meats

in this section we discuss different kinds of meat, offer a charted

description of the various cuts, illustrating the reason each is preferred
for a specific cooking method, and provide a complete list of cooking
times and temperatures. also included are tips on buying meat and
storing it.

a general guideline for buying and storing meat :

1. meat should be odorless, firm and just damp to the touch, never
mushy, slick, wet, sticky or in the case of ham, gritty.
2. the surrounding fat should be white, neither it nor the meat should
show any tinge of grey or brown, or iridescence in ham.
3. the meat should be true to its own color :
beef – a bright red pork – a pale pink
tinged white
veal – a pale pinkish pearly white lamb – a bright pink to
rose
4. choose the leanest cut i.e. the one with the largest uninterrupted
surface area of meat.
5. always keep meat refrigerated. if not to be used the day purchased,
re-wrap it in plastic wrap separating larger pieces such as chops or
cutlets. if not to be used within three days, freeze it, but remember to
label contents, weight and date.
a. it is easier to trim excess fat, and, if desired, cut meat into
portion sizes before freezing.
b. ground pork, lamb and veal spoil faster than other meats and
should be frozen if not to be used for longer than two days.
6. get to know your butcher. this is possible even in a supermarket.
ring the bell and ask questions. you’re sure to find one of the staff with
whom you can communicate, who will advise you on what looks best,
cut to size, and even take phone orders to be ready for pick-up if
you’re short on time.
7. be sure to wash hands before and after handling meat and keep
utensils clean. follow the guidelines for safe cooking temperatures, and
a meat thermometer is a useful tool.

the tenderness of a piece of meat depends upon its cut, which, in

turn depends on its location on the animal from which it’s derived.
meat is muscle, and the more muscle is used, the harder it becomes.
the tougher the cut, the more cooking it requires to become tender.
we provide diagrams showing the positions of the various cuts, and the
way that determines their use is shown in the accompanying charts
grouping the cuts and giving their recommended cooking methods. this
enables our clients to understand why recipes call for specific cuts, or
even why they may have encountered some that simply say”stew
meat” for example, and, should they ever want to try one, what to buy.
more importantly, it also enables them to make preferential choices
within categories, or substitutions when buying, should the
recommended cut be unavailable, or unacceptlable either in apperance
or price.

on a personal note, and this is simply my own experience, unless i

am stuffing meat in some way, i prefer not to thaw it, if frozen, before
cooking. grilling, broiling and sautéeing directions always start with
the instructions to sear on both sides first. this means exposing the
meat to the flame to seal in the natural juices which are responsible for
keeping it tender.
if the meat has been frozen those juices, intermingled with their
natural water content, have formed ice crystals which flow freely when
thawed and tend to dry out the piece. so instead of thawing out the
meat, i adjust the cooking time. whether stewing, roasting or broiling
the added time averages out to be about equal to one more pound.

all meat carries a u.s.d.a. grade, of which there are many, but the
ones generally known to the public are prime, choice & select. most of
the prime, especially with beef is sold to fine restaurants, the rest to
very exclusive butchers. hotels, restaurants, perhaps the
neighborhood butcher and the specialty sections found in some
supermarkets probably offer choice, but, as a rule the supermarket
meat counter contains select. though not as tender, it has a lower fat
content, actually making it healthier for you. for example, one often
hears of “marbling” in beef—fine veins of fat running through the meat
that melt in cooking to add juiciness and tenderness. marbling is
commonly found in prime, occasionally in choice, but rarely in select,
yet its absence results in a lower cholesterol count and leaner ground,
with less shrinkage. because it has less fat, select is the grade of
choice for stewing and casseroles. don’t misunderstand, you can still
get a nice piece of meat in the market, but it won’t be the quality that
commands top price in a five star restaurant. another fact to
remember when considering tenderness, is that the longer meat,
especially beef, is cooked when broiled, grilled or roasted, the tougher
it becomes (see hand chart.)

