JUNE 14, 2021

Bach Musical Composer Amigurumi Doll – Free Crochet Pattern

Hi everyone, I’m very excited to release this new free amigurumi pattern today! I worked
super hard on it, and pulled an all nighter just to post this pattern in time. It’s supposed to
be the classical composer, Bach! Honestly, you could probably rename this doll to other
things and it would fit. (Like a pirate boy, or a colonial time boy from Hamilton?)
This pattern is suuuuper detailed, I try to go in depth with explaining things so that there’s
as little confusing as possible. Don’t be discouraged if the pattern looks really long, it’s just
me explaining things in more detail than usual!

If you like this doll pattern, please let me know if I should make more. I have some really
fun ideas but I’ll only make more dolls if you let me know that’s what you want to see! (I
thought a hula girl would be cute, or a mad scientist). Anyways, I hope you have fun with
this pattern, I worked hard on it! Let me know if you have any questions by leaving a
comment or contacting me through my contact form. Have fun!

Supplies:
• Yarn 2/Fine Weight Yarn in…
Skin color, light yellow for shirt, white, blue for jacket, light brown for pants and hair, dark
brown for pants and scarf
• 2mm Crochet Hook
• 8mm safety eyes
•Tapestry needle
•Scissors
•Stuffing
•Black Embroidery Thread
•Pipecleaner
•Wire for moving arms & stable head
•Fabric glue for toy’s hair
•Red or pink acrylic paint for blush
•Makeup brush for blush

Additional Information:

Difficulty: Advanced

• Supplies information
You must use a small size yarn for this doll. If you use a medium/4 weight yarn, your doll
will come our very big. I used Yarn Art jeans for the entire doll. You can find similar yarn. I
recommend a cotton or cotton blend yarn. Hobbii’s 8/4 cotton yarn is similar and
affordable. You will need wire for the body, I found my inexpensive wire in the floral
section at JoAnn Fabrics in a pack. You can use a dowel or chop stick for the head
stabilixation instead, but you can’t put the doll in the dryer if you did that.

• About the pattern

This pattern is very detailed and takes a lot of time, but it’s very well worth it! There is very
little sewing involved in the doll itself. This is my first “realistic” doll pattern, if you like it

please let me know and I can make more

• How to get the clean “x” single crochet

There’s a technique when it comes to making the perfect “x” looking single crochet. View
below to see the “x” single crochet tutorial.

How to do the “x” single crochet stitch:

Insert hook into the next stitch (Pic 1). Yarn under by having your hook above the
yarn (Pic 2). Pull the yarn through (Pic 3-4). You will have 2 loops on your hook, make
sure these loops are the same height as shown (Pic 4)

1. 2.
3. 4.

Now yarn over as you usually do (Pic 5). Pull the yarn through both loops (Pic 6).
Done! (Pic 7).

5. 6.
7.

Important note: You must have tight tension when yarning under and bringing that yarn
under through the stitch. Your yarn over should also have tight tension, but not AS tight as
your yarn under tension. This is what I’ve found works for me to get the perfect “x” shape.

A quick overview…

We start by making the two legs of the doll. After we make each leg, we’ll crochet them
together. This will start to lead into the body as one piece. From the body, we’ll also
crochet the arms on, and then form the head. The legs, body, arms, and head are all
crocheted together in one piece!
Legs: (Make 2)

START IN BLACK

Round 1: 6 Sc into a magic ring (6)

Round 2: *Inc* all around (12)
Round 3: Sc in the next 5 st, *Inc* in the next 2 st, Sc in the next 5 st (14)
Round 4-6: *Sc* all around (14)
Round 7: Sc in the next 5 st, *Dec* 2 times, Sc in the next 5 st (12)
Round 8: Sc in the next 4 st, *Dec* 2 times, Sc in the next 4 st (10)
Stuff the shoe firmly now. Stuff the leg gradually after every few rounds.
Round 9-11: Change to white. *Sc* all around (10)
Round 12: Repeat *Inc, Sc in the next 4 st* 2 times (12)
Round 13-19: *Sc* all around (12)
Round 20: Repeat *Inc, Sc in the next 5 st* 2 times (14)

Round 21: *Sc* all around (14)

Finish off ONLY the first leg and stuff. Don’t finish off the second leg, instead continue
onto the next round:

Round 22: Sc in the next st. Ch 3 (Pic 1). Take the first leg we made and count 5 stitches
to the right of the stitch marker (Pic 2). Sc in that 5th st (Pic 3-4). Continuing on that first
leg, Sc in the remaining 13 st (Pic 5). Now we meet the chain (Pic 5).
1. 5.

