HISTORY OF THE POLLERA

Our skirt is among the typical dresses in the world, one of the
most brilliant and select.
The skirt has its origins in Spain, it was the dress of the Spanish
woman of the 16th or 17th century who came with her
companion in the conquest of the new world.

It was the everyday dress, usually white with 2 or 3 skirts with

overlays or floral embroidery.
 It is the Spanish heritage of the conquest,
especially from Seville and Andalusia, which is why we say that
in its entirety, as it is used today, it is a mixture of the dress
worn by Spanish women throughout the entire Iberian
Peninsula, that is, the pollera montuna. or from newspapers we
are told that it was used in mild climates and summer seasons in
harsh climates such as in Andalusia, but they have no
resemblance to those used by flamenco dancers. The costume of
the Cordoba woman is not different from the Panamanian
costume, according to the model existing in the Pueblo Español
museum. We can conclude by saying that our national costume
is the mixture of Spanish dress from different regions of Spain,
which was adapted to the climate and geographical position of
the Isthmus of Panama and which has been evolving from the
time of colonization to the present day.

The word skirt is defined by the dictionary as a dress from the

waist down with many folds and flights. The clothing of the
Spanish woman consisted of the pollera, which was the skirt, the
petticoat, underskirt, and the basquiña. but in the Isthmus of
Panama the shirt and skirt set is called pollera.
Clothing called polleras by region [ edit ]
There is a variety of skirts, with peculiar characteristics of each region of Panama , among which the
following stand out by province :

Los Santos Province

Los Santos is a Panamanian province , located south of the Azuero Peninsula. The city of Las
Tablas is its capital and most populated town. It is made up of the districts of Los Santos , Guararé ,
Las Tablas , Macaracas , Pedasí , Pocrí and Tonosí . one of the important characters of Los Santos
is Rufina Alfaro
The modern province of Los Santos was established in January 1945 , replacing what was
previously called the Province of Azuero, according to Cabinet Decree No. 13, leaving its territorial
regime regulated by the second chapter of Law 58 of 29 July 1998. [ citation needed ]

Gala skirt without work [ edit ]

Gala skirt without work

White skirts are used par excellence for religious weddings, quinceañeras and renewal of vows.
They are similar to those that have workmanship, with the difference that in their preparation several
kinds of white fabrics are used, very fine and designs embroidered with threads also in white. They
are commonly tied with ribbons, although currently, wool and speck are used. There are some
variations with lace and torchón, mundillo and crochet (woven) braids. With this type of skirt it is
mandatory to use combs with pearls and between the chains (no more than seven) and the rosary
and scapular must appear.
The Santeña bride traditionally carries a bouquet of white flowers ( jasmines , orange blossoms ,
tulips , white roses , white carnations , or the traditional orange or lemon flower. As for their
tembleques, these must be made of pearls or fish scales. It is usually accompanied with 12 pairs of
basic pieces:

 Tapamoños or ball caps , are generally branch-shaped, which cover the bun.
 Ear covers or windshields , placed over the ears, to protect them from the breeze.
 The pendejas are placed on top of the tapa balls.
 The zoquetas resemble small flowers to fill.
 Pencas are larger flowers placed on the side of the head.
 Muskets and palms are placed near the combs and in visible areas.
 Butterflies , turkeys , scorpions and others that are used to symbolize fauna. 2
The shoes used with this skirt are lined in silk or satin in the color of the grating and the pennant. A
gold buckle must also be placed at the tip of the shoe decorated with Valencian lace. 3
Embroidered fabric skirt
Embroidered fabric skirt
To make this type of skirt, the fabric generally came embroidered at the factory, usually from Holland
and England . Lawn fabric is used, which is embroidered with flowers, dots, specks, among others.
Currently it is no longer available, in some regions its use is limited due to the lack of fabric with
these embroideries , which has motivated it to be made with artisanal embroidery.
In Los Santos, its use is very widespread. Its accessories are the same as those of the gala skirt,
with the exception that it is allowed to use white tembleques or pimpollos to taste. 4
Corduroy , velvet , satin or satin shoes are used. As for the latter, they have a gold buckle decorated
with ribbon (same color as the shoe) and lace (white). The shoes can be any color, as long as they
match the ribbon on the skirt, the wool and the pompoms on the blouse . 5

Montuna skirt

mountain skirt
It is considered one of the most valued and appreciated skirts by the towns of the Las Tablas region
and its surroundings, precisely because of its striking colors and the delicacy of the work done on its
shirt, which always matches the color of the skirt. of chintz. 6 This type of skirt was mainly used in
rural events such as piladeras, mud meetings, and massacres , among the most common.
The shirt is made with white fabric, with work on the sleeves , using woven wool ties, finished at the
front and back, braid at the mouth, in its only washer and the strip or braid of the tapabalazo is the
same as the braid at the mouth, but thinner. It has a piacillo, which divides the washer from the
melimbre. While the skirt is made up of three parts called: body, susto and picarona. Made with
chintz fabric that matches the design of the blouse and pennants of the same color as the wool and
shoes. The petticoat is simple with braids and torchon lace.
This type of skirt is complemented with other accessories: two front braids, four to six pairs of buds,
one or two pairs of gold combs, earrings with earrings, studs or hoops, bonnet, flat chain, guachapalí
and a cord (tail). duck, sea shank or half an orange). Another accessory is the shawl, which must be
made with the same design as the shirt, with mundillo, lace and fringes.
There is a type of variation, especially to wear in the vials and fields, with a straw hat in the middle
and a natural flower in the ear (right, when you are single). It can also be used with a reed and guate
seed hat. 7
Some of the jewelry that the Panamanian skirt wears are such as the choker, bonnet, balcony comb,
peineton, zorcillas, chains, flats, etc.

Gala skirt with darned work [ edit ]

Gala skirt with darned work

The gala skirt with darned work is the embroidered one. The embroidery highlights the outline and
other design elements such as butterflies and birds . Darning is a type of embroidery in which the
design is completely filled in with colored thread. It is fashionable to complete shaded and darned
skirts with openwork, for which the fabric on which needle work is done is partially unraveled. The
structure and dressing of the Santeña gala skirts are the same for all tasks.
Among the decorations that are used to decorate the head of the empollerada, we have: three sets
of combs, a comb, two pansies, a straw and golden jasmines. Between ten and fourteen pairs of
tembleques, the amount depends on the size of the head of the person who is going to wear the
skirt. Her jewelry box traditionally includes a minimum of seven chains, earrings, bracelets and rings.
A shawl decorated with the same work as the skirt. The shoes are satin with gold buckles. The
petticoat, crocheted , a scarf with crochet edges, which is hung to the waistband of the skirt, next to
the gold buttons. The shirt has two washers finished with Valencian lace, which is tied with wool,
accompanied by an acorn (mota), one at the front and one at the back. It is decorated with braids
and piacillo de mundillo.
The skirt divided into body and scare, with braids and piacillos of mundillo. Valencian lace at the end
of the skirt. She wears two petticoats, one simpler than the other. A front pennant and a back
pennant in the center, gold buttons, a completely crocheted purse and the handkerchief are placed
on the waistband of the skirt. 8

Gala skirt with shaded work [ edit ]

Gala skirt with shaded work
It is considered that this type of skirt was the last to be incorporated into the Santeño wardrobe.
There are two kinds of this type of skirt:

 Talc in the sun , which has colored or white fabric on the skirt cloth. The skirt with talcum-shaded
work in the calico sun, these skirts are rare because the fabric is scarce. Their braids and
mundillo lace are gorgeous. This type of skirt has more than 400 cuts, in a different way, the
work is spaced correctly, they are not crowded or in disorder. In order for the work to be
appreciated, this type of skirt does not have pleats.
 Talco in shadow , white fabric on transparent voile, with openwork and embroidery, sewn
underneath (on the back) of the skirt cloth. They are usually accompanied with openwork and
only floral designs are allowed. The skirt is usually accompanied with work shaded in talcum
powder in the sun, white in color, by a fan, whose use occurs more in the capital than in the
interior. The garments (they are the ones used by all the luxury skirts), shoes, the petticoats
completely woven with a hook in bow tie fabric designs or in shadow talcum powder and finally
their shawl also made with designs that the skirt wears. 9
Marked work skirt

Marked work skirt.