lamb and veal have lost popularity in the past few decades, partly
because of animal sensibilities and partly because of the escalating
prices. both are still prized for their distinct, delicate flavors. much of
our lamb today is exported, and because of the preservative packaging
involved its color may be a deep red. be sure the package is marked
with its country of origin and dated. lamb’s clearly distinguishable
taste is irreplaceable in dishes that feature it, but occasionally a
combination of ground beef and ground turkey will substitute when
mixed with other ingredients. veal, however, though delicious on its
own, can often be replaced by poultry or even pork. one word of
caution in buying veal, it shrinks in cooking. so buy the larger piece or
add about ¼ lb more to your order. pork, “the other white meat,” in
contrast, has gained popularity. once mainly used for roasting, stewing,
grilling or smoking, it now appears in cuts like medallions, cutlets,
boneless loins for stuffing and is often used in traditional veal dishes as
well as starring in elaborate variations of its own favorite time honored
recipes such as exotically stuffed chops.

no discussion of meat would be complete without a mention of

carving. meat should always be carved across the grain. to facilitate
this beef rib roasts, because of their size, are “stood” on end, hence
the name “standing roast,” and sliced horizontally. loin roasts of lamb
or pork contain “chops”, can be presented vertically on the carving
board and should be sliced between the bones allowing a chop per
serving. the butcher can crack the connecting bone to make this easy,
in fact he can even curve the roast in a circle, creating a “crown roast”
in which the center is filled with a stuffing. several chops at a time,
served flat on a plate is called a “rack.” this usually refers only to lamb.
racks and crown roasts are usually “frenched”, i.e. the exposed bone
ends are scraped down to the meat so they brown and become visually
appealing. in any case, if the roast can’t be separated into chops use a
sharp pointed knife to cut along the bone line and separate the meat.
rolled roasts are placed seam side down on the platter and sliced at
right angles to it. bone-in leg roasts are cooked and presented meatiest
side up, with the smaller bone end to the left. they are carved in right
angles to the plate starting from the larger meatier end. knives are a
matter of personal preference. most chefs recommend a top quality
pointed 9 or 10 inch knife with a fairly narrow blade, well honed, kept
sharp, and hand washed. the knife, of course, is used with a long
carving fork.

seafood

the seafood industry has evolved and expanded as much, if not

more than the poultry one has. faster transportation, improved
refrigeration and freezing methods and the advent of aquaculture,
( fish farming), have made fresh fish available, and plentiful, in markets
all over america, not just along the coasts. what’s more, there’s an
abundance of varieties to choose from, many unfamiliar just a few
years ago, and new ones arriving, it seems, daily.
of course every product must have a market, and the seafood one has
grown with the public’s increasing awareness that fish is good, and
good for you, that there’s a type for every palate, a dish for every
occasion, and best, perhaps of all, that any way it’s prepared, it cooks
in very little time. nature’s own fast food ! in this section we look at
the most popular types of seafood: fish, shellfish and bi-valves.

first a few general rules about fish :

1. seafood should be odorless. salt water varieties of fish can have a
faint aroma of the sea, as with meat and poultry, the flesh of fish
should be cool, smooth and firm, never sticky or slick.
2. the color of a fish depends on its species, but it should appear fresh,
and any scales should be shiny, distinct and tight to the skin, but pop
up independently if the piece is bent.
if buying a whole fish, the eyes should be clear, bright and not sunken,
the gills should be pink and the inside clean.
a. the rule of thumb in calculating the amount of whole fish, or
lobster to buy is ½ lb. of edible meat or, 1lb. whole item per potion.
3. the person who prepares and sells seafood is called a fish monger.
just as it’s wise to find a butcher to trust, it’s advisable to do the same
with a monger, someone who will answer questions honestly, guide
your choices, and even take a phone order.
4. fresh fish should be eaten within a few hours of purchase, or rinsed,
patted dry in towels and wrapped in airtight plastic. freeze it if not
planning to use it within 24 hrs. it’s wise to divide it into the portions
you want, before freezing, and wrap the pieces separately. fish thaws
quickly and can’t be re-frozen safely, or re-wrapped easily, so only take
out only what is needed for each meal. also, if buying ahead, make
sure what you’re getting hasn’t been frozen for transport to the market
—ask questions !
5. i prefer to leave the cleaning, and filleting of fish to the monger, as i
do the steaming of lobsters and crabs, and the opening, “shucking,” of
clams and oysters, but, sometimes, a dish dictates a skinned fillet, and
children always prefer fish that way. when this is called for, get a very
sharp knife, about 9 in. long with a thin blade. lay the fish flesh-side
down on a board, on a diagonal to you, and, using the knife, holding
the skin firmly in your other hand, carefully cut and peel it away,
beginning from the far corner.
6. occasionally a recipe asks for a fish that isn’t available that day.
substitutions can be made within the fish type. for example:
a. full flavored with firm meaty texture and high in omega-3 fatty
acids :
tuna, marlin, swordfish, shark
b. mild tasting, lean, fine flake and sweet flavor:
sole, flounder, tilapia, halibut, orange roughy
c. mild tasting, lean, large flake, and sweet flavor:
cod, haddock, bass, rockfish, ocean perch,
d. firm, moderate flavor and medium oil content:
snapper, catfish, monkfish (can also be substituted for lobster
in some recipes)
e. rich oily fish, firm flake and medium to strong flavor depending
on species:
salmon, wild or farmed, trout, artic char, steelhead

