Received: 11 October 2023 | Revised: 3 February 2024 | Accepted: 16 February 2024

DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16255

ORIGINAL ARTICLE

Formulation and evaluation of antioxidant and antibacterial

activity of a peel-­off facial masks moisturizer containing
curcumin and Rosa Damascena extract

Mohammad Mehdi Nemati MS1 | Mehdi Abedi PhD1 | Younes Ghasemi PhD1,2 |
Hajar Ashrafi PhD3 | Mobin Haghdel PhD4

1
Pharmaceutical Sciences Research
Center, Shiraz University of Medical
Sciences, Shiraz, Iran
2
Department of Pharmaceutical
Biotechnology, Shiraz University of
Medical Sciences, Shiraz, Iran
3
Department of Pharmaceutics, School of
Pharmacy, Shiraz University of Medical
Sciences, Shiraz, Iran
4
Department of Tissue Engineering,
School of Advanced Medical Sciences and
Technologies, Shiraz University of Medical
Sciences, Shiraz, Iran
Correspondence
Mehdi Abedi, Pharmaceutical Sciences
Research Center, Shiraz University of
Medical Sciences, Shiraz, Iran.
Email: mehdi.abedi.a@gmail.com
Younes Ghasemi, Department of
Pharmaceutical Biotechnology and
Pharmaceutical Sciences Research Center,
School of Pharmacy, Shiraz University of
Medical Sciences, Shiraz, Iran.
Email: ghasemiy@sums.ac.ir
Abstract
Background: Acne is a common skin issue that typically occurs during adolescence. It
causes long-­lasting redness and swelling in the skin. An alternative approach to treat-
ing acne could involve using a cosmetic facial mask containing herbal ingredients such
as Curcumin and Rosa Damascena extract for its antibacterial properties.
Aims: This study aims to create and try out a peel-­off mask gel made from Curcumin
and R. Damascena extract. This gel is intended to have the ability to kill bacteria such
as Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Propionibacterium acnes and remove
dead cells from the skin surface.
Methods: The peel-­off mask was made using polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) in 8% and 10%
as solidifier. The evaluation of peel-­off masks comprises the examination of physi-
ochemical and mechanical aspects. Furthermore, their longevity, effectiveness, and
antibacterial properties are also considered.
Results: The white color, pleasant smell, and soft texture were the defining features
of the peel-­off gel mask. The changes in PVA affect the pH level, thickness, and how
quickly the peel-­off mask dries. The stability test found that the peel-­off mask had no
significant physical changes when exposed to freezing and thawing. However, there
were some differences in color and separation when using the real-­time method. A
prepared peel-­off mask containing 10% PVA and curcumin works best against P. acne.
The amount of PVA in the formula affected the physical and chemical qualities, but it
did not impact on the antibacterial abilities of the peel-­off mask gel. The best formula
that gives the best results uses 10% PVA + curcumin.
Conclusions: Using the Curcumin and R. Damascena extract in the creation of the
peel-­off mask gel ensures its efficacy and safety for skin application.

KEYWORDS
anti-­acne mask, curcumin face mask, peel-­off face mask, R. Damascena face mask

This is an open access article under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits use, distribution and reproduction in any medium,
provided the original work is properly cited.
© 2024 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024;00:1–14.  wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jocd | 1

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2 NEMATI et al.
TA B L E 1 Peel-­off gel mask composition.
Ingredient F1 F2
PVA 8 10
PVP 1 2
Ethanol 5 1
Sweet coconut oil 0.1 0.1
Glycerin 1 1
Propylene glycol 2 2
Curcumin 0.02 0.02
R. Damascena extract 5 5
Aqua Until 100% Until 100%
1 | I NTRO D U C TI O N
A type of skin care product called a peel-­off mask is made of a gel
that, when applied to the skin, creates a thin, transparent, malleable
layer that is elastic. After a brief drying period, the skin can be easily
1
peeled off. Using peel-­off face masks can help improve the condi-
tion of the facial skin by reducing wrinkles, signs of aging, and acne.
They can also help to minimize the size of shrink pores. 2 Also, these
3
formulations make skin feel clean and firm. It also slightly moistur-
izes and improves the impact of the active ingredients on the outer
covering of the body, mainly due to the barrier created by the plastic
3
layer.
Peel-­off masks are a good option for adding active ingredients
into a plastic film that is made to be easily removed without leav-
ing any residue.4 Plants include an enormous number of physio-
logically active chemicals that have a substantial impact on human
5
skin.
One of the most significant Rosaceae family flower species is
Rosa Damascena. R. Damascena is an attractive shrub, and in addition
to its fragrance, it has been shown to possess many pharmacolog-
ical characteristics such as antioxidant, antidiabetic, antibacterial,
wound healing, anti-­HIV, hypnotic, antitussive, hypnotic, skin health,
and relaxing effects on tracheal chains.6 Kumar et al. discovered
phenolic compounds in an ethanolic extract of R. Damascena. They
compare the antioxidant activity of this extract with L-­ascorbic acid
as a conventional antioxidant. According to this study, R. Damascena
possesses excellent antioxidant activity.7 Also, three flavonol glyco-
sides in the ethanolic extract have antioxidant activity. An in-­vivo
investigation assessed R. Damascene's antioxidant activity and inhib-
itory effect on lipid oxidation. The findings revealed that the plant
has powerful antioxidant and lipid peroxidation inhibitory properties
equivalent to tocopherol, indicating that it might be used as a medic-
inal source to treat and prevent numerous free radical disorders.8
R. Damascena extract can reduce inflammation in the body.
The effect of extracting R. Damascena in alcohol showed that R.
Damascena could help reduce inflammation caused by carrageenan
in rats. Also, R. Damascena has vitamin C, which helps fight against
inflammation and harmful substances in our body.9–11 Plus, some
literate reports that R. Damascena substitute consists of Bisabolol
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F3 F4
8 10
1 2
1 5
0.1 0.1
1 1
2 2
0 0
5 5
Until 100% Until 100%
and Farnesol Fragrances used as a moisturizing agent in skincare
and cosmetic products.12–14 In addition, research has proven that R.
Damascena can fight against many different types of microorgan-
isms, such as Staphylococcus aureus,15 Escherichia coli, Ps. Aeruginosa,
Candida albicans16,17 and etc.18 This substance has a strong ability to
kill bacteria due to the large amount of phenylethyl alcohol it con-
tains. R. Damascena has numerous recommendations for eliminating
acne.19,20 This condition is caused by too-­active oils and worsened
by bacterial infections like Propionibacterium acnes. P. acne lives in
our hair follicles and proliferates. They break down the natural oil in
our skin, creating substances that can cause irritation and likely lead
to inflammation. 21
Like R. Damascena, curcumin is known for its many health ben-
efits, such as fighting against diseases, reducing inflammation, pre-
venting cancer and diabetes, fighting against bacteria, fungus, and
viruses, healing ulcers, and preventing blood clotting. 22,23
Lima and colleagues studied how curcumin can help slow down
the aging process. Curcumin can cause cellular stress responses and
trigger the body's antioxidant defenses. It could be an excellent way
to fight aging, as shown in a study on human skin cells. 24 Research
shows that using curcumin orally or on the skin can help prevent and
treat skin problems like early aging, dermatitis, wounds, swelling,
and psoriasis.14
In the present study, we prepare and test a peel-­off face
mask gel using different amounts of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA),
Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), curcumin, and R. Damascena extract.
These ingredients have antibacterial properties and could be used
instead of other facial skin care products.
2 | M ATE R I A L S A N D M E TH O DS
2.1 | Rose Damascena extract
To extract R. Damascena, 50 g of dry R. Damascena was powdered by
mortar and pestle and then placed in a Soxhlet extractor in water/
ethanol 1/1 solvent. The solvent was removed using a rotary evapo-
rator at 80°C to obtain a crude extract and freeze-­dried to obtain a
finely extracted powder.

