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CLOUDY DAY SWEATER

Pattern by SuviKnits

Boxy drop-sleeved sweater with a beautiful Lace pattern on body and faux seams on each side.
The sweater is worked seamlessly from top down, shaping the shoulders with short rows (photo
tutorial for German short row technique included). The Lace pattern has both charted and written
instructions.

My patterns in Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/designers/suviknits


My patterns in Payhip: https://payhip.com/SuviKnits
Pattern support: suvisdesigns@gmail.com
Instagram: @suviknits

1 Copyright SuviKnits 2023


PATTERN INFORMATION
SIZES
XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
Bust circumference of the finished sweater: 42 ½ (47 ¼, 47 ¼, 52, 56 ½, 61 ¼, 66, 70 ¾)” /
106.5 (118, 118, 130, 141.5, 153, 165, 176.5) cm.
To fit the actual bust: 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56)” / 70 (80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130, 140) cm.
Designed to be worn with approximately 11-15” / 28-38 cm of positive ease. Shown in size S.
When choosing the size, please pay attention to the upper sleeve measurement on page 3. Since
the sweater is oversized and for example sizes S and M have the same bust circumference, it’s
more important that the upper sleeve is the size you like.

YARN
DK-weight yarn, approximately 1210 (1310, 1415, 1610, 1735, 1865, 2120, 2255) yds / 1105 (1200,
1295, 1475, 1585, 1705, 1940, 2065) m.
Shown in Sandnes Garn Double Sunday (118 yds / 108 m per 50 g; 100 % merino wool), color 1012.
If you’d like to add length, one pattern repeat (28 rows) takes approximately 120 (130, 130, 145,
155, 170, 185, 195) yds / 110 (120, 120, 130, 145, 155, 170, 180) m of extra yarn. Please note that
the given amounts are only an estimate.

NEEDLES
For main body and sleeves:
US 6 / 4 mm circular needles, at least 32” / 80 cm
US 6 / 4 mm double-pointed needles (or a long circular needle if using Magic loop technique)
For ribbings:
US 4 / 3.5 mm circular needles, 16” / 40 cm and 32” / 80 cm
US 4 / 3.5 mm double-pointed needles (or a long circular needle if using Magic loop technique)

NOTIONS
2 regular stitch markers (I recommend markers with different color or shape)
1 locking stitch marker
row counter
waste yarn or spare needles for holding the stitches
tapestry needle

GAUGE
21 sts and 30 rows in Stockinette stitch using larger needles = 4” / 10 cm after blocking
20.5 sts and 34.5 rows in Lace pattern using larger needles = 4” / 10 cm after blocking
Row gauge for Lace pattern pre-blocked is 32, which has been taken into account

2 Copyright SuviKnits 2023


CONSTRUCTION NOTES
The upper back is worked first. Stitches for each front are then picked up from the CO-row of the
back and worked separately to the given length, adding the neck shaping. The fronts are then
joined and worked in one piece to the same length as the back. Front and back are then
joined and the body is worked in the round. Stitches for each sleeve are picked up around the
armholes and the sleeves are worked in the round towards the cuffs.

ABBREVIATIONS
BOR - beginning of round
CO - cast on
DS - double stitch
k - knit
KDS - knit the two loops of the double stitch together as one
k2tog - knit 2 stitches together [-1 st]
MDS - make a double stitch using German short row technique
M1L - (left-slanting increase) insert left needle, from front to back, under a strand of yarn between
needles and knit this stitch through the back loop [+1 st]
M1R - (right-slanting increase) insert left needle, from back to front, under a strand of yarn
between needles and knit this stitch through the front loop [+1 st]
p - purl
PDS - purl the two loops of the double stitch together as one
p2tog - purl two stitches together [-1 st]
pm - place marker
rep - repeat
rnd / rnds - round / rounds
RS - right side
sk2p - slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over [-2 sts]
sm - slip marker
ssk - slip two stitches one at a time as if to knit, insert left needle into these stitches and knit them
together through the back loops [-1 st]
st / sts - stitch / stitches
WS - wrong side
yo - yarn over needle

