Siri Sweater

A cabled sweater seems more manageable

when the cables are worked in St st on most
rounds and only twisted every 4th and 6th
rounds. Cables are combined with a simple
moss stitch pattern which is highlighted nicely
in both blown yarn and a wool and mohair
combination.
The sweater has cables running down the
middle of each sleeve and three cables in the
middle of the front. The back is in moss stitch.

Sizes
(XS) S (M) L (XL) 2XL

Sweater measurements
Circumference
(107) 112 (117) 127 (133) 138 cm //
(42.5) 44.5 (46.5) 50.5 (52.75) 54.75 inches.
Length:
(55) 56 (58) 60 (61) 63 cm //
(21.5) 22 (23) 23.75 (24.25) 25 inches.

Yarn
Filcolana Saga (100 % wool, 50 = 300 m) 2
treads held together with Filcolana Tilia
(70 % kid mohair, 30 % silk, 25 g = 210 m).

OR

Sandnes Garn Kos (62% babyalpaca, 29%

nylon, 9% wool, 50 g = 150 m).

Yarn quantity, Saga and Tilia

Saga col. Marzipan 977:
(300) 350 (350) 400 (450) 450 g
Tilia col. Latte 336:
(125) 125 (125) 150 (175 g)
Yarn quantity, Kos (see leknit.com)
Light blue 6031: (350) 400 (400) 450 (500) 500 g

Recommended needles, Saga and Tilia

Circular needle 4 and 6 mm (40 and 80 cm), [US6 and US10, 16 and 32”]
Double pointed needles 4 mm [US6].
Thin circular needle (approx. 3 mm [US3]) for knitting neckband together.
If you use magic loop, you do not need double pointed needles.

Recommended needles, Kos

Circular needle 4 and 5.5 mm (40 and 80 cm). [US6 and US9, 16 and 32”]
Double pointed needles 4 mm [US6].
Thin circular needle (approx. 3 mm [US3]) for knitting neckband together.
If you use magic loop, you do not need double pointed needles.

Gauge
Saga (2 threads) and Tilia (1 thread):
15.5 sts x approx. 26 rows moss st = 10 x 10 cm (4”) on needles 6 mm [US10].

Kos:
15.5 sts x approx. 26 rows moss st = 10 x 10 cm (4”) on needles 5.5 mm [US9].

Moss stitch:
Row/round 1: (k1, p1).
Row/round 2: Knit the knit sts, purl the purl sts.
Row/round 3: Purl the knit sts, knit the purl sts.
Row/round 4: Like row/round 2.

Construction note
Work top down. First the double neckband is worked in rib. The main pattern is then
established while short rows are worked to shape the neckline and raglan increases begin.
All this is described row by row. When short rows are complete, you simply work in the
round. The first rounds are also described round by round, but once the front pattern has
been established, a chart is provided for the remainder.

Size selection
Siri sweater has an intended positive ease of approx. 18-25 cm. The pictured sweater has a
positive ease of approx. 20 cm.
The fit is flexible, so select a size above or below if you want less or more positive ease.
The length is measured at the centre-back, not including the neckband.

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Abbreviations
Cross 3 sts to the left: Slip 3 sts purlwise onto a cable needle, keep cable needle in front of
work as you knit the next 3 sts, then knit sts from cable needle.

Cross 3 sts to the right: Slip 3 sts purlwise onto a cable needle, keep cable needle at the
back of work as you knit the next 3 sts, then knit sts from cable needle.

GSR: Use German short rows to shape the neckline so it is lower in the front than the back.
German short rows are abbreviated to GSR and are worked as follows: after turning the
work, slip the first stitch with the working yarn in front. Move the working yarn to the back
of the work and tighten the slipped stitch until the two legs of the stitch are visible. Work
back long the row as normal. On the next row, when you reach the two legs of the turning
stitch, work these as a single stitch. For further guidance, look for German short row
tutorials on YouTube.

M1R
Pick up the strand of yarn between stitches with the left needle from back to front. Knit this
stitch in the front leg of the stitch (like a normal knit stitch) = 1 st increased.

M1Rp
Pick up the strand of yarn between stitches with the left needle from back to front. Purl this
stitch in the front leg of the stitch (like a normal purl stitch) = 1 st increased.

M1L
Pick up the strand of yarn between stitches with the left needle from front to back. Knit this
stitch in the back leg of the stitch (like a twisted knit stitch) = 1 st increased.

