aLLUMAGE LAND ROVER

BRIGHT SPARKS FOR LAND ROVERS!
Clive Elliott unravels the mysteries of the screened ignition systems fitted to many military Land Rovers
This article is an attempt to explain the basis of the screened ignition system installed in Fitted For Radio (FFR)
Rovers and to offer fault-finding guidance that may also be of benefit to owners of other types of vehicles,
whether they have a screened ignition system or not.
I am aware that many enthusiasts with good automotive confidence fight shy of electrical problems especially
where screened cables and filter boxes are involved. So I hope this article will explain how the system works
and give owners the confidence to investigate problems. Don’t feel too intimidated by some terminologies,
there is a glossary at the end. I have provided some detail for those who might want it, but for those who don’t I
have divided the article into small paragraphs that can be explored individually.
Basics
The FFR Rover ignition consists of a 24-volt source supplying a filter box that incorporates a ballast resistor
that then provides a 10-volt supply to a screened ignition coil. The coil is switched on and off by a contact
breaker opening and closing in a screened distributor that then delivers the high voltage produced to the
sparking plugs in their prescribed order. The arrangement differs from a standard ignition system in that there
are a number of interference suppression components and the system operates at about half the supply voltage.
Why 24-volts Rovers?

From the outset Rovers were built with a 12-volt positive earth system but they were not compatible with the
new range of 24-volt Larkspur radios being introduced in the early 1960s. This was not just a problem of
voltage and polarity but they lacked an effective protection from radio frequency interference (RFI) caused by
the sparking inherent in the ignition system.
Although we commonly speak of 24-volt systems, for that is how it was introduced, later design specifications
refer to a 26-volt system. One could be pedantic and say the system is still misnamed as a properly running
system should be charging to provide an output of 28.5 volts.
This inadequacy contrasted sharply with the sophistication of vehicles employing the Rolls Royce ‘B Series’
engines such as Champ, Humber 1-Ton, Ferret, Saracen etc. that were introduced in the 1950s. Experience with
these vehicles influenced the basis of the new ignition systems for Rovers.
In 1961 there was a programme to convert certain Rovers Mk 3 and Mk 5 to a 24-volt FFR system. Although
the design specification for the Rover 7 a year earlier had included a 24-volt system, this then developed into
the Rover 9 requirement.
Interference
The earliest wireless transmitters relied on a spark jumping across a gap to radiate a signal over a wide part of
the radio frequency spectrum. A four-cylinder Rover engine has four sparking plugs, which do just what they
say. They are wide band spark-gap transmitters, not a welcome attribute for a vehicle fitted with sensitive radio
equipment!
Furthermore, there is also a spark generated as the rotor arm distributes the high voltage to each lead in turn and
if that was not enough there is a lesser spark at the contact breaker in the distributor each time the contact
breaker opens.
To try to reduce the amount of RFI radiated from these components and the wiring that connects them, the
whole system is shielded by metal, either solid or in a wire-mesh sheath covering the flexible leads.
However, that is not the only problem because RFI is also conducted back into the vehicle wiring, which is
unscreened, where it can also radiate further interference. This is reduced by coils called chokes that hamper
the flow of the RFI pulses by the property of inductance. At the same time capacitors (condensers) connected
between the supply and the chassis allow these pulses to by-passed to earth by capacitance.
The coil
Many people think of an ignition coil as a transformer and indeed it is an autotransformer, but the concept can
lead to confusion. Transformers increase or decrease the voltage of an alternating current (AC) in one winding
to that of a second winding. The output voltage depends on the ratio of the turns of wire in the energising
(primary) winding to the output (secondary) winding.
An ignition circuit deals with direct current (DC) not only is the input DC but so is the output voltage. So the
analogy with a normal transformer can seem confusing. Although the physics of a transformer is related, it is
easier to think of the ignition coil simply as an electromagnet that is switched on and off.
Consider an iron bar with some turns of wire wound around it, when an electric current is passed through the
coil the bar becomes magnetised i.e. it is an electromagnet. When the current is switched off the magnetic field
collapses, as it does so it transfers that magnetic energy back into electrical energy, which is called the Back
EMF. It momentarily gives rise to a higher voltage than was originally applied and is of the opposite polarity.
If a second coil of wire is wrapped around the first coil, when the energising current is removed the collapse of
the magnetic field causes (induces) a voltage to appear across both windings with a much higher voltage in the
winding with more turns. This was the basis of the first ignition coil patented by Charles Kettering on 23rd
July1908; the basic principle of the ignition system has changed little even over a century later.
Kettering’s 1908 patent drawing courtesy of AC-Delco.
It might seem that the back EMF in the primary is of no practical value and wired as Kettering intended this
would be the case. But by joining just one end of each winding together, these voltages can be added together
provided the windings are connected in phase. The back EMF is in the order of 300 volts, which might seem
unwelcome at the contact breaker points, but is of benefit as it is added to the HT output. If they are out of
phase the voltage of one will decrease the other. This can be better appreciated by seeing the coil represented as
an auto-transformer in this negative earth system.
The ratio of inductance of the primary winding to the secondary winding is the factor multiplying the voltage.
The voltage being multiplied is the Back EMF in the primary winding and not the initial energising voltage fed
from the battery.
It has to be remembered that well into the 1950s positive earth systems were still common. So it may be
confusing to read old automotive text books or even military training manuals as late as 1989 that still
perpetuate diagrams that are incorrect for negative earth vehicles.
Although wired up either way the coil will produce high voltage but it is important for an efficient spark that it
is of the correct polarity, this will be described in detail further on. Hereafter all descriptions will relate the
negative earth system.
The problem of using an iron bar is that it becomes progressively magnetised, to avoid this the iron is made up
of a series of iron strips (laminated). Typically, in a 12-volt coil the primary winding consists of 350 windings
of thick enamelled copper wire (24 SWG) and the secondary winding has up to 20,000 turns of fine copper wire
(44 SWG) around the central iron core. The coils are supported by a ceramic or plastic base and the whole
assembly is wrapped with several layers of laminated steel sheet that are magnetised in conjunction with central
core. The assembly is sealed in an aluminium can and filled with oil through the central terminal.
Unlike the coil on the ‘B Series’ engine that has a screening cover that can be unbolted, the cover on the Rover
coil is crimped in place. This obviates against fitting a replacement coil from some other application. This is not
such a drawback as it might seem as no such direct substitutes are available as the Rover coil operates at 10
volts unlike 12 volts in the ‘B Series’ engines.
Downside of a 24-volt system

