Professional Documents
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The Times - Magazine - 2906
The Times - Magazine - 2906
24
MAN
UP!
No libido,
no problemo:
inside the
testosterone
clinic
‘THE CLOCK
IS TICKING.
I WANT
A BABY
BUT WORK
CALLS’ CAITLIN
Nicole Scherzinger
What I’ve learnt at 46 MORAN
By Andrew Billen All the prime
ministers
I have known
29.06.24
MEN AND THE MANOPAUSE
Inside the testosterone clinic
46 28
6 Caitlin Moran Election special: my eventful encounters with prime ministers (and some wannabes). 11 What I’ve learnt
Kiefer Sutherland on regrets and his relationship with his late father, Donald. 14 Cover story Nicole Scherzinger The former
Pussycat Doll on fame, men and winning an Olivier award for Sunset Boulevard. 20 The day I found my brother’s body The
tragedy behind satirist Jon Harvey’s political career as Count Binface. 24 Parodying posh girls (literally) Comedian Henry
Rowley’s TikTok skits have gone viral. 28 Inside the testosterone clinic Meet the GP who specialises in low libidos
– and the male patients he helps. 31 Eat! Mediterranean dishes by Ben Tish. 42 Our very modern family How baby Sid
came to have one mum and two dads. 46 Karen Gillan The working-class Inverness girl who became one of the world’s
most successful movie stars. 50 Pout! The best buys for fine hair. 52 Giles Coren reviews Julie’s, London W11. 60 Beta male:
Robert Crampton Take it from me: things are only getting better. Melanie Reid is away
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DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR CHRIS RILEY PICTURE EDITOR ANNA BASSETT DEPUTY PICTURE EDITOR LUCY DALEY CONTRIBUTING EDITOR BRIDGET HARRISON
I
week, which I presume by now the right-wingers commiserating,
you know. They’ve not really and the Reform voters never stopped
kept it a secret. drinking anyway.”
Depending on your level For myself, I enjoy election night
of political nerdery, you may even more than I used to, as my job
already be thigh-deep in big means that when I see a politician on the
party plans. General election television, often I have actually met them.
night is like the Euros final This lends an extra frisson to the whole
for people who listen to Today thing – like when you’re watching a travel
on Radio 4, so you might even now be programme and they go to the exact
rearranging the sofas in the living room beach in Wales you’ve been to. Or you’re
around the TV, stashing crates of booze in watching Crufts and have patted specific
the garden and working out what games spaniels and schnauzers.
to play to while away the hours between “Oh, that one was really friendly,”
“10pm”, when the polls close, and you might say. Or, “That one literally
“anything actually happening”, when the was a bitch.”
first results start to come in about 2am. I have to say, my interactions with
For those on the left, “Tory Wipeout politicians have rarely ended well. Usually
Bingo Cards” are available online. for me but sometimes for them too.
These allow you to apply your dabber I recently bumped into Ed Balls in
throughout the night to a grid of marginal a corridor backstage at Lorraine. He
constituencies and compete with friends informed me unexpectedly that Ed Balls
to be the first to shout, “House! Of Day “was all your fault, Caitlin”.
Commons majority!” “What?” I asked.
If, on the other hand, you dread For those who don’t know about Ed
this election as the potential fall of the Balls Day, presumably because you have
oldest political party in the country and not spent half your existence arsing about
the rise of neo-Trotskyite milquetoasts, on social media, it marks the day in 2011
you will also want to be with friends to – April 28, to be precise – when Balls, then
commiserate with them over this terrible shadow chancellor of the exchequer, tried
series of events. I don’t want to make crass wince at all the slurred “pah pah pahs”. to search X, then Twitter, for a recent
generalisations, but I presume that, in It’s presumed there will be a lot of article about himself but accidentally
your misery, at least you’ll be enjoying drinking happening on Thursday. One tweeted “Ed Balls” instead.
ROBERT WILSON
much better wines than the neighbours person I know who runs a branch of This delightfully innocent Old Man
singing Sweet Caroline in their garden Alcoholics Anonymous says she is Technology Struggle instantly became an
if and when Jacob Rees-Mogg loses his expecting mass relapses on election night iconic meme. Retweeted thousands of
seat. So there is that comfort even as you from all sides of the political spectrum. times and folded into all that week’s
Caitlin Moran as
Margaret Thatcher,
photographed by
Jude Edginton
topical jokes, its legacy became so
enduring that Balls’ showstopper creation
on The Great Celebrity Bake Off was an DAVID CAMERON KEIR STARMER
“Ed Balls” cake. In 2023, The New York
Times even ran a long and thoughtful
piece on the phenomenon.
Following Ed Balls Day, however,
Balls lost his seat in the 2015 general
election, retired from politics and
gave in to his seemingly inevitable fate:
continuing the vibe of Ed Balls Day by
doing his legendary Gangnam Style on
Strictly Come Dancing.
“I saw some metrics on Ed Balls Day
and you were one of the first people to
retweet it,” he told me in that corridor at
Lorraine. “It was you that kicked the
whole thing off.”
Well, I gasped.
“I’m so sorry,” I said. “Does this mean
there’s a parallel universe out there where
you might have become prime minister
Of all the politicians I’ve met, Starmer reminded me of my
if I hadn’t been pissing around on Twitter
that day?”
he was the rudest by a long husband – a blinking stoicism
He shrugged.
I’m sorry, Ed.
chalk. Possibly because I’d in the face of me and my
If you count “Ed Balls in a parallel
universe” – which, obviously, I do – I’ve
compared his face to a ham friends being hammered
now met four of our prime ministers.
Actually five, if Keir Starmer wins on
Thursday. I have to say, David Cameron educations are. Eton is sold as the I’d ended up running the last 700m
was the rudest by a long chalk. Perhaps etiquette boot camp for posh people to No 10 in heels, which had both deeply
he knew of my potential-prime minister to deal with irascible peasants, such troubled my pelvic floor and triggered
slaying powers and wanted to shut as myself, with a breezy air of amused a sweaty armpit situation so serious,
me down fast. Crush me before I could patronage. Cameron’s descent into a full- I actually had to throw away the cardigan
crush him. on drive-by “f*** you” was a more, to be when I got home. It smelt, simply, of fear.
Can’t lie – it worked. brisk, Wolverhampton way of dealing with Anyway, Brown was very nice,
I was at a party with Giles Coren, things. It was on the lower end of a scale even when I referred to Bill Clinton
mucking about with the cheese buffet, of responses that, at their peak, end as “Old Big Dog”, commented on the
when Cameron, then leader of the with people pulling at each other’s hair president’s recent weight loss and started
opposition, made eye contact with extensions in car parks. In a way, I give riffing on how he was still “pretty hot”,
us and started to move towards us. him respect. I suspect I would have been only for Brown to reply, with an anxious
I felt a measure of alarm at this as, just that petty too. adherence to the facts, “Well, he’s been
months previously, I’d written a column The man he was about to supersede, terribly ill recently, Caitlin. That’s why
in which I’d referred to Cameron’s pinkly Gordon Brown, was much more courteous. he’s lost all the weight.”
peevish demeanour as being redolent of I interviewed him in Downing Street in My conclusion: Gordon Brown
“a camp gammon robot… a C-3PO made his last year in power and he was very – very polite to sweaty journalists but
of ham”, and the phrase had kind of… understanding about the terribly anxious unable to engage in lubricious Girls
caught on. I’d attended another party for state I was in. Due to a series of Clockwise- Night Out banter.
which someone had actually made a David style misfortunes, I was 20 minutes late: Keir Starmer – oh dear. At this point
Cameron out of ham, which is one of the my printer had broken down, I’d missed in 2024, if you have a story about meeting
more extraordinary things I’ve seen. Or my train, a taxi took ages to arrive and, Starmer at a party in 2019, before he
eaten. I consumed fully half of Cameron’s when it did, it was a battered camper van became the leader of the Labour Party,
delicious piggy, crumbed face. that looked exactly like the one the Libyan this is the moment when your tale has
So as Cameron reached Giles and me, terrorists drive in Back to the Future. This its greatest value. If he becomes prime
I gave him a nervous “the cut and thrust was the van in which I would be arriving minister – after first turning around
of politics, huh!” smile. at Downing Street, in one of the most a Labour Party that was on its knees
Smiling back, still looking me right in heavily policed areas in Britain. and then masterminding what looks
the eye, Cameron replied, “I do so enjoy Except when I got in the van, it turned to be a historic landslide victory – then
reading your columns… Giles,” then out that the driver didn’t know where everyone is going to want to know: what
inserted himself between us, turned his Downing Street was. I was furiously was he like? Could you tell he was a man
back on me and shook Giles’s hand. It was incredulous about this – IT’S 10 of destiny even then? At a party, does
a total freeze-out. He did not turn round DOWNING STREET! ONE OF THE he just finally let go, knock back the
to address me once. In the end, it was so MOST FAMOUS ADDRESSES IN THE spicy margs and then start playing that
GETTY IMAGES
rude I had to walk away, giggling. WORLD! – until I realised that I too didn’t game where you gaffer-tape stacks of
At the time, I remember marvelling really know where Downing Street was. cider tins to your hands while shouting,
at how misrepresented public school Near the Strand? “I’m a wizard”?
Black Panther Party [which I was very busy and having to each other through things. able to share a drink with a
called for the arming of all eat three meals a day seemed When my daughter was born, great old friend really tells me
African Americans] and like a waste of time. I managed I realised how unprepared I was. I’m not at work any more. n
was organising a breakfast to live on chicken breast with She was so small that I was
programme so children could vegetables for about a decade. scared to hold her. I realised Kiefer Sutherland’s premium
get fed before they went to Learning to cook has opened that being a father was not a Canadian whisky, Red Bank, is on
school. There were rumours up food for me. lark; it was a real responsibility. sale at masterofmalt.com (£40.67)
Photographed by
Robert Wilson.
