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Cloudy Day Sweater Pattern by SuviKnits
Cloudy Day Sweater Pattern by SuviKnits
Pattern by SuviKnits
Boxy drop-sleeved sweater with a beautiful Lace pattern on body and faux seams on each side.
The sweater is worked seamlessly from top down, shaping the shoulders with short rows (photo
tutorial for German short row technique included). The Lace pattern has both charted and written
instructions.
YARN
DK-weight yarn, approximately 1210 (1310, 1415, 1610, 1735, 1865, 2120, 2255) yds / 1105 (1200,
1295, 1475, 1585, 1705, 1940, 2065) m.
Shown in Sandnes Garn Double Sunday (118 yds / 108 m per 50 g; 100 % merino wool), color 1012.
If you’d like to add length, one pattern repeat (28 rows) takes approximately 120 (130, 130, 145,
155, 170, 185, 195) yds / 110 (120, 120, 130, 145, 155, 170, 180) m of extra yarn. Please note that
the given amounts are only an estimate.
NEEDLES
For main body and sleeves:
US 6 / 4 mm circular needles, at least 32” / 80 cm
US 6 / 4 mm double-pointed needles (or a long circular needle if using Magic loop technique)
For ribbings:
US 4 / 3.5 mm circular needles, 16” / 40 cm and 32” / 80 cm
US 4 / 3.5 mm double-pointed needles (or a long circular needle if using Magic loop technique)
NOTIONS
2 regular stitch markers (I recommend markers with different color or shape)
1 locking stitch marker
row counter
waste yarn or spare needles for holding the stitches
tapestry needle
GAUGE
21 sts and 30 rows in Stockinette stitch using larger needles = 4” / 10 cm after blocking
20.5 sts and 34.5 rows in Lace pattern using larger needles = 4” / 10 cm after blocking
Row gauge for Lace pattern pre-blocked is 32, which has been taken into account
ABBREVIATIONS
BOR - beginning of round
CO - cast on
DS - double stitch
k - knit
KDS - knit the two loops of the double stitch together as one
k2tog - knit 2 stitches together [-1 st]
MDS - make a double stitch using German short row technique
M1L - (left-slanting increase) insert left needle, from front to back, under a strand of yarn between
needles and knit this stitch through the back loop [+1 st]
M1R - (right-slanting increase) insert left needle, from back to front, under a strand of yarn
between needles and knit this stitch through the front loop [+1 st]
p - purl
PDS - purl the two loops of the double stitch together as one
p2tog - purl two stitches together [-1 st]
pm - place marker
rep - repeat
rnd / rnds - round / rounds
RS - right side
sk2p - slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over [-2 sts]
sm - slip marker
ssk - slip two stitches one at a time as if to knit, insert left needle into these stitches and knit them
together through the back loops [-1 st]
st / sts - stitch / stitches
WS - wrong side
yo - yarn over needle
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
• Upper body width between armholes: 21 ¾ (24, 24, 26 ¼, 28 ½, 30 ¾, 33 ¼, 35 ½)” / 54 (60, 60,
65.5, 71.5, 77, 83, 88.5) cm
• Bust circumference: 42 ½ (47 ¼, 47 ¼, 52, 56 ½, 61 ¼, 66, 70 ¾)” / 106.5 (118, 118, 130, 141.5,
153, 165, 176.5) cm
• Total length from back neck to hem (neck ribbing not included): 20 ¼ (20 ¼, 21 ¾, 23 ½, 23 ½,
23 ½, 25, 25)” / 50.5 (50.5, 54.5, 58.5, 58.5, 58.5, 62.5, 62.5) cm
• Upper sleeve circumference: 13 (13 ¾, 15 ¼, 16, 16 ¾, 18 ¼, 20 ½, 22)” / 32.5 (34, 38, 40, 42,
45.5, 51.5, 55) cm. The sleeves have approximately 3 ½” / 9 cm of positive ease built in.
