Jumper "May"

Hello! My name is Olya.

Thank you for knitting with me!

In this file you will find the detailed instructions on how to knit this jumper.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me through DM on Instagram @o.malica

Tag your work in progress and finished work with the hashtag #May_jumper

Happy knitting! May your tension be perfect!

This pattern is an author’s work and it is intended for personal use only. All the information in this
document is an intellectual property of Olga Grishina. Any copying, even partial, or selling and
sharing of this pattern is prohibited!

(Pictured on the first page – garment in size S)

GARMENT DESCRIPTION: Loose fit, straight silhouette. Square armhole, ruffled sleeve. Round
neckline.

WORK STEPS
1. The body is worked as separate parts : front panel and back panel (bottom up) – it is worked flat. In the
process of working the body we form: armholes, neckline and shoulder shaping.
2. Front and back panel seaming along the shoulder line; side seams.
3. Sleeve – ruffles.
4. Neckline formation.
ABBREVIATIONS AND SPECIAL STITCH

cm – centimeters, mm - millimeters sel st - selvage stitch

m – meter, g – gram RS – right side
st(s) – sticth(es), r – row WS – wrong side
p – purl stitch Blocking – steaming or washing garment depending on
k – knit stitch yarn used

YARN AND NEEDLES

Lang Soft cotton (100 % cotton): 50 g – 120 m - worsted / medium weight yarn
Needed: XS – 300 g; S – 350 g; M – 400 g; L – 450 g

Recommended substitution (based on the yarn successfully used by testers):

1) Hawai seam (100% mercerized cotton): 50 g – 120 m
2) Fibra natura cottonwood (100% cotton): 50 g – 105 m
3) Sandnes Garn Line (53% cotton, 33% viscose, 14% linen): 50 g – 110 m
4) Kremke morning salutation (51% lyocell, 49% cotton): 50 g – 110 m
Other yarn recommendations (worsted weight cotton yarns/cotton blends)
1. Rowan Cotton Cashmere (85% cotton, 15% cashmere): 50g / 125 m
2. Loops and Threads Cotton Colors (100% cotton): 200 g / 360 m
*You can use any yarn that is similar in weight and length.
* When substituting yarn pay closer attention to the yarn content, it has to be similar to the original, otherwise you might
need more yarn!

Needles: 4 mm (straight or circular needles can be used for the body, for working ruffled sleeves it’s more
convenient to use circular needles with 60 cm cord)
Additional materials: Stitch markers. Safety pin (or a strand of yarn) to hold sts that need to be set
aside. Darning needle.
Gauge: (measured after garment was washed!)
24 sts * 28 r = 10 * 10 cm / 4” in “stockinette stitch” using 4 mm needles.
IMPORTANT! Pick your needles size individually depending on the gauge! E.g. if you are using different yarn that
is similar in yardage you can meet the gauge by using smaller or bigger size needles.

SIZES (bust, cm): XS (78–82 / 30 3’4”- 32 1/4”), S (86–90 / 34” - 35 1/2”), M (94–98/ 37” - 38
1/2”), L (102–108 / 40 1/4” - 42 1/2”) for the height from 160-175 cm / 5’2” - 5’9”. - number of stitches
for sizes S, M, L in this pattern is shown in parenthesis (), if there is one number, it means it works
for all sizes.

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NOTES:
Schematics numbers are based on gauge for “Lace design”. The garment size might differ 2-3 cm in
length and width because of the nature of the work.
Selvage stitches (in working flat) – first st – beginning of row - slip st onto the right needle (yarn in front),
last st – end of row - knit into back loop.

*Read all the instructions carefully before starting!

DESIGNS

Ribbing 1*1 (worked flat, sel sts aren’t included).

Row 1 (WS): * k 1, p 1 * - repeat across
Row 2 (RS): repeat row 1.
Repeat rows 1 and 2

Lace design: Design repeat: 10 sts (marked in the chart with a line) + 1 st for symmetry, and 24 rows.
The full chart shows the 10-st repeat placement.
This design gauge is 22 sts * 30 r = 10 *10 cm / 4”, using 4 mm needles. The chart only presents RS
rows, in WS rows work this way: knit all the knit sts, purl all the purl sts, purl all the yarnovers.

