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Ijtamayi aur Sharai Nuqta e Nazar Se 1st
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CHAPTER XXXII.
 FOREIGN AND JEWISH COOKERY.

We had hoped to
have been able
without exceeding
the prescribed limits
of the present
volume to have
added here a
somewhat extensive
chapter on the cookery of other countries, and to have comprised in
it a section adapted to the service of the Jewish table; but we have
so much enlarged in the pages on the more important subject of
“Bread,” and on other matters which relate to simple English
domestic economy, that we find it necessary to depart from our
original intention, and to confine our receipts here to a comparatively
small number. This, however, is of the less consequence as so many
good and well tested foreign receipts, of which, from our own
experience, we can guarantee the success, are to be found in the
body of the work.
 REMARKS ON JEWISH COOKERY.

From being forbidden by their usages to mingle butter, or other

preparation of milk or cream with meat at any meal, the Jews have
oil much used in their cookery of fish, meat, and vegetables.
Pounded almonds and rich syrups of sugar and water agreeably
flavoured, assist in compounding their sweet dishes, many of which
are excellent, and preserve much of their oriental character; but we
are credibly informed that the restrictions of which we have spoken
are not at the present day very rigidly observed by the main body of
Jews in this country, though they are so by those who are
denominated strict.
 JEWISH SMOKED BEEF.[188]

188. We were made acquainted with it first through the courtesy of a Jewish lady,
who afterwards supplied us with the address of the butcher from whom it was
procured: Mr. Pass, 34, Duke Street, Aldgate, from whom the chorissa also
may be purchased, and probably many other varieties of smoked meat which
are used in Jewish cookery. For such of our readers as may not be
acquainted with the fact, it may be well to state here that all meat supplied by
Jew butchers is sure to be of first-rate quality, as they are forbidden by the
Mosaic Law to convert into food any animal which is not perfectly free from
all “spot or blemish.”
This is excellent, possessing the fine flavour of a really well cured
ham, and retaining it unimpaired for a very long time after it is cut or
cooked, if kept in a cool larder; it is therefore a valuable and
inexpensive store for imparting savour to soups, gravies, and other
preparations; and it affords also a dish of high relish for the table. An
inch or two of the lean part, quite cleared from the smoked edges
and divided into dice, will flavour well a tureen of gravy, or a pint of
soup: even that which has been boiled will greatly improve the
flavour of Liebig’s extract of beef, and of any simple broth or
consommé. From the depth of fat upon it, which appears particularly
rich and mellow, we think it is the thick flank of the beef of which we
have made trial in various ways, and which is now in much request
in several families of our acquaintance, who find it greatly superior to
the common hung or Dutch beef, to which they were previously
accustomed.
It must be cooked in the same manner as other smoked meats,
more time being allowed for it than for fresh. Drop it into boiling
water, and when it has boiled quickly for ten minutes, take off the
scum should any appear, add cold water sufficient to reduce it to
mere scalding heat, bring it again gently to a boil, and simmer it until
the lean appears quite tender when probed with a sharp skewer;
then lift it on to a drainer and serve it hot or cold, and garnished in
either case with vegetables or otherwise at pleasure. Beef, 6 lbs.: 3
hours or more.
 CHORISSA (OR JEWISH SAUSAGE) WITH RICE.

The chorissa is a peculiar kind of smoked sausage much served at

Jewish tables[189] as an accompaniment to boiled poultry, &c. It
seems to be in great part composed of delicate pounded meat,
intermingled with suet and with a small portion of some highly-cured
preparation, and with herbs or spices which impart to it an agreeable
aromatic flavour.
189. It may be had at the same shops as the smoked beef, and is the same price
—a shilling the pound.

Drop the chorissa into warm water, heat it gently, boil it for about
twenty minutes, and serve it surrounded with rice prepared as for
currie. It will be found very good broiled in slices after the previous
boiling: it should be cold before it is again laid to the fire. In all cases
it will, we think, be found both more easy of digestion and more
agreeable if half-boiled at least before it is broiled, toasted, or
warmed in the oven for table. It is a good addition to forcemeat, and
pounded savoury preparations, if used in moderation.
 TO FRY SALMON AND OTHER FISH IN OIL.

(To Serve Cold.)