Originally, in these skirts, the marked or cross-stitch work was done with threads taken from other
garments, which were used in their manufacture after being dyed. Their designs are geometric,
narrow, with flower work between vines and some hummingbirds or butterflies. Fruit designs were
never marked on these skirts. Its design is the same as all Santeña gala skirts. The quality in the
production of this type of skirt is that in its finish there are no knots, much less loose threads, and the
ties must be correct. The fabric used in some of these classes is the marquiset, which serves as a
guide for the person who makes the skirt, when making the perforations. The cock bands should be
between ten and twelve inches long on these skirts. Before, wool flecks were not used, instead gold
cufflinks were used to close the opening of the shirt.
There is a variant of these skirts, which has lost its popularity, the boxed skirt, which carries the main
work between two narrow running works, called guards. 10

Penaconfusa skirt
The penaconfusa skirt was used to mourn, its designs or prints were made in black, gray and
sometimes in purple tones. They have this name because the fabric in which they were made was
called a confusing penalty . They were also made of nansu cloth ( cotton cloth). You can add braids
and braids made of mundillo or torchón and Valencian lace. This skirt was usually accompanied by a
black or white mantle or shawl, with which the widow wearing the skirt covered her head, as a sign
of mourning or regret. When the cloak was white, it was embroidered, had mundillo braid, macramé
(cross-woven of thick threads) and fringes. Among the accessories that were placed on this skirt we
have: simple earrings and a rosary or scapular chain. It is optional to use a pair of gold combs. You
can wear a bone mask. Black corduroy shoes. The design of the shirt is made up of two washers
finished with Valencian lace. It can be woven with black and white wool, finished with a bow towards
the front. While the skirt has a body and skirt made of the same fabric as the shirt, divided by a
braid. They can also wear black pennants and a simple petticoat. 11

Pollera work [ edit ]

The combination of a work shirt and its skirt , a short skirt or chintz skirt with little flare , is known as
a basquiña. The shirt is made with soft fabrics, such as opal, lawn and flax, which help tolerate the
heat . Although the use of white fabrics has become widespread, it is also done with other fabrics.
The male costume is the same one that accompanies the montuna santeña.
The basquiña is fitted to the body without division at the waist , with a high collar, one or no washer
and short, long or three-quarter sleeves. Although it is seen more with white fabric, they are also
made with printed fabrics. The jacket is made of white or chintz fabric, it is less tight to the body and
has short or three-quarter sleeves . The fine jacket is made of holán yarn with braid and straw lace
and tucks. If it is a camisole, it is made wide, with a round neck and short sleeves.
The skirt is a chintz skirt with two sections (body and hem or picarona). It doesn't scare him. It can
be decorated with braids of mundillo or torchón superimposed between sections. A simple petticoat
is worn.
Among the accessories that usually accompany this type of skirt, we can say that the lady places
two simple gold or "celluloid" plastic combs to hold the bun (hairstyle) or two braids can be made
placed forward. It can be used with a work hat (junco or guate seed), for traveling or protecting
yourself from the sun and the night . Natural flowers are worn on the head next to the right ear if it is
a young lady, on the left for ladies. It can wear a chain like the guachapalí, which has an ear cleaner
and a nail cleaner. Simple earrings, like hoops or tangos. Black corduroy shoes. A curious fact about
this type of skirt is that originally Lima cloths were used, which were striped fabric shawls finished
with fringes. 12

Gala skirt with darned work [ edit ]

In Los Santos, gala skirts are made with three tasks : marked, shaded and darned (embroidered).
The embroidery highlights the outline and other design elements such as butterflies and birds ;
Darning is a type of embroidery in which the design is completely filled in with colored thread. It is
fashionable to complement shaded and darned skirts with openwork, for which the fabric on which
needle work is done is partially unraveled. The structure and dressing of the Santeña gala skirts are
the same for all tasks.
In Santeña skirts the lace should not drag on the floor, to be able to appreciate the shoes; The
sleeves should not protrude or cover most of the arm; and the first washer should not cover the work
of the second. The work of the first must also be narrower than the second.
The shirt has two washers finished with Valencian lace, it is tied with wool , accompanied by an
acorn (mote) at the front and another at the back. It is decorated with braids and piacillos de
mundillo . Meanwhile, the skirt is divided into body and fright, with braids and piacillos of mundillo.
Valencian lace at the end of the skirt. She wears two petticoats , one simpler than the other. On the
waistband of the skirt, a front pennant and a back pennant are placed in the center, gold buttons, a
purse which is woven, and a handkerchief.
There are also skirts that are completely darned, without openwork. Darning is done with threads of
various colors to achieve the nuanced effect. This type of work is similar to the fill embroidery of
yesteryear.
The ladies' hairstyle is two braids that are tied behind the ear, forming a ball. The decorations that
are usually placed to decorate the head are three sets of combs, a comb, two pansies, a straw and
golden jasmines . Between ten and fourteen pairs of tembleques; The quantity depends on the size
of the head of the brood. Your jewelry box traditionally includes a minimum of seven chains ,
earrings, bracelets , and rings . She wears a shawl decorated with the same work as the skirt. The
shoes are satin with gold buckles.
The costume worn by the gentlemen is a luxury shirt with a large number of small tucks sewn to
taste, a Chinese collar and two pockets. The pants are black, a painted hat , a tricolor or white and
black hat, and finally, black shoes or mules . 13

Panama Province
Panama is one of the ten provinces of Panama. Its culture is the result of the fusion of various
cultures that have settled in the country during its history: Spanish, Americans, Africans, Afro-
Antilleans. This combination is observed in their music, gastronomy and art. In traditional clothing,
the mola stands out, an applique process that is the opposite of fabric and is made by the
indigenous Guna ethnic group. The Panamanian skirt also stands out, which is a product of Spanish
heritage and considered a folkloric costume of Panama. The Spanish influence is present in the
architecture of colonial cities, especially the Casco Viejo of Panama and in the central provinces of
the country. [ citation needed ] In this province, the skirts of the districts of La Chorrera and Panamá Este
(Chepo) stand out.

Panama East
Panama Este is the sector that includes the towns that are located thirty minutes from the capital
city. 14

La Chorrera
La Chorrera , is a district of the province of Panamá Oeste, in the Republic of Panama . The reason
for the name could be because of the number of waterfalls that this region has, which is why the
Spanish colonizers decided to call it La Chorrera . Among the main jets are: the La Chorrera Jet, the
Trinidad Jet, the Caño Quebrada Jet, among others. On September 12, 1855 , when La Chorrera
emerged as a district, the fight and actions began. Thus, in 1922 , the civic group called the
Chorrerano Center for Men and Women was formed, with the purpose of carrying out all the work
and activities necessary to combat the prevailing backwardness and promote the progress of the
Chorrera community . [ citation needed ]
La Chorrera's costumes are influenced by various regions of the country, as it is a place of passage.
We found two versions of montunas: one made of zaraza and another with simple work. They also
wore chambas, as work clothes and to dance the cumbia . Traditionally, this cumbia is danced with
lit candles , which were used when there was no electric light. Among the decorations with which
these skirts can be accompanied, a hat that is available, such as guate, reed or painted nugget,
which can be decorated with or without ribbon . You can place side combs, buds or natural flowers,
preferably papos, or a bridal bouquet. A chain, usually the so-called flat chain, and simple earrings.
Rigorous bone covering, adorned with a cross or medal. Corduroy shoes, which they call slippers .
Nowadays, they also wear colored shoes. Hair loose, in a bun or one or two braids . The sleeve can
be with a single washer. Stringing of ribbon or wool, traditionally finished with a bow. Today a speck
or acorn is also used. The simple shirts use torchón (cotton) lace while the more elaborate ones
have workmanship and talcum powder in the sun, marked or embroidered.
The chambra is a loose shirt made of poplin , nansú or other white fabric, decorated with some
torchon braids and tucks. Short skirt . There is a variation, the marked work shirt finished with
honeycomb. Mouth braid tied with ribbon and finished with a bow. It is optional to wear a simple gold
necklace , or several or plastic beads . Bone cap, hat or flowers to go to the party. While the skirt,
skirt or short skirt is made of fabric with flowers, with three sections divided by torchon braids. It is
also finished with torchon lace . A simple petticoat. For men, the costume can be for work or gala.
The first, wear a guarandó shirt or a coton without spikes made of dirty blanket fabric or made from
flour sacks, jeans , khaki or gray pants. Conjoined hat and cuties, which previously used rubber from
tires on the soles. The formal wears a guayabera-type shirt in pastel tones, generally with four
pockets, or a long-sleeved white shirt inside. Black pants and tie-up shoes, and the traditional reed
or painted hat could not be missing. 15