Styling: Hannah
Rogers. This page:
clothes by Dolce
& Gabbana.
Opposite: top,
Dolce & Gabbana;
trousers, Schiaparelli
With the Pussycat Dolls in the early Noughties
O
nce she was a pussycat, have him living/ She’ll take him dead”) but
a doll, a Pussycat Doll. Now Aretha Franklin’s Respect (“I got to have/
Nicole Scherzinger, after four A little respect”). And in fact, among the
months at the Savoy Theatre anthems and Pussycat Dolls numbers, she
in London at the end of last will be singing Screamin’ Jay Hawkins’
year, is and may for ever terrifying I Put a Spell on You (“Because
remain Norma Desmond. you’re mine”).
Her incarnation of the crazed, But this is a musing too far for her.
tragic, fallen movie star at the “I can tell you haven’t watched it
unstable centre of Andrew [the musical’s revival],” Scherzinger scolds
Lloyd Webber’s 1991 musical Sunset me. “Norma’s not a diva. That’s the old
Boulevard has all but obliterated memories perception – her being this deranged,
of those who played her before, from Faith crazy, grasping woman. Our take on this
Brown in Plymouth to Glenn Close on story is a lot different. She’s not a diva. She
Broadway. With a best actress Olivier knows what she wants and she works very
award packed in her actual or mental hard for what she wants and she has so
luggage, this autumn she will head for much left to give – her career was just cut
Broadway herself and spend nine months short and she was dismissed and that’s
doing it all again. difficult for her. Rejection and loneliness
And I mean “all”. Director Jamie and emptiness are what she battles with,
Lloyd’s apparently bizarre decision to and not being able to fulfil her dream. So
cast a beautiful 46-year-old pop icon as that doesn’t sound like a diva to me.”
a decrepit former silent film star proved Although I get that her reinterpreted
unexpectedly insightful, not only into Norma is not past it or deluded, merely more realistic peers by telling professors
what Desmond represents as a woman in angry that while still in her powers she her ambition was to get to Broadway. And
showbusiness but into Scherzinger herself. has been faddishly neglected, my not now, I say, here she comes.
True, the American singer was far from having caught the new Sunset is not “Yes, many years later. I would have
a forgotten recluse haunting her own Los a problem we easily surmount in this been probably 19, 18, 17 when I said that.”
Angeles mansion/luxurious London rental. interview. Scherzinger is full of regret And the ambition was to perform
But Scherzinger’s career did appear to be and I am full of remorse. musical theatre rather than anything else?
on a one-way trajectory, from raunchy As to whether Scherzinger might “Well, from the time I was six I loved
pop idol whose hits, including Don’t Cha turn out to be a diva herself, having Whitney Houston, so part of me wanted
(“…wish your girlfriend was hot like me”), interviewed Lauren Bacall, Anita Ekberg to be like Whitney, right? But then the
became part of the soundtrack to the and Dame Joan Collins, I am prepared other part of me… I’ve just always felt
Noughties, to talent show panellist. Before for the possibility. Before I get to the really at home on stage and in a theatre.”
seeing her in Sunset, audiences would not studio I receive messages that she is late, It’s interesting, I say. Introverted actors
have been likely to make the comparison, but she soon turns up so I reckon we I have spoken to have also talked about
but Scherzinger did as soon as she read are just dealing with standard celebrity being “at home” on stage.
the script. So loudly did Norma speak to deviation. When I arrive, the shoot is still “I think I was always an introvert.
her, so obviously did their demons pelt going on. To be frank, I have heard more I still am in a lot of ways,” she says.
from the same regions of hell, that the laughter at such sessions. This one ends “I couldn’t care less to go on a red
role became her therapy. cordially with a handshake. carpet or to an after-party. I feel more
“It’s changed me in so many ways,” What does not discourage me, however, comfortable in my skin when I’m on stage.
she says one lunch hour in an east is that she has prepped for our interview. It’s kind of weird.”
London photo studio. “It’s grown me. It’s Sometimes publicists ask for examples She felt uncomfortable as a child
evolved me. I’ve had to let go of a lot of of the questions we intend to ask their because she felt different. Although from
insecurities and any comforts that I had. client, but in practice, I doubt the client the age of six she was brought up in
And in a lot of ways, it’s healed me. It’s even looks at them. Not so Scherzinger, Kentucky, she had been born in Hawaii
been an amazing healing process.” who has thought through her replies to a Hawaiian mother of Ukrainian
What were those insecurities? and made notes and, when we get going, descent. Her father, Alfonso Valiente, was
“Norma has insecurities like we all have: asks me to excuse her if she occasionally Filipino. “So I didn’t really look like the
fears of being alone, feeling emptiness, refers to them on her phone, which she other kids in Louisville, in the south.
feeling misunderstood, feeling dismissed.” does. She is taking this seriously, which They were more fair skin and blue eyes,
And she, Scherzinger, had those too? I suspect is the way she treats everything. blonde hair, and I looked a little like a
“Oh, for sure. That’s why I was able to As a panellist on the American version brownie, you know? I was always a bit
connect with the character so much. The of The Masked Singer, for instance, she awkward and shy.”
reason it is a healing process is that I got was known as Sherlock Scherzy for her Her father left the family when she was
to bring all that to the forefront on stage, forensic interrogations of the stars hiding tiny, after which her mother, Rosemary,
night after night, seven shows a week. behind fantastical disguises. Her only dip a clerk, married Gary Scherzinger, a
That was exhausting, but through that in professionalism during our chat is German-American welder. I wonder
process I got to heal some old wounds when, midway through, she asks me my whether that early separation from her
and some of my issues.” name – but that’s fine too. It’s not as if father has affected her.
GETTY IMAGES, MARC BRENNER
The problem, I suggest, is that having it’s ever up in lights. “I don’t know. I was so young.
played this diva to such acclamation, she We are sitting on sofas in a quiet space Obviously I’ve had lots of different outlets
may be mistaken for a diva herself. The next to the studio. I start by quoting from of help and therapy. They say, ‘Oh my
audience at the Henley Festival, where she an old interview in which she recalled gosh, your years from three to eight really
will be appearing for one night only next studying acting – including Stanislavski shape you.’ And I guess he did leave me
month, may be half-expecting her to sing and Shakespeare – at Wright State and my mum when I was three. I’m sure
not only Salome from Sunset (“If she can’t University in Ohio. She would upset her psychologically it contributed to my
she had made him look like “an absolute that women have come a long way and our fullest potential and best life, we
HAIR: CRAIG MARSDEN AT ONE REPRESENTS USING BALMAIN HAIR COUTURE. MAKE-UP: CHYNARA KOJOEVA USING
twot”. They have, obviously, more than I also think maybe it’s not the industry should all have such people on hand.
made up now. that has allowed women to come a long So the psychic healing of Nicole
RIGHT: TOP AND SKIRT, DOLCEGABBANA.COM. EARRINGS, TASAKI.CO.UK. CHAIR, ANTHROPOLOGIE.COM
“I think that’s just time, you know? way, but the women themselves who have Scherzinger is not just down to a West
Andrew has done so much for me and he’s done that. I’m in control of my career. End musical, but it is surely a big part. No,
a friend. He and his family, they’re dear I do things on my terms now. My team I did not see her Sunset but YouTube has
friends of mine. And you know, he really supports me in my decisions. People don’t videos of her taking a bow on its first
did put a lot on the line and wanted to tell me what to do.” night and on its last. In the first she looks
bring Cats to Broadway. But it wasn’t in Since the beginning of 2020, mostly relieved, but in the last she is
the cards, I guess. It wasn’t in the stars. Scherzinger has been in a relationship triumphant, commanding and utterly
“It’s beautiful how things work with Thom Evans, a former Scottish spent. In both her hair is awry and her
themselves out. I’m honestly a big believer international rugby player six years black nightie drenched in blood.
in just letting things go that don’t serve her junior. She met him when he was “It’s great when you do the work,”
you, in growth and forgiveness. I don’t competing on The X Factor: Celebrity. she says. “You have to do the work and
like to hold on to things, because you’re Apparently, at home he sings more than you’ve got to look ugly in the face and
the only person that suffers. I think it she does. “It’s nice, because he likes a sometimes you’ve got to look ugly while
also brings people closer, you know? system – he’s extremely organised and you’re doing it, which is what I’ve done
Because we’ve gone through so much he’s extremely on time, which is the in this character. There were tears, blood
it’s a real relationship and we can be real opposite of me, so he makes me so and lots of snot. Never did I think I’d get
with one another.” much better in that way. I don’t know to that moment.”