shellfish:
lobster:
there are two types of lobsters: the cold water, north atlantic, or
maine as we know it, with large claws, and the warm water dwelling
spiny or rock lobster with very small claws. the latter we see sold as
south african tails, and, indeed the tail is most of its body. a lobster
must be cooked live, or it is not safe to eat. if the lobster has been
handled correctly the tail curls, but if it was dead when cooked the tail
will be flat. don’t eat it! i understand the african tails are flash frozen,
which has the same effect as boiling, then butchered, and they too will
curl if safe. lobster meat is not often sold separately, but occasionally,
it will appear, vacuum packed, on ice in fish counters. details of dealing
with, and serving, lobster will be included in their specific recipes.
lobster is best eaten the day of purchase, or with the frozen tails, as
soon as thawed.

crabs:
there are so many varieties of crabs that it would take too much
space to be specific here. suffice to say, that like lobsters, whole ones
are best kept live until ready to be cooked, and are cleaned
immediately before. in their short season, freshly cleaned, raw
softshells are seen on the fish counter on ice. crab can also be
steamed, frozen in shell, and shipped to market. but like lobster, crab
in shell, should be eaten within hours of purchase. unlike lobster,
however, fresh crab meat is sold out of the shell, by the pound,
vacuum packed in plastic containers or, for longer periods of
preservation, in dated tins, which must be kept refrigerated, ( smaller
amounts are sold in shelf-safe little tins, but it isn’t very good.) the
majority of the best grade crab meat. lump, shares the fate of prime
beef, and goes to fine restaurants. regular markets usually carry
backfin and claw meat, which are fine for most recipes. the nicest
thing about using crab meat is that a little goes a long way. a pound
can easily serve four, or even more in some dishes. just remember to
look carefully for shells in the meat, and not to keep an opened tin for
longer than a day.

shrimp :
unlike other shellfish, shrimp is always prepared, frozen and
packaged for market, both raw and cooked. what is labeled “raw” on
the iced counter in the store is thawed, and probably, the” cooked”
was the raw the previous day. so be cautious, ask for expiration dates.
the cooked and cleaned are great to use right away, or in bulk for a
crowd, but the raw, cooked fresh, taste better in most recipes. shrimp
cooks quickly and the cleaning time is the same whether raw or boiled.
cleaning shrimp is simply peeling off the shell, and running the point of
a paring knife down the back, easiest done under running water, to
remove the vein. cleaned shrimp have a groove down their back.
uncleaned ones can pose a health hazard, so please notice any you are
served. never re-freeze shrimp, even the ones purchased cooked,
unless they have been cooked again in a recipe. for general use and
everyday convenience, nothing can beat the deveined frozen “e-z
peel,” shrimp, sold in two pound bags.

shrimp is sold by the pound and by the count. they range from the
colossal 6 to 12 per pound grillers and stuffers to the tiny 100 per
pound salad ones, and the purchasing choice of size usually depends
upon the intended use, anything from a kabob to a sauce. the quantity
will depend upon estimated portions for the individual recipe. for
example, a dinner caesar salad will require more of the same size large
shrimp, than a creole, where they are combined with other vegetables.
in addition, there’s a personal factor. shrimp tend to shrink, so within
the medium to large range it’s really the cook’s preference as to how
they should appear in the presentation. our recipes will only give
suggestions.

