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 NORMANDY PUDDING. (GOOD.)

Boil, until very soft and dry, eight ounces of rice in a pint and a
half, or rather more, of water,[152] stir to it two ounces of fresh butter
and three of sugar, and simmer it for a few minutes after they are
added; then pour it out, and let it cool for use. Strip from the stalks as
many red currants, or Kentish cherries, as will fill a tart-dish of
moderate size, and for each pint of the fruit allow from three to four
ounces of sugar. Line the bottom and sides of a deep dish with part
of the rice; next, put in a thick layer of fruit and sugar; then one of
rice and one of fruit alternately until the dish is full. Sufficient of the
rice should be reserved to form a rather thick layer at the top:
smooth this equally with a knife, sift sugar thickly on it, or brush it
with good cream, and send the pudding to a moderate oven for half
an hour, or longer, should it be large. Morella cherries, with a little
additional sugar, make an excellent pudding of this kind.
152. A quart of milk can be substituted for this; but with the fruit, water perhaps
answers better.
 COMMON BAKED RAISIN PUDDING.

Beat well together three-quarters of a pound of flour, the same

quantity of raisins, six ounces of beef-suet, finely chopped, a small
pinch of salt, some grated nutmeg, and three eggs which have been
thoroughly whisked, and mixed with about a quarter of a pint of milk,
or less than this, should the eggs be large. Pour the whole into a
buttered dish, and bake it an hour and a quarter. For a large
pudding, increase the quantities one half. Flour and stoned raisins,
each 3/4 lb.; suet, 6 oz.; salt, small pinch; nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoonful;
eggs, 3; milk, 1/4 pint: 1-1/4 hour.
 A RICHER BAKED RAISIN PUDDING.

Mix and whisk well, and lightly together, a pound of raisins

weighed after they are stoned, ten ounces of finely minced beef-
suet, three-quarters of a pound of flour, a little salt, half a small
nutmeg, or the grated rind of a lemon, four large eggs, and as much
milk as may be needed to make the whole into a very thick batter:
bake the pudding a few minutes longer than the preceding one. The
addition of sugar will be found no improvement as it will render it
much less light.
Sultana raisins are well adapted to these puddings, as they
contain no pips, and from their delicate size sooner become tender
in the baking than the larger kinds.
 THE POOR AUTHOR’S PUDDING.

Flavour a quart of new milk by boiling in it for a few minutes half a

stick of well-bruised cinnamon, or the thin rind of a small lemon; add
a few grains of salt, and three ounces of sugar, and turn the whole
into a deep basin: when it is quite cold, stir to it three well-beaten
eggs, and strain the mixture into a pie-dish. Cover the top entirely
with slices of bread free from crust, and half an inch thick, cut so as
to join neatly, and buttered on both sides: bake the pudding in a
moderate oven for about half an hour, or in a Dutch oven before the
fire.
New milk, 1 quart; cinnamon, or lemon-rind; sugar, 3 oz.; little salt;
eggs, 3; buttered bread: baked 1/2 hour.
 PUDDING À LA PAYSANNE.

(Cheap and Good.)

Fill a deep tart-dish with alternate layers of well-sugared fruit, and
very thin slices of the crumb of a light stale loaf; let the upper layer
be of fruit, and should it be of a dry kind, sprinkle over it about a
dessertspoonful of water, or a little lemon-juice: raspberries,
currants, and cherries, will not require this. Send the pudding to a
somewhat brisk oven to be baked for about half an hour. The
proportion of sugar used must be regulated, of course, by the acidity
of the fruit. For a quart of ripe greengages, split and stoned, five
ounces will be sufficient.
 THE CURATE’S PUDDING.

This is but a variation of the pudding à la Paysanne which

precedes it, but as it is both good and inexpensive it may be
acceptable to some of our readers. Wash, wipe, and pare some
quickly grown rhubarb-stalks, cut them into short lengths, and put a
layer of them into a deep dish with a spoonful or two of Lisbon sugar;
cover these evenly with part of a penny roll sliced thin; add another
thick layer of fruit and sugar, then one of bread, then another of the
rhubarb, cover this last with a deep layer of fine bread-crumbs well
mingled with about a tablespoonful of sugar, pour a little clarified
butter over them, and send the pudding to a brisk oven. From thirty
to forty minutes will bake it. Good boiling apples sliced, sweetened,
and flavoured with nutmeg or grated lemon-rind, and covered with
well buttered slices of bread, make an excellent pudding of this kind,
and so do black currants likewise, without the butter.
 A LIGHT BAKED BATTER PUDDING.

