Graduation Research Project

Enhancing Sampling Efficiency & Communication

to Ensure Smooth Onboarding for
New Buyers at Triburg

Submitted by
Shubhra Tiwari

Under the supervision of

Manish Singh Dhakad
Assistant Professor

IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE POST GRADUATE DEGREE

"MASTER OF FASHION MANAGEMENT (MFM)"

Submitted to

Department of Fashion Management Studies (FMS)

National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)
Umsawli, Mawpat Meghalaya,
Pin - 793012 Ph. 0364-2308818
Web: www.nift.ac.in

May 2024
 DECLARATION

The author Shubhra Tiwari affirms that the Graduation Research Project titled
"Enhancing Sampling Efficiency & Communication to Ensure Smooth Onboarding
for New Buyers at Triburg” is the outcome of her independent research conducted
from January 08, 2024, to April 26, 2024. The work is original except for referenced
sources. The report has not been previously submitted for any degree or diploma to
any other University or Institution.

Signature

Name of Student: Shubhra Tiwari

Date:

iii
 MENTOR CERTIFICATE

I hereby confirm that Ms. Shubhra Tiwari, an esteemed Post Graduate student at
National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Shillong, has impeccably
accomplished her Summer Internship project titled "Enhancing Sampling Efficiency
& Communication to Ensure Smooth Onboarding for New Buyers at Triburg”.
This achievement serves as a partial fulfillment of the exacting requirements
mandated by the prestigious Master of Fashion Management (MFM) course,
meticulously designed by the erudite Department of Fashion Management Studies
(FMS) at the National Institute of Fashion Technology.

The Graduation Research Project' report enclosed herein stands as a testament to the
scholarly and dedicated efforts she diligently put forth under my expert guidance
during the period spanning from January 8 th 2024, to April 26th 2024.

Signature

Name of the Faculty Mentor: Manish Singh Dhakad

Designation: Assistant Professor

iv
CERTIFICATE

v
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

The successful completion of this study would not have been possible without the
invaluable expertise and guidance of Mr. Uday Bhasker, Merchandising Head at
Triburg Sourcing Pvt. Ltd.

I am deeply grateful to each member of Triburg's entire division for their unwavering
help and support throughout this endeavor.

I also wish to express my heartfelt gratitude to Ms. Jyoti Saikia, the visionary Director
of Triburg Sourcing Pvt. Ltd. for providing me with the opportunity to be a part of this
esteemed organization and for his unwavering belief in me and my work.

Additionally, I extend my sincere thanks to my alma mater, National Institute of

Fashion Technology, Shillong, for providing me with the platform to explore diverse
aspects of the industry. I am especially grateful to my mentor, Mr. Manish Singh
Dhakad, esteemed Assistant Professor and Mentor, for his constant support and
mentorship during my Graduation Research Project program.

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 Table of Contents

ABSTRACT ................................................................................................................ 12
1. INTRODUCTION.................................................................................................. 13
1.1 Industry Overview ............................................................................................... 13
1.2 About the company .............................................................................................. 15
1.2.1 Vision .............................................................................................................. 16
1.2.2 Evolution ......................................................................................................... 16
1.2.3 Location/Geography ........................................................................................ 16
1.2.4 Customers........................................................................................................ 16
1.2.5 Vendors ........................................................................................................... 17
1.2.6 Products ........................................................................................................... 17
1.3 Introduction to BCI ............................................................................................. 17
1.4 Organization Structure........................................................................................ 19
1.5 Departments in Triburg ...................................................................................... 19
1.6 Merchandising Department and its Functions:................................................. 22
2. COMMUNICATION: BACKBONE OF MERCHANDISING ......................... 26
2.1 Introduction.......................................................................................................... 26
3. PROBLEM STATEMENT.................................................................................... 30
4. LITERATURE REVIEW ..................................................................................... 31
4.1 Introduction.......................................................................................................... 31
4.2 Communication Challenges and Strategies........................................................ 36
4.3 Technology Adoption:.......................................................................................... 36
4.4 Training and Development:................................................................................. 36
4.5 Integrated Approach............................................................................................ 37
4.6 Study on Factors Delaying Lead Time in the Apparel Supply Chain
Management: A Case Study on the Order of Execution Strategies of a Garment
Factory in Bangladesh ............................................................................................... 37
4.7 Research Gaps in New Buyer Onboarding in the Apparel Industry .............. 40
5. PURPOSE OF STUDY .......................................................................................... 44
6. RESEARCH QUESTION...................................................................................... 45
7. OBJECTIVE OF THE RESEARCH.................................................................... 46
8. METHODOLOGY................................................................................................. 47
8.1 New Buyer onboarding process .......................................................................... 49
8.2 Stakeholder Engagement..................................................................................... 50

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 8.2.1 Stakeholder Identification ............................................................................... 50
8.2.2 Engagement Techniques.................................................................................. 51
9. DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS ........................................................... 57
9.1 Document Analysis............................................................................................... 57
9.2 Problem Identification......................................................................................... 61
9.3 Root Cause Analysis of Delay Time.................................................................... 63
9.4 Regression Analysis.............................................................................................. 65
9.5 Technology Adoption in Apparel Industry........................................................ 66
10. STRATEGY FORMULATION .......................................................................... 71
10.1 Strategy implementation for the sampling process......................................... 72
10.1.1 Kanban Board ................................................................................................ 72
10.1.2 Performance Dashboard ................................................................................ 78
10.1.3 Single Point of Contact (POC) ...................................................................... 81
10.2 Training and continuous improvement............................................................ 82
11. ITERATIONS BASED ON FEEDBACK .......................................................... 84
11.1 Open Access Problem ........................................................................................ 86
11.2 Need for Automation ......................................................................................... 87
11.3 Files, notes and reference materials ................................................................. 91
11.4 T-x Deliverables & Accountability ................................................................... 91
12. COMPARATIVE STUDY .................................................................................. 93
12.1 Comparison Results ........................................................................................... 97
12.2 KPI Performance Results from the Dashboard .............................................. 98
13. CONCLUSION .................................................................................................... 99
14. RECOMMENDATIONS ................................................................................... 100
15. LIMITATIONS OF THE PROJECT .............................................................. 101

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 Table of Figures

Figure 1 Company's Banner ......................................................................................... 15

Figure 2 BCI Banner .................................................................................................... 17
Figure 3 Details of BCI ................................................................................................ 17
Figure 4 Details of CECE ............................................................................................ 18
Figure 5 Details of VC ................................................................................................. 18
Figure 6 Design Dept. of Triburg................................................................................. 20
Figure 7 Communication Channel b/w Buyer & Merchandiser .................................. 26
Figure 8 Sample hierarchy in sampling stage .............................................................. 38
Figure 9 Production procedure followed during order execution ................................ 38
Figure 10 Sample approval procedure diagram ........................................................... 38
Figure 11 Time Required vs Extra Time for revised submission of items .................. 39
Figure 12 Gantt chart for executed order ..................................................................... 40
Figure 13 New buyer onboarding process ................................................................... 50
Figure 14 Mail from factory to sampling department .................................................. 57
Figure 15 Mail from sampling department to factory .................................................. 58
Figure 16 Mail from sampling department to factory .................................................. 58
Figure 17 Styles of CECE updating chart .................................................................... 59
Figure 18 Styles of VC updating chart......................................................................... 60
Figure 19 Chart for factors causing delay .................................................................... 64
Figure 20 Apparel connect style cost sheet interface................................................... 68
Figure 21 Apparel connect style updating sheet interface ........................................... 69
Figure 22 RDPL-APPS product solutions ................................................................... 70
Figure 23 Implementation plan roadmap ..................................................................... 71
Figure 24 A sample card for a style ............................................................................. 75
Figure 25 Kanban board as on March 21, 2024 ........................................................... 77
Figure 26 Dashboard preview as on March 21, 2024 .................................................. 80
Figure 27 Kanban board during feedback as on April 6, 2024 .................................... 85
Figure 28 Stakeholder communication relationship .................................................... 86
Figure 29 Preview of a pop-up in feedback integrated Kanban board......................... 88
Figure 30 Platform-based Kanban settings preview .................................................... 90
Figure 31 Platform-based Kanban board ..................................................................... 90

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Figure 32 Factors causing delay in new styles............................................................. 94
Figure 33 Dashboard for new styles as on April 19, 2024........................................... 96

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 List of Tables

Table 1 Type of Samples ............................................................................................. 22

Table 2 Functions of Merchandising Dept................................................................... 23
Table 3 Methodology ................................................................................................... 47
Table 4 Methodology mapping to research question and objectives ........................... 48
Table 5 Styles causing various issues .......................................................................... 61
Table 6 Datasheet for delay time and causes ............................................................... 63
Table 7 Reason wise sample dela ................................................................................ 64
Table 8 Brand wise sample delay ................................................................................ 64
Table 9 Regression variables table............................................................................... 65
Table 10 Regression analysis sheet.............................................................................. 66
Table 11 ERP modules table........................................................................................ 67
Table 12 Kanban cards template as on March 21, 2024 .............................................. 74
Table 13 Pivot tables for dashboard............................................................................. 79
Table 14 Cards template during feedback as on April 6, 2024 .................................... 84
Table 15 New styles datasheet for sample delay time and causes after implementation
...................................................................................................................................... 93
Table 16 Reason wise delay......................................................................................... 94
Table 17 Brand wise delay........................................................................................... 94
Table 18 Final cards template as on April 19, 2024 .................................................... 95

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 Abstract

This research explores the challenges and solutions in streamlining the new buyer
onboarding workflow in Triburg's sampling department, focusing on CECE and Vince
Camuto. Efficient workflows are crucial in the competitive fashion industry for
customer satisfaction. Triburg faces specific challenges with these key clients, making
this study relevant and impactful.

Through stakeholder engagement, including brainstorming sessions and surveys,

communication breakdowns and approval delays were identified. This engagement
ensured that the identified challenges were grounded in real-world experiences.
The Triburg Onboarding Optimization Program (TOOP) used Kanban boards and
data-driven dashboards to enhance communication and workflow efficiency. These
tools help visualize tasks and provide real-time insights, addressing workflow
inefficiencies.

Feedback iterations were integral in refining TOOP, leading to significant

improvements in cycle time, task visibility, and collaboration. Continuous
improvement ensured responsiveness to ongoing challenges and sustained
performance enhancements.
Comparative analysis pre- and post-implementation revealed notable improvements in
key performance indicators (KPIs), validating TOOP's success.

This study demonstrates TOOP's effectiveness in addressing communication

inefficiencies and improving collaboration, optimizing the sampling workflow for
enhanced efficiency and timely delivery of high-quality samples. The research's focus
on specific clients underscores its real-world applicability and practical impact on the
fashion industry.

12
 1. Introduction

1.1 Industry Overview

The Indian apparel industry operates within a complex framework where buying and
sourcing houses serve as instrumental facilitators, bridging the communication gap
between consumers and suppliers. In this intricate landscape, these entities assume a
pivotal role in expediting the procurement process, acquiring garments from diverse
producers, and facilitating their export to international markets. This research
meticulously examines the multifaceted realm of Indian apparel buying and sourcing
houses, meticulously scrutinizing their functions, challenges, and contributions within
the global fashion environment.

Terminology such as "buying houses" is refined to "sourcing or buying agencies,"

emphasizing the sophisticated nature of these entities. They function as indispensable
liaisons between clothing manufacturers and their clientele, comprising discerning
retailers, wholesalers, and esteemed fashion labels. The core objective is to represent
the client's interests throughout the production journey, ensuring strict adherence to
specified requirements and upholding impeccable quality standards.

In the contemporary ethos of the fashion business, punctuality assumes paramount

importance for merchants and producers. Efficient management of both pre- and post-
production processes emerges as a linchpin for achieving sales targets, ensuring
financial viability, and cultivating a sterling reputation in a highly competitive
industry.

Challenges manifest in the form of delays, adding additional days to the planned
timeline. These delays, often rooted in non-value-added issues, significantly extend
lead times, creating formidable obstacles for manufacturers aspiring to compete on a
global scale.

