TYPES OF FABRICS

Before starting to talk about the types of weaving, it is important to know that weaving is
the process by which threads are intertwined to obtain fabrics.

During the production of weaving we can find different types of fabrics which are; flat
woven, knitted and nonwovens.

PLANE WEAVING

They are fabrics formed by the interweaving of two threads where we can see the warp,
which is the set of threads that go in the vertical direction of the loom, and the t branch is
the series of threads that cross with the warp in a horizontal direction to the loom. .

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FLAT WEAVE

The edge always runs along the length of the fabric (warp), it is that edge it has so that it
does not unravel in the roll.

Most fabrics stretch less in the warp direction.

The threads of the fabric in the warp direction are straighter, presenting fewer waves.

FLAT WEAVE FABRICS

TAFETA: The greatest number of weaves is achieved by square-balanced or unbalanced, it

is the one that wrinkles the most, the one that frays the most and the least absorbent.

Twill: diagonal line less weaves than plain weave. It wrinkles less, frays more and is more
flexible than plain weave or taffeta.
Satin

KNITTING

Knitting is a fabric manufacturing process in which needles are used to form a series of
interlocking meshes from one or more threads, or from a set of threads.

KNIT FABRIC CLASSIFICATION

Ø Knitted fabric knitted by weft; Circular machine is used rectilinear machine

Ø Warp knitted fabric; tricot or ketten machine, raschel machine and others such as simplex
and milanese machines

WEFT KNITTING

Ø the meshes are formed horizontally.

Ø the meshes are joined side by side in the same pass.

Ø the connections are horizontal

Ø easy to unknot fabric.

WARP KNITTING

Ø the meshes are formed vertically

Ø the meshes are joined together in adjacent passes

Ø the connections are diagonal and vertical.

Ø fabric difficult to unweave.

DIFFERENCES

WEFT KNIT FABRIC WAVE KNIT FABRIC

Greater elasticity in two directions. Less elasticity. Transverse elasticity, little elasticity
along the length.
Less light fabrics. Lighter fabrics

Less stability Greater stability

More Design Possibility Greater Production

Most of it runs, it unravels easily. It doesn't run or unravel.

It is woven in a rectilinear and circular machine. It is woven only in a rectilinear machine.

You can knit complete garments, pieces of

garments and fabrics Only fabrics are made in pieces

It can be woven with yarns and filaments. It can only be woven with filament threads.
FLAT WEAVE

It is that fabric that is made up of two types of threads, one longitudinal called
warp and another transversal called weft.

WARP AND WEFT: The longitudinal series of threads is called warp and each
of the elements that constitute it is called thread. The transversal series is called a
plot and each of its units is called a pass.

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FLAT WEAVE

The edge always runs along the length of the fabric (warp), it is that edge it has
so that it does not unravel in the roll.

Most fabrics stretch less in the warp direction.

Ø The fabric threads in the warp direction are straighter, presenting fewer waves

TAFFETA OR FLAT

All kinds of fabrics are made with taffeta, from gauze used in surgery to jackets,
including shirting, lingerie, pants, skirts, etc. Although there is only one type of
taffeta, its visual appearance can vary depending on the densities of the warp and
weft threads, in addition to the counts and twist of the threads used. Taffeta is the
weave that produces the most yarn contraction in the fabric. It is, therefore, the
drawing of more ligation points, giving the most compact structure that can be
obtained in a fabric. It is the simplest ligament, the oldest and the one with the
shortest course.

SERGE

The appearance offered by the fundamental twills in the fabric is one of the
raised diagonals formed by the warp threads. These are alternated with other
diagonals, formed in a groove by the passes of the weft. Thread densities and
counts have a decisive influence on the appearance of twills. If the density and
count of the warp and weft threads are the same, the twill cords will have an
inclination of an angle of 45°, and if one of these elements varies, the angle of
inclination will be considerably altered.