With three heaped tablespoonsful or about six ounces of flour mix

a small saltspoonful of salt, and add very gradually to it three fresh
eggs which have been cleared in the usual way or strained, and
whisked to a light froth. Beat up the batter well, then stir to it by
degrees a pint of new milk, pour it into a buttered dish, set it
immediately into a rather brisk oven, and bake it three-quarters of an
hour. If properly managed, it will be extremely light and delicate, and
the surface will be crisp. When good milk cannot be had for it,
another egg, or the yolk of one at least, should be added. Send
preserved or stewed fruit to table with it. The same mixture may be
baked in buttered cups from twenty to thirty minutes, turned out, and
served with sugar sifted thickly over.
In some counties an ounce or two of very finely minced suet is
usually mixed with baked batter puddings, which are enriched, but
not improved, we think, by the addition; but that is entirely a matter of
taste.
CHAPTER XXII.

Eggs and Milk.

 TO PRESERVE EGGS FRESH FOR MANY WEEKS.

As soon as possible after the eggs are taken from the nests, brush
each one separately with a thin solution of gum Arabic, being careful
to leave no portion of the shell uncovered by it. The half of each egg
must first be done and left to become dry, before the remainder is
touched, that the gum may not be rubbed off any part by its coming
in contact, while wet, with the hand as it is held to be varnished, or
with the table when it is laid down to harden.
Obs.—Eggs will remain fit for use a very long time if carefully kept;
but attention should always be given to the cleanliness of the shells
before they are stored, as when these are soiled, and then excluded
from the air, they will sometimes become very offensive. Those
which are collected immediately after the harvest are the best both
for eating and for putting up in store: they should be collected in dry
weather when they are required to be kept.[153]
153. For a sea-store, an old and experienced cook from on board a man-of-war,
directs eggs to be rubbed with salt butter, and packed in layers with plenty of
bran between them. He says that the salt penetrates the shell, and tends to
preserve the eggs, which will require no additional salt when eaten. We give
the information to the reader as we received.
 TO COOK EGGS IN THE SHELL WITHOUT BOILING THEM.

(An admirable receipt.)

This mode of dressing eggs is not new; it seems, indeed, to have
been known in years long past, but not to have received the attention
which its excellence deserved. We saw it mentioned with much
commendation in a most useful little periodical, called the Cottage
Gardener, and had it tested immediately with various modifications
and with entire success. After many trials, we give the following as
the best and most uniform in its results of our numerous
experiments. First, put some boiling water into a large basin—a slop-
basin for example—and let it remain for a few seconds, then turn it
out, lay in the egg (or eggs), and roll it over, to take the chill off the
shell, that it may not crack from the sudden application of heat; and
pour in—and upon the egg—quite boiling water from a kettle, until it
is completely immersed; put a plate over it instantly, and let it remain,
upon the table, for twelve minutes, when it will be found perfectly and
beautifully cooked, entirely free from all flavour and appearance of
rawness, and yet so lightly and delicately dressed as to suit even
persons who cannot take eggs at all when boiled in the usual way. It
should be turned when something more than half done, but the plate
should be replaced as quickly as possible. Two eggs will require
scarcely more time than one; but some additional minutes must be
allowed for any number beyond that. The process may always be
quickened by changing the water when it has cooled a little, for more
that is fast boiling: the eggs may, in fact, be rendered quite hard by
the same means, but then no advantage is obtained over the old
method of cooking them.
12 minutes.
Obs.—This is one of the receipts which we have re-produced here
from our cookery for invalids, on account of its adaptation to the
taste generally.
 TO BOIL EGGS IN THE SHELL.

Even this very simple process demands a certain degree of care,

for if the eggs be brought from a cold larder, and suddenly plunged
into boiling water they will frequently break immediately, and a large
portion will often escape from the shells. In winter they should be
held for an instant over the steam from the saucepan before they are
laid in, and they should be put gently into it. Three minutes will boil
them sufficiently for persons who like the whites in a partially liquid
state. Five minutes, exact time, if they be fresh and fine, will harden
the whites only, and leave the yolks still liquid. Few eaters require
them more dressed than this; but eight or ten minutes will render
them hard. Eggs should always be cooked in sufficient water to
cover them completely.
To boil very lightly, 3 minutes; to render the whites firm, 4-1/2 to 5
minutes; hard eggs, 8 to 10 minutes (15 minutes for salad dressing.)
 TO DRESS THE EGGS OF THE GUINEA FOWL AND BANTAM.