NEMATI et al.
2.2 | Peel-­off mask gel preparation
The peel-­off facial mask with curcumin and R. Damascena extract
was formulated according to the formula presented in Table 1. For
the preparation of peel-­off gel, PVA was dissolved in 70°C water
under stirring conditions for 2 h. Then PVP dissolved in ethanol/glyc-
erin solution containing curcumin was added to the above mixture
and mixed until a homogenous mixture was provided. R. Damascena
extract, sweet coconut oil, and Propylene glycol were added to the
mixture, respectively, and after each step, stirred until homogenous.
2.3 | Organoleptic
An organoleptic test examined the prepared peel-­off gel masks' ap-
pearance, aroma, and color.
2.4 | Homogeneity
Testing for homogeneity looks at how evenly distributed and homog-
enous the particles are on a formulation. In each formula's prepara-
tion for a gel peel-­off mask, the homogeneity test results show that
solid particles are not present before and after freeze–thaw on day
one, and the 30th homogeneity of the formulation was evaluated.
2.5 | Formulation pH
The acidity of the formulation is an essential parameter for skin care
products because skin pH is one of the most influential parameters
for maintaining the integrity of the stratum corneum. Also, changes
in skin pH significantly impact barrier permeability and microbiome
25
content, leading to skin disorders and diseases. Therefore, pH for-
mulation change was measured for four formations during 30 days. In
addition, the pH change after frizz-­thaw was evaluated for 30 days.
2.6 | Drying time and thickness film
For evaluation formulations drying time, 2 g prepared gel on the 1st
and 30th day after preparation was located on a 60 × 60 cm glass
plate and spread flat. The glass plate was incubated at 37° until the
gel was dry and easily peeled off as a film layer. The formulation was
checked every 2 min, and the test ended when the mask was fully
dry. The outcome was an average of three tests. The drying time and
final film thickness were determined using digital caliper. 26
2.7 | Spreadability test
To conduct the coverage test, 5 g of gel was placed on a glass plate
and covered with a glass plate up to a weight of 125 g. Following a
|
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3
F I G U R E 1 Three sites (3.0 cm × 3.0 cm) of application. S1, S2,
and S3 represent the points on which the peeling mask was tested.
minute, the diameter is measured. Coating tests were assessed 1 and
30 days after formulation. 27 In addition, after freeze–thaw, spread
capability evaluated 1 and 30 days after the 6-­cycle freeze-­thaw.
2.8 | Rheological behavior analysis
The rheological properties were assessed on a cone and plate
rheometer (Brookfield®) at 25°C. Samples were appropriately ar-
ranged to fill the space between the trays. This equipment makes it
possible to study the flow and deformation of matter, measure the
thixotropy and behavior of non-­Newtonian fluids under various con-
ditions, and establish a relationship between deformation, force, and
time. Evaluation of the rheological properties of semi-­solid formula-
tions is essential to evaluate their quality and stability.
2.9 | Viscosity measurement
A formulation's viscosity reveals how difficult it is to flow through
it. For instance, the formulation's flow rate decreases as viscosity
increases. The test was done by putting the spindle in the gel mask
and doing the test. A formulation's viscosity was measured using a
machine called a Brookfield viscometer. The machine was set to ro-
tate at 10 turns per minute using a specific part called spindle num-
ber 64. 28
2.10 | Irritation test
Ethical approval for the experimental procedure's irritation test-
ing was obtained from the University Ethics Committee. Irritating
and hypersensitivity testing was performed on 3 lateral sites,
as displayed in Figure 1, of the inner arm of 10 healthy female
 |
4 NEMATI et al.
volunteers between 18 and 24 years old. Each formulation was
tested on 10 volunteers on 3 points of their arms. Every volunteer
tested all formulations. After testing formulation 1, formulation 1
was removed, and, with a 2-­day interval, we tested another for-
mulation. Volunteers must be free of skin allergy symptoms (e.g.,
redness, hives, burning, itching, rash, and swelling), lesions, scars,
or tattoos at the test site and take no anti-­inflammatory drugs with
skin side effects such as nonsteroidal anti-­inflammatory drugs. 29
After cleaning the inner surface of the arm with 70% alcohol, 1 g of
mask formulation was applied to the cleaned surface in the area of
3 cm × 3 cm, then it was taken off and changes to the skin, such as
itching, redness, and swelling, are checked. Double distilled water
served as the negative control, while 0.5% SDS was used as the
positive controls. 30
2.11 | Corneometer and sebum measurements
The basis of Corneometer® measurements is the capacitance of
a dielectric medium. In this case, it is the stratum corneum of the
skin. The dielectric constant and sebum content of the skin is de-
termined using the Multi Probe Adapter by skin detector analyzer
(Skin pH Meter PH900 Sebumeter SM810 Corneometer CM825,
Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, model: Kombi SM/CM 825/
pH). The dielectric constant of skin changes with humidity. The
moisture and sebum content results are given in percent units rang-
ing from 0.00% (dehydrated) to 100% (very wet).31 All the measure-
ments were done in a room and the volunteers rested for 30 min
before the tests. After removing the mask, the skin analysis was
done. Three repeated measurements were performed at each test
site and a mean was calculated.
2.12 | Microbiological count
2.12.1 | Total aerobic mesophyll bacteria count
1 mL of the prepared gel was spread on PCC18 agar and kept for
3 days at 32°C. Colonies must be counted and documented as the
number of colony-­forming units (CFU) per gram of mesophilic aero-
bic plate count material.32
2.12.2 | E. coli count
1 mL of the mask solution was mixed with water and filtered
through a thin membrane. The membrane is then placed on an E.
coli-­selective LB Broth medium for 24 h. Because the bacteria stay
on the filter's surface, they grow and create a noticeable group of
bacteria. The CFU is the number of colonies that are counted and
recorded. 33
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2.12.3 | Pseudomonas aeruginosa count
The formulation was diluted 10 times, seeded on agar plates con-
taining the LB broth and incubate for 48 h at 37°C The colonies cal-
culate the CFU/mL.34
2.12.4 | Staphylococcus aureus count
Staphylococcus aureus dilute formulation 10 times and spread on
dried Baird Parker agar and incubate for 48 h at 37°C, and the colo-
nies calculate the CFU/mL.35,36
2.12.5 | Total yeast and mold count
Dilute formulation 10 times and spread it on dried Baird Parker agar,
and incubate for 5 days at 22°C. The colonies was counted.37
2.13 | Bacterial culture
A total of three pathogenic microbial strains were used in the study
the bacteria growth on appropriate media to an appropriate OD.
2.14 | Antibacterial activity test on peel-­off
gel mask
This formulation's antibacterial efficacy was assessed against E. coli
ATCC 8739 and S. aureus ATCC 6538P and P. acnes using the ordi-
nary Nathan's agar well diffusion (NAWD) technique.
2.14.1 | E. coli and S. aureus antimicrobial activity
The antimicrobial activity of the prepared formulation against
E. coli and S. aureus was done with a similar procedure. Briefly,
Cultures were inoculated with E. coli or S. aureus bacteria and incu-
bated overnight at 37°C to adjust turbidity to a McFarland stand-
ard of 0.5 and final inoculum levels of 1.5 × 10 8 and 5 × 10 8 CFU/
mL. A plate with 6 mm diameter wells was created. The agar plate's
wells were prepared with a drill. A confluent lawn of bacterial
growth was created by spreading 100 μL of 16–18 h old bacterial
culture onto an agar plate. Each plate also has a center well to
hold the curcumin-­f ree control formulation. At 37°C for 24 h, all
plates were incubated. The plates were examined for the develop-
ment of clear zones around the wells, consistent with the tested
compounds' antibacterial activity. The zone of inhibition (ZOI) was
seen and measured in millimeters. We calculated the ZOI's aver-
age size. 38

