This pattern is protected by copyright and is intended for personal use only and

must not be used for commercial purposes

© a nordic knitting tale
1
 Sizes
x-small (small) medium (large) x-large

Chest measurements
87 (93) 98 (102) 108 cm
Suggested yarn
Drops air or Sandnes alpaka and thin mohair/silk (winterversion)
Two strands of Coast yarn (summerversion)
Yardage (meters)
300 (300) 350 (400) 450 g Drops air (winterversion)or
400 (400)450 (500) 500 g Alpaka from Sandnes 125 (125) 125 (150) 150 g thin
silk mohair from Sandnes (winterversion)
Coast yarn 300 (350) 350 (350) 400 g (summerversion)
Gauge
18 sts = 10 cm (winterversion)
20 sts = 10 cm (summerversion)
Needles
Circular needles 4,5mm and 5mm (or the size you need to obtain gauge) approx
60- 80 cm wire.

About the ruffle sweater

The sweater is knitted top down. The shape is created by raglan

increases. 4 stitch markers indicate the transition from front
piece to sleeve and back piece and the second sleeve. Increases
are made on each side of the markers, giving a total of 8
increases on every second round.

Use the same needle size throughout the entire work, for the
sleeves and the body. If the needle is too long switch to magic
loop. Rib edges are knit using the smaller needle size.The ruffle
is made by a staggered purl row while making raglan increases.
When the sweater is done, the ruffle is made by picking up
stitches along the V created by the purl bumps.

The ruffle is made by a staggered purl row while making raglan

increases. When the sweater is done, the ruffle is made by picking
up stitches along the V created by the purl bumps.

The length of the body and sleeves can easily be adjusted to your
body. The measurements in the pattern are for guidance only.

In case you need to lengthen the body or sleeves, make sure that
you have enough yarn. The yardage is for the given measurements
and correct gauge
This pattern is protected by copyright and is intended for personal use only and
must not be used for commercial purposes
© a nordic knitting tale
2
Remember to make a gauge swatch to ensure you get gauge. If you
miss gauge, the result can be quite a disaster because of the many
stitches. Make a note with your chosen needle size to make sure
you use the right size on the entire project, except for the
ribbing which is worked using a 0,5 mm smaller needle size.

If you share your finished sweater on social media please use

#mumsrufflesweater and #anordicknittingtale.

Happy knitting! If you have questions along the way, send me an

email at info@anordicknittingtale and I will get back to you as
soon as possible.

Neck line

With smaller needles cast on 64

(64) 72 (76) 80 (summer version 72 Abbreviations
(72) 76 (80) 84
k = knit
) sts using a stretchy cast on
method. p = purl
rnd = round
Join sts to work in the round, m = marker
being careful not to twist sts.
n = needle
Place marker at beginning of round
(BOR). This marker also indicates MB = mid back
the mid back (MB). BOR = beginning of round
tog = together
Work in twisted rib *k1tbl, p1*
Repeat from * to * to BOR, slip decr = decrease
marker. Repeat ribbing for 8 tbl = the stitch is worked through
rounds. When you reach BOR on the the back loop
last round, switch to needle size M1R = increase one stitch leaning
5mm. right (pick up the bar between the
stitches with the left needle from
back to front, knit into the front
K the next round, increasing stitch)
evenly to 72 (76) 80 (84) 92
(summer version 84 (84) 88 (92) M1L = increase one stitch leaning
left (pick up the bar between the
96) sts. stitches with the left needle from
front to back, knit in to the back
Work short rows on the back to of the new stitch) ds = double
shape the neck: stitch (used in short rows - see
further instructions below)
From BOR k 5 sts. Make a ds and
turn.
P to 5 sts after BOR. Make a ds and turn.
K to 10 sts after BOR. Make a ds and turn
P to 10 sts after BOR. Make a ds and turn
K to 15 sts after BOR. Make a ds and turn
P to 15 sts after BOR. Make a ds and turn
K to 20 sts after BOR. Make a ds and turn
This pattern is protected by copyright and is intended for personal use only and
must not be used for commercial purposes
© a nordic knitting tale
3
P to 20 sts after BOR. Make a ds and turn.

How to knit short rows

There are many ways to knit short rows and they all have in common
that none of them are perfectly invisible. At least that is my
experience. The following method is the method I have had most luck
with. This is known as german short rows. If you are more
comfortable with another method, feel free to use that instead:
Work to the point for your turn. Turn your work around. Put your
right needle into the next stitch on the left needle as if to purl
it, and slip the stitch onto the right needle. Snug the yarn tight
so that the stitch appears to have two 'legs'. This is referred to
as a double stitch (ds). When knitting this stitch later on, the
double stitch are knitted/purled together as if they were one
stitch. Work this stitch a bit tight to make the turn as invisible
as possible.

The neck has now been shaped to fit your body. K to BOR. K another
round.

Next round: Place markers for raglan increases WHILE knitting in

the round and knitting the ds.

Begin increasing.