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Stitch Key:

Knit stitch

Purl stitch

Yarnover

k2tog (knit two stitches together)

skp (skip 1st stitch kniwise, yarn at back, knit next st, pass
slipped switch over)

s2kp (slip 1st and 2nd st knitwise, knit 3rd st and pass it over two slipped sts) Videos:
https://youtu.be/pdlrDT16ZPY

WORK DESCRIPTION (all panels are worked flat!)

BACK PANEL: using 4 mm needles cast on 86 (98, 106, 118) sts using “German” cast on method.
Cast on video: https://youtu.be/YUqENj2YgFY

Work 17 rows (≈ 6 cm) of ribbing 1*1: 1 sel st / 84 (96, 104, 116) ribbing sts / 1 sel st

Row 18 (RS) – is a set up row - it will place all sts at their positions, each moment is described in step
by step instructions for each size, so be attentive!! This row also includes a horizontal bar increase
method - increase video: https://youtu.be/XprJ9dhbJxc

Row 18 – (1st row of lace design) – 1 sel st / k 2 (3, 2, 3) / work a10-st lace design repeat for 8 (9, 10, 11)
times = 80 (90, 100, 110) sts / p 1 (for symmetry) / k 1 (2, 1, 2) / 1 bar increase knitwise / 1 sel st
87 (99, 107, 119) sts on needles. Work 71 more rows following the design = 3 full vertical repeats of the
lace designs (≈ 24 cm)
Armholes formation: 17 “ribbing” sts + 72 lace design sts = 89 rows worked total.
At the beginning of row 90 we will use a bind off method for forming the armhole – it is shown below.
Bind off:
Picture 1: slip first st, work next st as the pattern states,
pass slipped st over.
Picture 2: ONE st is bound off.
Picture 3: this is how the bound off sts will look.

Because of the bind off - the stitch repeat will shift - it is underlined in the chart on page 5:
XS, S - half of the design repeat is shifted: from Row 90 (1st lace design row) work sts 1-10 starting
from row 13 .
M, L - will shift a whole design repeat: from Row 90 (1st lace design row) work sts 1-10 starting from
row 1.

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 For sizes: XS, S

For sizes: M, L

Row 90 RS– (1st lace design row) – bind off 7 (8, 12, 13) purlwise - 1 st on the right needle / work 10
lace design sts 7 (8, 8, 9) times = 70 (80, 80, 90) sts / 8 (9, 13, 14) design sts / 1 sel st – 80 (91, 95, 106) sts
on needles.
Row 91 WS – bind off 7 (8, 12, 13) purlwise - 1 st on the right needle / 70 (80, 80, 90) lace design sts / 1
st for symmetry - as the chart states / 1 sel st
73 (83, 83, 93) sts on needles. Continue working following the design:
For sizes XS, S: 46 rows
Row 90 and Row 91 + 46 rows = 48 rows total = 2 vertical lace design repeats (≈ 16 cm – armhole height)
For sizes M, L: 58 rows
Row 90 and row 91 + 58 rows = 60 rows total = 2 vertical repeats and 12 lace design rows (≈ 20 cm –
armhole height)
Back panel neckline formation: 89 rows till armholes + 48 (48, 60, 60) rows after armholes = 137
(137, 149, 149) rows worked total.
Place markers to divide back panel sts (sel sts included): 18 (23, 23, 28) sts - shoulder, 37 sts – neckline,
18 (23, 23, 28) sts - shoulder.
The depth of the lack panel neckline is only formed thanks to the shoulder shaping rise.