The eggs of the Guinea-fowl—which are

small, very prettily shaped, and of a pale or
full fawn-colour (for in this they vary)—are
much esteemed by epicures, being very
rich and excellent eating. They are
generally somewhat higher in price than the
common hens’ eggs, even in Norfolk,
Suffolk, and other counties where they most
abound; and in London they are usually
expensive. They may be cooked in the shell without boiling by the
method we have already given: eight or nine minutes will cook them
so. About three and a half of gentle boiling will render the whites
firm, and ten will harden them quite through. They are often served
instead of plovers’ eggs, and are sent to table embedded in moss in
the same manner. They may also be shelled, and used whole to
decorate a salad.
The eggs of the bantam, which are scarcely more than half the
size of these, and of which the shells are much thinner, will require
less time to cook. They form an elegant decoration for a salad, if
boiled hard, which they will become in five or six minutes; and for a
mince of fowl, or veal and oysters, when poached.
Two minutes’ poaching in an enamelled saucepan[154] will be
sufficient for these delicate little eggs, without positive boiling. They
should be carefully broken and put gently into water at boiling point,
but which has ceased to move, and left undisturbed by the side of
the fire until the yolks are just set on the surface.
154. In any other kind, an additional half minute may be required.
Guinea-fowls’ eggs, quite hard, 10 minutes. For eating (by new
method, 8 to 9 minutes), 3 to 4 minutes.
Bantams’, hard, 6 minutes; soft, 2-1/2 to 3 minutes.
 TO DRESS TURKEYS’ EGGS.

Turkeys’ eggs are not, we believe, brought very abundantly into

the London market,[155] but their superiority to those of the common
fowl is well known in the counties where the birds are principally
reared. Though of large size they are delicate in flavour, and are
equally valuable for the breakfast-table—cooked simply in the shell
—or for compounding any of the dishes for which hens’ eggs are
commonly in request. They make super-excellent sauce, omlets,
custards, and puddings; and are especially to be recommended
poached, or served by any other of the following receipts. Those of
the smallest size and palest colour, which are the eggs of the young
birds, are the best adapted for serving boiled in the shells: they are
sometimes almost white. Those of the full grown turkeys are thickly
speckled, of a deep tawny hue or fawn colour.
155. Constant supplies of them are brought from France to the towns upon the
coast; and from the thickness of their shells they remain eatable much longer
than the common eggs; they are also reasonable in price.

6 minutes will render the whites firm; 4 minutes will poach them.
 FORCED TURKEYS’ EGGS (OR SWANS’).

(An Excellent Entremets.)

Boil gently for twenty minutes in plenty of water, that they may be
entirely covered with it, five or six fresh turkeys’ eggs, and when they
are done lift them into a large pan of water to cool. By changing the
water once or twice they will become cold more rapidly, and they
must not be used until they are perfectly so.
Roll them in a cloth, pressing lightly on them to break the shells;
clear them off, and halve the eggs evenly lengthwise. Take out the
yolks with care, and pound them to a smooth paste in a mortar with
an ounce and a half, or two ounces at the utmost, of pure-flavoured
butter to the half dozen, a small half-teaspoonful of salt, a little finely
grated nutmeg, and some cayenne, also in fine powder: a little mace,
—one of the most delicate of all seasonings when judiciously used—
may be added with good effect. Blend these ingredients thoroughly,
and then add to them by degrees one raw hen’s egg slightly
whisked, and the yolk of a second, or a dessertspoonful or two of
sweet rich cream. One common egg is sufficient for four of the turkey
egg-yolks. Beat up the mass, which will now be of the consistence of
a thick batter, well and lightly, and proceed to fill the whites with it,
having first cut a small slice from each half to make it stand evenly
on the dish, and hollowed the inside with the point of a sharp knife,
so as to render it of equal thickness throughout. Fill them full and
high; smooth the yolks gently with the blade of a knife, arrange the
eggs on a dish, and place them in a gentle oven for a quarter of an
hour. Serve them directly they are taken from it.
The eggs thus dressed will afford an admirable dish for the second
course, either quite simply served, or with good gravy highly
flavoured with fresh mushrooms, poured under them.
The same ingredients may be pressed into very small buttered
cups and baked for fifteen minutes, then turned on to a dish and
sauced with a little Espagnole, or other rich brown gravy, or served
without.
 Obs.—We would recommend that the whites of swans’ eggs,
which as we have said are extremely beautiful, should be filled with
the above preparation in preference to their own yolks: they will of
course, require longer baking.
 TO BOIL A SWAN’S EGG HARD.