NEMATI et al.
2.14.2 | Propionibacterium acnes
antimicrobial activity
Propionibacterium acnes ATCC 6919 is incubated in blood agar media
for 72 h under anaerobic condition and then the agar plate surface
is inoculated by spreading a volume of the microbial inoculum over
the entire agar surface. Turbidity cells McFarland and final inoculum
levels of 1.5 × 10 8 and 5 × 10 8 CFU/mL. A 6 mm diameter hole is then
aseptically drilled with a sterile cork drill and 100 μL of our prepara-
tion is introduced into the well, incubated for 24 h at 37°C and deter-
mined the inhibition zone.39
2.15 | Antioxidant activity
Various methods have been employed to examine and compare
the antioxidant properties of natural substances. The molecule
2,2-­Diphenyl-­1-­picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) is frequently utilized in sci-
entific research to examine antioxidants that react slowly with the
test molecules and result in the creation of a colored reagent that
is quantified by spectrophotometer at 517 nm. Briefly, a 0.1 mM
methanolic solution of DPPH was prepared and 1.8 mL of this solu-
tion was added to 0.2 mL of a solution of different concentrations of
F1, F2, F3, F4, curcumin, and R. damascena in a 24-­well plate. After
shaking and incubation in the dark for 30 min, absorbance was meas-
ured at 517 nm. The percent radical scavenging activity (%RSA) was
calculated using the following formula:
[ The results of the characterization prepared formulations are sum-
%RSA = (Absorbance of control
] marized in Table 2, which is discussed in the following.
− Absorbance of sample)∕Absorbance of control × 100.
2.16 | Pell off performance
To evaluate the prepared formulation, a small area of skin was cov-
ered by blue ink, and performance of mask in ink peel-­off was stud-
ied. This experiment was designed only to show the effectiveness
of the formulated mask in removing the surface layers or impurities
stuck to the skin's outer surface. After drying, mask and skin under
mask treatment were imaged by optical microscopy.
2.17 | Curcumin skin diffusion in-­vitro
The effect of these formulations on skin permeability in vitro was
investigated using the Franz diffusion cell apparatus. By Franz
cell equipment, the transmittance of curcumin through the skin
was tested. The Franz cell's surface area was 0.785 cm2 , and the
compartments could hold about 10 mL of liquid. The entire thick-
ness of the skin from the mice's abdomen was placed between
two sections, one for the donor and one for the receiver. The out-
ermost layer of the skin facing the donor compartment. The given
liquid contained 1 mL of curcumin mixed with other substances.
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5
The liquid that received the molecules had a pH of 6.5 and con-
tained 0.5% tween-­8 0 and 20% ethanol in phosphate-­b uffered sa-
line (PBS), to maintain the sink condition.40 The stirring speed and
temperature were maintained at 400 rpm and 37°C. After 1 h, the
substance that received the drug was taken out and analyzed for
curcumin content using a UV–VIS spectrophotometer.
2.18 | Statistical analysis
Two-­way ANOVA Tukey's multiple comparisons test was performed
to determine which means amongst a set of means differ from the
rest.
3 | R E S U LT S
3.1 | Extraction result
The R. Damascena extraction process was repeated three times, and
the final dry product showed a yield of 0.25 ± 0.06%, with a light pink
color, which was similar to results reported by other researchers.41
3.2 | Physiochemical characteristics of peel-­off
mask formula
3.2.1 | Organoleptic property and homogeneity
The organoleptic outcomes from the four peel-­off gel mask formula-
tions are essentially the same, that is, dark brown color, R. Damascena
aroma, semi-­solid form, homogeneous, and without any aggregate or
sedimentation. The different viscosities are thick, very thick, barely
foamy, and dilute, caused by the percentage of PVA used. All formu-
lations had a homogeneous appearance without any sedimentation
on the first day of preparations in the examined temperate (5, 10,
and 25°C).
3.2.2 | pH test
These results showed that the peel-­off mask made from R.
Damascena extract has a pH level that matches the skin's pH level,
which is between 4.5 and 5.42 Therefore, to ensure the pH level
does not change during storage for 30 days, it is essential to check
for any free fatty acids in the R. Damascena extract or other bioac-
tive compounds that could oxidize when exposed to light or tem-
peratures.43,44 However, the pH of the peel-­off mask did not change
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6 NEMATI et al.