Turn into a small deep frying-pan, which should be kept for the
purpose, a flask of fresh olive oil, place it over a clear fire, and as
soon as it ceases to bubble lay in a pound and a half of delicate
salmon properly cleansed and well dried in a cloth, and fry it gently
until it is cooked quite through. The surface should be only lightly
browned, and when the proper colour is attained the pan must be
lifted so high from the fire as to prevent it being deepened, as we
have directed in Chapter IX. in the general instructions for frying.
Drain the fish well when it is done, and when it is perfectly cold, dish,
and garnish it with light foliage. The Jews have cold fried fish much
served at their repasts. Fillets of soles, plaice, brill, small turbots, or
other flat fish, may be fried as above, and arranged in a symmetrical
form round a portion of a larger fish, or by themselves. We would
recommend as an accompaniment one of the Mauritian chutnies
which are to be found in this chapter.
Olive oil, 1 small flask; salmon, about 1-1/2 lb.: 1/2 hour or rather
more. Fillets of fish 5 to 10 minutes.
Obs.—The oil should be strained through a sieve, and set aside as
the fish is done; it will serve many times for frying if this be observed.
 JEWISH ALMOND PUDDING.

We have not thought it necessary to test this receipt ourselves, as

we have tasted the puddings made by it more than once, and have
received the exact directions for them from the Jewish lady at whose
house they were made. They are extremely delicate and excellent.
The almonds for them were procured ready ground from a Jew
confectioner, but when they cannot be thus obtained they must be
pounded in the usual manner. With half a pound of sweet, mingle six
or seven bitter almonds, half a pound of sifted sugar, a little fine
orange-flower water, with the yolks of ten and the whites of seven
well whisked eggs, and when the whole of the ingredients are
intimately blended, bake the pudding in a rather quick oven for half
an hour, or longer should it not be then sufficiently firm to turn out of
the dish. Sift sugar thickly over, or pour round it a rich syrup
flavoured with orange-flower water, noyau or maraschino.
Obs.—We think a fruit syrup—pine-apple or other—or a compôte
of fruit would be an excellent accompaniment to this pudding, which
may be served hot or cold. We conclude that the dish in which it is
baked, if not well buttered, must be rubbed with oil. The above
proportions will make two puddings of sufficient size for a small party.
 THE LADY’S OR INVALID’S NEW BAKED APPLE PUDDING.

(Author’s Original Receipt. Appropriate to the Jewish table.)

This pudding, which contains no butter, is most excellent when
made with exactness by the directions which follow, but any variation
from them will probably be attended with entire failure, especially in
the crust, which if properly made will be solid, but very light and
crisp; whereas, if the proportion of sugar for it be diminished, the
bread will not form a compact mass, but will fall into crumbs when it
is served. First weigh six ounces of the crumb of a light stale loaf,
and grate it down small; then add to, and mix thoroughly with it three
ounces and a half of pounded sugar, and a slight pinch of salt. Next,
take from a pound to a pound and a quarter of russets, or of any
other good baking apples; pare, and then take them off the cores in
quarters without cutting the fruit asunder, as they will then, from the
form given to them, lie more compactly in the dish. Arrange them in
close layers in a deep tart-dish which holds about a pint and a half,
and strew amongst them four ounces of sugar and the grated rind of
a fine fresh lemon; add the strained juice of the lemon, and pour the
bread-crumbs softly in a heap upon the apples in the centre of the
dish, and with the back of a spoon level them gently into a very
smooth layer of equal thickness, pressing them lightly down upon the
fruit, which must all be perfectly covered with them. Sift powdered
sugar over, wipe the edge of the dish, and bake the pudding in a
somewhat quick oven for rather more than three-quarters of an hour.
We have had it several times baked quite successfully in a baker’s
oven, of which the heat is in general too great for puddings of a
delicate kind. Very pale brown sugar will answer for it almost as well
as pounded. For the nursery, some crumbs of bread may be strewed
between the layers of fruit, and nutmeg or cinnamon may be used
instead of lemon.
Obs.—We insert this receipt here because the pudding has been
so much liked, and found so wholesome by many persons who have
partaken of it at different times, that we think it will be acceptable to
some of our readers, but it belongs properly to another work which
we have in progress, and from which we extract it now for the
present volume. An ounce or more of ratifias crushed to powder,
may be added to the crust, or strewed over the pudding before it is
served, when they are considered an improvement.
 A FEW GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE JEWISH TABLE.