It is logical that a 6-volt vehicle should have 6-volt ignition system, a 12-volt vehicle should have 12-volt
ignition system and one might suppose a 24-volt vehicle should have a 24-volt ignition system. The problem
that comes with the design of coils for these higher voltages is that the increase in turns of wire increases the
inductance of the coil. Particularly at high engine speeds this becomes significant as it reduces the time to
create sufficient magnetism in the coil. This will reduce the current that can produce a spark as the contact
breaker opens.
This can be overcome by loading the input (primary) winding with a ballast resistor and using a coil operating
at about half the total voltage. Such a system alters the time constant of the circuit by changing the ratio of
inductance to resistance, generally the resistance of the ballast resistor is similar to that of the coil.
It can be seen that the coil that can most rapidly draw current when the points close, is the coil with the ballast
resistor despite the fact that both are 12-volt coils and are both working at 12 volts. The greater the current that
a coil can draw, means the greater the magnetic field it can hold, although there comes a point of saturation
where increasing the current will not produce any more magnetism. So that when the contact breaker opens and
the magnetic field collapses, the greater HT output voltage. The greater the speed with which the magnetic field
can collapse, the greater the HT produced. It should be noted that with the contact breaker closed for long
enough both coils can start to draw a similar current, but this will be at low speeds. But at higher speeds the
length of time for the contact breaker to be closed and draw sufficient current to build up an adequate magnetic
field becomes critical.
The time spent charging the coil is called the dwell time. Increasing this beyond a certain limit does not
increase the magnetic charge in the coil it just produces more heat in the coil. It is not absolutely essential for
the coil to achieve a 100% magnetic charge, 90% is quite adequate
Some cars use a ballasted system that makes for easier starting where typically a 12-volt system uses a 6-volt
coil with ballast resistor of the same resistance as the coil. On start up the ballast resistor is short circuited
allowing the full battery voltage to be applied to the coil. This method is employed in the start-up arrangements
for vehicles fitted with ‘B Series’ engines that a 24-volt system with a 12-volt coil. In practice the full battery
voltage is unlikely to be applied due to the voltage drop caused by the high cranking current. No such start up
system is used on Rovers as the ballast resistor remains in circuit all the time.
Look at Kettering’s circuit diagram on page 2. It includes a current limiting resistor in effect a ballast resistor!
The basic 24-volt system
Note that all of the ignition coil windings are insulated from the metal case. There is no requirement for the coil
to be earthed, other than for RFI suppression. The windings only become earthed when the contact breaker in
the distributor is closed.
Distributor
The distributor has two functions. Firstly, to switch the incoming low tension (LT) supply on and off to the
ignition coil by means of the contact breaker (CB), the contacts themselves are often referred to as “the points".
Secondly to distribute the high tension (HT) generated by the coil to the sparking plugs in their prescribed
firing order. The rotor arm, as it rotates, distributes the HT to the sparking plug leads. Both the rotor arm and
contact breaker are operated by the distributor cam shaft that rotates at half the engine speed. The distributor
houses the capacitor that is mounted close to the contact breaker.
Capacitor
The capacitor, or in old terminology the condenser, has the ability to allow AC to pass but to block DC.
Although DC does not flow it does absorb a DC charge. It obviously can’t do this when the contact breaker is
closed as the capacitor is short circuited. However, as the points open, momentarily the capacitor does receive a
charge from the LT supply although no current is flowing in the LT circuit.
Once the contact breaker opens the magnetic field in the coil collapses, this releases an HT of about 15 kilovolts
in the secondary winding of the ignition coil. But it also releases about 300 volts into the primary winding,
quite unlike the LT of just 10 volts that was used to energise the coil initially.
The polarity of the charge in the capacitor is opposite to the polarity of the back EMF. This opposition of
charge has the effect causing an abrupt collapse in the coil’s magnetic field, which enhances the HT output.
Without a capacitor or with a defective one there will be increased sparking at the contact breaker. The engine
will still run but will give poor performance most noticeably when the engine is under load because of the
lower HT output. The tungsten alloy tipped points of the contact breaker will show increased pitting on one
point and a lump being formed on the other. This is a small scale version of metal transference that is the
principle of arc welding! It is important to use a proper distributor capacitor as it is designed to withstand this
voltage. Sometimes people fit a capacitor used for radio suppression, these capacitors will soon breakdown as
they are only designed to work with the vehicle’s battery voltage rather than the 300 volts that appears at the
contact breaker. Furthermore, such suppression capacitors will generally have a capacitance value far greater
than the design requirement. This will significantly hamper the effectiveness of the circuit.
When a capacitor is suspected of failure people sometimes go to great lengths to try to obtain the proper “24-
volt capacitor”. I know what they mean but the danger is they may end up paying a ridiculous amount of money
for the correct item. Or if taken literally they could end up buying a capacitor that is designed to work at no
more than 24 volts which is not what is needed here.
Leaving aside the fact that the coil works at 10 volts not 24 volts, the actual voltage emanating from the
primary winding as the points open is in the order of 300 volts. To give a good working tolerance capacitors for
distributors are rated to withstand a maximum voltage of 500 volts DC. Often they are unmarked but this rating
is implicit in their role. Sometimes they are marked, which can be reassuring.
The vast majority of distributor capacitors have a capacitance value of 0.2 mfd (microfarad) so it would seem
that one from a ‘B Series’ engine or just the standard Rover component is quite adequate. With a little ingenuity
many types of ignition capacitors can be fitted to the distributor.
Unless the capacitor is new and you know from its part number that it is of the correct electrical values do not
use it. I have once seen a distributor fitted with one of these on the right of the picture below.
Similar looking components and the one on the right when the bracket has been cut back, could be tailored into
the distributor. The capacitor on left is an Intermotor 33710 which equates to a value of 0.2 mfd 500 volts
maximum. However, the one on the right is a dynamo suppressor and is totally inappropriate with a capacity of
1.0 mfd and a maximum working of 150 volts. The problem here is that this capacitor will breakdown
internally yet with an ohmmeter would show very little wrong with it. The fact that the engine will still run
(after a fashion) is no indication of the integrity of the capacitor.
Those improvisations offer a cheap and easy substitute for the Lucas 484342 that is no longer available.
DCB121 is very similar to the original. For a greater outlay one can source the slightly smaller Lucas
D54403430 that has been found to have been fitted in service as a replacement.
The Lucas capacitor was originally identified in VAOS as LV6/MT8/484342 it became NATO codified as
5910-99-806-5802 this spawned identities for other services and replacement products:
16E24419 (RAF)
O821-484342 (RN)
DCB109 (TRW)
600730 (Rover)
Capacitor construction (paper & foil)

The most basic form of capacitor can consist of two metal plates in close proximity. The closer they become the
greater the capacitance, the problem is the closer they get the greater the chance of a spark jumping from one
plate to the other. By adding an insulating or dielectric sheet between them, then the plates can achieve their
maximum capacity for a given voltage. The only perfect dielectric is a vacuum, anything else is a compromise,
so the charge on the capacitor will gradually leak away.
Capacitors were originally constructed from two long strips of thin aluminium foil insulated from each other by
a slightly larger paper strip to form the dielectric. Another dielectric strip was added underneath so that all the
strips could be tightly rolled up without short-circuiting each other and providing further capacitance as the
other side of each strip was now adjacent to the opposite side of the other strip. The roll was secured by being
crimped into a metal tube that provided the contact to one of the foil strips.
The rolled foil is from a 0.2 mfd capacitor and unravelled, it extended to seven feet!
The problem is that even an unused capacitor will suffer from dielectric deterioration; this is most
disconcerting. Genuine capacitors may have been in storage for many years and are likely to be defective to
some degree. Therein lies the problem, even in a running engine the owner may not be aware of the reduced
engine performance as the capacitor has not suffered total failure. Where a capacitor has failed to perform as
intended it may well not show any obvious sign of failure even with basic electrical tests.
This shows the explosive power of a paper and foil capacitor in a plastic case.
Capacitor construction (metalized paper)