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
• Upper body width between armholes: 21 ¾ (24, 24, 26 ¼, 28 ½, 30 ¾, 33 ¼, 35 ½)” / 54 (60, 60,
65.5, 71.5, 77, 83, 88.5) cm
• Bust circumference: 42 ½ (47 ¼, 47 ¼, 52, 56 ½, 61 ¼, 66, 70 ¾)” / 106.5 (118, 118, 130, 141.5,
153, 165, 176.5) cm
• Total length from back neck to hem (neck ribbing not included): 20 ¼ (20 ¼, 21 ¾, 23 ½, 23 ½,
23 ½, 25, 25)” / 50.5 (50.5, 54.5, 58.5, 58.5, 58.5, 62.5, 62.5) cm
• Upper sleeve circumference: 13 (13 ¾, 15 ¼, 16, 16 ¾, 18 ¼, 20 ½, 22)” / 32.5 (34, 38, 40, 42,
45.5, 51.5, 55) cm. The sleeves have approximately 3 ½” / 9 cm of positive ease built in.
• Sleeve length to underarm: 17” / 43 cm for all sizes

3 Copyright SuviKnits 2023


PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
BACK
Using the larger circular needle loosely CO 114 (126, 126, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186) sts. Do not join.

Place markers for shoulder shaping (WS):


Purl 33 (39, 39, 45, 49, 55, 61, 67) sts for shoulder, pm A, purl 48 (48, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52, 52) sts for
back neck, pm B, purl the next stitch and attach a locking stitch marker into this stitch, purl to end.
The locking stitch marker is needed when you’re picking up stitches for the left front. Until then
just ignore it. I recommend using different markers for A and B so you can clearly see which is
which when you’re working the short rows.

Shape the shoulders with short rows (photo tutorial for German short rows is on the last page)
Short row 1 (RS): knit to marker A and slip it, k6 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 12, 13), turn.
Short row 2 (WS): MDS, purl to marker B and slip it, p6 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 12, 13), turn.
Short row 3 (RS): MDS, knit to marker A and slip it, knit to DS and KDS, k6 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13),
turn.
Short row 4 (WS): MDS, purl to marker B and slip it, purl to DS and PDS, p6 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13),
turn.
Short row 5 (RS): MDS, knit to marker A and slip it, knit to DS and KDS, k7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13),
turn.
Short row 6 (WS): MDS, purl to marker B and slip it, purl to DS and PDS, p7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13),
turn.
Short row 7 (RS): MDS, knit to marker A and slip it, knit to DS and KDS, k7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14),
turn.
Short row 8 (WS): MDS, purl to marker B and slip it, purl to DS and PDS, p7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14),
turn.
Short row 9 (RS): MDS, knit to marker A and slip it, knit to DS and KDS, knit to end.
Short row 10 (WS): purl to marker A and remove it, purl to marker B and remove it, purl to DS and
PDS, purl to end.

Work 15 rows in Stockinette stitch, ending with a RS row.

Work decrease row to match the gauge for Lace (WS): p2, * p2tog, p52 (58, 58, 64, 70, 76, 82,
88); rep from * once more, p2tog, p2 = 3 sts decreased; 111 (123, 123, 135, 147, 159, 171, 183) sts
remain.

Begin the Lace pattern by following the charted instructions on the next page or written
instructions on page 6. When the work measures 7 ¼ (7 ¾, 8 ¼, 8 ¾, 9 ¼, 10, 11, 11 ¾)” /
18.5 (19.5, 21, 22, 23.5, 25, 28, 29.5) cm from the CO-row, measured down the middle of back
neck and ending with a WS row, break yarn and place the back sts on a spare needle or on a piece
of waste yarn to be worked later. Write down how many rows of Lace pattern you have worked so
far. You will need this number when you’re working the front to the same length. Tip: based on
the row gauge before blocking, it’s approximately 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 52, 60, 66) rows of Lace.
After that, continue to “Left front” on page 6.

4 Copyright SuviKnits 2023


CHARTED INSTRUCTIONS, worked back and forth in rows
on RS rows: knit the edge st, work according to Chart to the outlined section, then repeat the
outlined section to the last 8 sts on your needle (9 sts on Row 9), work according to Chart to the
edge st and knit it.
on WS rows: purl the edge st, work according to Chart to the outlined section, then repeat the
outlined section to the last 7 sts on your needle, work according to Chart to the edge st and purl it.
Repeat Rows 1-28 to the given length.