TA B L E 2 Summary of assessment of physical characteristics of peel-­off gel masks.

Characteristic Day F1 F2 F3 F4

Organoleptic 1 Dark brown color, rose Dark brown color, Dark brown color, Dark brown color, rose flower
flower aroma, semi solid rose flower rose flower aroma, semi solid
aroma, semi solid aroma, semi
solid
30 Dark brown color, rose Dark brown color, Dark brown color, Dark brown color, rose flower
flower aroma, semi solid rose flower rose flower aroma, semi solid
aroma, semi solid aroma, semi
solid
Applicability 1 5 4 5 4
30 5 4 5 4
Homogeneity 1 Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous
30 Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous
pH 1 4.8 4.4 4.6 4.3
30 4.7 4.4 4.4 4.4
pH after 1 4.9 4.7 5.0 4.1
freeze-­thaw 30 5.1 4.7 5.2 4.6
Film thickness (mm) 1 0.21 0.31 0.21 0.28
30 0.22 0.29 0.23 0.32
Dying time (min) 1 25 28 33 25
30 23 29 32 24
Spreading power 1 5.6 4.5 5.1 4.3
(cm) 30 5.7 4.4 5.2 4.2
Spreading 1 5.4 4.1 5.5 4.0
Power after freeze– 30 5.3 4.2 6.27 4.4
thaw (cm)
Sedimentation 1 No No No No
5°C No No No No
10°C No No No No
25°C 30 Minor Minor Minor Minor
Minor Minor No No
Minor No No No
Freeze–thaw 1 No No Minor No
Sedimentation 30 Minor Minor Minor Minor
Viscosity (cps) 1 2250 7520 2450 7894
30 2261 7413 2607 7954
Irritation test 1 No 10% redness No 10% redness
30 No 15% redness No 20% redness

significantly over 30 days. Although the pH of the formulations has
increased slightly after the 6-­cycle freeze–thaw, it is still in the ap-
propriate range of 4.5–5 for the skin.
3.2.3 | Film thickness and drying time
drying time was for F1 and F4 with 5% w/w ethanol. The masks did
not exhibit any signs of tearing or cracking while being peeled. The
film thickness of all prepared formulations after drying was around
2–3 mm, and the formulation with a higher portion of polymeric ma-
terial showed a higher film thickness.

A test of the film drying time was performed to determine how long
a peel-­off mask gel formulation needs to dry and form a film on
the skin surface. Peel-­off mask gels should dry in 15–30 min at the
most. Table 2, presents the drying time results, the gel layer dries
more quickly when formulated with a high PVA of 10% w/w than
when formulated with a low PVA of 8% w/w concentration. The best
3.2.4 | Spreadability test
The size of the area that the anti-­acne formulas covered ranged from
5.6 to 4.4 cm. Other researchers also confirmed that the mask can
hold between 5 and 7 cm. When the gel covers the skin's surface
with a thick film, spreading the gel becomes hard for volunteers.

