with a backwards loop cast on.
• Back side: Work all stitches as they appear (NOTE! The new stitches must
become a part of the structure).

Repeat the two rows above 1 (1) 2 (2) 3 (4) 5 (5) times. Now, you have 77 (83) 89 (95)
101 (109) 113 (119) stitches on your front piece. NOTE! Again, remember that when
you count the cable stitches you must only count them as two stitches (and thereby
you don’t count the “yarn over” that you make on row 2).

Step 5 - Connect the front piece and the back piece

Connect your front piece and your back piece so you can start working in the round.
This is done as follows: Work the stitches of your front piece as they appear - cast on 1
stitch with a backwards loop cast on - work the stitches of your back piece as they
appear - cast on 1 stitch with a backwards loop cast on - then continue to work the
stitches of the front piece again so your piece is now being worked in the round.
Now, you have 156 (168) 180 (192) 204 (220) 228 (240) stitches on your needle. Place
a stitch marker in the middle of your front and back piece on the right side. This
marks the beginning of your round.
NOTE! Be aware that the cable structure and the diamond structure is worked in a
different way in the round as when you worked it back and forth. View the
explanation box beneath this section for more information.

Work in the round in the structures until the body measures 23 (26) 27 (27) 28 (28) 28
(28) cm when measured from the arm hole or until the sweater has the desired
length before adding the ribbed edge - remember to try the sweater on as you

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make it. The final round must be row 2 in the cable structure. Work 9 cm in a
single rib stitch on 3 mm circular needles (80 cm). Bind off all stitches with an
Italian/tubular bind off.

Mock cables in the round are made on a multiple of 2 stitches and 4 rounds -
(watch this video)
• Round 1: Loosely slip a stitch, knit two stitches, lift the first stitch over the two
knitted stitches.
• Round 2: Knit a stitch, yarn over, knit a stitch.
• Round 3: Knit three stitches.
• Round 4: Knit three stitches.
NOTE! When you count the cable stitches, you must always count them as 2
stitches, even if there are sometimes 3 stitches (i.e. you do not count the yarn over
on the second round).

Diamond structure in the round

• Round 1: Repeat the following: purl a stitch, knit five stitches.
• Round 2: Repeat the following: knit a stitch, purl a stitch, knit three stitches,
purl a stitch.
• Round 3: Repeat the following: knit two stitches, purl a stitch, knit a stitch,
purl a stitch, knit a stitch.
• Round 4: Repeat the following: knit three stitches, purl a stitch, knit two
stitches.
• Round 5: Repeat the following: knit two stitches, purl a stitch, knit a stitch,
purl a stitch, knit a stitch.
• Round 6: Repeat the following: knit a stitch, purl a stitch, knit three stitches,
purl a stitch.

Rib - (watch this video)

You work in a rib stitch by alternating between knitting a stitch and purling a stitch
and repeating this throughout the entire round.

Italian/ tubular bind off - (watch this video)

Start out by cutting the yarn. You will need a piece that is approximately 3 times as
long as your ribbed edge. Weave a darning needle with the yarn.
The first stitch is a purl stitch - if this is not the case, just knit a stitch to get to the purl
stitch. Initially, repeat the following:
1) Insert the darning needle knitwise into the purl stitch. Pull the yarn through the
stitch.
2) Insert the darning needle purlwise into the knit stitch. Pull the yarn through the

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 stitch.

Then, repeat the following two steps:

1) Slip the purl stitch purlwise off of your needle and sew knitwise through the next
purl stitch (this is done by first inserting the darning needle between the first and
second stitch on your needle from the back and pulling it through to the front.
Then, sew knitwise through the purl stitch).
2) Slip the knit stitch knitwise off of your needle and sew purlwise through the next
knit stitch.

Step 6 - Make the sleeves

The sleeves are made in the round on a 5 mm circular needle (40 cm). Start out by
picking up stitches along the entire edge of the arm hole - start in the bottom of the
arm hole. The stitches must be picked up from the front side/outside of your sweater
and you need to pick up a stitch in about every 2 out of 3 stitches. You need to have
64 (72) 76 (80) 82 (86) 90 (90) stitches on your needle. Place a stitch marker in the
bottom of your arm hole - this is the beginning of your round.

Place another two stitch markers as follows: Identify the spot where the front piece
and the back piece meets (by the shoulder). Count 7 stitches in each direction and
place a stitch marker in both ends of the total of 14 stitches. These 14 stitches must
be worked as follows: 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 2 cable stitches, 2 purl stitches, 2
cable stitches, 2 purl stitches and 2 knit stitches.

The first row must be row 2 in the cable structure. Work the sleeve in the round in a
double seed stitch, except for the 14 stitches between the two stitch markers - they
must be worked as the stitches appear (knitted, purled or cable stitches as described
above).

Whilst working in the round, you must also make decreases at the beginning of your
round (NOTE! for sizes XS and S you do NOT need to make decreases. Just work in
the round in the pattern without making any decreases).

For the sizes M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) you must make decreases as follows:
• Work 43 (21) 16 (11) 8 (8) rounds without making any decreases.
• Work one round where you make a regular knitted decrease before and after
your beginning of round marker. A total of 2 decreases.
Repeat the two steps above for a total of 2 (4) 5 (7) 9 (9) times.
Now, you have 72 stitches on your round.

Work your sleeve in the round until it measures 38 (38) 37 (37) 36 (36) 35 (34) cm when
measured from the arm hole, or until it has the desired length. Try on the sweater as
you make it to check the size.

Work 9 cm in a single rib stitch on 3 mm circular needles (40 cm). Bind off all stitches
with an Italian/tubular bind off.

Step 7 - Add a ribbed edge to the neckline

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The neckline is worked on 3 mm circular needles (40 cm).
Start out by picking up stitches in the transition between the right front piece and the
back piece. You must pick up stitches in 9 out of 10 stitches along the entire neckline.
You need to have 80 (80) 84 (90) 100 (100) 100 (108) stitches on your circular needle.
Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your round. Work in the round in a rib
stitch until the neckline measures about 10 cm or until it has the desired length. Bind
off all stitches with an Italian/tubular bind off.

Weave in all ends.

Congratulations, you have made a Diamond Structure Sweater!

Weaving in ends - (watch this video)

To ‘weave in ends’ means that you weave in the loose/long strand of yarn that
appears when you are making your knitted piece. This is done with a darning
needle or with a crochet hook. Sew the yarn end down on the inside (backside) of
your knitted piece and secure it with a double knit or something similar.

Share your knitted piece with the hashtag

#diamondstructuresweater and feel free to tag tag @easyasknit.
We would love to see and share your result!

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The pattern is only for private usage. Therefore, the pattern may not be copied, re-sold or
shared. Neither is systematic selling of products made with the pattern allowed

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