Sometimes it is convenient for the diagonal of the twills to be from right to left or
vice versa, in these cases it is said to be in “S” or “Z”. It is the second
fundamental ligament, its staggered jumps are 1.
At least you can work with 3 squares, although in practice with 6 and it is called
3 twill or 2/1 twill.

SATIN OR SATIN

It is the ligament whose stagger points make jumps other than unity. As a
fundamental ligament it can be classified as regular, irregular and incomplete. In
each thread and pass there will be at least one take or one leave. Satin weave
fabrics are almost always made with filament yarns in bright colors. The hems of
the warp threads almost completely cover the surface, due to the shiny fibers and
the long hems, satin is one of the most lustrous fabrics manufactured.

EXERCISE IN CLASS

SERGE

3.2 Sarg 45° wave effect (1.2)

5x1=5

5x2=10

KNITTING

Knitting is a fabric manufacturing process in which needles are used to form a

series of interlocking meshes from one or more threads, or from a set of threads.

KNIT FABRIC CLASSIFICATION

Ø Knitted fabric knitted by weft; Circular machine is used rectilinear machine

Ø Warp knitted fabric; tricot or ketten machine, raschel machine and others such
as simplex and milanese machines

WEFT KNITTING

Ø the meshes are formed horizontally.

Ø the meshes are joined side by side in the same pass.

Ø the connections are horizontal

Ø easy to unknot fabric.

WARP KNITTING

Ø the meshes are formed vertically

Ø the meshes are joined together in adjacent passes

Ø the connections are diagonal and vertical.

Ø fabric difficult to unweave.

DIFFERENCES

WEFT KNIT FABRIC WAVE KNIT FABRIC

Greater elasticity in two directions. Less elasticity. Transverse elasticity, little

elasticity along the length.

Less light fabrics. Lighter fabrics

Less stability Greater stability

More Design Possibility Greater Production

Most of it runs, it unravels easily. It doesn't run or unravel.

It is woven in a rectilinear and circular machine. It is woven only in a rectilinear

machine.

You can knit complete garments, pieces of

garments and fabrics Only fabrics are made in pieces

It can be woven with yarn and filaments. It can only be woven with filament
threads.

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN FLAT FABRIC AND KNITTED FABRIC

The flat weave is made up of 2 threads: one runs horizontally and the other runs
vertically. It can be compared to the basic weaving of the loom. Some flat weave
fabrics are: chiffon, challis, denim, drill, etc.

Knitted fabric is generally made up of 1 thread that is intertwined during the

production of the fabric. Due to their shape, the fabrics of this fabric have greater
elasticity, you could say that they are the ones that “stretch”. Some knitted
fabrics are: Cotton, Lycra, viscose, lace, Nylon, etc.

HISTORY OF KNITTING

Knitted fabric or knitwear is one that is woven into meshes by interlacing the
threads. It basically consists of passing a loop of thread through another loop,
using needles just as it is knitted by hand. It is impossible to pinpoint exactly
when knitting made its appearance. A shawl and mail cap with an assigned age of
2,500 years were found in the tombs of Upper Egypt. The origins date back to the
ancient fishing villages that knotted thick threads to form nets. The operation
consisted of forming a network by interweaving threads using manual needles in
a series of ties linked together. Weaving using needles was brought to Europe by
the Arab people in the 5th century. Later in the 14th and 15th centuries it
developed strongly in England and Scotland. And it was the Scots who are
credited with the introduction of mesh fabric in France. In 1589, the English
clergyman William Lee invented a machine for knitting stockings,
revolutionizing the activity that until then was manual. Although Queen
Elizabeth I of England denied William Lee a patent for his invention, he already

Considered a threat to weavers, the machine was used in other European

countries and formed the basis for future improvements. In 1757, a British cotton
spinner named Jedediah Strutt invented an attachment for the stocking frame that
allowed ribbed fabrics to be made. Around 1800 the British engineer Marc I.
Brunel invented a circular hoop which he called the "tricoteur". Weaving thicker
threads became possible when Matthew Townsend incorporated a needle,
equipped at one end with a hook with a closure. This invention, fundamental in
the development of circular knitting machines, was patented in 1858. In 1864,
William Cotton introduced an improvement in mechanical machines. He called
them 'Cotton's system' and its improvement was that it could shape the heels and
toes of stockings and socks. In 1889, automatic knitting machines were
introduced for the first time.