Chepo [ edit ]
Folklore performances are part of the culture of this district, such as: typical ensembles, congo and
bullarengue dances. Where young people from different schools participate. The skirts that stand out
in this region are the tumba hombre, the montuna tumba hombre and the gala. [ citation needed ]
Men's grave skirt [ edit ]
This type of skirt is seen a lot in the capital city, due to its low cost. Further east, the montuna was
the work skirt of the Chepo region. In addition to being used to work at home, it was used to go to
the river and at community festivals, such as the famous drums. La montuna de Chepo in the
making of its shirt uses white fabric with simple work on the sleeves, washers and on the top. Wired
with wool , finished with an acorn or speck , front and back. It has braids and lace. The shirt should
not stretch over the bust , but rather have a slight fall. A scarf is sewn under the sleeve, which allows
you to stretch your arm. The skirt made with chintz fabric of two to three sections, with or without
picarone. Among the decorations that accompany this type of skirt we have: Natural red flower
behind the ear where the bow is born. Painted hat that can be decorated with ribbon of the color of
the grating and a front acorn. Flat chain, rosary , witch and guachapalí. Brooches , preferably with
red stones ( rubies ) or green stones ( emeralds ), which must be blessed first by a priest and then
by the village healer or witch for better protection. Tendrils and bonnet with a medal of the virgin or a
saint. Corduroy shoes the color of the grating. The hairstyle with two front braids or one side braid on
the right side, finished with ribbons of the color of the grating.
Montuna grave man
The shirt is made with holán fabric with embroidered thread, two washers and with sleeves. Braids
and torchon lace. Stringed with wool and finished with a front and back speck or fleece that matches
the color of the skirt. The skirt is made with striped percale fabric in the color that the owner prefers.
Two sections with vertical stripes and a naughty one with horizontal stripes with a simple petticoat.
The accessories used with this skirt, traditionally the painted hat is used, although today it is seen
with a Panama hat . natural flowers or buds on the ears. Tapahueso and one to two chains (chata
and guachapalí). Simple earrings. Black corduroy shoes. The hairstyle, two braids tied with wool of
the same color as the grating.
There are two variations:

 the first century-old variation with filled darning work. Crochet braids and lace, front braids,
stuffed papos flowers and a painted hat.
 the second variation with marked work. Braids and lace from the world. Side bun and hat
painted with acorn and ribbon.
On the other hand, the male clothing consists of a shirt and pants (to the knee ) made of dirty
blanket fabric decorated with spikes and marked work filled in front and back. They are finished with
fringes woven in wick thread and skein thread, with designs that reflect the daily activity of the
Chepana: bullfights , the rice piler, flora and fauna of the countryside, among others. The man can
be barefoot or with leather shoes, a reed or painted hat, with a tricolor color (red, blue and white)
and a hat.
Gala skirt
This skirt was worn by wealthy ladies , wives of the Chepo landowners. It was used to go to social
and cultural events, attend funerals and visit the sick. For the shirt, white fabric is used, similar in cut
to the basquiña , which they call the matiné because the Chepana women preferred their parties
during the day. It is fitted at the waist, decorated with tucks and vertical cotton braids. At the rear, a
sailor- type washer. Its sleeves reach the middle of the forearm , finished with a linen scarf that
ladies used to wipe off sweat . The skirt has two sections with tuck decorations and a small skirt.
Traditionally, two petticoats: a simple one with lace and a luxurious one with braids, lace and work
with openwork and powder in shadow . Her accessories: a braid combed on the right side, trying not
to bother the couple who always accompanies her on the left side. A side bun is also allowed.
She wears a natural red papo or carnation flower behind her ear. Flat chain, earrings and bonnet
with a medal of the virgin or some saint. black corduroy shoes. There is a variation with speckled
lawn fabric, which in Chepo they call coquito . It is used when you do not have the capital to buy a
thread skirt. Hair with side braid. As for the man's dress, he wears a linen shirt that they call the
millionaire . It is used completely white or with light blue work. It has pen, chain and herringbone
stitches. Gold cufflinks, smooth or coins. Black pants and shoes, a chain and a hat painted or
painted to the person's taste, and a feeder. 16

Colón Province
The province of Colón is characterized by the coexistence of two cultural aspects of African descent:
the Afro-Antillean, which emerged with the arrival of North Americans to the country when the
construction of the Panama Canal began. They brought with them large numbers of West Indian
blacks, mainly from Jamaica , Barbados , Trinidad and Tobago and the Lesser Antilles , to do the
heavy work on these constructions. These immigrants brought their English-speaking Antillean
culture and it is manifested to this day in gastronomy , religion and music . It should be noted that
because the Afro-Antilleans coming from the Caribbean to Panama were mostly Jamaicans, a
cultural legacy has remained which is Rastafarism , a religious faith that is still very much in force in
many sectors within the population of the city of Colon. [ citation needed ]

Congo skirt
The congo skirt is made with various fabrics and it is common to mix discordant colors. Certain
elements vary according to rank, the queen is the only one who wears a crown , veil (she kept her
identity secret for protection), scepter and complete white clothing (after completing certain rituals)
and her band that represents war for peace. and freedom .
The pylon -type shirt, made with varied fabrics, short sleeves with one or two washers and
discordant buttons at the back, front or side. Ranking women also wore white round-neck shirts with
long sleeves and front buttons . They have fabric or lace washers that finish the edge of the shirt,
sleeves and yoke. The skirt is a skirt with fabric gathered in one, two or three sections, with or
without a picara ( picarona ). Those with one or two sections were for working, the one with three, for
dancing because of its great flight. There are several styles: attached patch, mounted patch and
tucked in (three different lengths of fabric).
There is variation in women's clothing, you can use the patch skirt mounted with a pylon-type shirt
with two washers. The crown represents Congo freedom and organization, whose leader is always a
woman who watches over the community and has the last word. Her underwear is a camisole and
panties (a type of panty that can reach the knee with or without patches and patches). It is optional
to wear a simple petticoat or one with lace. Among her decorations, more than seven necklaces,
most made with natural materials (wood, seeds, shells , leather and coconut shells). The flowers
cover from the temple to behind the ear; It is mandatory to add the cañito lendro that is collected in
the summers for the congo season. Bracelets, various rings and sometimes tortoiseshell combs with
or without gold. The queen wears a crown adorned with ribbons and beads, a semi-precious stone
hangs from its center. He also uses a carved wooden scepter, ending in a cross. She goes barefoot.
The gentlemen's wardrobe, called ironed clothing, rucoprancha or prancha . The most traditional
consists of a skirt with strips of fabric and flecks that recall the skins originally used in Africa. The
fabrics could be from umbrellas abandoned by high-class ladies. Ropes over the chest with different
types of mooring according to the situation. The most common hat is the conical or cafúcula hat
made of natural fabric and without ties, it is used for brewing coffee and fishing. Face painted usually
with indigo or charcoal . Barefoot. 17

Portobelo [ edit ]
Portobelo is a natural port and town located in the Republic of Panama. One of the most important
towns in America during the colonial era and a port through which most of the wealth that Spain
shipped to Europe from the conquest of present-day South America passed. Portobelo is located on
the northern coast of the Isthmus of Panama , about 50 km northeast of Colón (city).
One of the traditions of Portobelo is the congo dance, which responds to a demonstration of slaves,
brought from Africa in colonial times. We know, from historical data, that the large slave factory was
located in Portobelo, a place where black people were bought for forced labor. These were valued
according to their body size and the whiteness of their teeth. The black man, despite the suffering
and pain he experienced due to his condition as a slave, never lost the meaning of life and the
pleasure of celebrating it. We have proof of this in the Congo dance that is preserved to this day. [
citation needed ]

