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Food Coom
Food Coom
Food Coom
Puree soups
Many puree soups are based on dried beans, Great Northern, navy, or black beans, lentils, and split
peas, for example. Beans other than lentils and split peas may be soaked for several hours before
cooking. Relatively starchy vegetables such as potatoes, squash, or celery root are often the base for
other puree soups. These have to be peeled and diced or sliced. Even though these ingredients are
pureed, relative uniformity of cut size is necessary for the ingredients to cook evenly. Aromatic
ingredients such as onions, garlic, carrots, and celery are often found in puree soups. Vegetables may
be roasted or grilled beforehand for extra flavor.
Water, broth, and stock are the most frequently used base liquids. Check the freshness of broths or
stocks that have been stored before using them in a soup. Many puree soups based on a legume call
for a bit of rendered salt pork, smoked ham, bacon, or other cured pork products. In some instances,
these ingredients should be blanched first to remove any excess salt. An alternative is to use a ham-
based broth. Besides cured pork, ingredients used to season puree soups are as diverse as chiles, dried
mushrooms, hot sauce, citrus zest or juice, and vinegar. Garnishes include chopped herbs, croutons,
diced meats, toasted or fried tortillas , salsas, and dollops of sour cream. Equipment requirements for
making puree soups are quite similar to those for cream soups. Have wooden spoons, ladles, and
skimmers available throughout the cooking process. Pureeing equipment such as a food m ill or
blender is necessary to finish the soup. You will also need containers for cooling or holding the soup.
basic formula
Puree Soup (1 gal/3.84 L)
Flavorings such as salt pork, smoked ham, or bacon
1 lb /454 g Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243) or other aromatic vegetables
1 gal/3.84 L stock or broth for soups made with potatoes or starchy vegetables; or 5 q t/4.80 L stock or
broth for soups made with legumes,
4 lb/1.81 kg vegetables, such as potatoes and/or squash or 1½ to 2 lb /680 to 907 g dried legumes,
such as lentils.
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices or Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
Seasonings and other flavorings, such as salt and pepper, tomatoes, lemon juice, or vinegar
Finishing and garnishing ingredients such as croutons, fresh herbs, or diced ham
Note: This formula varies based on the starch content of the main ingredient being used. Dried
legumes have different starch contents from starchy vegetables such as butternut squash or potatoes.
The amount of stock being used and the time allotted for proper cooking will vary based on starch
content.
method at-a-glance>>
1. Sweat the vegetables.
2. Add the liquid.
3. Establish a simmer.
4. Add the main ingredient, if not added in step 1.
5. Add the sachet d’epices or bouquet garni.
6. Discard the bouquet garni or sachet d’epices when the proper flavor is reached.
7. Strain.
8. Puree the solids.
9. Reincorporate the liquid to the proper consistency.
10. Cool and store, or finish and garnish for service.
method in detail>>
2. add the remaining ingredients and the liquid at the appropriate intervals. Add dry, dense,
tough, fibrous, or starchy ingredients (dry beans, root
vegetables, winter squash, for instance) at the beginning of
cooking time, usually as soon as the stock or broth has
reached a simmer. Sim m er until the soup is well flavored
and all the ingredients are very tender, 25 to 30 minutes for
soups made with starchy vegetables or potatoes or 45
minutes to 1 hour for soup made with dried legumes.
Stir the soup frequently as it cooks to prevent starchy
ingredients from sticking to the bottom of the pot. Skim the
soup as it cooks to remove any impurities or scum, and
adjust seasoning as necessary. Add a sachet d'epices or
bouquet garni during the final 30 minutes of cooking time.
Typically, a ham hock broth is cooked for 3 to 5 hours in
advance of preparing the puree soup. Once the hocks are
cooked, the resulting broth can be used as the liquid base for
the soup. Remove the pork from the soup once it has added
the desired flavor. Cut the lean m eat into neat dice and
reserve to add as a garnish.