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Continue where the yarn is:
Shoulder shaping “to the right”
It is worked using shoulder sts bind off, in 5 steps (sel sts
included). Stitch number devision for shoulder shaping for each
size:
• XS – 18 sts: -4/-4/-4/-4/-2
• S – 23 sts: -5/-5/-5/-5/-3
• M - 23 sts: -5/-5/-5/-5/-3
• L – 28 sts: -6/-6/-6/-6/-4

Row 138 (138, 150, 150) RS – 1 (1, 13, 13) lace design rows -
bind off 4 (5, 5, 6) sts knitwise – 1 st on right needle / 13 (17, 17,
21) design sts
Work WS row and continue sts bind off in a RS row referring to stitch number devision mentioned above
for all sizes (7 rows). Shoulder stitches are bound off, the shaping is formed.
Central sts of the panel – place neckline sts onto the safety pin (or onto the additional strand of yarn).
Attach new yarn on the side of the neckline, work one RS row, work shoulder shaping “to the left" on the
second shoulder:
Shoulder shaping “to the left"
It is worked using shoulder sts bind off in WS rows, in 5 steps
(sel sts included). Shoulder stitch number division for bind off for
all sizes:
• XS – 18 sts -4/-4/-4/-4/-2
• S – 23 sts: -5/-5/-5/-5/-3
• M - 23 sts: -5/-5/-5/-5/-3
• L – 28 sts: -6/-6/-6/-6/-4

Row 139 (139, 151, 151) WS – bind off 4 (5, 5, 6) sts purlwise –
1 st on the needle / 13 (17, 17, 21) design sts.
Work RS row and continue sts bind off in each WS row referring to stitch number devision mentioned
above for all sizes (7 rows). Shoulder stitches are bound off, the shaping is formed.
FRONT PANEL: work the same way as the back panel till the armholes; in row 90 and 91 work armhole
shaping the same way and with the same amount of bind off sts.
73 (83, 83, 93) sts on needles. Continue following the design according to the chart:
For sizes XS, S: 40 rows
Row 90 and row 91 + 40 rows= 42 rows total = 1 vertical repeat and 18 lace design rows (≈ 13 cm)
For sizes M, L: 52 rows
Row 90 and row 91 + 52 rows = 54 rows total = 2 vertical repeats and 6 lace design sts (≈ 17 cm)
Front panel neckline formation: 89 rows till armholes + 42 (42, 54, 54) rows after armholes = 131
(131, 143, 143) rows worked total.
Divide front panel sts with markers (sel sts included): 18 (23, 23, 28) sts - shoulder, 37 sts – neckline, 18
(23, 23, 28) sts - shoulder

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37 sts – neckline, mark a central stitch with a marker – it is not worked for this part, it just divides neckline
sts into two even parts of 18 sts – these parts are further divided into 3 more parts that are 6 sts each - for
better understanding the st division of the front panel and how the neckline rows are formed for the neckline
- the chart-helper is shown below:

Continue working the RS row – on the side where the working yarn is we only work with the beginning sts
till the central st – then set a central st and the rest of sts aside (or you can leave them on needles if using
circular needles - if that’s convenient for you).
In a part of neckline sts we will use short rows formed with “yarnovers and turns to WS” method:
Row 132 (132, 144, 144) RS – 19 (19, 7, 7) lace design sts - 1 sel st / 17 (22, 22, 27) design sts / marker /
12 design sts (leave last 6 sts unworked) / yarn over left needle / turn
Row 133 (133, 145, 145) WS – 29 (34, 34, 39) design sts / 1 sel st
Row 134 (133, 146, 146) RS – 21 (21, 9, 9) lace design sts - 1 sel st / 17 (22, 22, 27) design sts / marker /
6 design sts (leave last 12 sts unworked) / yarn over left needle / turn
Row 135 (135, 147, 147) WS – 23 (28, 28, 33) design sts / 1 sel st
Row 136 (136, 148, 148) RS – 23 (23, 11, 11) lace design sts - 1 sel st / 17 (22, 22, 27) design sts / marker
/ (leave last 18 sts unworked) / yarn over left needle / turn
Row 137 (137, 149, 149) WS – 17 (22, 22, 27) design sts /
1 sel st
Neckline sts from the shoulder marker and till the central st
- set them aside; work shoulder sharing on shoulder sts:
Row 138 (138, 150, 150) RS – 1 (1, 13, 13) lace design sts
– repeat shoulder shaping “to the right”
Video – front panel neckline formation:
https://youtu.be/65nVRDon7b4
When finishing the first part you work will look as shown on the picture
on the right.