M1Lp
Pick up the strand of yarn between stitches with the left needle from front to back. Purl this
stitch in the back leg of the stitch (like a twisted purl stitch) = 1 st increased.

Instructional videos are available at leknit.com. Find the links at the bottom of this page:
https://leknit.com/shop/siri-sweater-english-918p.html

Siri Sweater

Neckband
Begin at the top. Cast on (76) 76 (76) 82 (82) 82 sts on a 4 mm [US6] circular needle. Join
and work in the round. Work 7 cm [3”] rib (k1, p1).
Now fold the neckband in half and knit it together: With a thin circular needle, pick up
(without the yarn) 1 st in every second st along the cast-on edge (in the purl sts) = (38) 38
(38) 41 (41) 41 sts. Hold the two circular needles together (the thin one is held at the back),

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so the neck band is folded in half. *Knit the first st on each needle together, p1 from front
needle *. Repeat from * to * for rest of round.
Note: Work the sts onto a 5.5 / 6 mm [US9 / US10] circular needle (40 cm) [16”]
= (76) 76 (76) 82 (82) 82 sts.
Continue with 5.5 / 6 [US9 / US10] circular needles as described below:

A lot of things happen at the same time at the start of the pattern. The neckline is shaped,
raglan increases are made while also setting up the various patterns. Everything is described
row by row, so don’t give up. Once you’ve set up your work and the increases are in place, Siri
sweater is an easy knit!

Yoke
Work back and forth to shape the neckline.
Row 1 (RS): k1, m1L, knit (1) 1 (1) 3 (3) 3, place marker, 3 raglan-sts (= k1, p1, k1), place
marker, m1Lp, p1, k1, p1, k2, work *m1L, k1* a total of 5 times, p1, k1, p1, m1Rp, place
marker, 3 raglan-sts (= k1, p1, k1), place marker, m1L, work *k1, m1L* a total of ( 1) 1 (1) 2 (2)
2 times, k1, p1, k1, m1L, work *k1, p1* a total of 4 times, k1, m1R, k1, p1, work *k1, m1R* a
total of (2) 2 (2) 3 (3) 3 times (= (23) 23 (23) 27 (27) 27 sts for the back), place marker, 3 raglan-
sts (= k1, p1, k1), place marker, m1Lp, p1, k1, p1, k2, work *m1L, k1* a total of 5 times, p1, k1,
p1, m1Rp (= sleeve), place marker, 3 raglan-sts (= k1, p1, k1), place marker, knit (1) 1 (1) 3 (3) 3,
m1L, k2, turn (= short rows to shape the front neck).
Note: When you continue working, keep the markers on either side of the raglan sts in
place. Work raglan sts as (k1, p1, k1) on RS and (p1, k1, p1) on WS.

Row 2 (WS): GSR, purl (3) 3 (3) 5 (5) 5, 3 raglan-sts, k2, p1, k1, p12, k1, p1, k2, 3 raglan-sts,
work *k1, p1* a total of (11) 11 (11) 13 (13) 13 times, k1, 3 raglan-sts, k2, p1, k1, p12, k1, p1,
k2, 3 raglan-sts, purl (4) 4 (4) 6 (6) 6, turn.

On the next row you make raglan increases on each side of the 4 groups of raglan sts as
follows:
Row 3 (RS): GSR, k1, m1L, knit (2) 2 (2) 4 (4) 4, m1R, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, work *k1, p1* a
total of 2 times, k12, work *p1, k1* a total of 2 times, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, k1, work
*p1, k1* until next raglan-sts, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, work *k1, p1* a total of 2 times,
k12, work *p1, k1* a total of 2 times, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1L, knit (2) 2 (2) 4 (4) 4, m1L, k3,
turn.

Row 4 (WS): GSR, purl (6) 6 (6) 8 (8) 8, 3 raglan-sts, k1, work *p1, k1* a total of 2 times, p12,
work *k1, p1* a total of 2 times, k1, 3 raglan-sts, k1, work *p1, k1* until next raglan-sts, 3
raglan-sts, k1, work *p1, k1* a total of 2 times, p12, work *k1, p1* a total of 2 times, k1, 3
raglan-sts, purl (7) 7 (7) 9 (9) 9, turn.