The operational processes of buying houses in the Indian apparel industry are
characterized by their distinctiveness, varying from one entity to another. The
subsequent delineation outlines a standardized process flow:
➢ Tech Pack Reception: The process commences with the meticulous
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 reception of Tech Packs or Technical Packs from the buyer, orchestrated by
the Sampling Department within the buying house.
➢ Intermediary Role of Sampling Department: Acting as a pivotal
intermediary, the Sampling Department collaborates seamlessly with the
factory to facilitate the transformation of Tech Pack specifications into
tangible garment samples. This stage involves effective communication
between the buying house and the factory, ensuring a harmonious translation
of design concepts into feasible prototypes.
➢ CAD & Pattern Making: Transitioning to the CAD and Pattern Making
stage, the Sampling Department oversees the creation of patterns, leveraging
computer- aided design for precision.
➢ Sample Fabrication: As the intermediary, the Sampling Department takes a
hands- on approach in overseeing the fabrication of samples, ensuring that
they align with the buyer's expectations and design specifications.
➢ Size Setting and Quality Assurance: Post-sample fabrication, the Sampling
Department diligently focuses on Size Setting, adhering meticulously to the
Tech Pack guidelines. Any deviations prompt thorough revisions to uphold
perfection. Quality assurance measures are implemented to guarantee that the
samples meet the stringent standards set by both the buying house and the
discerning buyer.
➢ Pre-Production (PP) Meeting: Facilitating a crucial Pre-Production
Meeting, the Sampling Department ensures the presence of key stakeholders,
including the buyer or their representative, merchandiser, and sample
manager. Collective decisions on production commencement and timelines
are made, providing a seamless transition from sample creation to the final
production phase.
➢ Grading and Marker Efficiency: Following sample approval, the Sampling
Department oversees the Grading process, assigning multiple grades if
necessary. The design is then input into marker software, strategically
optimizing the placement of patterns on fabric to enhance efficiency and
conserve resources.

This refined Garment Sampling Process underscores the role of the Sampling
Department within the buying house as a vital link between the buyer's vision and the
14
factory's production capabilities. The collaborative and intermediary functions of the
Sampling Department not only ensure precision in sample creation but also contribute
to the seamless execution of subsequent production phases.

1.2 About the company

Figure 1 Company's Banner

Triburg-Apparel Sourcing & Beyond is the India-headquartered multinational group

and recognized as the world leader in consumer goods design, development, sourcing
and distribution. The Company specializes in supply chain management of high-
volume, time sensitive goods for leading retailers and brands worldwide via an
extensive global network. It is India’s leading apparel sourcing solutions provider,
who have helped global brands build and grow their businesses out of the Indian
subcontinent. It developed 70,000 samples, shipped over 60 million garments with
0.028% of defects in 10,000 styles annually. With over three decades of industry
experience with leading brands and more than 500 professionals, Triburg manages
end-to-end sourcing services to various apparel companies. It has proved itself as a
reliable framework that delivers consistently and accurately.
Over the years, Triburg has won numerous industry accolades for its performance,
governance, and sustainability. The Company is committed to the highest operational
standards, conducting its business with integrity and good corporate governance
practices with an emphasis on transparency and accountability. Sustainability
considerations are embedded into its corporate policies and risk management systems.
Under the leadership of Mr. Tarun Bakshi, it provides technical and sourcing services
for textile apparel, leather apparel, leather, outer-wear and home products with a
vendor base of 150 factories.

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1.2.1 Vision

Triburg has developed and grown over thirty years, yet have cling on to the things that
they believe make global apparel brands truly remarkable:
➢ Value
➢ Innovation
➢ Speed
➢ Quality
Yet it’s their approach to get hands-on on the shop floor that makes them unique.

1.2.2 Evolution
Triburg started with sportswear casual clothing for one of the clients in two countries.
With time, it moved into tailored and structured clothing. Investment in quality
manpower better process and skills, trainings resulted in getting over 10 clients over
three countries. The focus was process excellence through operational evolution,
continuous up gradation of skills and knowledge through in-house web enabled
learning site, workshops, and training institute for the industry. Evolving into the
largest sourcing agent in the sub-continent making apparels, accessories, and home
furnishing with over 30 clients in multiple countries, Triburg has various offices and
vendors across India and abroad.

1.2.3 Location/Geography
Headquartered in New Delhi, India, Triburg has several Regional Production offices
in India. It has its Global liaison office in New York with its raw material sourcing
centre in Shanghai. There are manufacturing management centres in Jordan, Bahrain,
Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka.

1.2.4 Customers

Some of the major customers of Triburg are as follows: American Eagle, CK Jeans,
Loft, Ralph Lauren, Aerie, DKNY, Lu & Gray, SanMar, forever 21 Inc., Michael
Kors, Timberland, Armani Exchange, J. Crew, New York & Co., TJ Max, Brooks
Brother, Kenneth Cole, Nordstrom, Club Monaco.

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1.2.5 Vendors

Some of the major vendors with which Triburg has been associated and is working are
as follows: Aman Exports, India Today, Rakheja Enterprises, R.R Trends, Stitch 9,
Dhruv Global, Neeta Creations .

1.2.6 Products

Triburg offers range of products:

➢ Apparel – Womenswear, Menswear, Kids wear.
➢ Accessories – Scarves, Jewelry, Bags & Belts
➢ Home - Soft goods, Hard goods.

1.3 Introduction to BCI

Figure 2 BCI Banner

Figure 3 Details of BCI

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BCI is a multi-brand fashion group specializing in better and contemporary women's
apparel. The company's brands include the nationally-recognized Vince Camuto, 1. State,
CeCe and Chaus. BCI is launching its first DTC brand, Court & Rowe, in Fall 2019.
The company designs, markets, produces and sells its brands through multiple market
segments. Our extensive global sourcing and development capabilities have made us a
leader in speed to market execution.
Founded in 1975, BCI is currently owned and operated by Ariel Chaus after recently
repurchasing it from The Camuto Group in 2018. The company currently exceeds $400
million of annual wholesale revenue.

Figure 4 Details of CECE

CeCe seamlessly offers contemporary pieces infused with femininity, elegance and a bit
of whimsy. The brand has trend-right details and quality, figure-flattering fabrics to take
you from the office to an upscale dinner. CeCe can be found in department stores such
as Nordstrom, Dillard’s, Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s.

Figure 5 Details of VC

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The world of Vince Camuto encompasses clothing and accessories that are forever
modern and forward thinking. The Vince Camuto customer looks for a lifestyle brand
that lets her express herself creatively at work, at home and when traveling.
Offering savvy and trend-conscious styles, Vince Camuto has grown to be one of the
largest department store brands in America. The Vince Camuto Woman embraces color
and looks for well-tailored, quality-crafted apparel. Her unique, statement-making
outfits mix directional pieces, figure-flattering silhouettes and bold accessories.

1.4 Organization Structure

The proprietor of the organization was identified as Mr. Tarun Bakshi. Under his
leadership, the BCI team was organized as follows:
➢ Founder and proprietor
• Team leader
➢ Head of Design
• Designer
➢ Group leader- Merchandising.
• Senior Merchant
• Merchant
➢ Senior technician
• Technician
➢ Quality Assurance Manager
• Senior QA
• QA's

1.5 Departments in Triburg

Fashion Buying Houses help retailers and labels manage supply chains through
overseas trading and sourcing. This network gives merchants and brands fast, flexible,
and affordable access to a wide range of consumer items.
Priorities include fast, affordable sourcing and on-time delivery of high-quality items.
The goal is to meet client organisations' operational needs while keeping value and
improving profitability. To do this, Triburg has several departments:

19
➢ Design: A design team is specifically assigned to each brand. Influenced by
the textile, cultural, and artisanal traditions of India, the designers research and
adopt global trends as sources of inspiration. Triburg provides a fully equipped
design laboratory that embraces the most recent trends and features a creative
environment that fosters innovation and ideation.

Figure 6 Design Dept. of Triburg

➢ Production: After buyer confirmation, production begins. The buyer sends

the merchandiser an order confirmation email including garment design, item
code, fabric quality, and quantity. Work orders are sent to fabric and trim
procurement. The merchandiser asks fit samples while the purchasing
department procures.
Technical Team evaluates Fit Test Sample internally. It is assessed against
tech bundle specifications. Usually, mannequin testing determines garment fit.
Vendors update and remanufacture fit samples once technicians report major
variances or remarks. After Tech-team approval, the merchandiser processes
the sample. Pre-production (PP) samples are made after vendor approval of the
fit sample. To guide production, pre-production samples are crucial.
All suit remarks are considered when evaluating the PP sample. After size sets
are made from the approved PP sample, sealer samples are made with genuine
fabric and trimmings for mass manufacturing.
Another merchandiser pre-production meeting is scheduled. Merchandising,
tech, cutting, stitching, and finishing teams, fabric audit and factory planning
team, vendor quality professionals, and Triburg purchasing house attend. PP
meets to discuss all fabric and manufacturing issues. This method ensures that

20
 all departments understand fabric and production issues. The cutting
department of the factory receives the PP file. According to the Time and
Action Plan, the merchandiser must supervise manufacturing.
➢ Sourcing of Raw Materials: Triburg buys Asian and European fabrics.
Triburg offers fabric technologists through their specialised section. Fabric
Technologists work with Merchandising to source and develop furnishings.
They attend yarn supplier trade exhibitions to buy yarns, not fabrics, for
knitting. They want whole cloth for woven things. They must buy buttons,
decorations, and labels according to style criteria. Again, not all teams have
raw material procurement departments. Some teams, like BCI, let
merchandisers handle procurement without involving sourcing departments.
➢ Colorist: The garment industry emphasises colour. Triburg's department helps
divisions analyse colour shades. The colourist approves garment dyeing lab
dips based on buyer colour standards. Light source influences colour.
The light source and environment affect an object's appearance, so proper
lighting is crucial. Colour quality, light intensity, illumination evenness,
viewing illumination geometry, and surround conditions must meet industry
standards. Any change in these conditions affects colour. Triburg has a colour
viewing booth that uses different light sources to meet buyer needs. US
customer BCI specified CWF at D65. D65's light bluish light subdues green
and red. Cool White Fluorescent lighting contains a lot of green and little red
energy.
➢ Technical: Triburg's international technicians monitor fittings 24/7.
Technicians can meticulously make women's clothing due to their advanced
pattern-making skills, knowledge of fit and drape, and marker plan analysis.
Technical staff ensures:
• Mannequin fit
• Garment construction feasibility Pattern: tech bundle conformance
Merchants receive a draft body from vendors, which the technical team
inspects for garment construction. This sturdy body can be made from
available fabric and trimmings.
Vendors make prototypes based on feedback. Responding to customer
feedback, many submissions are received. Following that, the consumer
examines, re-examines, and manipulates samples.
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 Table 1 Type of Samples

Pre-production samples are made on the base size whereas the sealer samples
are the closure samples used for bulk production. It is made in actual trims,
fabric incorporating all the pre- production comments.
➢ Assurance of Quality: Each division of Triburg has a Quality Assurance
Team to improve efficiency and reduce rejections from prototype to mass
production.
Production begins with rigorous pre-production planning to ensure quality.
According to customer requirements, the group follows AQL 1.0-2.5.
The Quality Controller checks that the merchandiser's clothing meets brand or
retailer standards. The merchandiser and quality control will spend most of
their time together during weekly fitting sessions during crucial seasons. QCs
provide technical feedback.

1.6 Merchandising Department and its Functions:

Merchandisers investigate the preproduction activities, sourcing fabrics and trims,
following up with the vendor and buyer, visiting the factory and costing. The product
merchandiser investigates the production of garment, from sourcing of fabric, trims,
etc. to finishing in a unit.
Merchandiser keeps updating the submit form for the buyer as they send different
fabrics or trims to the buyer for approval, after courier, the submit form is mailed to
the buyer.
At Triburg, the merchandising team had different formats as per the requirement of
22
 the buyer. While for some buyers, they had separate product development team and
production team, on the other hand, for some there was a common merchandising
team that used to take care of both the departments.

•Customer shares the Tech-packs and Developments

.

•Merchants review the tech-packs and allocate sampling based on vendors capability.
.

•Merchants provide Tech Packs/ Artworks/ Fabric info/ Colour standard to vendors. They
. follow up as per TNA for sampling.

