OVERLOCK MACHINE

SERIES 3000

MODEL 300
MODEL 320

MANUAL
Security instructions
When using electrical appliances,
you should know and follow basic
safety precautions, including the
following:

Please read all instructions

carefully before using the
machine.
Attention: To reduce the risk of
electrocution:

Always pay attention to the machine

when it is plugged in. After using or
cleaning your machine, always
unplug it from the wall.

Always unplug the machine before

changing a bulb. Use 15W
maximum.
Warning to reduce risks of burns,
electrocution or injury to persons:

Do not allow the machine to be used

as a toy. Keep children away from
the machine when it is working.

Use this machine only for uses

described in this manual. Use only
implements recommended by the
manufacturer as reported in this
manual.

Never operate the machine if it has

been damaged or cut. If it does not
work properly, take the machine to
an authorized service center for
examination, repair or adjustment of
the electrical mechanism.

This machine is equipped with a

special cable which, if damaged,
must be replaced with an identical
one. You can get it from your seller.

Never operate the machine with the

vents blocked. Keep them open and
free and the pedal clean and free of
dirt.

Do not insert or drop any objects

into the vents

Do not operate the machine in

places where aerosols or flammable
products have been sprayed.
Do not place anything on the
control pedal as the machine may
start accidentally and the motor
may overheat.

To disconnect, turn all controls to

the OFF position, then unplug from
outlet.

Do not pull on the cord to

disconnect the plug, to disconnect,
do so directly from the plug.

Keep your fingers away from

moving parts. Be careful with the
needle when you are working.

Always use an appropriate needle

plate. An incorrect plate will cause
the needle to break.
Use only identical parts for
replacement.

Save these instructions

When working near the needle, be
careful not to insert your fingers.
When using the machine for the
first time, insert a piece of fabric
under the pedal and run the machine
without thread for a few minutes.
Then prepare to dry any oil spills
that may appear.
CONTENT

1. Know your machine

Identification characters
Accessories
Adjusting the machine
Preparing to thread
Caliper Width Cut
Thread cutter. changing the pedal
Changing the needle, thread and fabric

2. starting to sew
Threading the machine
Aid
Testing overlock stitches
Setting characters
3 thread overlock with one needle
Converting to 2-wire usage
Narrow picot stitch hem
Adjusting the thread tension
Adjusting stitch length, cutting width and stitch index (B)
Differential feeding
Pedal pressure regulator
Sewing with extra heavy or multi-ply fabric
Basic techniques
Turning the corners out without cutting the threads
Turning the axes of curves. Removing stitches from the sewn fabric
Targeted Overlock
Decorative effects
Differential Feed Applications

3. Carrying your machine

Replacing and disengaging the movable cutter
Removing the front cover
Cleaning and oiling.

4. Problem and performance review

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS
Model 300 320
Number of threads 3 or 4 wires 2, 3 or 4 wires
Width of over-axis ptda. 6mm (left needle) and 3.8mm (right needle)
Needle HA1 – SP.HA X 1 (130/705H)

Stitch length 1-5mm

Stitch speed Up to 1300 stitches per minute
Dimensions 320mm(W) x 280mm(D) x 280mm(H)
Weight 8Kgs. (17.6 lbs.)

YO. Know your machine

Identification characters
1. pedal regulator 16. 2-wire converter trainer
2. sewing light 17. Threading character
3. pedal lever 18. lint tray
4. Thread cutter (320 model only) 19. pedal control
5. needle plate 20. Release lever
6. Pedal 21. Pedal release lever
7. Over-axis cutting width marker 22. reel disc
8. Work table 23. Power control marker Diff.
9. Thread guide pole 24. Long stitch marker
10. Left needle tension control 25. hand wheel
11. Right needle tension control 26. Plug connector socket
12. Bottom linker tension control 27. Power and light switch
13. Top linker tension control 28. Front cover
14. Thread needle guides 29. Movable cutter
15. Thread cutter lever (320 model only) 30. Top linker
31. Bottom linker

Accessories

All exposed parts can be obtained from your supplier.

1. 2-wire converter (Mod. 320)
2. Stitch index (B) (Mod. 320)
3. Needle adjustment (option)
4. Brush (option)
5. Screwdriver (small)
6. Cassette size (option)
7. Machine cover
8. Screwdriver (long)
9. Lubricant
10. Movable cutter
11. Key
12. thread network
13. Tweezers
14. reel disc
15. reel maintainer
16. cable guide
17. Accessories suitcase
*Only the 320 model has accessory
storage on the back of the front
cover.