KNITTING

The process of hand weaving, today once again becoming a popular and useful
entertainment, preceded in time obtained by mechanical means. It is known that
tight-fitting knitted garments were used to cover the legs in Italy as early as the
mid-13th century. This type of training (using 2 crochet needles) remained
unchanged for many centuries.
The needles were made up of smooth pieces of metal that were shaped into
needles and the points were removed.

The fast, flexible hand knitting needle of our day is a creation of the present
century.

In the 15th century, companies of artisans gathered in guilds and brotherhoods

were formed in Germany, which were dedicated to the production of stockings
and gloves. The performance of a skilled hand weaving operator was about 120
to 150 meshes per minute; In comparison, a modern high-performance circular
machine currently produces, in the same period of time, an average of 20 million
meshes.

In 1589 ==è WILLIAM LEE, invented the mechanical formation of the point.
With this brilliant invention he crowned his years of efforts in pursuit of the
construction of a manual knitting machine.

When in 1589 he produced the first mechanical manufacturing stockings there,

his resources and savings were completely exhausted; However, he had
developed the basic principle of mechanical point formation, a principle that has
remained valid to this day.

This machine, equipped with a press needle, could produce 16 meshes at a time
and in the same time that an expert operator would knit a single one. The
procedure for this was solved by LEE in the way that the amount of thread for
each stitch is arranged in the form of loops on the shaft (body) of the needles
successively, carrying out the collection. In the second part of the operation, all
the loops of the previous stitches are simultaneously passed over the new ones,
thus forming a new pass of stitches.

==è JEDEDIATH STRUTT, invents the technique of weaving with two stitches;
To do this, it equips the manual knitting machine with an additional mechanism,
which under the name “Derby Rib Machine”, achieved worldwide fame.

STRUTT arranged between the horizontal needles of the machine a new line of
vertical needles, which in turn collect the meshes, forming meshes with them,
which take on the appearance of right-hand meshes in relation to the previous
ones that appear on the reverse between those.. This mechanism could be
advanced or reversed, thus being able to produce ribbed or smooth fabrics at will.
In 1798 ==è Monsieur DECROIX, arranged the needles radially in a crown,
which rotated constantly, making the needles pass in front of the mesh forming
elements. The fixed needle circular machine was born.

This idea arose as a consequence of the work carried out by rectilinear machines,
in which initially only one piece could be woven widthwise for later cutting. In
these machines, to obtain correct dot formation, they had to be operated slowly,
so it was soon concluded that to obtain greater production, “a constant rotary
mesh formation movement” was needed instead of the periodic linear motion.
rectilinear machines.

Once this was possible, fixed-needle circular knitting machines took over the
production of piece fabric for cut garments, while manual rectilinear machines
were long used for the production of reduced garments.

In 1805 ==è JOSEPH MARIE JACQUARD, presented in Lyon (France), his

control apparatus for selecting the composition of the warp on flat shuttle looms.
His MACHINE for lifting the healds, very poorly judged and fought at the
beginning, meant the end of monotonous work that was detrimental to the health
of the workers involved in lifting healds.

It is not clear when JACQUARD became interested in the problems of the

knitting industry, after the success in the field of flat knitting. The reality is,
however, that today we find the JACQUARD device in different versions, in
knitting machines to achieve the same purpose: The individual selection of the
needles for weaving and mesh transfer, of the plates or pins for obtaining of
various effects.

In 1847 ==è MATTHEW TOWNSEND, obtained the patent for his invention of
the latch needle (also called selfactin, automatic or Townsend, in his honor).
With it, a new era of knitting technique begins.

