FF

Session 4

Classification of Textile Yarns

 Yarn
The process of converting fibers into yarn is
called as spinning.

Group of fibers arranged in parallel to form a

continuous strand with twist/ without twist.

 Yarns play an important role in the fabric

manufacturing process since a majority of the
textile materials are constructed with yarns.
 Yarns are also used for products such as
sewing and embroidery thread, string, and
rope.

 Yarns are produced in various sizes and

textures, and also vary in other
characteristics.

 Performance, end use, and fabric care are

affected by these yarn characteristics.
 Yarn Twist
 Number of turns given to the yarns to hold
the fibers together in the vertical direction

 Change in the level of twist also changes

many yarn properties, such as strength and
softness.

 To insert a twist into a length of yarn, one

end of the yarn should be rotated relative
to the other end.
Amount of twist defines as TPI (Twist per
Inch)

Twist direction can be ‘S’ or ‘Z’ - direction of

twist affects the surface appearance and
strength of fabrics
 This Figure shows two identical twill-weave fabrics
with the warp yarn of different twist direction.

Twill d ire c tion

S twist Z twist

(A ) (B )
(S ho r t a r ro ws i nd ica te dire c tio n o f lig ht
re fle c te d fro m the wa rp a nd we ft ya r ns )
 Fabric A will be more lustrous than fabric B, because light
reflected by fibres in the warp and weft is in the same
direction.

 Fabric A will be softer while fabric B firmer, because in

Fabric B, the surface fibres on the warp and weft in the
region of contact are aligned in the same direction and they
may ‘get stuck’ inside each other and reduce the mobility of
the intersection.

 Whereas for fabric A, the surface fibres on the warp and

weft in the region of contact are crossed over, and they can
move about easily. The freedom of movement at the yarn
intersections is the key for fabric softness.
 Classification of Yarns
Spun Yarn

Filament Yarns
 Spun Yarns
Spun yarns are composed of short staple
fibres, or long filament fibers that have been
cut into short staple fibres.
Most natural fibres are staple fibres including
cotton, wool, and flax (linen).
 The staple fibers are twisted together to form
spun yarns.
 Spun yarns may contain fibers of the same
type or a blend of different fibers.
• Finer, longer, smoother, better quality cotton
yarns, known as combed cotton yarns, are
produced by combing the fibers prior to
spinning. Uncombed cotton yarns known as
carded yarns.

• Similarly, wool yarns made by finer, longer

wool are known as worsted yarns. Lower
quality wool yarns are known as woollen
yarns.
 Filament Yarns
 Filament fibres can be monofilament, which is a
single continuous stand of fibre, or they can be
twisted together to form multifilament yarns.

 All synthetic and man-made fibers like polyester,

viscose are filament fibers. Silk is the only natural
filament fiber.

 A mono-filament yarn of a given diameter is stiffer

and less flexible than a multi-filament yarn of same
diameter.
Comparison of Spun and Filament Yarns

Basis of difference Spun yarn Filament yarn

Uniformity Less uniform More uniform

Smoothness and Less smooth and Smoother and

Lustre duller lustrous

Strength Low strength Stronger

Requirement of High twist Low twist

Twist
 Classification of Yarns

Yarns

Novelty or
Simple Compound
complex
 1. Simple Yarns
 Simple yarns are characterized by uniform size and regular
surface.

 They can be broadly divided into single, ply, cord, and rope
yarns.

 Single yarn is the simplest type of yarn. It is commonly

produced by twisting together staple or filament fibers.

 Ply yarns are produced by twisting two or more single yarns.

Each strand of single yarn is referred to as a ply.

 Cord/ cabled yarns are produced by twisting two or more ply

yarns.

 Rope yarns are produced by twisting two or more cord yarns.

Simple yarn
2. Novelty/ fancy yarns
Fancy Fabrics
Fancy Garments
 Novelty/ fancy yarns
 Novelty yarns, typically made of two or more stands,
are produced to provide decorative surface effects.
 Based on the purpose, each strand is referred to as
base/core, effect, or binder.
 The base/core strand provides the structure and
strength.
 The effect strand creates decorative detail such as
knots and loops.
 The binder is used to tie the effect yarn to the base
yarn if binding is necessary.
Novelty Yarns
 Slub yarns
 Slub yarns can be either single or ply yarns. These yarns are
characterized by the soft bulky area that is spun at regular or
irregular intervals.
 Nub, knot, and spot yarns
 Nub, knot, and spot yarns are ply yarns in which the effect
yarn is twisted around the base yarn to produce a thicker
area or a bump.
Flock/flake yarns
 Bouclé and loop yarns
 Bouclé and loop yarns are ply yarns where the effect yarn is
looped around the base or core yarn and tied with a binder
yarn.
 Spiral and corkscrew yarns
 Spiral and corkscrew yarns are ply yarns in which one ply is soft
and thick and the other is fine.
 Chenille yarn
 A core of two yarns plied together and firmly holding short
tufts of soft-twisted yarn between the twist along the length.
The result is a yarn with a velvet-like or pile surface.
 3. Composite/ compound yarns
 Composite yarns are made of
two or more strands. The
center or core is formed by
one or more strands. The
other strand(s) is (are)
wrapped around the core so
that the core is not visible
from the outside.

 Covered yarns or core spun

yarns are created by twisting
staple fibers around a central
filament core to fulfil the
required purpose.
Textured Yarn
 Sewing Threads
 Sewing threads used to form stitches in fabrics.

 They are made by the same raw material which used

to make yarns.

 Sewing thread usually is less than 1/1000th of the

weight of an apparel item, and yet it may carry more
than one half the responsibility for its performance.

 Different types and varieties of sewing threads are

available.
 Major Sewing threads

Cotton

Viscose

Nylon

Polyester
 Properties of sewing threads

High bending stability

Good strength

Limited elongation

Good dimensional stability

Good abrasion resistance