28 X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X 28
27 X \ o o / \ o o / X 27
26 X . . . . . . . . . . X 26
25 X \ o o / \ o o / X 25
24 X . . . . . . X 24
23 X \ o \ o o / o t o \ o o / o / X 23
22 X . . X 22
21 X \ o \ o o / o / \ o \ o o / o / X 21
20 X X 20
19 X \ o o / \ o o / X 19
18 X X 18
17 X \ o o / \ o o / X 17
16 X X 16
15 X \ o o / \ o o / X 15
14 X X 14
13 X o / \ o o / \ o X 13
12 X X 12
11 X o / \ o o / \ o X 11
10 X X 10
9 X o / o t o \ o o / o t o \ o X 9
8 X . . X 8
7 X o / o / \ o \ o o / o / \ o \ o X 7
6 X . . . . . . X 6
5 X o / \ o o / \ o X 5
4 X . . . . . . . . . . X 4
3 X o / \ o o / \ o X 3
2 X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X 2
1 X o / \ o o / \ o X 1
25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

o yo
X edge stitch (see instructions) k2tog
/
knit on RS, purl on WS ssk
\
. purl on RS, knit on WS t sk2p

5 Copyright SuviKnits 2023


WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS, worked back and forth in rows
Row 1 (RS): k2, rep (yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k1) to last st, k1.
Row 2 (WS): p4, rep (k7, p5) to last 11 sts, k7, p4.
Row 3 (RS): k3, rep (yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k3) to end.
Row 4 (WS): p5, rep (k5, p7) to last 10 sts, k5, p5.
Row 5 (RS): k4, rep (yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5) to last 11 sts, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k4.
Row 6 (WS): p6, rep (k3, p9) to last 9 sts, k3, p6.
Row 7 (RS): k2, rep [(yo, ssk, k1) 2 times, (k2tog, yo, k1) 2 times] to last st, k1.
Row 8 (WS): p7, rep (k1, p11) to last 8 sts, k1, p7.
Row 9 (RS): k3, rep (yo, ssk, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k3) to end.
Rows 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 20 (WS): purl.
Row 11 (RS): k4, rep (yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5) to last 11 sts, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k4.
Row 13 (RS): k5, rep (yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k7) to last 10 sts, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k5.
Row 15 (RS): k5, k2tog, yo, k1, rep (yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k1) to last 7 sts, yo, ssk, k5.
Row 17 (RS): k4, k2tog, yo, k3, rep (yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k3) to last 6 sts, yo, ssk, k4.
Row 19 (RS): k3, k2tog, yo, k5, rep (yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5) to last 5 sts, yo, ssk, k3.
Row 21 (RS): k2, (k2tog, yo, k1) 2 times, rep [(yo, ssk, k1) 2 times, (k2tog, yo, k1) 2 times] to last 7
sts, (yo, ssk, k1) 2 times, k1.
Row 22 (WS): p7, rep (k1, p11) to last 8 sts, k1, p7.
Row 23 (RS): (k1, k2tog, yo) 2 times, k3, rep (yo, ssk, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k3) to last 6
sts, (yo, ssk, k1) 2 times.
Row 24 (WS): p6, rep (k3, p9) to last 9 sts, k3, p6.
Row 25 (RS): k3, k2tog, yo, k5, rep (yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5) to last 5 sts, yo, ssk, k3.
Row 26 (WS): p5, rep (k5, p7) to last 10 sts, k5, p5.
Row 27 (RS): k2, k2tog, yo, k7, rep (yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k7) to last 4 sts, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 28 (WS): p4, rep (k7, p5) to last 11 sts, k7, p4.
Repeat Rows 1-28 to the given length.

LEFT FRONT
Hold the work right side facing you, CO-row of the back pointing upwards. Using the larger circular
needle pick up and knit 33 (39, 39, 45, 49, 55, 61, 67) sts from the CO-row of the back, starting at
the stitch that has the locking stitch marker attached to it.
Purl one row on WS. You can now remove the locking stitch marker.

Shape the shoulder with short rows:


Short row 1 (RS): k6 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 12, 13), turn.
Short rows 2, 4, 6 and 8 (WS): MDS, purl to end.
Short row 3 (RS): knit to DS and KDS, k6 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13), turn.
Short row 5 (RS): knit to DS and KDS, k7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13), turn.
Short row 7 (RS): knit to DS and KDS, k7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14), turn.
One DS remains on left front. When you’re working the first neck increase row, work KDS when
you come to it.

6 Copyright SuviKnits 2023


Shape the neckline:
Work increase row (RS): k2, M1L, knit to end = 1 st increased.
Repeat increase row on every RS row 5 more times = 39 (45, 45, 51, 55, 61, 67, 73) sts total.
Purl one row on WS. Break yarn and place the left front sts on a piece of waste yarn to be worked
later. You can also leave them on your circular needle while you’re working the right front.

RIGHT FRONT
Hold the work right side facing you, CO-row of the back pointing upwards. Using the larger circular
needle pick up and knit 33 (39, 39, 45, 49, 55, 61, 67) sts from the CO-row of the back, starting
from the right edge.