3. strain out a small portion of the cooking
liquid and reserve for adjusting the final consistency of the
soup. Puree the remaining solids and liquid and adjust
seasoning and consistency. Different types of pureeing
equipment will produce different textures in the finished
soup. Blenders and immersion blenders produce very
smooth soups with a very fine consistency. As hot puree
soups sit, the starchy main ingredients may continue to
absorb liquid and thicken the soup. Check the consistency in
termittently and adjust as necessary. A t this point, the soup
is ready to be finished and garnished for service or rapidly
cooled and refrigerated.
basic formula>>
Bisque (1 gal/3.84 L)
2 lb/907 g of one or more main flavoring ingredients, such as crustacean shells (shrimp, crab, lobster,
or a combination)
1 lb/454 g Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243)
Tomato paste or puree
A thickening agent such as Blond Roux (see page 246), flour, or rice (whole grains or flour), if not
using a prepared velouté
1 gal/3.84 L liquid (shellfish stock, fumet, broth, or shellfish veloute)
Seasonings and flavorings, such as salt and pepper, paprika, Standard Sachet d'Epices or Standard
Bouquet Garni (page 241)
Finishing and garnishing ingredients, such as 16 floz/480 mL heavy cream, diced or other cuts of
cooked shrimp, lobster, or crab; sherry
method at-a-glance
1.Sear the crustacean shells in a fat. Remove the shells from the pan.
2. Add the mirepoix and sweat.
3. Add the tomato product and pingage.
4. Add the alcohol, if using, and reduce au sec.
5. Incorporate the roux, if using.
6. Add the liquid and sachet d'epices or bouquet garni. Add the shells back to the pan.
7. Simmer and skim.
8. Discard the bouquet garni or sachet d'epices when the proper flavor is reached.
9. Strain.
10. Puree the solids.
11. Reincorporate the liquid to the proper consistency
12. Strain.
13. Cool and store, or finish and garnish for service.
expert tips>>
To thicken, any one of the following may be used depending on the desired results
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor. Add the ingredient at the
appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later so
that they retain their individual flavor and/or texture.
Garnishing abisque is yet another way to introduce and influence flavors. Garnishing ingredients
cut to the appropriate size and desired shape are added at the very end of the cooking process or just
before service.
For a healthier option: Use pureed vegetables (especially those high in starch) to thicken the soup in
place of roux, veloute, or flour. Replace cream with evaporated skim milk to reduce calories and fat.
Bisque
1.rinse the shells well and chop larger shells, such as crab or lobster. Drain and dry
them well. Traditional bisques get their color and
flavor from shrimp, lobster, crab, or crayfish shells.
Use one type of crustacean or a com bination.
Brown the shells in the cooking fat, stirring
frequently, until they turn a bright pink or red and
remove them from the pan.
Method in detail>>
2. add the mirepoix to the pan and cook it over medium heat for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the
vegetables are tender and the onions are light brown. Tomato paste is often added at this point and
allowed to cook until it has a sweet aroma and a deep rust color. Add spices such as paprika to the
shells and other aromatics to cook in the fat.
1. Blend the mirepoix, ground beef, egg whites, salt, tomatoes, and the sachet ingredients. Allow to
macerate for 1 to 2 hours if time permits.
2 Heat the stock to approximately 1oo°F/38°C in a stockpot sized to accommodate all the ingredients.
Add the clarification mixture to the stock. Stir to combine thoroughly.
3. Bring the mixture to 145°F/63°C, stirring frequently until the raft just begins to form, 8 to 10
minutes. Look for the proteins to start to float and form small quarter-size clumps with lighter,
unclarified broth between them. Once raft forms, firmly create a small hole in part of the raft. If using,
add the oignons brules to the stock near the hole.
4. Simmer slowly at approximately 18o°F/82°C until the appropriate flavor and clarity is achieved
(see page 309), 1 to 1 ½ hours. Baste the raft occasionally through the opening. Always taste to make
sure the consomme has developed full flavor before straining.