Row 5 (RS): GSR, knit (6) 6 (6) 8 (8) 8, m1R//m1Rp (= m1R on the 3 smallest sizes and m1Rp
on the 3 largest sizes), 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, k1, p2, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p2, k1, m1Rp, 3 raglan-

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sts, m1Lp, k1, work *p1, k1* until next raglan-sts, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, k1, p2, k1, p1,
k12, p1, k1, p2, k1, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1L//m1Lp (= m1L on the 3 smallest sizes and m1Lp
on the 3 largest sizes), knit (8) 8 (8) 9 (9) 9, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, turn.

Row 6 (WS): GSR, purl (8) 8 (8) 9 (9) 9, knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, 3 raglan-sts, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1,
p12, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, 3 raglan-sts, k1, work *p1, k1* until next raglan-sts, 3 raglan-sts, k1,
p1, k2, p1, k1, p12, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, 3 raglan-sts, knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, p9, knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1,
turn.

Row 7 (RS): GSR, cross 3 sts to the left, knit (2) 2 (2) 3 (3) 3, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, m1R, 3
raglan-sts, m1Lp, work *k1, p1* a total of 3 times, cross 3 sts to the left, cross 3 sts to the
right, work *p1, k1* a total of 3 times, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, k1, work *p1, k1* until
next raglan-sts, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, work *k1, p1* a total of 3 times, cross 3 sts to the
left, cross 3 sts to the right, work *p1, k1* a total of 3 times, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1L, purl
(0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, knit (2) 2 (2) 3 (3) 3, cross 3 sts to the right, p1, k1, turn.

Row 8 (WS): GSR, k1, p9, knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, 3 raglan-sts, k1, work *p1,
k1* a total of 3 times, p12, work *k1, p1* a total of 3 times, k1, 3 raglan-sts, k1, work *p1,
k1* until next raglan-sts, 3 raglan-sts, k1, work *p1, k1* a total of 3 times, p12, work *k1,
p1* a total of 3 times, k1, 3 raglan-sts, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, p9, k1, p1, k1.
Break the yarn. Move the sts around the circular needle so the new start of round starts
with the raglan sts just before the back sts. Use a different marker for the start of round so
you can tell it apart from the other markers.
Continue in the round. The sleeve pattern is established (18 sts cable pattern in the middle
with moss st on either side) as well as the back pattern (moss st), but there are not yet
enough sts on the front to fit the central cable pattern (42 sts). The 10 first rounds are
therefore described below until the front pattern is established.
Continue to work raglan sts as established on all rounds (k1, p1, k1).

Round 1: 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, k1, work *p1, k1* until next raglan-sts, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts,
m1Lp, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, knit (0) 0
(0) 1 (1) 1, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, k9, p1, k1, p1, k2, work *m1L, k1* a total of 5 times, p1, k1, p1,
k9, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1,
k12, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, m1Rp.

Round 2: 3 raglan-sts, p1, work *k1, p1* until next raglan-sts, 3 raglan-sts, work *p1, k1* a
total of 2 times, p2, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p2, work *k1, p1* a total of 2 times, 3 raglan-sts, p1,
knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, k9, p1, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p1, k9, p1, knit (0) 0 (0) 1
(1) 1, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, 3 raglan-sts, work *p1, k1* a total of 2 times, p2, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1,
p2, work *k1, p1* a total of 2 times = (137) 137 (137) 145 (145) 145 sts.

Round 3: 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, k1, work *p1, k1* until next raglan-sts, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts,
m1Lp, work *k1, p1* a total of 4 times, k12, work *p1, k1* a total of 4 times, m1Rp, 3
raglan-sts, m1L//m1Lp (= m1L on the 3 smallest sizes and m1Lp on the 3 largest sizes), p1,

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knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, cross 3 sts to the left, k3, p1, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p1, k3
, cross 3 sts to the right, p1, knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, m1R//m1Rp (= m1R on
the 3 smallest sizes and m1Rp on the 3 largest sizes), 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, work *k1, p1* a
total of 4 times, k12, work *p1, k1* a total of 4 times, m1Rp.

Round 4: 3 raglan-sts, p1, work *k1, p1* until next raglan-sts, 3 raglan-sts, work *p1, k1* a
total of 4 times, p1, k12, p1, work *k1, p1* a total of 4 times, 3 raglan-sts, purl (0) 0 (0) 2 (2)
2, k1, p1, k9, p1, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p1, k9, p1, k1, purl (0) 0 (0) 2 (2) 2, 3 raglan-sts, work *p1,
k1* a total of 4 times, p1, k12, p1, work *k1, p1* a total of 4 times = (145) 145 (145) 151 (151)
151 sts.