•Simultaneously, merchants take closure from customer on lab dips, desk looms,fabric
. quality, trims and washes.

•Merchants receive samples and get them reviewed by the Tech team. Same time, vendors
. work on the costing (CAD).

•The tech-team advises corrections to vendors. The merchants too work and negotiate the
. costs

•Send samples and costing to Buyer

.

•Selection by customer. Simultaneously, cost negotiations with them.

.

•Confirmation received as per TNA.

.

•Production Begins.
.

Table 2 Functions of Merchandising Dept.

➢ Meeting with Buyers: During this phase, designers present their latest
creations to buyers. Alternatively, if a buyer has already decided on a style and
requires minor adjustments such as modifications to the fit, fabrics, or
trimmings, they consult with the merchandiser of the manufacturing facility.
➢ Development of initial samples for the buyer
• Following receipt of the buyer's concept or instructions regarding
the new design, samples are created using fabrics and trims that
are currently available.

23
 • Fabric sample, printing, and embroidery development Fabric is
sourced or developed in accordance with the buyer's
specifications. (“Lab dip approval is critical for the solid color.”
• Other approvals are carried out, including color and print and
embroidery artwork approval. It could potentially be completed
during the preproduction phase.
➢ Costing of the garment (including both the total and manufacturing
costs): Merchants produce cost sheets that include a detailed breakdown of
expenses, including those for raw materials, manufacturing, overhead, and
margin.
➢ Pattern creation, pattern correction, and pattern grading
• The pattern master creates an initial fit pattern before redeveloping
it based on client feedback and corrections made to the fit sample.

• Around two to three fit cycles occur.

• Master grade pattern for size set samples only for specified
measurements, following fit approval. When the order is prepared
for production, the pattern is graded for the entire size range.
➢ Fit sample, size set sample creation, and customer approval
• Samples are prepared in the sampling department and forwarded to
the buyer for approval.
• If the sample is not approved, the buyer may suggest additional
work. The revised document is resubmitted to the purchaser.
➢ Material planning, production planning, and line planning

Material sourcing, production capacity, and line planning all require planning.
➢ Fabrics, embellishments, accessories, and packaging materials are ordered.
Raw material bulk orders are executed.
➢ Fabric and other basic material testing

• The physical properties of bulk fabrics and trimmings are

undergoing testing. This may be accomplished by buyer-
approved/nominated laboratories or by the vendor's internal
testing laboratories.

• Fabric Performance Test (FPT)

24
➢ Pre-production consultation
• Upon approval of the pre-production (PP) sample and
procurement of most trims, preproduction meetings are convened
by merchants or the production planning department in
collaboration with the production, quality, and sourcing teams.
• Every significant comment, required procedures, and dos and
don'ts are addressed.
• All teams are notified of the PCD (planned cut date) and shipment
date.

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 2. Communication: Backbone of Merchandising

2.1 Introduction
Merchandising in the apparel export industry has grown, changing the apparel
merchandiser's job profile. The fees range from simple to complex and cover nearly
every export house department and function. Export merchandising has evolved and
the position's skill set has changed. A merchandiser's main responsibility is timely
order delivery. This position requires effective consumer-supplier communication.
Every export order depends on the merchandiser, who plays a crucial role throughout
the process. Global sourcing is the norm in business, so merchandisers must
communicate with people from around the world who have different cultural,
linguistic, behavioural, and decorum standards to ensure order production and
execution.
A merchandiser can gain a competitive edge by following proper communication
protocol.
Buyer and merchandiser communicate exclusively during export order initiation.
Buyer specifications are sent to the merchandiser expectations in standard manuals
and format-specific documents like the Bill of Materials, Specification Sheet, etc.
Apparel merchandising communication methods include:

Figure 7 Communication Channel b/w Buyer & Merchandiser

Communication in apparel merchandising is varied. A merchandiser must

communicate with various levels of people. These include suppliers for fabric and
accessories, existing buyers for order follow-up, new buyers for future business,
departments like production, quality, purchase, accounts, and shipping, suppliers for
order execution, and subordinates for proper instruction and guidance. Effective
communication in the 21st-century international apparel industry requires skilled
merchandisers.
26
2.1.1 Fashion merchandising communicates with buyers and
suppliers using various methods:
➢ Electronic communication: Email is a widely used communication method
in the apparel industry and globally. Email helps transmit data. Super-easy
documents, files, and images. Merchants must use proper email etiquette
with international buyers.
• Include the Style Number in your subject line to help the recipient
prioritise and understand your message.
• Email correspondence should begin with the same salutation as a letter:
• Use proper capitalization, spelling, and punctuation conventions.
Write concise, clear, and direct paragraphs.
• Make every effort to respond promptly.
• Delete outdated messages.
• Do not send attachments to strangers during initial communication.
➢ Telephone conversation: A phone conversation is the most efficient method
of communication, as it allows for direct interaction between the client and
merchandiser. The merchandiser and customer talk often by phone. To
maintain positive customer relations, merchandisers should know proper
phone etiquette when speaking with international figures. In urgent situations,
telephonic communication helps buyers respond quickly. However, the lack of
conversation evidence may make this approach risky for the merchandiser.
➢ Official events: Merchandisers must host meetings with various individuals
during order processing. It guarantees a quick response and is the oldest and
most reliable method of communication. This method of communication is
effective because facial expressions, body language, and attitude can be used
to make decisions immediately. Merchandisers must communicate with the
following departments.
➢ Video conferencing: Technology has made talking to buyers from the office
much easier in recent years. Because the fashion industry outsources and
buyer offices are often far away, buyers find it difficult to regularly visit the
manufacturing country to meet with people. Audio and video
telecommunications connect people across distances in videoconferencing.
Videoconferencing reduces the drawbacks of in-person meetings and telecom.

27
 Video conferencing can enable one-way or two-way communication between
a buyer, a garment factory, and a fabric supplier. Videoconferencing
technologies can distribute documents and display data in addition to
transmitting meeting proceedings using whiteboards, which is fast and
reliable. Videoconferencing allows remote workers to meet quickly, saving
time and money.
➢ Courier: Vital communication materials are transported via courier. Courier
services must be national and global to be effective.
➢ Virtual prototyping: Apparel manufacturers must reduce time-to-market and
improve product performance and dependability in the current business
culture. Technology allows buyers to be contacted quickly, cheaply, and even
during sampling. Virtual prototyping is a time-saving way to communicate
with the buyer without submitting a physical sample because early prototyping
only evaluates the sample's aesthetics. Product development uses virtual
prototyping. CAD and CAE software are used. In today's fast-changing world,
merchandisers should be aware of virtual prototyping and be able to handle it.
➢ E-commerce or electronic data interchange: Many apparel manufacturers
are struggling in the current economy. Businesses that rely on phones, faxes,
emails, and couriers struggle to survive and grow. These methods hinder
record maintenance and reconciliation and reduce operational efficiency.
Document exchange is also crucial in apparel supply chains during
manufacturing, ordering, delivery, receiving, and selling. Buyers, suppliers,
and partners exchange millions of trading documents daily, including
Advanced Shipping Notices (ASNs) like purchase orders, invoices, and
dispatch advice.
➢ Purchase Orders: Purchase orders and invoices are exchanged electronically
between two organisations via computer to computer through Electronic Data
Interchange (EDI). Automatically, the transmitting and receiving companies
generate and process the electronic document. EDI has two essential parts.
Initially, electronic documents replace paper ones. Standardised document
exchange format.
EDI can help fashion companies save money and improve efficiency by
replacing time-consuming and labour-intensive processes that require physical
documents, meetings, and facsimile machines. Paper reduction may reduce
28
forms, postage, storage, and administrative costs. By replacing paper-based
processes with EDI, organisations can save money, boost efficiency, and
support CSR and sustainability efforts.

29
 3. Problem Statement

The onboarding process for new buyers like - CECE & Vince Camuto in Triburg’s
sampling department presents significant challenges, including communication
breakdowns, delays in design techpack approval, and difficulties in coordinating with
factories. These issues impact workflow efficiency, often leading to missed deadlines
and compromising collaboration. The dynamic nature of buyer requirements adds
complexity to the process, necessitating a comprehensive solution to streamline the
workflow in the sampling department.

30
 4. Literature Review

The textiles and apparel industry in India has strengths across the entire value chain
from fiber, yarn, fabric to apparel. The Indian textile and apparel industry is highly
diversified with a wide range of segments ranging from products of traditional
handloom, handicrafts, wool, and silk products to the organized textile industry in
India. The organized textile industry in India is characterized using capital-intensive
technology for the mass production of textile products and includes spinning,
weaving, processing, and apparel manufacturing.
Cotton plays a major role in sustaining the livelihood of an estimated 6 Mn cotton
farmers and 40-50 Mn people engaged in related activity such as cotton processing &
trade.

India’s trade of technical textile products has been growing strongly and the country
has been a net exporter. India’s exports of technical textile products grew from $2.21
Bn in 2020-21 to $2.85 Bn in 2021- 22, registering a growth rate of 28.4% (YoY).

4.1 Introduction
Onboarding new buyers presents exciting opportunities for growth in the apparel
industry. However, initial sampling stages can be riddled with challenges stemming
from unfamiliarity with each other's design language, lengthy design updates, and
tight deadlines. This review explores existing research on strategies for streamlining
the sampling workflow during buyer onboarding, focusing on communication,
collaboration, process optimization, and performance measurement. (Weiss, 2014)
➢ Communication: Several studies highlight the importance of clear and
efficient communication between buyers, buying houses, and factories as a
cornerstone for smooth sampling (Göçer, Exploring failure-factors of
implementing knowledge management systems in organizations, 2017).
Research suggests utilizing standardized communication protocols, designated
contact points, and regular progress updates to minimize misunderstandings
and delays (Hong [. &., 2016). Additionally, studies emphasize the potential of
technology-aided communication tools like video conferencing and
collaborative platforms to enhance transparency and real-time collaboration (al

31
 Y. e., 2018).
➢ Collaboration: Effective collaboration during onboarding requires bridging
the gap between buyer expectations and manufacturer capabilities. Some
studies recommend joint design reviews early in the process to establish
mutual understanding and minimize revision loops (al A. e., 2013) (al K. e.,
2015). Others advocate for collaborative prototyping approaches that involve
both buyers and manufacturers in the early stages of product development
(Wölfle, 2013), (Tischner, 2005). Furthermore, research underlines the
significance of supplier relationship management (SRM) in fostering trust and
collaboration, enabling efficient problem-solving during sampling (al M. e.,
2001) (Nichols, Knowledge management barriers: Why the technology
imperative seldom works, 2002).
➢ Process Optimization: Streamlining the sampling process often involves
implementing standardized onboarding procedures. Research suggests
defining clear roles and responsibilities, establishing timelines, and utilizing
checklists to ensure smooth workflow (al J. e., 2005); (Kristensen, 2004).
Additionally, studies highlight the potential of digital tools for tech packs and
bills of materials (BOMs) to streamline updates, version control, and
accessibility for all stakeholders (Hong C. &., 2016); (Göçer, 2017). These
tools can reduce errors, improve communication, and expedite the approval
process.
➢ Performance Measurement: Measuring the effectiveness of the sampling
workflow is crucial for continuous improvement. Studies recommend tracking
key performance indicators (KPIs) such as lead times, error rates,
communication effectiveness, and buyer satisfaction (al A. e., 2013) (Nichols,
2002). Regularly gathering feedback from all parties involved and analyzing
performance data allows for identifying bottlenecks and implementing targeted
improvements (al M. e., 2001); (Göçer, 2017).
The apparel industry's dynamic landscape demands a meticulous examination of
various factors influencing sampling workflows. In this literature review, we delve
into key components such as buyer onboarding processes, Standard Operating
Procedures (SOP), techpack processes, Training Needs Analysis (TNA), delivery
delays, and the impact of training, as well as the role of tools and software in
streamlining sampling workflows.
32
➢ Buyer Onboarding Processes: Effective onboarding processes play a pivotal
role in establishing a collaborative foundation between buyers and sourcing
houses. According to a study by (al S. e., 2021), a structured buyer onboarding
process positively correlates with enhanced communication and understanding
between stakeholders. The review suggests that clear communication channels
and comprehensive orientation programs contribute significantly to smoother
collaboration.
➢ Standard Operating Procedures (SOP): Standard Operating Procedures are
critical in providing a systematic framework for the sampling department.
Research by Johnson and Lee (2019) highlights the importance of well-defined
SOPs in the apparel industry, stating that companies with clearly established
procedures experience fewer delays and errors in the sampling workflow. This
emphasizes the need for a robust procedural framework to ensure consistency
and efficiency.
Standard Operating Procedures are a set of documented guidelines that
establish a structured framework for executing tasks within the sampling
department. In the context of apparel manufacturing, SOPs for the sampling
process are essential for ensuring consistency, reducing errors, and
streamlining workflows. Key considerations include:
• Clear Process Outlines: SOPs should provide clear step-by- step
instructions for each stage of the sampling process, from receiving design
specifications to final sample approval. This clarity minimizes confusion
and accelerates task execution.
• Roles and Responsibilities: Clearly defining the roles and responsibilities
of individuals within the sampling department helps in assigning tasks
efficiently and promoting accountability. This ensures that each team
member understands their contribution to the overall workflow.
• Quality Standards: SOPs should incorporate quality control measures to
maintain consistency in sample production. Defining quality checkpoints
and inspection procedures helps identify and rectify issues early in the
process.
• Flexibility: While maintaining structure, SOPs should allow for
adaptability to accommodate changes in design requirements or

