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29.06.

24
MAN
UP!
No libido,
no problemo:
inside the
testosterone
clinic

‘THE CLOCK
IS TICKING.
I WANT
A BABY
BUT WORK
CALLS’ CAITLIN
Nicole Scherzinger
What I’ve learnt at 46 MORAN
By Andrew Billen All the prime
ministers
I have known
29.06.24
MEN AND THE MANOPAUSE
Inside the testosterone clinic

46 28

6 Caitlin Moran Election special: my eventful encounters with prime ministers (and some wannabes). 11 What I’ve learnt
Kiefer Sutherland on regrets and his relationship with his late father, Donald. 14 Cover story Nicole Scherzinger The former
Pussycat Doll on fame, men and winning an Olivier award for Sunset Boulevard. 20 The day I found my brother’s body The
tragedy behind satirist Jon Harvey’s political career as Count Binface. 24 Parodying posh girls (literally) Comedian Henry
Rowley’s TikTok skits have gone viral. 28 Inside the testosterone clinic Meet the GP who specialises in low libidos
– and the male patients he helps. 31 Eat! Mediterranean dishes by Ben Tish. 42 Our very modern family How baby Sid
came to have one mum and two dads. 46 Karen Gillan The working-class Inverness girl who became one of the world’s
most successful movie stars. 50 Pout! The best buys for fine hair. 52 Giles Coren reviews Julie’s, London W11. 60 Beta male:
Robert Crampton Take it from me: things are only getting better. Melanie Reid is away

FAB FIVE: MINI PROJECTORS


COVER: ROBERT WILSON. THIS PAGE: EVA PENTEL, TIM JOBLING

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The Times Magazine 5


CAITLIN MORAN ELECTION SPECIAL

‘LET’S JUST SAY,


MY INTERACTIONS
WITH POLITICIANS
HAVE RARELY
ENDED WELL’
Our columnist up close with prime ministers and several wannabes
t’s the general election next “The left-wingers will be celebrating,

I
week, which I presume by now the right-wingers commiserating,
you know. They’ve not really and the Reform voters never stopped
kept it a secret. drinking anyway.”
Depending on your level For myself, I enjoy election night
of political nerdery, you may even more than I used to, as my job
already be thigh-deep in big means that when I see a politician on the
party plans. General election television, often I have actually met them.
night is like the Euros final This lends an extra frisson to the whole
for people who listen to Today thing – like when you’re watching a travel
on Radio 4, so you might even now be programme and they go to the exact
rearranging the sofas in the living room beach in Wales you’ve been to. Or you’re
around the TV, stashing crates of booze in watching Crufts and have patted specific
the garden and working out what games spaniels and schnauzers.
to play to while away the hours between “Oh, that one was really friendly,”
“10pm”, when the polls close, and you might say. Or, “That one literally
“anything actually happening”, when the was a bitch.”
first results start to come in about 2am. I have to say, my interactions with
For those on the left, “Tory Wipeout politicians have rarely ended well. Usually
Bingo Cards” are available online. for me but sometimes for them too.
These allow you to apply your dabber I recently bumped into Ed Balls in
throughout the night to a grid of marginal a corridor backstage at Lorraine. He
constituencies and compete with friends informed me unexpectedly that Ed Balls
to be the first to shout, “House! Of Day “was all your fault, Caitlin”.
Commons majority!” “What?” I asked.
If, on the other hand, you dread For those who don’t know about Ed
this election as the potential fall of the Balls Day, presumably because you have
oldest political party in the country and not spent half your existence arsing about
the rise of neo-Trotskyite milquetoasts, on social media, it marks the day in 2011
you will also want to be with friends to – April 28, to be precise – when Balls, then
commiserate with them over this terrible shadow chancellor of the exchequer, tried
series of events. I don’t want to make crass wince at all the slurred “pah pah pahs”. to search X, then Twitter, for a recent
generalisations, but I presume that, in It’s presumed there will be a lot of article about himself but accidentally
your misery, at least you’ll be enjoying drinking happening on Thursday. One tweeted “Ed Balls” instead.
ROBERT WILSON

much better wines than the neighbours person I know who runs a branch of This delightfully innocent Old Man
singing Sweet Caroline in their garden Alcoholics Anonymous says she is Technology Struggle instantly became an
if and when Jacob Rees-Mogg loses his expecting mass relapses on election night iconic meme. Retweeted thousands of
seat. So there is that comfort even as you from all sides of the political spectrum. times and folded into all that week’s

6 The Times Magazine


I ended up running
the last 700m to
10 Downing Street
in heels, which
deeply troubled
my pelvic floor

Caitlin Moran as
Margaret Thatcher,
photographed by
Jude Edginton
topical jokes, its legacy became so
enduring that Balls’ showstopper creation
on The Great Celebrity Bake Off was an DAVID CAMERON KEIR STARMER
“Ed Balls” cake. In 2023, The New York
Times even ran a long and thoughtful
piece on the phenomenon.
Following Ed Balls Day, however,
Balls lost his seat in the 2015 general
election, retired from politics and
gave in to his seemingly inevitable fate:
continuing the vibe of Ed Balls Day by
doing his legendary Gangnam Style on
Strictly Come Dancing.
“I saw some metrics on Ed Balls Day
and you were one of the first people to
retweet it,” he told me in that corridor at
Lorraine. “It was you that kicked the
whole thing off.”
Well, I gasped.
“I’m so sorry,” I said. “Does this mean
there’s a parallel universe out there where
you might have become prime minister
Of all the politicians I’ve met, Starmer reminded me of my
if I hadn’t been pissing around on Twitter
that day?”
he was the rudest by a long husband – a blinking stoicism
He shrugged.
I’m sorry, Ed.
chalk. Possibly because I’d in the face of me and my
If you count “Ed Balls in a parallel
universe” – which, obviously, I do – I’ve
compared his face to a ham friends being hammered
now met four of our prime ministers.
Actually five, if Keir Starmer wins on
Thursday. I have to say, David Cameron educations are. Eton is sold as the I’d ended up running the last 700m
was the rudest by a long chalk. Perhaps etiquette boot camp for posh people to No 10 in heels, which had both deeply
he knew of my potential-prime minister to deal with irascible peasants, such troubled my pelvic floor and triggered
slaying powers and wanted to shut as myself, with a breezy air of amused a sweaty armpit situation so serious,
me down fast. Crush me before I could patronage. Cameron’s descent into a full- I actually had to throw away the cardigan
crush him. on drive-by “f*** you” was a more, to be when I got home. It smelt, simply, of fear.
Can’t lie – it worked. brisk, Wolverhampton way of dealing with Anyway, Brown was very nice,
I was at a party with Giles Coren, things. It was on the lower end of a scale even when I referred to Bill Clinton
mucking about with the cheese buffet, of responses that, at their peak, end as “Old Big Dog”, commented on the
when Cameron, then leader of the with people pulling at each other’s hair president’s recent weight loss and started
opposition, made eye contact with extensions in car parks. In a way, I give riffing on how he was still “pretty hot”,
us and started to move towards us. him respect. I suspect I would have been only for Brown to reply, with an anxious
I felt a measure of alarm at this as, just that petty too. adherence to the facts, “Well, he’s been
months previously, I’d written a column The man he was about to supersede, terribly ill recently, Caitlin. That’s why
in which I’d referred to Cameron’s pinkly Gordon Brown, was much more courteous. he’s lost all the weight.”
peevish demeanour as being redolent of I interviewed him in Downing Street in My conclusion: Gordon Brown
“a camp gammon robot… a C-3PO made his last year in power and he was very – very polite to sweaty journalists but
of ham”, and the phrase had kind of… understanding about the terribly anxious unable to engage in lubricious Girls
caught on. I’d attended another party for state I was in. Due to a series of Clockwise- Night Out banter.
which someone had actually made a David style misfortunes, I was 20 minutes late: Keir Starmer – oh dear. At this point
Cameron out of ham, which is one of the my printer had broken down, I’d missed in 2024, if you have a story about meeting
more extraordinary things I’ve seen. Or my train, a taxi took ages to arrive and, Starmer at a party in 2019, before he
eaten. I consumed fully half of Cameron’s when it did, it was a battered camper van became the leader of the Labour Party,
delicious piggy, crumbed face. that looked exactly like the one the Libyan this is the moment when your tale has
So as Cameron reached Giles and me, terrorists drive in Back to the Future. This its greatest value. If he becomes prime
I gave him a nervous “the cut and thrust was the van in which I would be arriving minister – after first turning around
of politics, huh!” smile. at Downing Street, in one of the most a Labour Party that was on its knees
Smiling back, still looking me right in heavily policed areas in Britain. and then masterminding what looks
the eye, Cameron replied, “I do so enjoy Except when I got in the van, it turned to be a historic landslide victory – then
reading your columns… Giles,” then out that the driver didn’t know where everyone is going to want to know: what
inserted himself between us, turned his Downing Street was. I was furiously was he like? Could you tell he was a man
back on me and shook Giles’s hand. It was incredulous about this – IT’S 10 of destiny even then? At a party, does
a total freeze-out. He did not turn round DOWNING STREET! ONE OF THE he just finally let go, knock back the
to address me once. In the end, it was so MOST FAMOUS ADDRESSES IN THE spicy margs and then start playing that
GETTY IMAGES

rude I had to walk away, giggling. WORLD! – until I realised that I too didn’t game where you gaffer-tape stacks of
At the time, I remember marvelling really know where Downing Street was. cider tins to your hands while shouting,
at how misrepresented public school Near the Strand? “I’m a wizard”?

8 The Times Magazine


usually come to this kind of event. While
Cheryl Cole was dressed in a sexy silver
THERESA MAY GORDON BROWN nothing and Claudia Winkleman was
in a cool tuxedo, Jo’s mum was in a black
strapless taffeta dress in which she looked
profoundly uncomfortable and was
carrying a massive handbag that looked
like a patent-leather haggis.
“I will be exquisitely kind to this lonely,
jarringly dressed lady who knows no one
else in the room,” I thought nobly.
Now, I don’t mean to boast, but
I’m usually rather good at general chat.
I can riff on pretty much anything.
However, after 20 minutes I admit
I was feeling somewhat dry. Fashion,
music, literature… Jo’s mum just wasn’t
biting. In the end we found a fertile place
conversationally: whether there was,
when you really thought about it, any
Brown was polite material difference between Ocado and
Waitrose online. We gave that a solid five
– even when I arrived very minutes before triumphantly concluding
that, no, there wasn’t.
late, with a serious sweaty Just when we were about to get
into the nitty-gritty of the obvious next
armpit situation step – when would M&S Food cave in to
pressure and start home deliveries too?
– the awards’ host for the night, James
Corden, took to the mic.
that he reminded me of my husband, “And now, ladies and gentlemen,” he
manifesting a slightly blinking stoicism said, scanning the audience, “will you
in the face of so many women being welcome to the stage to present the next
so hammered with the reassuring award – home secretary Theresa May.”
undercurrent that, yes, he would drive us At which point, Jo’s mum stood up
all home if we couldn’t get an Uber, as and walked to the stage. She wasn’t Jo’s
long as we promised in advance to be sick mum at all. She was home secretary
out of the window. Theresa May.
The one moment he really sprang into So that’s my round-up of prime
life conversationally was when the gossip ministers – past, potential and only
turned to a prominent figure’s recent possible in alternate realities. To be
drug problem. Eschewing everyone else’s honest, as I’ve been writing this it’s
salacious tone, he delivered a concise and made me realise what a bloody awful job
informative primer on the difference it is being a senior politician. Too many
between class A and class B drug people know who you are – or in the
possession in terms of sentencing, which case of Theresa May, don’t. People are
seemed miraculous at the time as he constantly being bitchy about your very
was the only person able to talk without pink face or else they’re watching you at
slurring or resting their head on the table parties to see if you get drunk.
We chatted about Ocado – until and moaning, “I am so wasted.”
Finally – well, the last one is my
You, meanwhile, are watching yourself
to avoid any jokes that make it look as
I realised (too late) that I’d favourite. In 2010, I attended the Glamour
magazine awards, the much missed A-list
if you fancy Bill Clinton, or else you’re
living with the knowledge that you can
mistaken her for my mate’s mum lady booze-up held in a tent in Berkeley
Square in London. When I arrived,
unthinkingly press “send” on the wrong
tweet and end up at the mercy of millions.
I realised that the invitation had bestowed So as Thursday night turns into Friday
upon me a great honour – perhaps the morning, I’d like to hope we can all take
Unfortunately, everyone at the party greatest honour of all. For the editor, Jo a moment to feel compassion towards
– except Starmer – got so drunk I can Elvin, had not only put me on her table all those – past and present – who
barely remember anything about it, other but next to her silver-haired old mother. throw their hat in the ring for one of the
than that a) the whole wizard thing “Jo must really trust me to be All toughest jobs in the world. Let us for a
absolutely didn’t happen, and b) many of Things To All People chat-wise,” I thought brief minute feel a deep empathy and love
us, clearly political visionaries, repeatedly as I sat next to Ma Elvin. “And I will not for all our leaders.
and firmly told Starmer that Jess Phillips break that trust. Lady, prepare to enter a Or, at the very least, sing Sweet Caroline
was going to be the next Labour leader conversational Eden.” in a more poignant minor key before using
– “It’s obvious!” – while he smiled politely. I was all the more keen to put Jo’s mum the recycling bin as a kettledrum and
My abiding impression of him was at ease because it was obvious she didn’t bashing it with sticks. n

The Times Magazine 9


What I’ve learnt Kiefer Sutherland
Actor Kiefer Sutherland, 57, was INTERVIEW Georgina Roberts
born in London and raised in
Canada by his mother. His father
was the actor Donald Sutherland, I took the films that I did in my
who died last week. He won an twenties for granted. For the
Emmy and a Golden Globe for his first ten years of my career,
role as Jack Bauer in the series 24. everything was going well.
He has also released three albums. Then all of a sudden, the
He lives with his partner in Los opportunities went away. It
Angeles and has an adult daughter was devastating. I was forced to
from his first marriage. make a decision: I could either
make a bunch of bad films, or
Me and my dad really got to I could stop for a little while
know each other after I left until I got something I wanted
home at 15. My parents split to do. So I took some time off.
when I was three and my mum, I roped and rodeo-ed for ten
sister and I moved to Canada, years. I had a small farm in
so I didn’t live with my dad. Montana. I absolutely adored
I would see him at Christmas roping. Then 24 happened and
and for a couple of weeks in I became immersed in that for
the summer. I certainly did see another decade.
him, but it was really relegated Prison is designed to make you
to around holidays. not want to go back. [He has
I have to believe that having been to prison three times
the same surname as my dad – the most recent was a 48-day
has helped me at times. There sentence for drink-driving in
must have been moments where 2007.] I had plenty of time to
people who were friendly with think about what had landed
my dad leant towards helping me there. I was very cross with
me. But I know of two specific myself with regards to the poor
instances where someone was decisions that I was making.
not friendly with my dad and Then I realised, you can’t beat
I sat in the office for four hours yourself up for ever. At some
and never got the meeting. point you have to move on
I was in a hurry to grow up. and forgive yourself.
I certainly wish I hadn’t taken My tattoos are like diary entries.
the car [he stole a car when he I have more than 15 and usually
was a teenager]. That was just get something on a tour.
me wanting to drive and feel Greggs is popular with Yanks
older. There are things I wish and Canadians. I like a sausage
I had done differently, but I’m roll. My band is from the States
grateful for some of the things and, when we first toured here,
I had the courage to do. When PORTRAIT Dean Chalkley the first stop they would make
I left home it was the first time before we even got to the hotel
that teenagers were playing would be a Greggs. I think
teenagers on screen, so I did some of them only did the
that at the right time. ‘I do believe that having the same tour because they knew they
I regret eating a goldfish on were going to get a Greggs.
a dare from Kevin Bacon. surname as my dad has helped me’ Our first tour was more than
We were shooting the film terrifying. I kept thinking my
Flatliners. The three remaining work as an actor was going
fish looked at me and would that there were weapons being In the Eighties, if Robert Downey to benefit me, but I’m not
scatter any time I got near the exchanged, which proved not Jr got a good script but was playing a character when
aquarium. I didn’t realise that to be true, of course. busy, he would tell me about it. I have a guitar. I wrote these
when you swallow something I remember thinking, “I wish And vice versa. It was an songs and they’re stories about
your whole throat constricts, they just had a pill for food.” exciting time. Sarah Jessica my life. You’re opening yourself
so you can hear the back break. I had a very limited palate in Parker was his girlfriend. Billy up in a very personal way.
My mother was very politically my twenties. I ate food just Zane lived in an apartment I don’t worry about whisky
active. She worked with the as a necessity, mainly because across the way. We all helped hurting my vocal cords. Being
DEAN CHALKLEY/CAMERA PRESS

Black Panther Party [which I was very busy and having to each other through things. able to share a drink with a
called for the arming of all eat three meals a day seemed When my daughter was born, great old friend really tells me
African Americans] and like a waste of time. I managed I realised how unprepared I was. I’m not at work any more. n
was organising a breakfast to live on chicken breast with She was so small that I was
programme so children could vegetables for about a decade. scared to hold her. I realised Kiefer Sutherland’s premium
get fed before they went to Learning to cook has opened that being a father was not a Canadian whisky, Red Bank, is on
school. There were rumours up food for me. lark; it was a real responsibility. sale at masterofmalt.com (£40.67)

The Times Magazine 11


‘I’ve taken risks in relationships.
I’m a co-dependent type’
Nicole Scherzinger, 46, is the
former Pussycat Doll who
dated Lewis Hamilton. Now
an award-winning role in
Sunset Boulevard has
changed her life. Both
professionally and privately.
Andrew Billen meets her

‘I do things on my own terms now.