As a substitute for milk, in the composition of soufflés, puddings,

and sweet dishes, almond-cream as it is called, will be found to
answer excellently. To prepare it, blanch and pound the almonds by
the directions of page 542, and then pour very gradually to them
boiling water in the proportion directed below; turn them into a strong
cloth or tammy, and wring it from them with powerful pressure, to
extract as much as possible of it from them again.
The fruit custards of page 482, and the méringues of fruit of page
485, are perfectly suited to the tables of Jewish families; and sweet
or savoury croustades or fried patties may be supplied to them from
the receipts in the present work, by substituting clarified marrow (see
page 388) for the butter used for them in general cookery. The
reader will easily discover in addition, numerous dishes distributed
through this volume which may be served to them without departing
from their peculiar usages.
Almond-cream: (for puddings, &c.) almonds, 4 oz.; water, 1 pint.
For blancmanges, and rich soufflés, creams and custards: almonds,
1/2 to whole pound; water, 1 to 1-1/2 pints.
Obs.—As every cook may not be quite aware of the articles of
food strictly prohibited by the Mosaic law, it may be well to specify
them here. Pork in every form; all varieties of shell-fish, without
exception; hares, rabbits, and swans.
 TOMATA AND OTHER CHUTNIES.

(Mauritian Receipts.)
The composition of these favourite oriental sauces varies but little
except in the ingredient which forms the basis of each. The same
piquant or stimulating auxiliaries are intermingled with all of them in
greater or less proportion. These are, young onions, chilies
(sometimes green ginger), oil, vinegar, and salt; and occasionally a
little garlic or full grown onion, which in England might be
superseded by a small portion of minced eschalot. Green peaches,
mangoes, and other unripe fruits, crushed to pulp on the stone roller,
shown at the head of this chapter; ripe bananas, tomatas roasted or
raw, and also reduced to a smooth pulp; potatoes cooked and
mashed; the fruit of the egg-plant boiled and reduced to a paste; fish,
fresh, salted, or smoked, and boiled or grilled, taken in small
fragments from the bones and skin, and torn into minute shreds, or
pounded, are all in their turn used in their preparation.[190] Mingle
with any one of these as much of the green onions and chilies
chopped up small, as will give it a strong flavour; add salt if needed,
and as much olive oil, of pure quality, with a third as much of vinegar,
as will bring it to the consistence of a thick sauce. Serve it with
currie, cutlets, steaks, pork, cold meat, or fish, or aught else to which
it would be an acceptable accompaniment.
190. We are indebted for these receipts to a highly intelligent medical man who
has been for twenty years a resident in the Mauritius.
 INDIAN LOBSTER-CUTLETS.

A really excellent and elegant receipt for lobster-cutlets has

already been given in previous editions of the present work, and is
now to be found at page 91 of Chapter III.; but the subjoined is one
which may be more readily and expeditiously prepared, and may
consequently, be preferred by some of our readers for that reason: it
has also the recommendation of being new. In India, these cutlets
are made from the flesh of prawns, which are there of enormous
size, but lobsters, unless quite overgrown, answer for them as well,
or better. Select fish of good size and take out the tails entire; slice
them about the third of an inch thick, dip them into beaten egg, and
then into very fine crumbs of bread seasoned rather highly with
cayenne, and moderately with salt, grated nutmeg, and pounded
mace. Egg and crumb them twice, press the bread upon them with
the blade of a knife, and when all are ready, fry them quickly in good
butter to a light brown. Serve them as dry as possible, arranged in a
chain round a hot dish, and pour into the centre, or send to table with
them in a tureen, some sauce made with the flesh of the claws
heated in some rich melted butter, flavoured with a tablespoonful of
essence of anchovies, one of strong chili vinegar, a little salt and
mace, and coloured with the coral of the fish, should they contain
any. A few shrimps may be added with good effect; or the sauce may
be made of these entirely, either whole or pounded, when they are
preferred. In either case, they should only be heated in it, and not
allowed to boil. East or West Indian mangoes, or other hot pickle,
should accompany the dish. The cutlets may likewise be dipped into
light French batter, and fried; but the egg and bread-crumbs are
somewhat preferable. It is an advantage to have lobsters little more
than parboiled for them. Herbs can be added to the crumbs at
pleasure; the writer does not, however, recommend them.
 AN INDIAN BURDWAN.