33
 unexpected challenges. A balance between structure and flexibility is
crucial for efficiency.
➢ Techpack Processes: The approval of design techpacks is a cornerstone of the
sampling workflow. Studies by Chen et al. (2020) indicate that delays in
techpack approval can lead to significant setbacks in sample delivery
timelines. Implementing streamlined techpack processes, incorporating
standardized templates, has been shown to reduce approval times by an
average of 15%, as reported by industry surveys (Apparel Insights, 2018).
Techpacks, or technical packages, are detailed documents that communicate
design specifications and requirements from buyers to the sampling
department and manufacturers. Optimizing techpack processes is vital for
minimizing errors, reducing approval times, and improving communication.
Key aspects include:
• Standardization: Implementing standardized techpack templates
facilitates a consistent format for conveying design details. This reduces
the likelihood of misinterpretations and accelerates the approval process
• Digital Collaboration: Utilizing digital platforms for creating and sharing
techpacks enables real-time collaboration between buyers, designers, and
the sampling department. This enhances communication and expedites the
exchange of feedback.
• Version Control: Maintaining version control of techpacks is crucial to
track changes and updates efficiently. This helps prevent confusion,
ensures that all stakeholders work with the latest information, and reduces
the likelihood of errors.
• Interactive Techpacks: Incorporating interactive elements, such as 3D
renderings or multimedia components, enhances the clarity of design
specifications. This visual approach aids in better understanding and faster
decision- making during the approval process.
• Delivery Delays: Timely sample deliveries are crucial for maintaining
buyer satisfaction. According to a global survey conducted by Fashion
Supply Chain Council 2022, approximately 65% of delays in the sampling
workflow are attributed to communication gaps and inefficient processes.
Addressing these delays is imperative for meeting buyer-specified

34
 deadlines and maintaining industry competitiveness.
➢ Involvement of Tools and Software: The integration of collaborative design
software and virtual sampling tools is gaining prominence in the apparel
industry. A survey by Technology Trends in Apparel (2021) revealed that 80%
of leading companies reported a notable improvement in communication and
visualization, leading to a 25% reduction in design iteration cycles. The
involvement of such tools proves instrumental in expediting the design and
approval processes.
The integration of technology, tools, and software solutions is instrumental in
optimizing sampling workflows. These tools enhance communication,
visualization, and overall efficiency. Key considerations include:
• Collaborative Design Software: Platforms that enable real- time
collaboration on design elements and revisions facilitate seamless
communication between buyers and the sampling department. These tools
contribute to faster decision-making and reduce iterations.
• Virtual Sampling Technologies: Virtual sampling allows for the creation
and visualization of prototypes digitally, minimizing the need for physical
samples. This technology expedites the design validation process and
significantly reduces lead times.
• Communication Platforms: Utilizing dedicated communication
platforms ensures clear and efficient interactions between buyers, sourcing
houses, and factories. Integrated messaging, file-sharing, and feedback
mechanisms streamline communication channels.
• Analytics and Reporting Tools: Implementing analytics tools provides
insights into key performance indicators (KPIs) related to sample approval
times, delivery schedules, and workflow bottlenecks. Data-driven decision-
makig enhances overall operational efficiency.

Onboarding new buyers is a critical process for buying houses in the fast-paced and
competitive apparel industry. However, this process often faces challenges, leading
to delays, miscommunication, and missed opportunities. This review examines
existing research on strategies to streamline new buyer onboarding, focusing on
communication protocols, technology adoption, training programs, and their
combined impact on efficiency and success.
35
4.2 Communication Challenges and Strategies
➢ Clarity and Consistency: Studies by (Holgate, 2008) and (al L. e., 2018)
highlight the importance of clear and consistent communication in mitigating
misinterpretations and delays during onboarding. Standardized templates,
online collaboration tools, and clearly defined communication channels are
crucial for effective information exchange.
➢ Cultural Sensitivity: (al C. e., 2011) emphasize the need for cultural
sensitivity in communication, as cultural differences can hinder understanding
and collaboration.
➢ Proactive Communication: (al B. e., 2010) advocate for a proactive
communication approach, with regular updates and open communication
channels to address any buyer concerns promptly.

4.3 Technology Adoption:

➢ Techpack Software: Research by (Fernie, 2013) and (al S. e., 2019) explores
the benefits of techpack software in streamlining communication, managing
technical specifications, and improving data sharing between buying houses
and new buyers.
➢ Data Analytics: (al C. e., 2020) investigate the potential of data analytics to
identify bottlenecks and inefficiencies in the onboarding process, allowing for
data-driven decision making and continuous improvement.
➢ Challenges and Considerations: While technology offers significant
advantages, challenges like cost, training needs, and integration with existing
systems need careful consideration, as highlighted by (James, 2017).

4.4 Training and Development:

➢ Technical Skills: Studies by (Ngai, 2010) and (Sohal, 2011) demonstrate the
positive impact of training programs that equip both buying house staff and
new buyers with the necessary technical skills and knowledge regarding
product specifications, design language, and quality control procedures.
➢ Soft Skills: In addition to technical skills, training in communication skills,
negotiation techniques, and cultural sensitivity can significantly enhance

36
 collaboration and understanding, as emphasized by (al G. e., 2016).

4.5 Integrated Approach

➢ Synergistic Effects: Research by (al S. e., 1996) and (Ahuja, 2008) suggests
that an integrated approach, combining communication strategies, technology
adoption, and targeted training programs, leads to the most significant
improvements in buyer onboarding efficiency and effectiveness.
➢ Continuous Improvement: A continuous improvement mindset is essential, as
highlighted by (al G. e., 2017). This involves monitoring the effectiveness of
implemented strategies, gathering feedback from all stakeholders, and
adapting approaches as needed to ensure continued improvement in the buyer
onboarding process.

4.6 Study on Factors Delaying Lead Time in the Apparel

Supply Chain Management: A Case Study on the Order of
Execution Strategies of a Garment Factory in Bangladesh
Lead time refers to the time in between receiving order and dispatching to buyer.
Lead times that are delayed can be attributed to several factors. Longer approval
times, the submission of subpar materials, rework, and the availability of raw
materials are the most significant factors among the previously mentioned ones. The
research of the aforementioned factors that appropriately extend lead time served as
the foundation for this study.
The apparel industry is becoming increasingly competitive based on customer
satisfaction (Cigolini, 1992); (Fraizier). By eliminating the non-value adding activities
from the processes and streamlining the information flow, significant optimization
results can be realized (Harrington, 1996).

37
➢ Sampling Procedure

Figure 8 Sample hierarchy in sampling stage

➢ Production Procedure

Figure 9 Production procedure followed during order execution

➢ Items Approval Procedure

To secure approval or comments on an item from the ultimate buyer, the route
below must be followed by the given buyer.

Figure 10 Sample approval procedure diagram

38
➢ Conclusion
After analysis, it was found that among the reasons responsible for lead time
delaying, approval period, poor quality material, re-work, and raw material
supply were the most important factors. Due to these reasons, the final
shipment date needed to extend by an extra 45 days which is equal to the total
lead time to execute a small order. As a result of this, this sector is facing
problems of long lead time, i.e., more than 120 days to execute a particular
order.

Figure 11 Time Required vs Extra Time for revised submission of items

39
 Figure 12 Gantt chart for executed order

4.7 Research Gaps in New Buyer Onboarding in the Apparel

Industry

While existing literature has provided valuable insights into new buyer onboarding
processes in the apparel industry, several research gaps remain, signaling opportunities
for further exploration and study. Identifying these gaps is crucial for developing a
more comprehensive understanding of the dynamics involved in onboarding and
improving the efficiency of sampling workflows. The following research gaps merit
attention:
➢ Cultural Nuances in Onboarding: Despite studies acknowledging the
importance of cultural considerations in buyer onboarding, there is a gap in
research specifically delving into the intricacies of cross-cultural interactions
during the onboarding phase. Further investigation could explore how cultural
nuances impact communication, collaboration, and relationship-building
between buyers and sourcing teams.
• Addressing the gap: Implement cross-cultural training programs during
buyer onboarding to enhance awareness and understanding of cultural
40
 nuances.
• Example: Zara, a global fashion retailer, invests in cross- cultural training
for its buying teams, facilitating effective communication with suppliers
worldwide.
➢ Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) Perspective: Existing research tends
to focus on buyer onboarding within larger enterprises, leaving a gap in
understanding how small and medium-sized enterprises navigate onboarding
processes. Investigating the unique challenges and opportunities faced by
SMEs during new buyer onboarding could provide valuable insights for
enhancing the adaptability of smaller businesses in the apparel industry.
• Addressing the gap: Develop tailored onboarding guidelines and support
mechanisms specifically designed for SMEs in the apparel industry.
• Example: Patagonia, known for its commitment to sustainability,
collaborates closely with smaller suppliers, providing targeted onboarding
assistance to ensure alignment with ethical and environmental standards.
➢ Integration of Sustainable Practices: The literature currently lacks a
comprehensive exploration of how sustainable practices are integrated into
new buyer onboarding processes. Given the increasing emphasis on
sustainability in the apparel industry, there is a research gap in understanding
how onboarding procedures can be aligned with environmentally friendly and
socially responsible practices.
• Addressing the gap: Incorporate sustainable onboarding practices,
emphasizing eco-friendly materials, ethical sourcing, and transparent
supply chain processes.
• Example: H&M, through its "Conscious Collection," emphasizes
sustainable practices and collaborates with new suppliers on onboarding to
align with the company's sustainability goals.
➢ Technological Integration and Adoption Challenges: While studies
recognize the positive impact of technology on buyer onboarding, there is a
gap in understanding the challenges and barriers that companies face in
adopting and integrating new technologies. Further research could explore
factors influencing the adoption of collaborative design software, virtual
sampling tools, and other technological solutions during the onboarding phase.

41
 • Addressing the gap: Facilitate technology adoption through training
programs, providing resources, and creating a supportive infrastructure for
implementing collaborative design software and virtual sampling tools.
• Example: Implementing AI-powered translation tools within techpack
software or online collaboration platforms can bridge language barriers and
enhance understanding during cross-cultural communication. Companies
like H&M and Zara are utilizing virtual reality (VR) technologies to
showcase product designs remotely, facilitating clear communication
about design language and reducing the need for physical samples.
➢ Industry-wide Benchmarks and Best Practices: A research gap exists in
establishing industry-wide benchmarks and best practices for new buyer
onboarding in the apparel sector. Investigating successful case studies and
identifying universally applicable practices could provide valuable guidance
for companies looking to optimize their onboarding processes.

• Addressing the gap: Collaborate with industry associations and

stakeholders to establish benchmarks and share best practices for new
buyer onboarding.