Portobelo hookah skirt

It is used exclusively in this Colonense region. It was a Sunday dress and for invitational parties,
which were held in a family home or a communal one. They were organized by the black population
with purchasing power and social and academic status.
The shirt is made with white voilé, holán, letín, cotton or lawn fabric with colored or white specks,
which they call coquito . Shirt with or without work, with two washers or flights finished with lace.
Unstitched running wool grating, finished with an unchopped speck or acorn. The skirt made of white
fabric with or without work, with two sections and finished with lace, panties and two petticoats, front
roosters (colored ribbon) on the right side and back on the left, the length of the height of the braid of
the skirt. There are variations, for example, with white lace fabric, cotton lace and corduroy shoes.
Another variation, with talcum and openwork work, crocheted lace, mundillo braids and satin shoes.
The dressings with which this type of skirt is accompanied; one or two pairs of balcony combs
crossed back, closing the space of the hair parting. Flowers that also close the head until the split. It
is optional to add a caracucha flower made of fabric, which is placed at the top front towards the line
of the combs. Earrings (earrings, tangos, etc.) Bone cap with coin pendant, cross, musket, medal.
From one to five chains: scapular , guachapalí, rosary, some cord and the flat one, which is de
rigueur. If they have them, they use hand or wedding rings, muskets, weekly bracelets and bracelets
. Simple corduroy or colored satin shoes , traditionally worn with the colors of the Spanish flag : red
and yellow. The hairstyle: loofah turtles , which are two braids closed at the height of the ear, which
start tight, loosen in the center to bulge and then tighten at the end.
Two cokes or balls are also allowed for women who do not have hair suitable for buns. While, the
male wardrobe includes a long-sleeved white shirt with a woven tie or kitten- type bow. White, black
or blue jacket and pants. Strap, which could go with a gold buckle . Tights matching the jacket and
black shoes. He also wears a Panama hat surrounded by a black ribbon.
It should be noted that the hookah blow is similar to the cumbia conga, but with a slower cadence.
The hookah does not use a cane , because it is not danced with. Nor is dancing with a pipe , as
courtesy prevents smoke from being blown over the couple . 18

Darien Province
The Darien population is made up mostly of indigenous people , Afro- descendants and settlers who
migrated from other provinces (mainly Chiricanos, Santeños, Herreranos and Veragüenses) in
search of good lands and better opportunities.
The musical manifestation that distinguishes the Darienite people is the Bullarengue, but it is
pronounced Bullerengue , which is a drum dance of purely African descent. It is danced only in
Darién . The man and the lady do a particular step, where they move using only their toes and the
rhythm of their hips . Each of the human groups that have emigrated to this province fight to
preserve their roots and maintain their customs and traditions , despite the strong pressure exerted
by Colombian migrants and the radio media of that country, tend to favor the Darienite's taste for the
folklore of the border with Colombia , especially for vallenato . [ citation needed ]

Darienite skirt
Although structurally the Darienita skirt is always the same, certain details depend on the social
status of its owner. For example, details that denote status are the quality of its lace and the use of
gold jewelry. Two types of shirts are used, both in white fabric. A simple or fun one with a pleated
washer, without sleeves. Another more complex one with one or two washers with short sleeves,
finished with lace and fitted at the waist . They can be made with buttons on the front or with buttons
on the back bodice for a better fit. When it has back buttons , you can add a speck or acorn in front
and another in the back (to the lady's taste). The skirt or skirt made of chintz fabric with large flowers
reminiscent of the jungle, with three sections divided by lines of lace, the wider the lace, the greater
the social rank. Colored lace is allowed. The skirt is finished with the same lace that divides the
sections. A simple unpleated petticoat, usually finished with lace. The skirts of these skirts are
pleated to give grace to the flare of the skirt. In the past, to pleat them, ladies used iron plates that
they heated on the stove . The hairstyle is according to the type of hair you have, with a simple bun ,
braids, bun or other.
In the past, necklaces with seeds were used as dressing, today they use plastic balls . The same
necklace can be wrapped around the wrist to improvise a bracelet . A flower in the ear, like simple
papos, stuffed ones and others; The ladies place it on the left side and the ladies on the right side.
Wealthy ladies added earrings, a pair of gold combs and a plated chain. A handkerchief is allowed to
wipe away sweat. Little or no makeup. They go barefoot. There is a variation of this skirt, the so-
called church skirt with a complex shirt and skirt made of white fabric with inserts of colored fabrics
in the center and at its end. It was used by the ladies of society for religious rituals . It includes a
rosary and a transparent black or white shawl.
The man wears a day laborer -style shirt tied at the waist called a chompa made of dirty blanket-
type fabric. Three-quarter sleeves, either gathered or sewn this way. Thick fabric pants (khaki or
jeans) rolled up. Barefoot. 19

Chiriquí Province
The Chiricano enjoys the folkloric traditions it has, such as the parades of San José, La Candelaria
and San Juan, the bullfights and local festivals such as the Almojabano con Queso, Mono en Bijao,
the Paseo de la Basquiña Chiricana and the Parada from the flowers.

Basquiña Chiricana or Pollera Chiricana [ edit ]

The costume of this region is made up only of basquiñas, which were used for dancing and in the
past for working at home. There are three variants:

 White Dacron with tucks, lace and white braids to be tied with colored ribbon; This variant uses
pearl buttons. NOTE: Do not use lace and synthetic braids.
 White Dacron, tucks and small lace on the edge of the sleeve washer and bottom edge of the
hem. NOTE: IT DOES NOT have braids; This variant uses dress buttons for its simplest variant
and for its luxury or more work variant you can use pearl buttons.
 This basquiña model is made with the same chintz-type fabric that the pollerón is made of; This
basquiña only has tucks; Use dress buttons according to the color of the fabric. NOTE: This
model DOES NOT use lace or braids, much less does it use lace.

Variants of Chirican basquiñas

Among its accessories it can be said that only a single chain is used (example: chata, rosario or
guachapalí). Earrings with small earrings , whether or not you like to use bone caps, a cameo
according to your region and a small flower in the corner of the ear to accompany the lady's face.
For parties, gold combs could be used. Black corduroy shoes. In the past they used shawls, which
they called scarves , to cover their heads in religious acts. In the past, ladies used coconut oil and
even cooking oil to keep their hair well combed.
As for the ladies' hairstyle, it will depend on the length of the lady's hair since false hair should not be
used. We can mention the bun or as it is known in this region "tun tun", two braids or just one on
the right side , traditionally tied with a piece of cloth (today we use ribbon that harmonizes with the
costume) and the trench where they are tied. two braids crossed on her head and she has no
combs. In the case of having short hair, the lady should only place a flower in the corner of the ear.
MORE INFORMATION AT: Paseo de la Basquiña Chiricana

Veraguas Province
Gala skirt without work [ edit ]
This skirt is made with smooth pastel-colored or printed fabrics. Originally the type of fabric gave
category to the skirt; the most expensive were made with silk and satins. Nowadays it is popular to
use voilé in its preparation, since it is very difficult to find organza , percale and other fabrics. The
shirt has two washers finished with Valencian lace. Mouth wired horizontally and in a zigzag shape,
with two-story wool that matches the rooster ribbons. The recently made Veraguense skirt has tucks
on the shirt and on the skirt, adding to the person's taste. They are seen especially in skirts for girls,
as they allow them to be loosened so that the wardrobe can serve them longer. As for the skirt, it
has three sections (called tucos or blows in the region), made of the same fabric as the shirt. It has
braids and torchón or Valencian lace, depending on the purchasing power of the owner. Long
roosters (colored ribbon) are placed, rear to the right of the same colors of the grating. Wear two
petticoats .
There is in this region the centenary skirt, about 110 years old, made of pink Chinese silk, with a
subtle weave and bobbin stitches, in the Colorada de Veraguas. This skirt has two sections and a
shawl , demonstrating the influence of Los Santos in this region. Among the dressings used are
some chains , such as guachapalí, witch, chata and rosario . Also, tendrils and a tapahueco
(tapahueso). Four pairs of combs, a comb and a pair of heart-stealing combs. To hold them, a ribbon
is woven between the teeth of the heartbreakers and the comb, which is tied at the height of the
hairline. The ribbon is one of the colors of the grating. The heart-stealing combs, which have been
used for more than 120 years, are originally from La Atalaya and are for exclusive use in the regions
of Ocú and central Veraguas . One or two pairs of buds on the ears. The hairstyle is two back braids.
The lady dances barefoot. While the male costume (centennial) uses a coton adorned with a
handkerchief that could be worn around the neck or in the pocket . Black pants, cotton nugget hat
and leather jackets. The current costume, a Veraguense camisilla, has front and back vertical tucks
in pyramidal talc (zig zag). Black pants, bait, hat and leather jackets. 20