With the use of these needles, the formation of the mesh is easier, since the use of
the press is not necessary. This translated into: Simplification of mechanisms,
increase in production speeds and reduction in costs.

In 1850 ==è The CIRCULAR machine appeared as a development of the English

Knit Circular machine. Initially it was equipped with a crochet hook or press in a
vertical position. Later it was built with a latch needle, which can be moved
individually. This is characteristic of current circular machines.
This type of machine was built and developed between 1850 and 1860 by the
Englishman BRUNEL. These machines were used for the production of tubular
fabrics, from which the pieces for making stockings were cut.

In a later stage this machine was built in larger diameters, to produce wider
fabrics, which allowed its use in the field of Tricot garments (Knitted Fabric
garments).

In 1852 ==è THEDDOR GROZ, opened his workshop in Ebingen, in the

Swabian Jura region, and Ernst Beckert began manufacturing needles in
Chemnitz; both pursued the idea of offering producers of knitted stockings

from its region its best needles; needles that would not bend or break. This
implied the abandonment of iron and the adoption of steel for its manufacture.

Currently the Groz Beckert company offers needles exactly adapted to each
model of knitting machine. The company's archive contains about 50,000
different types of needles and there are hardly any problems in the formation of
the point; Groz Beckert technicians participate in their solution, being for this
reason the precursors of the technological development of the needle.

In 1878 ==è D. GRISWOLD obtains a patent for its circular machine that allows
1x1 fabrics to be manufactured in the desired distribution. In this type of
machine, the vertical needles of the cylinder are complemented by the horizontal
ones arranged radially on the plate and also individually actuated. For the first
time, the names of small and large diameter circular grip machines appear.

In 1910 ==è The firm ROBERT WALTER SCOTT of Philadelphia obtained the
patent for its INTERLOCK fabric. This fabric consists of a double-sided bond
composed of two 1x1 criss-cross ribs.

In 1918 ==è The first small-diameter double-cylinder circular machine with

double-headed needles and sliders for their transfer was built in England by the
WILDT firm. This LINKS – LINKS circular machine works with rotating
cylinders, transferring the needles between them and was used in the manufacture
of the world famous “DERBY Socks” with their wide ribbed Links – Links.

In 1920 ==è The use of the circular machine increased, in addition to the straight
knitting machine, in the production of fabrics with colored samples, for this
purpose devices were used to change threads and individual needle selection
systems using WHEELS. SELECTION, perforated steel or paper tapes, etc.
The desire to have larger sample fields is evident in the result of years of research
and testing in its highest perfection or Alzada's Jacquard device, whose arcade
threads were spun together to the plates.

In 1935 ==è The firm MAYER & CIE built its first circular machines after it
began manufacturing circular knitting looms in 1906. In 1939, mass production
of these was introduced in this company.

After 1946, with the increase in the number of sets and the development of new
technologies in the field of needles, circular machines experienced a notable
increase in production and developed new products.

The old thread supply systems by means of gear wheels are replaced by modern
belt feeding systems and thread consumption measurement, with reserve, for
plain fabrics and with various bindings and also storage devices for Jacquard
fabrics =è IRO. These new mechanisms consciously assume the control and
monitoring of the thread feeding. Peripheral equipment is gaining increasing
importance, in order to be able to respond to the demands imposed by the speed
of the machines and the quality required for the fabric.

In 1963 ==è At the international textile machinery exhibition in Hanover, the era
of ELECTRONICS opens for this sector of the industry. The MORAT firm
presents the first machine with individual Electronic needle selection with its
“MORATRONIC” controlled by a photoelectric tape and which will then be put
into production as a large series machine. Nowadays, computers are used to store
data and floppy disks to support it.

In 1967 ==è at the international ITMA fair in Basel, the legendary MAYER OVJ
36 machine was presented, probably the most successful circular machine in the
world. In the following years it was c