People don’t tell me what to do’

Photographed by
Robert Wilson.
Styling: Hannah
Rogers. This page:
clothes by Dolce
& Gabbana.
Opposite: top,
Dolce & Gabbana;
trousers, Schiaparelli
With the Pussycat Dolls in the early Noughties

O
nce she was a pussycat, have him living/ She’ll take him dead”) but
a doll, a Pussycat Doll. Now Aretha Franklin’s Respect (“I got to have/
Nicole Scherzinger, after four A little respect”). And in fact, among the
months at the Savoy Theatre anthems and Pussycat Dolls numbers, she
in London at the end of last will be singing Screamin’ Jay Hawkins’
year, is and may for ever terrifying I Put a Spell on You (“Because
remain Norma Desmond. you’re mine”).
Her incarnation of the crazed, But this is a musing too far for her.
tragic, fallen movie star at the “I can tell you haven’t watched it
unstable centre of Andrew [the musical’s revival],” Scherzinger scolds
Lloyd Webber’s 1991 musical Sunset me. “Norma’s not a diva. That’s the old
Boulevard has all but obliterated memories perception – her being this deranged,
of those who played her before, from Faith crazy, grasping woman. Our take on this
Brown in Plymouth to Glenn Close on story is a lot different. She’s not a diva. She
Broadway. With a best actress Olivier knows what she wants and she works very
award packed in her actual or mental hard for what she wants and she has so
luggage, this autumn she will head for much left to give – her career was just cut
Broadway herself and spend nine months short and she was dismissed and that’s
doing it all again. difficult for her. Rejection and loneliness
And I mean “all”. Director Jamie and emptiness are what she battles with,
Lloyd’s apparently bizarre decision to and not being able to fulfil her dream. So
cast a beautiful 46-year-old pop icon as that doesn’t sound like a diva to me.”
a decrepit former silent film star proved Although I get that her reinterpreted
unexpectedly insightful, not only into Norma is not past it or deluded, merely more realistic peers by telling professors
what Desmond represents as a woman in angry that while still in her powers she her ambition was to get to Broadway. And
showbusiness but into Scherzinger herself. has been faddishly neglected, my not now, I say, here she comes.
True, the American singer was far from having caught the new Sunset is not “Yes, many years later. I would have
a forgotten recluse haunting her own Los a problem we easily surmount in this been probably 19, 18, 17 when I said that.”
Angeles mansion/luxurious London rental. interview. Scherzinger is full of regret And the ambition was to perform
But Scherzinger’s career did appear to be and I am full of remorse. musical theatre rather than anything else?
on a one-way trajectory, from raunchy As to whether Scherzinger might “Well, from the time I was six I loved
pop idol whose hits, including Don’t Cha turn out to be a diva herself, having Whitney Houston, so part of me wanted
(“…wish your girlfriend was hot like me”), interviewed Lauren Bacall, Anita Ekberg to be like Whitney, right? But then the
became part of the soundtrack to the and Dame Joan Collins, I am prepared other part of me… I’ve just always felt
Noughties, to talent show panellist. Before for the possibility. Before I get to the really at home on stage and in a theatre.”
seeing her in Sunset, audiences would not studio I receive messages that she is late, It’s interesting, I say. Introverted actors
have been likely to make the comparison, but she soon turns up so I reckon we I have spoken to have also talked about
but Scherzinger did as soon as she read are just dealing with standard celebrity being “at home” on stage.
the script. So loudly did Norma speak to deviation. When I arrive, the shoot is still “I think I was always an introvert.
her, so obviously did their demons pelt going on. To be frank, I have heard more I still am in a lot of ways,” she says.
from the same regions of hell, that the laughter at such sessions. This one ends “I couldn’t care less to go on a red
role became her therapy. cordially with a handshake. carpet or to an after-party. I feel more
“It’s changed me in so many ways,” What does not discourage me, however, comfortable in my skin when I’m on stage.
she says one lunch hour in an east is that she has prepped for our interview. It’s kind of weird.”
London photo studio. “It’s grown me. It’s Sometimes publicists ask for examples She felt uncomfortable as a child
evolved me. I’ve had to let go of a lot of of the questions we intend to ask their because she felt different. Although from
insecurities and any comforts that I had. client, but in practice, I doubt the client the age of six she was brought up in
And in a lot of ways, it’s healed me. It’s even looks at them. Not so Scherzinger, Kentucky, she had been born in Hawaii
been an amazing healing process.” who has thought through her replies to a Hawaiian mother of Ukrainian
What were those insecurities? and made notes and, when we get going, descent. Her father, Alfonso Valiente, was
“Norma has insecurities like we all have: asks me to excuse her if she occasionally Filipino. “So I didn’t really look like the
fears of being alone, feeling emptiness, refers to them on her phone, which she other kids in Louisville, in the south.
feeling misunderstood, feeling dismissed.” does. She is taking this seriously, which They were more fair skin and blue eyes,
And she, Scherzinger, had those too? I suspect is the way she treats everything. blonde hair, and I looked a little like a
“Oh, for sure. That’s why I was able to As a panellist on the American version brownie, you know? I was always a bit
connect with the character so much. The of The Masked Singer, for instance, she awkward and shy.”
reason it is a healing process is that I got was known as Sherlock Scherzy for her Her father left the family when she was
to bring all that to the forefront on stage, forensic interrogations of the stars hiding tiny, after which her mother, Rosemary,
night after night, seven shows a week. behind fantastical disguises. Her only dip a clerk, married Gary Scherzinger, a
That was exhausting, but through that in professionalism during our chat is German-American welder. I wonder
process I got to heal some old wounds when, midway through, she asks me my whether that early separation from her
and some of my issues.” name – but that’s fine too. It’s not as if father has affected her.
GETTY IMAGES, MARC BRENNER

The problem, I suggest, is that having it’s ever up in lights. “I don’t know. I was so young.
played this diva to such acclamation, she We are sitting on sofas in a quiet space Obviously I’ve had lots of different outlets
may be mistaken for a diva herself. The next to the studio. I start by quoting from of help and therapy. They say, ‘Oh my
audience at the Henley Festival, where she an old interview in which she recalled gosh, your years from three to eight really
will be appearing for one night only next studying acting – including Stanislavski shape you.’ And I guess he did leave me
month, may be half-expecting her to sing and Shakespeare – at Wright State and my mum when I was three. I’m sure
not only Salome from Sunset (“If she can’t University in Ohio. She would upset her psychologically it contributed to my

16 The Times Magazine


As Norma Desmond in Sunset Boulevard With Lewis Hamilton, 2014
doing. Maybe I didn’t love some of the
clothes I was wearing, but I got to create
a lot of the clothes and say, ‘No, I want
to wear trousers.’ I wanted to look like
will.i.am and Gwen Stefani. So I got to
wear clothes that I felt empowered in and
then the girls got to choose what they
wanted too.”
Although not very many clothes…
“But I tell you we wore a lot more,
I think, than people are wearing today.
With Grigor Dimitrov in London, 2016 The artists, I mean. Like, boy! We’d always
say, ‘We keep it sassy but classy.’ ”
Does she still have body image issues?
“I own me. I’m not in my head now
about my distorted vision of what I look
like or what people will think. I think
that’s the great thing about getting older
– you don’t give a shit as much. I wish
I gave a shit a little more. It would inspire
me to work out a little more.”
She looks as if she works out a lot.
“I’m on and I’m off. I take breaks.”
In 2009 the Dolls undertook a final
‘IT WAS DIFFICULT AT FIRST BECAUSE tour and then announced a “hiatus” that
I DIDN’T FEEL COMFORTABLE IN MY SKIN’ would end up lasting a decade. But surely
there was always a tension between
Scherzinger the putative solo artist, who
abandonment issues. But I grew up with had delivered 95 per cent of the troupe’s
my mother, who got pregnant with me vocals, and the Dolls’ group ethos?
when she was 17 and had me when she “I think everybody is an individual
was 18. Nobody comes from a perfect in the group and, actually, the first person
household, but I grew up in a lot of love, to leave was Kimberly Wyatt. Everybody
so I wouldn’t have had it any other way.” had their own desires and wants, as
Despite her Broadway fixation and individuals do. It’s natural that people
early appearances in local musicals, her want to take that course. I wanted to do
career was quickly hijacked by pop. First, my music. I was still figuring myself out
she dropped out of Wright to tour with as an artist. I still am sometimes.
a rock group called Days of the New. “But now I really want the music
Then, during a successful run on the that I do to make a difference in people’s
talent show Popstars USA, she became part lives. I’m not interested in doing music
of a constructed girl band, Eden’s Crush, any more about how tight my jeans are.
who had a hit single but then disbanded. I’m too old for that shit. It’s fun and all,
In 2003, the choreographer Robin Antin but I’m in a place where everything
recruited her to spearhead a revamped I do now, I want it to have meaning
version of a burlesque troupe called the and purpose.”
Pussycat Dolls. In the following years the She calls the “authentic” and “honest”
new-style Dolls released two albums and With her fiancé, Thom Evans, in 2020
songs she has written more recently her
sold more than 55 million records. “warrior music”. So I ask whom this
“So the Dolls, it was a profoundly Like many young women, Scherzinger warrior was fighting. She immediately
overwhelming experience, right?” she already had body dysmorphia. But her concedes a frequent enemy was herself,
says. “I’m really proud of the music that new career in the Dolls accelerated these because “you get what you tolerate”.
the Dolls made, and I’m very proud of the insecurities into bulimia because of the She won’t talk about her past
little mark that we made with our group. “spotlight” on her body, a body flaunted in boyfriends, who have included the singer
But it was very difficult, because I was bras that advertised both her bosom and Nick Hexum, to whom she was briefly
really learning about myself along the way. her tiny midriff. engaged, and the Swiss footballer Pajtim
“It was such a difficult time, struggling “In the beginning, that was my biggest Kasami. She was also once linked, perhaps
and battling your own demons and issues issue. The other girls were dancers first. So fancifully, to Harry Styles. Her most
and always being on the road, and they as dancers, you dance modern, and when famous former boyfriend, however, was
never allowed sleep in our schedule. you’re in class you’re pretty much dressed Lewis Hamilton, seven years her junior,
I mean, it was just a recipe for disaster, in underwear. A dancer’s body is the whom she met in 2007 when he was 22.
to be honest with you. It’s a lot different instrument; it’s beautiful. That’s the art. During that time she was sometimes
now. They have rules set in place and, But I was a singer first. It was difficult for referred to in newspaper captions
you know, it’s more of a woke community me in the beginning because I didn’t feel simply as the Formula One champion’s
now. But it wasn’t like that when we were comfortable in my skin.” “girlfriend”. Their romance was frequently
doing it. It was just kind of like, ‘Work Did she ever feel that the Pussycat look described as on again/off again, owing to
them to the bone until they’re passed out.’ exploited her? their conflicting work commitments, and
It was just hard for me to sleep. I always “No. I didn’t feel exploited at all ended in 2015. This was reportedly
had sleeping issues.” because I was in control of what I was followed by a relationship with the

The Times Magazine 17


Bulgarian tennis player Grigor Dimitrov. it was “put on hold”. Again Scherzinger got Would she like babies?
“I’ve taken many risks in relationships. the blame, with two of the Dolls, Jessica “Oh my gosh, I would love to. I’ve
I’m quite a co-dependent type and I’m still Sutta and Carmit Bachar, claiming she had never shied away from that. I can’t wait.
learning the meaning of setting boundaries, pulled out without telling them. The Dolls’ It’s like the clock is ticking. I want to have
and taking the risk of leaving unhealthy prime mover, Robin Antin, is presently a baby but work calls. But I’m going to
relationships that weren’t serving me suing her in what appears to be a row have to make time because, yes, I cannot
because I wanted better for myself.” over money. And she is suing back. The wait to have children.”
Because leaving a relationship, even main problem, Scherzinger maintains, Has her mother been pressing her to
a bad one, can be terrifying? was Covid. But also, she is not the Doll get on with it?
“Yes. Like Norma, there’s your fear of two decades ago. “No, because my mother knows
of loneliness. You just want to be wanted “I’ve changed. If you change, the world how hard I work and how passionate
and you want to be loved. Who doesn’t is going to embrace you differently. And I am about what I do. She is a faithful
want to be wanted and want to be loved it stems from you. I had at least ten years woman and she just knows, everything
and cherished?” apart from the Dolls. I had done the work in God’s timing.”
Professionally, the 2010s were years and I had grown and evolved. I thought, Also in abeyance is a wedding date,
too often lost to reality TV shows such well, you know, in this industry everything although the engagement was announced
as The X Factor (on which she was had been on everyone else’s terms and a summer ago. Broadway is in the way
instrumental in the formation of One never on my terms. And now I’m right now, “but the year after that”. There
Direction), Australia’s Got Talent and, understanding my value. have been stories that she would not be
latterly, The Masked Singer, the panel of “So we were in negotiations and inviting the Dolls to the wedding, but
which she left to risk Sunset in London. everything was going well and, honestly, when I ask Scherzinger’s publicist about
She still recorded, but her solo career the lawsuit came out of nowhere. It was the rumours – I forget to put them to
never reached Pussycat heights. Her a complete shock and disappointment Scherzinger – she says the wedding is
first album in 2011 made some waves and heartbreak for me. But I’m not “not even planned”.
but the second, three years later, was a victim; I’m a victor. And I stood my Our interview ends, surprisingly,
a commercial if not entirely critical flop. ground. I knew where I stood, which is touchingly, with a hug, but not before
But we did not get to hear everything.
She says she has probably 15 albums
written or recorded but never released.
Some of the songs, she lets slip, are likely
BABIES? ‘I’VE NEVER SHIED AWAY FROM THAT. I’M
to appear in a musical she is working on GOING TO HAVE TO MAKE TIME TO HAVE CHILDREN’
“loosely based on my life”.
Where she did score was at the London why I responded with eight counter- I hear a paean to God, whom the good
Palladium in 2014 playing Grizabella in claims. But, you know, I’m hopeful for Catholic Scherzinger gracefully thanked at
Lloyd Webber’s Cats. She was nominated the future. I’m very hopeful.” the head of her Oliviers acceptance speech
for an Olivier award but the Broadway In her decades in showbusiness, has the in April. She also wants to tell readers
transfer was not to be. The New York Post status of women changed for the better? about the power of good therapists.
reported that she had become entangled “It’s pretty obvious that women are Hers include her grandfather, who is an
in a row about the prominence of her always fighting for equality, right? But archbishop, a pastor, and an “intuitive
name in publicity material. A week before my name, Nicole, means ‘victory’. So coach” who has been with her for 20 years
rehearsals began, she quit for London and I don’t ever like to be a victim. I like to and is her “spiritual compass” and a great
The X Factor. Furious, Lloyd Webber said focus the light on being a victor. I think help with her “business stuff”. To achieve
DIOR BEAUTY. OPENING SPREAD, LEFT: CARDIGAN AND BRA, DOLCEGABBANA.COM. TROUSERS, SCHIAPARELLI.COM.

she had made him look like “an absolute that women have come a long way and our fullest potential and best life, we
HAIR: CRAIG MARSDEN AT ONE REPRESENTS USING BALMAIN HAIR COUTURE. MAKE-UP: CHYNARA KOJOEVA USING

twot”. They have, obviously, more than I also think maybe it’s not the industry should all have such people on hand.
made up now. that has allowed women to come a long So the psychic healing of Nicole
RIGHT: TOP AND SKIRT, DOLCEGABBANA.COM. EARRINGS, TASAKI.CO.UK. CHAIR, ANTHROPOLOGIE.COM

“I think that’s just time, you know? way, but the women themselves who have Scherzinger is not just down to a West
Andrew has done so much for me and he’s done that. I’m in control of my career. End musical, but it is surely a big part. No,
a friend. He and his family, they’re dear I do things on my terms now. My team I did not see her Sunset but YouTube has
friends of mine. And you know, he really supports me in my decisions. People don’t videos of her taking a bow on its first
did put a lot on the line and wanted to tell me what to do.” night and on its last. In the first she looks
bring Cats to Broadway. But it wasn’t in Since the beginning of 2020, mostly relieved, but in the last she is
the cards, I guess. It wasn’t in the stars. Scherzinger has been in a relationship triumphant, commanding and utterly
“It’s beautiful how things work with Thom Evans, a former Scottish spent. In both her hair is awry and her
themselves out. I’m honestly a big believer international rugby player six years black nightie drenched in blood.
in just letting things go that don’t serve her junior. She met him when he was “It’s great when you do the work,”
you, in growth and forgiveness. I don’t competing on The X Factor: Celebrity. she says. “You have to do the work and
like to hold on to things, because you’re Apparently, at home he sings more than you’ve got to look ugly in the face and
the only person that suffers. I think it she does. “It’s nice, because he likes a sometimes you’ve got to look ugly while
also brings people closer, you know? system – he’s extremely organised and you’re doing it, which is what I’ve done
Because we’ve gone through so much he’s extremely on time, which is the in this character. There were tears, blood
it’s a real relationship and we can be real opposite of me, so he makes me so and lots of snot. Never did I think I’d get
with one another.” much better in that way. I don’t know to that moment.”
He must have said, “Wow!” when he if all rugby players are like this but he’s But she did and there she was:
saw her as Norma. the cleanest. He’s OCD like me and I just bloodied, bowing, victorious. n
“Oh yes, I think he’s said more love it. It’s great.”
than that.” The other great thing about Evans Henley Festival presented by Westcoast
After a brief television reunion of the is that he likes his sleep. “He’s kind of runs July 10-14. Nicole Scherzinger performs
Dolls on The X Factor: Celebrity five years reprogramming my mind and helping me on July 10 at 9pm. For ticket information, go
ago a new tour was planned, but in 2022 try to sleep more. I’m loving sleep now.” to henley-festival.co.uk

The Times Magazine 19


Dan, right, celebrating his
11th birthday with Jon, 1982

Dan in 2008

I LOST MY BIG BROTHER. HE WAS MY


BEST FRIEND. COULD I HAVE SAVED HIM?

