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The Project Gutenberg eBook of The boy
mechanic, book 3
 This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United
States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away
or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License
included with this ebook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you
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laws of the country where you are located before using this
eBook.

Title: The boy mechanic, book 3

800 things for boys to do

Editor: H. H. Windsor

Release date: October 12, 2023 [eBook #71856]

Language: English

Original publication: Chicago: Popular Mechanics Co, 1919

Credits: Charlene Taylor, Harry Lamé and the Online Distributed

Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file
was produced from images generously made available
by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOY

MECHANIC, BOOK 3 ***
Please see the Transcriber’s Notes
at the end of this text.
New original cover art included with
this eBook is granted to the public
domain.
THE BOY MECHANIC
BOOK 3
See Page 86
 The
Boy Mechanic
BOOK 3

800 THINGS FOR BOYS TO

DO

HOW TO CONSTRUCT
ELECTRIC LOCOMOTIVE MODEL AND TRACK SYSTEM, BOYS’
MOTOR
CAR, PARCEL DELIVERY BICYCLE, AERIAL CABLEWAY, MINIA-
TURE TANK, SAILING CANOE, HOUSEBOAT, SUBMARINE
CAMERA, DIVING TOWER, HAMMOCKS, KITCHEN
FOR HIKERS, ICE YACHT

AND

HUNDREDS OF OTHER THINGS WHICH DELIGHT

EVERY BOY
WITH 802 ILLUSTRATIONS

COPYRIGHTED, 1919, BY H. H. WINDSOR

CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO.
PUBLISHERS
 Fig. 1 Fig. 2
SECTIONAL SIDE VIEW FRONT VIEW
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
PLAN BRAKE DETAIL
Fig. 5
DETAIL OF SUPPORT C
DETAIL OF STEERING GEAR
The General Arrangement of the Parts DETAIL OF SUPPORT D
is Shown in the Assembly Views, Figs. REAR-AXLE BRACKET E
1, 2, and 3. The Brake Detail, Fig. 4, Fig. 6
should be Considered with Fig. 9,
Shown Separately. The Detail
Construction of the Frame and Body
can be Readily Understood by
Referring to the Assembly Views in
Connection with Fig. 7
Fig. 7
DETAIL OF FRAME AND BODY
 A Boys’ Motor Car
HOMEMADE
by P.P. Avery

E ven though the home-built “bearcat” roadster, or other favorite

model, does not compare in every detail with the luxurious
manufactured cars, it has an individuality that puts it in a class by
itself. The amateur mechanic, or the ambitious boy, who is fairly
skilled with tools, can build at least the main parts for his own small
car, of the simple, practical design shown in the sketch and detailed
in the working drawings. If necessary, he can call more skilled
mechanics to his aid. A motorcycle engine, or other small gasoline
motor, is used for the power plant. The control mechanism of the
engine and the electrical connections are similar to those of a
motorcycle. They are installed to be controlled handily from the
driver’s seat. The car is built without springs, but these may be
included, if desired, or the necessary comfort provided—in part at
least—by a cushioned seat. Strong bicycle wheels are used, the 1¹⁄₂
by 28-in. size being suitable. The hood may be of wood, or of sheet
metal, built over a frame of strap iron. The top of the hood can be
lifted off, and the entire hood can also be removed, when repairs are
to be made. The tool box on the rear of the frame can be replaced by
a larger compartment, or rack, for transporting loads, or an extra
seat for a passenger.
 To Simplify This Small but Serviceable Motor Car for Construction by the
Young Mechanic, Only the Essential Parts are Considered. Other Useful
and Ornamental Features may be Added as the Skill and Means of the
Builder Make Possible

The construction may be begun with the chassis and the running
gear. Fit the wheels with ⁵⁄₈-in. axles, as shown in the assembly
views, Figs. 1, 2, and 3, and detailed in Fig. 4. Fit the ends of the
axles to the hubs of the wheels, providing the threaded ends with
lock nuts. Make the wooden supports for the frame, as detailed in
Fig. 6. The axles are fastened into half-round grooves, cut in the
bottoms of the supports, and secured by iron straps, as shown in
Fig. 4, at A. Make the sidepieces for the main frame 2¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₄ in.
thick, and 9 ft. 4 in. long, as detailed in Fig. 7. Mortise the supports
through the sidepieces, and bore the holes for the bolt fastenings
and braces. Glue the mortise-and-tenon joints before the bolts are
finally secured. Provide the bolts with washers, and lock the nuts
with additional jam nuts where needed. Keep the woodwork clean,
and apply a coat of linseed oil, so that dirt and grease cannot
penetrate readily.
Finish only the supporting structure of the chassis in the
preliminary woodwork. Set the front-axle and steering-rigging
supports C and D, and adjust the spacers F between them. Bore the
hole for the kingbolt, as detailed in Fig. 6, and fit the bevel gears and
the fifth wheel G, of ¹⁄₄-in. steel, into place, as shown in Fig. 5. The
gear H is bolted to the axle support. The pinion J is set on the end of
a short ³⁄₄-in. shaft. The latter passes through the support D, and is
fitted with washers and jam nuts, solidly, yet with sufficient play. A
bracket, K, of ¹⁄₄ by 1³⁄₄-in. strap iron, braces the shaft, as shown in
Fig. 3. The end of this short shaft is joined to one section of the
universal coupling, as shown, and, like the other half of the coupling,
is pinned with a ³⁄₁₆-in. riveted pin. The pinion is also pinned, and the
lower end of the kingbolt provided with a washer and nut, guarded by
a cotter pin. Suitable gears can be procured from old machinery. A
satisfactory set was obtained from an old differential of a well-known
small car.
 Fig. 8
Detail of the Motor Support: The Engine is Mounted on Reinforced Angle
Irons, and Secured by Clamps and a Supporting Band under the Crank Case