• Example: VF Corporation and Levi Strauss & Co. are implementing

onboarding frameworks tailored to different buyer segments based on
factors like order volume and product complexity, which can be further
refined and shared across the industry. Additionally, The Sustainable
Apparel Coalition (SAC) promotes best practices in onboarding through its
Higg Index, providing a standardized approach to sustainability assessment
for companies across the industry.
➢ Quantitative Analysis of Onboarding Impact: Many existing studies rely on
qualitative assessments of onboarding impact. There is a gap in quantitative
analyses that measure the tangible outcomes of effective onboarding, such as
its direct influence on sampling workflow efficiency, reduction in lead times,
and improvements in customer satisfaction.

• Addressing the gap: Implement key performance indicators (KPIs) and

metrics to quantitatively measure the impact of onboarding on sampling
workflow efficiency, lead times, and customer satisfaction.

• Example: Under Armour uses data analytics to quantitatively assess the

42
 impact of onboarding strategies, allowing for continuous improvement and
optimization.
➢ Evaluating the Impact of Regulatory Changes: With the evolving landscape
of regulations in the apparel industry, there is a research gap in understanding
how changes in trade policies, ethical sourcing standards, or other regulatory
factors impact the onboarding practices of buying houses and sourcing teams.

• Addressing the gap: Establish a regulatory monitoring system and adapt

onboarding processes in response to changes in trade policies or ethical
sourcing standards.
• Example: Levi Strauss & Co. actively monitors and adjusts its onboarding
practices to align with evolving regulations, ensuring compliance and
ethical sourcing.
By implementing these strategies and drawing inspiration from industry examples,
companies in the apparel sector can address research gaps in new buyer onboarding.
These approaches not only contribute to academic understanding but also enhance the
effectiveness of onboarding processes, fostering sustainable relationships, and
promoting industry-wide excellence.

43
 5. Purpose of Study

The purpose of this study is to streamline the workflow in sampling departments

when onboarding new buyers CECE & Vince Camuto. By addressing communication
gaps and approval delays, the aim is to optimize the collaboration between new
buyers, Triburg, and factories. The primary goal is to enhance efficiency, reduce the
learning curve, and ensure timely delivery of samples without compromising quality.

44
 6. Research Question
How Triburg’s sampling department for BCI Brand- CECE & Vince Camuto, enhance
collaboration and streamline sampling workflows to efficiently onboard new buyers,
ensuring timely delivery of samples and minimizing communication gaps between
buyers, sourcing houses, and factories?

45
 7. Objective of the Research

To streamline sampling workflow and communication processes by fostering

collaboration between new buyers - CECE and Vince Camuto, the sampling
department of Triburg, and the factory - JIVA Designs.

Sub Objectives:
➢ To identify the specific challenges in the onboarding process for new buyers
like CECE & Vince Camuto in Triburg.
➢ To examine the correlation between improved communication processes and
reduced delays in sample approval.
➢ To assess the effectiveness of collaborative design and system software in
expediting sample delivery.

46
8. Methodology

Table 3 Methodology

47
 Research Question
How Triburg’s sampling department
for BCI Brand- CECE & Vince
Camuto, enhance collaboration and
streamline sampling workflows to
efficiently onboard new buyers,
ensuring timely delivery of samples
and minimizing communication
gaps between buyers, sourcing
houses, and factories?
Table 4 Methodology mapping to research question and objectives
Objective Research
Methodology
Identify the specific challenges in Problem Identification, Data
the onboarding process for new Analysis
buyers like CECE & Vince
Camuto in Triburg.
Assess the effectiveness of Implementation
collaborative design software in
expediting sample delivery.
Examine the correlation between Data Analysis, Outcome
improved communication evaluation and comparison
processes and reduced delays in
sample approval.
48
8.1 New Buyer onboarding process

Buyer contacts Triburg via email.

Initial Contact

Meeting with Head Merchandiser, Business Leader, and Product Development

Virtua Meeting
Setup
Manager.

Introduction
Triburg learns about BCI brand, including CECE and VC.
about brands

Expression of
Triburg expresses interest in doing business.
Interest

Detailed discussion on buyer's requirements for both brands. Information

Buyer's
Requirements includes target price, number of styles, lead time, etc.
Discussion

Buyer sends a detailed email with specifications and requirements.

Detailed Email

Buyer's techpack designer contacts Triburg's Product Development Manager

Techpack
Submission
and Merchandiser. Techpacks and Bill of Materials (BOM) are submitted.

Techpacks and BOM sent to Triburg's factory for SRS sample production.
SRS Sample
Planning
Material and trims sourcing initiated (factory or buyer-specified).

Triburg contacts other factories for tentative costing to meet the target price.
Costing Analysis: Detailed costing analysis for materials, labour, and overheads.

SRS Sample
Factory produces SRS sample based on techpack and BOM.
Production

Material and trims sourced based on specifications. Triburg coordinates with

Material and Trim
Sourcing
either factory sources or specific vendors mentioned by the buyer.

Multiple Factory
Triburg contacts multiple factories for quotes to ensure competitiveness.
Quotes

SRS Sample
SRS sample sent to the buyer for thorough evaluation and approval.
Approval

49
Counter Sample,
• Upon SRS approval, Triburg proceeds to create counter samples,
Testing Sample,
Pre-production
testing samples, and pre-production samples.
Sample

Buyer reviews and approves counter sample, testing sample, and pre-
Buyer Approval production sample.

Buyer releases the Purchase Order (PO) with finalized specifications and
Purchase Order
(PO) Release
quantities.

Production begins in accordance with the approved samples and

Production Start specifications.

Figure 13 New buyer onboarding process

The above-mentioned process highlights the various steps in the current new buyer
onboarding process in the sampling department of Triburg. It has been studied
primarily to serve 2 broad purposes:
Firstly, to identify any existing redundancies or inefficiencies causing wastage of
resources in the form of:
➢ delayed timeline,
➢ cost extension, or
➢ idle time.
Secondly, to find opportunities to incorporate value-adding technological intervention
or to enhance the overall communication flow.

8.2 Stakeholder Engagement

8.2.1 Stakeholder Identification

Identifying key stakeholders is a critical step in ensuring comprehensive
representation and understanding of perspectives related to buyer onboarding.
Stakeholders in the apparel industry may include:
➢ Buying Houses Representatives: Individuals involved in the initial
interaction with buyers, understanding their requirements, and coordinating
the onboarding process.
➢ Buyers: Brands or their representatives experiencing the onboarding and order
execution process from different perspectives.
➢ Factory Representatives: Individuals engaged in the practical
50
 implementation of buyer specifications and responsible for delivering the final
products.

8.2.2 Engagement Techniques

8.2.2.1 Brainstorming Sessions: Brainstorming sessions involve bringing together

cross-functional teams to generate innovative ideas and solutions. This consists of
buying house staff and new buyers.
➢ Objective: To foster open discussion and brainstorming on:
• Specific challenges faced during onboarding.
• Preferred communication methods and tools.
• Training needs and preferences.
• Suggestions for improving the overall onboarding experience.
8.2.2.2 Survey Questionnaire: The survey questionnaire is designed to gather both
qualitative and quantitative data from all 3 stakeholders. Key elements of the
questionnaire include: General Experiences, Communication Effectiveness,
Technology Adoption, Challenges and Improvement Suggestions.
The survey will gather data on:

• Current onboarding practices: Types of communication used, utilized

technologies, and training provided.

• Perceived challenges: Identified difficulties and areas for improvement during

onboarding.
• Experience with existing strategies: Effectiveness of communication protocols,
technology adoption, and training programs.

➢ Draft Questionnaire: Participants involved in Survey:

• Buyers – 2
• Techpack designers – 2
• Buying House Team – 4
• Factory Representatives – 3

51
i. Sample Questions (For Buyer)
➢ How would you rate the efficiency of the current onboarding process in terms
of communication and collaboration with the sampling department?
• Very effective
• Somewhat effective
• Neutral
• Somewhat ineffective
• Very ineffective

➢ Have you experienced any delays or challenges in the approval of design

techpacks and bills of materials during the onboarding process? (Yes/No)
(If yes, please specify the extent of delay)

➢ What specific difficulties have you encountered when providing feedback or

making changes to design techpacks during the onboarding phase? (Open-
ended question)

➢ What communication channels are primarily used during the new buyer
onboarding process? (Select all that apply)
• Email
• Phone calls
• Video conferencing
• In-person meetings
• Other (please specify)

➢ Do you experience any communication challenges during onboarding?

(Yes/No)

(If yes, please elaborate on the specific challenges you face)

➢ On a scale of 1 to 5, how important is clear and timely communication from

the sampling department for the manufacturing of samples?

52
 ➢ Does your company utilise any specific tool/technology for managing buyer
onboarding? (Yes/No)
(If yes, please list the technologies used)

➢ How effective is the current technology in streamlining the onboarding

process?
• Very effective
• Somewhat effective
• Neutral
• Somewhat ineffective
• Very ineffective

➢ Do you face any challenges related to technology adoption or integration

during onboarding? (Yes/No)

(If yes, please elaborate on the specific challenges)

ii. Sample Questions (For Buying House)

➢ What are the biggest challenges you face in streamlining new buyer
onboarding? (Open-ended question)

➢ How do you currently manage and communicate changes in design techpacks

and bills of materials between the buyer and the factory? (Open-ended
question)

➢ On a scale of 1 to 5, how critical is it for the buying house to meet the specified
deadlines for sample deliveries?
• 5 - Very critical
• 4 - Somewhat critical
• 3 - Neutral
• 2 - Not very critical
• 1 - Least critical

➢ Are there any training initiatives in place to facilitate smooth onboarding

processes for new buyers? (Yes/No)
53
 (If yes, please specify the training;g initiative)

➢ How do you currently monitor and track the progress of samples in the
workflow, and what improvements could be made? (Open-ended question)

➢ What strategies do you think would be effective in enhancing collaboration

between the buying house, new buyers, and the factory during onboarding?
(Open-ended question)

➢ What opportunities do you see for improving the effectiveness of buyer

onboarding? (Open-ended question)

iii. Sample Questions (For Factory)

➢ How often do you encounter delays in receiving design techpacks and bills of
materials from the sampling department during new buyer onboarding?
• Very infrequently
• Somewhat infrequently
• Neutral
• Somewhat frequently
• Very frequently

➢ What challenges do you face in aligning your production schedule with the
varying timelines set by new buyers during onboarding? (Open-ended
question)

➢ On a scale of 1 to 5, how important is clear and timely communication from

the sampling department for the manufacturing of samples?
• 5 - Very critical
• 4 - Somewhat critical
• 3 - Neutral
• 2 - Not very critical
• 1 - Least critical

➢ Are there any specific technology integrations or tools that you believe would

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 enhance the efficiency of the onboarding process from the factory's
perspective? (Yes/No)
(If yes, please specify the training initiative)

➢ How satisfied are you with the current process of receiving and understanding
design techpacks for sample production?
• Very satisfied
• Somewhat satisfied
• Neutral
• Somewhat dissatisfied
• Very dissatisfied

➢ In your opinion, what improvements could be made to streamline the workflow

and reduce the time taken for sample production during onboarding? (Open-
ended question

8.2.2.3 Interviews: In-depth interviews provide a deeper understanding of individual

experiences and insights. Participants include stakeholders in successful buyer
onboarding practices: buying house managers, factory representatives, new buyers
with varied experiences.

➢ Purpose :
The interview questions are designed to facilitate in-depth discussions and capture a
comprehensive range of perspectives on the onboarding process for new buyers in the
apparel industry. The main purpose can be categorized to gain in-depth insights into:

• Established best practices and their impact.

• Strategies for overcoming challenges.
• Future potential and emerging trends in buyer onboarding.
➢ Sample questions:
• Can you walk me through a typical onboarding process from your
perspective?
• What challenges, if any, have you encountered in communicating
with other stakeholders involved in onboarding?
• Can you share an example of a specific challenge you faced and

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 how you addressed it?
• What strategies or solutions do you believe could improve the
onboarding process and overcome these challenges?
• Can you identify any specific technology tools or platforms used to
streamline the onboarding process? And what impact have they had
on efficiency of onboarding?
• What mechanisms are in place to monitor and evaluate the
effectiveness of the onboarding process over time?
• How do you gather feedback from stakeholders and how do you
prioritise and implement changes based on feedback and evaluation
results?
• What trends or developments do you anticipate will impact the
onboarding process for new buyers in the future?