Jon in Count Binface guise for the London mayoral election this year
Jon Harvey, 44,
photographed by
Matt Crockett

Jon Harvey is best known as Count Binface, the ‘novelty politician’ who is
standing against Rishi Sunak in the general election next week. But there is a
personal tragedy behind the comedian’s public persona – the sudden death of
his beloved older brother at 43. Here he describes the worst day of his life
The brothers by the Thames in 2011

S
ome of my favourite tales end kick-off. That wasn’t ideal for me, being a
with death. At the end of the Tottenham fan. But then again, there are
Star Wars trilogy, Darth Vader much worse things an older brother can
dies. At the end of the Back be into. Just ask Prince Edward.
to the Future movies, the The unanswered texts and calls
DeLorean dies. At the end of continued into Monday. I tried to carry on
the latest Ghostbusters movie, as normal. In the evening I even went on
the integrity of the franchise a Tinder date to see a play, which ended
dies. But this story begins with in a kiss by the ticket barriers at Leicester
death. Because for those of us Square Tube. But my mind was several
left behind, that’s how it happens. Death zones away. (Sorry, Daisy.) At 10.30pm
strikes first, and then we have to pick up my mum called. “I’m worried,” she said.
the pieces and learn to cope. Nearly a So was I. Still there was silence from Dan.
decade has passed since my darkest day, We needed to find him. I tried to keep us
but these are still the most difficult words both calm and offered to go over to his
I’ve ever had to write: I used to have an flat straight away if she thought that was
older brother. best. But if everything was OK, as we
Seven simple words, one unbearable obviously hoped it was, then he’d probably
truth, which has just become harder than be asleep and wouldn’t hear me knocking.
ever. Because suddenly it’s true in more So what if instead I went over there first
ways than one. My brother Dan passed thing in the morning? Mum agreed and
away unexpectedly in 2015, when he was we said goodnight.
only 43. He was nine years older than me, Half of me stayed rational, refusing to
old enough to be almost like a second dad entertain dark thoughts. The other half
as well as a sibling. Last month, I turned was racing. Reassuring words were offered
44, and that means I’ve reached a new,
hateful milestone – an age that my
by housemates, but they just bounced off
me. Come dawn I found myself sitting on
He clearly struggled
brother never got to see.
This sour quirk of grief is rarely
the loo, shaking and googling, “What to
do if you find a dead body”.
with mental health
discussed, but it must be a tragically Once I’d reached Dan’s minuscule issues. I just thought
common sensation. If you’re feeling it studio flat – a Kensington aberration, it sat
right now as you read this, my heart goes on a street of millionaires like a pimple on he was a bit unusual
out to you. If my experience is anything a supermodel – I started contemplating
to go by, it’s a real mind-melter. Am I the how to break in. But there was no need.
older brother now? Are my memories For some reason the front door to the Why did my brother die? By the time
invalidated? Will my life be forever tainted building was ajar, so I ran up the stairs, of his funeral, we didn’t have an answer.
by this extra shot of sadness? Do I need banged on his door and yelled his name. The post-mortem result was only sent
to recalibrate Dan – how I fitted in his life, No response. I phoned his mobile and to us weeks later, so while I delivered
and how he fits in mine. It’s brought all pushed my ear up against the door to a eulogy extolling his infectious joie
the pain back, somehow sharper too, like listen. It rang. And rang. “I’m here, bro,” de vivre, for all I knew he might have
a 4K UHD reissue of a horror film. I’m I shouted. “I’m calling 999. If you can hear committed suicide. And while I didn’t give
having to live it, and fight it, all over again. me, help’s coming.” No response. I dialled that thought much credence, the spectre
It was just before 9am on Tuesday, emergency services and explained the of it did lurk. Dan had had a difficult last
PREVIOUS SPREAD: COURTESY OF JON HARVEY, STEVE CLEVERLEY, PA. THIS SPREAD: COURTESY OF JON HARVEY

June 9, 2015, when the world caved in. situation, my voice dry and breaking. The few months. He’d quit his job at the local
It was one of those summer mornings operator told me the police and an council, possibly after suffering some
when sunlight bathes London in gold ambulance were on their way. workplace bullying, and he didn’t have a
and optimism. In the backstreets of Until they came, I didn’t really know bean. He wasn’t a picture of health either.
Kensington, birdsong blended with the what to do. My brother either was or wasn’t He was a squat man with a head of short
soft hum of a vacuum cleaner wafting out on the other side of that thick wooden bushy black hair, two parts Danny Baker
of a pub and the gentle clank of empty door and he either was or was not alive. to one part Ronnie Corbett. He had a
swings in the children’s playground. Schrödinger’s sports fan. All I could do was slow, shuffling walk due to the obesity
Normal things. But normality was a wait. I headed back downstairs, wedged the he’d carried for his whole adult life.
universe away for me. I was standing house door open with a phone book, and Nothing too notable about that in
outside Dan’s flat and I was very scared. sat on the steps outside. I felt very small. 21st-century Britain, but since the new
What was now full-blown terror had It was an excruciating hour before the year he’d put on more weight and from
begun 36 hours earlier as a nagging police arrived. (The ambulance never did.) time to time complained of leg pains.
concern. Dan had been due to join us at Two constables turned up. I swallowed Still, nobody thought he was in imminent
Mum’s house for Sunday lunch but didn’t hard, told them what I knew, and they danger. So what was it that actually did
show up. Had he fallen asleep at home? followed me upstairs. They had a portable for him? The coroner ruled that Dan had
Maybe his shonky old mobile phone had battering ram and they asked me to fallen into a hypoglycaemic coma brought
given up the ghost. Perhaps he’d just stand aside. A brief smash and the first on by diabetes. He’d never been diagnosed
decided to go off grid for a bit. For Dan policeman forced his way in. with the condition.
this wasn’t entirely out of the ordinary. He “Is he in there?” his colleague asked. And that disease wasn’t the only
had a habit of not replying to messages “Yeah, he’s here.” complication he had that was going
and his timekeeping was erratic at best. And that was it. The only friend untreated. He clearly struggled with
Unless Crystal Palace Football Club was I’d known my whole life. He’d had mental health issues too, but those had
involved, that is. Dan was an ardent Palace the happiest happy-face I’d ever seen, never officially been recognised either. As
supporter. In a quarter of a century as a soundtracked by the happiest laugh. a kid, I didn’t think too much about it. I just
season ticket-holder, he barely missed a And he was gone. thought he was a bit unusual: a touch of

22 The Times Magazine


The guilt manifests itself in another way Party (“No votes”). And in 1992, he tried
too. How did I escape so lightly, I wonder, to get me to spend a whole night with him
compared with the afflictions that blighted at the general election count at Croydon
Dan’s life? No, I must correct myself there. Town Hall, when I was 12 years old,
“Blighted” is the wrong word. They helped “just for fun”. I politely declined, but as
define who he was. A wonderful brother. I watched in my pyjamas as he headed out
A man who lived for laughter. My brilliant the door with that beaming smile on his
friend. Even so, I can’t deny that he face, it planted an unlikely seed.
struggled in life a lot more than I have. Twenty-five years later, I fell into an
Maybe it was my luck to be the second improbable career as a novelty politician
born. After all, there was something else – the intergalactic space warrior Count
in our lives that lay behind much of our Binface (né Lord Buckethead). I only did it
childhood trauma, and which for nearly for a laugh, but so far my political career
a decade Dan had to suffer alone. Dad. has seen me whisked first class to New
Our dad was a fun-loving, gregarious, York to guest star on Last Week Tonight
creative character who first instilled in me with John Oliver, perform to 5,000 people
the pleasure of writing. We all adored him. at Glastonbury and now I’m challenging
But he was also an alcoholic. A really bad Rishi Sunak in his Richmond and
one. Never physically abusive but verbally Northallerton constituency.
poisonous. Corrupted by chemicals, he For Dan, a man who could quote the
could be a spiteful fountain of hate. When movie Spaceballs verbatim, my political
you’re a tiny kid, the idea of a baddie sideline would have sent him over the
is supposed to be Megatron or Skeletor, moon and several planets. But even
not the overweight lump in the living above sci-fi satire, the thing that Dan
room glowering at the TV and yelling and I shared, and which formed the most
paranoia; talking to himself in the obscenities while the rest of us cower precious and atomic bond between us, was
bathroom; compulsively checking he’d upstairs until he falls asleep, conked our love of sport. Any sport. It could be
shut the front door, pulling so hard it out by his own rage. Dad had been the World Cup final or kabaddi highlights
seemed he might take the handle off. damaged by his own mother’s premature on Channel 4. We loved all of it.
With 21st-century eyes, perhaps this could passing and he also died before his time, After he died, I threw myself into this
have been identified and understood as in 2005, aged just 57. He lit up our lives obsession and visited as many events as I
neurodiverse behaviour. But in the late and he cast a huge shadow over us too: could, everything from Wimbledon tennis
20th century, society too often ignored Jekyll and Hyde sponsored by Strongbow. to Wimbledon greyhounds, and even the
this kind of thing or brushed it aside as Like so many children with an alcoholic World Rubik’s Cube Championships in
eccentricity. Dan was part of a generation parent, we suffered it as a secret shame Paris. It became a sports odyssey that I’ve
whose mental wellbeing fell through the and it burnt us. I stayed teetotal into my chronicled in a book, A Fan for All Seasons.
cracks of the system, or what then passed thirties until I started to believe I might It’s a love letter to sport and a memorial
for a system. My brother’s case was not be doomed to repeat Dad’s fate; Dan to Dan, and the journey has given me the
aggravated by a cruel double whammy: he never let a drop of alcohol pass his lips. force field I so desperately needed to
craved privacy, yet he didn’t really know I’ll never know how far our father’s shield me from the worst of grief.
how to look after himself. Sometimes I influence damaged Dan’s life. Is that When it comes down to it, being Count
wonder how he managed as well as he did. what knocked him off his stride at Binface and championing sport are two
For nine years the fear has stalked me school? Is it why he never had a romantic sides of the same coin. A coin that was
that there might have been more I could relationship (that I know about)? Did it minted by my brother. They’re both –
have done. Something I could have said cause his mental health issues? Or just admittedly eccentric – ways that I’ve been
that might, just might, have moved the exacerbate them? able to keep the flame burning of my best
dial, unlocked the door. While I was kissing All I do know is there’s only one thing friend’s mightiest passions, and in so doing
a date at Leicester Square, was he lying in that’s stopped me from being swallowed to help his joy continue to radiate. Even if
pain? Or worse? Now that I’ve overtaken whole by bereavement as an adult. It’s it’s in a tiny way, it means Dan’s spirit lives
him in age, the worry sometimes feels like the same way we survived the pain when on. And though it breaks my heart that
it’s been turned up to 11. I know I tried. we were kids. We wrapped ourselves in he’ll never know it, in the past few years
I know I’m not supposed to shoulder the a comfort blanket of shared passions. A there has appeared another bit of him
blame. How do you help someone who Ready Brek glow of joy. For one thing, at in the world. In 2021, my wife Sarah and
doesn’t want to be helped and who’s unable an unfashionably young age Dan inspired I had a boy, and his miraculous smile is
to help themselves? But rational thoughts my love of politics and comedy, if those definitely Dan’s. Just like his middle name.
keep getting crowded out. In low moments, aren’t the same thing. He would relentlessly I don’t know if any of this equips me
my heart thumps with failure. The thought quote Blackadder, including characters like for contemplating life as the older sibling.
that I could have done something else. the immortal Ivor “jest ye not, madam” Frankly, it’s still a complete head-f***. But
That I should have tried harder. Biggun, candidate for the Standing at the as long as I can keep Dan’s fire flickering,
Grief is a guilt-seeking torpedo that Back, Dressed Stupidly and Looking Stupid I’m going to tell myself I needn’t worry.
homes in on the fault lines in your mind. I don’t need to be the bigger brother. That
In my case, that has meant wrestling with job is still taken. n
the occasions when I found Dan’s company
exhausting. Conceding this might serrate Dan inspired my love A Fan for All Seasons: A Journey
the clean edges of my story, and my role
in it, but to share the full monstrosity of
of politics and comedy, Through Life and Sport by Jon Harvey
(Vintage, £10.99). To order a copy go to
bereavement I can’t exclude how the pain
bounces back onto you, making you
if those aren’t the timesbookshop.co.uk. Free UK standard P&P
on orders over £25. Special discount
question yourself again and again. same thing available for Times+ members

The Times Magazine 23


WHAT’S SO FUNNY ABOUT
POSH GIRLS, LITERALLY?

Writer Georgina Roberts,


right, 28, with her friend
Lara Mutafyan, 29.
Opposite: Henry Rowley, 26

Portraits: Romas Foord


MEET THE MAN LOVED BY GEN Z
WOMEN – FOR MAKING FUN OF THEM

‘Oh my God!
My sweat
is literally pure
Whispering Angel’

Henry Rowley has 1.3 million followers on TikTok, many of


whom are the butt of his jokes – privately educated, privileged
party animals who don’t take themselves too seriously.
Georgina Roberts, left, one of his biggest fans, meets him
F
irst, it was Joanna Lumley Thompson and her I’m a Celebrity-winning
and Jennifer Saunders swigging brother, Sam, Sophie Hermann and Miles
Bolly in Absolutely Fabulous. Nazaire. Posh people like them (and me)
Then, it was the Kings Road clearly don’t mind laughing at caricatures
glamazons of Made in Chelsea of themselves, while his other followers
with their blazing arguments love to hate poshos. “A lot of my audience
and bed-hopping. Most are like, ‘Yeah, f*** all them poshos.’ Then
recently, in Emerald Fennell’s there are loads of people who are like,
dark aristo romp Saltburn, ‘That’s so me.’ ”
Rosamund Pike’s Lady Elspeth So who are Minty and her friends
Catton asked her husband, “Darling, in real life? I suppose you could call us
where’s Liverpool?’’ “the new posh”. My poshest friends don’t
Now, the latest generation of posh wear red chinos, own labradors or go
young things have a new avatar: the horse riding. They live in Hackney in east
26-year-old British comedian Henry London, deejay in their spare time, love
Rowley. He has gone viral on TikTok Houghton and Glastonbury festivals and
thanks to his sardonic impressions of drink natural (“natty”) wine at wine bars
husky-voiced posh girls who start most in Dalston. They are more comfortable
sentences with “literallyyyy”, shout raspily, at a drum’n’bass rave in Tottenham than
“No, seriously, guys, where the f*** is my they are at Ascot races.
vape?” and drawl, “No, no, no, I’m not Rowley pictures most of his characters
even that posh.” living in east London too. Even Tatler,
The first time a friend sent me one “the posh people’s bible”, declared
of Rowley’s videos and said, “This is Hackney to be the new “borough du jour”
so us,” I laughed and then squirmed. in May. “Once upon a time, it was all
He was parodying me – with painful about west London,” the magazine stated.
accuracy. In one sketch titled POV: “But now, the glitterati have swapped
The Posh Girl on a Hangover, viewed Portobello for Broadway Market.”
152,000 times, Rowley lies face down I am that stereotype. I grew up in
in a bed and says in a husky voice, “I’m southwest London and went to a private
not even being dramatic, like, I think I’m girls’ school in Hammersmith before
gonna die. Like, I really want a Maccies moving to Dalston after university in
[McDonald’s].” Stumbling to a sauna he 2018 because I thought it was cool. I have
says, “Oh my God! My sweat is literally
pure Whispering Angel. I’m literally
both been and met Rowley’s characters.
“The relatability is definitely a key factor.
Rowley and I were both
sweating out rosé.”
I have definitely said something
With characters like the Soho House ones
or posh people or DJs, it’s things we’ve all
at Bristol University.
along those lines after a heavy night experienced,” he says. He is parodying me
out, and the voice he puts on is a dead Rowley’s audience is mostly aged
ringer for mine (after years of smoking between 18 and 35, but he has a surprisingly with painful accuracy
and vaping). And I’m not the only one. large following among the over-fifties
“Henry’s videos personally attack me, but too. Who are they? “Posh mums,” he says,
they are priceless. Unfortunately, I relate smiling. “I did a show recently and there week; she’s just got a sore throat.’ But over
to the posh girl character the most. He was an army of six really good-looking three years it never went,” he says. “There
takes the piss in a witty way, which makes posh mums. Afterwards they were like, were more and more people like that.
me laugh at myself,” says Lara Mutafyan, ‘Oh my gosh, we love you so much. We I was like, is this a thing? Have people
29. “One girl was talking about her pony always send our kids your stuff because smoked too much? Are they born like
at my friend’s hen do – she was definitely they’re at uni and they’re just like your this? I found it hilarious.” His followers
USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE. ROWLEY’S JEWELLERY, TILLYSVEAAS.CO.UK. ROMAS FOORD