It will be noted that several of the capacitors shown as modified for fitting in this distributor are about half the
length of the original capacitor. How can a roll of paper and two rolls of aluminium foil be made to fit in half
the space?
The answer is that the construction is rather different. The smaller capacitor consists of a length of film (the
dielectric) that has been “metalized” by thin layers of metal that have been vacuum-deposited directly onto the
dielectric film each side doing away with the two lengths of foil.
These capacitors that started to appear after 1944 have the advantage of being more compact but also have the
property of “self-healing”. Tiny defects inherent in the final stages of manufacture can cause a leakage between
the opposing metal coatings, instead of there being a lasting short circuit the defect is vaporised in less than
10μs. It has not actually “healed” but failure has been averted, several thousand defects can make only a slight
difference to the capacitance.
So one might think that these metalized paper capacitors should go on for ever! Although a multimeter could
demonstrate no short circuit this is not really a useful test, only an instrument working at 300-500 volts can
show its true behaviour.
Capacitors and heat

Capacitors that get too hot will reduce their internal resistance and fail to perform as they can no longer hold a
charge effectively. As long as the heat is not too extreme when the capacitor cools its normal properties will
return.
Because the paper foil capacitors contain far more metal than metalized paper capacitors, they can dissipate
more heat. It should be noted that the capacitor (Lucas 484342) fitted to the DZS4A distributor was rated in
stores catalogues as “high temperature” although the same part number in vehicle parts catalogues is listed just
as “Capacitor, fixed, paper dielectric”. This shows the heat tolerance advantage of the older style of
construction, which is important because this capacitor will get much hotter encased in a cast metal distributor
than in a non-screened distributor with a plastic cap.
It will be noted that the original capacitors were marked with a ring of red paint. It is unlikely that the red paint
indicates that it has been tested as it can be tested in situ yet the paint extends to the full circumference. Later
versions of this capacitor also carried a red painted ring, as can be seen in this unused example (Rover 600730)
that is still covered in the protective covering of grease.
Given that this painted ring is on the capacitor at the outset it suggests that it may have given an easy indication
that this was a “high temperature” item to be used in the DZS4A.
In order try to reduce the heat, the distributor is constructed with ventilation holes but protected by a fine metal
gauze. This gauze also provides RF screening, although if it was for that function alone the gauze could be of a
much wider mesh.
A screened system by definition is intended for a radio vehicle and for much of its time might be static without
receiving the cooling effect of cold air as it moves along as in a general service vehicle. Add to this the
possibility of operating in the heat of the tropics, one can see the potential for heat problems.
Given that many people have installed the smaller (i.e. metalized paper) capacitors instead of the longer (paper-
foil) type, I decided to investigate how each type actually behaved when heated. I conducted tests with good
examples of both types using a hot air gun. I used a capacitance meter and observed just a small increase in
capacitance with heat. I used a Megger on the 500-volt range to measure leakage, curiously the samples I used
of both types seem to fail (i.e. insulation resistance goes down) at broadly the same temperature. Some hours
later when the capacitors had cooled the normal, the insulating properties had recovered.
In practical terms if the capacitor is too hot to comfortably touch its insulation is compromised. Once it has
cooled to being slightly warm it will have returned to its original state. Privately owned vehicles are very
unlikely to be exposed to such extreme heat, which is why I believe the fitting of the lower heat tolerant
capacitors does not seem to be an issue. Incidentally a capacitor that has defective insulation will only become
worse as it is heated.
Owners of vehicles with ‘B Series’ engines may wonder why their distributors generally use the smaller
metalized film capacitors that at least in theory are less heat tolerant. But these distributors have an isolated
chamber for the capacitor and cooling is effected by the circulation of air through two pipes.
Filter box
Of all the components in this ignition system it is the filter box that provides the greatest scope for fear,
misunderstanding and abuse.
It has two functions. It filters interference from being fed back into the vehicle’s electrical system but above all
it houses a ballast resistor to drop the 24-volt supply to 10 volts for the coil.
Note that this is not some sort of 10-volt transformer or converter, it is simply a resistor. When the contact
breaker closes a current flows through the ignition coil and the filter box resistor. The resistor is designed to
produce a voltage drop so that 10 volts will be supplied to the coil. This voltage must not be siphoned off in an
attempt to supply a radio or CD player. When the contact breaker opens there will be no voltage drop and
virtually the full 24 volts will be presented to any accessories that have been attached to the filter box output.
The diagram above originates from a Rover technical manual introducing the new screened 24-volt system. The
diagram has since been incorporated in EMERs and User Handbooks many times, unfortunately it is seriously
wrong. The way in which the coil is wired does not stand scrutiny, it will not work like this!
Following through on the diagram the +ve supply to SW passes through the filter box to the primary winding of
a few ohms resistance and then enters the distributor via the rotor arm, from there it can go no further. It is only
10 volts not thousands of volts and cannot jump from the rotor arm. Looking at the other path from the primary
winding through the secondary winding of many thousands of ohms, the current then passes to the contact
breaker when the points close. This current would be in the order of 0.003 amps; in fact, it should be about a
thousand times greater!
It surprises me that the error occurred in the first place and that it was never corrected. So I have redrawn the
diagram correctly.
In reality the 24v supply from the ignition switch first goes to the ballast resistor and then to the low pass Pi-
filter. So I have corrected the circuit diagram again.
The choke is drawn as having an iron core to enhance its inductance, in reality the ‘iron core’ is just the internal
retaining bolt. Using an inductance bridge, I measured the coil as just 18 µH (microhenries) the insertion of the
bolt had a negligible effect on the inductance. In fact, the bolt is not made of steel but it is brass that has the
effect of slightly reducing the inductance! So it is incorrect for it to be marked as having an iron core on the
circuit diagram.
Whatever the detail of the filtering arrangements it will have no effect on the workings of the ignition system
itself. Bear in mind that although the DC supply is being fed through the filter to the coil and the distributor, the
interference is travelling in the opposite direction back up the supply line. So it seems to be preferable to
address this problem as soon as it arrives at the filter box rather than provide an opportunity for the large
resistor to play a part in radiating interference and then to filter it.
However, a winding of wire by its very nature has inductance and the ballast resistor actually contributes 70 µH
of inductance, several times the inductance of the choke!
The Lucas filter unit type CH26 as originally described continued to be used in all FFR Series Rovers. Indeed,
one of the last publications on the subject dated 1983, still includes a single choke and two capacitors. These
components can be seen below in a 1962 filter unit. A feature of these early units is the asbestos panel fixed to
the side of the box adjacent to the ballast resistor.
A glance at the underside of most filter units you see today will reveal the component count is higher with the
addition of a choke and a capacitor. The filter above has no casting to support a third capacitor in the output
compartment and there is just a wire covered in a heat-resisting sleeve linking the choke and capacitor to the
ballast resistor.
The new filtering arrangement is represented below.

The additional choke (L2) although being more compact than the original choke (L1) has the identical
inductance of 18 µH. Although it carries less turns of wire its inductance is greatly enhanced by being wound
on a ferrite former. Being constructed from 22 SWG enamelled copper wire it is unlikely to burn out and is
rated at 7 amps.
Failures can occur at the soldered junctions from the feed wires. These wires have a cotton content to help resist
the effects of vibration but this makes them rather delicate and vulnerable to mishandling. It also makes the
wires very difficult to solder! The choke is protected in a plastic sleeve either black or yellow depending on the
manufacturer.
Ashcroft 7 amp 21 microhenries 70BG
DCC Type 816 7 amp

Those who have dismantled the filter unit for the heater fan will recognise that a pair of these chokes is used in
that application as well. All the Rover ignition filter units are marked with the generic type as CH26 on the top
cover followed by the Lucas trademark.
Next to this is the specific Lucas part number, starting as 47206 followed by a suffix letter. Later part numbers
were 54483158 and 552606. Below this there is a date code and on this one it is indicating week 9 of 1969.
Other filter units

Not all filter units that look the same are the same, this ‘filter unit’ has no filtering components! It was
presented for sale as having been stripped from a Land Rover by a Land Rover dealer.
This filter unit is not a CH26 but a CH33.