Round 5: 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, k1, work *p1, k1* until next raglan-sts, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts,
m1Lp, work *k1, p1* a total of 2 times, k1, p2, k1, p1, cross 3 sts to the left, cross 3 sts to the
right , p1, k1, p2, work *k1, p1* a total of 2 times, k1, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, work *k1,
p1* a total of (1) 1 (1) 2 (2) 2 times, k9, p1, k1, p1, cross 3 sts to the left, cross 3 sts to the
right, p1, k1, p1, k9, work *p1, k1* a total of (1) 1 (1) 2 (2) 2 times, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp,
work *k1, p1* a total of 2 times, k1, p2, k1, p1, cross 3 sts to the left, cross 3 sts to the right,
p1, k1, p2, work *k1, p1* a total of 2 times, k1, m1Rp.

Round 6: 3 raglan-sts, p1, work *k1, p1* until next raglan-sts, 3 raglan-sts, work *p1, k1* a
total of 3 times, p2, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p2, work *k1, p1* a total of 3 times, 3 raglan-sts, p1,
work *k1, p1* a total of (1) 1 (1) 2 (2) 2 times, k9, p1, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p1, k9, p1, work *k1,
p1* a total of (1) 1 (1) 2 (2) 2 times, 3 raglan-sts, work *p1, k1* a total of 3 times, p2, k1, p1,
k12, p1, k1, p2, work *k1, p1* a total of 3 times = (153) 153 (153) 161 (161) 161 sts.

Round 7: 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, k1, work *p1, k1* until next raglan-sts, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts,
m1Lp, work *k1, p1* a total of 5 times, k12, work *p1, k1* a total of 5 times, m1Rp, 3
raglan-sts, m1Lp, knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, purl (1) 1 (1) 2 (2) 2, k1, p1, k3, cross 3 sts to the right,
p1, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p1, cross 3 sts to the left, k3, p1, k1, purl (1) 1 (1) 2 (2) 2, knit (0) 0 (0) 1
(1) 1, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, work *k1, p1* a total of 5 times, k12, work *p1, k1* a total
of 5 times, m1Rp.

Round 8: 3 raglan-sts, p1, work *k1, p1* until next raglan-sts, 3 raglan-sts, work *p1, k1* a
total of 5 times, p1, k12, work *p1, k1* a total of 5 times, p1, 3 raglan-sts, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1)
1, knit (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, p2, k1, p1, k9, p1, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p1, k9, p1, k1, p2, knit (0) 0 (0) 1
(1) 1, purl (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 1, 3 raglan-sts, work *p1, k1* a total of 5 times, p1, k12, work *p1,
k1* a total of 5 times, p1 = (161) 161 (161) 169 (169) 169 sts.

Round 9: 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, k1, work *p1, k1* until next raglan-sts, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts,
m1Lp, k1, work *p1, k1* a total of 3 times, p2, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p2, k1, work *p1, k1* a
total of 3 times, m1Rp, 3 raglan-sts, m1Lp, work *k1, p1* a total of (2) 2 (2) 3 (3) 3 times, k9,
p1, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p1, k9, work *p1, k1* a total of (2) 2 (2) 3 (3) 3 times, m1Rp, 3 raglan-
sts, m1Lp, k1, work *p1, k1* a total of 3 times, p2, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p2, k1, work *p1, k1* a
total of 3 times, m1Rp.

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Round 10: 3 raglan-sts, p1, work *k1, p1* until next raglan-sts, 3 raglan-sts, work *p1, k1* a
total of 4 times, p2, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p2, work *k1, p1* a total of 4 times, 3 raglan-sts,
work *p1, k1* a total of (2) 2 (2) 3 (3) 3 times, p1, k9, p1, k1, p1, k12, p1, k1, p1, k9, p1, work
*k1, p1* a total of (2) 2 (2) 3 (3) 3 times, 3 raglan-sts, work *p1, k1* a total of 4 times, p2, k1,
p1, k12, p1, k1, p2, work *k1, p1* a total of 4 times = (169) 169 (169) 177 (177) 177 sts.

Round 11: From this round you follow the chart. The chart shows the pattern for the front
and sleeves (including raglan increases) as well as raglan sts. On the back you continue in
the established moss stitch pattern with raglan increases. As the chart shows you now only
increase every 4th round on the sleeves, but still every 2nd round for the front and back
sections.