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Start working on the second part of front panel sts. On the RS count 6 sts to the left from the central st –
and attach yarn:
Row 132 (132, 144, 144) RS – 19 (19, 7, 7) lace design sts - 29 (34, 34, 39) design sts / 1 sel st
Row 133 (133, 145, 145) WS – 1 sel st / 17 (22, 22, 27) design sts / marker / 6 design sts (last 12 sts remain
unworked) / yarn over left needle / turn
Row 134 (133, 146, 146) RS – 21 (21, 9, 9) lace design sts - 23 (28, 28, 33) design sts / 1 sel st
Row 135 (135, 147, 147) WS - 1 sel st / 17 (22, 22, 27) design sts / marker / (last 18 sts remain unworked)
/ yarn over left needle / turn
Row 136 (136, 148, 148) RS – 23 (23, 11, 11) lace design sts - 17 (22, 22, 27) design sts /1 sel st.
Row 137 (137, 149, 149) WS – 1 sel st / 17 (22, 22, 27) design sts
Row138 (138, 150, 150) RS – 1 (1, 13, 13) lace design sts -
17 (22, 22, 27) design sts /1 sel st
Set aside part of neckline sts from the marker dividing
shoulder sts from a central st; work shoulder shaping on
shoulder sts:
Row 139 (139, 151, 151) WS – repeat same steps for shoulder
shaping “to the left”
When finishing the second part you work will look as shown on the picture
on the right.

Shoulder shaping parts on a front panel are located opposite

to back panel shaping parts (if you place both panels wrong sides facing each other), which compensates
the rows difference between shoulder shaping of the left and right shoulders sides of the panels.
Panels seaming. Shoulder seams.
Invisible horizontal on stockinette stitch:
Right sides facing up, place front and back panel shoulder parts one
above another. Insert the needle in the top piece on the right side in the
center of the stitch, moving needle bottom up by the bind off edge, leave
10—15 cm tail.
Insert the needle pointing down in the center of the corresponding
bottom piece right by the bind off edge. Lead the needle up through the
center of the next stitch on the lower panel.
On the top part, find the stitch next to which the needle was just
inserted, and insert the needle into it going to the top of the stitch, to the
left from the next stitch.
Find the corresponding stitch on the lower part, where the needle was inserted earlier, and insert the needle and pull
out through the center of the stitch on the left.
Video – shoulder seam: https://youtu.be/Pc2ugw0_c_0
Side seams
Mattress stitch
Place panels next to each other right sides facing up. Insert your needle pointing up after
the first st of the row on the panel on the left.
Insert the needle from front to back into a corresponding spot on the panel on the right,
joining bottom edges.

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Insert the needle front to back, and into the same spot on the panel on the left where the needle was previously
inserted, and pull it out 1 row above around the bar between sts.
Insert the needle pointing down into the same spot on the panel on the right where the needle was previously inserted
and pull it out in the next row around the bar between sts.
Repeat last two steps, always making sure to insert the needle around the horizontal bar between sts, till the seam
reaches a few centimeters. Then pull on your yarn and bring the panels together. Selvage stitches will be on the wrong
side.
After seaming the ribbing this way, turn your work inside out - pull your needle with yarn to the WS and
continue seaming till the armholes - selvage sts will be on the RS.
Video – side seam: https://youtu.be/3Op6SHkQ4xQ
RUFFLES:
Side seam is divided into 2 parts, inner one – in the ribbing, and outer one – in the body. Outer seam consists
of two columns of knit sts - left and right one. Starting from the beginning of the outer side seam, using 4
mm needles, cast on sts going along the armhole to the left column of knit sts:
*1 st from under both loops of the knit st / 1 twisted yarnover* repeat *…* along the
whole left column till the beginning of the armhole - place marker – 70 sts on needles.
On the picture on the right – how the twisted yarnover is worked.