He must have said, “Wow!” when he if all rugby players are like this but he’s But she did and there she was:
saw her as Norma. the cleanest. He’s OCD like me and I just bloodied, bowing, victorious. n
“Oh yes, I think he’s said more love it. It’s great.”
than that.” The other great thing about Evans Henley Festival presented by Westcoast
After a brief television reunion of the is that he likes his sleep. “He’s kind of runs July 10-14. Nicole Scherzinger performs
Dolls on The X Factor: Celebrity five years reprogramming my mind and helping me on July 10 at 9pm. For ticket information, go
ago a new tour was planned, but in 2022 try to sleep more. I’m loving sleep now.” to henley-festival.co.uk
Dan in 2008
Jon in Count Binface guise for the London mayoral election this year
Jon Harvey, 44,
photographed by
Matt Crockett
Jon Harvey is best known as Count Binface, the ‘novelty politician’ who is
standing against Rishi Sunak in the general election next week. But there is a
personal tragedy behind the comedian’s public persona – the sudden death of
his beloved older brother at 43. Here he describes the worst day of his life
The brothers by the Thames in 2011
S
ome of my favourite tales end kick-off. That wasn’t ideal for me, being a
with death. At the end of the Tottenham fan. But then again, there are
Star Wars trilogy, Darth Vader much worse things an older brother can
dies. At the end of the Back be into. Just ask Prince Edward.
to the Future movies, the The unanswered texts and calls
DeLorean dies. At the end of continued into Monday. I tried to carry on
the latest Ghostbusters movie, as normal. In the evening I even went on
the integrity of the franchise a Tinder date to see a play, which ended
dies. But this story begins with in a kiss by the ticket barriers at Leicester
death. Because for those of us Square Tube. But my mind was several
left behind, that’s how it happens. Death zones away. (Sorry, Daisy.) At 10.30pm
strikes first, and then we have to pick up my mum called. “I’m worried,” she said.
the pieces and learn to cope. Nearly a So was I. Still there was silence from Dan.
decade has passed since my darkest day, We needed to find him. I tried to keep us
but these are still the most difficult words both calm and offered to go over to his
I’ve ever had to write: I used to have an flat straight away if she thought that was
older brother. best. But if everything was OK, as we
Seven simple words, one unbearable obviously hoped it was, then he’d probably
truth, which has just become harder than be asleep and wouldn’t hear me knocking.
ever. Because suddenly it’s true in more So what if instead I went over there first
ways than one. My brother Dan passed thing in the morning? Mum agreed and
away unexpectedly in 2015, when he was we said goodnight.
only 43. He was nine years older than me, Half of me stayed rational, refusing to
old enough to be almost like a second dad entertain dark thoughts. The other half
as well as a sibling. Last month, I turned was racing. Reassuring words were offered
44, and that means I’ve reached a new,
hateful milestone – an age that my
by housemates, but they just bounced off
me. Come dawn I found myself sitting on
He clearly struggled
brother never got to see.
This sour quirk of grief is rarely
the loo, shaking and googling, “What to
do if you find a dead body”.
with mental health
discussed, but it must be a tragically Once I’d reached Dan’s minuscule issues. I just thought
common sensation. If you’re feeling it studio flat – a Kensington aberration, it sat
right now as you read this, my heart goes on a street of millionaires like a pimple on he was a bit unusual
out to you. If my experience is anything a supermodel – I started contemplating
to go by, it’s a real mind-melter. Am I the how to break in. But there was no need.
older brother now? Are my memories For some reason the front door to the Why did my brother die? By the time
invalidated? Will my life be forever tainted building was ajar, so I ran up the stairs, of his funeral, we didn’t have an answer.
by this extra shot of sadness? Do I need banged on his door and yelled his name. The post-mortem result was only sent
to recalibrate Dan – how I fitted in his life, No response. I phoned his mobile and to us weeks later, so while I delivered
and how he fits in mine. It’s brought all pushed my ear up against the door to a eulogy extolling his infectious joie
the pain back, somehow sharper too, like listen. It rang. And rang. “I’m here, bro,” de vivre, for all I knew he might have
a 4K UHD reissue of a horror film. I’m I shouted. “I’m calling 999. If you can hear committed suicide. And while I didn’t give
having to live it, and fight it, all over again. me, help’s coming.” No response. I dialled that thought much credence, the spectre
It was just before 9am on Tuesday, emergency services and explained the of it did lurk. Dan had had a difficult last
PREVIOUS SPREAD: COURTESY OF JON HARVEY, STEVE CLEVERLEY, PA. THIS SPREAD: COURTESY OF JON HARVEY
June 9, 2015, when the world caved in. situation, my voice dry and breaking. The few months. He’d quit his job at the local
It was one of those summer mornings operator told me the police and an council, possibly after suffering some
when sunlight bathes London in gold ambulance were on their way. workplace bullying, and he didn’t have a
and optimism. In the backstreets of Until they came, I didn’t really know bean. He wasn’t a picture of health either.
Kensington, birdsong blended with the what to do. My brother either was or wasn’t He was a squat man with a head of short
soft hum of a vacuum cleaner wafting out on the other side of that thick wooden bushy black hair, two parts Danny Baker
of a pub and the gentle clank of empty door and he either was or was not alive. to one part Ronnie Corbett. He had a
swings in the children’s playground. Schrödinger’s sports fan. All I could do was slow, shuffling walk due to the obesity
Normal things. But normality was a wait. I headed back downstairs, wedged the he’d carried for his whole adult life.
universe away for me. I was standing house door open with a phone book, and Nothing too notable about that in
outside Dan’s flat and I was very scared. sat on the steps outside. I felt very small. 21st-century Britain, but since the new
What was now full-blown terror had It was an excruciating hour before the year he’d put on more weight and from
begun 36 hours earlier as a nagging police arrived. (The ambulance never did.) time to time complained of leg pains.
concern. Dan had been due to join us at Two constables turned up. I swallowed Still, nobody thought he was in imminent
Mum’s house for Sunday lunch but didn’t hard, told them what I knew, and they danger. So what was it that actually did
show up. Had he fallen asleep at home? followed me upstairs. They had a portable for him? The coroner ruled that Dan had
Maybe his shonky old mobile phone had battering ram and they asked me to fallen into a hypoglycaemic coma brought
given up the ghost. Perhaps he’d just stand aside. A brief smash and the first on by diabetes. He’d never been diagnosed
decided to go off grid for a bit. For Dan policeman forced his way in. with the condition.
this wasn’t entirely out of the ordinary. He “Is he in there?” his colleague asked. And that disease wasn’t the only
had a habit of not replying to messages “Yeah, he’s here.” complication he had that was going
and his timekeeping was erratic at best. And that was it. The only friend untreated. He clearly struggled with
Unless Crystal Palace Football Club was I’d known my whole life. He’d had mental health issues too, but those had
involved, that is. Dan was an ardent Palace the happiest happy-face I’d ever seen, never officially been recognised either. As
supporter. In a quarter of a century as a soundtracked by the happiest laugh. a kid, I didn’t think too much about it. I just
season ticket-holder, he barely missed a And he was gone. thought he was a bit unusual: a touch of
‘Oh my God!
My sweat
is literally pure
Whispering Angel’
a ‘Minty’ [Rowley’s name for his posh-girl characters. Can we get a photo?’ ” will all have met a posh person like Minty
MAKE-UP: LUCIE PEMBERTON USING CHARLOTTE TILBURY. HAIR BY KRYSTAL BUCKLEY
alter ego]. His hangover uni sketches It’s no surprise that Rowley’s posh at some point. “Across generations, for
really remind me of when me and the characters parody me so accurately. people who went to unis like Bristol, there
girls tried to cure our hangovers by He says they are “an amalgamation of was always someone like that.”
drinking rosé.” every friend I made at Bristol Uni”, where One of his most relatable sketches for
I am meeting Rowley for breakfast at I also studied. We overlapped there for a me, a vaping addict, is called Posh Girl
Caravan in King’s Cross, near his home. year and both did English. He jokes that Loses Her Vape. The skit was based on
He’s wearing all black, from his boots to we were probably dancing in the now a real friend losing her Juul vape on her
his leather jacket, and a knitted sweater defunct Bristol nightclub Blue Mountain birthday. “She was going mental. Like,
vest that reveals tattooed arms. He is at the same time. ‘Where the f*** is my Juul? Who’s stolen
bedecked with silver rings, earrings, In the year I graduated, my hall of my Juul?’ It turned out she was sitting on
bracelets and necklaces. residence, Badock, was crowned “the it. The next day I made a video.” Did his
He comes across as faultlessly polite, poshest hall” by the student newspaper, friend not mind? “She loved it. People
self-deprecating and funny. When I drop The Tab, after it revealed that 56 per cent don’t get offended.”
my notebook on the floor, he pretends to of its residents that year were educated at Rowley’s Bristol friends call him by
read my notes and asks, “Why have you independent schools. his surname, which is a very boarding
written ‘twat?’ ” He slips in and out of his “Bristol girls” like me gave Rowley the school trope, but he went to a private
characters’ voices during our conversation inspiration for Minty’s raspy low voice. day school in Leicester. “I was the least
as he nibbles a giant pain au chocolat. “There was a girl in my first-year English posh in the school. But I was the only
On Instagram he is followed by former class who had the huskiest voice I’ve ever one of my mates in Leicester who went
Made in Chelsea stars including Louise heard. I remember thinking, ‘It’s freshers to private school, so they called me ‘the
The COUPLE
From left: Dr Jeff Foster, who runs a clinic that treats men with low testosterone; his
patient Stephen Webb; patient turned testosterone clinic founder Alastair Kennett;
Anthony and Rachael Clark Hurd. Portraits: Tim Jobling. Story continues on page 38
Eat!