a ‘Minty’ [Rowley’s name for his posh-girl characters. Can we get a photo?’ ” will all have met a posh person like Minty
MAKE-UP: LUCIE PEMBERTON USING CHARLOTTE TILBURY. HAIR BY KRYSTAL BUCKLEY

alter ego]. His hangover uni sketches It’s no surprise that Rowley’s posh at some point. “Across generations, for
really remind me of when me and the characters parody me so accurately. people who went to unis like Bristol, there
girls tried to cure our hangovers by He says they are “an amalgamation of was always someone like that.”
drinking rosé.” every friend I made at Bristol Uni”, where One of his most relatable sketches for
I am meeting Rowley for breakfast at I also studied. We overlapped there for a me, a vaping addict, is called Posh Girl
Caravan in King’s Cross, near his home. year and both did English. He jokes that Loses Her Vape. The skit was based on
He’s wearing all black, from his boots to we were probably dancing in the now a real friend losing her Juul vape on her
his leather jacket, and a knitted sweater defunct Bristol nightclub Blue Mountain birthday. “She was going mental. Like,
vest that reveals tattooed arms. He is at the same time. ‘Where the f*** is my Juul? Who’s stolen
bedecked with silver rings, earrings, In the year I graduated, my hall of my Juul?’ It turned out she was sitting on
bracelets and necklaces. residence, Badock, was crowned “the it. The next day I made a video.” Did his
He comes across as faultlessly polite, poshest hall” by the student newspaper, friend not mind? “She loved it. People
self-deprecating and funny. When I drop The Tab, after it revealed that 56 per cent don’t get offended.”
my notebook on the floor, he pretends to of its residents that year were educated at Rowley’s Bristol friends call him by
read my notes and asks, “Why have you independent schools. his surname, which is a very boarding
written ‘twat?’ ” He slips in and out of his “Bristol girls” like me gave Rowley the school trope, but he went to a private
characters’ voices during our conversation inspiration for Minty’s raspy low voice. day school in Leicester. “I was the least
as he nibbles a giant pain au chocolat. “There was a girl in my first-year English posh in the school. But I was the only
On Instagram he is followed by former class who had the huskiest voice I’ve ever one of my mates in Leicester who went
Made in Chelsea stars including Louise heard. I remember thinking, ‘It’s freshers to private school, so they called me ‘the

26 The Times Magazine


It’s not as relatable for men and they may
WHAT POSH GIRLS SAY NOW, LITERALLY feel more attacked by that,” he says.
Is his sketch POV: You’re on a Date with
Literally Used for dramatic Let me get on the aux Ghosting The person you’ve a Creative based on him? “I was on the
effect constantly. I want to control the music. been dating stops replying dating scene and it’s probably inspired by
Pass-agg Passive-aggressive. Delulu Someone who is to your messages – and me, but made to be the absolute worst,” he
Hundy P One hundred delusional about their never replies again. says. “In dating, you always want to show
per cent. achievements/love life. Fit check Look at my outfit. the best sides of yourself, saying stuff like,
Natty wine Natural wine. New ick unlocked Profesh Professional. ‘So, I actually love to read.’ ”
An ick A big turn-off. Discovering a repulsive A creative Someone who He read a manual on scriptwriting
Spenny Expensive. trait in the person that works (probably freelance) that advised if you want to write about
Afters A party at you’re dating. in a non-corporate job. someone in a negative way but don’t want
someone’s house, after Nervy b Short for a Lizzy line The London them to raise a court case about character
the nightclub closes. nervous breakdown. Tube’s Elizabeth Line. defamation, just give them a tiny penis.
B Babe. Cocky Cocktail. Sick/Dank Great or cool. “Because no one’s going to say, ‘Yeah,
Cozzie livs The cost of It’s giving… It has a similar The boys The male that’s me. I’m the one with the tiny
living crisis. vibe or look to… members of a group penis,’ ” he says. “It’s like that with these
Situationship Having Doing it for the plot Making of friends. characters. You make them so horrendous
casual, infrequent sex rash decisions and saying Peng Good-looking. that no one wants to claim it.”
with someone. yes to everything in a bid Or tasty. His other dating series, called POV:
Maccies McDonald’s. to make the “plot” of your Merked Drunk. On a Date with the Walking Ick, is almost
Gassed Excited or happy. life more interesting. Tbf To be fair. too cringe-inducing to watch. An “ick”
Arvo Afternoon. Genny lec Slang for the It slaps It’s really good (can is slang for an immediate turn-off.
Garms Clothes. general election. be food or an outfit). Rowley’s “walking ick” says, “Mmmm,
you’re wearing the same perfume that
my sister wears,” or, “God, it all looks so
posh boy’,” he says. “Then I went to Bristol Has he dated a Minty? “I dated a scrummy,” or, “I do a bit of spoken word
and suddenly I was like a street urchin. really posh Chelsea girl. I’ve definitely in my spare time. Would it be weird if
Students there were like, ‘Oh wow, do you had ‘situationships’ [flings] with Minty I read you some, like right now?”
know how to roll a spliff?’ ” types. But the Mintys of the world go for At 26, Rowley sits at the older end
He was born in Leicester to a doctor the finance ‘rah rah rah’ boys.” of Gen Z. Is he typical of my cohort? Is
father and therapist mother (who did I know plenty of women who fancy he addicted to his phone? Does he love
“really good impressions”). In school, Rowley. Ladies, I’m sorry to report that he vaping? “My screen time is not too bad
he says he was “cheeky-chappy naughty”. has been in a relationship for six months. – four or five hours. I hate vaping. I do
His “parents had this horrific divorce”, Is he aware of his heart-throb status? “No. smoke when I drink though.” That being
which meant he “misbehaved a lot” I get told I look like Rumpelstiltskin from said, later he asks me, “Is it forward if
and “partied”. Shrek a lot in TikTok comments. They’ve I ask for some of your vape?” and puffs
Growing up, he always wanted to got a point.” on my peach Elf Bar. “But obviously, I am
be an actor, and still does. He did theatre Rowley met his girlfriend on Instagram. Gen Z. I mean, my job is ‘TikToker’. I can’t
productions as a youngster at Curve She messaged a year ago. “Then she just say I’m not. Who am I kidding?”
Theatre in Leicester and constantly blanked me. It turns out she just wanted The night before, he played a stand-up
sends out tapes for acting roles. He was to say my video was funny, but wasn’t gig in Maidenhead, Berkshire. “The
desperate to go to drama school but his trying to chirpse [make sexual advances].” average age of the audience was, like, 90,”
father wouldn’t allow it. He said, “There He is now “absolutely in love”. he says. “I was thinking, ‘Oh my gosh, I’ve
are so many people who don’t make it. No, Rowley’s dating videos, which riff on got a whole sketch dedicated to willy
you’re going to university.” being on dates with “creatives”, finance jokes. This is not going to work.’ ”
As we talk, it becomes clear that some bros, musicians or know-it-alls, also rack He’s returning to the Edinburgh
of the groups he sends up are people who up thousands of likes and ring true. In Fringe this summer. Last year he “sensed
initially “intimidated” him. “The first time one, the “creative” boy gets a book from hostility” from the established stand-ups,
I went to Soho House, everyone was so his bag and says, “That’s embarrassing. when he and other TikTokers played
cool. I sat there really trying to fit in. I was I’ve brought out my Meditations by Edinburgh’s Cabaret Bar. “I felt so
ordering picantes,” he says of the private Marcus Aurelius… Do you want to hated. They were looking at us like, ‘Oh,
member’s club’s signature drink. “Then come back to my place? It’s just a TikTokers,’ because they’ve worked all
I looked around and realised everyone’s mattress on the floor, but I’ve got some their lives to get to where they are.” They
doing this. I need to separate myself and really cool artwork pieces of naked relaxed when he told them, “I’m actually
make a video on it.” women that I’ve drawn myself and a towel really shit. I’m nothing like you guys.”
Similarly, his fellow students at Bristol that’s not been washed in four years.” Rowley tells me he has a tennis lesson
overawed him. “There were so many cool My single female friends have been to get to, so we hug goodbye and I tell
guys who were trying so hard. I was really on Hinge dates with the men depicted in him I’ll see him at the photoshoot “in the
intimidated in their presence,” he says. Rowley’s videos. They present themselves arvo”. He laughs and repeats “arvooo”.
“When I left uni, I began to realise there’s as arty, well read, feminist, sensitive souls, He’s probably recording his next skit about
so much pretence behind that.” but, in nearly all cases, end up “ghosting” posh girls who say “arvo” right now. n
For the past five years he has lived my friends after they get a shag.
with a “loaded” university friend whose “The date is such a relatable and Henry Rowley: Just Literally is at the
father bought him a flat in London. cringey circumstance. I hear these horror Edinburgh Fringe Festival Pleasance
“I’ve not had stuff handed to me. But stories from friends about boys being like Courtyard Beside from July 31-August 26,
objectively I am posh, and I’ve had that on dates,” he says. His biggest audience ahead of an autumn tour of the UK and
opportunities that other people won’t is young British women, partly because Ireland from October 16-November 29
have,” he says. “the dates are from the female perspective. (henryrowley.com)

The Times Magazine 27


The DOCTOR The MIDLIFE PATIENT

HOW TO TURN ON YOUR LIBIDO


Inside the testosterone clinic
The YOUNG PATIENT

The COUPLE

Erectile dysfunction, off sex, mood swings, poor sleep and


memory loss? Meet the doctor who thinks testosterone is the
answer – and the men breaking taboos by talking about it.
By Michael Odell

From left: Dr Jeff Foster, who runs a clinic that treats men with low testosterone; his
patient Stephen Webb; patient turned testosterone clinic founder Alastair Kennett;
Anthony and Rachael Clark Hurd. Portraits: Tim Jobling. Story continues on page 38
Eat!

4 - P L LO U
PU
AG T
E
Five delicious summer
dishes by Ben Tish

How to make the most moreish Mediterranean


D
espite the fact that the first dish he
learnt to cook was steak au poivre
and his early chef jobs were in
high-end Michelin-starred kitchens,
Ben Tish has always felt an
affinity for the sunny food of the
Mediterranean. “My life changed 20 years
ago when a chance opportunity arose to
help at the opening of an Italian restaurant,
Al Duca, in London. The all-southern
Italian team were completely focused on
authenticity,” he says, recalling the leafy
lemons, misshapen courgettes and young
artichokes that were flown in from
Sardinia that morning. “It was like nothing
I’d seen before. I could smell the tomatoes
before they had arrived in the kitchen.”
A year later he was made head chef
and began visiting Calabria, Puglia,
Sardinia and Sicily. There he learnt to
embrace the simplicity of allowing good
ingredients to dictate the menu.
Now executive chef of the Cubitt
House group of restaurants, he has
travelled extensively around the whole
Mediterranean basin for his latest book,
Mediterra. “These are the dishes I love to
share with friends, family and customers
alike,” he says. “And if I have a message,
it’s not only to cook like a Mediterranean,
but to eat like one too.” Tony Turnbull

CLEMENCE STREET MOUSSAKA • 2 large free-range eggs, beaten pan off the heat and leave it to cool
• Nutmeg, for grating slightly, then beat in the eggs, grate
Serves 4 in nutmeg to taste and season with salt
1. Preheat the oven to 180C fan/gas 6. and pepper.
While mostly associated with Greece, Lightly oil as many baking sheets as you 6. Arrange one third of the aubergines
moussaka has its roots in the Middle East need to hold the aubergine slices in a in an ovenproof serving dish, then top
where layers of aubergine, tomato and single layer. with half the lamb ragout. Repeat these
meat are baked and combined with fresh 2. Place the aubergines on the baking layers, finishing with a layer of aubergine
herbs, cheeses and spices. Eastern Europe sheets. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, and the sauce spooned over the top.
also has a version that predates the Greek. drizzle over a little olive oil and season. 7. Place the dish on a baking sheet
This is my version, inspired by many Bake for about 20 minutes until they are and transfer to the oven. Bake for about
wonderfully vivid and sparkling Greek soft, golden and tender. Do not turn off the 45 minutes until bubbling and well
holidays, now regularly enjoyed at our oven when you take out the aubergines. browned. Set aside to cool for 30 minutes
home in east London. 3. Meanwhile, heat a good splash of olive before serving. Sprinkle over extra cheese,
oil in a large frying pan over a medium- if you want, and garnish with the
• Olive oil high heat. When hot, add the onion remaining mint leaves.
• 3 medium or 2 large aubergines, and fry, stirring occasionally, until it is
cut lengthways into 5mm slices softened but without colour. Add the FRIED SQUID WITH SAMPHIRE
• A handful of panko breadcrumbs garlic, cinnamon and half the mint leaves AND PRESERVED LEMONS
• Sea salt and black pepper and stir for a further couple of minutes.
• 1 large onion, finely chopped 4. Stir in the lamb, turn up the heat Serves 4 as a starter
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped slightly and brown the meat well, cooking
• 1½ tsp ground cinnamon until the mixture is quite dry. Stir in One of life’s true pleasures – a plate of
• A handful of mint leaves, chopped, the tomato puree and wine and bring crispy squid served alongside an ice-cold
plus extra to garnish to a simmer, then add the tomatoes. beer, preferably somewhere by the sea
• 500g minced lamb Turn down the heat to low and leave to where it is sunny and hot.
• 2 tbsp tomato puree simmer for 30-40 minutes until most of The Cretans know how to fry squid.
• 200ml dry red wine the liquid has evaporated. Season well Baby squid are the best when split, dipped
• 400g tinned chopped tomatoes and stir in the parsley. in a coarse flour and fried very quickly for
• A handful of parsley, chopped 5. Make the sauce. Bring the milk to a nice crunch and served piping hot.
just below boiling in one pan and melt
For the sauce the butter in another saucepan over a • 400g baby squid, cleaned and
• 500ml whole milk medium-low heat. Stir the flour into the cut in half, tentacles and all
• 60g butter, diced butter and continue stirring for 2 minutes, • 500ml whole milk
• 60g plain white flour then gradually whisk in the hot milk until • 4 tbsp coarse cornflour
• 50g kefalotyri or pecorino cheese, you have a thick, smooth sauce. Add the • 4 tbsp plain white flour
grated, plus extra to finish (optional) cheese and stir until melted. Take the • Sea salt

32 The Times Magazine


Eat! MEDITERRANEAN
• Rapeseed or sunflower oil, SPAGHETTI WITH DATTERINI 1. Preheat the oven to 180C fan/gas 6.
for deep-frying TOMATOES, ANCHOVIES AND SAGE 2. Place the tomatoes and chilli in
• 2 preserved lemons, drained a roasting tin, drizzle with olive oil
and sliced (remove any pips) Serves 4 and season well. Sprinkle over the
anchovies, garlic and thyme leaves
To serve This is perhaps the ultimate spaghetti and roast for 30 minutes or until the
• 30g fresh cleaned samphire al pomodoro – I have made a few little tomatoes are softened.
• Lemon wedges tweaks to add layers of extra flavour. 3. Transfer everything to a saucepan over
• Shop-bought aïoli or mayonnaise Good ripe tomatoes such as datterini a medium heat and pour over the passata.
(optional) are now readily available in supermarkets. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and
The anchovies give a nice hit of umami simmer until the tomatoes start to break
1. Place the squid in a bowl and pour while the added dash of balsamic to the up. Season again and sprinkle in chilli
over the milk. Leave for an hour or so sauce lends sweetness and depth (a good flakes to taste. A dash of balsamic here
– this helps to tenderise the flesh. Mix tip for meat ragouts as well). is nice. Keep the sauce hot.
together the cornflour, flour and 1 tsp 4. Meanwhile, bring a pan of salted water
sea salt, then set aside. • 200g ripe datterini, cherry to the boil. Add the pasta and boil until
2. Heat enough oil for deep-frying in a or other small tomatoes just al dente. Using tongs, transfer the
deep-fat fryer or a heavy-based saucepan • 1 large fresh red chilli, stalk pasta to the sauce with a couple of ladles
until it reaches 180C on a thermometer or and seeds removed of the starchy pasta water. Stir and toss
until a sprinkle of flour fizzles on impact. • Olive oil through the pasta to coat, adding the sage,
3. Drain the squid well and transfer to the • Sea salt and black pepper cheese and extra virgin olive oil to taste.
flour mixture along with the preserved • 3 salted anchovy fillets, rinsed Give it another stir. Serve in bowls and
lemon slices. Toss through to coat and and very finely chopped sprinkle over more cheese and
then shake off any excess. • 2 garlic cloves breadcrumbs, if using.
4. Working in batches, add the squid and • Chopped leaves from
preserved lemons to the oil and fry until 2 fresh thyme sprigs ROAST CHICKEN WITH GRAPES,
they are crispy and light golden brown. • 200ml tomato passata WINE AND ROSEMARY
Drain well on a tray lined with kitchen • ½ tsp dried chilli flakes, or to taste
paper and sprinkle with sea salt. Keep • Balsamic vinegar (optional) Serves 6
warm in a low oven and continue until • 400g fresh or dried spaghetti
all the squid and lemon slices are fried. • A handful of sage leaves There’s something so wonderfully
5. Serve in bowls with the samphire, • 30g pecorino or parmesan, finely comforting and therapeutic about the
lemon wedges for squeezing over and grated, plus extra to serve whole process of roasting a chicken.
the aïoli or mayonnaise, if using. • Extra virgin olive oil This exquisite Provençal version sets
• A handful of day-old breadcrumbs, sweet roasted grapes and fragrantly
fried in olive oil until golden (optional aromatic rosemary as a backdrop to
– this is the southern Italian way) the salty chicken.