(Entrée.)
This is an Oriental dish of high savour, which may be made either
with a young fowl or chicken parboiled for the purpose, or with the
remains of such as have already been sent to table. First, put into a
stewpan about a tablespoonful of very mild onion finely minced, or a
larger proportion with a mixture of eschalots, for persons whose
taste is in favour of so strong a flavour; add rather more than a
quarter of a pint of cold water, about an ounce of butter smoothly
blended with a very small teaspoonful of flour, a moderate seasoning
of cayenne, and a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies. Shake or
stir this sauce over a clear fire until it boils, then let it stand aside and
merely simmer for ten or fifteen minutes, or until the onion is quite
tender, then pour to it a couple of wineglassesful of Madeira (Sherry
or Tenerifte will do), and a tablespoonful of chili-vinegar. Lay in the
fowl after having carved it neatly, divided all the joints, and stripped
off the skin; and let it remain close to the fire, but without boiling, until
it is perfectly heated through; bring it to the point of boiling and send
it immediately to table. A dish of rice, boiled as for currie, is often, but
not invariably, served with it. Should the fowl have been parboiled
only—that is to say, boiled for a quarter of an hour—it must be gently
stewed in the sauce for fifteen or twenty minutes; longer, even,
should it not then be quite tender. Cold lamb, or veal, or calf’s-head,
or a delicate young rabbit, may be very advantageously served as a
rechauffé, in a sauce compounded as above. The various
condiments contained in this can be differently apportioned at
pleasure; and pickled capsicum, or chilies minced, can be added to it
at choice either in lieu of, or in addition to the chili-vinegar. The juice
of a fresh lime should, if possible, be thrown into it before it is
served. Except for a quite plain family dinner, only the superior joints
of poultry should be used for this dish. Care should be taken not to
allow the essence of anchovies to predominate too powerfully in it.
 THE KING OF OUDE’S OMLET.

Whisk up very lightly, after having cleared them in the usual way,
five fine fresh eggs; add to them two dessertspoonsful of milk or
cream, a small teaspoonful of salt, one—or half that quantity for
English eaters—of cayenne pepper, three of minced mint, and two
dessertspoonsful of young leeks, or of mild onions chopped small.
Dissolve an ounce and a half of good butter in a frying-pan about the
size of a plate, or should a larger one of necessity be used, raise the
handle so as to throw the omlet entirely to the opposite side; pour in
the eggs, and when the omlet, which should be kept as thick as
possible, is well risen and quite firm, and of a fine light brown
underneath, slide it on to a very hot dish, and fold it together “like a
turnover,” the brown side uppermost: six or seven minutes will fry it.
This receipt is given to the reader in a very modified form, the fiery
original which we transcribe being likely to find but few admirers here
we apprehend: the proportion of leeks or onions might still be much
diminished with advantage:—“Five eggs, two tolahs of milk, one
masha of salt, two mashas of cayenne pepper, three of mint, and two
tolahs of leeks.”
 KEDGEREE OR KIDGEREE, AN INDIAN BREAKFAST DISH.

Boil four ounces of rice tender and dry as for currie, and when it is
cooled down put it into a saucepan with nearly an equal quantity of
cold fish taken clear of skin and bone, and divided into very small
flakes or scallops. Cut up an ounce or two of fresh butter and add it,
with a full seasoning of cayenne, and as much salt as may be
required. Stir the kedgeree constantly over a clear fire until it is very
hot; then mingle quickly with it two slightly beaten eggs. Do not let it
boil after these are stirred in; but serve the dish when they are just
set. A Mauritian chatney may be sent to table with it. The butter may
be omitted, and its place supplied by an additional egg or more. Cold
turbot, brill, salmon, soles, John Dory, and shrimps, may all be
served in this form.
 A SIMPLE SYRIAN PILAW.