3. 4.
5.

Sc along the next 3 st of the chain (Pic 6-7). Now we meet the second leg, Sc in the next
13 st of that leg (Pic 8-9).

6. 7.
8. 9.

10.

(Stitch Count: 28 stitches from both legs, 6 chain stitches from both sides of the chain. In
total: 34 stitches all around)

Round 23: Sc in the next st. Now we meet the chains, Sc in the next 3 ch (Pic 1-2). Now
we meet the left leg, Sc in the next 14 of the leg (Pic 3). Now we meet between the legs,
Sc in the next 3 between legs (Pic 4-5).(34)
1. 2.

3. 4.
5.

Now we meet the other leg, Sc in the next 13 st of leg (Pic 6-7).

6. 7.
8.

Round 24-26: *Sc* all around (34)

In the next round we will be working on the body/shirt part.
Round 27: Change to yellow. In the BLO *Sc* all around (34)
Round 28: Repeat *Inc, Sc in the next st* 6 times. Sc in the next 18 st. *Inc, Sc in the
next st* 2 times. (42)
Round 29-34: *Sc* all around (42)
Round 35: *Dec, Sc in the next 2 st* 4 times. Sc in the next 22 st. *Dec, Sc in the next 2
st* 1 time (37)
Round 36: *Sc* all around (37)
Round 37: Repeat *Sc in the next 2 st, Dec* 2 times. Sc in the next 29 st (35)
Round 38: *Sc* all around (35)
Round 39: Sc in the next 4 st. *Dec* 1 time. Sc in the next 29 st (34)
Round 40-42: *Sc* all around (34)
Stuff the body firmly now. Stop here. Make the arms as mentioned below. After making
the arms, continue onto Round 43. On this next round, we will crochet the arms to the
body.
Arms: (Make 2)

IN SKIN COLOR

Round 1: 8 Sc into a Magic Ring (8)

Round 2-4: *Sc* all around (8)
Stuff the arm here. Continue stuffing after every 2 rounds. You can use the end of a
crochet hook to help get the stuffing in.
Round 5-20: Change to yellow. *Sc* all around (8)
Finish off. Weave in ends. We will now crochet these arms to the body.

Round 43: Sc in the next 11 st (Pic 1). Take 1 arm and line the stitches up to the
body (Pic 2-3).
1. 2.

3.

Going through BOTH the arm and body, Sc in the next 4 st (Pic 4-6). Continuing on the
body, Sc in the next 15 st (Pic 7). Line up the second arm to the body. Going through
BOTH the arm and body, Sc in the next 4 st
4. 5.

6. 7.
8.

(Stitch count: 34, don’t count the 4 stitches that connected the arm to the body. Count the
4 stitches on the outside of the arm)

Round 44: Sc in the next 11 st. Now we meet the arm (Pic 1). Sc in the next 4 st on the
OUTSIDE of the arm, not the part where we crocheted the arm to the body (Pic 2-3).
Continuing on the body, Sc in the next 15 st (Pic 4). Now we meet the second arm. Sc in
the next 4 st on the OUTSIDE of the arm. all around (34)

1. 2.
3. 4.

5.

Round 45: *Dec* 1 time, Sc in the next 7 st. Repeat *Dec, Sc in the next st* 3 times. Sc in
the next 10 st. Repeat *Dec, Sc in the next st* 2 times. (28)

Now we will insert wire into the arms and neck of the doll to stabilize the head and have
the arms moveable. Take a long piece of wire (I found mine in a pack in the floral
department for $3, Pic 1). Bend the two ends to form the middle as shown (Pic 2). Twist
one end of the wire around the middle 2-3 times to secure (Pic 3). This middle piece will
be for the head (Pic 3).

1. 2.

3.

Now you will have the middle and two ends pieces. Bring the end pieces up, these will be
for the arms. Bend the very tips in so the wire won’t poke out of the arms (Pic 4). Place
the left end of the wire into the left arm (Pic 5), the right end of the wire into the right arm,
and the middle wire will be where the head will form (Pic 6).

4. 5.

6.