It was not from a Land Rover at all, but from a Centurion tank! It was from the Generator, unit, engine, Mk
2A/1 fitted to the Centurion Mk 3 and Mk 5. It was to supply the tank with electrical services without needing
to run the main engine.
Just as in the FFR Rover the distributor is a DZS4A but the coil is a BRS10, a Lucas 10-volt coil resembling the
Dingo BRS12 rather than the 5C10 in Land Rovers.
The original description refers to a CH26 filter unit supplying 10 volts to a coil from a 24-volt supply. But the
example here is a CH33; the ballast resistor is identical to that in the CH26. I suspect the CH33 is a
downgraded CH26 devoid of the filter components. It can be seen from the inside that it seems to have been
manufactured that way, although the capacitor support castings are present.
It seems an anomaly to refer to the CH33 as a filter unit as it clearly is not. The filtering here is from Filter,
ignition, No.1 Mk 2 that is widely used on Rolls Royce ‘B Series’ engines. It is able to attenuate interference by
at least 60db in the range 1.5 – 60 MHz something that the CH26 apparently could not achieve. The later
inclusion of another choke and capacitor to the design of the CH26 must have been an attempt to improve on
this.
Tropicalized
The EMER for the Centurion described the original CH26 as being fully tropicalized and on its derivative, this
CH33 is marked with a distinctive “T” to signify this. Equipment that has been tropicalized means that it has
been treated or constructed to, not just withstand excessive heat and humidity, but to resist attack by termites
and the like.
This marking only appeared on early filter units and even the date marking was later abandoned. In stores
accounting a tropicalized filter was catalogued TCH26, TCH33 etc. There were also distinct Lucas part
numbers for the tropicalized and non-tropicalized versions.
Capacitors
Capacitors fail with time and I assume for this reason the capacitors in the filter box are date stamped.
It is normal for a capacitor to have its value marked on it in some way but these are not marked nor do spare
parts lists identify the value or the maximum voltage. It can be deceptive measuring the capacity with a
capacitance bridge as the measured the value of the capacitor seems to give a higher reading as it deteriorates.
An EMER reveals the correct value of the capacitor is 0.2 mfd.
I don’t know what the expected service life would have been and I have never seen any instructions about
routine replacement of the filter unit but date stamped filter capacitors suggests it might have been important.
Interestingly the distributor capacitor is not date stamped presumably on the assumption that routine servicing
would dictate periodic replacement. Poor engine performance due to a failing capacitor can be identified and
corrected whereas a similar deterioration in performance of the capacitors in the filter box may initially go
unnoticed. The result of such a failure would be a progressive increase in ignition interference on the radios.
History of the ballast resistor

The idea of a ballast resistor in series with the ignition coil is not new, although the reasons for having such a
resistor have changed. Ignition coils were originally constructed, as one would expect by the primary being
wound over the laminated core first then over that was wound the secondary winding. The problem was that the
heat generated by the primary winding, which might be carrying 3 amps and on a 12-volt system this was 36
watts of heat. Whereas the secondary winding although carrying a high voltage is at minimal current and
therefore producing relatively little heat.
The way round this was to use a 6-volt coil in series with a ballast resistor of similar resistance as the coil.
Although the heat generated by the coil and the resistor was the same in total, the resistor could be mounted in a
cooler place away from the coil and the coil then only had to dissipate 18 watts of heat.
The benefit of reducing the time constant with a ballast resistor was not realised. Indeed, the performance of
engines of the time it probably didn’t matter that much. With some relish a REME book of 1953 describes that
ballast resistors can be done away with now that new coils can be made with an external primary winding. This
simply was the secondary winding being wound first and then the primary over it. That way the primary
winding generating the most heat was nearer the outer surface and could cool more readily.
The designers of the Rolls Royce ‘B Series’ engines were well aware of the advantages of a 24-volt ignition
system with a 12-volt coil and ballast resistor in conjunction with a fully screened ignition system. In World
War 2 vehicles such as the Dingo used a fully screened ignition system, although the supply was filtered it was
not ballasted and the whole system was run from 12 volts.
BRS12 coil for a Dingo. Note two rubber bungs (see later)
However, the Churchill tank used a screened ignition system with 6-volt coils (4 of them) and ballast resistors
in filters from a 12-volt supply. The first evidence I can find of the use of a ballast resistor in a screened
ignition system is in a German document dated October 1939.
Ballast resistor in the filter unit

There is little technical information on the properties of the ballast resistor in the filter box. EMERs and Rover
publications quote the resistance to be 4.4 ohms. It is not made clear whether this value is for the resistor itself
or if it is for the complete filter unit, which includes the resistor and the inevitable resistance of the chokes and
wiring. Given the resistance of all conductors changes with temperature, it is not evident whether this 4.4 ohms
is at the normal working temperature of the vehicle or the value to be obtained when measured ‘cold’ with no
current flowing.
So I decided to investigate the resistive properties of the filter box. It is notoriously difficult to accurately
measure low values of resistance. With any ohmmeter there is the problem of the resistance of the test leads, on
an analogue meter this can be ‘zeroed’ out but on most digital meters it is combined with the measured value.
Apart from this, the scale on an analogue meter is likely to be cramped and difficult to read with accuracy. A
digital meter displaying a value to several decimal places may give a false sense of accuracy, particularly as
most digital meters seem quite ready to display spurious readings when nothing is connected!
The answer is to pass a significant current through the component under test and measure the voltage drop
across the component. By Ohms Law the resistance is obtained by dividing the voltage drop by the current
flowing. It is advantageous to use a variable power supply that can be set to deliver several amps to get a
significant voltage drop. It is worth considering purchasing such a power supply for general workshop use such
as battery charging, running up automotive devices and making measurements of low resistance components
like ballast resistors and alternator windings. The particular unit I use can deliver 0-30 volts at up to 10 amps
and can be set to either constant current or constant voltage output.
The ballast resistor is actually two windings in series wound on an asbestos former. There is a second asbestos
block is to provide heat insulation for the wires that feed the resistor. This asbestos is varnished to discourage
the asbestos flaking but because of the heat dissipated on the asbestos former varnish cannot be used as the
entire ballast resistor has to dissipate about 40 watts. The utmost care should be taken when opening the filter
box as some asbestos dust is likely to be present. It can be seen on the inside of this unused filter box.
Never clear the dust with an air jet or by blowing. Only wipe it clear with a damp cloth and wear appropriate
personal protective equipment throughout any tests that involve access in or around the filter box. Follow the
guidance at http://www.hse.gov.uk/asbestos
I wanted to investigate the properties of the two ballast resistors; it was tempting to access their junction
without dismantling the asbestos assembly. It might seem that a test point could be gained by accessing one of
the heads of the two brass retaining rivets.
These rivets cannot be relied upon to make a good contact to the brass strip on the other side. It is not
uncommon for them to be slightly loose or corroded because the riveting is not especially tight as the asbestos
is easily crushed.
There are three brass strips that provide terminations for the windings where they are clasped and silver
soldered. The end of each strip is held in place by a rivet, rigidity for the asbestos former is provided by
supporting bolts with collars at each end. The middle strip has a hole drilled but in most applications it is
unused. The asbestos base plate is secured with three bolts to the casting of the box.
With the resistor pair removed I was able to simultaneously measure the voltage drop across each resistor. The
greatest accuracy being obtained when the current was adjusted to give a reasonable voltage drop across both
resistor windings. The problem with that is that a high current flow will increase the heat in the resistor, which
will affect the resistance being measured.
The test showed that the larger winding had a resistance of 3.53 ohms and the smaller winding was 0.62 ohms.
The initial measurements were taken at switch on at 20° C, this would change rapidly as the resistors heated up
with the current flow.
I wanted to know how the resistance of each winding behaved with temperature. So having set the power
supply to deliver a constant current of 3 amps I took voltage readings across each winding at half minute
intervals.
The resistance of the larger winding remained pretty constant at 3.53 ohms demonstrating it was made of an
alloy with a near-zero temperature coefficient such as Nichrome or Glowray. However, the smaller winding is
made of something like Nickel, which demonstrated a positive temperature coefficient as the resistance
increased with temperature.
This was clearly designed to allow the coil to draw more current at start up and then drop back a little once the
engine had run for a short while. Note that this is not a linear relationship.
Next I tested a complete filter box in series with the coil and distributor with the points closed. I set the power
supply to deliver a constant voltage of 28.0 volts, as this is the voltage that one would expect from a properly
functioning system.
The graph shows that after 6 minutes of continuous current flow through the entire ignition circuit that current
fell to a working level of just below 3 amps. This corresponds to the point when the smaller winding of the
ballast resistor had nearly warmed up, but this second test also includes the heating effects of the coil, chokes
and internal wiring.
After 15 minutes the temperature of the main resistor was about 240° C and that for the smaller resistor about
120° C. The ignition coil was only slightly warm at about 25° C. It should be remembered that in a running
engine these currents will only flow when the points are closed. These readings are based on a continuous
current flow, in effect a dwell angle of 360 degrees!
Effect of the chokes

