The path to Korean modernity Britain played a significant role in the formative years of Korea’s modernisation, writes A//red Hwangbo country’s early modernisation, The construction of the Stone Palace - the Seokjojeon - in 1910, represented the last effort to save an ailing Korean monarchy, while the formal establishment of Seoul's Anglican community became. statement of resistance against Japanese suhjagation, Following Korea's independence in 1945, the Stone Palaco remains asa testament to the country's turbulont histors, while the Angliean ebarch ‘ontinnes to promote human righis and democracy. "The current British Limbassyis also still housed in Vieiorian-era buildings designed to aecommodate early diplomiatic legations. Though the British prosence in Asia must still be soen throngh the prisia of colonial ambition, there is also a growing acknowledgement within ‘Korea ofthe mutual illumination that this interaction produced, ‘eyealing much about the country and its national identity in the formative years of modernisation, 40 1585, the British and Korean governments established siplomatie relations and, Ue following vear, Wiigm George Aston ‘ras appointed Consul-Cioneral in Seoul. Ho was the drst foreign iplomat to reside in Seoul but had to contend with dilapidated ‘Korean houses ns his residence nnd office. Subsequently 4 Marshall of the British Ofice of Works in Shanghai designed two blldings for Scout's British Legation, completed in 1891 and 1902, sitish activity in Korea before and during the period ‘of Japanese colonial rule had a profound impact on the {nssiyles more reassuring to its occupants. On a gently sloping site, large Georzian honse on a raised platform was buill for use by Ashton’s successor. with an office, brary, dining room, four bedrooms and roeeption hall. An adjacent Vietovian-stle dwelling hhoosed siaif members. Responding to the loeal elimate of humid ‘sammersand harsh winters, both bulldings had wide verandahs ‘and shared 4 common material language of od and black brick ‘on concrete footines. The Georgian fucade was embellished with a large pediment, four sots of double-arched verundah openings, pilasters and eclectic eolonnettes. Its Victorian counterpart was ‘more functional, except for a series of deprossed arches taat forma ‘the openings of the verandah. The tro honses still form part of {he present British Embassy compound and remain in aotive use, rom these modest beginnings, the British presence in Seon! assumed a more active dimension. Barely exposed to the modem civilisation ofthe West, Korea at fe end ofthe 1ath eentury was experiencing severe political confliets and challenges. In 1808, the Empress Myeongseong, who was considered an obstacle to the expansion of Japan's Meiji Empire, was assassinated in Gyeongbokgung Palace by the Japanose. Her consort, King ‘Gojong, fled to the Russian Legation in Seoul, remaining there for over a year. On his rotumn in 1807, the now emparor, Gofona, ‘designated Kyungwoon Palace as his main residence, chosen ‘because ofits proximity to overseas logations. To impress foreign“Left drawing of the north elevation ofSeoul Anglican Cathedral by Arthur Stansfield Dison, c1922, "The design forthe cathedral wns ambitionsand it was comploted in 1096 by Kim Won. Above: the grandiosity of Joka R Handing’ Sto Palace formsa diseordant backdrop to the remainder ofthe buildings set within the Deoksagung Palace complex. Photograph by Alfred Hwangbo Aclegates and the Korean people, Gojong decided to exeot ‘modern palace within the complex. The recently completed British Legation caught his eve, Gojong commissioned John R Harding to design the new building. Harding's proposal was a stee| stractnre with brick infill ‘and stone veneer in a Neoclassical idiom, The facade was decorated ‘with Tonio pilasters and a two-storey-high portico with Tonle columns, A Korean plum flower was inscribed in the tympanum ax the symbol of the Korean royal court. Large verandahs with balosteades on both upper and lower levels offered undisturbod views of the garden and allowed residents and visitors Lo experience te atmosphere of the palace compound, Walkwars and ground level loggas were designed to better serve the fnctional demands ofthe court. According toa plan and elevation of 1898, the stmetnre was intended to embody reeal grandeur and dignity, vet Handing’s building is intinidatine when set against che existing palaes, Tn rflooting the demand for now formal langnago, inthis ease an Tonle volomnade and Rococo interior, it created an uneasy ‘atmosphere which is esuctly what Gojong anticipated. Harding's building was intended fo seave the main bushuess of the court, with ‘existing buildings demoted to less important fametions, And while the new palace was located off the main axis, it offered more space ‘and modem comforts, Like the British Legation buildings, it had ‘no formal name but was simply referred to as the However, the building is more than its names style and funetion, itis emblematic of Gojone’s scheme & transform the spatin! and structural onsanisation of Kran Palace. A grander soubriqnuet would have bees sesiened bullding had Gajong continued to rule aud oficalls open it. at x 1007, before contraction vas complete, the emperor was foree abdicate in favour of Crown Prince Sanjons-and Krungwoon Palace ‘was renamed Deoksugung Palace, Sts carrent nomenclat Following the annexation of Korea br the Japanese in 191 Gojong secretly sow political asylums abbeuad. His attempts proved fruitless and he was killed by poison in Kyanawoon Palace in 1919, Yet though the Korean monarehy ultimately failed t survive the impact of modernisation, its endearonrs to save the ‘country remain valid Seonl's Angiiean Cathedral was also mired in political ccomplieations. Se Boulevard, the red-brick building isa prom monument compared with tho neighbouring British Embassy, diservctly tucked away from by Arthur Stansileld Dixon, it between 1922 and 1020 ia an austere Romanesque style. Its features include a bell tower, arched walls, erypt and traceries which are simple and modest, with clay tiles employed for the roof. Dixon was a friend of William Morris‘Top: the exterior of Ganghwa Anglican Chane structure, Photograph eonrt Abovo: the interior ofthe same arranged in the style of a bas and founded the Birmingham Guild of Handicraft in 1890 yet, de to lack of fands, his ambitious orizinal design was never -ompleted. However, his plans were rediscovered in 1003 and fhe building finally extended and finished by the Korean architect Kim Won in 1006 ‘Two othor ehurehos in tho early missionary poriod manifest sunique forms and spatial qualities when aeon in the Korean context, Anglican missions began In Korea i. 1805 and the frst Aslican baptism took pluoe at Gunghwa Island in 1806. Financlally supported by the Anglican chureh in London, Ganzi Anglican Church was consecrated in 1900. Employing a traditional Korean-tyle timber brackot structure with raftors and clay roof tiles this extraordinary chureh has a spatial arrangement of a ‘ovo Storey basilica, with double eaves and elerestory windows. modest narthex space opens to the main volume, comprising 2 ms lanked by aisless The altar is placed on a raised platform with a Juancel, while an apeidal space is located behind the altar tof rear narthex, Transopts were not attempted, yet in many espe ‘is church brilliantly reconciles a basilica layout with th raditional form of Korean houses ‘Also on Ganghwa Island is Onsnri Chueh, financed! la {individual Korean Christians, Its priest had a close relation with the island's residents and respeetod loeal culture. Bi 1008, the shurch adopts a Korean damestie style of timber, bracket of the 12 apostles. A less-adoned nava is and women wore not seated amodate them. the Japanese annexation of Korea, the use of the mined and Shinto ceremonies impased. ranches of the Christian faith, the Anglican ‘lola to the solonial authorities. However, san Church rofused to host Shinto ceremonies, table tothe tenets of Christianity. The ‘aschool in 1014, Both chuzeh and shoot ‘Sere seen asa potential threat to the colonial order, so church ‘Sstsssters were banished and the school foreed to shut down. 5a pression of language and religion centinied until Korean independence at the ond of the Second World War, During ‘bowever, Korean nationalist spirit was strongthenod in ext for independence and religious freedom, j=-ralusating the ast can often be a contested process, vot s~.can be no clear future without acknowledging and ioterrogating the course of history, It is only reoently that Koreans have booome more receptive to the idea that, for better ot for ‘sors, the British presence in Korea made a meaningful contribution towards their country's early modernisationContents February 2018 Bcay: architeeture as perpetual erisis ~ ‘the constantly evolving architecture of South Korea Hypingmin Pai 8 Reputations: Kim Swoo Geun Melany Sua-Min Park we ‘Sewoon Sanggn regonoration, Seoul, ‘ty Chang Yong scon and Kim Taek-bin/F_SCapo Architecture Manon Moard 2 Amorepacific headquarters, Seoul, by Dayid Chippertield Architects Colin Marokall at ‘Essay: imperfection and emptiness ~ mai and diem Byoungeoo Cho 4 ‘Peaco and Culture Bunker, Seoul, by CoRe Architects Eleanor Beaumont 2 Hssay: the path to Korean modernity and Britain’ role init Alfred Thoangho © AREA: STPMS Catherine Stessor 6h ‘Essay: Pajn Book City ~ past and present Dirk Somers 66 ‘Outrage: profiting from unhappy political realities, Oliver Wainsoright 74 ‘Hansen Memorial Museum, Yeosu, by Kim Jong Kyu Chot Won-foon % ‘Daejeon Thiversity residential colleges by Muss Studies and Inoje Jolin Hong at ‘Typology: bathhouse Tom Wilieingon 98 Books of the Month: (Cniprecedented Pyongyang by Domgwoo Vimn and Made in North Korea hy Nisholus Bonner Oven Hatherley 108 Taras x48) Yo cox Borat Direct Pant Finch Deputy itor Meron Melard aioriad Asiatast leaner Bosemont Brleoriat saattrtor pert Bikers ‘Tom Carpenter Production ore duis Dawn, Coe Thom Hii Bion ‘Tom Wikinern Contrtting Raters Catherine aso, Joromy Melvin Oriticat bare Eis Woodman, Ealtor in Ccuistine Mey ona) Managing Diver ommereat Dietor amos Prat et 2128 Internationa Aceon’ Director ‘Caratine London ot 2742 Intestine Acco Menger ‘Sho Sranion ex 4535 Senior Koy AcontMonager “anna Buckly ext 2247 Business Deetopment Menagers eaeeh Darke er 2868 anion St Goorge ext. 2789 Marketing Manager Jad Glover ot 2 Head of Production ‘Baal Moras Motion Adcerisng Ser Casta Florent 39492292910 nrtoahorseckinternotonaton Contnting he AR, ematl ore formate “Postar lacnasomaecm or ell HH (0,200 pa to eensThe Architectural Review