Shape the shoulder with short rows:


Short row 1 (WS): p6 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 12, 13), turn.
Short rows 2, 4, 6 and 8 (RS): MDS, knit to end.
Short row 3 (WS): purl to DS and PDS, p6 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13), turn.
Short row 5 (WS): purl to DS and PDS, p7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13), turn.
Short row 7 (WS): purl to DS and PDS, p7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14), turn.
Short row 9 (WS): purl to DS and PDS, purl to end.

Shape the neckline:


Work increase row (RS): knit to 2 sts before the end of row, M1R, k2 = 1 st increased.
Repeat increase row on every RS row 5 more times = 39 (45, 45, 51, 55, 61, 67, 73) sts total.
Purl one row on WS. Do not break yarn.

Join both fronts onto the same circular needle:


• starting at the beginning of right front sts, on RS of work, knit across the right front sts,
• then CO 36 (36, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40, 40) sts for mid front,
• place the left front sts on your left needle (if they aren’t there already),
• knit across the left front sts
= 114 (126, 126, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186) sts total.

Work 4 rows in Stockinette stitch, ending with a RS row.

Work decrease row to match the gauge for Lace (WS): p2, * p2tog, p52 (58, 58, 64, 70, 76, 82,
88); rep from * once more, p2tog, p2 = 3 sts decreased; 111 (123, 123, 135, 147, 159, 171, 183) sts
remain.

Work the Lace pattern just as you did for the back and continue until the front is exactly the same
length as the back (check the number you wrote down earlier). Last row is a WS row. Do not break
yarn.

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Join back and front onto the same circular needle: work the front sts in Lace pattern as
established, place side marker, work the back sts in Lace pattern as established, place BOR marker
= 222 (246, 246, 270, 294, 318, 342, 366) sts total; 111 (123, 123, 135, 147, 159, 171, 183) sts for
both front and back.

BODY
Continue working the Lace pattern in the round by following the charted or written instructions
(see below). From this point onwards the edge stitches on each side of the front and back are
purled, creating faux seams on body (2 purl sts on each side).
Work in established patterns until the sweater measures 19 ¼ (19 ¼, 21, 22 ¾, 22 ¾, 22 ¾, 24 ½,
24 ½)” / 48.5 (48.5, 53, 57, 57, 57, 61.5, 61.5) cm, measured down the middle of back neck, ending
preferably with either Row 10, 14 or 28 of Lace pattern (can be any other even numbered row too
but these should look the best) or 2” / 5 cm less than desired length. Tip: based on the row gauge
before blocking, it’s approximately 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) repeats and 14 (14, 0, 14, 14, 14, 0, 0) rows
of Lace pattern in total.
After that, continue to “Ribbing” on page 9.

CHARTED INSTRUCTIONS, worked in the round:


Reading the Chart (page 5) from right to left on all rounds, work as follows:
* purl the edge st, work according to Chart to the outlined section, then repeat the outlined
section to the last 8 sts before marker (9 sts on Row 9), work according to Chart to the edge st and
purl it, sm; rep from * once more.
Repeat Rows 1-28 to the given length.

WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS, worked in the round:


Rnd 1: * p1, k1, rep (yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k1) to 1 st before marker, p1, sm; rep from * once
more.
Rnd 2: * p1, k3, rep (p7, k5) to 11 sts before marker, p7, k3, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 3: * p1, k2, rep (yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k3) to 12 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k2,
p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 4: * p1, k4, rep (p5, k7) to 10 sts before marker, p5, k4, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 5: * p1, k3, rep (yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5) to 11 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3,
p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 6: * p1, k5, rep (p3, k9) to 9 sts before marker, p3, k5, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 7: * p1, k1, rep [(yo, ssk, k1) 2 times, (k2tog, yo, k1) 2 times] to 1 st before marker, p1, sm; rep
from * once more.
Rnd 8: * p1, k6, rep (p1, k11) to 8 sts before marker, p1, k6, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 9: * p1, k2, rep (yo, ssk, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k3) to 12 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k1,
yo, sk2p, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnds 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 20: * p1, knit to 1 st before marker, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 11: * p1, k3, rep (yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5) to 11 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3,
p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 13: * p1, k4, rep (yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k7) to 10 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4,
p1, sm; rep from * once more.