The observant reader will have noted that the two elements of the ballast resistor have been measured with a
resistance of 3.53 + 0.62 = 4.15 ohms, which is lower than the quoted resistance for the filter box of 4.4 ohms.
Measurements taken at 3.0 amps showed that the resistance of the chokes contributed 0.25 ohms. The total
resistance is 4.15 + 0.25 = 4.4 ohms, which is in agreement with the quoted figure of 4.4 ohms. So the 4.4
ohms quoted for the ballast resistor is the resistance of the entire filter and this is ‘at rest’.
Manufacturing tolerances
Since conducting those experiments I have found a Centurion EMER that states the resistance of the main
winding at 20°C to be 3.5 ohms and for the smaller winding 0.7 ohms. These are close to my measurements
bearing in mind I have rather optimistically attempted to measure to a hundredth of an ohm! The variation
between my readings and the quoted figures are 1% for the higher resistance winding and 13% for the lower
resistance winding. We have already seen the lower resistance winding is markedly temperature dependant.
The 10-volt coil
Although the ignition coil is designed to operate at 10 volts one can see from the above measurements that in
practice once the ballast resistor has warmed up the actual voltage across the ignition coil was 9 volts, not the
expected 10 volts. To obtain 10 volts on the coil I found it necessary to increase the supply to the filter box
from 28 to 30 volts, such a high voltage is not likely to be obtained in a properly set up charging system.
That aside one might wonder why the nominal 10 volts was chosen rather than the 12-volt coil in a ‘B Series’
engine. One might think that the answer would be perhaps be the use of a lower inductance of the primary
winding allowing a more rapid collapse of the magnetic field giving a more consistent spark at high revs.
Although there is variation between the various versions of each type, surprisingly they all have broadly the
same inductance in the order of 12-16 mH.
The key is the loading of the primary circuit with resistance. In a ‘B Series’ circuit the ballast resistor is
designed to have a working resistance of 3.8 ohms which is a little bit more than the 3.2 ohms resistance of the
coil. This gives a total resistance of 7 ohms.
In the Rover system the warmed up resistance of the filter unit is in the order of 6 ohms. The coil resistance is
usually 2.8 ohms. This gives a total resistance of 8.8 ohms.
The time constant is proportional to the inductance of the circuit divided by the total resistance. Given that the
inductance of the primary is similar in both systems, the Rover circuit with the higher resistance will have a
lower time constant than in the ‘B Series’ system. In other words, at higher revs a circuit with a lower time
constant will be more effective at delivering an adequate HT.
Typically, ‘B Series’ coils have a secondary winding with an inductance of 40 henries whereas the Rover coils
have nearly double this being 75 henries, consequently a greater HT output.
Coil position
The location of the coil is determined by the particular model of the Rover (or maybe where a previous owner
has decided to move it). Whether the coil has been replaced in service or moved later its axial and rotational
position is important. These coils are not inherently waterproof and failure to allow condensation in the
screening can to disperse can give rise to coil failure. The coil cover is provided with two rubber bungs, when
fitted to a vehicle one of these must be removed.
Vertically mounted coil – remove the bung towards the rear of the engine.
Horizontally mounted coil – remove the bung on the lower side of the coil.
These instructions applied to all Lucas screened ignition coils and were issued in 1958. However, it is not
uncommon to see coils mounted inappropriately at manufacture and no attention paid to the removal of one
bung. There are two major problems associated with moisture build up in the screening can. One is the ease
with which the HT can leak away to earth. The other is the build-up of rust inside that is very difficult to see
unless using intense illumination.
The screw head that forms the central terminal for the HT is made of steel and can rust easily. This coil failed
tests with an ohmmeter and only using an endoscope to view down the central port could the extent of the
problem be seen.
The rusted terminal is a steel screw that retains a plastic seal over the filling point for the cooling oil. Once the
screw was removed the main body of the screw was in good condition in its oily environment.
Only by cutting the screening can from the coil case could the extent of the rust be judged.
Note the locating lug and pillar ensures the correct polarity at manufacture and stabilises the screening can from
any movement. Had the rubber bung been removed this damage could have been avoided as it would have
drained water very effectively being at the most dependent point. Unfortunately, early installations have the coil
connections sloping downwards so that water would pool even if a bung had been removed.
The slightest weakness in the integrity of the seal will cause oil to leach away, as the oil warms up it becomes
less viscous and can leak out more easily. This may not be noticed because it will accumulate initially in the
screening can. Given that the oil is there as a coolant, as more of it is lost the problem is compounded. If the
coil becomes too hot it may cease to function because the coil resistance increases with temperature. A reduced
current flow in the primary winding will cause a reduced HT output that may be insufficient to produce a spark.
Provided the internal insulation has not been damaged, once it cools it can recover temporarily. This can be that
annoying sort of fault when the engine runs but then conks out. Whilst trying to investigate the cause the coil
cools down and the engine can be started again.
Mounting the coil here does mean that it gets less hot than being mounted on top of the engine and mounting
the filter box here could also be said to reduce the heat exposure. But the problem here is not so much the
location but its orientation. Hot air rises and the purpose of the slats in the box is to allow the 44 watts of heat
produced by the ballast resistor to escape. It cannot do it very effectively mounted like this. A further
disadvantage is the resistor consists of resistive wire wound around an asbestos former. The windings are quite
close together and as the wire heats up it will expand, in this position there is a risk that the windings sag and
touch causing a short circuit. This will cause a greater current to flow not only in the ballast resistor but also in
the coil thus precipitating failure.
This is the more usual position for later installations and allows heat to be lost by convection from the ballast
resistor. Note that the filter box is painted black, which optimises heat radiation. Even at manufacture the bungs
are still present in the coil and the bung holes are not ideally orientated to accord with the earlier instructions
for screened coils.
Identifying screened ignition coils
The problem in identifying coils, distributors and sparking plugs is whether different part numbers are actually
identifying different components or not. The difficulties arise because:
1. Land Rover seem to frequently change part numbers. Sometimes this is merely a cataloguing exercise,
sometimes it is because of a component upgrade.
2. Early military parts catalogues identify components based on VAOS (Vocabulary of Army Ordnance
Stores) e.g. LV6/MT8/LU/45075 that incorporates the Lucas part number. Here 45075 is the Lucas part
number not to be confused with the Land Rover number 513281.
3. After NATO codification the same component appears as 6MT8/2920-99-806-6451. Sometimes cross
referencing to the Land Rover number but not the Lucas number.
4. Sometimes even a dedicated VAOS or COSA (Catalogue of Ordnance Stores & Ammunition) gives just
the generic code. In the example above this is the screened ignition coil 5C10.
5. Unfortunately, there are a number of quite different types within the 5C10 grouping.
6. Cross referencing part numbers of any type can be misleading if they are funnelled through a generic
code like 5C10 so that false matches can be made.
7. Cross referencing to RAF & RN part numbers that may be poorly matched or contradictory adds to the
confusion.
8. From time to time unlisted variants can be seen to have been fitted in service. Whilst appearing to
function satisfactorily one has to wonder if these were official substitutions or was someone else equally
confused and perhaps fitted an incorrect item?
Ignition Coil 3C12