Montuna skirt
This montuna is located in the central region of this province and was the common dress of the
Veraguense peasant woman. At the beginning of 1991, its rescue began, as it had ceased to be
used in much of the region. The shirt has two washers finished with lace, decorated with tucks. It
uses white voilé fabric, although it has been seen in pastel tones according to the color of the skirt of
the pollerón. Painted or printed coquito was also used in the past. It is woven with wool of two colors
in a run, zigzag or both. The skirt has three sections or tucos in chintz fabric at ankle height. Long
roosters (colored ribbon) on the back right, whose number and color depends on the amount and
color of the wool in the shirt's grating. The 110-year-old centenary version, with a chintz skirt with
different prints than those currently used. It was worn short so as not to dirty the hem.
The shirt includes a braid of lace in its washers, which precedes the Valencian lace with which it is
finished. The decorations used with this skirt are tapahueco, two to three chains: the most common
are the guachapalí, chata and rosario. Earrings, especially studs and earrings. Reed hat,
accompanied by a couple of buds or natural flowers. The ladies go barefoot. A curious fact: it is
traditional for singers in this region to wear a red scarf tied around their throat to protect themselves
from night dew and the evil eye. The hairstyle has two rear braids traditionally tied with the wool of
the purse, although currently it is also seen with ribbon. Meanwhile, the clothing worn by the male,
the ponytail and chinos or jeans, leather jackets and a reed hat. Montuno with fringes. Big pants,
with a reed hat, cutlasses, tajona and machete. 13

Herrera Province
The particular historical and geographical conditions of the Azuerense space, as well as the complex
population flows, have led to the formation of the Azuerense culture. Different peoples and
civilizations have passed through Azuero that over time have formed a particular cultural identity.
These towns, some very different from each other, have slowly left a mark on the inhabitants.
Spanish colonization for just over five hundred years, Tijeras is still alive, mixed with some traditions
of the Cubita Indians. Herrera, a Panamanian province , together with the province of Los Santos
(Azuero), has the merit of having exported its culture to the rest of the country to provide the country
with cultural unity and a feeling of belonging in the first decades of its existence. Rich in folklore, with
a marked colonial style in the layout of its cities and in the philosophy of its inhabitants. [ citation needed ]
Ocú
It belongs to one of the districts of the province of Herrera. One of the most folkloric events of the
Ocueño people, where the native customs carried out by the peasants of the last century are
represented, is the National Manito Festival , which is celebrated in mid-August. Another of its
festivals is the San Sebastián fair , as well as its carnival , which is characterized by being the only
one in the country that, in addition to having Calle Arriba and Calle Abajo, has a third street, Calle
Centro.
Gala skirt without work [ edit ]
These types of skirts are used at parties and always at weddings. In the past they were seen in
pastel tones, such as pink, light blue and cream; Currently, they are white. The skirts are not pleated
and do not use tucks; If the skirt fit on the owner, she had to make a new one.
The shirt has two washers finished with cotton or Valencian lace. Running or zigzag grating, with
wool in pastel tones, tied with bows. The skirt or skirt with two sections with a front and rear pennant,
the same color as the wool of the grating. Braids and cotton or Valencian lace. The waistband closes
with two strips of the same fabric as the skirt; may have carved gold buttons. Petticoat made of
platter, yarn or other white fabric. Among their accessories we have: earrings with tendrils, stud
earrings, piloncitos, among others. Bone cap with cross, shield, heart or locket pendant. Chata,
guachapalí and witch chains (closed with a clasp); The rosary is obligatory in weddings. It is optional
to use a hand ring . Handkerchief in the waistband. Chacarita for personal items or tips (gifts) at
weddings. Zatin or corduroy shoes, without heels, matching headbands and pennants. It can be
accompanied by a matching Lima cloth or shawl, marked with herringbone work, crossed on the
back or over the neck. Before they were used to cover themselves from the sun and go to church.
Ocú was the first region to use the comb. It should be noted that Veraguas and Ocú are from the
same folklore region, which explains the similarities in their dressings, such as the use of heart-
stealing combs.
In Veraguas, these are intertwined with the ribbon of the comb. In Ocú, the ribbon is tied on the
forehead ; in Veraguas, at the hairline. The traditional hamana is used to celebrate marriages , as an
important part of the peasant marriage. The bride is adorned with wool, ribbons and white buds. The
hairstyle is with two braids at the back, tied with wool the color of the shirt's grating. A pair of heart-
stealing combs, six to eight simple combs (without shine) and one comb, intertwined with ribbon,
which ends at the forehead with a bow. Five to six pairs of cocoons (small buds) in pastel tones.
Finally, the male wardrobe, which wears a shirt, black pants, black leather shoes or black shoes.
The shirt has tucks and geometric talcs, in high relief, gold front buttons , mother -of-pearl shell or
lined gourd, without buttons on the sleeves . Ocueño white hat , with the back and front brim up or
both down. 12
Montuna skirt
The montuna skirt is simple, it was worn by rural women to go to mass on Sundays or to patron saint
festivals. They also used a similar change of clothes for daily tasks: cooking, going to the ravine ,
taking food to the laborers, etc. For this last activity, the skirt was not biased and sometimes it was
shorter or gathered at the hips so as not to get it dirty. The shirt is white with plain fabric or a white
background with balls or flowers. Two washers with Valencian or torchon lace. It is tied with wool of
the color of the skirt and ends with two bows in the front and two in the back. The skirt, made with
chintz fabric with three sections or bodies divided by three lines of white strips or biases, which can
be single, double or triple. It can also be done without the straps. Among its decorations is the
Ocueño hat. The authentic Ocueño hat is called ñopito or blancoito because black straw was not
used, which was not available in this region. This was later added only to the edge of the wing. Near
the ear, the ladies wear natural flowers such as jasmine , cananga and caracucha, also replacing
them with two little tembleque buds. Necklace of colored beads, teardrop seeds of the Virgin and
beach shells like snails, finished with a pendant or a gold or silver coin, with the image of the Virgin.
Bone cap and earrings with earrings or studs. They wear two scarves: a small one attached to the
waistband, and a large one called a scarf around the shoulders. A colorful chacarita. They go
barefoot. As for her hairstyle, two long braids that fall back, which are finished with wool of the same
color as the grating. If you have short hair you can leave it down, but you should never wear fake
buns. While the men's clothing is characterized by the fact that the man wears a shirt and shorts or
chingo ocueño, painted or worked with cross stitch. The shirt, with an open collar and long, wide
sleeves, ends in fringes of the same fabric; Use covered pumpkin buttons. Ocueño hat, tajona and
chácara. Chuspa, made with iguana skin to protect the tobacco, the dislabón (link), the cotton wick,
the candle stone and the hookah from humidity. A saber or comb, which was accompanied in the
duel with a thick wool crossbow blanket to cover the arm and protect oneself from blows. There are
several types of saber: cross, totuma, fox's head, among others. The leather straps that must have
grippers on the fingers so as not to slip. 12

Coclé Province
Coclé is a land of natural and tourist contrasts. It has an extraordinary cultural and folkloric wealth. It
is a province in central Panama . Penonomé, is the capital and head of the province of Coclé and is
the only region in the country where the touch of the triangle is added to the drum (Panamanian
dance).

Gala skirt with Penonome work [ edit ]

Small tasks distinguish this skirt. Its purse is finished with a satin ribbon bow, about an inch and a
half wide. It is traditional in the region to embroider or enhance its braids and lace. The shirt is made
with two washers with voile fabric, the term comes from French, and means veil , thread holán or
marquiset with work, commonly embroidered or marked. Braids and enhanced lace. Wool netting
finished with a ribbon bow. The skirt is narrow, with little flare and two sections; It doesn't pleat. You
can wear tucks (tucks). Finish with a braid and enhanced Valencian lace. Side pennant front and
back. A petticoat . There is also the century-old skirt made of marquiset fabric marked with lint
threads , which they took from old garments and with vegetable dyes. The mouth of the purse is
different, as it had to be replaced due to damage. Likewise, the skirt marked with enhanced lace and
small work imitating carnations , with braids and Valencian lace, over 60 years old. Finally, the skirt
embroidered in cord with leaf themes and little buttons in marquiset fabric. Braids and unenhanced
lace, made in 1936 .
Among the dressings that are usually accompanied by this skirt we have: two side balcony combs.
Flowers (trembles) of worms and pearls imitating flora and fauna , which must tremble thanks to the
spring at their base. They should not cover the entire head. They are decorated with ribbons and
chamomiles (yellow wool specks). Front muskets, typical of the region. Natural flowers next to the
combs, such as coral jasmine and castile jasmine. Simple tendrils. Pins on shirt ties. Follow me
(tapahueso) with cross , little fish or medal . No more than three chains: they can be the flat,
guachaplí, rosary or a thick closed cord. Bracelets to taste, but weekly ones are preferred. Rings
also to taste, but those with ruby and aquamarine stones are preferred. Corduroy shoes the color of
the bow and pennant. As for the so-called cucumber hairstyle , with hair twisted and folded at the
level of the earlobe. People with little hair bulked the cucumbers with reused hair from the combs. A
curious fact is that in the Penonomé drum dance , it is customary to have a large mirror decorated
with veraneras, so that the empollerada can see herself while she makes her three beats.