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 9. Data Collection and Analysis

9.1 Document Analysis

In the initial phase of document analysis, our objective is to streamline problem
identification by delving into qualitative research. Specifically, we aim to illuminate
the historical communication methods employed to convey details between the
factory and the buying house. The prevailing procedures exhibited an inherent
informality, leading to notable inefficiencies in information retrieval. The antiquated
communication channels proved to be time-consuming, particularly when attempting
to access details pertaining to a single style at a time. This preliminary investigation
lays the groundwork for understanding the challenges posed by the previous
communication framework and sets the stage for devising more efficient and effective
document analysis strategies.

Figure 14 Mail from factory to sampling department

Recognizing the challenges posed by the lack of real-time updates in communication

between the factory, Triburg, and the buyer, a solution was introduced. A
comprehensive chart was implemented to centralize and organize information for each
style, providing real-time updates. This innovative approach included detailed insights
into the progress of each style, accompanied by remarks from key stakeholders such
as the buyer, factory, and buying house.

The introduction of this detailed chart not only streamlined communication but also

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significantly enhanced the workflow. The ability to access up-to- the-minute
information on every style facilitated easy navigation and pinpointed potential
bottlenecks or delays in the process. The chart emerged as a professional and effective
method of communication among the three crucial stakeholders, fostering
transparency and clarity in understanding the status and intricacies of each style. This
strategic enhancement not only addressed the historical difficulties in communication
but also paved the way for a more efficient and collaborative working environment.

Figure 15 Mail from sampling department to factory

Figure 16 Mail from sampling department to factory

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Figure 17 Styles of CECE updating chart

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Figure 18 Styles of VC updating chart

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The below table includes some of the styles from VC brand of BCI. These styles have
been observed to experience issues related to communication block, requiring
clarification, etc due to mentioned reasons resulting in either not being able to fix the
sample submit date or causing revisions for the same causing significant delays in
sample submissions of many styles.

Style Issue Reason No. of submit Sample Delay

date revisions (in days)
956AJ Sample submit Fabric, Lining - 16
date – Not fixed Awaited
697AB Sample submit Pattern, MAP - 11
date – Not fixed Awaited
092M Communication No instruction, 1 14
Block Pattern Awaited
005AL Delay Technical 2 10
mismatch
038AL Delay Pattern Awaited 1 13
039AL Delay Original sample - 13
Awaited
Table 5 Styles causing various issues

9.2 Problem Identification

Several challenges have been identified through a rigorous process of conducting
surveys and interviews with key stakeholders. Based on the responses, these
challenges are grouped as follows:
➢ New design language
One of the primary challenges in the onboarding process for new buyers is
acclimating to each other's design language. Buyers and sourcing teams may
have unique terminology, aesthetic preferences, and design requirements,
which can lead to miscommunication and misunderstanding during the initial
stages of collaboration.
Impact: Misalignment in design language can result in discrepancies between

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 buyer expectations and the actual output, leading to delays, rework, and
dissatisfaction with sample quality.
➢ Understanding the pulse
A critical aspect of successful buyer onboarding is understanding the pulse of
the market, including current trends, consumer preferences, and industry
dynamics. Sourcing teams must stay abreast of market trends and anticipate
buyer needs to deliver relevant and competitive samples.
Impact: Inadequate understanding of market trends or buyer preferences may
result in outdated or mismatched sample designs, reducing the likelihood of
buyer approval and future orders.
➢ Techpack and BoM updates
Another significant challenge in the onboarding process is the frequent
updating of technical packages (techpacks) and bills of materials (BoM). As
buyer requirements evolve or new design iterations are introduced, sourcing
teams must promptly update and communicate these changes to ensure
accuracy and consistency in sample production.
Impact: Delays or inaccuracies in updating techpacks and BoMs can disrupt
the sampling workflow, leading to production errors, material wastage, and
ultimately, compromised sample quality.
➢ Urgency and quality
Balancing the urgency of meeting buyer deadlines with the imperative to
maintain sample quality presents a significant challenge in the onboarding
process. Sourcing teams may face pressure to expedite sample production
without compromising quality standards, often resulting in trade-offs and
challenges in managing priorities.
Impact: Rushed production processes driven by tight deadlines can lead to
errors, oversights, and subpar sample quality, undermining buyer confidence
and long-term relationships.

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9.3 Root Cause Analysis of Delay Time
We have taken a total of 20 styles, 8 in VC and 12 in CECE for analysis purposes.
There are 5 broad reasons for communication inefficiency and delay time:

• Pattern/MAP Awaited
• Fabric/Lining Awaited
• Specification Mismatch
• Original Sample Awaited
• Techpack Awaited

A delay in sample delivery of any style can be impacted by one or more reasons from
among these 5.

Table 6 Datasheet for delay time and causes

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 Table 7 Reason wise sample dela

Table 8 Brand wise sample delay

In brand-wise analysis, while total delay time shows that CECE exceeds VC by some
margin (8 days), the average delay per style for VC is approx. 37% more than CECE.
"Pattern/MAP Awaited" occurs the most number of times, i.e., 9. It causes the most
delay with 90 days. Whereas, "Teckpack Awaited" is the least contributing factor to
the overall delay with only 4 occurrences and 29 days across brands and styles.
Hence, Pattern/MAP approval seems to be causing exactly half the delay, i.e., 90 days
out of 180 in total.

Figure 19 Chart for factors causing delay

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9.4 Regression Analysis
In order to understand the relationship and extent of impact of number of subsequent
approvals or updates regarding various factors of a style such as fabric, colour,
pattern, etc., once the techpack has been received and the style has been shared with
the factory to proceed with sample production. The regression analysis would test the
hypothesis whether approvals/updates lead to a delayed sample delivery or not.

Table 9 Regression variables table

Hypothesis Development
➢ Null Hypothesis: H o : No relationship exists between no. of
approvals/updates and sample delay time
➢ Alternate Hypothesis: H 1 : Significant relationship exists between no. of
approvals/updates and sample delay time

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 Criteria:
Confidence interval: 95%
Alpha (α): 0.05
Population assumption: Normal distribution

Table 10 Regression analysis sheet

It can be observed that significance F and p-value is less than 0.05, which means we
can reject the null hypothesis and confirm that there exists a relationship between
number of approvals/updates and delay time.
The adjusted R square is 60.5% which can be considered acceptable. So, the
regression model is said to be reliable. Therefore, it can be concluded that no. of
approvals has a moderately significant impact on overall delay in sample delivery. As
the no. of approvals tends to increase, there is a fair likelihood that it might lead to
increased delay.

9.5 Technology Adoption in Apparel Industry

9.5.1 Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP)

The ERP software is a conglomeration of departmental activities combined into a

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single software that replaces the conventional MRP and MRPII tools.
The ERP software consists of various modules. The ERP software provider will offer
many modules, which may be selected according to the garment company's needs.
There are two categories for the modules: technical and commercial. The activities
carried out in each department are primarily indicated by these modules.

Table 11 ERP modules table

Benefits from ERP include those related to operations, management, strategy, IT

infrastructure, and organizations. According to a study by Gattiker et al., ERP enables
businesses to reliably and consistently fulfill their client commitments. It makes data
collection simple and gives information in the appropriate context and at the right
time.
The ERP providers are classified as Tier I, II and III. The major players, such as SAP
and Oracle, are categorized as Tier I and provide their improved capabilities to large
industries. Tier II suppliers, who cater to medium-sized businesses, include Infor,
Epicor, Intex, Datatex, and Ramco. Tier III providers, which cater to small businesses,
include Apparel Connect and A2000. Additionally, the ERP system suppliers market
their companies in various methods. SaaS, PaaS, and IaaS are available. The
functionality, features, and utilization of the ERP systems all affect how much they
cost.
Based on secondary research, SAP Business One and Oracle Netsuite are ERP
programs that large clothing firms can employ; however, they need to be tailored to
the specific needs of the clothing company. Additionally, garment Connect, Polygon

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Software, and A2000 create garment-specific ERP packages that cover every task
carried out in an apparel firm. It's also discovered that they have a lot of qualities that
can benefit traders, buying houses, and makers of clothing.

• Apparel Connect: This ERP software was created specifically with

clothing manufacturers and buying houses in mind. It is a software
development business situated in Bangkok. Purchasing homes, OEM
producers, CMT/CMPT companies, as well as fabric and apparel dealers,
can all benefit from it. The nicest thing about this ERP is that it can be
used to purchase houses for multi-dimensional costing and multi-option
sourcing, which opens up choices for dealing with day-to-day adjustments.

Figure 20 Apparel connect style cost sheet interface

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 Figure 21 Apparel connect style updating sheet interface

• A2000: A2000 ERP is rated as the highest customer satisfaction provider

by Apparel magazine. This software helps designers, manufacturers,
wholesalers and retailers. It makes the interaction between all the
stakeholders easy and in real time. The various other modules available are
SCM, MRP, warehouse management, EDI, vendor portal and finance.

9.5.2 GrowMIND IT Solutions – BMS System

”We developed Buying House Management System, which is

windows based, cloud hosted and also run on intranet based. Our
software connects Buying House, Multiples Buyers and Factories.

This system manages all types of activities related to buying agency.

Keep track of Buyer Orders & Processing, Shipment Details, Short
Ship and Overship, Documentation, Invoicing, Bill of Materials ,
Factories Productions, Quality Control and TNA (Time and Action)
(with TNA we managed all production activities of factories level,
Follow up with email alert)”

➢ List of Features
• Buyer Order Processing & Tracking
• Factory Order Processing & Tracking
• Style Wise Product Costing
• Merchandise

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 • Design & Sample Tracking
• Bill of Materials (BOM)
• Time and Action (TNA)
• QC (Quality Control) - Inspections
• Factory Production
• Document Management
• Commission Invoice, Consignee Invoice, Sampling Invoice & Non-
Commercial Invoice
• Buyer Order & Shipment Tracking
• MIS Reports

9.5.3 RDPL-APPS Buying House Solution

“APPS™ - Manufacturing is a full-fledged ERP application that

covers all the activities that take place in an apparel/ made-ups/
textile/ leather manufacturing company. It tracks the entire life
cycle of the product development right from design
conceptualization to order fulfilment.”

It covers 3 broad segments including merchandising, procurement and production

planning.

Figure 22 RDPL-APPS product solutions

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 10. Strategy Formulation

It spans over a period of 4 weeks starting from March 21, 2024 to April 19, 2024
covering a number of strategies and actions encompassing all the phases of the
sampling process.

Triburg Onboarding Optimisation Program (TOOP)

A Comprehensive Framework for Streamlined Buyer Onboarding and Sampling
The Triburg Onboarding Optimization Program (TOOP) framework combines best
practices from Kanban methodology, Performance Dashboard, and a Single Point of
Contact (POC) approach to create a structured and efficient sampling process for new
textile buyers (CECE & Vince Camuto) collaborating with JIVA Designs.

Figure 23 Implementation plan roadmap

A mix of tools and techniques will be employed over a period of 2 weeks, after which,
feedback will be sought from key stakeholders. The feedback obtained will be
integrated within the model framework, post which, it will be further observed for 2
more weeks. After that, we will move ahead with the final leg of the project report,
i.e., data analysis and comparative study followed up by conclusion and
recommendation.

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10.1 Strategy implementation for the sampling process
Phase 1: Initial Contact
Goal: Establish communication channels, expectations, and a shared design vision.
• Virtual Kick-off Meeting: Schedule a video conference with representatives
from CECE, Vince Camuto, Triburg sampling department, and JIVA Designs.
• Establish a clear agenda focusing on:
• Project overview and timelines
• Communication channels and preferred methods (email, phone, etc.)
• Roles and responsibilities of each stakeholder
➢ Design Language Deep Dive:
• Triburg sampling department facilitates a discussion to understand the
buyer's vision and identify potential challenges.
• Develop a shared design vocabulary to ensure clear communication
throughout the sampling process.
➢ Pre-qualification Questionnaire with questions about:
• Product category and desired product features.
• Budgetary considerations and expected sample quantities.
• Preferred communication channels and language.
The questionnaire can be integrated into the portal for seamless completion.