5. Strain the consomme through a damp paper filter or rinsed doubled cheesecloth: Use a ladle to push
down on the raft carefully at the hole and allow the broth to flow into the ladle before pouring through
the filter. Repeat until the raft hits the bottom of the pot. Carefully tilt the broth into the ladle and do
not break the raft. Adjust seasoning with salt as needed. The consomme is now ready to finish, or may
be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Degrease the hot consomme by skimming or
blotting with paper towels, or lift the fat from the surface of the refrigerated consomme.
7. Taste the consomme and adjust seasoning with salt. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish as
desired.
NOTES: The aromatics can be added as a sachet (which will better control the flavor of the finished
product), or as loose ingredients.
If the first clarification was less than successful, clarify a second time by combining 1 gal/3.84 L cold
consomme with no more than 12 beaten egg whites, a small amount of mirepoix, and 1 tbsp/15 mL
chopped tomatoes. Bring the consomme slowly to a boil. As the egg whites coagulate, the impurities
will be trapped. This emergency measure, however, tends to remove not only the impurities but some
flavor as well.
Chicken Consomme Royale: Substitute an equal amount of White Mirepoix (page 243) for the
standard mirepoix, ground chicken for the ground beef, and Chicken Stock (page 263) for the white
beef stock. Simmer at approximately 180°F/82°C for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes. Garnish the
consomme with Royale Custard (recipe follows).
Royale Custard
Makes ninety 1-in/3-cm rounds
3 egg yolks
1 egg
6 floz /1 8 0 mL Chicken or White Beef Stock (page 263)
1/4 tsp/ 1 g salt, or as needed
Pinch ground white pepper, or as needed
1.Mix all the ingredients together and pour the custard into a buttered half hotel pan. The custard
should be no more than 3/8 in/9 mm thick.
2. Set the pan in a hot water bath and bake it in a 300°F/i49°C oven until just firm throughout, about
30 minutes.
3. Using a 1-in/3-cm round cutter, cut the custard into circles. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
NOTES: To ensure that the custard has a uniform thickness, select a hotel pan that has a completely
flat bottom and be sure that the rack inside the oven is level.
The royale may be cut into various shapes, such as diamonds or squares. The yield will vary
depending on the shape and size of the cutters used.
Chicken Broth
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Fish Broth: Replace the stewing hen with an equal amount of lean white fish, such as cod, halibut,
hake, flounder, or pike. Use White Mirepoix (page 243) to keep a light color.
Shellfish Broth: Replace the stewing hen with an equal amount of shrimp, lobster, crayfish, and/or
crab.
Onion Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
8 oz/227 g small-dice
bacon (optional; see
Notes).
1 lb/454 g minced Standard Mirepoix (page
243).
4 garlic cloves, minced.
2qt/2.88 L Chicken Stock (page 263).
9 oz/255 g Blond Roux (see page 246).
2 lb/907 g chopped plum tomatoes, fresh when in
season or canned.
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241), plus 2
cloves
16 fl oz/480 mL heavy cream, hot
4 tsp/12 g salt, or as needed
1 ¼ tsp/2.5 g ground white pepper, or as needed
GARNISH
8 oz/227 g Croutons (page 965)
1 . Render the bacon, if using, in a large sauce pot over medium heat, about 10 minutes. Add the
mirepoix and garlic. Sweat the vegetables over medium-high heat until tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Add the stock and bring to a boil. Whisk in the roux; blend well. Add the tomatoes, tomato puree,
and sachet. Simmer at 185°F/85°C until the tomatoes are cooked through, about 25 minutes.
3 . Remove and discard the sachet. Puree the soup until it is smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve.
Return it to a simmer slowly over medium-low heat and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes to adjust the
consistency.