Round 46: *Dec* 1 time, Sc in the next 6 st. *Dec* 3 times, Sc in the next 10 st. *Dec* 2
times (22)
Round 47: Repeat *Dec, Sc in the next st* 7 times. Sc in the last st (15)
Stuff the body again now.
Round 48: Repeat *Dec 2 times, Sc in the next st* 3 times (9)
In the next rounds we will start forming the head.
Round 49-51: Change to skin color. *Sc* all around (9)
Round 52: *Inc* all around (18)
Round 53: *Inc, Sc 2* all around (24)
Round 54: *Inc, Sc 3* all around (30)
Round 55: *Inc, Sc 4* all around (36)
Round 56: *Inc, Sc 5* all around (42)
Round 57: *Inc, Sc 6* all around (48)
Round 58: *Inc, Sc 7* all around (54)
Round 59: *Inc, Sc 8* all around (60)
Round 60-73: *Sc* all around (66)
Add safety eyes in between Round 64 and 65, 8 stitches apart.

Round 74: *Dec, Sc 9* all around (60)

Round 75: *Dec, Sc 8* all around (54)
Round 76: *Dec, Sc 7* all around (48)
Round 77: *Dec, Sc 6* all around (42)
Round 78: *Dec, Sc 5* all around (36)
Round 79: *Dec, Sc 4* all around (30)
Stuff the head firmly here. Continue stuffing after each round.
Round 80: *Dec, Sc 3* all around (24)
Round 81: *Dec, Sc 2* all around (18)
Round 82: *Dec, Sc* all around (12)
Round 83: *Dec* all around (6)
Finish off and sew closed. Weave in ends.
Facial Features…

Now let’s make his face! There are 3 different things we need to do for his face. First, we
have to add the whites of his eyes, then we have to do this eyebrows, blush, eyelashes,
and nose!

Eye Whites:

IN WHITE

Insert needle with yarn close to the eye and pull needle into the top right corner of the
right eye (Pic 1). Reinsert needle into the inner left corner of the right eye (Pic 2). Pull
needle out at the top left corner of the left eye (Pic 3). Reinsert needle into the inner right
corner of the left eye (Pic 4). Pull needle out at the original insertion spot (Pic 5). Tie ends
firmly and weave into the toys’ head.

1. 2.
3. 4.

5.
Blush:

USE SMALL MAKEUP BRUSH AND ACRYLIC PAIN T

Dab a small amount of pink or red acrylic yarn onto a plate. Dab your brush into the
paint (Pic 2). Rub off most of the paint onto a paper towel, leaving almost none left on the
brush (Pic 3). You can see how much comes off the brush and onto a paper towel (Pic 4)

1. 2.

3. 4.
Now, lightly go over a cheek area with the brush. Swipe over an area only a few
times (Pic 5). You can always add more but you can’t take blush away! Repeat this for the
other cheek (Pic 6).

5. 6.

Eyelashes and eyebrows:

IN BLACK EMBROIDERY THREAD

Insert needle with black embroidery thread into a stitch near the toy’s right eye, and pull
needle out at the top left corner of the left eye as shown (Pic 1). Reinsert needle into the
middle right area of the right eye as shown (Pic 2). Pull needle out 3 stitches directly
up as shown (Pic 3). Reinsert needle 3 stitches to the left, and 1/2 stitch up as shown (Pic
4).
1. 2.

3. 4.
5.

Pull needle out 6 stitches to the left (Pic 5-7). Reinsert needle 3 stitches to the left and 1/2
a stitch down as shown (Pic 8). Pull needle out at the top right corner of the left eye as
shown (Pic 8). Reinsert needle into the middle left area of the left eye as shown (Pic 9).
Pull needle out at any nearby stitch. Tie the ends of thread into firm knots and bring into
the toy’s head to hide. Cut any excess yarn.

6. 7.
8. 9.

10.

Nose:

IN SKIN COLOR YARN

Place skin color yarn on a sewing needle. Insert needle into the toy’s head, 2 stitches left
of the right eye. Pull needle a total of 3 stitches over (Pic 1). Reinsert the needle into the
same right side of the nose (Pic 2). Pull needle out 3 stitches to the left, at the same left
side of the nose (Pic 2). This makes 1 strand of yarn as the nose. Repeat this two more
times. Tie the ends of yarn into firm knots and bring into the toy’s head to hide. Cut any
excess yarn.

1. 2.

3. 4.
5.