Adjusting your machine

a) Clean any oil residue on the

needle plate and stretcher areas
b) PEDAL: Plug the pedal plug
into the socket, and then plug into the
wall.
c) POWER SWITCH: The machine will not operate until the power switch is turned
on. This also causes the machine controls and light to come on. When leaving the
machine alone, unplug it from the wall.
d) OPEN THE FRONT COVER: To open, drag to the right and down toward you.
e) OPENING THE WORKTABLE: To open the worktable, drag the lever towards
you with your right hand and place the pedal in front of you with your left hand.
 Preparing to thread

THREAD GUIDE POLE

Drag the thread guide pole to the highest position until you hear a “click” sound. Place the
thread spools on the tips and even the thread through the guides on the pole from back to
front.

The thread guide pole can keep the spools on the base by dragging down the bed as illustrated
in the figure.
Spool disc and spool container for cones
For long cone reels, use a rubber container with the wide end on top, and for small cone reels,
use the same rubber container but with the narrow end on top.

reel nets
Polyester or nylon threads will come loose when you unwind. To maintain feed consistency on
such lines, use reel netting.
lint tray
With the lint tray located in this position, it will collect all your unusable materials. After
completing the work, if you turn the tray upward in the direction shown, indicated in reference
C, you will be located in lot D and the tip of your left hand will slide into the lower hole B.

Cutting width level

When using the wide cutting level, the fabric is cut downwards and sewn at the same distance
from its axis, within the distance of the set width.

Thread cutter (model 320)

The thread cutter is built into the needle plate. Make sure the power switch is off, then trim the
thread near the end of the weave by pushing the lever as shown in the illustration.
changing the pedal
Make sure the needle is in the high position. Raise the pedal lever.

a) Push the lever to remove the pedal

b) Place the desired pedal on the plane of the needle lining up the holes
c) Lower the pedal lever and push it so the container latches onto the pedal.

changing the needle

Raise the needle bar to its highest point by turning the hand wheel toward you, leaving the pedal
down. Loosen the clamp screw to remove the needle, place the new needle with the flat side
facing away from you on the needle bar as far as it will go, then tighten the screw.
Needle, thread and fabric characters
Use needles type HA X 1 SP, HA X 1 (130/705H).
Tissue Thread Needle
Cotton Light weight Cotton No. 100

Heavyweight Polyester No. 60-50

Cotton No. 60
Wool Light weight Polyester No. 80
Cotton No. 60
Trench coat Polyester No. 80-60
Cotton 60
Heavyweight Polyester 50-60 90 (14) For general
Cotton 60 sewing
Synthetic Light weight Polyester 100-80
fiber Cotton 120-80 75 (11) For light
weight fabrics
Heavyweight Polyester 60
Cotton 60
Tissue Tricot Polyester 80-60
Cotton 80-60
sweater Polyester 60-50
Cotton 60
Wool
Polyester 60-50 Nylon

Note: Keep in mind that the lower and upper loopers will be used simultaneously in the same
amount of thread as needles. When purchasing sewing thread, you should purchase enough for
what you need.

II. starting to sew

Threading your machine:

Incorrect threading may cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, or other problems.

Try to correct the thread before moving it to the test seam. The threading must be carried in the
sequence of: Bottom looper – Top looper – Needle.

Open the front cover and work table. Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the
handwheel toward you, and lift the pedal.

Before re-threading the lower looper, remove the threads from the needle eye, rethread the
lower looper. This will prevent tangles.

NOTE: Thread tension is released when the pedal is lifted.

Threading the bottom linker:

1 .- Feed the thread through the guide as illustrated

2 .- Drag the lower thread through the tension lot. Holding the thread with your left hand, drag
it down with your right hand firmly.
3 .- Level the thread through the guide as illustrated.
4 .- Pass the thread through the eyelet of the lower linker, and hook it around part A as
indicated by the arrow. Leave about 4 inches (10cm) extra of thread.
Threading the top linker

1 .- Feed the thread through the thread guide as illustrated

2 .- Drag the upper thread through the lot, holding the thread with your left hand.
3 .- Level the thread through the thread guide as illustrated
4 .- Pass the thread through the guide wire and looper eyelet, leaving a length
surplus of about 4! (10cm.)
Threading the needles

1 Feed the thread through the guide as illustrated

2 Level the needle threads across the tension lot of your left hand.
Hold the thread with your left hand, drag it down with your right hand firmly.
3 Level the thread through the thread guide as illustrated
4 Thread the needles from front to back through the needle eye and
Pull the threads to the back along the right side of the pedal, leaving an extra 4”
(10cm) length.
Helpful tips
Replacing the thread spools
When replacing the spools, the following steps will help you get a faster result.

a) Cut the existing thread near the spools. Tie the end cuts of thread from the new
spools as illustrated (navy fabric).
b) lift the pedal
c) Lower the needle bar to its lowest position by turning the hand wheel toward
you. Carefully pull the existing thread until the connecting knot passes through
the needle eyelet and looper eyelets.