NEMATI et al.
However, the formula still has much water in it, which can make it
take longer for the peel-­off mask to dry and create a solid layer, simi-
lar to other studies.45,46
3.2.5 | Stability evaluation
After 1 month, some scientific factors were checked to see if the mixes
were starting to become unstable in different situations. The formulas
worked well when kept dark place at room temperature or even colder.
They did not break down or change in any way. However, when the
formulas were kept in a standard room with sunlight (around 22°C),
they were not as effective and took longer to dry. When things are
exposed to sunlight, they can become hotter or more relaxed. If some-
thing has water in it, sunlight can make the water evaporate faster and
make the thing dry out faster. It can make the thing stronger because
the ingredients become concentrated. The mixture was thick because
it was very concentrated, which made it harder to use. In addition, the
stability of the formulations was tested by freezing and thawing them
6-­times to check if they became unstable in very cold (−80°C) and hot
(60°C) conditions. The findings are displayed in Table 2. The experi-
ments showed -­no instability in the optimized mixtures at very hot
or cold temperatures (between −80 and 60°C) for 6-­cycles. It means
the mixtures organoleptic characterize, acidity level and spread power
remained unchanged after freeze–thaw. However, some sedimenta-
tion was observed in the freeze–thawed gel after 30 days. The analysis
revealed that the four prepared formulations are homogeneous with
evenly dispersed active ingredients.
3.2.6 | Viscosity
Viscosity testing is performed to determine the thickness of the for-
mulation. Increasing the concentrations of gelling agents and mois-
turizers impact on the viscosity of gels.
3.2.7 | Rheological evaluation
The study of rheology is the flow and deformation of fluid when sub-
47
jected to a mechanical force. There are two main groups of fluids.
There are two types of fluids: Newtonian and non-­Newtonian. The
force applied is directly proportional to fluid viscosity in Newtonian
fluids. Therefore, the fluid's resistance to flow remains constant re-
gardless of the force applied. However, non-­Newtonian fluids have
a relationship between the viscosity and the force applied, which is
not straight or predictable.47 Non-­Newtonian fluid can be classified
into Thixotropic (Viscosity reduces with time due to stress) and rhe-
opectic (Viscosity rises over time due to stress). Pseudoplastic fluid
is a common type of non-­Newtonian fluid in which the viscosity of a
fluid decreases as the rate at which it is sheared increases. It is called
shear-­thinning fluid. Shear thinning fluids have a consistent thickness
or viscosity or a flat zero thickness at prolonged or no movement.
|
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7
Nevertheless, when there is a lot of force or stress applied, the
thickness of the liquid can go down a lot. It shows that the force
makes the liquid thinner.47 For instance, when polymer melts and
solutions flow, the polymer chains become less tangled, causing
them to become thinner. Large polymers are always intertwined
and arranged randomly when not moving. When there is a strong
enough force pushing on them, they start to separate from each
other. Therefore, it makes the liquid less thick. If the thickness of
a substance becomes thinner over time, it is called thixotropic.
Based on the rheometer diagram illustrated in Figure 2, our for-
mulation is a non-­Newtonian fluid and shows pseudoplastic behav-
ior and thixotropic properties.
3.2.8 | Moisture and sebum
A peel-­off mask can fix and make skin fresher and tighter, clean
out pores, remove dirt from the skin, make skin more moistur-
ized, improve blood flow, increase the activity of skin cells, get
rid of dead skin cells, make skin softer, and give the skin some
nutrients.4,48 Result of moist and sebum content on the skin is
shown in Figure 3. Based on the results of comparing the impor-
tance levels, it was found that there was a significant difference
between formulations. The formulations with lower ethanol con-
centrations were discovered to be more effective in moisturizing
the skin's surface layers. Peel-­off masks promote an increase in
skin moisture, possibly by covering, as only this effect can cause
an increase in the water concentration in the skin, as curcumin,
present in F1 and F2 formula, did not show a significant effect
on water content because F1 and F2 which consist curcumin had
minimum and maximum moister content in skin, respectively. In
addition, the prepared peel-­off mask significantly reduced the
sebum content of the external layer of skin compared to the con-
trol group.
3.3 | Microorganism evaluation
Most cosmetics have a lot of water and nutrients, making them a
suitable environment for many microorganisms to live and grow.49
Cosmetics that contain dangerous microorganisms may not be as
safe to use and may even make users ill.50 While it is not very com-
mon for cosmetics to be contaminated and cause safety risks, there
are still instances where products need to be recalled worldwide
due to contamination with microbes.51 Even though cosmetics don't
have to be completely germ-­free, it is essential to make ensure they
are safe for customers after being sold. To prevent the growth of
bacteria in cosmetics, companies test them to make ensure they will
last a long time without getting contaminated. However, we cannot
guarantee that the preservation system of cosmetics will be effec-
tive at the current time. However, it can be difficult because there
is a risk of microorganisms spreading from things around it, like ob-
jects, tools, or the people making it.
 |

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8 NEMATI et al.

The result of the mask microbial evaluation is presented in
Table 3. Aerobic microbial available in the prepared formulation
were less than 10 CFU.
3.4 | Antioxidant activity evaluation
The antioxidant potential of F1, F2, F3, F4, Curcumin, R. damascene
extract, PVA and PVP 1 mg/mL concentrations was evaluated by
DPPH radical scavenging antioxidant (Figure 4). PVA and PVP ex-
hibited low radical scavenging activity. At the same time, F1, F2,
F3, F4, Curcumin and R. damascene extract effectively scavenged
DPPH free radicals. The percentage of DPPH radical scavenging
activity of F1, F2, F3, F4, Curcumin, R. damascene extract, PVA and
PVP was found at 87%, 81%, 44%, 39%, 53%, 67%, 6%, and 12%,
respectively. When the Curcumin and R. damascene mixture was
used in prepared formulations, scavenging activity was significantly
improved.