Drop gradually into three pints of boiling water one pint of rice
which has been shaken in a cullender to free it from the dust and
then well wiped in a soft clean cloth. The boiling should not be
checked by the addition of the rice, which if well managed will
require no stirring, and which will entirely absorb the water. It should
be placed above the fire where the heat will reach it equally from
below; and it should boil gently that the grain may become quite
tender and dry. When it is so, and the surface is full of holes, pour in
two or three ounces of clarified butter, or merely add some, cut up
small; throw in a seasoning of salt and white pepper, or cayenne; stir
the whole up well, and serve it immediately. An onion, when the
flavour is liked, may be boiled in the water, which should afterwards
be strained, before the rice is added; there should be three pints of it
when the grain is dropped in.
Small fried sausages or sausage-cakes may be served with it at
pleasure for English eaters. The rice may be well washed and
thoroughly dried in a cloth when time will permit.
 SIMPLE TURKISH OR ARABIAN PILAW.

(From Mr. Lane, the Oriental Traveller.)

“Piláw or piláu is made by boiling rice in plenty of water for about
twenty minutes, so that the water drains off easily, leaving the grains
whole, and with some degree of hardness; then stirring it up with a
little butter, just enough to make the grains separate easily, and
seasoning it with salt and pepper. Often a fowl, boiled almost to rags,
is laid upon the top. Sometimes small morsels of fried or roasted
mutton or lamb are mixed up with it; and there are many other
additions; but generally the Turks and Arabs add nothing to the rice
but the butter, and salt, and pepper.”
Obs.—We are indebted to the courtesy of Mr. Lane for this receipt,
which was procured from him for us by one of his friends.
 A REAL INDIAN PILAW.

Boil three pounds of bacon in the usual manner; take it out and
drop into the same pan a pair of fowls compactly trussed as for
boiling. In three quarters of an hour, unless very large, they will be
sufficiently cooked; but they should be thoroughly boiled. When they
are so, lift them out, and place a hot cover and thick cloth over them.
Take three pints and a half of the liquor in which they were boiled,
and add to it when it again boils, nearly two pounds of well washed
Patna rice, three onions, a quarter of an ounce each of cloves and
peppercorns, with half as much of allspice, tied loosely in a bit of
muslin. Stew these together very gently for three quarters of an hour.
Do not stir them as it breaks the rice. Take out the spice and onions;
lay in the fowls if necessary, to heat them quite through, and dish
them neatly with the rice heaped smoothly over them. Garnish the
pilaw with hot hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters, or with fried
forcemeat-balls, or with half rings of onion fried extremely dry. The
bacon, heated apart, should be served in a separate dish.
Obs.—This is a highly approved receipt supplied to us by a friend
who had long experience of it in India; but we would suggest that to
be really cooked so as to render it wholesome in this country, a
larger quantity of liquid should be added to it, as one pint (or pound)
will absorb three pints of water or broth: and the time allowed for
stewing it appears to us insufficient for it to become really tender. A
Persian Pilaw is made much in the same manner, sometimes with
morsels of fried kid mixed with the rice.
Bacon, 3 lbs., 1-1/2 to 2 hours; fowls, 2.; Rice, nearly 2 lbs. Broth
from bacon and fowls, 3-1/2 pints; onions, 3; cloves and
peppercorns, 1/4 oz. each; allspice, 1 drachm: 3/4 hour.
 INDIAN RECEIPT FOR CURRIED FISH.

Take the fish from the bones, and cut it into inch and half squares;
lay it into a stewpan with sufficient hot water to barely cover it;
sprinkle some salt over, and boil it gently until it is about half cooked.
Lift it out with a fish-slice, pour the liquor into a basin, and clear off
any scum which may be on it. Should there be three or four pounds
of the fish, dissolve a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, and
when it has become a little brown, add two cloves of garlic and a
large onion finely minced or sliced very thin; fry them until they are
well coloured, then add the fish; strew equally over it, and stir it well
up with from two to three tablespoonsful of Bengal currie powder;
cover the pan, and shake it often until the fish is nicely browned; next
add by degrees the liquor in which it was stewed, and simmer it until
it is perfectly done, but not so as to fall into fragments. Add a
moderate quantity of lemon-juice or chili vinegar, and serve it very
hot.