7 (8, 12, 13) sts out of bind off sts for the armhole - 77(78, 82, 83) sts on needles.
For sizes XS, S: *1 st from the space between sel sts , 1 st from sel st - 4
times; 1 st from the space between sel sts, 1 st from the space between sel
sts, 1 st from sel st – 1 time *, repeat *…*, trying to be around a similar
amount of sts mentioned here, moving along the armholes of the front
and back panels – cast on total of: XS=90 sts, S=88 sts
For sizes M, L: *1 st from the space between sel sts /1 st from the space
between sel sts / 1 st from sel st *, repeat *…*, keep up with this sequence,
moving along the front and back panel armholes – cast on: M=92 sts,
L=90 its total
“Keep up” – means you DO NOT need to work those stitches in exact same
manner as stated, if you don’t have enough sts till the next number mentioned
in the description - you can add them out of different selvage sts.

7 (8, 12, 13) sts worked from sts for the notch - marker - 174(174, 186, 186) sts on needles.
*1 twisted yarnover /1 knit st out of both loops * repeat *…* along the whole column of sts on the seam
till the ribbing – 70 sts - 244(244, 256, 256) sts on needles.
Video of picking up sts for ruffles: https://youtu.be/hyIFFWB-SRM
Working flat. Markers now separated sts into parts where different design will be worked:
70 sts along the seam till armholes – “stockinette stitch";
Sts along the armhole – designs “Diamonds":
XS = 7 notch sts + 90 sts + 7 notch sts = 104 sts = 17 repeats of 6 “Diamonds” design sts + 2 for symmetry.
S = 8 notch sts + 88 sts + 8 notch sts = 104 sts = 17 repeats of 6 “Diamonds” design sts + 2 for symmetry.
M = 12 notch sts + 92 sts + 12 notch sts = 116 sts = 19 repeats of 6 “Diamonds” design sts + 2 for symmetry.
L= 13 notch sts + 90 sts + 13 notch sts = 116 sts= 19 repeats of 6 “Diamonds” design sts + 2 for symmetry.
70 sts along the seam till armholes - stockinette stitch;

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 Design “Diamonds": the repeat in the
design isn’t consistent, from row 1 to
row 7 it has first 6 sts + 2 sts for
symmetry, and then it contains more sts;
full chart presents the rhythm and the
width of the repeat. The chart is created
for RS and WS rows: odd rows – WS
rows, even – RS rows.

Knit stitch

Purl stitch

Yarnover

Twisted knit stitch (knit into back loop)

Twsited purl stitch (purl into back loop)

No stitch

Double knot (work: 1 twisted knit / p 2 / 1 twisted knit – transfer these 4 sts onto a cable needle
and wrap working yarn twice around them counterclockwise. Return these 4 sts back to the right
needle) Stitch video: https://youtu.be/6WescLDmNts

After picking up sts – work on WS row (each row corresponds to a “Diamonds” design row in the
armhole part)
Row 1 WS - 1 sel st / p 69 / marker / 102 (102, 114, 114) “Diamonds” design sts + 2 knit sts for symmetry
/ marker / p 69 / 1 sel st
Work 3 more rows (till chart row 4 inclusively), working side parts in stockinette stitch, and in armhole
using “Diamonds” design.
Next we will use short rows worked with help of a yarnover:
Video: Ruffles formation principle: https://youtu.be/9q0y46KGRzU
Row 5 WS - 1 sel st / p 69 / marker / 102 (102, 114, 114) “Diamonds” design sts + 2 knit sts for symmetry
/ marker / p 48 / turn / yarn over right needle
Row 6 RS - k 48 / marker / 102 (102, 114, 114) “Diamonds” design sts + 2 knit sts for symmetry / marker
/ k 48 / turn / yarn over right needle
Row 7 WS - p 48 / marker / 102 (102, 114, 114) “Diamonds” design sts + 2 knit sts for symmetry / marker
/ p 32 / turn / yarn over right needle
In row 8 the amount of sts in a repeat (and in a total amount) increases because of yarnovers!
Row 8 RS - k 32 / marker / 136 (136, 152, 152) “Diamonds” design sts + 2 knit sts for symmetry / marker
/ k 32 / turn / yarn over right needle
Row 9 WS - p 32 / marker / 136 (136, 152, 152) “Diamonds” design sts + 2 knit sts for symmetry / маркер
/ p 16 / turn/ yarn over right needle
In row 10 the amount of sts in a repeat (and in a total amount) increases because of yarnovers!