F I G U R E 2 Shear stress and viscosity as a function of shear rate for (A) F1 and (B) F2 formulation.

F I G U R E 3 (A) Moisture and (B) oil content of skin after uses different formulation. NS, not significant. *p value ≤0.5, **p value ≤0.01, ***p
value ≤0.001, and ****p value ≤0.0001.

TA B L E 3 Microbial count (CFU) result.

Microorganism Mesophyll bacteria E. coli Pseudomonas aeruginosa S. aureus Yeast Mold

F1 Count <10 Negative Negative Negative <10 <10

F2 Count <10 Negative Negative Negative <10 <10
F3 Count <10 Negative Negative Negative <10 <10
F4 Count <10 Negative Negative Negative <10 <10

NEMATI et al.
3.5 | Antibacterial activity of curcumin-­R.
Damascena mask
According to the test result for peel-­off masks, all the different
mixtures could stop the growth of P. acne, S. aureus, and E. coli.
By comparing the inhibition zone of bacteria, the inhibitory activ-
ity of F1 and F2 formulas for P. acne bacteria was more significant
but didn't show significantly differences for other formulations
(Table 4; Figures 5 and 6). Experimental results exhibited that all
F1 and F2 formulations successfully inhibited the growth of three
type experimented bacteria. However, the four formulations don't
have significant capability in combat with E. coli and S. aureus; the
F2 formulation significantly (p ≤ 0.5) showed better anti-­P. acne ca-
pability than other formulations. The ability to stop the growth of
acne-­causing bacteria improved as the curcumin increased. It can be
affected by the amount of available curcumin, which can prevent P.
acne growth. P. acne growth.52
3.6 | Pell off efficacy
Figure 7 show an image of different cycles of the peel off mask and
akin after formulation was applied. Before mask application, the skin
was severely covered by a blue color, and the peel-­off mask layer
showed no any evidence of a blue color. However, after the first
F I G U R E 4 DPPH radical scavenging activity (%) of F1, F2,
F3, F4, Curcumin, R. damascene extract, PVA, and PVP 1 mg/mL
concentration.
TA B L E 4 Inhabitation zone (mm) of
Bacteria F1
peel-­off mask formulation against P. acne,
S. aureus, and E. coli. E. coli 11.71 ± 0.52
S. aureus 11.32 ± 1.05
P. acne 13.82 ± 1.02
|
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9
application of the peel-­off mask, the color of peel-­off mask layer
significantly changed to blue. The blue color of the skin decreased
because the gel formulation was adhesive to ink and removed from
the skin surface after drying and skin exfoliation. This process was
repeated four times, and every time. the severity of the blue color
on the skin decreased and peeled off to clean the blue color from the
skin's surface. This experiment confirms that the prepared formula-
tion had a skin peel-­off capability. The experiment we designed was
only to show the effectiveness of the formulated mask in removing
the surface layers or impurities stuck to the skin's outer surface, and
it was done using blue ink. In this test, after four times, almost the
majority of the ink has been removed from the surface of the skin,
but this does not mean the need to use this formula four times a day
for cleaning in real conditions because the ink is very firmly attached
to the surface of the skin and Even with the use of detergent, it is
not easily removed. This test was done to better and more easily
understand the function and effectiveness of the mask for the audi-
ence and to observe the fading effect of the color spread on the skin.
3.7 | Curcumin permeability
Curcumin demonstrated high accessibility and bioactivity when ap-
plied topically, particularly when formulated with other ingredients
such as glycerol and ethanol, which increased its permeability, estab-
lishing curcumin as a therapeutic agent for the topical delivery.53,54
Set up the equipment of curcumin permeability from mice skin
experiment displayed in Figure 8. Permeability results exhibited that
a small amount of curcumin successfully transfers from the skin sur-
face. The total amount of curcumin diffused through the skin within
1 h was 6% for F1 and 4% for F2 formulation.
4 | DISCUSSION
In the present paper, R. Damascena extract was extracted from a
flower and used as an ingredient for peel-­off mask formulation.
Some parts were taken out from the flowers, petals, and seed pots
of R. Damascena, which contains various natural compounds such
as terpenes, glycosides, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. This plant
has some things in it called carboxylic acid, myrcene, vitamin C,
kaempferol, and quercetin. Flowers have some bitter stuff, tanning
material, fatty oil, and organic acids. In 2007, Loghmani-­Khouzani
and others discovered over 95 different parts in the essential oil
of R. Damascena. Eighteen substances made up over 95% of all the
oil. The oil had four main ingredients, β-­citronellol, nonadecane,
F2 F3 F4
11.29 ± 0.91 10.93 ± 0.32 10.82 ± 0.98
11.92 ± 0.61 11.55 ± 1.38 11.96 ± 0.82
15.35 ± 1.11 12.61 ± 1.64 12.95 ± 0.43
 |

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10 NEMATI et al.

essential substances in it are heneicosane and phenyl ethyl alcohol.