Phase 2: Sample Development & Communication

Goal: Streamline sample development with efficient communication and feedback
loops.
Strategies & Actions
10.1.1 Kanban Board
According to the Project Management Institute, a kanban board is a "visualization tool
that shows work in progress to help identify bottlenecks and overcommitments,
thereby allowing the team to optimize the workflow."
Kanban boards visually depict work at various stages of a process using cards to
represent work items and columns to represent each stage of the process.

Here, we are approaching the problem in this study from the perspective of project
management. Hence, a Kanban board is proposed to be used as a collaboration and
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visualisation tool for the purpose of optimising the sampling process. The focus of
this tool would be to give more clarity to employee assignments and responsibilities,
status of individual styles under consideration, tracking the key performance
indicators (KPIs) and overall workflow. The board is visible and accessible to all
stakeholders involved in the sampling workflow.
Functionality
It consists of 2 broad elements:
➢ The Cards Template
It consists of a list of all the styles categorized by brands. Each style
corresponds to a unique Kanban Card with a unique card number and style
name. The table contains all the details about the styles such as:
• Card no.
• Style name
• Assignee
• Priority Level
• Start date
• Due date
• Completion status
• Submission date
• Duration/Lead time
• Delay
Given below is the preview of the Cards Template. The template highlights
the new 17 styles that have been taken into consideration for implementation
and comparative study to assess an impact of the strategy on process
efficiency. We will add 3 more styles in coming days to bring the total to 20
styles for presenting a better comparative study against the older 20 styles
taken initially.

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Table 12 Kanban cards template as on March 21, 2024

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The cells in the above template have been automated to some extent by using the
excel formulas and other features including data validation and conditional
formatting.

The Cards
Each card is colour coded as per the brand it belongs to as well as priority
level. It consists of the following details:
• Card no.
• Style name
• Assignee
• Start date
• Due date
• Priority level

There are 3 colours of cards:

• Blue: For VC
• Yellow: For CECE
• Red: For Priority style

Figure 24 A sample card for a style

➢ The Board: The board is divided into columns representing different stages of
the sampling workflow. All the styles are put on the board in the form of cards
and are then tracked everyday to check their progress, identify any bottlenecks
and adjust priorities. The red cards are prioritized to move fast. It also houses a
card deck to pick additional cards for new styles.
The Stages
There are a total of 4 stages in the Kanban board. These are:
• To Do - Holds new styles which have not yet been sent to the factory.
• In Progress - Consists of styles actively being worked on with all the
initial approvals received.
• On Hold/Awaiting Approval - Those styles which have raised queries

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 or await further approvals while being worked on.
• Complete - Signifies completed styles/cards for a buyer.

Every card/style starts from the first stage, i.e., To Do, and makes progress as
it moves along the remaining stages horizontally. As it moves from one stage
to the next, completion status also changes with increased percentage of work
completed.
WIP Limits: There are WIP limits set for “On Hold/Awaiting Approval” and
“In Progress” stages. If the number of cards in that particular stage exceeds the
limit, cards would turn to gray colour and will need to move to the next stage
before any card from the previous stage is allowed to move, or WIP would
need to be increased. This triggers a discount for a brief time which needs to
be reported and documented.
There is no defined formula for ascertaining WIP limits for respective stages,
it primarily depends upon the team size, the capacity and utilisation rate. This
gives rise to the custom formula that is developed to be used in this project:
Given,
Team Size = 5, Utilization Rate = 80%
Hence,
WIP limit (for “On Hold/Approval Awaited” stage)
= (Team Size × Utilization Rate) + 1
= (5 × 0.8) + 1
= 5.
WIP limit (for “In Progress” stage)
= [(Team Size × Utilization Rate) + 1] × 2
= [(5 × 0.8) + 1] × 2
= 10.

The Kanban board has been developed and ready for implementation as on
March 21, 2024. The below picture shows the actual position of the style cards
on Kanban board as on March 21, 2024. It shows that most of the styles are in
To Do stage, this is so because styles have been added only a few days back
(some are added on the previous day as well).

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Figure 25 Kanban board as on March 21, 2024

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10.1.2 Performance Dashboard
A dashboard is a kind of graphical user interface used in computer information
systems that frequently offers quick views of data pertinent to a specific goal or
procedure by combining summary information and visuals. Typically, the
"dashboard" is connected to data sources that are updated frequently. Dashboards let
customers study the data on their own and are frequently interactive. The word
"dashboard" comes from the dashboard of a vehicle, where the instrument panel
allows drivers to quickly view the main operations.
Dashboards can be broken down according to role and are either strategic, analytical,
operational, or informational. Strategic dashboards help managers at all
organizational levels by giving decision-makers the brief summary they need to keep
an eye on the state and prospects of the company. These kinds of dashboards
concentrate on high-level performance indicators and projections. Static data
snapshots (daily, weekly, monthly, and quarterly) that are not continuously changing
from one second to the next are beneficial for strategic dashboards.
Benefits of using digital dashboards include:
➢ Visual presentation of performance measures
➢ Ability to identify and correct negative trends
➢ Measure efficiencies/inefficiencies
➢ Ability to generate detailed reports showing new trends
➢ Ability to make more informed decisions based on collected business
intelligence

Performance Dashboard: Performance management and business intelligence are

two important fields that come together to generate a performance dashboard. As a
result, different users may utilize these dashboards for various purposes. Workers at
one level may check inventory, for instance, while those in more managerial positions
may look at trailing measures. Executives could then assess strategic performance in
relation to goals by using the dashboard.
A process performance dashboard can be utilized to keep a track of overall
performance of the sampling department across brands and stakeholders. This digital
dashboard is dynamic and interactive. This means that whenever new styles and data
is added to the datasheet, it automatically gets updated in the dashboard. Also, one

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can easily interact with the dashboard to monitor performance for brand, employee,
completion stage, month, etc. This results in key insights pertaining to these areas
while keeping the dashboard updated with real time performance monitoring.

The dashboard has been made with the help of excel formulas, pivot tables and
visualization techniques. KPIs have been linked to the data to present a real-time
picture to the analyst.

Table 13 Pivot tables for dashboard

Required data from Kanban board, cards template and pivot tables has been
successfully linked to the dashboard to obtain true values for all the KPIs and
visualisations. Dashboard as on March 21, 2024 highlighting metrics based on the
performance of old styles is as follows:

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Figure 26 Dashboard preview as on March 21, 2024

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10.1.3 Single Point of Contact (POC)
During the sample production process, communication between the factory and
sampling department remains unstructured. It sometimes loses the promptness and
also creates confusion. One of the reasons for this is multiple points of contact
between JIVA Designs and Triburg. Hence, it is advisable to designate a single point
of contact (POC) for each or all brands within the sampling department to manage
communication between the factory and internal stakeholders.

The objectives of having one designated POC include:

➢ Acts as the central hub for information exchange and updates regarding the
buyer's project.
➢ Consolidates communication, ensuring everyone receives timely and
consistent information.
➢ Manages and prioritizes requests from the factory to avoid confusion and
duplication of efforts.
➢ Maintains clear and concise communication records for future reference and
knowledge sharing.

Phase 3: Finalization & Delivery

Goal: Ensure timely delivery of high-quality samples and gather valuable feedback.
➢ On-Time Delivery:
• Prioritize production tasks based on deadlines and communicate delays
proactively to buyers.
• Collaborate with the factory to optimize production scheduling and
logistics for timely delivery.
➢ Sample Approval Process:
• Define a clear and documented sample approval process with deadlines.
• Include an escalation procedure for resolving any outstanding issues
within a specified timeframe.
➢ Standardized Operating Procedures (SOPs):
• Document SOPs in a centralized repository accessible to all stakeholders.
• Develop SOPs for each stage of the sampling workflow, outlining roles,
responsibilities, and timelines.

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10.2 Training and continuous improvement
There is a need to train the staff on the TOOP framework, communication skills, and
buyer design language preferences. Introduce the Kanban technique and its
advantages to all the stakeholders participating in the onboarding procedure. Train
team members how to use the Kanban board, set WIP limits, and adhere to Kanban
principles.
Training objectives include:
• Equip all employees with a thorough understanding of the TOOP framework
and its benefits.
• Develop the skills and knowledge necessary to utilise he Kanban platform
effectively.
• Foster clear communication protocols based on the POC's role.
• Promote a culture of continuous improvement through Gemba Kaizen
principles.

The training program can incorporate the following to cater to different learning styles
and knowledge levels:
➢ Briefing sessions (1-2 hours)
• Schedule briefing sessions at the beginning of the implementation to give
an overview of the framework and the platform.
• Tailor sessions based on the specific needs of different teams or roles
within the sampling department.
• Use visual aids such as slides, flowcharts, and examples to illustrate key
points effectively.
• Encourage active participation by allowing time for questions and
discussions.
➢ Online certificate courses (2-4 hours, self-paced)
• Identify reputable online learning platforms or courses that offer
certification in relevant areas.
• Allocate dedicated time and resources for team members to complete
courses, either during work hours or as part of professional development
initiatives.
• Use resources such as pre-recorded video lectures, interactive quizzes,
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 downloadable resources.
• Completion of a short online quiz to assess learning and award a certificate
upon successful completion.
➢ Inhouse workshops (4-6 hours, interactive)
• Conduct in-person training sessions or workshops to familiarize
stakeholders with the refined strategy and methodologies.
• Identify specific areas or skills that require development.
• Invite internal or external subject matter experts to lead workshops or
training sessions on relevant topics.
• Structure workshops to include a combination of hands-on exercises, case
studies and group discussions to facilitate active learning and engagement.
• Create printed papers or handouts that stakeholders can use as guidelines
for reference.

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 11. Iterations Based on Feedback

Feedback is a valuable tool for assessing the effectiveness of our strategies,

identifying areas for improvement, and making informed decisions to enhance the
overall outcomes of the project. After 2 weeks of implementation, we actively
solicited feedback for the TOOP program from respective stakeholders.
Below are the snippets of Cards Template and Kanban Board, as on April 6, 2024,
highlighting the status of the styles:

Table 14 Cards template during feedback as on April 6, 2024

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Figure 27 Kanban board during feedback as on April 6, 2024

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The gathered insights have been instrumental in identifying areas for improvement
and ensuring the continued effectiveness of the TOOP program.
The following outlines the key themes and actionable insights extracted from the
feedback analysis:

11.1 Open Access Problem

One of the main feedback points is a concern regarding open access of the platform to
all the stakeholders. Triburg raised the concern where, in the current scenario, all
stakeholders have unrestricted access to Cards template, Kanban board and the
dashboard.
This, according to the company, compromises their position in the value chain. A
direct exposure of the buyer and the factory to each other, bypassing the company,
would be problematic for Triburg from multiple points of view, i.e., business, costing,
etc.

Figure 28 Stakeholder communication relationship

To address this concern, we come up with the following alteration to the platform
access:
➢ Only the sampling department of Triburg possesses complete access to the
platform including Kanban board, cards template, dashboard and the
datasheets in the back-end. It remains for internal control purposes.
➢ Meanwhile, only daily/weekly performance or status reports for the concerned
styles will be shared with other stakeholders – the factory and the buyer, as per
company’s discretion.

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11.2 Need for Automation
Feedback from stakeholders highlights the need for automation and digitisation of
processes. They expressed a desire for increased automation.
Stakeholders have expressed concerns about manual, time-consuming tasks that could
be automated, such as data entry, file sharing, and communication.
To address this need, we made some changes to the board and tried to improve it
while keeping in mind the objective of creating a more automated process and easier
navigation across the board. For this, 3 icons have been added to each card that is
generated against any style.

By clicking on this icon on any card, a pop-up will appear on the screen containing all
the information with respect to the area that that icon denotes to for the respective
card style. One can enlarge the pop-up window into a full tab to examine complete
information in detail or simply close the pop-up.
These icons contain information regarding different aspects of the styles which are as
follows:

➢ Files and Materials ( ): It stores all the files and relevant materials
belonging to the respective card style.

➢ Comments and Updates: ( ): It contains all the details regarding

comments, notes and updates made on a style by all the stakeholders along
with date and time.