Work skirt
These Penonomeña skirts were worn in pastel tones to be at home. When they went out on errands
and visits, ladies preferred to wear black and white tones. Older ladies used to wear a "listao", a
white cloth with dark dots. Those in pastel tones are found today with wider skirts, as they have been
adapted for dancing. Among the accessories with which this skirt is usually accompanied or
adorned, ladies can place two side combs made of gold , tortoiseshell or colored plastic . Currently it
is also used with tembleques, or with natural flowers such as veraneras and jasmines from Castile. A
simple gold necklace and/or necklace with colored beads. Cameos placed on the collar of the shirt
are also used. Black corduroy shoes. It was traditional to place a small mole painted on the face to
taste. The hairstyle can be a bun or side braid or two front braids, tied with ribbon at the end. There
are certain variations in this type of skirt: one of them is the "going out" version, used in the region by
older women until approximately 1950, in which they wore a white basquiña with a Chinese or round
neck and a skirt of dark fabric and a petticoat The other consisted of a shirt in pastel-colored fabric,
with a round neck, three-quarter sleeves with and without lace. The skirt is made of the same fabric
decorated with tucks, so that the skirt fits longer. Adorned with colorful bead necklaces. While for
men, all Penonomeño costumes ( gala , montuna or faena ) can use a white long-sleeved shirt or the
two variations that exist, such as the "cotton" fabric, "woven" or dirty blanket shirt, with Chinese
collar. "Chiefdom" cane with silver handle. They can also use the montuno shirt made of "woven"
fabric or dirty blanket with fringes , with branded pointed work usually alluding to the fauna of the
region. Buttons covered with fabric. They wear a "pinta" or pintao hat, in this region it is not
traditional to wear it "a la pedrá". They call their fabric "crizneja"; to its decorations, paint and "tarco"
(talc). 4
The Montunas skirts from Natá, Penonomé and Coclé del Norte, for the most part, have a relatively
simple structure and few decorations.

Penonomé montuna skirt

The shirt has a single grommet with chintz fabric, or one or two grommets with white fabric with or
without work. It is traditionally finished with a bobbin or a front and back ribbon bow, to which a brush
can be attached and it is not traditional for the bow to have the tips hanging down. The skirt with two
or three sections in chintz fabric. A front pennant on the left and another at the back on the right, an
anagua is used. Among the decorations that usually accompany this skirt, we can mention the pint
hat , preferably with a ribbon. It can be worn with bead necklaces or with a single gold chain , the flat
or guachapalí chain. Brooches on shirt ties. Follow me or hide bone. Hoop earrings, muskets or
earrings and corduroy shoes . The hairstyle can be with the hair down or braids forward. Borrowed
buns made of natural hair, tied with a black ribbon, are permitted. Young girls can wear wool bows.

Montuna skirt from Natá

In this skirt, the shirt has two washers finished with torchon lace. It is tied with wool and has a front
speck and a back speck. Meanwhile, the skirt is made of the same chintz fabric as the shirt with
three sections. The lady's hairstyle has two braids forward that are woven with ribbon the color of the
grating. Among her accessories we can mention that the lady puts on a reed hat , adorned with a
thick ribbon that matches the ribbon on the bows, the fleck on her shirt and her corduroy shoes.
Ladies accompany this skirt with a simple chain (chata or guachapalí chain) and simple earrings.
The gentlemen wear jeans , a ponytail, leather hats and a reed hat.

Gala skirt without work by Antón [ edit ]

They are made of white or colored speckled linen fabric, thread holan, voilé, bual, clarin (pastel-
colored fabric), and simple printed fabric. In Antón, the printed skirt was called "poor's skirt" but it has
always been a luxury skirt that was made of fabric with cocoons or flowers, or fabric printed with
small flowers, sometimes with a white background. The skirt has body and skirt, with little flare,
separated by lace. The shirts have Valencian, torchón, cotton and thread lace.
It has a front and rear pennant in the color of the grating. The hairstyle is side buns with colored
buds with white chicken or duck feathers, white pearl trembling, worm trembling, natural flowers as
in yesteryear. A hat with a ribbon was also worn. A pair of simple combs. Up to seven rigorous
chains are placed; the chata, guachapalí, rosary, scapular and the witch, seed necklaces such as
sapaya, coral, tears of the virgin. You can add bracelets and/or weekly rings. Bone cap and simple
tendrils. It is traditional to wear black corduroy shoes or shoes the color of the pennant are also
worn. In the past, all skirts could be worn with a hat with a ribbon and a bun at the back when there
were no flowers. Shoes should not be shiny. The male costume is the same as that worn with the
montuna. 12
Gala skirt with work by Antón [ edit ]
The marked work was the first to be used in Antón, followed by the talc work. The marked works
tend to be small, while the talcs are large, simple and never have openwork; also coquito work and
embroidered work but simple. It is traditional for the work to be small. You can wear Valencian,
cotton, thread and torchon lace. Antón's formal skirts are tied with wool and have one speck in front
and another in the back. The skirt consists of body and skirt, with little flare, separated by lace. The
lace can be highlighted with the color of the work. It has a front and rear pennant in the color of the
grating. Two petticoats, one simpler than the other. The lady's hairstyle is with side buns. Saplings
are placed with chicken or duck feathers, natural flowers, it is also allowed to use fish scale tremors
and white pearl trembles; They can wear ribbons or they also wear a hat with a ribbon. A pair of
simple combs . Up to seven chains can be placed; de rigueur, the chata, guachapalí, witch and
scapular . Bracelets and/or weekly rings can be added. Also necklaces of sapaya seeds, coral and
tears of the virgin. Bone cap and tendrils. It is traditional to wear black corduroy shoes; or they also
wear shoes the color of the pennant. Shoes should not be shiny. The male wardrobe is
characterized by wearing a white guayabera-type shirt with an open collar or Chinese collar, long
sleeves, with four pockets on the front. White or colored buttons. Before, they were made with a
fabric called salt and pepper, which was made with two types of fiber, one fine and the other rough in
a single color. They called these shirts guayaberas, and they used them for parties. They wear black
pants and black shoes and a mosquito-painted or painted hat. 12

Montuna Picarona by Antón

Also known as the picarona, it was widely used by the ladies of yesteryear at Carnival . Their shirts
are made with bual fabrics, speckled lawn, thread holan, voilé; or with marked work, coquito, talcum
powder in the sun without draft and embroidery. With Valencian, cotton, thread and torchon lace.
Mostly the shirts do not match the skirt; Well, in the past, the Antonera ladies made their skirts with
what they received from others. To make their skirts they took and cut the fabric from the curtains
since they lacked resources. They never wear braids, since the Antonera woman is not
characterized by long, straight hair. In the past, saplings used split beads purchased in oriental
stores, similar to Christmas tree balls. They were very delicate, and broke easily. The shirt uses two
washers, tied with wool and one speck in front and one in the back. If you have work, it is traditional
for it to be small. The lace on the shirt can be highlighted with the color of the work. The chintz fabric
skirt in two sections (bodies) finished with a picarone. The flowers of the blackberry are larger and
more showy than the cloth used in other regions. It has central front and rear pennants. They wear a
petticoat. The skirt should not be pleated.
Among the dressings used: two arrangements are allowed on the head; one: rear bun with mosquito
hat; Decorated with a ribbon of the same color as the pennant, natural flowers such as papos,
veraneras, bridal bouquet, ixoras can be placed in the ears or on the right side of the head or in the
bun. Before, an acorn was usually placed in the front of the hat. The other: lateral buns with natural
flowers or buds with chicken or duck feathers. Two combs. Up to seven chains of rigor, the chata,
guachapalí, witch and tapahueso. The rosary or scapular must be used; both are preferred. You can
add a bracelet and/or weekly rings. Bead necklaces made with seeds from the area such as:
pumpkin, coral and tears of the virgin, etc. are also used. Simple tendrils. It is traditional to wear
black corduroy shoes; or also wear shoes the color of the pennant . Shoes should not be shiny. A
"chacarita" and a white handkerchief are allowed on the waistband on the right side. For men, it is
worn with the same clothing that accompanies the basquiña. On Shrove Tuesday they replaced the
traditional shirt with a more elaborate one, with marked work and fringes. In the prickly pears, and
even more so in the carnival ones, perfumes such as Florida water and Pompeii were sprayed to
warn with the fragrance that the prickly pear was coming; The couples tied their wrists with a
handkerchief and carried the perfume in the other hand. 12