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Rnd 15: * p1, k4, k2tog, yo, k1, rep (yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k1) to 7 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k4,
p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 17: * p1, k3, k2tog, yo, k3, rep (yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k3) to 6 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k3,
p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 19: * p1, k2, k2tog, yo, k5, rep (yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5) to 5 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k2,
p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 21: * p1, k1, (k2tog, yo, k1) 2 times, rep [(yo, ssk, k1) 2 times, (k2tog, yo, k1) 2 times] to 7 sts
before marker, (yo, ssk, k1) 2 times, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 22: * p1, k6, rep (p1, k11) to 8 sts before marker, p1, k6, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 23: * p1, (k2tog, yo, k1) 2 times, k2, rep (yo, ssk, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k3) to 6 sts
before marker, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 24: * p1, k5, rep (p3, k9) to 9 sts before marker, p3, k5, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 25: * p1, k2, k2tog, yo, k5, rep (yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5) to 5 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k2,
p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 26: * p1, k4, rep (p5, k7) to 10 sts before marker, p5, k4, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 27: * p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k7, rep (yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k7) to 4 sts before marker, yo, ssk, k1,
p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Rnd 28: * p1, k3, rep (p7, k5) to 11 sts before marker, p7, k3, p1, sm; rep from * once more.
Repeat Rnds 1-28 to the given length.

Ribbing
Change to the smaller circular needle and work the ribbing as follows: * p1, (k1, p1) to marker,
sm; rep from * once more.
Continue in established ribbing for 2” / 5 cm.
Bind off stitches by using your preferred method for stretchy bind-off.

SLEEVES
Starting at the underarm, on RS of work and using larger needles, pick up and knit 34 (36, 40, 42,
44, 48, 54, 58) sts across the edge of the armhole in approximate ratio of 2 sts for every 3 rows
until you come to the top of the shoulder. Then pick up and knit another 34 (36, 40, 42, 44, 48, 54,
58) sts across the edge of the armhole on the other side until you come to the underarm again
= 68 (72, 80, 84, 88, 96, 108, 116) sts total.
Place the BOR marker and continue working in the round.

Work 1 ½” / 4 cm in Stockinette stitch.

Work decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts of round, ssk, k1 = 2 sts decreased.
Repeat decrease round on every 10 (9, 7, 7, 7, 6, 5, 4)th round 3 (5, 9, 9, 3, 3, 9, 21) more times and
then on every 9 (8, 6, 6, 6, 5, 4, 3)th round 7 (6, 5, 5, 12, 15, 12, 3) times = 46 (48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 64,
66) sts remain.

Work without decreases until the sleeve measures approximately 15” / 38 cm or 2” / 5 cm less
than desired length.

9 Copyright SuviKnits 2023


Ribbing
Change to the size US 4 / 3.5 mm needles and work in (k1, p1) ribbing for 2” / 5 cm.
Bind off stitches by using your preferred method for stretchy bind-off.
Make the other sleeve to match.

NECK RIBBING:
Join yarn at the beginning of back neck sts, on RS of work. Using the shorter, size US 4 / 3.5 mm
circular needle pick up and knit sts for ribbing as follows:
• 50 (50, 50, 50, 54, 54, 54, 54) sts across the back neck, 1 stitch for every CO-stitch +1 st on each
side to prevent gaps,
• 17 sts across the left front in approximate ratio of 3 sts for every 4 rows,
• 36 (36, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40, 40) sts across the middle front, 1 stitch for every CO-stitch,
• 17 sts across the right front in approximate ratio of 3 sts for every 4 rows
= 120 (120, 120, 120, 128, 128, 128, 128) sts total. If you can’t get the exact number of sts, just
make sure your stitch count is an even number.

Place the BOR marker and begin working in the round. Work in (k1, p1) ribbing for 2” / 5 cm.
Loosely bind off stitches. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing (at least 3 times the
circumference of the neck opening). Fold the ribbing in half and sew the bind off edge to the
wrong side of work as shown on the photo below. Make sure to keep the ribbing aligned.

FINISHING
Weave in the yarn ends. Place the sweater in lukewarm water and let it soak thoroughly. Gently
squeeze out the excess water. Place the sweater on a towel and roll in to remove further
moisture. Lay on a flat surface and let dry completely.

10 Copyright SuviKnits 2023


GERMAN SHORT ROWS

MDS (worked identically on RS and WS rows):


slip the first stitch on your left needle purlwise with yarn in front, then pull the yarn over the top
of the stitch to the back of the work until the stitch turns around and starts to look like two
stitches. The double stitch (DS) is always treated as a single stitch and counted as one.

Knitting the two loops of a double stitch together as one (KDS, worked on RS): knit to the double
stitch and knit the two loops together.

Purling the two loops of a double stitch together as one (PDS, worked on WS): purl to the double
stitch and purl the two loops together.

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