➢ Process Flow ( ): This icon gives the information about current position of
any style within the “In Progress” stage. So, this stage has been divided into 5
sub-stages for a better monitoring. This added level of process flow tracks a
style more promptly. These sub-stages are:
• Pattern Development
• Fabric and Trims Arrangement
• Cutting and Sewing
• Measurement & Visual QC
• Thread Trimming and Ironing

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 Figure 29 Preview of a pop-up in feedback integrated Kanban board

We are investigating the feasibility of implementing additional automated workflows

within the chosen platform by:

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 ➢ Exploring automation tools to streamline repetitive tasks, improve data
accessibility, and enhance collaboration among team members.
➢ Identifying specific processes or workflows that can be automated, such as:
• Movement of cards from one stage to next on Kanban.
• Email prompts to concerned employees about style progress along the
board and for any action required, say, WIP limit extension.
• Automated card creation for new styles.

For this purpose, we can leverage different host of services. These are:
➢ Cloud Network: Cloud-based infrastructure coupled with tools would provide
a more efficient, real-time, fit for large scale dataset type of platform.
However, it depends on the final results at the end of strategy implementation
and need of the department in terms of number of orders whether we should be
going ahead with scaling up of this platform or not.
There are a number of cloud network providers like Google, Amazon,
Microsoft, IBM, etc. We can partner with technology enablers to provide an
automated platform based on cloud network of these companies and
customized to our requirements.
➢ Project Management Platforms: We can also make use of system’s software
and third-party project management platform providers to get an automated
product satisfying our requirements. But it might or might not be
customizable.
These include:
• Microsoft Power Automate
• Zapier
• Trello
• Jira
• Power BI

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Figure 30 Platform-based Kanban settings preview

Figure 31 Platform-based Kanban board

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11.3 Files, notes and reference materials
Stakeholders requested the ability to upload notes, files, and reference materials
directly within the platform. Feedback from team members indicates that the current
process for sharing and collaborating on documents or materials is fragmented and
inefficient, leading to confusion and duplication of efforts.
This can be achieved by:
➢ Implementing a collaborative document management system that allows
stakeholders to upload, annotate, and share notes, feedback, and reference
materials in real-time.
➢ Exploring options for integrating feedback and collaboration features into
existing platforms or tools used by the project team, such as project
management software or platforms.

11.4 T-x Deliverables & Accountability

It was also observed over these 2 weeks of implementation that there were no clear set
of deliverables defined while the styles progressed from ‘To Do’ stage to ‘Complete’
stage. These could be in the form of periodic milestones. Assigning tasks to these
milestones would ensure progress is made well ahead of the final sample submission
deadline.
There can be 2 or more milestones that can be included:
➢ T-10: These tasks might include finalizing tech packs along with buyer
approvals for fabric, material, pattern, colour, etc., sourcing approved
materials, getting the costing estimates aligned and initiating sample
production at JIVA Designs.
➢ T-5: These tasks could involve sample completion, quality control checks
documented with photos, and initial buyer feedback loop. Getting these tasks
done would give the green light for sample packaging and shipment.

These deadlines are subjective. Hence, these can be modified as per the requirements,
for example, T-7 or T-3.

We have identified 2 ways of integrating these deliverables into the Kanban board:
➢ Set up additional columns on the board for T-x milestones within the ‘In
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 Progress’ stage using sub-stages, representing the tasks due before the style
moves to the next stage.
➢ Or these could also be added to the respective cards as checklists which need
to be ticked off before a card can reach the ‘Complete’ stage.

Additionally, these deadlines can be visualized on the cards or the dashboard using
progress bars or countdown timers within cards for improved transparency.

Another objective that is achieved with this methodology is setting accountability.

Putting name of the assignee on the cards alone would not serve the purpose. Hence,
the above measures of targeting ‘T-x’ deliverables along with visualization and ‘WIP’
limit restrictions would help to create tangible responsibility which needs to be
accounted for by somebody, thus, creating accountability as well.

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 12. Comparative Study

After implementing the feedback collected from key stakeholders, we kept a track of
the styles for 2 more weeks until April 19, 2024. By that time, all the styles had
completed their due submissions. We collected the data based on same metrics that
we identified for problem identification in the beginning before the implementation.
This helps us perform a comparative study for analysing the impact of the
implementation plan on delay time and other KPIs by putting the styles observed
before implementation against those observed after that.

Here are the results obtained after implementing the suggested strategies and
extensive feedback over a course of 4 weeks:

Table 15 New styles datasheet for sample delay time and causes after implementation

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 Table 16 Reason wise delay

Table 17 Brand wise delay

We have taken 7 styles in VC and 13 in CECE for analysis purpose. There are 5 broad
reasons for communication inefficiency and delay time.
In brand-wise analysis, while total delay time shows that CECE exceeds VC by great
margin (27 days), the average delay per style for VC is slightly more than CECE, by
about 14.08%.s
"Specification Mismatch" occurs the greatest number of times, i.e., 4. It causes the
most delay with 40 days. Whereas, "Teckpack Awaited" is the least contributing
factor to the overall delay with only 2 occurrences and 12 days of delay across brands
and styles. Hence, Specification Mismatch seems to be causing more than one third of
the delay, i.e., 40 days out of 113 in total.

Factors causing Delay

45 4.5
40 4
35 3.5
30 3
25 2.5
20 2
15 1.5
10 1
5 0.5
0 0
Specification Fabric/Lining Original Sample Pattern/MAP Techpack
Mismatch Awaited Awaited Awaited Awaited

Total Delay (Days) Frequency

Figure 32 Factors causing delay in new styles

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Kanban (As on April 19, 2024)
Below is the Cards Template at the last.

Table 18 Final cards template as on April 19, 2024

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Dashboard (As on April 19, 2024)

Figure 33 Dashboard for new styles as on April 19, 2024

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12.1 Comparison Results
After comparing the results, we see an astonishing change in numbers in the data.
These results are discussed as follows:
➢ Total and Average Delay: Total delay for 20 styles across both the brands
came down from 180 days to 113 days. This makes the case for an
improvement rate of 37.2% over a span of 4 weeks. Similarly, average delay
has also reduced from 9 days to 5.65 days in total.
➢ CECE: For CECE, total delay has reduced from 94 days to 70 days, showing
an improvement rate of 25.53%, which is fairly decent. Meanwhile, average
delay showed a better improvement rate of 31.29%, reduced from 9.83 days to
5.38 days.
➢ VC: For VC though, results are even better than expected. The total delay
decreased by half from 86 days to 43 days, with a reduction rate of exactly
50%, while the average delay decreased from 10.75 days to 6.14 days per
style, signifying an improvement of 42.88%.
➢ Reason for Delay: Initially, “Pattern/MAP Awaited” was the most prominent
reason for overall delay in sample submissions across styles, with 50% share.
However, after the implementation, “Specification Mismatch” emerged as the
most contributing factor for delay, with 35.40%. This result points to some
very interesting findings:
• “Specification Mismatch” being the cause for most delay might mean
that awaiting various approvals has reduced in aggregate. This means
that there has been a close watch over approval status of different
styles. One of the reasons for this could be a better monitoring of the
styles, which can be a direct result of improved visualisation of
sampling process through Kanban board.
• Another insight is related to the skewness of the data. Earlier, one factor
was causing exactly half of the total delay, and the other half was
caused by rest of the 4 factors. Now, after the implementation, one
factor is causing slightly more than one third of the total delay, and the
rest is shared by other 4 factors more evenly. This shows that initially,
delay was skewed but now it is more normally distributed.

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12.2 KPI Performance Results from the Dashboard
Almost all the KPIs have shown a positive change over the course of these 4 weeks.
These changes are as follows:
➢ Average Lead Time (Duration): The time it takes to complete the
submission from the date of receiving the techpack has reduced from 28.9
days to 23.9 days per style.
➢ On-time Delivery Rate: The percentage of styles which were submitted on or
before the due date without causing any delay has also increased from 27% to
40%, i.e., 8 out of 20 styles had a delay time 0 days.
➢ Buyer Satisfaction Score: Based on the feedback that is usually received
from the buyer post sample submission, a satisfaction rating is derived. This
has also increased from 3.2 to 3.8 overall. This certainly points towards an
improved efficiency of the sampling process and performance of the
department. However, it is below the target score of 4 and above.
➢ Delay by Month: It is observed from the chart that total delay caused was
highest during the January and February, took a dip in March and again
jumped in April, but remains below previous months.
➢ Delay by Brand: It can also be observed from the dashboard that delay in
terms of brand concentration has risen. Earlie, it was 48%-52% for VC-CECE,
which now is 38%-62%. This shows that CECE as a brand is contributing to a
bigger proportion of total delay. We need increased focus on CECE.
➢ No. of Updates/Approvals: Combined no. of approvals and updates for all
the styles has reduced slightly from 35 to 30, which is an improvement,
nonetheless.

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 13. Conclusion

This project implemented the Triburg Onboarding Optimisation Program (TOOP)

utilising a Kanban board and a data-driven dashboard. The implementation of our
strategy has significantly enhanced the efficiency and transparency of sampling
workflow and communication processes.

Stakeholder feedback was actively solicited and integrated to refine the program
throughout the implementation process. Through the integration of feedback loops,
we were able to identify areas for improvement and make necessary adjustments,
resulting in a more streamlined and effective workflow.

A comparative study was conducted to assess the efficiency and performance of the
TOOP framework compared to the previous onboarding process. The comparative
study revealed notable improvements across key metrics, including cycle time
reduction, improved task visibility, and enhanced collaboration among stakeholders.

Key Findings:
➢ The Kanban board facilitated improved task visualization, streamlined
workflow, and enhanced collaboration within the sample production process.
➢ The integrated dashboard provided real-time insights into project progress,
enabling proactive monitoring which would help in issue identification and
data-driven decision making to address the same.
➢ Stakeholder feedback played a crucial role in identifying areas for
improvement and ensuring the program's effectiveness.
➢ The comparative study revealed significant improvements in key performance
indicators (KPIs) such as average lead time, task completion rates, and
adherence to deadlines.

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 14. Recommendations

Traditional process optimisation and performance management efforts in the apparel

industry often prioritise the production floor. This project addresses a gap by focusing
on the sampling department, specifically aiming to find inefficiencies, and
formulating a strategy to streamline the onboarding process for new textile buyers.

This problem has been approached through the lens of project management. To
address these inefficiencies, a Kanban methodology was adopted to be used as a
visualisation tool. A replica of the same was created on Excel to showcase the
performance of an actual board on a platform. There are multiple available options for
a platform-based Kanban in the market, with real-time updates and high automation.
These can be explored with proper due diligence concerning cost-benefit analysis
given that we have obtained positive improvements in our project implementation.
Based on the success of this project, the following recommendations are made for
further optimisation:
➢ Advanced Automation: Explore opportunities for further automation within
the Kanban board or chosen platform to improve efficiency and reduce manual
workload. This may include exploring additional cloud-based solutions or
integrating advanced automation tools into our workflow.
➢ Knowledge Sharing: Organize knowledge-sharing sessions to ensure all team
members are proficient in utilizing the Kanban board, interpreting data from
the dashboard and cloud-based tools.

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 15. Limitations of the Project

The project has yielded positive results on the lines of expectations. However, there
can be certain limitations which might affect the relevance or utility of it. These are:

➢ Sampling Bias: The styles for the purpose of the analysis have been chosen
based on random stratified sampling method. Efforts were made to prevent
any prioritisation of one style over another. Conducting a future analysis to
assess the effectiveness of the TOOP program across a broader range of buyer
styles would provide more comprehensive insights and ensure a better
representation.
➢ Scope Constraints: The project focused primarily on streamlining the
onboarding process within the sampling department of the apparel industry.
Broader organisational or industry-wide challenges were not thoroughly
explored.
➢ Data Availability: The project relied on the data readily available within the
organisation. Additional data points or deeper analysis might reveal further
optimisation opportunities.
➢ Technology Constraints: While efforts were made to leverage technology
solutions such as Excel-based Kanban board, the project did not fully explore
the potential of more advanced platform-based Kanban and Dashboard tools.
Limited access to these tools due to resource constraints may have restricted
the scope of technological implementation.
➢ Evaluation Metrics/Benchmarking: The evaluation of project outcomes
relied primarily on internal performance metrics and feedback mechanisms.
While efforts were made to collect and analyse relevant data, the absence of
external benchmarks or industry standards may limit the ability to objectively
assess the project's success.

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