shrimp is available in hundreds of varieties, but they can generally be

divided between warm water shrimp and cold water shrimp. as a
general rule, cold water shrimp are smaller, but more succulent. all
varieties range in colors from deep red, pink, white, to gray, and green.
all change color when cooked.

shrimp ( colossal ) 10 or less per pound

shrimp ( jumbo ) 11-15 per pound
extra large 16-20 per pound
large 21-30 per pound
medium 31-35 per pound
small 36-45 per pound
miniature 100 per pound

mollisks :

clams : again there are many types of clams, but generally they can
be divided into two groups; soft-shells and hard-shells. soft shell clams
have a tube-like siphon protruding from their shell. if the clam is alive,
this tube moves when touched, if it doesn’t, discard the clam. because
their shells are always ajar, they must be soaked for several hours in
cold, lightly salted water to remove the sand that gets lodged inside.
these clams are wonderful served steamed, in shell, with butter for
dipping, but, if chopping them for a sauce, remove the siphon first.

hard shell clams are sold by size the smallest, littlenecks are sweet
and tender. cherrystones are a medium size clam, meaty with excellent
flavor and the favorite to be served raw on the half shell. the large
clams, quahogs, chopped, are used in soups, stews, chowders and
fried. all clams should be odorless, save for a faint aroma of the sea,
and alive when prepared. hard shells should be tightly closed when raw
and open after cooking. discard any that are not. clams should always
be kept cold and are best eaten the day of purchase. if serving them
raw, ask the monger to open them and package them on ice. it saves
the difficult job of opening them and assures they were safe to eat
when sold, but be sure to keep them on ice and eat them within a
couple of hours of purchase. clam meat is sold canned, but not usually
raw, except by a customer’s request.

oysters : like clams oysters should smell faintly of the sea, and their
shell should be tightly closed. discard open ones. unlike clams, they
must always be kept on ice, and never be turned on their sides, or their
“liqueur” will seep out and they will dry. they too, come in many
varieties, atlantic, european, pacific and olympia, a miniature breed, to
name a few. they have a delicate taste, which can be slightly changed
by the location of the “bed” in which they were cultivated. the choice
of purchase depends on availability, and intended use. if they are to be
served on the half shell, have the monger “shuck” them for you,
oysters can be very hard to open, and again eat them within an hour or
so. oyster meat is often sold vacuum packed at the fish counter. it can
be stored according to stamped date on the package, but should be
entirely consumed once opened, and the liqueur should be clear. never
rinse oysters, they lose their taste.

muscles : like other bi-valves, muscles can be found in many varieties

around the world, but the main difference between them is size rather
than type. unlike other bi-valves they are never eaten raw, and they
need to be cleaned before being cooked, because they do not live on
the seabed but cling to objects in the ocean like rocks and buoys by
attaching themselves to sea-weed, bits of which sticks in their shells
when they are harvested. this is called a “beard” and is removed by
scrubbing with a brush. if the mussel is alive, the shell will close under
cold running water, and the same rules apply as with the other bi-
valves, they should be odorless, kept cold, the shells closed when raw,
open after cooking, and discard any that aren’t. they can be stored flat
on a tray, covered with a damp cloth, in the refrigerator for 2 days and
though not sold fresh, the meat is often sold frozen.
scallops : most consumers only see two types of scallops in the market,
bay and sea. actually true bay scallops are very rare, and what is
called “bay” is a “calico” scallop, also very small and tender, which
because of their size, are partially steamed before coming to market.
otherwise, it would be too difficult to remove their shells. this extends
their refrigeration life to three days, and allows them to cook quickly,
but beware, over cooked they will toughen.

sea scallops are quite large, 1” or more in diameter, and harvested

by boats that stay out at sea for weeks at a time. to conserve space,
and preserve the meat, the scallops are shelled and stored in salted
water. the longer they are stored, the whiter they become, so try to
pick ones with a pale pink tinge and the meat should be firm with a
mild ocean scent. because of the way scallops are processed prior to
marketing, and the fact that the abductor muscle, through which no
toxins pass, is the only part sold, they are very safe to eat raw, and
their refrigeration life, as stated, is about 3 days. they are only sold
over the counter.