(12v +ve earth)
Fitted to Car Heavy Utility Rover (12v) although User Handbook states it was 5C10
45117
45003
45061
45039A
Ignition Coil 5C10

(10v –ve earth)
The list of 5C10 coils below was compiled a range of official literature according to the NSN. Note that several
different Lucas part numbers share the same NSN. This may be because of an equivalence of function or they
are improvements or they are errors by people who do not appreciate the various differences. There appear to
be many contradictions including 5C10 being quoted as SC10.
2920-99-207-0483
FWMB3327 (Climax parts)
V03709
Used in Rapier generator
NSN deleted after duplication by 2920-99-806-6451
2920-99-806-6451
45075 Fitted Rover 8 & 9
45120 Fitted Rover 1, 8, S3 ½ Ton & 1 Tonne
45120E
45202
45202A Fitted S3, ¾ Ton,
45244
DLB152 Lucas
513281 Land Rover Pt no = 45075 Lucas also quoted as 45120 Lucas
552765, 552765A Land Rover Pt no
16E/24417 RAF MT item
O821-45120 RN MT item
LV6/MT8/LU45120 VAOS code pre-dates NSN
Complying with DEFSTAN 29-5 Defence Standard. Coils, ignition. Cancelled 7/9/81
45244 is curious because the primary resistance measured on a NOS example was only 1 ohm, unlike the other
versions of 5C10 that are 2.5 - 2.8 ohms. Yet I have seen 45244 on several vehicles that seem to have been
fitted whilst in service.
2920-99-805-1773
45202A Fitted Rover 10 & 11 ?
45202A Malaysia only!
45202A is most curious:

1. It appears in the parts list for the Rover 10 & 11 with the NSN 2920-99-805-1773.
2. But 45202A appears in the parts list for Rover Series 3 ¾ Ton as NSN 2920-99-806-6451.
3. Searching 2920-99-806-6451 equivalents does not reveal 45202A as an equivalent.
4. 2920-99-806-6451 is listed as supplied to seven countries including the UK.
5. 2920-99-805-1773 is only listed for Malaysia & not even the UK despite a 99 NCB allocation.
Lucas 425274
I can find no military part number for this version of 5C10, nor can I find any official reference to its existence!
Yet I have seen four examples, these were week and year dated 4/83, 9/83, 3/84 and 8/84. Two of these were in
Land Rover boxes with the Rover part number 552765, this is linked with the NSN 2920-99-806-6451 that
already covers at least six versions of the Lucas 5C10 coil.
Like its forerunners I can only assume these later 425274 coils were an improvement that slipped into the
supply chain by assuming an established Land Rover part number and associated NSN.
Rover 6, 7, 8, 9 & Heavy Utility

It that was not confusing enough, the early Rovers with screened ignition systems were of various electrical
configurations with specifications subject to regular change. Furthermore, the changing specifications brought
about designation changes so that with so many specification changes, the Rover 6 evolved into Rover 8 and
Rover 7 evolved into Rover 9.
FV18021B Truck, GS, ¼ Ton, Cargo, 24v Rectified AC, 4x4, Land Rover 6 (Spec. March 1961)
24 v screened, 40A AC charging, -ve earth
FV18021B Truck, GS, ¼ Ton, Cargo, 24v Rectified AC, 4x4, Land Rover 8 (Spec. Aug. 1963)
FV18041A Truck, GS, ¾ Ton, Cargo, 12v DC Land Rover 7

12v unscreened, +ve earth
FV18041B Truck, GS, ¾ Ton, Cargo, 24v AC Land Rover 7 (Spec. Sept. 1960)
FV18041B Truck, GS, ¾ Ton, Cargo, 24v AC Land Rover 9 (Spec. Dec.1962)
FV18042 Car, GS, Utility Heavy, 109” WB, 4x4, Land Rover (Series 2) - (Spec. Jan. 1959)
12v screened, 12v 25A DC charging, +ve earth
FV18042A Car, GS, Utility Heavy, 12v DC Land Rover 7 - (Spec. 1959)
12v screened, 12v DC charging, +ve earth
FV18042B Car, GS, Utility Heavy, 109” WB, 4x4, Land Rover (Series 2) (24v Rectified AC) – (Spec. July 1960)
24v screened, 40A AC charging, -ve earth
FV18042B Car, GS, Utility Heavy, 4x4, Land Rover 7 (24v Rectified AC) – (Spec. March 1961)
24v screened, 40A AC charging, -ve earth
Early history of coil types
Type P and L These very early coils had the primary winding nearest the central iron core. As most of the heat
generated is in the primary winding this had to pass through the outer secondary winding. Heat dissipation was
greatly improved on later coils where the secondary winding was wound first. Furthermore, early coils were
filled with bitumen that provided poor heat transfer compared with oil that was used later. Manufacturing the
later type was also cheaper and the HT insulation of the secondary winding was more effective with it being
deep within the structure.
Type Q – Standard type of coil with secondary wound first. Primary 400-450 turns. Secondary 16,000 turns.
Type B – Higher voltage coil. Primary 400-450 turns. Secondary 18,000 turns.
Type BR – Still higher voltage coil. Primary 400-450 turns. Secondary 20,000 turns.
Type ER – Earth Return coil. One end of secondary winding connected to primary. Cheap to manufacture.
Type IR – Insulated Return coil. Costlier to produce, can also be used on ER system, but ER coil cannot be
used on IR system. One end of the secondary is connected to case and is the lower terminal in this example.
Early screened coils