Winter version: Increase round: K 13 (14) 15 (16) 18 sts, M1R,

place marker at the next stitch, M1L, k 8 sts, M1R, place marker
at the next stitch, M1L, k 26 (28) 30 (32) 36 sts, M1R, place
marker at the next stitch, M1L, k 8 st, M1R, place marker at the
next stitch, M1L, k 13 (14) 15 (16) 18 sts.

Summer version: Increase round: K 15 (15) 16 (17) 18 sts, M1R,

place marker at the next stitch, M1L, k 10 sts, M1R, place marker
at the next stitch, M1L, k 30 (30) 32 (34) 36 sts, M1R, place
marker at the next stitch, M1L, k 10 st, M1R, place marker at the
next stitch, M1L, k 15 (15) 16 (17) 18 sts.

The marked st indicates the division of the front piece, the back
piece and the sleeves.

Continue to k in the round and repeat increase round on every

second round.

Repeat until increased 10 times.

Purl ruffle row: k to 1 st before the first marker, P to 1 st

after second marker, K to 1 st before third marker, P to 1 st
after fourth marker.

This pattern is protected by copyright and is intended for personal use only and
must not be used for commercial purposes
© a nordic knitting tale
4
Continue increases on every second round WHILE continuing to make
purl bumps on front and back piece. On every round P1 st before
and after the first purl st, so that the purl bumps eventually
reach each other in a V on both the front and back.

Continue raglan increases until you have 22 (24) 25 (26) 27

(summer version 25 (27) 29 (30) 32 ) increases, and have 248 (268)
280 (292) 308 (summer version 284 (300) 320 (332) 352) sts.

Body

Increases are now done. K to first marker. Place the following 52

(56) 58 (60) 62 (summer version 60 (64) 68 (70) 74) sts (first
sleeve) on scrap yarn, cast on 6 (summer version 8) sts and k to
third marker, place the following 52 (56) 58 (60) 62 (summer
version 60 (64) 68 (70) 74) sts (second sleeve) on scrap yarn,
cast on 6 sts, k to BOR.
Let the sleeves rest while the body is finished. Continue to work
in stockinette stitch over the remaining 156 (168) 176 (184) 196
(summer version 180 (188) 200 (208) 220) sts.

K to the piece measures approx 36 (38) 40 (42) 42 cm or desired

length.

Edging

Begin at BOR and decrease evenly to 125 (135) 140 (150) 155
(summer version 110 (120) 130 (135) 140) sts by using k2tog.

Switch to 4,5mm needles.

Rib edge: Begin at BOR and work in twisted rib *k1tbl, P1* Repeat
from * to * until end. Repeat ribbing for 24 rounds. Bind off
using your preferred elastic bind-off.

Sleeves

Place the 52 (56) 58 (60) 62 (summer version 60 (64) 68 (70) 74)

sleeve sts on 5 mm needle. K the first round and cast on 3 (Summer
version 4) new sts under the arm, place marker (indicates the
middle of the sleeve) and cast on another 3 (Summer version 4)
sts.

Continue knitting stockinette stitch in the round for approx 5 cm.

Decrease round: Begin at the marker. K2tog, k to 2 sts before
marker, slip 1 st, k1 sts and pass over the slipped stitch.

Work in stockinette stitch in the round for 5 cm.

This pattern is protected by copyright and is intended for personal use only and
must not be used for commercial purposes
© a nordic knitting tale
5
Repeat decrease round.

Continue to knit 5 cm and then decrease until sleeve measures

approx 39 (40) 41 (42) 43 cm.This measure is for guidance only -
make a sleeve that fits you by shortening or lengthening the
sleeve.

When reaching the desired sleeve length, decrease evenly to 38

(38) 40 (40) 42 (summer version 40 (40) 42 (42) 44) sts.

Switch to 4,5 mm needles and continue in twisted ribbing *k1tbl,

p1* Repeat from * to * until end. Work in ribbing for 12 rounds.
Bind off using your preferred elastic bind-off.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Ruffle

Pick up sts along the V purl ridge. Pick up sts from above and
into the st and cast on in both upper and lower loop, ending with
a total number of sts that is twice the amount of your purl sts.

K in stockinette stitch until desired length. Bind off in one of

the following methods:

Folded edge: P one round. This will be a folding line for a folded
ruffle. K in stockinette stitch for approx. 1 cm. Bind off. This
method is used on the below picture.

Rolled edge: Bind off using regular knit sts. This will give a
rolled edge that is very decorative and a bit more lighter than
the folded edge. Notice that this type of edge will always roll,
even after blocking.

Finishing
Weave in all the ends.

Ruffle with folded edge: Fold the ruffle by the folding line and
sew on the wrong side.

Ruffle with rolled edge: Press the ruffle while laying flat. The
edge will always roll a bit.
Press and/or block the sweater.

This pattern is protected by copyright and is intended for personal use only and
must not be used for commercial purposes
© a nordic knitting tale
6