• Sleeve length to underarm: 17” / 43 cm for all sizes
Shape the shoulders with short rows (photo tutorial for German short rows is on the last page)
Short row 1 (RS): knit to marker A and slip it, k6 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 12, 13), turn.
Short row 2 (WS): MDS, purl to marker B and slip it, p6 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 12, 13), turn.
Short row 3 (RS): MDS, knit to marker A and slip it, knit to DS and KDS, k6 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13),
turn.
Short row 4 (WS): MDS, purl to marker B and slip it, purl to DS and PDS, p6 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13),
turn.
Short row 5 (RS): MDS, knit to marker A and slip it, knit to DS and KDS, k7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13),
turn.
Short row 6 (WS): MDS, purl to marker B and slip it, purl to DS and PDS, p7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13),
turn.
Short row 7 (RS): MDS, knit to marker A and slip it, knit to DS and KDS, k7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14),
turn.
Short row 8 (WS): MDS, purl to marker B and slip it, purl to DS and PDS, p7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14),
turn.
Short row 9 (RS): MDS, knit to marker A and slip it, knit to DS and KDS, knit to end.
Short row 10 (WS): purl to marker A and remove it, purl to marker B and remove it, purl to DS and
PDS, purl to end.
Work decrease row to match the gauge for Lace (WS): p2, * p2tog, p52 (58, 58, 64, 70, 76, 82,
88); rep from * once more, p2tog, p2 = 3 sts decreased; 111 (123, 123, 135, 147, 159, 171, 183) sts
remain.
Begin the Lace pattern by following the charted instructions on the next page or written
instructions on page 6. When the work measures 7 ¼ (7 ¾, 8 ¼, 8 ¾, 9 ¼, 10, 11, 11 ¾)” /
18.5 (19.5, 21, 22, 23.5, 25, 28, 29.5) cm from the CO-row, measured down the middle of back
neck and ending with a WS row, break yarn and place the back sts on a spare needle or on a piece
of waste yarn to be worked later. Write down how many rows of Lace pattern you have worked so
far. You will need this number when you’re working the front to the same length. Tip: based on
the row gauge before blocking, it’s approximately 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 52, 60, 66) rows of Lace.
After that, continue to “Left front” on page 6.
28 X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X 28
27 X \ o o / \ o o / X 27
26 X . . . . . . . . . . X 26
25 X \ o o / \ o o / X 25
24 X . . . . . . X 24
23 X \ o \ o o / o t o \ o o / o / X 23
22 X . . X 22
21 X \ o \ o o / o / \ o \ o o / o / X 21
20 X X 20
19 X \ o o / \ o o / X 19
18 X X 18
17 X \ o o / \ o o / X 17
16 X X 16
15 X \ o o / \ o o / X 15
14 X X 14
13 X o / \ o o / \ o X 13
12 X X 12
11 X o / \ o o / \ o X 11
10 X X 10
9 X o / o t o \ o o / o t o \ o X 9
8 X . . X 8
7 X o / o / \ o \ o o / o / \ o \ o X 7
6 X . . . . . . X 6
5 X o / \ o o / \ o X 5
4 X . . . . . . . . . . X 4
3 X o / \ o o / \ o X 3
2 X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X 2
1 X o / \ o o / \ o X 1
25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
o yo
X edge stitch (see instructions) k2tog
/
knit on RS, purl on WS ssk
\
. purl on RS, knit on WS t sk2p
LEFT FRONT
Hold the work right side facing you, CO-row of the back pointing upwards. Using the larger circular
needle pick up and knit 33 (39, 39, 45, 49, 55, 61, 67) sts from the CO-row of the back, starting at
the stitch that has the locking stitch marker attached to it.
Purl one row on WS. You can now remove the locking stitch marker.
RIGHT FRONT
Hold the work right side facing you, CO-row of the back pointing upwards. Using the larger circular
needle pick up and knit 33 (39, 39, 45, 49, 55, 61, 67) sts from the CO-row of the back, starting
from the right edge.