Screened Lucas coils were made during WW2 for vehicles such as Dingo that were of generic type BRS12.
As this is a BR type coil it gives the highest HT output available at the time, much needed to help offset the
power lost through the capacitive effect of the screened HT cables. ‘S’ indicates that the coil is screened and
‘12’ that it is for 12-volt operation. ‘ER12V’ indicates it is coil for an Earth Return system that is for 12 volts.
454 is likely to be the manufacturing date code for 4th week of the year (late January) in 1954. The specific
Lucas part number is 408131.
The summary of screened coils below includes the usual clashes between user handbooks, parts lists, stores
vocabularies and EMERs!
Ignition coil BRS12

(12v -ve earth)
Predate NATO codification, identified by the VAOS prefix LV6/MT8/LU/
Dingo, Commer Q2 FFW & Q4 FFW, Austin K9 FFW
408129
408131 (Also coded as Type Q12/BE2)
45051A
16E/19597 (RAF)
Ignition coil TBRS10-L-O
Prefix ‘T’ signifies ‘tropicalized’ & also applied to the associated TCH33 filter unit.
(10v –ve earth)
Predates NATO codification, identified by the VAOS prefix LV6/MT8/LU/
Morris auxiliary engine for Centurion
45006
45006A
In the 1950s Lucas superseded the BRS12 with 3C12 coils for FFW versions of some trucks, Car Heavy Utility
Rover 7 and some plant used by the RAF. Although these engines have a screened ignition system they are 12-
volt systems with a positive earth system, the filter unit contains no ballast resistor.
The ignition coil was originally BRS12 but this 3C12 is mounted vertically in an Austin K9 FFW. Probably in
the best position of all. If a bung is removed moisture can drain and if the central oil filler screw is not tight, oil
will not trickle out.
It is important not to use one of these coils in a 24-volt Rover system and worth considering whether a previous
owner may have made the mistake of fitting one! Although these 12-volt coils are used in conjunction with a
filter unit in the supply lead, these are quite literally only filters. They contain three capacitors, two chokes but
no ballast resistor.
Measuring electrical properties of ignition coils

The first thing to remember is that the coil has no earth connection, it will function irrespective of whether the
case is earthed or not. I have taken measurements of resistance and inductance for a wide range of coils. For
comparison the list includes not just 10-volt screened coils but 12-volt screened coils including some ‘B’ series
coils and unscreened coils for 6 and 12 volts. Any measurement on a screened coil can be tricky as it can be
difficult to be certain that the test probe is actually on the terminal inside, indeed the design of the probe may
prevent it entering fully. The most reliable way is to utilise some scrap leads.
Resistance can be easily measured with the ohms range of a multimeter. Unlike an analogue multimeter there is
no ‘zero ohms’ adjustment on a digital multimeter. Once the resistance of the coil is measured with a digital
multimeter the resistance of the test leads must be measured by shorting the ends together. The reading must
then be deducted from the reading for the coil in order to get the resistance of just the coil. Inductance
measurement requires the use of either an inductance bridge or meter. Inductance is the property of a circuit
that tends to oppose a change in flow of a current associated with a magnetic field. The ratio of inductance
between the primary and secondary winding has a bearing on the HT output. The bridge is tiresome to use as it
requires the juggling of three controls to find an optimised null point, which can sometimes be rather broad.
Quite cheap inductance meters are available that can also measure capacitance and resistance. These LCR
meters have an upper range of 20 h (henries) but this is too low to test the secondary winding (left). However,
there are some more expensive meters that have a range of up to 200 h and they are ideal (right).
The increased weight of the meter is due to the increased comparison inductance inside for the higher range, as
result there is no space to incorporate a capacitance facility in such a small meter.
Electrical properties of ignition coils

By studying the table below one can see a certain pattern. In particular, that the ‘B Series’ coils have a lower
inductance in the secondary but is higher in the 5C10 coils and higher still on the later versions. The inductance
of the primary brings sluggishness (increased time constant) in performance at higher speeds but remember the
effect of this is offset by the addition of the ballast resistor into the circuit.
The results below show readings obtained on a range of coils to illustrate how the properties of the 5C10
compare. With close readings I have taken the average, but with wider divergence I have recorded the spread.
The dates are those observed on actual examples.
Coil Lucas Working Primary Secondary Primary Secondary Common