Jacket:

IN LIGHT BLUE

Row 1: Ch 19. Skip the first 2 chains from the hook (This will count as your first Dc). Dc in
the 3rd ch from the hook. Dc in the next next 16 st (18)
Row 2: Turn. Repeat *1 Dc in the next 2 st, Dc 2 times in the next st* 6 times (24)
Row 3: Turn. Repeat *1 Dc in the next 3 st, Dc 2 times in the next st* 6 times (30)
Row 4: Turn. Repeat *1 Dc in the next 4 st, Dc 2 times in the next st* 6 times (36)
Row 5: Turn. Repeat *1 Dc in the next 5 st, Dc 2 times in the next st* 6 times (42)
Row 6: Turn. Repeat *1 Dc in the next 6 st, Dc 2 times in the next st* 6 times (48)
Row 7-9: Turn. Dc in the next 48 st (48)
Row 10: Turn. Repeat *Dc decrease, Dc in the next 6 st* 6 times (42)
Row 11-12: Turn. Dc in the next 42 st (42)
Row 13: Turn. Repeat *Dc decrease, Dc in the next 5 st* 5 times (36)
Row 14: Turn. Repeat *Dc decrease, Dc in the next 4 st* 5 times (30)

In the next round we will make 2 spaces for the arm holes. Later we will crochet into those
arm holes to form the sleeves.

Row 15: Turn. Dc dec 1 time. Dc next st. Ch 7 (Pic 2), skip the next 5 st. Dc into the next
st (Pic 3). This forms an arm hole (Pic 4). Dc into the next 13 st. Ch 7, skip the next 5 st.
dc next st. dc dec 1 time (32)

1. 2.
3. 4.

Row 16: Turn. Dc in the first st. *Dc Dec 1 time, Dc in the 4* 5 times. Dc in the last st (27)

Now we’re going to spice up the jacket by adding some extra trim! There is no exact
pattern for this, as it’s more of a technique. Follow along to see how to do this for your
doll.

Jacket Trim:

IN JACKET COLOR

Continuing with the same yarn, *Sc* all around the outside edge of the jacket. This will
make the outside edges look cleaner and help us add additional trim to the jacket. This
part doesn’t need to be perfect, just single crochet along the entire outside edge of the
jacket. Now you will see that we have a single crochet border around the jacket.
Brown Jacket Trim:

IN LIGHT BROWN

We will now work this trim in the FLO (Front Loop Only).
Attach brown yarn in the FLO to the bottom right corner on the front of the jacket. Single
crochet up towards the arm hole. Once we meet the edge of the collar, make 3 Sc into 1
stitch. Continue along the collar making only 1 Sc into each stitch. Now we will meet the
collar on the left side. Make 3 Sc into the edge of the collar. Continue down the jacket,
making only 1 Sc down. Stop crocheting once you meet the bottom corner, don’t crochet
at the back edge of the jacket.
White Jacket Trim:

IN WHITE

Remember how we just worked in the front loops? Now

we still have back loops left – we’re going to work in those back loops this round! Attach
white yarn in the BLO to the bottom right corner on the front of the jacket, like we did
previously. Ch 2. Dc up the jacket, towards the arms, for about 26 stitches. Hdc in the
next st, SlSt in the next st. Finish off now. Repeat this exact pattern for the left side of the
jacket. Finish off and weave in ends.
Jacket Sleeves:

IN JACKET COLOR

Attach jacket color yarn into the arm hole space we left in the jacket. The jacket’s arm
holes has 12 stitches in it. We will crochet entirely around the arm hole using those 12
stitches (7 of them are at the top of the arm hole and 4 of them are at the armpit, bottom
arm hole area).

Round 1-13: *Sc* all around (12)

Round 14: In the FLO (Front Loop Only), *Sc* all around (12)
In the next round we will create a cuff.
Round 15: Change to white here. Now we will work in the back loops that are left from
Round 14. In the BLO, *Dc* all around (12)
Finish off and weave in ends.
NOTE: If Round 15 is hard to do, flip Round 14’s stitches outwards towards you. This will
better expose the back loops, making them easier to crochet into. Once done with Round
15, flip Round 14’s stitches back to normal.