poultry

in the past thirty years the poultry business has re-invented itself
and become an industry, going from barnyard to boardroom, and the
product, especially chicken, has been transformed from an old stand-
by, in the kitchen, to a star on the menu. new production methods
have increased the availability of tender birds while keeping the prices
for them reasonable. new ways of butchering have led to an increasing
variety of uses, which in turn has resulted in a heightened appreciation
for the versatility of poultry in general. this section takes a look at
america’s favorite source of protein, gives tips on buying, storing and
safe handling.

poultry, like other meats, should be odorless, just damp, never slick
or sticky, and firm to the touch. the meat should be smooth, and the
skin supple. don’t be alarmed, if in some brands of chicken, the skin
appears more yellow. some breeders consider the color desirable and
add edible flowers to the birds’ diet, specifically marigolds. chickens
and turkeys have white meat, which should be just that, white, and
dark meat, which should have a rosy hue. in choosing a duck, pick the
one with the lightest meat. game hens are all white meat, and squabs
are all dark. game birds vary, but i’m not going to deal with them here
because they are not usually available in the market, and these recipes
will be market friendly. bear in mind, however, should one fall on your
doorstep, that the same preparation, storage and, above all, safe
handling rules apply to them as well.

when buying a whole bird, pick the heavier of two that appear to
be of equal size. it will be the meatier, since the bones weigh the
same. whether buying a whole bird or parts, however, safe-handling of
poultry is extremely important. most of our poultry, carries the bacteria
salmonella. salmonella causes an infection characterized by severe
cramping, fever and diarrhea, and can be very dangerous to small
children. salmonella is eliminated by cooking. once the proper
temperature is reached, the meat is safe. prior to cooking, though,
salmonella is easily spread by cross-contamination. this means that
anything that has touched the raw meat has become a probable carrier
of the bacteria, and can transfer it to other food, or utensils. so make
sure to wash – with soap- the counter-top, knife, sponge, hands and
cutting board after the meat is either wrapped for storage or in the
oven. in fact, i keep a separate board for poultry. freezing does not kill
salmonella, so the same precautions should be taken with thawed
meat.

whole birds should be left in their packaging for storage until use,
within three days, or can even be frozen that way if they have not been
frozen before. again, get to know your butcher, and don’t be afraid to
ask questions. it’s best to put another plastic bag over the wrapped
bird when storing it, as a precaution against its leaking and cross-
contaminating other food. when preparing for cooking, the bird should
be rinsed well, and any bits of bone or matter removed from the inside.
i like to remove excess fat and the tail pin bone, a small tab at the
bottom of the back, because it contains the oil gland and contributes to
the amount of fat rendered. in addition, i “soak” the bird, as my family
has called it for several generations, in well salted water, for a period
of about 5 mins. per pound. i have heard this referred to as
“koshering” and, lately it’s become chic as “brining.” by any name it,
adds to the flavor by serving to draw out any last traces of blood .
unlike other meats, where retention of blood helps to tenderize, in
poultry it not only toughens, but imparts an unpleasant taste.

poultry parts should be re-wrapped if not to be used within 8 hrs.

and frozen if to be kept longer than three days. they should be washed,
cleaned, fat removed, and dried in paper towels before wrapping
separately, to avoid sticking together, but not brined before cooking, or
the salt will toughen the meat. cooking directions for specific parts will
be included in the individual recipes.

chickens have been the most affected by modern hatchery

methods. the “stewing chicken,” a old bird, tender only after long
boiling, is no more and neither really is the capon, a young rooster,
castrated to keep it tender, formerly the only one to make it onto the
“fine dining” list. it still may be found there, but now, it usually refers
to the way it’s prepared, not the bird’s anatomy. tenderness is no
longer a question, it’s expected. today our only problem is whether to
choose a broiler-fryer ranging from 2.5 to 6.lbs. or a roaster averaging
6 to 10 lbs. the concern is to be sure it’s handled safely, and cooked to
the proper temperature, for this we direct you to the charts.