The Times Magazine 33


Eat! MEDITERRANEAN
PHOTOGRAPHS Kris Kirkham

• 1 red onion, unpeeled and 5. Meanwhile, strain all the juices from the • 100g coriander sprigs
cut into quarters roasting tin into a saucepan. Put the grapes • 50g flatleaf parsley sprigs
• 1 garlic bulb, cut in half widthways back in the tin and return to the oven. • Half a green pepper, halved,
• 1 oven-ready free-range chicken, Roast for a further 5 minutes or until they cored and deseeded
about 1.8kg are sticky and begin to caramelise. • ½ tsp ground cumin
• Olive oil 6. Add the remaining 150ml stock to the • Sea salt and freshly ground
• Sea salt and freshly ground pan and boil for 10 minutes or until the black pepper
black pepper juices have reduced and thickened. Serve
• 4 fresh rosemary sprigs the chicken with the sticky, sweet grapes 1. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan
• Half an unwaxed lemon and the sauce for pouring over at the table. and cover by 3cm with cold water. Add
• 700g seedless red or black grapes, 100g sea salt and then bring to the boil,
ideally on their stalks SLOW-ROAST POTATOES covered. Uncover the pan, lower the heat
• 200ml dry red wine WITH GREEN SAUCE and leave the potatoes to simmer until just
• 300ml chicken stock (fresh tender. Drain well. When they are cool
or homemade is best) Serves 4; the sauce makes about 200ml enough to handle, cut in half lengthways.
2. Preheat the oven to 170C fan/gas 5.
1. Preheat the oven to 200C fan/gas 7. A wonderful dish from Mallorca, where 3. Place all the sauce ingredients in a
2. Put the onion and half the garlic bulb in potatoes are revered as much as meat or blender and blitz until a coarse paste forms.
a deep roasting tin. Rub the chicken with fish. It’s one of my favourite potato dishes, Season to taste. Set aside until needed.
olive oil, then season all over and inside the great on its own or served with grilled 4. Pour a good layer of olive oil into a
cavity. Place 1 rosemary sprig, the lemon meats and fish. You need a starchy potato roasting tray. Add the potatoes and stir
half and the remaining half garlic bulb for this. I like Pink Firs, but rattes or them round, then sprinkle with more salt.
in the cavity. Place the chicken on the Charlottes are also good. The salt seems Roast for 35-40 minutes, tossing once or
onion and garlic and transfer to the oven. excessive, but it helps dry the potatoes twice, until crisp and golden. Drain the
Roast for 30 minutes or until the skin has and creates a delicious salty crust. potatoes on a tea towel and serve with the
started to brown nicely and caramelise. mojo verde spooned over the top. n
3. Reduce the heat to 160C fan/gas 4. • 500g Pink Fir or other waxy, dry
Scatter the grapes and three rosemary potatoes (see above), scrubbed
sprigs around the chicken and pour around • 100g sea salt, plus extra for sprinkling Mediterra by Ben Tish
the wine and half the stock. Roast for a • Olive oil (Bloomsbury Absolute,
further 45 minutes or until the chicken £26) is published on
is cooked through – it should be crisp For the green sauce (mojo verde) Thursday. To order go to
and golden on the outside and the juices • 100ml extra virgin olive oil timesbookshop.co.uk or
should run clear when the thigh is pierced. • 20ml red wine vinegar call 020 3176 2935. Free
4. Transfer the chicken to a rimmed plate, • 1 tbsp fennel fronds P&P on online orders
cover with kitchen foil and leave to rest • 1 green chilli, deseeded over £25. Discount for
for 15 minutes. Do not turn off the oven. • 1 garlic clove Times+ members

34 The Times Magazine


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Warm welcomes, whale sharks, walks in the Valley of the Giants and on tranquil WHY I LOVE WA
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NOUGHT TO SIX origami-inspired Ribbon light – a of guest designers. Conran’s sons Felix
After six decades of shaking
collector’s favourite – and, of course, and Sebastian are contributing products
up Britain, beloved home and the chicken brick, a terracotta device alongside textile designer Margo Selby,
for steam-cooking poultry that was a ceramicist Silvia Kamodyová and Habitat
furniture brand Habitat is still mainstay of 1970s wedding registries. veteran Tord Boontje.
going strong. So what’s next? Now, in celebration of its 60th birthday, Habitat’s back catalogue also served
the company is set to revive as inspiration for many
t’s difficult to imagine how different some of the nation’s most of these new releases. Just

I British homes would look without


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1964 by designer Terence Conran,
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“This anniversary has
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THE RIPPLE RUGS DRAW
INSPIRATION FROM THE
look at the Ripple rugs by
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draw inspiration from
the artist’s paintings of
the female form, as well
the masses and introducing the public to classics from decades past as the brand’s 1970s
novelties such as flatpack furniture, the for how we live today,” says ARTIST’S PAINTINGS OF textile designs.
wok (complete with its own instruction Andrew Tanner, Habitat’s The aim is for these
manual) and even the humble duvet – head of design. The chicken
THE FEMALE FORM products to become the
bedtime would never be the same again. brick, for example, has woks and wedding list
Beyond pioneering new product been given a sleek matt black makeover, staples of tomorrow. “Our design team
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design in the 60 years since opening its Accompanying the old faithful is decades,” says Tanner. With Habitat ready
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The testosterone doctor Continued from page 29

en may be from Mars and deficiency (overall testosterone levels may

M
Michael Douglas with his partner, Davina McCall
women from Venus, but the be normal but “free” testosterone – that
real gender differences show which is not bound to proteins – is
up in how the sexes behave available for use building muscle, driving
in GP Jeff Foster’s surgery. good mood, libido, erections etc).
“Women tend to say Jackson now pays £28 for a monthly
what’s on their mind,” testosterone jab.
Foster says. “But a lot of “I sleep better and the body fat around
men are what I call anxious my middle has shifted.”
‘knob clingers’. They chat I speak to Michael Douglas on the
generally and only tell me what the real set of an ITV production called My Mum,
issue is when they’re on their way out and Your Dad (where single parents nominated
clinging to my doorknob. It’ll be, ‘Actually, by their children go on dates with each
there’s one more thing…’ or, ‘My wife said other) with his partner, the broadcaster
I should mention…’ ” Davina McCall. Douglas is a hairdresser
Foster’s GP practice is in Leamington with a client list that includes the actors
Spa and he’s a good advert for men’s Johnny Depp and Sienna Miller and, of
wellbeing. He goes to the gym five times a course, McCall herself.
week, cycles and plays football. His male McCall has long been a vocal
patients like the fact he looks good and
emits easygoing “bro” vibes. One feels you
‘I DON’T WANT TO TALK advocate for the better understanding
of female menopause. In 2021 she
could tell him anything. ABOUT ME AND DAVINA IN hosted the Channel 4 documentary
“Guys who can’t get it up often wait Sex, Myths and the Menopause and the
years to do anything about it, if they do
THE BEDROOM DEPARTMENT, following year published (with co-writer
anything at all,” he says. “When they walk BUT MY LIBIDO IMPROVED’ Dr Naomi Potter) a well-received book
in here, I encourage them to be brave. called Menopausing.
Tell me if you can’t get erect. Not only But that meant when Douglas,
can I give you your erections back, but a if they start a family. Men don’t engage in 50, started feeling a bit down and
deeper look at your issues might possibly the same way and they suffer needlessly, experiencing low libido, he wasn’t sure if
save your life.” sometimes even die as a result.” he should mention it. After all, a sudden
As a male GP, he is regularly consulted Foster has been practising for drop in testosterone in middle age
about erectile dysfunction. According to 14 years. Three years ago he set up (sometimes infelicitously known as “late
research conducted by the maker of a clinic specifically for men called H3. onset hypogonadism”) is often confused
Eroxon, a topical gel which it claims can It’s private – a men’s health MOT costs with the so-called “manopause”.
produce an erection in ten minutes, 50 per £500. He says men’s health, particularly “What with some women already
cent of all men over 40 will experience sexual health, is an overlooked area. And feeling men are encroaching on their
erectile issues. But what’s the problem? it’s not just erections. Patients present space with regard to trans issues, I totally
Last year marked the 25th anniversary of issues in a variety of ways. get it when they say, ‘Oh, and now they
the introduction of the erectile dysfunction Thirty-year-old Ben Jackson walked want to barge in on the menopause with
pill Viagra and last year 4.5 million doses through the door of H3 two years ago. their manopause!’ ” he says. “But Davina
were prescribed in the UK – with 7,000 Despite being a fitness fanatic who was actually fascinated. She doesn’t feel
going to men in their nineties in 2022. runs, plays rugby and does bodybuilding, women’s issues are being undermined if
But Foster isn’t sure we should be he felt something wasn’t right. men go through something comparable.
celebrating. Viagra is an example of men “I was doing all this sport yet feeling You don’t just want half the population
grasping for the quick, easy fix when the lethargic and suffering with low libido,” he feeling good, right?”
real problems may lie much deeper. says. “I don’t want to knock the NHS, but Like many men, Douglas wasn’t
“Your penis really is the barometer when I mentioned to my GP I thought I sure what underpinned his symptoms.
for overall health and I wish men would might have low testosterone he assumed His morning mood was foggy and
see that,” he says. “If you don’t address the I wanted it to enhance my bodybuilding, he often lacked energy at the gym.
underlying causes of erectile dysfunction, which was rubbish.” In the evenings he didn’t want to go
recent data says you probably have three Foster’s speciality is the sex hormone out to socialise.
years until you will likely have a heart testosterone and the myriad symptoms “I love my life but sometimes in
attack or a stroke.” arising from a deficiency. He is one of the morning there was this sense of,
Erectile dysfunction might have the authors of national guidelines on its ‘I might just go back to bed.’ Davina didn’t
psychological or hormonal causes but, prescription published last year by the notice because I tried to hide it. I’d make
warns Foster, more often than not it British Society for Sexual Medicine. an effort, but if you ask a lot of men
indicates wider vascular damage. Impaired Jackson paid for his MOT. The in their forties and over, it’s not an
blood supply to the penis can in turn one-hour check-up involved completing uncommon experience.”
signal impaired blood supply to the a questionnaire about lifestyle, family One of Douglas’s friends was taking
heart. It’s one of the health issues that medical history, diet, mental health and testosterone shots in Dubai. He suggested
Foster tries to communicate to medicine’s exercise habits. There followed a physical Douglas did the same.
hardest to reach cohort: men over the examination including an ECG (an “I’m the kind of guy that says, ‘I’m
age of 40. electrocardiogram indicates healthy not injecting myself with anything,’ ”
TIM JOBLING, GETTY IMAGES

“Women often develop a lifelong heart rate and rhythm), urine dip (urine he says. But after consulting Jeff Foster,
relationship with their GP,” Foster says. analysis can disclose anything from liver blood tests showed that while his overall
“They visit for the contraceptive pill, then disease and kidney stones to diabetes) and testosterone wasn’t low (the healthy scale
cervical and breast scans and also when a range of blood tests. runs from 6 to 27 nanomoles per litre;
they are pregnant. Then they usually A week later, Jackson had his results. Douglas scored a 20), his free testosterone
take charge of children’s appointments Foster diagnosed a “free” testosterone could have been better. Foster prescribed

38 The Times Magazine


The HUSBAND AND WIFE
‘His libido went down and I think he felt
he wasn’t man enough for me any more’
Anthony, 64, and Rachael Clark Hurd, to someone made me feel so much better.
40, have been together for 20 years. Blood tests then showed my testosterone
He is retired and is now a part-time model. levels were low. So I take 0.6mg of TRT
They have three children and live in on a Monday and a Friday, which costs
Portsmouth. Anthony began testosterone me £100 a month. I felt transformed after
replacement therapy three years ago. a week. My mood improved and work
improved because I was more focused.
Anthony It’s not just about keeping your muscles
Having a much younger partner, you or “horizontal jogging” with no issue. It’s
do feel a bit insecure sometimes. In the about the alertness it gives you. Tony is left walking around with a tea
early days there were occasions when My youngest child is three, so I want towel holder. That’s not a long-term
men would hit on Rachael because to keep healthy. solution. For us, sex isn’t something we
they’d look at me and think he’s a bit of can plan out as there is always someone
an old fart, I must have a chance. So it Rachael around who needs something.
has always been important to me to keep Tony is a very energetic, youthful person. In hindsight, the situation was declining
fit for her, but also for me. A few years Then a few years ago, things started for about a year. Then we got to a point
ago I started training three times a week. to change. He became quite low, very where I said, “We are not making any
But after a while, I was finding that, moody and introverted, with little patience headway here. Things are not improving
by Friday, I was knackered. I had also with the children and me. He would get and it’s affecting your mental health. It’s
started to feel really flat and moody. stressed, then his libido went down and giving you anxiety and it’s affecting me
I have always been very sexually that really affected him. I think he didn’t and the family, as you are not very fun
active. When you have a family, the feel that he was man enough for me any to be around.” We did research and TRT
approach is, “Quick, the kids are out!” more. It was a vicious circle. When we’d seemed to be the answer.
But gradually I wasn’t feeling that any be in the mood, the pressure he put on Like many women, I didn’t have
more either. I remember one evening himself would build. Then he might get a clue what TRT was until then. If it
Rachael bent over the bath to turn on some erectile dysfunction, and he would was spoken about more, women could
the taps while I was cleaning my teeth. put even more pressure on himself. approach their husbands, or men could
She said, “If I had done that a few years We’ve always had a great sex life and broach it with their wives and say,
ago you would have jumped me.” She we’d still always try, but it started to come “I think this may be a problem.”
was right. I hadn’t noticed the change. with a niggling worry for me: if Tony After beginning treatment, his
Losing my sex drive knocked me for doesn’t fulfil what he wants to fulfil this confidence came back. His muscle loss
six. I started to feel a bit useless, which time, I know he’ll be cross with himself, reversed, as did his tiredness. And we
is not something I have ever felt in my embarrassed. And it won’t stop there – it could have sex at the drop of a hat again.
life. When you feel a failure, that has an will be a continuous worry for him. The Tony quickly became the person he used
effect on the whole family. next time there’ll be even more pressure. to be. Less stressed, less grumpy with
Rachael would say, “I don’t know why I think Tony began to feel quite lost. everyone. He was just so much lighter
you are making such a big deal out of it. He had been very manly with a very and happier.
We are a couple – am I that shallow?” But high sex drive, and to lose that feeling Sex has never been a babymaking
she also understood that to me it was a was hard for him. Being aware of the age exercise for us. It’s always been about
massive deal. Even her saying to me, “I gap between us probably didn’t help. We having a connection, having an intimate
understand what you are going through. are very open with each other so luckily, time with each other. Over the years, we
I still love you,” couldn’t change anything. unlike some couples, we were able to talk have really evolved as a couple and we
In the end it had to be, “Let’s talk about about it. We did try Viagra, but we have have brought three lovely children into
how we are going to deal with this.” three children. What are you going to the world. We have grown together
A friend suggested a consultation do? You pop a tablet and then you hear, – and being able to talk about subjects
with a clinic called Optimale. Speaking “Mummy, I need my bum wiping,” and like this has made us even closer.

a daily 5mg tablet of the drug tadalafil, a and looking forward to life. Now I’ve got person,” he says. “I’d get stressed about
drug which temporarily increases blood that back.” driving into town and finding a parking
flow to the penis. Sometimes the symptoms Foster sees space, anxious about answering the
“I don’t want to talk about me and are much harder to interpret. Stephen phone, even to friends. In terms of libido,
Davina in the bedroom department, Webb, 52, is a self-described “cheeky it wasn’t exactly floppy-willy time, but
but let’s just say my libido improved. chappie”. It’s partly why he was cast in I lost desire there too.”
It did good things for us.” Why is Channel 4’s reality TV show Gogglebox Webb had been to see his regular
Douglas speaking out now? Because between 2013 and 2023. The Brighton- GP and was told his symptoms were all
he believes that too many men are based hairdresser used to enjoy running part of growing old. He also signed up
suffering in silence. but he consulted Foster in 2023 after for six sessions of counselling after it was
“Men are just not good about experiencing high levels of anxiety. suggested he was depressed.
talking about their health,” he says. “I went from running a half-marathon “I knew I wasn’t depressed,” he
“I was used to waking up each morning most weekends to this very anxious says. “And then I read the chapter on