4 - P L LO U
PU
AG T
E
Five delicious summer
dishes by Ben Tish
CLEMENCE STREET MOUSSAKA • 2 large free-range eggs, beaten pan off the heat and leave it to cool
• Nutmeg, for grating slightly, then beat in the eggs, grate
Serves 4 in nutmeg to taste and season with salt
1. Preheat the oven to 180C fan/gas 6. and pepper.
While mostly associated with Greece, Lightly oil as many baking sheets as you 6. Arrange one third of the aubergines
moussaka has its roots in the Middle East need to hold the aubergine slices in a in an ovenproof serving dish, then top
where layers of aubergine, tomato and single layer. with half the lamb ragout. Repeat these
meat are baked and combined with fresh 2. Place the aubergines on the baking layers, finishing with a layer of aubergine
herbs, cheeses and spices. Eastern Europe sheets. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, and the sauce spooned over the top.
also has a version that predates the Greek. drizzle over a little olive oil and season. 7. Place the dish on a baking sheet
This is my version, inspired by many Bake for about 20 minutes until they are and transfer to the oven. Bake for about
wonderfully vivid and sparkling Greek soft, golden and tender. Do not turn off the 45 minutes until bubbling and well
holidays, now regularly enjoyed at our oven when you take out the aubergines. browned. Set aside to cool for 30 minutes
home in east London. 3. Meanwhile, heat a good splash of olive before serving. Sprinkle over extra cheese,
oil in a large frying pan over a medium- if you want, and garnish with the
• Olive oil high heat. When hot, add the onion remaining mint leaves.
• 3 medium or 2 large aubergines, and fry, stirring occasionally, until it is
cut lengthways into 5mm slices softened but without colour. Add the FRIED SQUID WITH SAMPHIRE
• A handful of panko breadcrumbs garlic, cinnamon and half the mint leaves AND PRESERVED LEMONS
• Sea salt and black pepper and stir for a further couple of minutes.
• 1 large onion, finely chopped 4. Stir in the lamb, turn up the heat Serves 4 as a starter
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped slightly and brown the meat well, cooking
• 1½ tsp ground cinnamon until the mixture is quite dry. Stir in One of life’s true pleasures – a plate of
• A handful of mint leaves, chopped, the tomato puree and wine and bring crispy squid served alongside an ice-cold
plus extra to garnish to a simmer, then add the tomatoes. beer, preferably somewhere by the sea
• 500g minced lamb Turn down the heat to low and leave to where it is sunny and hot.
• 2 tbsp tomato puree simmer for 30-40 minutes until most of The Cretans know how to fry squid.
• 200ml dry red wine the liquid has evaporated. Season well Baby squid are the best when split, dipped
• 400g tinned chopped tomatoes and stir in the parsley. in a coarse flour and fried very quickly for
• A handful of parsley, chopped 5. Make the sauce. Bring the milk to a nice crunch and served piping hot.
just below boiling in one pan and melt
For the sauce the butter in another saucepan over a • 400g baby squid, cleaned and
• 500ml whole milk medium-low heat. Stir the flour into the cut in half, tentacles and all
• 60g butter, diced butter and continue stirring for 2 minutes, • 500ml whole milk
• 60g plain white flour then gradually whisk in the hot milk until • 4 tbsp coarse cornflour
• 50g kefalotyri or pecorino cheese, you have a thick, smooth sauce. Add the • 4 tbsp plain white flour
grated, plus extra to finish (optional) cheese and stir until melted. Take the • Sea salt
• 1 red onion, unpeeled and 5. Meanwhile, strain all the juices from the • 100g coriander sprigs
cut into quarters roasting tin into a saucepan. Put the grapes • 50g flatleaf parsley sprigs
• 1 garlic bulb, cut in half widthways back in the tin and return to the oven. • Half a green pepper, halved,
• 1 oven-ready free-range chicken, Roast for a further 5 minutes or until they cored and deseeded
about 1.8kg are sticky and begin to caramelise. • ½ tsp ground cumin
• Olive oil 6. Add the remaining 150ml stock to the • Sea salt and freshly ground
• Sea salt and freshly ground pan and boil for 10 minutes or until the black pepper
black pepper juices have reduced and thickened. Serve
• 4 fresh rosemary sprigs the chicken with the sticky, sweet grapes 1. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan
• Half an unwaxed lemon and the sauce for pouring over at the table. and cover by 3cm with cold water. Add
• 700g seedless red or black grapes, 100g sea salt and then bring to the boil,
ideally on their stalks SLOW-ROAST POTATOES covered. Uncover the pan, lower the heat
• 200ml dry red wine WITH GREEN SAUCE and leave the potatoes to simmer until just
• 300ml chicken stock (fresh tender. Drain well. When they are cool
or homemade is best) Serves 4; the sauce makes about 200ml enough to handle, cut in half lengthways.
2. Preheat the oven to 170C fan/gas 5.
1. Preheat the oven to 200C fan/gas 7. A wonderful dish from Mallorca, where 3. Place all the sauce ingredients in a
2. Put the onion and half the garlic bulb in potatoes are revered as much as meat or blender and blitz until a coarse paste forms.
a deep roasting tin. Rub the chicken with fish. It’s one of my favourite potato dishes, Season to taste. Set aside until needed.
olive oil, then season all over and inside the great on its own or served with grilled 4. Pour a good layer of olive oil into a
cavity. Place 1 rosemary sprig, the lemon meats and fish. You need a starchy potato roasting tray. Add the potatoes and stir
half and the remaining half garlic bulb for this. I like Pink Firs, but rattes or them round, then sprinkle with more salt.
in the cavity. Place the chicken on the Charlottes are also good. The salt seems Roast for 35-40 minutes, tossing once or
onion and garlic and transfer to the oven. excessive, but it helps dry the potatoes twice, until crisp and golden. Drain the
Roast for 30 minutes or until the skin has and creates a delicious salty crust. potatoes on a tea towel and serve with the
started to brown nicely and caramelise. mojo verde spooned over the top. n
3. Reduce the heat to 160C fan/gas 4. • 500g Pink Fir or other waxy, dry
Scatter the grapes and three rosemary potatoes (see above), scrubbed
sprigs around the chicken and pour around • 100g sea salt, plus extra for sprinkling Mediterra by Ben Tish
the wine and half the stock. Roast for a • Olive oil (Bloomsbury Absolute,
further 45 minutes or until the chicken £26) is published on
is cooked through – it should be crisp For the green sauce (mojo verde) Thursday. To order go to
and golden on the outside and the juices • 100ml extra virgin olive oil timesbookshop.co.uk or
should run clear when the thigh is pierced. • 20ml red wine vinegar call 020 3176 2935. Free
4. Transfer the chicken to a rimmed plate, • 1 tbsp fennel fronds P&P on online orders
cover with kitchen foil and leave to rest • 1 green chilli, deseeded over £25. Discount for
for 15 minutes. Do not turn off the oven. • 1 garlic clove Times+ members
A SHORE WINNER
Warm welcomes, whale sharks, walks in the Valley of the Giants and on tranquil WHY I LOVE WA
beaches – why Western Australia is one of Bill Bailey’s favourite places on Earth by Brody Whiteman
Travel expert, Flight Centre
ou may have seen him on the four-part
Y
There are around 550 bird species found in
Channel 4 series Bill Bailey’s Australian Western Australia, some of which are unique • It’s always summer somewhere
Adventure, following his epic exploration of to the state. That made it even more special for in Western Australia. Explore
Western Australia. Still available to stream, this famous birdwatcher. Perth and the southwest in the
it makes for compulsive viewing. And for anyone “One of the most beautiful is the splendid UK winter. Go north to Ningaloo
considering a visit, he’s full of pointers about the fairywren. They’re an extraordinary bright blue Reef and the Kimberley for
state’s west coast – the treasure of Oz. and you won’t see them anywhere else in the perfect weather and fascinating
“I first heard about WA as a kid thanks to world,” he says. “The wildlife is breathtaking. Like wildlife from March to October.
my Auntie Gwen who moved to Perth with her a lot of the birds, the smiley quokkas on Rottnest
husband in the Seventies,” says Bill. Island, off the coast of Perth, seem • Hire a car – the space and
“It sounded extremely exotic to me. completely unbothered by humans. otherworldly landscapes of the
“Now it’s one of my favourite You can see them snoozing beneath state call out for a road trip.
places in the world. In WA, Moreton Bay fig trees.”
you can get away from it all Variety is an endless • At Cape Range National Park,
– literally everything you’ve notion in Western Australia the Yardie Creek nature walk is
ever known. The scale of it is – whatever you are looking great for spotting ospreys, emus
like nowhere else. It’s the size for in a trip, there’s the perfect and wallabies. In Turquoise Bay,
of western Europe. It’s the spot for you to find it. “drift snorkel” to see Ningaloo
open space, the amazing Bill says: “There are a million Reef’s coral and marine life.
skies and vistas.” ways to travel WA. Perth has all
For the show, Bill travelled Natural attraction: the big city attractions, Margaret
south to north, taking around four Cape Peron; a cute River has wineries, restaurants and Enjoy a Western Australia getaway
weeks, during the Australian winter. million-year-old caves, Esperance has tailor-made by the travel experts
quokka; whale at Flight Centre. With nearly
“The sunny days were absurdly shark at Ningaloo natural wonders – including kangaroos 35,000 five-star reviews on
beautiful,” he says. “White sands, Reef; Bill Bailey sunbathing on the beach – and Broome Trustpilot and package protection
impossibly turquoise waters. Just two has a tropical climate and 80km of on holidays, you’ll get ultimate
people on the beach: a dog-walker and an dinosaur tracks. You just need to choose. peace of mind. To find out more,
influencer being followed by his own drone.” “My welcome to WA was a personal highlight. go to flightcentre.co.uk/coast-
In the southwest, he visited the Valley of the Doc Reynolds, an Aboriginal elder, led a cuisine or call 0808 296 0518
Giants, known for its treetop walk suspended smoking ceremony for me. The smoke from the
40m above ground in the canopy of huge gum burning of native leaves clung to me. I felt as if
trees. “It feels like the Lost World!” it was saying, while you are here, you will be
Further up the coast he got to fulfil a of this land. I was so moved. The landscape is
long-held dream. “At the Ningaloo Marine not just old, but ancient – it activates a bit of
Park, I finally got to swim with whale sharks the ancient part of us. The bit that likes to live
– a promise I made myself 20 years ago. These outdoors, that has time to watch the sun set,
benign creatures can grow to reach 60ft and to watch the sun rise. It changes your rhythms,
live for 130 years. It was a stunning experience.” your motivations – and it inspires you.”