In a different research, they found out that roses contain certain
chemicals like phenyl ethyl alcohol, citronellol, nerol, and geranial.55
R. Damascena has a lot of phenolic compounds, which is one reason
why it can be used as medicine. Phenolics have many health ben-
efits, like fighting off hazardous substances in the body, acting as
antioxidants, antidepressants, reducing anti-­inflammatory, prevent-
ing mutations, and stopping cancer cells from growing.6
A study has demonstrated that R. Damascena can kill many dif-
ferent types of bacteria. Essential oil, absolute, and hydrosol are
important products with specific effects. Ulusoy and colleagues
found that essential oil and absolute can kill certain bacteria like
E. coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and B. Bacteria named subtilis and
S. aureus, Chromobacterium violaceum, and Erwinia carotovora are
different types of bacteria. C. violaceum is a tiny living thing easily
affected by rose oil and absolute. E. coli was damaged by rose es-
sential.56 Rose extract can kill both types of bacteria gram-­negative
and gram-­positive bacteria.56 Citronellol, geraniol, and nerol in rose
oil were found to kill bacteria. It means that the ability of rose oil to
fight bacteria may be because of these parts in the oil.17 The anti-
bacterial powers of rose absolute may be due to its large amount of
phenylethyl alcohol. People have known for a long time that alcohol
can fight off germs.57
However, the physical properties of the prepared formulation
are the same. However, the higher amount of PVA and PVP in F2
and F4 formulations decreased applicability based on the vaulters'
opinions. With an increase in the amount of PVA from 8 to 10
and PVP from 1% to 2% in the F2 and F4 formula, the viscosity
increased by about 5000–5500 cps unit, and consequently, the
spreading peel-­off gel on the skin surface decreased. Ideally, peel-­
off face masks should dry within 15–30 min. 2 The drying time
experimental result showed that the percentage of ethanol had
F I G U R E 5 Digital images showing antibacterial assay of more effect than the percentage of polymeric materials such as
prepared formulation against (A) E. coli; (B) S. aureus (C); P. acne. PVA and PVP because the increase of PVA from 8 to 10 and PVP
from 1% to 2% in F2 and F4 did not have any significant effect on
NS drying time of prepared formulation. With an increase in PVA and
20 * PVP content, the thickness of the dried film increased. For topical
*
NS
Inhibition zone (mm)

use, the pH should be in the skin pH range (4–6) to minimize skin

15 irritation for skin health maintenance, 25 which is in the same range
as our formulation. Our finding shows that the ingredients in the
F1
10 mask remained stable during that time. This change in formulation
F2
pH displayed that freeze–thaw can degrade some gel formulation
F3
5 ingredients that can relate to R. damascena extract composition.
F4
Based on reports in the literature, formulations for gel-­like peel-­
0 off masks should have a viscosity between 7100 and 83 144 cps, 58
E. coli S. aureus P. acne which is compatible with our formulation. Our result-­p repared
formulation gel is a non-­N ewtonian fluid with pseudoplastic be-
F I G U R E 6 Inhabitation zone (mm) of peel off mask formulation
havior and thixotropic properties. Many commercially available
against P. acne, S. aureus, and E. coli. NS, not significant. *p value
≤0.5. peel-­off masks in the market had pseudoplastic behavior; there-
fore, our findings showed that the prepared masks had the same
geraniol, and nerol and kaempferol. Some studies found that it has texture as those sold. 59 We tested the prepared formulation on 10
certain substances in it like, phenyl ethyl alcohol, citronellol, nona- healthy female volunteers, and each volunteer tested it on three
decane, and geraniol. Ethanol is also found in it sometimes. The most areas of the skin arm, as shown in Figure 1. After removing the