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Row 10 RS - k 16 / marker / 187 (187, 209, 209) “Diamonds” design sts + 2 knit sts for symmetry / marker
/ k 16 / turn / yarn over right needle
Row 11 WS - p 16 / marker / 187 (187, 209, 209) “Diamonds” design sts + 2 knit sts for symmetry /
remove marker / turn / yarn over right needle
The design ends in row 11, then ruffles sts are worked as follows:
Row 12 RS – 189 (189, 211, 211) design sts / remove marker / turn / yarn over right needle
Row 13 WS - 188 (188, 210, 210) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (1 st left)
Row 14 RS – 187 (187, 209, 209) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (1 st left)
Row 15 WS – 185 (185, 207, 207) design sts / turn /yarn over right needle (2 sts left)
Row 16 RS – 183 (183, 205, 205) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (2 sts left)
Row 17 WS - 180(180, 202, 202) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (3 sts left)
Row 18 RS – 177 (177, 199, 199) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (3 sts left)
Row 19 WS - 173 (173, 195, 195) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (4 sts left)
Row 20 RS – 169 (169, 191, 191) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (4 sts left)
Row 21 WS - 164 (164, 186, 186) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (5 sts left)
Row 22 RS – 159 (159, 181, 181) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (5 sts left)
Row 23 WS - 153 (153, 175, 175) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (6 sts left)
Row 24 RS – 147 (147, 169, 169) design sts / turn / yarn over right needle (6 sts left)
In the next WS row – work it till the end! - work all sts as the design sts,
knit all yarnover sts together with the st following it: if the next st is a knit
st - knit them together, if the st following the yarnover st is a purl st – then
purl them together.
Turn on the RS – then bind off all sts in this row (using the same bind off
method mentioned here earlier). Since this row will have yarnover sts made
after turning, we will need to work them together with the following them
st and bind off right away. Bind off all ruffles sts.
Video: last row and ruffle sts bind off:
https://youtu.be/b22RUBP99m8
Neckline shaping
Starting from left side seam, using 4 mm needles, working along the front panel neckline: on edge of the
shoulder shaping, till the set aside sts - pick up 5 sts; transfer sts and yarnovers of the neckline on the
needles – 37 sts + 5 turn yarnovers; along the edge of the front panel shoulder shaping, back panel shaping
till the set aside sts of the back panel – pick up 10 sts; transfer back and front panel neckline sts on the
needles – 37 sts, along the edge of the back panel shoulder shaping – 5 sts.
Row 1 (in a round) – knit all sts, working turn yarnovers together with the st following them in the first part
of the neckline and with a preceding stitch in the second part of the neckline.
Row 2-9 (in a round) – ribbing 1*1 : *k 1, p 1 *; repeat *…* around, same for all rows.
Stretchy ribbing bind off (it is worked using a needle on the RS with the help of yarnovers):
Video – https://youtu.be/Z_bmzuSLCgE

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1. Slip first st of the round to the right needle.
2. If the next st is a purl st: work «yarnover front to back”, purl 1 st – 3 sts on
the right needle; pass yarnover st and a slipped st over the purled st - 1 st on
the right needle.
3. If the next st is a knit st: work “yarnover back to front”, knit 1 st - 3 sts on
the right needle; pass yarnover st and a slipped st over the just knitted st -
1 st on the right needle.
4. Bind off all sts using steps 2 and 3.
Blocking
Weave in ends carefully. Wash your garment according to the care instructions for Your yarn. Lay flat to
dry.
Share your work on Instagram using hashtag #may_jumper
I’ll be happy if you tag my account on Instagram @o.malica
© 2021 Olga Grishina. All rights reserved.

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