The Times Magazine 39


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testosterone in Jeff Foster’s book Man me she believes that the proliferation of
Alive and all the symptoms fitted mine.” ‘IT’S THE KIND OF RESPONSE adolescents with gender anxiety issues
“Testosterone affects almost every might be partly explained by similar
cell in your body,” Foster says. “It has WOMEN USED TO HEAR sexual disinformation on social media.
this reputation as the hormone that makes
you angry if you have too much, but the
WHEN TRYING TO GET HRT’ “If you are bombarded with content
telling you you should have a penis
converse is also true. Without enough, this size, or enjoying nonstop sex all
men are like postmenopausal women. In 2017, a year after experiencing weekend, then is it any wonder some
It can affect sex drive, ability to gain the benefits of testosterone replacement children decide, ‘I don’t recognise myself
muscle, mood, even memory.” therapy (TRT), Kennett and his in those stereotypes, so I’m opting out.’ ”
Perhaps Foster’s most extraordinary brother set up Optimale, a testosterone So when should men be worried and
patient was a man in his seventies who replacement therapy clinic. Since when not?
was suffering with memory problems. partnering with Manual, a London “For many men, having an erection is
In fact, when he went to his regular GP, men’s health startup, they have become part of what makes you a guy – it makes
he was diagnosed with dementia. That is, one of the largest TRT clinics in the you intrinsically masculine. So if you want
until his family paid for him to see Foster. country, he claims, treating 5,000 men. to carry on and enjoy it there are options,”
“I prescribed long-action testosterone “We think only 1 per cent of men in Foster says. “For some men and their
shots every 9-12 weeks and his faculties the UK who have low testosterone are partners, declining sexual activity is
were restored,” he beams. being treated for it,” he says. “It affects a not an issue. Good for them. I know my
Middle-aged men are one thing, but huge number of men, and most of them wife worries when I say this, but I hope
millennial men (those aged late twenties have no idea that this is an issue that they to still be having great sex when I’m in
to early forties) can also be affected. are facing.” my nineties.”
This is unusual, since testosterone levels Meanwhile, back in Leamington Spa, Men may flock to Foster’s clinic,
generally begin to decline in men only Jeff Foster has some salutary observations but the “manopause” is hotly contested
when they reach 30 and even then at about young men who almost certainly do territory in the culture wars. Last year the
a rate of just one per cent a year. But not need to worry about their testosterone broadcaster and menopause campaigner
that was not the experience of Alastair or sexual performance. These are younger Mariella Frostrup wrote, “This is nothing
Kennett, now aged 35 and a former men still – often older Gen Z (roughly up short of a land grab. A ludicrous and
NHS physiotherapist. He was just 27 to the age of 27) – a cohort almost too blatant appropriation of women’s midlife
when he first experienced a variety of clued up about sex. Gen Z have navigated health problems.”
troubling symptoms. their sexual development under the “Our argument is: this is not a
“I would yawn all through work,” he warping influence of both internet porn competition,” Foster says. “If one person
recalls. “And if I went to the gym in the and social media and their expectations feels terrible and the other is OK, that
evening I would just sit there, exhausted. sometimes alarm Foster. can destroy a relationship. The menopause
At night it would take me two hours to “When I was growing up you really does affect all women whereas only
fall asleep and I started to get quite bad had to make a considerable effort to a quarter of men are affected by
anxiety at work. My libido was dropping. see a porno mag,” he says. “Young men testosterone deficiency, but we don’t
I had this feeling of depression and low nowadays are bombarded with porn and know enough about it because men
mood but for no reason at all. I had a therefore think they should be having are reticent about their own health. You
girlfriend, good friends.” sex ten times a night. Or they think their can argue that despite having the run of
Kennett took a blood test and penis should be bigger. There is no doubt medicine for the past few centuries – both
discovered his testosterone levels were we are seeing younger men coming in as practitioners and policymakers – men
low. In fact, his brother David, two years asking for testosterone, but if you are still die earlier than women in all aspects
older than Alastair, was also struggling under 30 it is very unlikely you need it.” of health. Part of it is genetic, part of it
with the same symptoms and they I speak to David Joyce, 20 – not a is lifestyle, but a part is poor planning by
later discovered their father suffered patient of Foster’s – who, after becoming the health fraternity.”
a deficiency in the hormone too. anxious about his sexual performance, Foster’s health MOT is expensive
“I suspect there is a genetic element,” bought Viagra on the internet. He even though. Isn’t this privatisation by the back
STYLING: HANNAH ROGERS. HAIR AND MAKE-UP: JULIA WREN USING SKINCEUTICALS AND

he speculates. However, two weekly considered penis enlargement surgery. door? “You could ask your GP for all
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testosterone injections totalling 120mg “My first serious girlfriend at uni the same blood tests we do. In fact, if you
have changed his life. “I was suddenly a broke up with me and I talked myself go and see any consultant privately they
lot more assertive and confident at work,” into thinking it was to do with how should be offering the same principle of
he says. “My energy levels skyrocketed. often we had sex and also my penis size. work in the NHS, otherwise they shouldn’t
I started falling asleep within about ten I thought it was something that I could be doing it. But let’s face it, the standard
minutes. My brother saw the same thing.” fix either with surgery or supplements. GP appointment is about eight minutes.
Kennett is highly sceptical of the A lot of boys my age think that way. The We take an hour and a half and the
standard NHS response to testosterone gym is where you develop this mindset outcomes speak for themselves.”
deficiency. Many GPs, he claims, are that says, ‘You should be shagging all Michael Douglas sounds perky. After
dismissive of men’s concerns. They assume night, so do what you need to do to make we speak, once he and McCall finish
they are bodybuilders wanting to build it happen.’ ” filming, they plan to go out to dinner.
muscle and he has heard of some men In the end Joyce opted not to have “Before I got checked out I wouldn’t
being told, “You can grow a beard, so you enlargement surgery after having have wanted to go,” he says. “I’ve got
don’t have low testosterone.” counselling. He now accepts there is my mojo back and, when you get to
It’s also complicated by the fact that nothing wrong with his body or his your fifties, nothing matters more than
many symptoms present as depression performance. “There is so much bullshit being healthy and enjoying your life.
and men are prescribed medication out there, it has been a nightmare talking I say this to all men: the age when we
for low mood instead. “It’s the kind of myself back into the right headspace suffered nobly in silence, then conked
response that women used to hear when again,” he says. out with a heart attack, is gone. Get
trying to get HRT,” he says. Speaking anonymously, one GP told yourself checked out.” n

The Times Magazine 41


ONE MUM, TWO DADS,
TWO HOUSES
(6,800 MILES APART),
ONE BABY
.
Ellie Fazan reached 40 single and fearing she
would never have a child – until she asked her
friend, Eddie, left, if he would be a co-parent.
The only problem? He lives in the Philippines
and is in a relationship with Jack, right.
What happened next? Say hello to Sid, aged one…

From left: Eddie, Ellie, baby Sid, now one,


and Jack, photographed by
Jooney Woodward at home in east London
hey say it takes a village had A* sperm. I had a good egg reserve

T
to raise a child. “A vineyard, IN GREAT SPIRITS, and decent anti-Müllerian hormone score
more like,” jokes Eddie. He
and his partner, Jack, are the WE ORDERED A HOME (which can be indicative of egg quality) for
someone my age. She said there was no
fathers of my baby, Sid, and
we’re having family lunch
INSEMINATION KIT ON reason we wouldn’t get pregnant easily. In
great spirits, we ordered some ovulation
for the first time in our new
kitchen in east London. Warm
AMAZON FOR £23.99 sticks and a home insemination kit from
Amazon for £23.99. The accompanying
bread and crisp rosé are laid leaflet recommended lying with your legs
out on our recently installed “would drive to deliver”. I cried over wine. up and watching a funny film or getting
pink and gold flecked terrazzo worktop. I made a free account at Cryos International your partner to cuddle you, thus releasing
Meanwhile, our son has somehow got the – the world’s largest sperm bank, based in pregnancy-inducing feel-good endorphins.
lid off a jar of peanut butter and has his Denmark, where prices for sperm begin So there we lay after injecting a syringe
little fist inside. at around £160. I paid an additional £200 of sperm: three of us, my legs up, watching
Sid will turn one in a few weeks and or so to see donors’ “extended profiles”. The Big Lebowski, while Jack stroked my
we are basking in the joy of our modern Here you can listen to voice recordings arm. Why wouldn’t I be pregnant? Nothing
family after combining our assets to and favour certain people with a red heart happened. We tried again the next month.
turn a neglected former council house icon. It felt like internet dating all over And the month after that. Nothing.
on the fringes of Hackney into a home. again. And I knew I wanted to have a The mood shifted and we decided
Sid and I have the top floor, with a spare special bond with the father of my baby on IVF. Google informed me that even
room for visiting grannies; the boys have and for my baby to have a special bond 40-year-old straight couples regularly
their own space, including a bathroom with that person too. In the past I’d joked copulating are unlikely to get pregnant
and a grown-up sitting room; and the with various gay friends that, “If I haven’t within a year and IVF has only about a
downstairs is a big open-plan family space met someone by the time I’m 40, let’s…” 10 per cent success rate for a woman at
with a (wipeable) mint green floor. One of those friends telling me that he this age. But, I reasoned, they were not
Not that it is always easy. We are three was having a baby with someone else was reflective of our situation. Most couples
fortysomething adults with our own way my catalyst for action. So I took a deep having IVF had fertility problems. We were
of doing things. We share much – a love of breath and emailed Eddie. doing IVF because we couldn’t have sex.
food, travel, hosting, family, music and, of I had no idea if he’d say yes, whether As we weren’t entitled to treatment
course, Sid – but it’s the small things we he’d want to be a donor or a dad, but on the NHS, we looked at private clinics
trip on. Like, what time to eat: I prefer to I knew he’d be a great role model. I chose where costs soon spiral into tens of
eat early with Sid and then do his bedtime; to overlook the fact that he lived in the thousands. At one of these I discovered
they prefer to feed Sid and eat afterwards. Philippines for six months of the year and I had adenomyosis and that could
Or which drawer the cheese grater should had Jack to consider. I wrote to Eddie that also affect the chances of an embryo
live in. I am the primary caregiver and I didn’t know how involved he would want implanting. They recommended an MRI
take the lead on day-to-day decisions to be as a father, but it was important to scan. More money. More time. At another
regarding Sid, but they have two voices me that my child had an origin story and consultation with a clinic in Denmark that
that must be heard, which can at times be I would like someone with whom to share specialised in treating single women we
difficult to navigate. Eddie and Jack have the experience. I couldn’t believe it when were told that as Eddie wasn’t my partner,
been a couple for 20 years and they even he wrote back saying yes. “Jack and I have his sperm would have to be quarantined
share a language that I do not speak: already been talking about a new direction for three to six months at a cost of more
Tagalog. Eddie is Filipino and the boys for our life with children. But we felt that than £1,000. Furthermore, as a known
run a business in the Philippines. It’s been while a child can get full love and care from donor rather than my partner, Eddie would
a huge sacrifice for them, moving their two male parents, it’s more fulfilling to be not legally be considered the child’s father.
lives from a paradisiacal island there a supporting father to a child that has the We decided to say we were a
to a shabby council estate here. Every love of their mother. I would love to be couple from now on and found a highly
time I look out at another wet summer part of your life decision and want to be recommended clinic in eastern Europe
day, I worry this won’t work out. involved in any possible way. I will support where IVF was a third of the cost in
It was back in 2020 that I summoned whatever you need from the start.” the UK. It was only once we were there
the courage to ask Eddie, one of my oldest We didn’t enter the arrangement signing papers that I read the small print
friends, if he’d be the father of my child. We lightly. This may sound ludicrously and realised we’d chosen a country where
met working in a restaurant in Edinburgh idealistic, but we worked on separate it was illegal to treat both single women
20 years ago. After university, I moved to manifestos for the future to check we and homosexual couples. Luckily, Jack
London. Eddie met Jack and they moved were on the same page, then went on wasn’t there with us. Filling in the form
to the Philippines where they started holiday, where in between hiking, eating I froze: I couldn’t remember Eddie’s birth
a business taking guests to the remote and swimming, we spent time going over a date. Was he really called Eddie on his
islands of Palawan on traditional bangka co-parenting document downloaded from passport, they asked me. I was convinced
boats. We remained firm friends and a the internet. There is no legal basis to we’d been found out and I’d be thrown
baby wasn’t even a consideration. Then, these kinds of agreements, but it forced us into jail. And so, completely joylessly,
when I was 38, Covid put an end to years to focus on the awkward details – living I began the hardest year of my life,
of unsuccessful dating. For the first time arrangements, finances, childcare, schools, filling myself with hormones derived from
ANDREW CROWLEY/THE TELEGRAPH

I faced up to the very real possibility that life insurance, wills – and felt like a good human urine and Chinese hamster ovary
I’d never have a child. I discovered a hole starting place. “Why don’t all prospective cells. I blamed Eddie for not having to go
inside me. I had so much love to give and parents have to do this?” we joked. (But through this. Jack did my injections (“At
no one to give it to. I felt a real, deep grief. actually, it’s not a joke, is it?) least one of us gets to stick something in
I signed up for a site where you can If this stage was demanding, getting you,” he joked), but I felt so alone.
meet potential donors or co-parents. pregnant turned out to be a journey that We tried two gruelling, crushing
Most of my messages were from men who tested us to the limits. It started out well. – and failed – rounds there, followed
offered “natural insemination only” and We consulted a fertility specialist: Eddie by a third back in a London clinic. After

44 The Times Magazine


During Ellie’s pregnancy last year
the childbirth coach whether contractions
hurt.” But there’s still a long way to go.
Back in January, for example, Eddie
was clearly increasingly unhappy in
London – who could blame him? – so
we agreed the boys should go back to the
Philippines to tend to their business. Sid
and I joined them in February for a three-
month adventure. There the boys are well
established with their friends and lives.
While Sid thrived there – their home is a
paradise that I love too – it is remote and
only accessible by boat or by foot. I was
lonely. Paradoxically, parenthood has
changed the dynamic between us. We
are so focused on the minutiae of Sid’s
life now, it can feel like our old carefree
camaraderie is gone. When Sid developed
an egg allergy in the Philippines it pushed
me to the point of neurosis. I lay awake
at night thinking about all the things that
could kill him, and how we would get to a
hospital in an emergency.
Now back in London, Sid is getting
bigger every day and the boys can
take on more childcare. Last weekend
I even had my first solo trip away, four
glorious days in Ibiza with my girlfriends.
EDDIE, AS BIOLOGICAL FATHER, CONTRIBUTES The boys soon go back to the Philippines,
FINANCIALLY; JACK AND I BOUGHT THE HOUSE to oversee the closing of the tourist
season, and they’ve filled the freezer
with mum and baby sized meals. I love
which I was told by a doctor – charm life off work – something my meagre self- them being here, but I admit, I am also
personified when he took our money and employed maternity allowance wouldn’t looking forward to time alone with Sid,
told us that anything was possible – that, have done – and will continue to make a when we can fall into our own rhythm.
“You’ve just passed a point where your contribution after that. Jack, who in our Of course, there are still a million
eggs aren’t good enough any more.” initial discussions saw himself more as an what-ifs and unanswered questions. What
Completely broken, I took six weeks off uncle figure, has blossomed into a loving if I meet someone? Can I build a career
work and went on a roadtrip in America parent. I’m only able to write this story that pays the mortgage but is flexible
with a friend. The boys went back to the because he’s playing with Sid, teaching him enough to let me and Sid spend plenty of
Philippines. We didn’t speak. However, to bash his tambourine with what I hope time in the Philippines in winter, at least
we had one ray of hope left, on ice in the is a clean toilet brush. As Jack’s role has until school age? We agreed – before he
eastern European clinic where we were no legal basis, to redress the balance, he was born – that Sid would go to school in
technically criminals. We decided – with and I have bought the new house together. the UK. But now he’s a real living being,
no hope or expectations left whatsoever We all share cooking, household I sense the boys would like us to go and
– to book in for implantation. By some duties and childcare as much as possible, live – at least for a year or two – with
miracle, it worked. We were overjoyed, changing course when things don’t go to them, so he can properly experience life
but it took time for us to realign. plan. We had thought, for example, that there. And what if, when Sid grows up,
Sid was born at Homerton University at six weeks I would move Sid on to a he wants to run away and live with his
Hospital on July 2, 2023. A beautiful elfin bottle so we could evenly share feeding dads? As three parents, there are times
creature with Eddie’s brow and my dimple time, but I’d underestimated the powerful we disagree: in fact, we’ve just had our
in his chin. I’ve never felt love like it. urges of motherhood. I kept breastfeeding, first row over Sid. Something silly.
It was Pride weekend and London was and for ease Sid and I co-slept as well. I responded badly. But as friends we
decorated with rainbow flags in his We still do. I know both boys found this could talk it out over wine and resolve it.
honour. Then, three days later, he was hard, becoming envious of our special I am determined not to let these
rushed to a neonatal intensive care unit bond. Although to their credit, they didn’t worries spoil things. My parents have been
(NICU) with an infection. Eddie shuttled let it show. big influences in my life. I credit them
back and forth with food and forced It sometimes rankles that the invisible with my adventurous nature, the ability
smiles. But as only parents were allowed slog of parenthood inevitably falls to to see that anything is possible. I am
into the NICU, Jack was shut out. In the me. When Sid is sick, I’m up all night. from a big family: my brother and both
end, I pleaded with the matron and she Same goes for the boring baby admin sisters have each had a baby boy this year
made an exception for “one mum, two like applying for our free childcare hours – there are nine cousins in total – and
dads”. It was a terrifying start to his life, or folding and refolding his things. Despite even though I’d love for Sid to have a
from which he mercifully recovered. bucking the norm, we’ve still fallen into sibling, he’s already part of a football team.
Eddie, as biological father, is named on the gendered motherhood trap. Even I’m proud of my queer family. Despite the
Sid’s birth certificate, conferring parental with our eyes open to it, it’s hard work challenges, I’d do it again in a heartbeat
rights and responsibilities. He makes a to dig your way out. As Jack said recently, – or one of Sid’s, which are faster than
significant financial contribution that has “We’ve come a long way since we were mine. He is the light of our life and the
enabled me to take the first year of Sid’s sitting on the sofa in your flat and I asked centre of our global village. n