4 . The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
5 . Return the soup to a simmer at 185°F/85°C for service. Add the cream and season with salt and
pepper. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serving with croutons.
NOTES: If not using bacon, sweat the mirepoix and garlic in 3 fl oz/90 mL vegetable oil.
If using a blender to puree the soup, the finished color will be slightly more orange than a soup pureed
using another method.
Cream o f Tomato Soup with Rice: Add 1 lb/454 g cooked long-grain white rice to the tomato soup
immediately before serving
4 lb/1.81 kg broccoli
2 fl o z/60 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
1 lb/454 g medium-dice White Mirepoix (page 243)
1 gal/3.84 L Chicken Veloute (page 294)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
16 fl oz/480 mL heavy cream, hot
2 tbsp/ 2 0 g salt, or as needed
1 ½ tsp/3 g ground black pepper, or as needed
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
1 . Remove the florets from the broccoli and reserve about 1 lb/454 g for garnish. Peel and dice the
stems.
2.. Heat the butter or oil in a large sauce pot over medium heat and add the mirepoix. Sweat until the
onions are translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the unreserved broccoli and sweat until the stems are
slightly tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
3 . Add the veloute and bring to a simmer at 185°F/85°C. Add the sachet. Reduce the heat and simmer
until the vegetables are fully cooked, about 35 minutes. Stir frequently and skim as needed.
4 . Cut the reserved florets into bite-size pieces, keeping their shape, and blanch in boiling salted
water until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Shock the florets in an ice bath and reserve for service.
5 . Discard the sachet. Puree the soup until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and discard
any fibers remaining in the strainer. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and
refrigerated for later service.
6 . Return the soup to a simmer at 185°F/85°C. Add the cream and season with salt, pepper, and
nutmeg. Heat the broccoli florets in simmering stock or water and garnish individual portions or the
entire batch. Serve in heated bowls or cups.
Cream of Asparagus (Creme Argenteuil): Replace the broccoli with an equal amount of asparagus
spears, reserving some of the asparagus tips for garnishing.
Cream of Celery (Creme de Celeri): Replace the broccoli with an equal amount of celery or celeriac.
Garnish with blanched small-dice celery.
GARNISH
8 oz/227 g Croutons (page 965), made from rye bread
1 . Melt the butter in a large soup pot or rondeau over medium heat. Sweat the onions, mushrooms,
celery, and garlic until the onions are translucent, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Add the stock and heat to 185°F/85°C. Whisk in the roux and thicken. Simmer at 185°F/85°C until
the soup has good flavor and a velvety texture, 30 minutes.
3 . Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and discard the solids. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may
be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer. Shortly before service, add the beer and cheese
and continue to heat the soup gently until the cheese melts. Do not boil.
5 . Blend the dry mustard with enough water to make a paste. Add the mustard mixture and the cream
to the soup and bring the soup back to a simmer. Adjust the consistency with stock, if necessary.
Season the soup with hot sauce, Worcestershire, salt, and pepper.
6 . Serve in heated bowls or cups with the croutons on the side.
1 . Steam the clams in the stock or water in a covered rondeau until they open, about 10 minutes.
2.. Decant and strain the broth through a filter or double layer of cheesecloth and reserve. Pick the
clams and chop and reserve the meat.
3 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot or rondeau over medium heat until the fat has melted and
the meat is crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the onions and celery and sweat until translucent, 6 to 7
minutes.
4 . Combine the reserved clam broth with enough additional stock or water to make 1 gal/3.84 L of
liquid. Add the liquid to the aromatics and bring to a simmer. Gradually add the roux to the stock and
whisk to incorporate completely, working out any lumps.
5 . Simmer at 185°F/85°C for 30 minutes, skimming the surface as necessary.
6 . Add the potatoes and sachet. Simmer until the potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. The soup is
ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
7 . Return the soup to a simmer for service. Add the reserved clams and cream. Season the soup with
salt, pepper, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce. Serve in heated bowls or cup.