turkey too has been up-dated. parts are sold separately, the “hotel
breast” has long been popular, and, lately, the turkey loin, a boneless
breast that can be stuffed, rolled and roasted is gaining popularity.
here too, the individual recipes will include directions for cooking the
specific cuts required and for roasting whole birds, we ask you to
consult the charts link.
to carve poultry, as with roasts, you need a sharp, pointed knife with 9
or 10 inch blade and a long handled fork. position the bird on its back
with its side facing you. with the fork, pierce the connecting joints
between first the leg and the thigh and then the wing and the breast.
then use the fork to guide the knife in separating those pieces from the
rest of the roast. this removes obstructions and allows clear area to
begin slicing the breast, with the grain, in smooth downward strokes.
a more economical way to carve a bird is, after the leg and wing are
removed, hold the turkey near the breastbone with the carving fork.
slice down one side of the breastbone until your knife meets resistance
near the base of the turkey. cut horizontally into the turkey near the
base and remove the entire lobe of breast meat and slice across the
grain. repeat on the other side of the breastbone.

sauces and gravies

the definition of a sauce is : a liquid that accompanies food,

complimenting the flavor and/or texture of the dish with which it is
served. melted butter is a sauce, so are gravy, mayonnaise, pancake
syrup and dessert toppings. in this section a few simple, yet versatile,
types of sauces are explained and basic directions given for making
them. a general knowledge of them is a useful asset in the kitchen.

as stated many sauces are familiar to us, and commonly used, yet
often the word in the title of a recipe is intimidating. the truth is most
basic sauces are easy to make and familiarity with them is a valuable
tool. they can dress up a dish, moisten a dried one, transform left-
overs and even act as the basis for a recipe.
 the simplest sauces are related to glazes made by melting a food in
its solid state, for example a jelly or preserve, over low heat, while
adding a liquid, usually flavored, to transform it into a pourable
consistency, and alter its taste to compliment the flavor of the dish it
accompanies. if that dish happens to be meat, the sauce is often
added at some point during the preparation, and will be included in the
title on the menu listing.

equally simple but slightly more time consuming are reductions as

the name implies, here a liquid such as broth, or stock, wine or juice, is
simmered, cooked just under a low boil, until most of the water
content is evaporated, the consistency thickens and the flavor
intensifies. reductions can be started over a base of cooked vegetables
or by deglazing a pan and, for this reason, they are often strained to
remove any bits of food and insure the smoothness. a sliver of butter
at the end of preparation gives them a silky finish.

coulis is made by cooking the meat of vegetables or fruits, then

pureeing and straining it, sometimes adding spices or herbs. it would
seem more of a condiment, as it’s often encountered, these days,
dribbled over a dish or around the plate, but it is a sauce, familiar and
dear to generations of pasta lovers.

sauces which use a thickening agent are probably the widest varied
group, encompassing hollandaise to gravy. there are three major
thickening agents, egg yokes, flour and cornstarch. tapioca and
arrowroot are sometimes mentioned in recipes, but for the purpose of
keeping the pantry simple, we won’t use them. if you find a recipe that
does, you can substitute either of the other powders.

egg thickened sauces generally follow the same procedure, the

liquid base, dry additives and flavorings are heated until they meld, a
small amount of the hot liquid is poured slowly into the beaten egg
yokes to warm them to prevent cooking too quickly and “curdling” i.e.
starting to scramble, then the whole is cooked over medium heat, in a
double boiler, stirring constantly, again to prevent curdling, until a
near boil is reached and the sauce achieves the desired consistency,
usually about 3 mins. because of the health hazards it’s wise to avoid
the “quick no cook” recipes for egg thickened sauces, but there are
many excellent easily made powdered mixes on the market, for those
short on time.

flour and cornstarch are, for the most part interchangeable in

making sauces. the major difference is that if using cornstarch, only
half the amount is needed than if using flour. otherwise, the
proportionate measurements, process and results are almost identical.
cornstarch cooks clearer, and seems better for sauces that should be
light, a raison sauce or au jus for example, or one whisked up in a
deglazed sauté pan, but it tends to become glutinous under
refrigeration and doesn’t seem to reheat well. i prefer flour for stews
and gravies where leftovers are to be anticipated.

there are two methods to thicken a sauce with flour or cornstarch, by

making a“slurry” or by making a “roux”, using standard formulas
outlined below. both require careful measuring but are really quite
simple.