The Times Magazine 45


COUNCIL ESTATE IN INVERNESS
TO HOLLYWOOD HIDEAWAY
(she took her mum and dad with her!)
In Britain, Karen Gillan is best known as Matt Smith’s assistant in Doctor
Who. But in America, she’s the highly bankable star of the Marvel and Jumanji
franchises – making her one of the most successful leading actors of all time.
Now she’s back on British screens with Hugh Bonneville in the cancel-culture
drama that everyone’s talking about. Stephen Armstrong meets her
Karen Gillan, 36,
photographed by Eva Pentel.
Styling: Hannah Rogers.
Opposite: co-starring with
Hugh Bonneville in new ITV
drama Douglas Is Cancelled
Gillan with Matt Smith in Doctor Who, 2012

K
aren Gillan is the nation’s least go to school and be so quiet and so scared
likely superstar. Even after an to talk to anyone because I perceived it
hour in her company, you’d all as a potential threat,” she smiles wryly.
probably never guess she “I’m still like that. Sometimes I’ll be at
is the 21st most successful a dinner party and someone asks me a
leading actor of all time. question and I just go into fight-or-flight
As the damaged semi- mode. I don’t know why it happens. But
android assassin Nebula, for some reason, when I got up in front
she co-starred in the second- of people to act, it just melted away. Some
highest grossing film to people have a few drinks; I get on stage.”
date, Avengers: Endgame. With all her So she spent her spare time making
Marvel movies, the Jumanji franchise and horror films on a video camera in her
appearances in The Big Short, Judd Apatow’s bedroom and her Saturdays at a drama
The Bubble and alongside Tom Hanks club. Then, when she was 13, she was
in The Circle, her roles have amassed a watching Who Wants to Be a Millionaire? With Dwayne Johnson in Jumanji: Welcome to the Jungle
worldwide take of more than $10 billion. with her dad when Judith Keppel became
The only Brits more bankable in the first Brit to win £1 million.
leading roles are Tom Holland and Emma “My dad said, ‘She’s in the right
Watson. At the age of 36, Gillan’s box- headspace. A lot of people need the money
office take outranks that of Harrison Ford, and buckle under the pressure. They won’t
Benedict Cumberbatch, Brad Pitt, Jennifer risk going all the way. You need to live in
Lawrence, Julia Roberts and Sylvester her headspace.’ ” She pauses and smiles at
Stallone. In 2020 and 2021, she was the the memory. “And I have ever since. If you
most googled living Scottish celebrity, want to know how I got here, it’s my dad.
averaging two million searches a month. He made everything seem possible. He’s
This fact seems to surprise even Gillan my Eton, my secret weapon. Raymond
herself. “It just sounds crazy to hear that,” Gillan. Everyone should have one of those.”
she says. “Of course, I still have moments This made her feel so invincible that As Nebula in Guardians of the Galaxy, 2013
of awareness. Mostly you forget that what when she was 17 she moved to London
you’re doing is going out into the world to study at the Italia Conti drama school,
because it’s just your job. Humans adapt dropped out after two months for a part in
really quickly, right? But then you go to a Rebus, then ended up working in a pub in
premiere and they’ve shut down Hollywood south London and doing a little modelling.
Boulevard and you’re like, oh, yes, this is She was still convinced she could make
LONDON. GILLAN WEARS COAT, MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION (MICHAELKORS.COM). EARRINGS, DINOSAURDESIGNS.CO.UK. SUNGLASSES, GIVENCHY.COM

a really big deal.” it. Even when, for one modelling job, she
But sitting in a quiet basement in a had to wear a bucket over her head as the
PREVIOUS SPREAD: SALLY MAIS/ITV. MAKE-UP: KELLY CORNWELL AT A-FRAME USING ARMANI. HAIR: MIGUEL PÉREZ AT A-FRAME USING MONPURE

photo studio in north London, it feels client thought it would make sure people
like I’m talking to… well, a working-class focused on the shoes she was wearing.
girl from Inverness who is bright, bubbly
and brimming with as many questions as
answers. She landed from the West Coast ‘I’LL BE AT A DINNER PARTY AND
of America barely 48 hours ago and has
been working since she stepped off the GO INTO FIGHT-OR-FLIGHT MODE’
plane. She must be exhausted, but she’s
upbeat, charming and curious during the I tell her I’m having trouble making property. She went from pulling pints
shoot, recommending clothes and eagerly sense of her extreme confidence in and modelling with her head in a bucket
asking everyone for tips on plays and heading to London to seek her fortune to being recognised on the streets and
musicals she should see while she’s here. versus her terror of speaking to fellow mobbed at San Diego’s Comic-Con. “I was
I think I see her yawn once, but it might pupils. “I know, I often think about that,” used to being a normal 21-year-old getting
just be her laughing. She laughs a lot. she says. “Imagine a flight attendant with drunk with my friends and suddenly there
Now the pictures are done, she settles a phobia of flying who loves being in the were photographers following me around,”
into a chair opposite me, pulling a large air. I got over those nerves by forcing she explains. “I had to be careful or going
black coat over her tracksuit because the myself to do it over and over again. I’m to the pub would end up being a story
air conditioning is a little brutal. While I’m not as confident as I was back then. I’m that I was going off the rails. I’d wanted
fumbling with my Dictaphone she chats always comparing myself with my 17-year- to be a success, but Doctor Who is a very
about gossip from Good Morning Britain old self, like, how do I get back there?” particular kind of success. Like, I really
in an accent with no trace of mid-Atlantic Then she was cast as the Doctor’s didn’t expect to have to sign dolls of me.”
twang. Good Morning Britain? “I watch it assistant Amy Pond in Doctor Who and Fortunately, her co-stars Matt Smith and
every day on BritBox,” she says proudly. life became very strange indeed. After Arthur Darvill, who played her on-screen
“It helps me control my homesickness.” she’d got the job, she went back to Inverness husband, Rory, were also newcomers to
Home is written through her like a “with two guys from the BBC, and once celebrity. The three of them felt like a
stick of rock. She grew up on a council they’d told my parents, one of them said gang – friends thrown into the storm.
estate, her mum working in Tesco and something on his phone and within an They’re still close and get together for
her dad working in a care home for people hour there were journalists knocking on drinks whenever they’re in the same city,
with learning difficulties. Money was tight our door”. She still seems slightly amazed. alongside showrunner Steven Moffat, who
but her dad made her believe she was “My mum was on her lunch break from cast Smith and created Pond and Rory.
capable of achieving anything she wanted. Tesco and had to get through the And Moffat is the reason she’s talking
This mattered because Gillan was – journalists to go back to work.” to me. She’s returned to British TV purely
and still is – filled with social anxiety. “I’d After that, Gillan’s life was public because he’s written a script she loves

48 The Times Magazine


changes, which is good, and I believe in all the time,” she says with a grin. They
positive reinforcement and acknowledging went for a drink, started dating and after
the changes that have been made. But the making it through lockdown they were
way I look at it is, we’re never going to married in Scotland in 2022 at a wedding
get rid of people who want to abuse power. where Robert Downey Jr and Julia
There’s always going to be a percentage Roberts rubbed shoulders with Steven
of people who are that way inclined. What Moffat and pals from Inverness.
we need to do is sort the systems that The couple now live in a cottage in
allow them to get into power in the first Studio City decorated with a “cosy old
place. We need to figure out how not to pub” vibe, all floral wallpaper and built-in
give psychopaths leadership positions.” bookshelves so that when Gillan is on
When Gillan arrived in Hollywood in Zoom, people assume she’s back in Scotland.
2012 for a role in the horror film Oculus, It also houses her collection of Karen
it was more her loneliness that bothered Gillan dolls – as Amy Pond, Nebula and
her about the industry. She was 24, had Ruby Roundhouse from Jumanji.
everything in a suitcase, didn’t know anyone “I bought them all at one point from
and was living in a horrible apartment Amazon. Now, I don’t know what to do
that was burgled. She was homesick and with them and it looks a bit narcissistic.”
found the dating scene intimidating. After She doesn’t have the muscles from her
six months, being cast as Nebula for the Marvel superhero training any more, but
first Guardians of the Galaxy certainly she keeps fit with a Pilates session every
helped, but while the success and the morning on a reformer machine in a
money stacked up, she missed her parents. small home gym. While working out she
In the end, after finishing directing her watches reality TV to sate her Love Island
With her partner, the writer and first movie, The Party’s Just Beginning, set addiction. Then she’s either filming or
comedian Nick Kocher, in 2019
in Inverness in 2017, she moved them out pulling films together – she’s no Reese
to California to join her. Lots of movie stars Witherspoon mogul, but making films,
– ITV’s new drama Douglas Is Cancelled. buy fast cars, flashy houses or develop whether directing or producing, is taking
The show follows Hugh Bonneville’s expensive addictions. Gillan paid to have up more of her time than acting right now.
national-treasure newscaster accused of her mum and dad nearby. They came We talk about the election and she
telling a sexist joke at a wedding. He was over to look after her house while she was carefully avoids backing any political party.
so drunk he can’t remember what he said filming in another country and stayed, “I’ve been watching Good Morning Britain
and everyone hopes it will all blow over. living near enough to pop in anytime. for the highlights of the UK debates,”
Then his co-host, Madeline, played by “One of the hard things about living in she says, watching me cautiously. “I just
Gillan, starts supporting him in ways that the States was not being able to see them want to support the working classes. So
seem certain to destroy him. Or do they? regularly, so we just thought, ‘Why does whoever does that the best. In the arts, for
Part of Gillan’s skill is in concealing it need to be different now? We can just instance, there are great actors out here
right up until the last five minutes of the continue seeing each other on a Sunday.’ ” from Eton. They’re good, but they’re all
series what exactly she’s up to. The reveal She smiles. “It was the least I could do for very similar. We need variety. The problem
is going to excite conversations and burn them after all the monologues they had to is, anyone who wants power is by definition
up the zeitgeist in the way The Morning sit through in the living room.” the worst person to have it.” She smiles.
Show did, but it’s a darker, subtler piece Her father loves the West Coast and “Which brings me back to my point about
of work. After years playing action heroes, helps run her fan club, while her mother, screening out the psychopaths.”
Gillan’s suddenly acting her socks off in Marie, from Easterhouse, makes sure I watch her as she chats and wonder
a show that asks unexpected questions her daughter doesn’t fall prey to even the how she manages to be so successful and
about cancel culture. Quite the shift, I say. slightest American twang, but often talks seem so unconcerned by it, to talk about
“It’s incredibly current,” she nods. “I about moving back to Scotland. class consciousness when thinking about
mean, cancel culture has always existed Gillan herself felt slightly more rooted voting and happily admit to watching
to a degree, but social media has made in Hollywood when fate – in the form of Good Morning Britain every day. There’s
it faster and more irrational. It’s the the Instagram algorithm – stepped into a hack phrase about the upwardly mobile
dopamine hit of anger and outrage. Steven her love life and in 2019 presented her – you can take the girl out of the council
Moffat says it’s only good people who can with the comedian Nick Kocher, a writer estate, it begins. With Karen Gillan,
be cancelled. If you’re genuinely bad, you on Saturday Night Live as well as one half she holds Inverness inside her as if it’s
don’t give a shit.” of the sketch troupe BriTANick. precious, something to be treasured. She
Given she started acting when she was “I was so single and not meeting anyone,” plans to lure Nick back there in the end.
19 and arrived in Hollywood pre-#MeToo, she says, blushing. “I did not get on with “I feel at home when I come back to
I assume she has her own stories of dodgy the American dating scene. Then he the UK. I just really like seeing all the
men and uncomfortable casting sessions. was presented as a recommended friend. familiar faces on TV and feeling like I’m
“I was definitely aware of it,” she says. I looked him up on YouTube and he was not out of the loop on the goings-on,” she
“I haven’t had any first-hand experiences funny, so eventually I just slid into his DMs. says. “This still feels like home even though
but you’re only ever one person removed I’ve never done that before in my life.” so many people that I love are over there
from a story. We all knew about it. It Her opening message was “the most now [in the States]. But it’ll be over one
certainly wasn’t rare. I look back and boring thing ever”, she says, shaking her day and then I’ll come back. All my best
wonder about not speaking out. Is silence head. “What I received back was a writer’s mates are still in Inverness, so I’ll get a
complicity? We could all ask ourselves that.” fully formed response. He’d got his writer little cottage up in the Highlands and just
Does she think the industry has friends to gather round and I could tell. do that for the rest of my life.” n
changed since #MeToo? She pauses. Too well constructed. Trying too hard.”
“There’s a way to go everywhere, to Fortunately, he made the first move to Douglas Is Cancelled continues on ITV1 on
be honest… I’m seeing a lot of positive meet up in real life – “I can’t lead the way Thursday at 9pm

The Times Magazine 49


Pout! 10 BEST BUYS FOR FINE HAIR By Nadine Baggott

6
As someone who lost a lot of volume THE SUPER SPRAY
on top during lockdown, I understand Living Proof Full Dry
how fine and thinning hair can wreck Volume & Texture Spray
your self-esteem. I would always (From £16; livingproof.co.uk)
recommend having a blood test to check This is the best volumising dry spray
your nutritional and hormonal levels and bar none. Simply shake the can and
discover the underlying cause of hair loss, spray about 6in from your roots, then
but in the meantime these products can ruffle your fingers through your hair and
make a visible difference. voilà – it doubles in size without stickiness
or having to blow-dry or style. It also adds

1
THE SCIENCE-BACKED oomph for updos and post-gym days.
SOLUTION

7
Regaine for Women THE MAGICAL MOUSSE
Extra Strength Scalp Color Wow Xtra Large
Foam (£50 for a four-month Bombshell Volumizer
supply; boots.com) (£24; uk.colorwowhair.com)
This is the best product Hairstylists will tell you that
you can buy over the nothing volumises during blow-
counter, clinically proven drying better than a mousse, but
to work for women with hormonal hair we tend to think of them as old-
loss by increasing blood flow to follicles school and sticky. Well, not this
and helping them to stay in the growing one. This foam adds oomph and holding
phase for longer. Foam is the easiest way power to hair but leaves it easy to brush
to apply it – once a day, morning or night. and comb; nor does it feel tacky to touch.
Do shop around for the best price because

8
once you start using Regaine, you will THE SCALP SOLUTION
need to keep using it or your hair goes RevitaLash Volume Enhancing
Margot Robbie
back to its old shedding pattern. Foam (£125; spacenk.com)
A prostaglandin analogue applied

2
THE SHAMPOO WITH ADDED BENEFITS

4
THE PARTING POWER-UP to the scalp can help extend the life
Head & Shoulders DermaxPro Nanogen Keratin Hair cycle of your hair, allowing it to grow
Scalp Care Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Fibres (£24 for a two- for longer. RevitaLash has cornered
(£5.99; superdrug.com) month supply; boots.com) the market in lash-growth serums and
Recent research has shown that dandruff This clever powder now it has supersized the formula and
can weaken the hair and even contains tiny fibres that put it into a foam to make it easier to
compromise growth, so choose mimic hair growth on the apply to the scalp. Expensive, but worth
a shampoo like this one to scalp to instantly shrink a try if you have excessive hair shedding.
help tackle the problem at the wide partings and fill out thinning

9
earliest possible stage. The active hairlines and crowns. Yes, it is purely THE WEIGHTLESS CONDITIONER
ingredient, piroctone olamine, cosmetic and won’t help with regrowth, TreSemmé 1 Minute Wow!
works wonders on my itchy, flaky but the effect is impressive. Plus it comes Repair Intensive Treatment
scalp and you get great value for in a handy shaker applicator and there are (£4.99; boots.com)
money with this range. ten shades to choose from. There is also Biotin is a vitamin – B7 – that
a waterproofing spray if you need it. few of us are deficient in, but

3
THE CAFFEINE ‘CURE’ brands love to pop it into products

5
The Inkey List Caffeine THE VOLUMISER formulated for fine hair. That said, this is
Stimulating Scalp Treatment Vichy Dercos Technique a brilliant budget conditioner. It helps to
(£15; lookfantastic.com) Densi-Solutions Thickening smooth, detangle and add shine without
There is some evidence that Shampoo (£12.50; boots.com) weighing down fine and thinning hair.
caffeine can block the effect This contains a blend of sugars to

10
of a hormone called DHT in instantly volumise, and a silica-like THE PUNCHY POWDER
scalp cells, which can cause hair gel that bonds to damaged and VO5 Matt Finish Thickening
loss. The trouble is that most fine hair to make it feel and Powder (£3.33; boots.com)
caffeine shampoos are washed look thicker over time. It’s Hair powders work to absorb sebum
ELISABETH HOFF, GETTY IMAGES

away, so this savvy company recommended that you use from the scalp and coat your roots to
has formulated a sleep-in scalp it every day, which I know give grip to hair. They also separate
serum. While I am yet to be might be a problem if you’re strands to give a thicker appearance.
convinced of its effectiveness in female suffering hair shedding, but This is essentially the effect of dry
hair loss, I think at this price point it is with this special shampoo you shampoo, but the modern formulations
well worth a try and could help with will keep your scalp healthy come as dab-on scalp powders. This one
menopausal hair thinning. and get a volume boost. from VO5 is the best value around.