Cutting the needle thread

A frayed thread can cause the needle to not be threaded correctly or have difficulty threading.
Level the thread near the thread cutter on the needle plate and push the cutter lever (model 320)
or level the thread by passing under the movable cutter and turn the hand wheel towards you to
obtain the result as shown in the figure. figure.

Testing OVERLOCK stitches

After threading is complete, use a test piece of fabric to sew, as follows:

a) Gently drag all the threads to the left, lower the pedal. Turn the hand wheel
towards you a few times to see if the stitches are formed correctly.

b) Start the machine at low speed and feed in the test fabric under the pedal by
gently pushing it forward (This can be done with the pedal down on most fabrics
except bulky materials). Guide the fabric gently so that the machine feeds the
material automatically.
c) Check thread tensions using a test fabric.
d) At the end of weaving, operate the machine at low speed, gently
Drag the fabric back until around 5 to 6cm have been produced. of extra stitches
without fabric.
e) Cut the thread by pushing the cutter lever down, or with scissors.
3-thread OVERLOCK with 1 needle

A measurement of 6mm will be produced. when threading the LEFT needle, and a measurement
of 3.8mm when threading the RIGHT.

Keep the unused needle on the needle stretcher as shown in the figure.
 Number of threads 4 3 3 2

6 4- -5- 4 4-6 6 -6- 4-6

Overedge cutting width dial -6-
Needle to use Left&Right Left Right Left Right Right Left&Right Left Right

Stitch finger EITHER 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

EITHE
0 0 0
Two thread converter R

Left needle thread -4- 4- 0- -4- 0- -4-

— — — — — —.

—
Voltage
Right needle thread -4- -4- * 0- -4- -4- .4. -4- — -5
—
control
-4- -4- ■4- -4 -4 -4- -4- -4- —• — — —
Upper looper thread
-4- 7- 7- 0- -4- -4- 0- -4- 1-
Lower looper thread -4- -4- 0-
Stit ch length control 25-3.5 25-3.5 3-5 2-2.5 *-R- *-p- 25-3.5 2.5-3.5 2-3.5 1-2

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Narrow hem
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Converting to 2-wire use (model 320)
To achieve this, first open the front cover of the work table and raise the needle to its highest
position by turning the hand wheel towards you. Remove the right needle and use the left
needle. Please keep the unused needle on the stretcher.

Remove the cover as shown in figure 1.

Attach the 2-wire converter onto the top linker as shown in figure 2 and 3.

When not using the cover, insert it all the way and hold as shown in figure 4.

Narrow rolled hem, PICOT stitch

The narrow, rolled shafts are ideal for use on thin materials such as GEORGETTE, SILK,
etc.

You can also generate PICOT stitch in particular when sewing on materials such as scarves.

In view of the nature of these hems, they are not the most suitable for use on hard and heavy
materials.

1. lift the pedal

2. Open the front cover and work table
3. Remove the index stitch from the needle plate with the screwdriver and keep
it in the front cover as shown in the figure (model 320) or in the accessory
case.
 4. Adjust the machine according to the “ADJUSTMENT CHART”

NOTE: a) Please use according to the recommended threads to obtain a

consistent result.
b) After finishing, readjust the index stitch into place. Make sure to insert it
as deep as possible as shown in figure 1.

RECOMMENDED THREAD
Narrow OVERLOCK shaft wound shaft
With 3 wires With 3 wires With 2 wires

Thread for the Polyester, Nylon Silk Nylon No. 100

needle
Polyester, Nylon, Silk (Less Nylon (Less elastic)
Top linker elastic)
Bottom linker
Adjusting thread tensions

Turning the tension dial to a higher number will cause a tighter tension and vice versa.
Test each tension on unused fabric to adjust to your need.

Using 2 wires
Using 4 wires

Adjusting stitch length

Turn the stitch length dial to the desired value.

The higher the number, the longer the stitch. This marker can adjust the stitch length from
1 to 5mm.

Adjusting over-axis cutting width

This can be adjusted from 4 to 7mm by simply rotating the dial according to the type of
fabric. The factory value is 6mm.