Pants:

IN LIGHT BROWN

Round 1: Ch 20. Sc to very first Ch made. This will form a circle. Be extra sure to make
sure you don’t twist this chain! (20)
Round 2: *Sc* all around (20)
Round 3: *Inc, Sc in the next st* all around (30)
Only do the next 2 rounds for the first leg ONLY.
Round 4-5: *Sc* all around (30)
Finish off the first pant leg now. DON’T finish off the second pant leg, instead continue on
with the following rounds:

Pant Leg #2, Round 4: *Sc* all around (30)

In the next round we will crochet the pant legs together to form the pants. If you need a
visual on crocheting things together, please refer back to when we crocheted the arms to
the body!
Round 5: Sc in the next 12 st. Line up the 1st pant leg to second pant leg, making sure
the stitches align. Going through BOTH the first and second pant leg’s stitches, Sc in the
next 8 st. Continuing on the second leg, Sc in the next 10 st (44 stitches around, 8
stitches in the middle)
Round 6-7: *Sc* all around (44)
Round 8-9: *FpDc in the next st, BpDc in the next st* all around (44)
NOTE: View below to see how to do a FpDc and a BpDc.
Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Place the pants onto the toy’s legs and sew on.

How to do a front post double crochet :

Yarn over (Pic 1). Insert hook through the next double crochet by inserting your hook from
the right side of the double crochet, over to the left (Pic 1-2). Yarn over (Pic 4).

1. 2.
3. 4.

Pull yarn through (Pic 5-6). You will have 3 loops on your hook (Pic 6). Yarn over and pull
through two loops. You will now have 2 loops left on your hook (Pic 7). Yarn over and pull
through those remaining two loops (Pic 8).

5. 6.
7. 8.

How to do a back post double crochet:

Yarn over (Pic 1). Insert hook through the back of the next double crochet by inserting
your hook to the right side of the double crochet (Pic 2), over to the left and above the
double crochet (Pic 3-4). Yarn over (Pic 5).

1. 2.
3. 4.

5.

Pull yarn through (Pic 6-7). You will have 3 loops on your hook (Pic 7). Yarn over and pull
through two loops. You will now have 2 loops left on your hook (Pic 8). Yarn over and pull
through those remaining two loops (Pic 9). This makes a Back post double crochet!
6. 7.

8. 9.
10.

Scarf:

IN DARK BROWN

Row 1: Ch 42. Sc in the 2nd Ch from the hook. Sc in the next 40 st (41)
Row 2: Ch 1 & turn. Sc in the next 41 st (41)
Finish off now, leaving a tail of yarn for sewing. Place the scarf on the doll as shown (Pic
1). Bring both ends to his back (Pic 2). Bring the right piece over his shoulder as
shown (Pic 3). Continue bringing this strand to the front (Pic 4). Sew on.
1. 2.

3. 4.
Hair:

IN LIGHT BROWN

Round 1: 6 Sc into a Magic Ring (6)

Round 2: *Inc* all around (12)
Round 3: *Inc, Sc* all around (18)
Round 4: *Inc, Sc 2* all around (24)

In the next round we will create hair strands by making a chain, working down that chain,
and crocheting back onto the circle of Round 2. We will repeat this all around for a total of
24 different hair strands. There are 4 different types of strands depending on their length.
There is A, B, C, and D. This is to help make the pattern easier to understand and keep
track of the strands better.

Hair Strands A
Repeat hair strands A for a total of 2 times to make a total of 2 hair strands:
Ch 23 (Pic 1). SlSt in the 2nd Ch from the hook. SlSt in the next st, Sc in the next 20
st (Pic 2-3). Now make 1 Sc into the next stitch on the circle (Pic 4-5). (Stitch count: 2 A
strands, 22 st on each 1 strand, 1 sc between each strand)
1. 2.

3. 4.
5.

Hair Strands B
Repeat hair strands B for a total of 18 times: Ch 26. Sc in the 2nd Ch from the hook. Sc in
the next 24 st. Now make 1 Sc into the next stitch on the circle. (Stitch count: 18 B strands
made, 25 st on each 1 strand, 1 Sc between each strand)

Hair Strands C
Repeat hair strands C for a total of 2 times to make a total of 2 hair strands:
Ch 23. SlSt in the 2nd Ch from the hook. SlSt in the next st, Sc in the next 20 st. Now
make 1 Sc into the next stitch on the circle. (Stitch count: 2 C strands made, 22 st on each
1 strand, 1 sc between each strand)

Hair strand D
Ch 8. Sc in the 2nd Ch from the hook. Sc in the next 6 st. Now make 1 Sc into the next
stitch on the circle.(Stitch Count: 1 D strand made, 7 st on this 1 strand, 1 sc is after the
strand)

Hair strand E
Ch 6. Sc in the 2nd Ch from the hook. Sc in the next 4 st. Now make 1 Sc into the next
stitch on the circle.(Stitch Count: 1 E strand made, 5 st on this 1 strand, 1 sc is after the
strand)
Total hair stitch count: 24 Strands made. 2 short strands, 4 medium strands, 18 long
strands. Now we finished making the hair! Let’s pin each strand on and learn how to
attach it to the head.