NOUGHT TO SIX origami-inspired Ribbon light – a of guest designers. Conran’s sons Felix
After six decades of shaking
collector’s favourite – and, of course, and Sebastian are contributing products
up Britain, beloved home and the chicken brick, a terracotta device alongside textile designer Margo Selby,
for steam-cooking poultry that was a ceramicist Silvia Kamodyová and Habitat
furniture brand Habitat is still mainstay of 1970s wedding registries. veteran Tord Boontje.
going strong. So what’s next? Now, in celebration of its 60th birthday, Habitat’s back catalogue also served
the company is set to revive as inspiration for many
t’s difficult to imagine how different some of the nation’s most of these new releases. Just
TY Party people
The Habitat core design
team with guest designers
C L AS S I C S R E I MAG I N E D
1 3
2 1 RIPPLE RUG £295 3 RIBBON LIGHT £50
Brush strokes are Beloved by flea market
interpreted through scourers and eBay collectors
tufted wool in these everywhere, the Ribbon
abstract rugs based metal table light returns
on nude paintings by in a special shade of
Simone Brewster. “anniversary blue”.
M
Michael Douglas with his partner, Davina McCall
women from Venus, but the be normal but “free” testosterone – that
real gender differences show which is not bound to proteins – is
up in how the sexes behave available for use building muscle, driving
in GP Jeff Foster’s surgery. good mood, libido, erections etc).
“Women tend to say Jackson now pays £28 for a monthly
what’s on their mind,” testosterone jab.
Foster says. “But a lot of “I sleep better and the body fat around
men are what I call anxious my middle has shifted.”
‘knob clingers’. They chat I speak to Michael Douglas on the
generally and only tell me what the real set of an ITV production called My Mum,
issue is when they’re on their way out and Your Dad (where single parents nominated
clinging to my doorknob. It’ll be, ‘Actually, by their children go on dates with each
there’s one more thing…’ or, ‘My wife said other) with his partner, the broadcaster
I should mention…’ ” Davina McCall. Douglas is a hairdresser
Foster’s GP practice is in Leamington with a client list that includes the actors
Spa and he’s a good advert for men’s Johnny Depp and Sienna Miller and, of
wellbeing. He goes to the gym five times a course, McCall herself.
week, cycles and plays football. His male McCall has long been a vocal
patients like the fact he looks good and
emits easygoing “bro” vibes. One feels you
‘I DON’T WANT TO TALK advocate for the better understanding
of female menopause. In 2021 she
could tell him anything. ABOUT ME AND DAVINA IN hosted the Channel 4 documentary
“Guys who can’t get it up often wait Sex, Myths and the Menopause and the
years to do anything about it, if they do
THE BEDROOM DEPARTMENT, following year published (with co-writer
anything at all,” he says. “When they walk BUT MY LIBIDO IMPROVED’ Dr Naomi Potter) a well-received book
in here, I encourage them to be brave. called Menopausing.
Tell me if you can’t get erect. Not only But that meant when Douglas,
can I give you your erections back, but a if they start a family. Men don’t engage in 50, started feeling a bit down and
deeper look at your issues might possibly the same way and they suffer needlessly, experiencing low libido, he wasn’t sure if
save your life.” sometimes even die as a result.” he should mention it. After all, a sudden
As a male GP, he is regularly consulted Foster has been practising for drop in testosterone in middle age
about erectile dysfunction. According to 14 years. Three years ago he set up (sometimes infelicitously known as “late
research conducted by the maker of a clinic specifically for men called H3. onset hypogonadism”) is often confused
Eroxon, a topical gel which it claims can It’s private – a men’s health MOT costs with the so-called “manopause”.
produce an erection in ten minutes, 50 per £500. He says men’s health, particularly “What with some women already
cent of all men over 40 will experience sexual health, is an overlooked area. And feeling men are encroaching on their
erectile issues. But what’s the problem? it’s not just erections. Patients present space with regard to trans issues, I totally
Last year marked the 25th anniversary of issues in a variety of ways. get it when they say, ‘Oh, and now they
the introduction of the erectile dysfunction Thirty-year-old Ben Jackson walked want to barge in on the menopause with
pill Viagra and last year 4.5 million doses through the door of H3 two years ago. their manopause!’ ” he says. “But Davina
were prescribed in the UK – with 7,000 Despite being a fitness fanatic who was actually fascinated. She doesn’t feel
going to men in their nineties in 2022. runs, plays rugby and does bodybuilding, women’s issues are being undermined if
But Foster isn’t sure we should be he felt something wasn’t right. men go through something comparable.
celebrating. Viagra is an example of men “I was doing all this sport yet feeling You don’t just want half the population
grasping for the quick, easy fix when the lethargic and suffering with low libido,” he feeling good, right?”
real problems may lie much deeper. says. “I don’t want to knock the NHS, but Like many men, Douglas wasn’t
“Your penis really is the barometer when I mentioned to my GP I thought I sure what underpinned his symptoms.
for overall health and I wish men would might have low testosterone he assumed His morning mood was foggy and
see that,” he says. “If you don’t address the I wanted it to enhance my bodybuilding, he often lacked energy at the gym.
underlying causes of erectile dysfunction, which was rubbish.” In the evenings he didn’t want to go
recent data says you probably have three Foster’s speciality is the sex hormone out to socialise.
years until you will likely have a heart testosterone and the myriad symptoms “I love my life but sometimes in
attack or a stroke.” arising from a deficiency. He is one of the morning there was this sense of,
Erectile dysfunction might have the authors of national guidelines on its ‘I might just go back to bed.’ Davina didn’t
psychological or hormonal causes but, prescription published last year by the notice because I tried to hide it. I’d make
warns Foster, more often than not it British Society for Sexual Medicine. an effort, but if you ask a lot of men
indicates wider vascular damage. Impaired Jackson paid for his MOT. The in their forties and over, it’s not an
blood supply to the penis can in turn one-hour check-up involved completing uncommon experience.”
signal impaired blood supply to the a questionnaire about lifestyle, family One of Douglas’s friends was taking
heart. It’s one of the health issues that medical history, diet, mental health and testosterone shots in Dubai. He suggested
Foster tries to communicate to medicine’s exercise habits. There followed a physical Douglas did the same.
hardest to reach cohort: men over the examination including an ECG (an “I’m the kind of guy that says, ‘I’m
age of 40. electrocardiogram indicates healthy not injecting myself with anything,’ ”
TIM JOBLING, GETTY IMAGES
“Women often develop a lifelong heart rate and rhythm), urine dip (urine he says. But after consulting Jeff Foster,
relationship with their GP,” Foster says. analysis can disclose anything from liver blood tests showed that while his overall
“They visit for the contraceptive pill, then disease and kidney stones to diabetes) and testosterone wasn’t low (the healthy scale
cervical and breast scans and also when a range of blood tests. runs from 6 to 27 nanomoles per litre;
they are pregnant. Then they usually A week later, Jackson had his results. Douglas scored a 20), his free testosterone
take charge of children’s appointments Foster diagnosed a “free” testosterone could have been better. Foster prescribed
a daily 5mg tablet of the drug tadalafil, a and looking forward to life. Now I’ve got person,” he says. “I’d get stressed about
drug which temporarily increases blood that back.” driving into town and finding a parking
flow to the penis. Sometimes the symptoms Foster sees space, anxious about answering the
“I don’t want to talk about me and are much harder to interpret. Stephen phone, even to friends. In terms of libido,
Davina in the bedroom department, Webb, 52, is a self-described “cheeky it wasn’t exactly floppy-willy time, but
but let’s just say my libido improved. chappie”. It’s partly why he was cast in I lost desire there too.”
It did good things for us.” Why is Channel 4’s reality TV show Gogglebox Webb had been to see his regular
Douglas speaking out now? Because between 2013 and 2023. The Brighton- GP and was told his symptoms were all
he believes that too many men are based hairdresser used to enjoy running part of growing old. He also signed up
suffering in silence. but he consulted Foster in 2023 after for six sessions of counselling after it was
“Men are just not good about experiencing high levels of anxiety. suggested he was depressed.
talking about their health,” he says. “I went from running a half-marathon “I knew I wasn’t depressed,” he
“I was used to waking up each morning most weekends to this very anxious says. “And then I read the chapter on
Visit mytimesplus.co.uk
T&Cs apply.
testosterone in Jeff Foster’s book Man me she believes that the proliferation of
Alive and all the symptoms fitted mine.” ‘IT’S THE KIND OF RESPONSE adolescents with gender anxiety issues
“Testosterone affects almost every might be partly explained by similar
cell in your body,” Foster says. “It has WOMEN USED TO HEAR sexual disinformation on social media.
this reputation as the hormone that makes
you angry if you have too much, but the
WHEN TRYING TO GET HRT’ “If you are bombarded with content
telling you you should have a penis
converse is also true. Without enough, this size, or enjoying nonstop sex all
men are like postmenopausal women. In 2017, a year after experiencing weekend, then is it any wonder some
It can affect sex drive, ability to gain the benefits of testosterone replacement children decide, ‘I don’t recognise myself
muscle, mood, even memory.” therapy (TRT), Kennett and his in those stereotypes, so I’m opting out.’ ”
Perhaps Foster’s most extraordinary brother set up Optimale, a testosterone So when should men be worried and
patient was a man in his seventies who replacement therapy clinic. Since when not?
was suffering with memory problems. partnering with Manual, a London “For many men, having an erection is
In fact, when he went to his regular GP, men’s health startup, they have become part of what makes you a guy – it makes
he was diagnosed with dementia. That is, one of the largest TRT clinics in the you intrinsically masculine. So if you want
until his family paid for him to see Foster. country, he claims, treating 5,000 men. to carry on and enjoy it there are options,”
“I prescribed long-action testosterone “We think only 1 per cent of men in Foster says. “For some men and their
shots every 9-12 weeks and his faculties the UK who have low testosterone are partners, declining sexual activity is
were restored,” he beams. being treated for it,” he says. “It affects a not an issue. Good for them. I know my
Middle-aged men are one thing, but huge number of men, and most of them wife worries when I say this, but I hope
millennial men (those aged late twenties have no idea that this is an issue that they to still be having great sex when I’m in
to early forties) can also be affected. are facing.” my nineties.”