Turn it toward “5” if the fabric axis curls while sewing (Fig. 1)
Turn it toward “7” if the axle disengages. (Fig. 2).
Differential feeding
It has 2 independent feeders, one in the front (A) and one in the back (B).

Each feeder has a different mechanism which enables the feeding of material at different
radii.
Positive differential supply
WHEN YOU ADJUST THIS FEED, feeder (A) will make a longer stroke than feeder (B).
This will have the effect of accumulating the material under the pedal and compensating
for waves in the fabric.

Negative differential supply

WHEN YOU ADJUST THIS FEED, feeder (A) will make the shorter stroke than feeder
(B). This will cause the effect of stretching the material under the pedal in compensation
for wrinkles that may exist in the fabric.
Adjusting the differential feed
Adjust by simply turning the differential feed control dial in desired direction indicated by
the table below.
The adjustment can be made between 0.7 (negative effect) and 2 (positive effect). These
adjustments will give an improved feed radius.
For normal sewing, the dial should be set to 1.
The marker can be reset even while it is operating.

EFFECT AND KIND OF ADJUSTMENT RADIO OF

APPLICATION FEEDING FEEDING
Ripple-free seam Positive differential 1–2 |---|------------------|
supply
Without Neutral Power 1 |----------|-----------|
differential feeding

Wrinkle-free Negative differential 0.7 - 1 |------------------|-----|

sewing supply

Pedal pressure regulator

The pressure is set correctly at the factory, you will not need to adjust it for most of your
jobs. If you need to do so, turn the pedal depression regulator to a higher number to increase
or lower to decrease pressure.

Sewing with extra heavy or multi-ply fabric

You can use OVERLOCK on a wide range of fabric on this machine, but it is recommended
that you tighten the screw as shown in the figure when sewing heavier weight or multi-ply
fabrics. Open the work table to adjust.

Loosen the screw when working on light to normal weight fabric or rotate the width cutting
marker about axis, otherwise the fabric cannot be cut well. The machine is factory set for
normal weight fabrics.

BASIC TECHNIQUES
TURNING THE CORNERS OUTWARDS WITHOUT CUTTING THE THREADS

a) When you reach the axis of the fabric, stop stitching with the needle on it.
b) Lift the pedal and gently drag on the chain thread just enough
to clean the stitch indicator.
c) Turn the fabric, lower the pedal and start stitching in the new direction Fig. 1.

NOTE: When making OVERLOCK and embellishing at the same time, cut the fabric
along the new stitch line for about 3cm, before turning the fabric Fig. 2.

Turning the bent axes

For internal curves, guide the thread gently with the trim line of the fabric under the right
front of the pedal (or slightly to the left), apply pressure to point A in the direction of the
arrow with your left hand, and then At the same time apply a little opposite pressure on point
B with your right hand. Fig. 3.
For external curves, place under the pedal in a similar way but applying pressure in opposite
directions. Fig. 4.

Removing the stitches from the sewn fabric

To remove already sewn stitches, point the needle threads at intervals and pull out the looper
threads.

OVERLOCK by cable
It can be used to strengthen shoulders, sleeves or seams when creating garments. As a
decorative feature you can use knitting yarn in contrasting colors for enhancements to your
garment. Your machine is equipped with a pedal which has been designed to feed the thread
to the left of the safety stitch or to the right. Follow the following instructions:

1. Point the disassembled guide, in its accessory assembly, over the pole of
the thread guide (Fig. 1).
2. Locate a “filter” cord, such as cotton or crochet, wool, knitting thread, or
elastic fabric on the back of the machine's spool tip.
Route the cable through the thread guides (1) and (2) and then through the
left needle thread guide (3). See figure 1.
3. Insert the cable through the front or back hole (depending on operation, see
diagrams Figures 2 and 3), into the pedal and pass it under and behind it.
 4. Place the sewing material as normal. Start at low speed observing if the
cable is feeding properly and then increase the speed as desired.

TO INTERVENE ON SHOULDERS OR SLEEVES, pass the cable through the front hole,
ensuring that it is corrected between the left and right needle threads as it is guided through
the front hole (Fig. 2).

TO WORK ON SIDE SEAMS, route the cable through the back hole, making sure it is
positioned to the right of the needle thread. (Fig. 3).

FOR DECORATIVE PURPOSES, you can pass contrasting colors through the front or
back hole or if desired, pass wire or thread through each hole.

TO CREATE WAVY HEM (Fig. 4), pass through the back hole and begin the ROLLED
HEM. This is used for hemming skirts etc.