Hair Assembly:

Pin the hair to the doll, the center of the hair should match to the center of the head. The 2
shortest strands (the last 2 strands we made) will be at the middle, front of the face. We
will start by pinning down the hair strands at the right of the face. First, skip the first 2 long
hair strands we made. Take the 3rd long hand strand and pin it down at the side of the
head (Pic 2). Pin down the next hair strand (Pic 3). Pin down the following hair
strands (Pic 4-5). Repeat this until you meet the last 2 long hair strand – don’t pin down
those strands yet! You’ll have a 4 long hair strands left, and 2 short strands left (Pic 6).

1. 2.
3. 4.

5. 6.

Pin the 2 shortest strands back as shown (Pic 1). We’re now going to work with the 2
strands on the right (Pic 2). Place the left strand over the right (Pic 3). Place the left
strand over the right (Pic 4). Take the left piece and pin it over to the right as shown (Pic
5). The left piece will go straight down as a sideburn (Pic 5-6).
1. 2.

3. 4.
5. 6.

Now we’re working on the left 2 strands (Pic 1). Place the right piece over the left (Pic 2).
Place the right piece over the left again (Pic 3). Place the right strand straight down as a
side burn (Pic 4). Place the left strand over as shown (Pic 4).

1. 2.
3. 4.

Ears: (Make 2)

IN SKIN COLOR

Round 1: 6 Sc into a Magic Ring (6)

Round 2: *Inc, Sc* all around (9)
Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin the ear between the 2 strands of the hair as
shown. Make sure the ear is slightly lower than the eyes, and match the other ear
placement. Sew on and weave in ends.
Attaching Hair:

You can sew the hair on, however I find that gluing the hair on is much easier and cleaner
than sewing it on. You can use E600 glue, but fabric glue will stick best. Unpin the third
long strand of hair (Pic 1-3). Apply glue to the bottom of the strand (Pic 4-5). You don’t
need to apply too much, you don’t want glue to come out the sides. Place the strand back
onto the same area, pressing your finger over the strand to secure (Pic 6). Place a pin at
the bottom of the strand to hold as it dries (Pic 7). Repeat this with all of the strands.
1. 2.

3. 4.
5. 6.

7.
Cello:

IN DARK BROWN OR BOWNY/RED YARN

The cello will be made by making a chain. We will work down the chain entirely, turn to
the other side of the chain where UNWORKED stitches are, and continue crocheting
down that other side. This will form a round. Pictures below show how to do this – even
though it’s in a different color it shows the technique!

Round 1: Ch 9 (Pic 1). Sc 3 tines in the 2nd Ch from hook (Pic 2). Sc in the next 6 st. Sc
3 times in the next st. Now we meet the end of the chains (Pic 3). Turn to the other side of
the chain where we haven’t made any stitches yet (Pic 4). Sc in the next 6 st (18, Pic 5)
1. 2.

3. 4.

5.

Round 2: *Sc* all around (18)

Round 3: Repeat *Inc in the next 3 st, Sc in the next 6 st* 2 times (24)
Round 4: Repeat *Inc, Sc in the next st* 3 times. Sc in the next 6 st. Repeat *Inc, Sc in the
next st* 3 times. Sc in the next 6 st (30)
Round 5: *Sc* all around (30)
Round 6: Sc in the next 2 st. Repeat *Inc, Sc in the next 2 st* 3 times. Sc in the next 6 st.
Repeat *Inc, Sc in the next 2 st* 6 times. Sc in the next 4 st (36)Round 7-11: *Sc* all
around (36)
Round 12: Sc in the next 4 st. Repeat *Dec, Sc in the next 2 st* 3 times. Sc in the next 6
st. Repeat *Dec, Sc 2* 3 times. Sc in the last 2 st (30)
Round 13: *Sc* all around (30)
Round 14: Sc in the next 3 st. Repeat *Dec, Sc in the next st* 3 times. Sc in the next 6 st.
*Dec, Sc in the next st* 3 times. Sc in the next 3 st (24)
Round 15: *Sc* all around (24)
Round 16: Sc in the next 3 st. *Dec* 3 times. Sc in the next 6 st. *Dec* 3 times. Sc in the
next 3 st (18)
Round 17: *Sc* all around (18)
Round 18: Sc in the next 4 st. *Inc* 3 times, Sc in the next 6 st, *Inc* 3 times, Sc in the
next 2 st (24)
Round 19: *Sc* all around (24)
Round 20: Sc in the next 4 st. *Inc, Sc in the next st* 3 times. Sc in the next 6 st. *Inc, Sc
in the next st* 3 times. Sc in the next 2 st (30)