NEMATI et al.
F I G U R E 7 Optical microscopy imaged
of ink covered skin and peel-­off mask.
F I G U R E 8 (A) Schematic diagram
Franz diffusion cell apparatus. (B) Peel-­off
mask on mice skin surface at the end of
diffusion studies.
mask by some participants in the irritation test, the volunteers'
skin turned slightly red. This reaction was not severe enough to
require the removal of the mask or cause burning and itching and
was observed only after the removal of the mask. We found that
the face mask we used made the top layers of skin more hydrated.
Our results were even better than what other researchers have
found. The amount of curcumin and PVA used did not change the
results of the skin moisture test. After comparing the results, it
was found that there was a big difference in the time variable. The
result exhibited that using products for the face, such as masks,
can immediately hydrate the top layer of skin. This phenomenon
happens because the mask covers the skin and keeps water bet-
ter. Yosipovitch studied how pH levels and hydration affect the
top layer of skin. 60 The study showed that people lose different
amounts of water through their skin at different times during the
day. Also, the skin's hydration mainly stayed the same over 24 h.
These findings show that peel-­off masks make the skin more hy-
drated and that four different types of masks had similar results
in a short study. Adding or removing curcumin from the formu-
las did not make the skin more hydrated in a short time. It means
|
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11
the extract ingredients were ineffective in making the skin more
hydrated. However physical property of prepared formulation is
same, but due to higher amount of PVA and PVP in F2 and F4
formulation applicability decreased base on vaulters opinion. With
increase amount of PVA from 8 to 10 and PVP from 1% to 2% in
F2 and F4 formula viscosity increased about 5000–5500 cps unit
consequently spreading of peel-­off gel on skin surface decreased.
Drying time experimental result showed that precent of ethanol
and polymeric material such as PVA and PVP had effect more sig-
nificant than ethanol amount, because increase of ethanol from
1% to 5% didn't had any significant effect on drying speed of pre-
pared formulation.
All prepared formulations contain ingredients that alter the
structure of the stratum corneum. All mixtures contain ingredi-
ents that alter the composition of the layer. Polyol and PVA have
similar functional groups that can bond through hydrogen bond-
ing. Polyols have a high affinity for attracting water and mak-
ing the skin moist. So, it was thought that the amount of water
lost through the skin would go down because the skin had more
water from the polyols in all products. 61,62 Fluhr and colleagues
 |
12
explained that glycerol in peel-­off facial masks has two functions:
(a) it moisturizes the skin and (b) helps the outer layer of the skin
reorganize after it has been intentionally scaled off through physi-
cal or chemical methods. 63 In addition, the prepared peel-­off mask
significantly reduced the sebum content of the external layer of
skin compared to the control group. Recent studies suggest that
reducing sebum production in the skin affects the treatment of
acne vulgaris. 64 This reduction in sebum production may be be-
cause of certain substances, such as polyphenols in rose extract
and curcumin, that can lower sebum levels. These substances have
been found to have anti-­s ebum effects and are used to treat and
prevent acne. 64
The final product must be free from harmful microorganisms and
not contain high levels of toxic metals. Even though there are no
official worldwide restrictions, most people agree that the bacteria
in cosmetics should be below 100 CFU/g or mL. For other cosmetic
products, the limit should be below 1000 CFU/g or mL in Europe,
65
the United States, and South Korea. Based on our results, the aer-
obic microbial available in the prepared formulation was less than
10 CFU, according to available standards. Because the composition
of the materials used for all the formulations is almost the same and
all formulation prepared in the same conditions, and only some ma-
terials differ slightly in terms of quantity, so the results of the mi-
crobial count of all the formulations are the same and less than the
permissible limit.
Studying how curcumin interacts with other chemicals used in
skin treatments could help create better mixes for different skin
conditions.
A considerable portion of skin damage and unwanted phenomena
in the skin, such as aging, stretching, and inflammation, occurred due
to the hyperproduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that caused
to cytokine release.66 The release of these cytokines is maintained
by the overproduction of ROS, produced primarily by sustained an-
tigenic stimulation and also triggered by the inflammatory response
to antigenic stimulation. Conversely, the antioxidant system may be
depleted in chronic inflammatory conditions, resulting in a redox im-
balance, and persistent oxidative stress.67 Curcumin's potential top-
ical and systemic usage in the treating and preventing of skin aging
has been investigated due to its recognized anti-­inflammatory and
antioxidant properties.68 In a clinical study of 28 women, daily use
of an herbal formula gel containing rosemary and turmeric extract
(containing curcumin) for 4 weeks significantly improved skin elastic-
ity and the subjects' overall self-­assessment.69 In addition, Curcumin's
ability to stimulate collagen production is essential in terms of facial
skin tone and appearance.70 Curcumin has been shown to decrease
the amount of membrane matrix metalloproteinases, stimulate hy-
droxyproline and collagen production, and promote the maturation
of collagen fibers.71,72 Curcumin also promotes fibroblast to myofi-
broblast differentiation, signals the onset of wound contraction, and
shortens the epithelialization phase of the wound.73–75
Asada et al. conducted a double-­blind study on 47 healthy
participants to investigate the effect of Curcuma longa extract on
14732165, 0, Downloaded from https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.16255 by Nat Prov Indonesia, Wiley Online Library on [11/05/2024]. See the Terms and Conditions (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/terms-and-conditions) on Wiley Online Library for rules of use; OA articles are governed by the applicable Creative Commons License
NEMATI et al.
treatment inflammation caused by UVB irradiation. Participants
were randomly divided into two groups—one group received a daily
hot water extract of Curcuma longa, while the other group received
a pretend treatment. The results showed that the group taking the
extract decreased in two types of proteins related to inflammation
compared to the placebo group. It significantly increased hyaluronan
production by unstimulated keratinocytes and increased the water
content of the facial skin. In addition to its anti-­inflammatory effects,
curcumin may be a helpful moisturizer.76
5 | CO N C LU S I O N
The main objective of this research was to examine the factors
that have the most significant effect on the desirable qualities of
peel-­off facial masks. Higher concentrations of PVA and PVP had
a notable impact on the drying time. The amounts of PVP and PVA
had a significant influence on the consistency of the formulations,
which consequently affected their applicability. Improved appli-
cability was achieved by decreasing the concentration of PVA and
PVP. The most effective combination for the peel-­off face mask
consisted of 10% PVA, 0.02% PVP, and 2% Curcumin. This mix-
ture was highly effective, dried quickly, and had good antimicrobial
properties. The preliminary study on stability demonstrated that
there are no changes in the improved formula when stored under
usual storage conditions. The preservative demonstrated satisfac-
tory results in preventing the growth of fungi and bacteria during
our tested storage conditions. The number of microbes present
was <1 × 101 CFU/g for both fungi and bacteria. Optimized formu-
lation significantly inhibits both gram-­negative and gram-­positive
bacteria. Curcumin diffusion from formulation to skin show that
Curcumin successfully diffuses from formulation from skin barriers.
Peel-­off experimental result shows that prepared mask effectively
remove ink from kin surface. This paper provides background infor-
mation on the application of peel-­off formulations as a vehicle for
several pharmaceutical ingredients.
C O N F L I C T O F I N T E R E S T S TAT E M E N T
Authors have no conflict of interest to declare.
DATA AVA I L A B I L I T Y S TAT E M E N T
The data that support the findings of this study are available from
the corresponding author upon reasonable request.
E T H I C S S TAT E M E N T
Ethical approval for the experimental procedure's irritation testing
was obtained from the Shiraz University Ethics Committee. All vol-
unteer read and signed a written informed consent form.
ORCID
Mehdi Abedi https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3405-511X
Mobin Haghdel https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2680-2581

NEMATI et al.
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How to cite this article: Nemati MM, Abedi M, Ghasemi Y,
Ashrafi H, Haghdel M. Formulation and evaluation of
antioxidant and antibacterial activity of a peel-­off facial
masks moisturizer containing curcumin and Rosa Damascena
extract. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024;00:1-14. doi:10.1111/
jocd.16255