50 The Times Magazine


10 BEST BUYS FOR LIPS
From plumping balms to superlight fun. This is the perfect non-sticky formula.
sunscreens, tinted oils to holiday creamy It comes in an angled fine bullet for ease
colours, I’ve got all your summer lip of application and a flattering summer
problems solved, sealed and shaded. coral to match your tan.
Nothing high-maintenance here.

8
THE MATTE MASTER

1
THE BEST FOR DRY LIPS Avon Ultra Matte Lipstick
The Ordinary in Au Naturale (£8.50;
Squalane + Amino superdrug.com)
Acids Lip Balm Matte can be a hard look to carry
(£8.50; theordinary.com) off, but choose the right shade (and
This has been formulated do not spend a fortune) and you
to mimic the natural moisturising factors can achieve the ideal finish, colour
in healthy lips – in other words, to put and feel on your lips without drying
back what’s missing in dry, cracked or them out or breaking the bank. This range
dehydrated lips. It’s long-lasting, comes in from Avon is now available at Superdrug
a clever, squeezy round tube with a twist- and has some great shades that perform
off lid and works wonders. It should last like a really high-end brand.
you all summer and is perfect for planes,
trains, holidays and beyond. What’s more,
there’s zero stickiness.

2 9
THE SUPERCHIC TINT THE WATERPROOF WONDER
Naturium Phyto-Glow Refy Lip Sculpt (£18, in seven
Lip Balm in Latte shades; refybeauty.com)
(£12, in nine shades; spacenk.com) Having mastered brows, Refy has now
This glossy tinted balm has been moved on to lips, creating long-lasting
Zendaya
such a success that it now comes products that are a genuine pleasure to
in four new Café Collection shades wear. This is a unique product: it contains

5
– Mocha, Spice, Chai and Latte THE EASIEST LIP SPF a lip liner and a sealant that locks the
are perfect for darker complexions. Hello Sunday The One For colour in place. This makes it great for
They all work as lip glosses, but rather Your Lips SPF50 Lip Balm long days in the sun at the beach, by the
than simply coating the lips they are (£7; spacenk.com) pool or sweaty sightseeing.
delightfully nourishing as well. I don’t believe that SPF should be
sold at a premium and this is by

3
THE CULT LIP OIL far the best value at Space NK. It

10
Clinique Pop is unscented, so suitable for even THE LINE ERASER
Lip + Cheek Oil sun-sensitive lips. It has a glossy MAC Prep + Prime Lip
in Black Honey clear finish and stays put. (£22; maccosmetics.co.uk)
(£23.50; clinique.co.uk) This is not a new product, but it is still
The cult Black Honey brilliant. It is a waxy lip primer that blurs
lipstick now comes in a lines both on and around the lips, feels

6
must-have oil (tinted lip THE LIP LINER/STICK DUO comfortable and works on its own or
oils have taken over in 2024; they are Sculpted by Aimee Connolly Lip under lip colour. Great at hiding what are
everywhere). This is light enough for Duo Liner & Lipstick in Blush Blend known as “smoker’s lines” but actually
lips and cheeks (ie not too oily), and (£18, in eight shades; boots.com) have very little to do with the habit,
the flattering blackcurrant juice shade This clever single product contains a soft and are more about lip movement from
genuinely does suit everyone. liner and matching lip colour so you never speaking and sun damage. n
get that “Jenny from the block” old-school

4
THE POWER POWDER darker liner look. They have been chosen Find @nadinebaggott on Instagram and
Ciaté London Velvet to be very wearable; there’s nothing garish, YouTube where she answers all your
Cloud Weightless Lip but this nude shade is a standout low- beauty questions
Shadow (£18, in three shades; maintenance winner for me.
ciatelondon.com)

7
Yes, you read that right, THE PERFECT SUMMER SHADE
a lip powder. If you absolutely hate the Nars Afterglow Sensual Shine
sticky, glossy feel of most balms, this is Lipstick in Truth or Dare
the product for you. A weightless, creamy (£27; narscosmetics.co.uk)
powder that adds a blush of colour to lips A summer lipstick should be applied
and feels truly like you’re wearing nothing. without a mirror, ideally on the run
Very Bridgerton and very beautiful. to somewhere you are going to have

The Times Magazine 51


Eating out
Giles Coren
‘Julie’s used to be a “sex
restaurant”. And now
there are cosy booths in
which a couple or even a
threesome could easily…’
two or three messages a day on Instagram
Julie’s from people saying, “I have had no
reply from the editor of The Times, so
I am reaching out to ask about this pub
in Shropshire…”

M
y word, you chaps don’t And I’ve been replying to all of them,
leave it alone, do you? Months “It’s the Bear Inn! It’s the Bear bloody
ago, literally months, I was Inn in Hodnet! It’s fine, it’s totally fine.
rambling away on this page There was some asparagus and a nice
about the restaurants I had bit of ox cheek and our waitress was
been to recently that I planned absolutely brilliant but I have at least
to write up in the coming six pubs within a ten-minute walk of
weeks, such as “a good pub in my London front door where I can eat
Shropshire… a new Guizhou/Sichuan place better, so I’m struggling to summon up
in Bloomsbury and a small restaurant the enthusiasm. But if you’re nearby, go.
inside a fishmonger in north London…” I don’t know your standards; it may be the
and then I got on with the restaurant in best meal you’ll ever have.”
hand (I think it was Oma) and gave these And then things went quiet for a
others no further thought. few days. And I had time to reflect on
The following week, I wrote about how flattering it is that people read my
the Chinese, and dozens of you below reviews and pay such close attention
the line yodelled, “What about the pub and remember the details for all time.
in Shropshire?” and I replied, “Yeah, yeah, And I resolved to be more careful in
I’ll get round to it,” and thought no more future. But then yesterday, a big A4
about it. envelope arrived from The Times
And the following week I reviewed full of readers’ letters, which only get
the restaurant in the fishmonger and bagged up and posted every few weeks.
below the line there were still half a dozen I picked one up at random, a pale blue
of you going, “What about the pub in sheet of paper, covered in careful, spidery
Shropshire?” and I sort of half came clean handwriting that began, “Dear Mr Coren,
and said, “Look, it wasn’t all that amazing Some weeks ago you mentioned a pub
and I’ve kind of forgotten the details of it in Shropshire…”
now, but it’s the Bear in Hodnet. If you’re And I screamed aloud at the ceiling.
local, go, have a pint of Shropshire Gold, And then I opened the others. And
avoid the hispi cabbage.” they were ALL asking about the pub
TOM JACKSON

But then, the week after that, there in Shropshire that I had promised to
were STILL readers going, “What about write about. And if I don’t write about
the pub in Shropshire?” and I was getting it, I realised, this will never stop. So, my

52 The Times Magazine


mazey downstairs, which is a bar now
Julie’s with some cosy booths in which a couple
135 Portland Road, or even a threesome could easily, if they
London W11
(020 7229 8331;
wanted to…
juliesrestaurant.com) But anyway, the food. There are
Cooking 8 cocktails at £12-15 and snacks at £5-6.
Service 8 That is value in 2024. There is nice warm
Vibes 8 sourdough on a silver platter with a
Score 8 whipped flavoured butter that doesn’t
Price £60/head show on the bill. Again, value. And there
are plenty of starters for £14 or less, such
The Ebrington Arms as the chalk stream trout pastrami, which
May Lane, Ebrington,
is small but excellent: comes on like a
Gloucestershire
(01386 593223; the gravadlax but a blob of sharp mustard,
ebringtonarms.co.uk) some freshly pickled cucumber and a
The Bear Inn squit of sauerkraut push it in the beefy
Drayton Road, direction. There’s a chilled soup for £8
Hodnet, Shropshire (eight!) and eggs mollet (the comeback
(01630 685214; the dish of 2024 – see last week at Joséphine
bearinnhodnet.com) Bouchon) or buttered asparagus for £12.
For a bit more, there’s the duck liver
schnitzel with shallot marmalade and
quail’s egg (£19), which is every bit as
dear, darling readers, let me declare, once en passant a few weeks ago, Julie’s in cute and delicious as it sounds, though
and for all, that it was THE BEAR IN Notting Hill. It was historically a “sex I had to hit it with a salt bomb, and
HODNET that I went to and promised restaurant”, I wrote, quoting my friend a tuna tartare (£19) from the “Raw fish
to review and, in the end, did not. Have Camilla Long, and the only point in counter”, which was cubed rather large
you got that? THE BEAR IN HODNET. reviewing it would be to hammer it. for a tartare or even a ceviche, but was
Okay. Good. Except I can’t, annoyingly. Because quite generous.
And if you’re yammering for perfectly it’s great. I mean, I could. I could take the Now, moules frites for £15 sounds like
decent food boozers not in London mickey out of its long history as the site Belgo 20 years ago. But it’s not, it’s Julie’s,
(I know the whole “London” thing is a of extramarital assignations and wanton now. Sure, it’s not a vast bucket of moules
bit triggering for some of you), then I can pissuppery from bloated 1980s advertising and they are smallish ones, but how many
also broadly recommend the Ebrington execs. I could scoff at the daft privilege “front-bottoms of the sea” do you really
Arms in Ebrington, Gloucestershire, on and non-dom frilliness of the area, the want to eat? The shoestring fries were
which the Coren family recently centred gorgeous fabrics wrapped around the scattered over the top and it was a great
an eight-mile walk around the Ilmington almost exclusively female, wealthy summer lunch main with a big glass of
and Ebrington circular, in the Chipping clientele at the outside tables, or the albariño (£13) or a small one of condrieu
Campden part of the Cotswolds. equally gorgeous fabric wrapped around (£23) – although, for me, the roquefort
It’s a beautiful village and a beautiful everything inside. Or the lovely lady in sauce was too much for the wee shellfish
pub, with terrific old features and as good the most gorgeous fabric of all, coming (though grand with the chips) and a
an inglenook as you’ll see, with a cast-iron round to tell us that she was the new straight marinière option might be nice.
stove, stacked logs, Victorian earthenware owner and she hoped we had a good Best of all, though, was the lobster
jugs parked on a wooden pew, the whole time. But I won’t. Because the fact is that soufflé (£39), which was more expensive,
Cider with Rosie. Julie’s serves unexpectedly good food yes, because it’s a lobster bloody soufflé!
I had a pint of Bard’s Best, the at staggeringly fair prices. And I am a But this was no twee cylinder, rising out
whitebait were fresh, salt and pepper restaurant critic, and my job is to tell you of a dinky ramekin; this was a beautiful
squid with sriracha mayo was a neat that. No matter what. eggy cloud, free floating on a black iron
little snack, the burger was fine, Kitty’s I went with Tracey MacLeod who skillet of the most compelling fricassée,
steak was juicy, the lamb breast didn’t said, “It definitely was a sex restaurant,” rich with gruyère, sleek and peppery
quite come off, the chips were a bit floury, as she slid visibly away from me along with leeks, bustling with chunky lobster.
Esther didn’t like her halibut. Twenty the banquette, “but I don’t think it is any Salads and puds were excellent and well
years ago, it might have been the best more. These all look like bankers’ wives priced too, with a good tomato and basil
meal you’d get in the whole county. But to me. So in that sense Julie’s is still for £8 and spot-on crème caramel for
today, with ten of England’s best eating representing the locals as accurately the same. Tracey decided, after a second
pubs within half an hour of here by Land as it did in the 1980s and 1990s.” glass of the condrieu, that Julie’s was her
Rover, well, it’s definitely worth a stop Tracey used to come here a lot “new favourite restaurant”, and indeed,
if you’re walking the Ilmington and and we hummed and hawed over what to borrow a famous phrase from another
Ebrington circular. had changed. Mainly it’s the focus on legend of restaurant criticism, one who
And so to this week’s restaurant review, upstairs eating now, where it used to lived just round the corner, it was all
which is of another place I mentioned be all about dark sticky corners in the utterly historic. n

The Times Magazine 53


ESCAPE THE ORDINARY
Beta male
Robert Crampton
‘My reasons I think we all need cheering up, don’t
we? I know I do. Things have been feeling
another wedding – so that was nice. It
poured down, but nobody minded. Except

to be cheerful grim for quite a while now. Not personally


– I’m toddling along reasonably well.
I mean grim at the more macro level.
me, whose pink suit got soaked while
fetching my comfy shoes from the car
park after the ceremony.
in 2024. Things Politically, economically, meteorologically,
culturally, socially… England (and I mean
On Father’s Day, Sam and Rachel
treated me to a packet of shortbread
aren’t as bad as England, not Britain) has sunk into a
national depression. Covid, miscarriages of
biscuits, plus a card with all their pejorative
nicknames for their dad inscribed: Chud
they seem’ justice, pollution, quiet quitting, biblical
quantities of rain, it’s getting people down.
Meister General, Dudley Duo Flush,
Mediocre Journalist, Lowest Priority Key
So hey, how about this? Every two years, Worker, all the old faves. Life goes on.
in my office – and maybe in yours too – we At the wedding, the DJ played (not
all put in a fiver and predict the outcome entirely appropriately if you study the
of every match in the group stages at the lyrics) This Old Heart of Mine and,
Euros or World Cup. Three points for the spontaneously, the family formed a circle
correct scoreline, one point for the correct and all danced together: my wife and her
result, the winner stands to pocket £75. brothers, their partners, my kids and their
Far be it from me to indulge in gender- cousins, some with partners of their own,
based generalisations but, broadly speaking, Alex with Beth, his bride. It was quite a
the women tend to casually fill in a random moment. Reg, my father-in-law, the patriarch
sequence of 2-1s, 1-1s and 1-0s and, on at 85, did a turn in the middle of the circle.
occasion, wildly out there 6-3s, while we I found it superbly life-enhancing.
blokes pore over form, rankings, selections, Outside the rain lashed down.
memories of previous tournaments etc. That dancing, incidentally, gets
I waited, for example, for all the squads to recorded in the “other” column in my
be named before making my forecasts, as exercise stats, which at the midpoint
if, say, a late injury to the reserve Albanian of 2024 are better than last year, which
left-back might influence my judgment. is all you can ask. The “other” category is
In short, the women do it for a laugh; looking particularly good, which is a healthy
we men pretend to know what we’re doing. sign, because besides dancing, “other”
At the time of writing, the top five includes random fun stuff, such as climbing
positions on the leader board are occupied or paintballing, that isn’t gym or swim.
by women, with the top slot held by Lots of “other” exercise signals variety,
somebody’s mum, who kindly subbed in experimentation, risk.
for her daughter. I am languishing in mid- What else? Well, I’ve made a dozen
table mediocrity. So are the other male train journeys over the past month and,
footballing “experts” in our ranks, most of fair’s fair, only two were seriously delayed.
whom, back in the day, used to play six-a- No, three, actually. And three others were
side together. No wonder we were crap. moderately late. Still, not bad. I take what
In other news, I’ve been travelling far you might call the Isley Brothers approach
and wide recently (East Yorkshire, County to trains: yeah, they’ve broke this old heart
Durham, Nottinghamshire, Kent) and of mine a thousand times, “Never knowing
I must say, England has seldom looked if I’m coming or going” and so forth, but
more green and pleasant, the benefits of a each time I keep coming back for more.
saturated spring, plus “No Mow May”, plus My German classes have finished for
council budget cuts, I guess. The trees! The the summer, so that’s a blow, but at least
wildflowers! The weeds standing head high Tuesday evenings are freed up for the next
on the nation’s verges! three months. I paid a visit to my aunt
Even in the gritty old East End, my bus Isobel, 87 and in fine form, and she’s got
to work has to fight through overhanging another cat, which got me thinking that
branches, scraping the top deck as if the maybe, five months after the demise
Bethnal Green Road were a sunken lane in of Tiger (2006-2024, RIP), the official
the deepest countryside. Much longer and mourning period over, it might be time
London will turn into New York in I Am to get some kittens. Lucky, who survives
Legend, with Will Smith hunting deer on Tiger, would appreciate the company.
the prairies of Fifth Avenue. Or she might savage the new arrivals
DAN KENNEDY

But no zombies in cellars, I hope. to death. It’s hard to say. n


The East Yorkshire trip was for my
nephew’s marriage – another weekend, robert.crampton@thetimes.co.uk

© Times Media Limited, 2024. Published and licensed by Times Media Limited, 1 London Bridge Street, London SE1 9GF (020 7782 5000). Printed by Walstead Bicester Ltd, Oxfordshire. Not to be sold separately.

60 The Times Magazine


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