Now we will add cardboard into the cello. This will make it stable and not floppy. Stuffing
will make the cello look odd, so for the best look follow the next steps.

Place the cello onto cardboard and trace around it. Cut out around the outline. Now, trace
2 lines where shown and cut along those 2 lines. Place the cardboard into the cello.
Continue crocheting the cello.
1. 2.

3. 4.
5. 6.

7. 8.

Cello: (Continued)

Round 21-23: *Sc* all around (30)

Round 24: Sc in the next 4 st. *Dec, Sc in the next st* 3 times. Sc in the next 6 st. *Dec,
Sc in the next st* 3 times. Sc in the next 2 st (24)
Round 25: Sc in the next 4 st, *Dec* 3 times, Sc in the next 6 st, *Dec* 3 times, Sc in the
next 2 st (18)
Round 26: *Dec, Sc in the next st* all around (12)
Round 27: *Dec* all around (6)
Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the remaining stitches closed and weave in
ends.

Cello Bottom Strip:

IN BLACK
Row 1: Ch 11. Skip the next 4 ch. Trc in the 5th ch from the hook. Trc in the next st, Dc in
the next 2 st, Hdc in the next st, Sc in the next st, SlSt in the next st (Stitch Count: 8, Ch 4
counts as 1 Trc st) Place onto the cello as shown, and sew on. Make sure to only insert
your sewing needle through the stem and only the top layer of the cello. Don’t insert your
needle through the cardboard. Once fully sewn on, weave in ends.

Cello Stem: (Make 2)

IN BLACK

Row 1: Ch 24, Sc in the 2nd Ch from the hook. Sc in the next 22 st (23)
Row 2: Ch 1 & Turn. Sc in the next 23 st (23)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing on only 1 of the cello stem pieces. Line up the
stems together and sew them together to form 1 sturdy stem piece (Pic 1-2). Place onto
the cello as shown, and sew on. Make sure to only insert your sewing needle through the
stem and only the top layer of the cello, don’t insert your needle through the
cardboard (Pic 3-4). Once fully sewn on, weave in ends.
1. 2.

3. 4.
5.

Strings:

IN WHITE

Insert needle with long piece of white yarn into the top left of the stem (Pic 1). Insert
needle into the bottom piece and pull out 1 stitch over (Pic 2-3). Reinsert needle into the
next stitch on the top stem (Pic 4-5).
1. 2.

3. 4.
5.

Insert needle into the next stitch of the bottom piece (Pic 6-7). Tie a knot at the top of the
stem with the tail end of yarn, then pull the thread to the other side (Pic 8). Tie another
knot (Pic 9). Weave in ends.

6. 7.
8. 9.

10.
Bridge:

IN CREAM COLORED YARN

Insert needle into the middle of the cello and pull needle out 3 stitches to the left (Pic 1).
Reinsert into the first area and pull out at the left (Pic 2). Repeat this one more time (Pic
3). Weave in ends.
Detail:

IN BLACK

Insert needle only through the top layer, NOT through the cardboard.Insert needle where
shown (Pic 1). Reinsert needle and pull out where shown, making sure the needle lands
ABOVE the yarn (Pic 2). Insert needle into the same area, making sure the yarn lands
ABOVE the needle (Pic 3). Weave in ends.

1. 2.
3. 4.

Cello Bow:

In Light Brown

Row 1: Ch 17. Dc in the 2nd Ch from the hook. Dc in the next 15 st (16)
Finish off and leave a tail for sewing. Place a small pipecleaner and fold the piece over
the pipecleaner. Sew closed. Thread white yarn from the tip to the other end and weave in
the white yarn ends. Place into his hand and sew on.