Before fitting the steering column into place, make the dashboard,
of ⁷⁄₈-in. oak, as shown in the assembly view, and in detail in Fig. 7. It
is 19¹⁄₂ in. high and 2 ft. 4 in. wide, and set on the frame and braced
to it with 4 by 4 by 1¹⁄₂-in. angle irons, ¹⁄₄ in. thick. Fit a ⁷⁄₈-in. strip of
wood around the edge of the dashboard, on the front side, as a rest
for the hood, as shown in Figs. 1 and 7, at L. A brass edging protects
the dashboard, and gives a neat appearance. Lay out carefully the
angle for the steering column, which is of ⁷⁄₈-in. shafting, so as to be
convenient for the driver. Mark the point at which it is to pass through
the dashboard, and reinforce the hole with an oak block, or an angle
flange, of iron or brass, such as is used on railings, or boat fittings. A
collar at the flange counteracts the downward pressure on the
steering post. The 12-in. steering wheel is set on the column by a
riveted pin.
The fitting of the engine may next be undertaken. The exact
position and method of setting the engine on the frame will depend
on the size and type. It should be placed as near the center as
possible, to give proper balance. The drawings show a common air-
cooled motor of the one-cylinder type. It is supported, as shown in
Figs. 1 and 3 and detailed in Fig. 8. Two iron strips, B, riveted to 1¹⁄₂
by 1¹⁄₂-in. angle irons, extend across the main frame, and support
the engine by means of bolts and steel clamps, designed to suit the
engine. Cross strips of iron steady the engine, and the clamps are
bolted to the crank case. The center clamp is a band that passes
under the crank case.
The engine is set so that the crankshaft extends across the main
frame. Other methods may be devised for special motors, and the
power transmission changed correspondingly. One end of the
crankshaft is extended beyond the right side of the frame, as shown
in Fig. 3. This extension is connected to the shaft by means of an
ordinary setscrew collar coupling. A block M, Figs. 3 and 7, is bolted
to the frame, and a section of heavy brass pipe fitted as a bearing.
The ignition and oiling systems, carburetor, and other details of the
engine control and allied mechanism, are the same as those used on
the motorcycle engine originally, fitted up as required. The oil tank is
made of a strong can, mounted on the dashboard, as shown in Figs.
1 and 2. It is connected with the crank case by copper tubing. A cut-
out switch for the ignition system is mounted on the dashboard. The
controls used for the engine of the motorcycle can be extended with
light iron rods, and the control handles mounted on the dashboard or
in other convenient position. The throttle can be mounted on the
steering column by fitting an iron pipe around the post and mounting
this pipe in the angle flange at the dashboard. A foot accelerator may
also be used, suitable mountings and pedal connections being
installed at the floor.
In setting the gasoline tank, make only as much of the body
woodwork as is necessary to support it, as shown in Figs. 1, 3, and
7. The tank may be made of a can, properly fitted, and heavy
enough, as determined by comparison with gasoline tanks in
commercial cars. The feed is through a copper tube, as shown in
Fig. 1. A small venthole, to guard against a vacuum in the tank,
should be made in the cap. The muffler from a motorcycle is used,
fitted with a longer pipe, and suspended from the side of the frame.
The transmission of the power from the motor shaft to the right
rear wheel is accomplished by means of a leather motorcycle belt,
made by fitting leather washers close together over a bicycle chain,
oiling the washers with neat’s-foot oil. A grooved iron pulley is fitted
on the end of the motor shaft, and a grooved pulley rim on the rear
wheel, as shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and detailed in Fig. 4. The motor is
started by means of a crank, and the belt drawn up gradually, by the
action of a clutch lever and its idler, detailed in Fig. 9. The clutch
lever is forged, as shown, and fitted with a ratchet lever, N, and
ratchet quadrant, O. The idler holds the belt to the tension desired,
giving considerable flexibility of speed.
The brake is shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and detailed in Figs. 4 and 9.
The fittings on the rear wheel and axle are made of wood, and
bolted, with a tension spring, as shown. The brake drum is supported
on iron bands, riveted to the wheel, and to the pulley rim. The brake
arm is connected to the brake wheel by a flexible wire. When the
pedal is forced down, the wire is wound on the brake wheel, thus
permitting of adjustment. The pedal is of iron and fixed on its shaft
with a setscrew. An iron pipe is used as a casing for the central
shaft, the shaft carrying the clutch lever, and the pipe carrying the
brake pedal and the brake wheel. The quadrant O is mounted on a
block, fastened to the main frame. The central shaft is carried in
wooden blocks, with iron caps. A catch of strap iron can be fitted on
the floor, to engage the pedal, and lock the brake when desired.