This is unusual, since testosterone levels Meanwhile, back in Leamington Spa, Men may flock to Foster’s clinic,
generally begin to decline in men only Jeff Foster has some salutary observations but the “manopause” is hotly contested
when they reach 30 and even then at about young men who almost certainly do territory in the culture wars. Last year the
a rate of just one per cent a year. But not need to worry about their testosterone broadcaster and menopause campaigner
that was not the experience of Alastair or sexual performance. These are younger Mariella Frostrup wrote, “This is nothing
Kennett, now aged 35 and a former men still – often older Gen Z (roughly up short of a land grab. A ludicrous and
NHS physiotherapist. He was just 27 to the age of 27) – a cohort almost too blatant appropriation of women’s midlife
when he first experienced a variety of clued up about sex. Gen Z have navigated health problems.”
troubling symptoms. their sexual development under the “Our argument is: this is not a
“I would yawn all through work,” he warping influence of both internet porn competition,” Foster says. “If one person
recalls. “And if I went to the gym in the and social media and their expectations feels terrible and the other is OK, that
evening I would just sit there, exhausted. sometimes alarm Foster. can destroy a relationship. The menopause
At night it would take me two hours to “When I was growing up you really does affect all women whereas only
fall asleep and I started to get quite bad had to make a considerable effort to a quarter of men are affected by
anxiety at work. My libido was dropping. see a porno mag,” he says. “Young men testosterone deficiency, but we don’t
I had this feeling of depression and low nowadays are bombarded with porn and know enough about it because men
mood but for no reason at all. I had a therefore think they should be having are reticent about their own health. You
girlfriend, good friends.” sex ten times a night. Or they think their can argue that despite having the run of
Kennett took a blood test and penis should be bigger. There is no doubt medicine for the past few centuries – both
discovered his testosterone levels were we are seeing younger men coming in as practitioners and policymakers – men
low. In fact, his brother David, two years asking for testosterone, but if you are still die earlier than women in all aspects
older than Alastair, was also struggling under 30 it is very unlikely you need it.” of health. Part of it is genetic, part of it
with the same symptoms and they I speak to David Joyce, 20 – not a is lifestyle, but a part is poor planning by
later discovered their father suffered patient of Foster’s – who, after becoming the health fraternity.”
a deficiency in the hormone too. anxious about his sexual performance, Foster’s health MOT is expensive
“I suspect there is a genetic element,” bought Viagra on the internet. He even though. Isn’t this privatisation by the back
STYLING: HANNAH ROGERS. HAIR AND MAKE-UP: JULIA WREN USING SKINCEUTICALS AND
he speculates. However, two weekly considered penis enlargement surgery. door? “You could ask your GP for all
COLOUR WOW. DRESS, EMILIA WICKSTEAD (THEOUTNET.COM). SHOES, MINTVELVET.COM
testosterone injections totalling 120mg “My first serious girlfriend at uni the same blood tests we do. In fact, if you
have changed his life. “I was suddenly a broke up with me and I talked myself go and see any consultant privately they
lot more assertive and confident at work,” into thinking it was to do with how should be offering the same principle of
he says. “My energy levels skyrocketed. often we had sex and also my penis size. work in the NHS, otherwise they shouldn’t
I started falling asleep within about ten I thought it was something that I could be doing it. But let’s face it, the standard
minutes. My brother saw the same thing.” fix either with surgery or supplements. GP appointment is about eight minutes.
Kennett is highly sceptical of the A lot of boys my age think that way. The We take an hour and a half and the
standard NHS response to testosterone gym is where you develop this mindset outcomes speak for themselves.”
deficiency. Many GPs, he claims, are that says, ‘You should be shagging all Michael Douglas sounds perky. After
dismissive of men’s concerns. They assume night, so do what you need to do to make we speak, once he and McCall finish
they are bodybuilders wanting to build it happen.’ ” filming, they plan to go out to dinner.
muscle and he has heard of some men In the end Joyce opted not to have “Before I got checked out I wouldn’t
being told, “You can grow a beard, so you enlargement surgery after having have wanted to go,” he says. “I’ve got
don’t have low testosterone.” counselling. He now accepts there is my mojo back and, when you get to
It’s also complicated by the fact that nothing wrong with his body or his your fifties, nothing matters more than
many symptoms present as depression performance. “There is so much bullshit being healthy and enjoying your life.
and men are prescribed medication out there, it has been a nightmare talking I say this to all men: the age when we
for low mood instead. “It’s the kind of myself back into the right headspace suffered nobly in silence, then conked
response that women used to hear when again,” he says. out with a heart attack, is gone. Get
trying to get HRT,” he says. Speaking anonymously, one GP told yourself checked out.” n
T
to raise a child. “A vineyard, IN GREAT SPIRITS, and decent anti-Müllerian hormone score
more like,” jokes Eddie. He
and his partner, Jack, are the WE ORDERED A HOME (which can be indicative of egg quality) for
someone my age. She said there was no
fathers of my baby, Sid, and
we’re having family lunch
INSEMINATION KIT ON reason we wouldn’t get pregnant easily. In
great spirits, we ordered some ovulation
for the first time in our new
kitchen in east London. Warm
AMAZON FOR £23.99 sticks and a home insemination kit from
Amazon for £23.99. The accompanying
bread and crisp rosé are laid leaflet recommended lying with your legs
out on our recently installed “would drive to deliver”. I cried over wine. up and watching a funny film or getting
pink and gold flecked terrazzo worktop. I made a free account at Cryos International your partner to cuddle you, thus releasing
Meanwhile, our son has somehow got the – the world’s largest sperm bank, based in pregnancy-inducing feel-good endorphins.
lid off a jar of peanut butter and has his Denmark, where prices for sperm begin So there we lay after injecting a syringe
little fist inside. at around £160. I paid an additional £200 of sperm: three of us, my legs up, watching
Sid will turn one in a few weeks and or so to see donors’ “extended profiles”. The Big Lebowski, while Jack stroked my
we are basking in the joy of our modern Here you can listen to voice recordings arm. Why wouldn’t I be pregnant? Nothing
family after combining our assets to and favour certain people with a red heart happened. We tried again the next month.
turn a neglected former council house icon. It felt like internet dating all over And the month after that. Nothing.
on the fringes of Hackney into a home. again. And I knew I wanted to have a The mood shifted and we decided
Sid and I have the top floor, with a spare special bond with the father of my baby on IVF. Google informed me that even
room for visiting grannies; the boys have and for my baby to have a special bond 40-year-old straight couples regularly
their own space, including a bathroom with that person too. In the past I’d joked copulating are unlikely to get pregnant
and a grown-up sitting room; and the with various gay friends that, “If I haven’t within a year and IVF has only about a
downstairs is a big open-plan family space met someone by the time I’m 40, let’s…” 10 per cent success rate for a woman at
with a (wipeable) mint green floor. One of those friends telling me that he this age. But, I reasoned, they were not
Not that it is always easy. We are three was having a baby with someone else was reflective of our situation. Most couples
fortysomething adults with our own way my catalyst for action. So I took a deep having IVF had fertility problems. We were
of doing things. We share much – a love of breath and emailed Eddie. doing IVF because we couldn’t have sex.
food, travel, hosting, family, music and, of I had no idea if he’d say yes, whether As we weren’t entitled to treatment
course, Sid – but it’s the small things we he’d want to be a donor or a dad, but on the NHS, we looked at private clinics
trip on. Like, what time to eat: I prefer to I knew he’d be a great role model. I chose where costs soon spiral into tens of
eat early with Sid and then do his bedtime; to overlook the fact that he lived in the thousands. At one of these I discovered
they prefer to feed Sid and eat afterwards. Philippines for six months of the year and I had adenomyosis and that could
Or which drawer the cheese grater should had Jack to consider. I wrote to Eddie that also affect the chances of an embryo
live in. I am the primary caregiver and I didn’t know how involved he would want implanting. They recommended an MRI
take the lead on day-to-day decisions to be as a father, but it was important to scan. More money. More time. At another
regarding Sid, but they have two voices me that my child had an origin story and consultation with a clinic in Denmark that
that must be heard, which can at times be I would like someone with whom to share specialised in treating single women we
difficult to navigate. Eddie and Jack have the experience. I couldn’t believe it when were told that as Eddie wasn’t my partner,
been a couple for 20 years and they even he wrote back saying yes. “Jack and I have his sperm would have to be quarantined
share a language that I do not speak: already been talking about a new direction for three to six months at a cost of more
Tagalog. Eddie is Filipino and the boys for our life with children. But we felt that than £1,000. Furthermore, as a known
run a business in the Philippines. It’s been while a child can get full love and care from donor rather than my partner, Eddie would
a huge sacrifice for them, moving their two male parents, it’s more fulfilling to be not legally be considered the child’s father.
