The Classic Tailored Shirt Supplies &

with Pam Howard Instructions

Required and Optional Supplies

Required Supplies Women’s Shirt Fabric

• Use one of the following patterns with Suggested Fabrics: cotton, cotton types,
the class: Kwik Sew #3555 (Misses S-XL); shirtings, rayon & blends, chambray,
Kwik Sew #3027 (fitted version with darts, broadcloth.
Misses S-XL); Kwik Sew #3586 (plus-size); or
S-XL: at least 2½ yd of 45"-wide fabric OR
Kwik Sew #3422 (men’s version)
2 yd of 60"-wide fabric
• Size 12 universal or sharp sewing
machine needles 1X – 2 ⁵⁄₈ yd (45" wide) OR 2 yd (60" wide)
• Hand-sewing needles: Sharps and 2X – 2¾ yd (45" wide) OR 2 yd (60" wide)
at least one with a large eye
3X – 2 ⁷⁄₈ yd (45" wide) OR 2 yd (60" wide)
• Paper (to trace off your size from
the original if desired) 4X – 3 yd (45" wide) OR 21/8 yd (60" wide)
• Basic sewing supplies Men’s Shirt Fabric
• Dressmaker shears Suggested Fabrics: cotton, cotton types,
• Small, sharp-point scissors shirtings, rayon & blends, chambray,
for trimming seams
broadcloth.
• Seam gauge
• Ruler S: at least 2¼ yd of 45"-wide fabric OR 2 yd
• Seam ripper of 60"-wide fabric
• Point turner M: 23/8 yd (45” wide) OR 2 yd (60" wide)
• Measuring tape
L: 2½ yd (45" wide) OR 21⁄₈ yd (60" wide)
• Pins (high-grade steel if possible, because
pins made of nickel sometimes leave XL: 3 yd (45" wide) OR 21⁄₈ yd (60" wide)
marks in light-colored fabrics)
XXL: 31⁄₈ yd (45" wide) OR 2¼ yd (60" wide)
• Tailor’s chalk
• Pressing cloth (a piece of the fabric Notions
can be used for one) • ½"-wide buttons
• 8 for misses’ sizes
Optional Supplies • 11 for men’s sizes
• Teflon iron shoe • Interfacing (at least ½ yd)
• Sleeve board • Good quality thread (Metrosene,
• Tailor’s ham Gutermann, or Dual Duty Coats & Clark)
• Sleeve roll
• Point presser/clapper
• Buttonhole cutter and block

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 The Classic Tailored Shirt Supplies &
with Pam Howard Instructions

Resources

Supplies Books
www.wawak.com Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine
They have lots of sewing supplies, including Sewing by David Page Coffin (Taunton
tailor’s chalk Press, 1998)
www.fashionsewingsupply.com Info on constructing all kinds of shirts,
for interfacings, buttons, etc. great illustrations by the author, and
pictures of beautiful shirts
www.clover-usa.com
for the Double Tracing wheel Reader’s Digest New Complete Guide
to Sewing (Updated edition, 2010)
Shirting Fabrics
A wonderful resource book for anyone
www.moodfabrics.com
who sews!
www.gorgeousfabrics.com
Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every
www.emmaonesock.com Figure by Sandra Betzina (Taunton Press,
www.fabric.com 2003)

www.bonash.com Includes many solutions for common

Ironslide iron shoe fitting issues
Fitting and Pattern Alteration,
a Multi-Method Approach by Leichty,
Pottberg, and Rasband (Second Edition,
Fairchild Publications, 2009)
Info and solutions to many fitting issues

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 The Classic Tailored Shirt Supplies &
with Pam Howard Instructions

Lay Out, Cut Out 101

The process of laying out fabrics and cutting out patterns is one of the most important
steps in the garment-making process. Here are some terms commonly found on the
back of the pattern envelope or inside the guide sheet, with some helpful definitions.

With nap: The surface of the fabric is
textured or fuzzy-feeling. The pattern
pieces should be laid all in one direction
or another depending on the look or feel
you prefer. Examples: velvet, corduroy, pile
fabrics, fake fur.
Without nap: The surface of the fabric
is smooth and the pattern pieces may
be placed in either lengthwise direction.
Examples: solid color fabrics, allover prints.
One-way design: Designs are woven or
printed on the fabric in such a way that
requires you to lay pattern pieces in one
direction. Examples: floral prints, or any print
or pattern with a definite “up” or “down.”
Shading: When looking at the fabric
lengthwise from top to bottom, then
bottom to top, notice how the light hits the
surface differently. Pattern pieces should
be placed in one direction or another.
Examples: satin, matte velvet.
Plaids or stripes: Depending on the types
of plaids and the width of stripes, patterns
may need to be cut out in a single layer to
insure they match where possible.
Obvious diagonals: Fabrics that are woven
in a diagonal pattern or printed with a
design that runs diagonally across the
fabric surface. It is almost impossible to
match pieces (visually) when sewn together.
Selvage (or selvedge): The strip at the edge
of the fabric formed when the fabric is
woven. It runs the length of the fabric.
Lengthwise grain (warp): The strongest yarns
of the fabric that run parallel to the selvage
Crosswise grain (weft): Yarns are woven at
right angles to the lengthwise yarns. These
yarns have more give (stretch) than the
lengthwise (warp) yarns.
True bias: The 45-degree angle between
the lengthwise and crosswise yarns. This is
where the fabric has the most stretch.
Remember to:
• Make all pattern adjustments before
laying the pattern out on the fabric.
• Make sure that the fabric grain is straight.
If not, try to straighten it. Off-grain fabrics
are unsuitable for making your projects.
• Cut the correct number of pattern
pieces for the design.
• Lay out all of the pattern pieces before
you begin to cut.

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 The Classic Tailored Shirt Supplies &
with Pam Howard Instructions

Shirt Front Diagram

V clip

Snip
Snip
“V” clips indicate Center Front
and Back OR Center Folds
OR Centers of pattern pieces.
Place tailor’s tacks along the

*
Center Front, at the pocket
corners and at all other points

*
in the pattern that you need to
mark.

*
Pocket placement

*
*

Indicates Tailor’s Tack.

*
(left side)

Fold Line
* Fold Line

*
Center Front

*
* *
Snip

Snip
V clip

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 The Classic Tailored Shirt Supplies &
with Pam Howard Instructions

Tower Placket Template & Pattern

Tower Placket Template Tower Placket Pattern

Stopping point
on original
pattern

Buttonhole
X
Stitching Line

Stitching Line

Grainline
Fold Line

Fold Line

Fold Line

Fold Line

*Place underneath pattern. This

side up! Pattern right side up!

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