DECORATIVE EFFECTS
In addition to the normal OVERLOCK operation which is fully described in this instruction
manual, your machine can also be used for a number of decorative applications such as
couture stitches, or to create decorative lengths. Please review the following.

Decorative top stitch using two threads or 3 threads (flat stitch)

Fold the fabric along the line to be stitched and sew along the folded shaft, making sure not
to cut into the fold. Figure A.

Unfold the fabric, drag the thread ends inward and press flat.

The resulting appearance can be improved by using button holes or embroidery thread on the
bottom linker.

Using either 2-thread or 3-thread seams (flat seam)

Place two pieces of fabric on the wrong side together and perform OVERLOCK along the
axis. Unfold and press.

By using different fabric colors and thread, you can achieve a patchwork effect.
Using 3 tip type threads
Fold the fabric along a line to be dotted and sew along the folded axis, making sure not to
cut into the folded axis of the fabric. Drag the ends of the thread to the back and press.

Creating decorative shapes using 3 threads

Perform OVERLOCK on the line of a cable, holding it carefully with both hands, making
sure not to cut the shaft.

NOTE: *If you use the hem foot option the decorative stitch will be easier.
**Reduce the tension of the top looper when using thin thread.
Differential Feed Applications
Please analyze the past items of DIFFERENTIAL FEEDING
Differential feeding is designed to minimize wrinkling and curling.

1. Wrinkles They tend to occur in soft tissues. Adjust the

power control dial to less than 1, to correct this.

2. Ripple: They tend to occur in elastic fabrics. Adjust the

marker more than 1.

3. Collection : Differential feeding makes the

Gathering is easier on light weight fabrics, use it on edges, sleeves, heads, gloves, etc.
Adjust the control dial between 1.5 and 2 to get the best effect for your use.
IMPORTANT
The exact fit depends on the thickness and elasticity of the fabric. Even though the stitch
length can influence the fit. The longer the stitches, the more the fabric will contract.

Always do trial runs on a piece of fabric you are not going to use so you can find the best fit.

3. CARRYING YOUR MACHINE

Replacing the movable cutter

Replace the movable cutter as explained. You can find a replacement cutter in your
accessories.

NOTE: You do not need to replace the cutter, which is made of firm and heavy material.

1. Loosen the screw and remove the movable cutter

2. Close the work table. Lower the drive cutter arm to its lowest position by
turning the hand wheel toward you with your hand. In this position replace
the cutter and secure it with the screw. MAKE SURE THE SHAFT OF THE
CUTTER IS APPROXIMATELY 0.5MM BELOW THE SURFACE OF
THE CUTTER.

RELEASING THE MOVABLE CUTTER

If you want to sew without the cutter, open the work table and disengage the movable cutter
by pushing the handle to the left and turn it towards you as shown in the figure.

Make sure the knitting shaft is not wired the width of the selected overshaft or the top looper
and needle may be damaged.
REMOVING THE FRONT COVER
Unplug from outlet before removing front cover.

Remove the screw and take the front cover.

CLEANING AND OILING

To keep the machine operating smoothly, keep it clean and lubricated at all times.
FIRST UNPLUG THE MACHINE FROM THE OUTLET.

1. Open the front cover and work table. Using a brush

supplied, remove dust and accumulated dirt.
2. Apply a few drops of oil on the arrows indicated in the image
3. Remove each cover with the screwdriver and remove the dust and dirt with
the brush.
Problem probable cause Solution
Irregular stitches Readjust the thread tension
Choose the correct needle
Incorrect thread tension Incorrect Rethread
needle size Incorrect threading Do not drag the fabric, guide it gently
Fabric feed Pedal loose Reset the pedal
Needle break Do not drag the fabric, guide it gently
Fabric drag Choose the correct needle
Incorrect needle size Incorrect needle Reset the needle
setting Loose pedal Reset the pedal
Wrinkles Incorrect thread tension Bent needle Readjust the thread tension Insert a new
Incorrect differential feed needle Set it to less than 1.

Undulation Incorrect differential feed Set to 1 or more than 1, for fabrics.

Skipping stitches Incorrect threading

Incorrect needle size Rethread
bent needle Choose the correct needle Insert a new
Incorrect needle setting needle Reset the needle
Thread break Incorrect threading Rethread
bent needle Insert a new needle
Very tight thread tension Readjust the thread tension
Incorrect needle setting Thread spool Reset the needle
jammed Readjust the spool correctly
Thread guide pole not extended Fully extend the guide pole
4. PROBLEM REVIEW