lives from a paradisiacal island there a supporting father to a child that has the We decided to say we were a
to a shabby council estate here. Every love of their mother. I would love to be couple from now on and found a highly
time I look out at another wet summer part of your life decision and want to be recommended clinic in eastern Europe
day, I worry this won’t work out. involved in any possible way. I will support where IVF was a third of the cost in
It was back in 2020 that I summoned whatever you need from the start.” the UK. It was only once we were there
the courage to ask Eddie, one of my oldest We didn’t enter the arrangement signing papers that I read the small print
friends, if he’d be the father of my child. We lightly. This may sound ludicrously and realised we’d chosen a country where
met working in a restaurant in Edinburgh idealistic, but we worked on separate it was illegal to treat both single women
20 years ago. After university, I moved to manifestos for the future to check we and homosexual couples. Luckily, Jack
London. Eddie met Jack and they moved were on the same page, then went on wasn’t there with us. Filling in the form
to the Philippines where they started holiday, where in between hiking, eating I froze: I couldn’t remember Eddie’s birth
a business taking guests to the remote and swimming, we spent time going over a date. Was he really called Eddie on his
islands of Palawan on traditional bangka co-parenting document downloaded from passport, they asked me. I was convinced
boats. We remained firm friends and a the internet. There is no legal basis to we’d been found out and I’d be thrown
baby wasn’t even a consideration. Then, these kinds of agreements, but it forced us into jail. And so, completely joylessly,
when I was 38, Covid put an end to years to focus on the awkward details – living I began the hardest year of my life,
of unsuccessful dating. For the first time arrangements, finances, childcare, schools, filling myself with hormones derived from
ANDREW CROWLEY/THE TELEGRAPH
I faced up to the very real possibility that life insurance, wills – and felt like a good human urine and Chinese hamster ovary
I’d never have a child. I discovered a hole starting place. “Why don’t all prospective cells. I blamed Eddie for not having to go
inside me. I had so much love to give and parents have to do this?” we joked. (But through this. Jack did my injections (“At
no one to give it to. I felt a real, deep grief. actually, it’s not a joke, is it?) least one of us gets to stick something in
I signed up for a site where you can If this stage was demanding, getting you,” he joked), but I felt so alone.
meet potential donors or co-parents. pregnant turned out to be a journey that We tried two gruelling, crushing
Most of my messages were from men who tested us to the limits. It started out well. – and failed – rounds there, followed
offered “natural insemination only” and We consulted a fertility specialist: Eddie by a third back in a London clinic. After
K
aren Gillan is the nation’s least go to school and be so quiet and so scared
likely superstar. Even after an to talk to anyone because I perceived it
hour in her company, you’d all as a potential threat,” she smiles wryly.
probably never guess she “I’m still like that. Sometimes I’ll be at
is the 21st most successful a dinner party and someone asks me a
leading actor of all time. question and I just go into fight-or-flight
As the damaged semi- mode. I don’t know why it happens. But
android assassin Nebula, for some reason, when I got up in front
she co-starred in the second- of people to act, it just melted away. Some
highest grossing film to people have a few drinks; I get on stage.”
date, Avengers: Endgame. With all her So she spent her spare time making
Marvel movies, the Jumanji franchise and horror films on a video camera in her
appearances in The Big Short, Judd Apatow’s bedroom and her Saturdays at a drama
The Bubble and alongside Tom Hanks club. Then, when she was 13, she was
in The Circle, her roles have amassed a watching Who Wants to Be a Millionaire? With Dwayne Johnson in Jumanji: Welcome to the Jungle
worldwide take of more than $10 billion. with her dad when Judith Keppel became
The only Brits more bankable in the first Brit to win £1 million.
leading roles are Tom Holland and Emma “My dad said, ‘She’s in the right
Watson. At the age of 36, Gillan’s box- headspace. A lot of people need the money
office take outranks that of Harrison Ford, and buckle under the pressure. They won’t
Benedict Cumberbatch, Brad Pitt, Jennifer risk going all the way. You need to live in
Lawrence, Julia Roberts and Sylvester her headspace.’ ” She pauses and smiles at
Stallone. In 2020 and 2021, she was the the memory. “And I have ever since. If you
most googled living Scottish celebrity, want to know how I got here, it’s my dad.
averaging two million searches a month. He made everything seem possible. He’s
This fact seems to surprise even Gillan my Eton, my secret weapon. Raymond
herself. “It just sounds crazy to hear that,” Gillan. Everyone should have one of those.”
she says. “Of course, I still have moments This made her feel so invincible that As Nebula in Guardians of the Galaxy, 2013
of awareness. Mostly you forget that what when she was 17 she moved to London
you’re doing is going out into the world to study at the Italia Conti drama school,
because it’s just your job. Humans adapt dropped out after two months for a part in
really quickly, right? But then you go to a Rebus, then ended up working in a pub in
premiere and they’ve shut down Hollywood south London and doing a little modelling.
Boulevard and you’re like, oh, yes, this is She was still convinced she could make
LONDON. GILLAN WEARS COAT, MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION (MICHAELKORS.COM). EARRINGS, DINOSAURDESIGNS.CO.UK. SUNGLASSES, GIVENCHY.COM
a really big deal.” it. Even when, for one modelling job, she
But sitting in a quiet basement in a had to wear a bucket over her head as the
PREVIOUS SPREAD: SALLY MAIS/ITV. MAKE-UP: KELLY CORNWELL AT A-FRAME USING ARMANI. HAIR: MIGUEL PÉREZ AT A-FRAME USING MONPURE
photo studio in north London, it feels client thought it would make sure people
like I’m talking to… well, a working-class focused on the shoes she was wearing.
girl from Inverness who is bright, bubbly
and brimming with as many questions as
answers. She landed from the West Coast ‘I’LL BE AT A DINNER PARTY AND
of America barely 48 hours ago and has
been working since she stepped off the GO INTO FIGHT-OR-FLIGHT MODE’
plane. She must be exhausted, but she’s
upbeat, charming and curious during the I tell her I’m having trouble making property. She went from pulling pints
shoot, recommending clothes and eagerly sense of her extreme confidence in and modelling with her head in a bucket
asking everyone for tips on plays and heading to London to seek her fortune to being recognised on the streets and
musicals she should see while she’s here. versus her terror of speaking to fellow mobbed at San Diego’s Comic-Con. “I was
I think I see her yawn once, but it might pupils. “I know, I often think about that,” used to being a normal 21-year-old getting
just be her laughing. She laughs a lot. she says. “Imagine a flight attendant with drunk with my friends and suddenly there
Now the pictures are done, she settles a phobia of flying who loves being in the were photographers following me around,”
into a chair opposite me, pulling a large air. I got over those nerves by forcing she explains. “I had to be careful or going
black coat over her tracksuit because the myself to do it over and over again. I’m to the pub would end up being a story
air conditioning is a little brutal. While I’m not as confident as I was back then. I’m that I was going off the rails. I’d wanted
fumbling with my Dictaphone she chats always comparing myself with my 17-year- to be a success, but Doctor Who is a very
about gossip from Good Morning Britain old self, like, how do I get back there?” particular kind of success. Like, I really
in an accent with no trace of mid-Atlantic Then she was cast as the Doctor’s didn’t expect to have to sign dolls of me.”
twang. Good Morning Britain? “I watch it assistant Amy Pond in Doctor Who and Fortunately, her co-stars Matt Smith and
every day on BritBox,” she says proudly. life became very strange indeed. After Arthur Darvill, who played her on-screen
“It helps me control my homesickness.” she’d got the job, she went back to Inverness husband, Rory, were also newcomers to
Home is written through her like a “with two guys from the BBC, and once celebrity. The three of them felt like a
stick of rock. She grew up on a council they’d told my parents, one of them said gang – friends thrown into the storm.
estate, her mum working in Tesco and something on his phone and within an They’re still close and get together for
her dad working in a care home for people hour there were journalists knocking on drinks whenever they’re in the same city,
with learning difficulties. Money was tight our door”. She still seems slightly amazed. alongside showrunner Steven Moffat, who
but her dad made her believe she was “My mum was on her lunch break from cast Smith and created Pond and Rory.
capable of achieving anything she wanted. Tesco and had to get through the And Moffat is the reason she’s talking
This mattered because Gillan was – journalists to go back to work.” to me. She’s returned to British TV purely
and still is – filled with social anxiety. “I’d After that, Gillan’s life was public because he’s written a script she loves
6
As someone who lost a lot of volume THE SUPER SPRAY
on top during lockdown, I understand Living Proof Full Dry
how fine and thinning hair can wreck Volume & Texture Spray
your self-esteem. I would always (From £16; livingproof.co.uk)
recommend having a blood test to check This is the best volumising dry spray
your nutritional and hormonal levels and bar none. Simply shake the can and
discover the underlying cause of hair loss, spray about 6in from your roots, then
but in the meantime these products can ruffle your fingers through your hair and
make a visible difference. voilà – it doubles in size without stickiness
or having to blow-dry or style. It also adds
1
THE SCIENCE-BACKED oomph for updos and post-gym days.
SOLUTION
7
Regaine for Women THE MAGICAL MOUSSE
Extra Strength Scalp Color Wow Xtra Large
Foam (£50 for a four-month Bombshell Volumizer
supply; boots.com) (£24; uk.colorwowhair.com)
This is the best product Hairstylists will tell you that
you can buy over the nothing volumises during blow-
counter, clinically proven drying better than a mousse, but
to work for women with hormonal hair we tend to think of them as old-
loss by increasing blood flow to follicles school and sticky. Well, not this
and helping them to stay in the growing one. This foam adds oomph and holding
phase for longer. Foam is the easiest way power to hair but leaves it easy to brush
to apply it – once a day, morning or night. and comb; nor does it feel tacky to touch.