Antón's chambra and basquiña [ edit ]

The chambra and basquiña changing rooms were used to be at home. They were also used to
attend mass on Sundays and to dance drums when they did not have a mountain. The wealthy
ladies of Antón wore a variation of the basquiña, with a shirt and skirt made of white fabric, the skirt
made of bual, cotton, has body and susto, with little flare, and separated by braid and lace at the
bottom. Both Antón's chamba and basquiña should not fit at the waist and should not be pleated.
The basquiña is a straight-cut white cotton shirt. It is decorated with tucks (folds). There is the
variation of wearing the white shirt decorated with crochet fabrics and another variation of wearing
the shirt in speckled white linen fabric. It can be used with a chintz skirt with a fright and mischievous
body; or with the two-section white skirt.
The skirt of the jacket is made of two sections of chintz with little flare, the shirt is made of the same
fabric, with a round or square Chinese collar, decorated with tucks. Zapayo necklaces or tears of the
virgin, a flat chain with the basquiña and a simple chain with the chambra. You can add bracelets
and/or weekly rings. Black corduroy earrings and shoes. The hairstyle consists of a back bun (up
braid), right braid, right up braid. Placing natural flowers on the right side, preferably papos,
veraneras, ixoras. Saplings adorned with duck or chicken feathers are also allowed, something very
particular to the region. They usually wear a mosquito-colored hat decorated with a long colored
ribbon. In these garments the ribbon is not the color of the skirt. You can use a chacarita.
Gentlemen wear a dirty plaid shirt with colored or white buttons and drill pants (jeans). Work hat like
a reed or mosquito hat. Black shoes. The shirt can have work made with fabric of different colors in
the zig zag-shaped pockets. With Chinese or open collar. They tied their pants with a thread or a thin
rope when they did not have a belt or when they went to work in the fields. This region is the only
one that uses the bronze pestle as a musical instrument. It was brought to Antón by the Spanish to
the estate of the Spanish Rodrigo Cerezo in colonial times. Its original function was as a mortar to
grind spices in the kitchen and medicines such as quinine, to combat malaria. It was also used as a
bell to call black slaves at lunchtime. The blacks used it in their moments of rest. It is unknown who
had the idea of adding it to the Antonero drum (dance), but it is known that it has been used in Anton
for more than a century. 1
THE JEWELS OF THE POLLERA
The ones that are placed on the head

Combs
Many of them have a gold comb, these are our combs whose
edge always appears trimmed with a gold plate that is sometimes
one cm long. wide or more. There is a plain balcony comb, a
balcony comb with pearls and a balcony comb with glitter. The
combs have embossed work or
engraved and on the upper edge an arch series of gold wire that
shows off fixed gold leaves between each one. Those called
smooth balconies only have iron. The one on the balcony with
the pearl has a pearl instead of the leaves.
Comb
The comb is made of tortoiseshell covered with a worked gold
plate, sometimes embossed, sometimes just engraved. They have
a square shape and in others you can see the beautiful
curve with smooth balcony.
The Straw
It measures 5 inches long. There are gold straws with edges that
resemble a dagger and are shaped like a palm leaf; It is placed
next to the back of the head.
Patches or Pains

They are small gold plates, sometimes square, sometimes in the

shape of a trevol with 4 leaves and sometimes in the shape of a
half moon with a ball in the center that the empollerada places
on her temples.
The empolleradas earrings are very attractive. There is a
great variety, we can mention some:
1. Tendrils: earrings with three removable pieces, one is a little
earring with a precious stone from which the second hangs,
which is generally a small gold lasso or a couple of leaves of
this piece, the third hangs a stone trimmed with gold.
2. Tears: small gold flakes in the shape of elongated flakes that
hang from the garnish.
3. The stones used with these earrings are emeralds and rubies,
amethysts, and mother-of-pearl shell.

4. Dormilonas: earrings that feature a small gold coin trimmed,

from which two small gold arches hang.
Tears: made of the same metal as the stud earrings, these
earrings do not use precious stones.
Muskets: they are made of pearls; The nerds really like these
earrings.
Filigree buttons: they are earrings of many fanciful tastes and
they make petticoats and balcony combs without pearls with the
buttons.
The hoops: they show off with corals, pearls or filigram work.

Neck jewelry

Tapahueso : It is a black ribbon from which hangs a gold cross

or a small coin medal crowned with gold.
Choker
It is made of filigram with little flowers, there are also coins
crowned with gold, at the end with tears, this is more expensive
or luxurious than the bone mask.
Chest jewelry
Flat Chain
It is the main chain that the nerdy should not miss.
It is made of a series of intertwined gold scales, held by a double
row of parallel links forming a true scale. An articulated
sardinite hangs from this chain. It also sports a crowned gold
coin, like the averania, which is an anchor in the that two little
angels appear one in front of the other.

Witch Chain
It is a variant of the flat chain because its scales are similar to
the flat chain. It differs only in that they have the appearance of
a Z; This allows him to collect himself to such an extent that it
would seem incredible to deny so little something when it is
shown in the palm of his hand. From there the
witch name
Open Flat Chain
It is the same flat chain, but not closed. At each of its ends this
chain has a filigree gold company in splashes or tears.
Lonely Chain
It is another variant of the chata, the shape of its caps and its
narrowness give it the appearance of a real tapeworm.
The perfect match
It is a chain whose links simulate slices of oranges set in
different planes; a crowned coin always appears hanging from it.

Duck tail
The links of this chain are in the shape of an open duck's tail.
They are crimped in such a way that they achieve a thick and
strong cord of singular attraction.
The Solomonic
It is a twisted fabric; This chain imitates the shape of Solomonic
columns. They are generally a little longer and thicker than the
other chains, which makes them more valuable.
The Guachapalí or Melon Seed
This is a very fragile chain; Its scales in the shape of cocaditas
or small scalloped ovules are linked to each other by means of
gold ribbons as in the weakest chain, which is why it must be
placed on top.
of all the others so that it does not suffer the weight of the
others. They wear a light cross, a Hail Mary or the toothpick and
ear cleaner.
The Sling or Coin Chain

It is a strong and long cord, with a common link, it is very

striking for its series of charms or coins crowned in filigree. We
have seen them made with ten, twenty-five and fifty-cent gold
coins, or high-value gold-plated silver. It is the most expensive
skirt.
The Scapular
It is a cord of fabric very similar to that of the sling, the
scapulars are hung in front and behind. These scapulars are
made from gold or silver plates dipped in gold, approximately
three inches long and two inches wide, on which embossed work
is done the same as those done on fabric scapulars. Some of its
edges are worked in filigree or three smooth.
rosary beads
The chain that is used with the skirt that carries the Hail Marys
and Our Father filigreed worked in gold and coral, is also used
in gold-plated silver and solid gold.
The Musket Cord
It adjusts with a carabiner to the chest. It is generally open and at
its ends it has tiny bells trimmed with pearls or tears. Its weave
is very similar to the ducktail but much thinner than the one
woven for the chain.
COMPLEMENTARY JEWELRY

The Pearl Rosette

It is customary to put this jewel on the speck or acorn of wool
that goes on the chest.
Petticoat Buttons

They are worked in filigree similar to those made for earrings.