Continue until there are (18) 19 (20) 20 (21) 22 sts in moss st on either side of both sleeves (a
total of (54) 56 (58) 58 (60) 62 sleeve-sts), (20) 22 (24) 27 (29) 31 sts moss st on either side of
the front section (a total of (82) 86 (90) 96 (100) 104 front-sts) and (75) 79 (83) 89 (93) 97
back-sts.
You make made (26) 28 (30) 31 (33) 35 raglan increases on either side of the back and front.
You have made (17) 18 (19) 19 (20) 21 raglan increases on either side of each sleeve.
In total you have (277) 289 (301) 313 (325) 337 sts.

Mid back the work measures approx. (21) 22 (23) 24 (25) 27 cm [(8) 8.5 (9) 9.5 (10) 10.5”]
(excluding neckband)**.
Optionally work a couple more rounds in pattern if you haven’t reached the length yet, or if
you desire a longer yoke. Break the yarn.
Now set aside the sleeve-sts + 1 raglan-st on either side of the sleeves to rest (= (56) 58 (60)
60 (62) 64 sts for each sleeve) while you work the body.

Body
The round will begin after the cables on the front. Work double moss st to resting sleeve
sts, cast-on (7) 7 (7) 9 (9) 9 sts with backwards loop, work back-sts, cast on (7) 7 (7) 9 (9) 9 sts
with backwards loop method, work the remaining front-sts = (179) 187 (195) 211 (219) 227
sts.

By starting the round at the front by the cables, you avoid jogs between rounds in the double
moss stitch. The start of round for the sleeves is also by the cables i.e. on the top of the sleeve.

Work approx. (28) 28 (29) 30 (30) 30 cm [(11) 11 (11,5) 12 (12) 12“] in moss st (while
continuing to work cables on the front) until the sweater measures approx. (49) 50 (52) 54
(55) 57 cm [(19) 19.5 (20.5) 21 (21.5) 22.5”] (measured mid back, excluding the neckband) or
6 cm shorter than desired length. End with the 2 rounds in moss st pattern where the
rounds begin with 1 purl.

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Change to 4 mm circular needle, work next round like this: k1, work rib *p1, k1* until the 42
chart-sts on the front, p1, k1, p1, work *k1, p2tog* twice, work *k1, p1 * a total of 3 times,
work *k1, p2tog* a total of 3 times, work *k1, p1* twice, work *k1, p2tog* twice, work *k1,
p1* a total of 4 times = (172) 180 (188) 204 (212) 220 sts.
Work 6 cm [2.5”] rib (k1, p1). Bind off. I recommend using a tubular bind-off for a nice and
neat edge.

Sleeve
Begin on the top of the sleeve with the st after the 18 cable pattern sts. Work in the round
as established on a circular needle 5.5 /6 mm [US9 / US10] and pick up (9) 9 (9) 11 (11) 11 sts
along the new sts on the front and- back = (65) 67 (69) 71 (73) 75 sts. Mark the start of the
round as well as the middle of the new sts (= middle of the under arm), decreases will be
made around this st later. When the sleeve measures approx. 1 cm [0.5”] you start
decreasing. It is easiest to decrease on a round where you also twist the cables.
Decrease as follows: Work to 1 st before the marked middle st, slip 2 stitches as if to knit 2
together, knit 1, pass 2 slipped sts over knit st.
Size (XS) S: Work decreases every 12th round (i.e. at the same time as every 2nd cable) (9) 9
times.
Size (M) L (XL) 2XL: Work the decreases every 6th round (i.e. at the same time as every
cable) (3) 3 (4) 4 times and thereafter on every 12th round (i.e at the same time as every 2nd
cable) 7 times.
All sizes: after alle the decreases there are (47) 49 (49) 51 (51) 53 sts.
Work until the sleeve measures approx. 42 cm [16.5”]. Note: the sleeves are extra long here.
If you don’t want extra long sleeves, work until 8 cm [3”] before desired length and exclude
the last decrease.
Change to 4 mm [US6] double pointed needles and work rib (k1, p1), while evenly
decreasing to (44) 46 (46) 48 (48) 50 sts on the first round. Work 8 cm [3“] rib. Bind off. I
recommend using a tubular bind-off for a nice and neat edge.

© Lene Holme Samsøe 2023 - this pattern is for private use only and may not be resold,
redistributed or copied. Systematic sale of products made with this pattern is not allowed. Feel
free to share your version of Siri sweater on Instagram #sirisweater #leknit
@leneholmesamsoe

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