Do shop around for the best price because
8
once you start using Regaine, you will THE SCALP SOLUTION
need to keep using it or your hair goes RevitaLash Volume Enhancing
Margot Robbie
back to its old shedding pattern. Foam (£125; spacenk.com)
A prostaglandin analogue applied
2
THE SHAMPOO WITH ADDED BENEFITS
4
THE PARTING POWER-UP to the scalp can help extend the life
Head & Shoulders DermaxPro Nanogen Keratin Hair cycle of your hair, allowing it to grow
Scalp Care Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Fibres (£24 for a two- for longer. RevitaLash has cornered
(£5.99; superdrug.com) month supply; boots.com) the market in lash-growth serums and
Recent research has shown that dandruff This clever powder now it has supersized the formula and
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compromise growth, so choose mimic hair growth on the apply to the scalp. Expensive, but worth
a shampoo like this one to scalp to instantly shrink a try if you have excessive hair shedding.
help tackle the problem at the wide partings and fill out thinning
9
earliest possible stage. The active hairlines and crowns. Yes, it is purely THE WEIGHTLESS CONDITIONER
ingredient, piroctone olamine, cosmetic and won’t help with regrowth, TreSemmé 1 Minute Wow!
works wonders on my itchy, flaky but the effect is impressive. Plus it comes Repair Intensive Treatment
scalp and you get great value for in a handy shaker applicator and there are (£4.99; boots.com)
money with this range. ten shades to choose from. There is also Biotin is a vitamin – B7 – that
a waterproofing spray if you need it. few of us are deficient in, but
3
THE CAFFEINE ‘CURE’ brands love to pop it into products
5
The Inkey List Caffeine THE VOLUMISER formulated for fine hair. That said, this is
Stimulating Scalp Treatment Vichy Dercos Technique a brilliant budget conditioner. It helps to
(£15; lookfantastic.com) Densi-Solutions Thickening smooth, detangle and add shine without
There is some evidence that Shampoo (£12.50; boots.com) weighing down fine and thinning hair.
caffeine can block the effect This contains a blend of sugars to
10
of a hormone called DHT in instantly volumise, and a silica-like THE PUNCHY POWDER
scalp cells, which can cause hair gel that bonds to damaged and VO5 Matt Finish Thickening
loss. The trouble is that most fine hair to make it feel and Powder (£3.33; boots.com)
caffeine shampoos are washed look thicker over time. It’s Hair powders work to absorb sebum
ELISABETH HOFF, GETTY IMAGES
away, so this savvy company recommended that you use from the scalp and coat your roots to
has formulated a sleep-in scalp it every day, which I know give grip to hair. They also separate
serum. While I am yet to be might be a problem if you’re strands to give a thicker appearance.
convinced of its effectiveness in female suffering hair shedding, but This is essentially the effect of dry
hair loss, I think at this price point it is with this special shampoo you shampoo, but the modern formulations
well worth a try and could help with will keep your scalp healthy come as dab-on scalp powders. This one
menopausal hair thinning. and get a volume boost. from VO5 is the best value around.
8
THE MATTE MASTER
1
THE BEST FOR DRY LIPS Avon Ultra Matte Lipstick
The Ordinary in Au Naturale (£8.50;
Squalane + Amino superdrug.com)
Acids Lip Balm Matte can be a hard look to carry
(£8.50; theordinary.com) off, but choose the right shade (and
This has been formulated do not spend a fortune) and you
to mimic the natural moisturising factors can achieve the ideal finish, colour
in healthy lips – in other words, to put and feel on your lips without drying
back what’s missing in dry, cracked or them out or breaking the bank. This range
dehydrated lips. It’s long-lasting, comes in from Avon is now available at Superdrug
a clever, squeezy round tube with a twist- and has some great shades that perform
off lid and works wonders. It should last like a really high-end brand.
you all summer and is perfect for planes,
trains, holidays and beyond. What’s more,
there’s zero stickiness.
2 9
THE SUPERCHIC TINT THE WATERPROOF WONDER
Naturium Phyto-Glow Refy Lip Sculpt (£18, in seven
Lip Balm in Latte shades; refybeauty.com)
(£12, in nine shades; spacenk.com) Having mastered brows, Refy has now
This glossy tinted balm has been moved on to lips, creating long-lasting
Zendaya
such a success that it now comes products that are a genuine pleasure to
in four new Café Collection shades wear. This is a unique product: it contains
5
– Mocha, Spice, Chai and Latte THE EASIEST LIP SPF a lip liner and a sealant that locks the
are perfect for darker complexions. Hello Sunday The One For colour in place. This makes it great for
They all work as lip glosses, but rather Your Lips SPF50 Lip Balm long days in the sun at the beach, by the
than simply coating the lips they are (£7; spacenk.com) pool or sweaty sightseeing.
delightfully nourishing as well. I don’t believe that SPF should be
sold at a premium and this is by
3
THE CULT LIP OIL far the best value at Space NK. It
10
Clinique Pop is unscented, so suitable for even THE LINE ERASER
Lip + Cheek Oil sun-sensitive lips. It has a glossy MAC Prep + Prime Lip
in Black Honey clear finish and stays put. (£22; maccosmetics.co.uk)
(£23.50; clinique.co.uk) This is not a new product, but it is still
The cult Black Honey brilliant. It is a waxy lip primer that blurs
lipstick now comes in a lines both on and around the lips, feels
6
must-have oil (tinted lip THE LIP LINER/STICK DUO comfortable and works on its own or
oils have taken over in 2024; they are Sculpted by Aimee Connolly Lip under lip colour. Great at hiding what are
everywhere). This is light enough for Duo Liner & Lipstick in Blush Blend known as “smoker’s lines” but actually
lips and cheeks (ie not too oily), and (£18, in eight shades; boots.com) have very little to do with the habit,
the flattering blackcurrant juice shade This clever single product contains a soft and are more about lip movement from
genuinely does suit everyone. liner and matching lip colour so you never speaking and sun damage. n
get that “Jenny from the block” old-school
4
THE POWER POWDER darker liner look. They have been chosen Find @nadinebaggott on Instagram and
Ciaté London Velvet to be very wearable; there’s nothing garish, YouTube where she answers all your
Cloud Weightless Lip but this nude shade is a standout low- beauty questions
Shadow (£18, in three shades; maintenance winner for me.
ciatelondon.com)
7
Yes, you read that right, THE PERFECT SUMMER SHADE
a lip powder. If you absolutely hate the Nars Afterglow Sensual Shine
sticky, glossy feel of most balms, this is Lipstick in Truth or Dare
the product for you. A weightless, creamy (£27; narscosmetics.co.uk)
powder that adds a blush of colour to lips A summer lipstick should be applied
and feels truly like you’re wearing nothing. without a mirror, ideally on the run
Very Bridgerton and very beautiful. to somewhere you are going to have
M
y word, you chaps don’t And I’ve been replying to all of them,
leave it alone, do you? Months “It’s the Bear Inn! It’s the Bear bloody
ago, literally months, I was Inn in Hodnet! It’s fine, it’s totally fine.
rambling away on this page There was some asparagus and a nice
about the restaurants I had bit of ox cheek and our waitress was
been to recently that I planned absolutely brilliant but I have at least
to write up in the coming six pubs within a ten-minute walk of
weeks, such as “a good pub in my London front door where I can eat
Shropshire… a new Guizhou/Sichuan place better, so I’m struggling to summon up
in Bloomsbury and a small restaurant the enthusiasm. But if you’re nearby, go.
inside a fishmonger in north London…” I don’t know your standards; it may be the
and then I got on with the restaurant in best meal you’ll ever have.”
hand (I think it was Oma) and gave these And then things went quiet for a
others no further thought. few days. And I had time to reflect on
The following week, I wrote about how flattering it is that people read my
the Chinese, and dozens of you below reviews and pay such close attention
the line yodelled, “What about the pub and remember the details for all time.
in Shropshire?” and I replied, “Yeah, yeah, And I resolved to be more careful in
I’ll get round to it,” and thought no more future. But then yesterday, a big A4
about it. envelope arrived from The Times
And the following week I reviewed full of readers’ letters, which only get
the restaurant in the fishmonger and bagged up and posted every few weeks.
below the line there were still half a dozen I picked one up at random, a pale blue
of you going, “What about the pub in sheet of paper, covered in careful, spidery
Shropshire?” and I sort of half came clean handwriting that began, “Dear Mr Coren,
and said, “Look, it wasn’t all that amazing Some weeks ago you mentioned a pub
and I’ve kind of forgotten the details of it in Shropshire…”
now, but it’s the Bear in Hodnet. If you’re And I screamed aloud at the ceiling.
local, go, have a pint of Shropshire Gold, And then I opened the others. And
avoid the hispi cabbage.” they were ALL asking about the pub
TOM JACKSON
But then, the week after that, there in Shropshire that I had promised to
were STILL readers going, “What about write about. And if I don’t write about
the pub in Shropshire?” and I was getting it, I realised, this will never stop. So, my
© Times Media Limited, 2024. Published and licensed by Times Media Limited, 1 London Bridge Street, London SE1 9GF (020 7782 5000). Printed by Walstead Bicester Ltd, Oxfordshire. Not to be sold separately.
our holiday begins in Witness the Dutch colonial Scan the QR code with