They differ in that the interior of these has a pressure through
which the
yarn ribbon that adjusts them to the waist. Today the
empollerada does not need them. Its use is more of a luxury
which is not mandatory to wear; and few people use it.
The Tostada or Tostón
It is a carved gold sheet that hangs from the waistbands on the
belly and is shaped like a half moon, accompanied by crowned
coins that hang from it.
The Purse is a small bag woven in silk thread, elongated in
shape with two solid gold rings, one at each end to separate the
weights of the smaller coins.
admirers of the empolleradas used to give gifts when she wore a
skirt for the first time and showed up at home for a visit.
Bracelets

Solid gold bracelets are worn on the arms. They are very similar
to those called slaves, there are also those called weekly.
Rings
They are also solid gold.
The buckles
The button-buckles are placed on the front of the shoes adorned
with a rosette of lace and silk ribbon, usually gold.
The Petticoat
An important element in the use of our national dress is the
petticoat or petticote. Better said the petticoats, because two and
sometimes three are used. These petticotes are slightly less wide
than the pollerón and are made of fresh white fabric. They are
made of deltic cloth, and very modest people wear narisouk.

The Cloths or Rebozos

That is, the stoles that are made of thread fabric and with
branded stitch work, in serious colors. These works decorate the
ends of the rebozo. They wear fringes from which exquisite
fabrics are made at the base. There is also a rebozo with talcum
work in the shade. The skirt
Montuno style is the one that uses the most rebozo. It does not
mean that it is not used in gala skirts.
THE TEMBLEQUES

A tembleque in its simplest definition is an artificial flower

made of metal worms and beads that are worn on the head and
that dance in time with any movement made by the body of the
person wearing them. The main function that the tembleques
perform is to decorate the head of the empollerada. She can wear
twelve to fifteen pairs of tembleques without looking
overloaded, more than that amount is not recommended, as it
makes her lose her grace, without adding the discomfort that it
can cause to the lady.

According to the research of illustrious Panamanian folklorists,

the use of tembleque has come to replace the natural flowers that
the empolleradas of ancient times used, for example Armando
Reclús writes that: “The empolleradas that he observed when he
was in the isthmus, used some natural flowers in the head".
Hence what was commonly seen, and that to this day we can
observe, our peasant women who often place a carnation over
their ear or under the brim of their hat when wearing a skirt or a
folkloric outfit.
Today our empolleradas have adopted the use of El tembleque
or Flor de Pollera, but they not only use tembleques with floral
designs, and we also find imitations of insects and even birds.
Thus, we can find common tembleques in popular use with
imitations of natural flowers such as lilies, chabelitas, roses,
leaves, palm parakeets, etc., we also find imitations of insects,
such as flies, dragonflies, butterflies, scorpions, certain birds
such as pigeons, turkey poults and marine animals such as
seahorses and sea stars.

To make a tembleque you need materials such as shiny metal

"worms" and pearl beads, which can be of any color, and if you
want to resemble pearls they must be completely white. We
have also been able to find that there are tembleques made with
fish scales and worms with pieces of shiny silks, worms and
"rabo de micho (cat)". Although less common, legitimate gold
and pearls are usually used. The tradition of using this
tembleque made of gold tells us about an arrangement in which
only up to two pairs fit, but not about a head completely covered
with this type of flowers.
Small rose buds are made with silk, decorated with leaves made
of worms and "rabo de micho (cat)," which resembles a garland
without flowers, bristling with numerous very shiny and light
metal stamens.
TYPES OF SKINS
Among the types of skirts are:

• The basquiña: used for women's daily tasks, it only uses a

solitary chain, the ducktail chain and the tendrils.

• The Montuna Santeña skirt: dress worn by peasant women

who come down from the high towns to the town's festivities,
they have their night headdress and for the day they use a
painted hat,
braids and some trembles; In the case of the night, the hat is
replaced by balcony or glitter combs.

• Gala Santeña's skirt:

This being the most made with special work. In the case of
white dress skirts, these will not have work. They are
accompanied by two glitter balconies, combs, straws and
tembleques. Complete neck and chest arrangement.

To distinguish the work of the Gala skirts there are:

• Talc work in shade

• Talcum Works in the Sun
• Branded or Marked Work
• Embroidered Work
• The Darned
The skirts for the regions of the province of Herrera , Montuna
Ocueña, this costume is accompanied by a headdress made of
tembleques, a white hat, braids and natural flowers; This
Montuna's shirt is white with lace.

For the province of Veraguas, female dress is equal to the

Ocueña mountain since the regions border between provinces.
In the province of Coclé , in the region of Nata and Penonomé,
skirts are decorated with colored tembleques, natural flowers
and white jasmines.

The skirts in the province of Chiriquí : they use a wide variety

of white skirts and basquiña shirts.
 In Bocas del Toro: skirts were not
used in this province, but since the emigration of Santeña
families they have worn the typical Santeña skirt.

In Darién, during folklore festivals, the skirt is of a chintz cut, a

blouse, they decorate their heads with natural flowers and wear
black corduroy shoes.

In Colón: they use old skirts, a wide skirt with floral work of
the same fabric of different sizes of printed cotton fabric, on
their heads they use dried natural flowers called canitolendas
and they place long necklaces and fantasy ornaments on their
chests and feet. barefoot
How is the typical Panamanian female costume composed?
It is a fact that the Panamanian skirt, although it is the most important and outstanding part of the outfit, must
not be left aside the other parts that make up the typical Panamanian female costume, which is made up of the
following pieces:

Shirt
In the typical Panamanian costume, a shirt cannot be missing where you can notice inside it a basic frame
where the shirt is also decorated with several braids and two washers, one inside and the other at the top
accompanied by lace.

The polleron
The Panamanian skirt cannot be missing from this typical costume because it is the most outstanding piece of
it. The Panamanian skirt is made up of three parts which are the following: the body, the waistband and the
skirt of the skirt, these pieces are Made with white fabric or they can be printed with different colors and also
to make it more striking with lace where all the work is usually done by hand. It is evident that the Panamanian
Pollera is a very expensive dress and requires time to make, which can take up to two years to complete, since,
as we had already mentioned, it is made entirely by hand which is something really fascinating where several
techniques are used to make their designs. (see: Typical costumes of Honduras )
Accessories and decorations
The typical female Panamanian costume can never lack accessories which makes it stand out among other
typical costumes, in addition to being evident that these pieces are essential, here you will find everything
about the Panamanian skirt and its accessories.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73k_BtGgMz4

Jewelry
All women in the world love jewelry and in the typical costume of Panama they can never be missing, where
we can find the decorations worn on the head where we can find the straw, the combs, the earrings in the ears
or the comb. . On the neck part they usually wear another necklaces, which are generally seven, these are the
following: the scapular, the rosary, the sling, the guachapalí, the flat chain, solitary chain and witchla chain. On
the other hand, you can also include buttons for the petticoat, a choker and the musket.

Panamanian skirt trembles

Tembleques are flowers, doves, butterflies and scorpions that are designed in different ways, which are found
in the typical costume of Panamanian women. Previously these pieces were made with fish scales, although
today plastic and tortoiseshell are usually used, with Swarovski beads being the most extravagant. The
trembles are very well made and you can see how to make them in the following video.

Petticoat
The petticoat is a feminine undergarment, it is worn under the skirt, in order to hang softly and also to prevent
the lady's skin from being irritated due to other thick fabrics.

Shoes
The shoes that are used in the typical female costume are normally made of materials such as satin, corduroy,
velvet or satin.

Rebozos or cloths
For those who do not know what Cloths or Rebozos are, it is an accessory that is normally used to protect
yourself from the sun or even the cold. It is a fabric made from the same fabric used in the skirt that usually
has striking designs. .

The Panamanian skirt and its parts

The Panamanian skirt has different parts which make it what it is today to be part of an elvarodado and
magnificent typical Panamanian costume:

1. pennant:
This piece of the Panamanian skirt consists of decorations that are normally a satin ribbon that is located
behind or can be in front of the waistband of the Panamanian skirt. The aforementioned ribbons can measure
an inch or two wide, their size will depend on the size of the Panamanian skirt up to about twelve inches, it is
important to mention that the same ribbon that is used in this place is generally also used for the realization of
the bowtie used in the shoe.

2. skirt bodies
3. work on the body
4. wide braid that divides the body of the scare
5. skirt scare
All these pieces are worked on a white fabric to which several very striking designs are made that characterize
the Panamanian skirt. It can also be said that these designs are made in embroidery. (see: Typical costumes of
Bolivia )