Work decrease row to match the gauge for Lace (WS): p2, * p2tog, p52 (58, 58, 64, 70, 76, 82,
88); rep from * once more, p2tog, p2 = 3 sts decreased; 111 (123, 123, 135, 147, 159, 171, 183) sts
remain.
Work the Lace pattern just as you did for the back and continue until the front is exactly the same
length as the back (check the number you wrote down earlier). Last row is a WS row. Do not break
yarn.
BODY
Continue working the Lace pattern in the round by following the charted or written instructions
(see below). From this point onwards the edge stitches on each side of the front and back are
purled, creating faux seams on body (2 purl sts on each side).
Work in established patterns until the sweater measures 19 ¼ (19 ¼, 21, 22 ¾, 22 ¾, 22 ¾, 24 ½,
24 ½)” / 48.5 (48.5, 53, 57, 57, 57, 61.5, 61.5) cm, measured down the middle of back neck, ending
preferably with either Row 10, 14 or 28 of Lace pattern (can be any other even numbered row too
but these should look the best) or 2” / 5 cm less than desired length. Tip: based on the row gauge
before blocking, it’s approximately 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) repeats and 14 (14, 0, 14, 14, 14, 0, 0) rows
of Lace pattern in total.
After that, continue to “Ribbing” on page 9.
Ribbing
Change to the smaller circular needle and work the ribbing as follows: * p1, (k1, p1) to marker,
sm; rep from * once more.
Continue in established ribbing for 2” / 5 cm.
Bind off stitches by using your preferred method for stretchy bind-off.
SLEEVES
Starting at the underarm, on RS of work and using larger needles, pick up and knit 34 (36, 40, 42,
44, 48, 54, 58) sts across the edge of the armhole in approximate ratio of 2 sts for every 3 rows
until you come to the top of the shoulder. Then pick up and knit another 34 (36, 40, 42, 44, 48, 54,
58) sts across the edge of the armhole on the other side until you come to the underarm again
= 68 (72, 80, 84, 88, 96, 108, 116) sts total.
Place the BOR marker and continue working in the round.
Work decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts of round, ssk, k1 = 2 sts decreased.
Repeat decrease round on every 10 (9, 7, 7, 7, 6, 5, 4)th round 3 (5, 9, 9, 3, 3, 9, 21) more times and
then on every 9 (8, 6, 6, 6, 5, 4, 3)th round 7 (6, 5, 5, 12, 15, 12, 3) times = 46 (48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 64,
66) sts remain.
Work without decreases until the sleeve measures approximately 15” / 38 cm or 2” / 5 cm less
than desired length.
NECK RIBBING:
Join yarn at the beginning of back neck sts, on RS of work. Using the shorter, size US 4 / 3.5 mm
circular needle pick up and knit sts for ribbing as follows:
• 50 (50, 50, 50, 54, 54, 54, 54) sts across the back neck, 1 stitch for every CO-stitch +1 st on each
side to prevent gaps,
• 17 sts across the left front in approximate ratio of 3 sts for every 4 rows,
• 36 (36, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40, 40) sts across the middle front, 1 stitch for every CO-stitch,
• 17 sts across the right front in approximate ratio of 3 sts for every 4 rows
= 120 (120, 120, 120, 128, 128, 128, 128) sts total. If you can’t get the exact number of sts, just
make sure your stitch count is an even number.
Place the BOR marker and begin working in the round. Work in (k1, p1) ribbing for 2” / 5 cm.
Loosely bind off stitches. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing (at least 3 times the
circumference of the neck opening). Fold the ribbing in half and sew the bind off edge to the
wrong side of work as shown on the photo below. Make sure to keep the ribbing aligned.
FINISHING
Weave in the yarn ends. Place the sweater in lukewarm water and let it soak thoroughly. Gently
squeeze out the excess water. Place the sweater on a towel and roll in to remove further
moisture. Lay on a flat surface and let dry completely.
Knitting the two loops of a double stitch together as one (KDS, worked on RS): knit to the double
stitch and knit the two loops together.
Purling the two loops of a double stitch together as one (PDS, worked on WS): purl to the double
stitch and purl the two loops together.