a slurry is made by dissolving a measured amount of the thickener

in a measured amount if cold liquid, which is then poured into a
specific amount of liquid to be thickened. the whole is heated to a low
boil, stirring constantly to avoid lumping, and maintained there until
desired consistency is reached, about 3 mins. slurries are useful in
making gravies for roasts, thickening stews and soups, and, as
mentioned, clear sauces. they are also fat-free. full directions are given
below.

a roux uses flour and is made by heating a measured amount of

butter, margarine works too, until it foams, then removing it from the
heat, stirring in a measured amount of thickener to make a smooth
paste, and quickly adding a specific amount of cold liquid, whisking to
avoid lumps, and again heating to a low boil stirring constantly until
desired consistency is reached, again about 3 mins. made with milk or
cream this is known as the basic white sauce or bechamal. it is one of
the five “mother” or fundamental sauces in cooking and is the basis of
many recipes, either in its original form or one of its many variations.
it can also be made with skim milk, for the diet conscious, partially with
wine or stock for flavor, or sweetened for desserts. its formula is also
given below.

there are, of course many other sauces, and, in fact, a sauce can be
made on the spur of the moment by simply stirring desirable additions
into the pan juices, wine, juice, sour cream, tomato paste, mustard the
possibilities are endless and some will be suggested in the recipes
provided by this service. however, the sauces listed here are the ones
easiest to make, and will be those most frequently used.

slurry: a few simple rules to follow in making them:

1. the dissolving fluid should be room temperature and at
least twice the amount of the thickener----i.e. 1 tbs. powder requires 2
tbs. liquid.
2. be sure the powdered thickener is completely dissolved.
 3. remember to include the amount of dissolving liquid in the
total amount to be thickened when calculating the quantity of
thickening powder needed.
4. for stews, gravies, soups etc. the base liquid should be
skimmed of as much rendered fat as possible, or the sauce can
become heavy, glue-like and separate. cooling the liquid, if time
allows, is excellent. it helps the fat to congeal, making it easier to
remove, and aids the incorporation of the slurry decreasing the risk of
lumping.
5. return to heat, bring to a simmer and stir until thick as
wanted about 3 mins.

proportions:
thin: 1 tbs. flour or ½ tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid ---soup
* medium: 2 tbs. flour or 1 tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid---
gravies,
casserole sauces, gratins, stews
thick: 3tbs flour or 1 ½ tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid---souffles.
accompanying dessert sauces

roux: equally simple are the rules for basic white sauce :
1. be sure the butter is foaming- then remove from heat at
once
2. the blend of butter and thickener must be a smooth paste
3. the liquid should be room temperature or below. add it all at
once to the roux and whisk or stir vigorously to be sure it’s all
incorporated before returning to the heat to prevent lumping.
4. stir constantly until it reaches a simmer and it achieves the
desired thickness about 3 mins.

proportions :
thin: 1tbs flour or ½ tbs. cornstarch + 1 tbs. butter per 1 cup
liquid—soups
* medium: 2tbs flour or 1 tbs. cornstarch + 2tbs. butter per 1
cup liquid—
stews, gravies casseroles, gratins
thick: 4 tbs. flour or 2 tbs. cornstarch + 4 tbs. butter per 1 ½ cup
liquid--
souffles, accompanying dessert sauces

* denotes most generally used consistency, and with the most cook
friendly variations
note: 1 tbs. = 3 tsp.
 the charts

including the charts in volume i made the book too bulky, so we

are offering them as a free bonus to download and i really hope you do
so. not only do we frequently suggest consulting them, but i think you
will find that the information they embody is, generally, very useful.
they contain descriptions of: the various cuts of meat, their different
uses, cooking times and temperatures; a variety of cheeses and their
best pairings; herbs and spices and their recommended applications;
preserving fruits and vegetables, naturally measurements and
equivalents, and an extensive list of substitutes for many ingredients
that perhaps you forgot to purchase, or that don’t fit into a specific
diet, to mention just some of the subjects covered in the charts
section. as a whole, they afford a quick way to research the answers to
cooking questions, and, hopefully, provide solutions to unexpected
culinary problems. ever since compiling them, i find i often refer to
them and have come to regard my charts collection as one of my most
valuable kitchen tools. hopefully you will come to agree.