Swans’ eggs are much more delicate than from their size, and
from the tendency of the birds to feed on fish might be supposed;
and when boiled hard and shelled, their appearance is beautiful, the
white being of remarkable purity and transparency. Take as much
water as will cover the egg (or eggs) well in every part, let it boil
quickly, then take it from the fire, and as soon as the water ceases to
move put in the egg, and leave it by the side of the fire—without
allowing it to boil—for twenty minutes, and turn it gently once or
twice in the time; then put on the cover of the stewpan and boil it
gently for a quarter of an hour; take it quite from the fire, and in five
minutes put it into a basin and throw a cloth, once or twice folded,
over it, and let it cool slowly. It will retain the heat for a very long
time, and as it should be quite cold before it is cut, it should be boiled
early if wanted to serve the same day. Halve it evenly with a sharp
knife lengthwise, take out the yolk with care, and prepare it for table,
either by the receipt which follows, or by that for forced eggs,
Chapter VI.
 SWAN’S EGG, EN SALADE.

We found that the yolk of the egg, when boiled as above, could be
rendered perfectly smooth and cream-like, by mashing it on a
dish[156] with a broad-bladed knife, and working it well with the
other ingredients: the whole was easily blended into a mass of
uniform colour, in which not the smallest lump of butter or egg was
perceptible. Mix it intimately with an ounce or two of firm fresh butter,
a rather high seasoning of cayenne, some salt, or a teaspoonful or
two of essence of anchovies, and about as much of chili vinegar or
lemon-juice. To these minced herbs or eschalots can be added at
pleasure. Fill the whites with the mixture, and serve them in a bowl
two-thirds filled with salad, sauced as usual; or use them merely as a
decoration for a lobster or German salad.
156. We chanced, when we received our first present of swan’s eggs, to be in a
house where there was no mortar—a common deficiency in English culinary
departments.
 TO POACH EGGS.

Take for this purpose a wide and delicately clean pan about half-
filled with the clearest spring-water; throw in a small saltspoonful of
salt, and place it over a fire quite free from smoke. Break some new
laid eggs into separate cups, and do this with care, that the yolks
may not be injured. When the water boils, draw back the pan, glide
the eggs gently into it, and let them stand until the whites appear
almost set, which will be in about a minute: then, without shaking
them, move the pan over the fire, and just simmer them from two
minutes and a half to three minutes. Lift them out separately with a
slice, trim quickly off the ragged edges, and serve them upon
dressed spinach, or upon minced veal, turkey, or chicken; or dish
them for an invalid, upon delicately toasted bread, sliced thick, and
freed from crust: it is an improvement to have the bread buttered, but
it is then less wholesome.
Comparative time of poaching eggs. Swans’ eggs, 5 to 6 minutes,
(in basin, 10 minutes.) Turkeys’ eggs 4 minutes. Hens’ eggs, 3 to 3-
1/2 minutes. Guinea-fowls’, 2 to 3 minutes. Bantams’, 2 minutes.
Obs.—All eggs may be poached without boiling if kept just at
simmering point, but one boil quite at last will assist to detach them
from the stewpan, from which they should always be very carefully
lifted on what is called a fish or egg-slice. There are pans made on
purpose for poaching and frying them in good form; but they do not,
we believe, answer particularly well. If broken into cups slightly
rubbed with butter, and simmered in them, their roundness of shape
will be best preserved.
 POACHED EGGS WITH GRAVY. (ENTREMETS.)

Œufs Pochés au Jus.

Dress the eggs as above, giving them as good an appearance as
possible, lay them into a very hot dish, and sauce them with some
rich, clear, boiling veal gravy, or with some Espagnole. Each egg, for
variety, may be dished upon a crouton of bread cut with a fluted
paste-cutter, and fried a pale brown: the sauce should then be
poured round, not over them.
Poaching is the best mode of dressing a swan’s egg,[157] as it
renders it more than any other delicate in flavour; it is usually served
on a bed of spinach. Only the eggs of quite young swans are suited
to the table: one is sufficient for a dish. It may be laid on a large
crouton of fried bread, and sauced with highly flavoured gravy, or
with tomata-sauce well seasoned with eschalots.
157. We fear that want of space must compel us to omit some other receipts for
swans’ eggs, which we had prepared for this chapter.