Type Number Voltage Resistance Resistance Inductance Inductance Dates
5C10 425274 10 2.8 ohms 14 k 10-12 mH 75-80 H 1980s
5C10 45120 10 2.5 ohms 14k 12.6 mH 70 H 1980s
5C10 45202A 10 2.5 ohms 10 k 16.1 mH 75 H 1970s
5C10 45120E 10 2.8 ohms 10-12 k 16.0 mH 75-80 H 1960s-80s
5C10 45244 10 1 ohm 14 k 3.6 mH 70 H 1980s
3C12 45117D 12 3.2 ohms 6k 15 mH 55 H 1970s
BRS12 408131 12 3.0 ohms 3-4 k 14-16 mH 48 H Early 1940s
No.1 Mk 2 45035 12 3.2 ohms 6.5 k 14.25 mH 40 H Mid 1950s
No.1 Mk 1 12 3.2 ohms 7-7.5 k 12.5 mH 30-40 H Early 1950s
No.6 Mk 1 12 3.2 ohms 9.5 k 10.5 mH 40 H Early 1970s
GCL110 45209 12 2.8 ohms 7k 9.4 mH 55 H 1970s on
Jeep 6 1 ohm 3.5 k 6 mH 38 H Early 1940s
Consequence of reversed polarity of HT
Like many coils, the 5C10 was available in both positive and negative earth versions. It is important to verify
you are using the correct type either by the Lucas part number stamped at the base of the coil or by identifying
the polarity label stuck on the collar of the coil. It is also important to confirm that it has been connected up
correctly. The wrong polarity of coil or the correct one incorrectly connected will have three consequences.
1. The polarity of the HT spark will be reversed. The ignition coil doesn’t mind the change of polarity but the
sparking plugs do not function so well. Engines are designed so that the polarity of the sparking plug terminal is
negative. If the polarity of the spark is wrong, it would need a greater voltage for proper functioning. This is
because a spark finds it easier to jump from a hot central electrode than from the cooler side contact that is in
thermal contact with the engine casting. If the polarity is wrong up to 40% more HT may be required to create a
spark at the plug.
2. Sparking plug life will be shortened as metal will be lost from the side contact making gap adjustment short
lived. The central electrode is much longer and is designed for this erosion.
3. Similarly there will be increased erosion of the rotor arm. This will be explained in the distributor section
later.
I know of one Rover that left Army service with the connections to the coil reversed. The engine ran poorly and
needed a lot of choke, the rotor arm and the adjacent lead terminals were markedly carbonised. Correcting the
polarity of the LT terminals on the coil gave easier starting, smoother running and more power.
Modern unscreened coils have terminals marked – and + so that in a negative earth vehicle the – terminal
supplies the contact breaker, which on older systems was marked CB. Older coils used in a positive earth
vehicle should have the + terminal supplying the contact breaker. In either case the other coil terminal is fed
with the energising supply originating from the ignition switch that used to be marked SW.
The Lucas screened coils continued to be marked CB and SW and need to be considered with caution as they
are polarity specific. It is important to be certain for which polarity of vehicle they were intended. The polarity
indicator was provided by an adhesive label that is unlikely to remain in place for long.
If you consider an ignition coil as an electromagnet, if the wires are connected one way, the north will be at a
particular end. If you reverse the connections north will be at the other end. When the supply is disconnected
the magnetic field collapses and there is a whoosh of electricity (back EMF) back down those wires and on the
other (HT) winding. So if the magnet has been "charged up" with a reverse polarity then the HT back EMF will
be reversed. So you get a +ve HT at the sparking plug lead instead of the intended -ve one.
Often described as a simple test for the correct polarity is to hold a lead pencil in the path of a spark from the
HT lead to the sparking plug terminal. If the polarity is correct there will be a spark to the pencil but a flare
from the pencil to the sparking plug. If the polarity is wrong the flare and spark will be the other way around. I
have never tried this as it seems to be difficult to arrange and rather hazardous. It is better to use the voltmeter
method described later.
The major components in the system are stamped with the Lucas part numbers and date, which obviously will
outlast a stores label. It is a pity that the coil’s polarity could not be similarly stamped.
I have observed a number of vehicles with coils that have reversed polarity. It is wrong to assume that this is
naivety on behalf of the fitter because later coils as issued invite incorrect connection! Firstly the polarity
warning label is there to be read and it seems intuitive that it should be uppermost where it can be seen.
Secondly the coil as issued from stores is held in its clamp inviting it to be fitted that way as a direct
replacement.
The coil is mounted next to the filter unit; the screened output lead should connect to the coil’s SW socket. But
with the coil clamped like this it cannot be reached and can only fit into the CB socket, which of course is
incorrect. Note also that the drain bungs are uppermost so moisture cannot drain. One bung should be removed
and the coil re-clamped so that the un-bunged hole is the lowest. So being able to see the coil bungs uppermost
is not just an indication of the likelihood of rusted terminals within but a clue that the SW and CB connections
have been transposed.
Unfortunately, with the coil correctly mounted, it is not possible to read the polarity label. Although this might
seem only important at the time of installation, it would be reassuring for the label confirming the polarity of
the coil to always be seen.
Coil construction
The basic description of an ignition coil is a central laminated steel core over which is wound the secondary and
then the primary windings with the assembly then sealed in a metal can. In reality part of the steel to be
magnetised is around the coil in the form of a steel sheet with sections cut to match the laminations in central
core.
One might be tempted to think that the coil occupies much of the space within the case, but it is surprisingly
compact. The void is filled with oil that provides additional insulation between the windings and transfers heat
to the outer case.
Note that the first winding is the ‘secondary’ as it produces 0.25 milli-watts of heat, but the ‘primary’ produces
27 watts so that is wound on the outside of the secondary. This brings it into immediate contact with the cooling
oil and the case. The case is made of aluminium and is crimped over the terminal end.
The laminated cores give the coil a certain weight that means if it is dropped the aluminium case can be easily
damaged.
Despite the external damage there is no reason to suppose that it has damaged the coil, which is some distance
from the end.
The HT output is via the head of the screw sealing the oil filler plug. The screw engages into a spring that
presses against the central core where it is supported in a square recess within the top cap.
The ends of the primary windings are soldered to tags on the CB and SW terminals. One end of the secondary
winding is also soldered to the CB terminal and the other end is at the beginning of the coil where it is pressed
into contact with the central core.
Distributor DZS4A
The distributor performs three functions. Firstly, it switches the LT supply to the ignition coil by opening and
closing the contact breaker. Secondly it co-ordinates this with the rotation of the rotor arm that distributes the
HT to the sparking plugs. Thirdly it optimises engine performance by advancing the ignition timing according
to pre-set parameters.
The purpose of the sparking plug is to ignite the fuel and air mixture as the piston reaches maximum
compression at “top dead centre“ (TDC). The time taken for complete combustion of the vapour is irrespective
of engine speed. As the engine speed increases it is important that full combustion takes place increasingly in
advance of TDC.
As the points of the contact breaker close the coil is earthed so that a current flows through it, in effect charging
up the iron core of the coil with magnetism. It is only when the contact breaker opens that this magnetic field
collapses so that a voltage is induced in the coil. The highest voltage is in the secondary winding that provides
the HT to produce a spark in the sparking plug. A lesser voltage in the order of 300 volts is induced in the
primary winding and is added to the output of the secondary winding. This lesser voltage appears as a spark at
the contact breaker as it opens. As already described the capacitor’s function is to absorb this voltage and
minimise the spark.
The length of time that the current flows to charge up the coil is determined by the lobes on the cam on the
distributor shaft and the gap set on the contact breaker. This is often expressed as the dwell angle. The shape of
the cam is of course fixed but the dwell angle can be adjusted by the gap at the contact breaker. The gap length
has been predetermined by the manufacturer for optimum performance in a given distributor for a particular
engine. It is important that this is set correctly and measured from time to time as it can change as the contacts
will wear as indeed will the Paxolin insulator as it rubs on the cam. Paxolin is an insulator made of phenol-
formaldehyde resin-bonded paper.
Wear and tear

Just as an arc welder transfers metal through an electric charge so will even a minor spark at the contact
breaker. With time one contact will gain metal and appear with a nodule and the opposing contact will become
pitted where the metal has been lost.
Not only is there obvious pitting on this contact but under high magnification one can see an attempt has been
made to eradicate this with a file. Wherever possible a new contact breaker should be fitted and a new
capacitor. One of the symptoms of a failing capacitor is an increase in sparking at the contact breaker with
consequent pitting on the contact that is on the movable section.
Here the fixed contact shows a reciprocal addition of metal that has been transported by the spark across the
gap. If the pitting and deposition on the contacts are the other way round it is an indication that the CB and SW
leads to the coil have been transposed, this would result in an unfavourable polarity of spark in the engine.
Worn contact breaker points will increase sparking and make the moment of opening less distinct. This will
tend to reduce the speed of the collapse of the coil’s magnetic field and reduce the HT voltage. If the contact
breaker is not to be replaced, then the deposits of metal should be removed by carefully dressing it on a fine and
flat carborundum stone. The contact surface should then be cleaned with methylated spirit. A file should not be
used, nor should an attempt be made to eradicate the pit on the other surface. To do so is unnecessary and
increases the likelihood of a domed rather than a flat surface.
Setting the gap
The cam is rotated so that a lobe opens the gap to maximum. The gap is then adjusted by slightly loosening the
retaining screws and moving the contact breaker plate as it pivots on the base plate pin. For most versions of
DZS4A this gap is 0.014-0.016 in (0.35-0.40 mm). If the gap is incorrect then engine performance will be badly
affected.
Lubrication
As with most moving parts lubrication is required, in the distributor this needs to be done sparingly as it is
important that no oil spreads onto any electrical contacts. First lift off the rotor arm.
A - Smear a drop of clean engine oil on the cam.

B –Place a drop of clean engine oil on top of the pivot pillar.
C – A few drops of thin oil through the base plate hole to lubricate the advance mechanism.
D – A few drops of thin oil to the distributor shaft and cam bearing.
High tension switching
The high voltage from the ignition coil is fed to the distributor cap centrally where it connects to a spring
loaded carbon brush. Removal of the brush needs special care to avoid stretching the spring. When viewing the
inside of the cap, the brush should be gripped with the fingers and rotated clockwise whilst being pulled. This
has the effect of freeing the spring by slightly reducing its effective diameter.
The brush is in continuous contact with the brass arm of the rotor arm. The rotor arm is a push-fit held by a
keyway in the distributor shaft.
The distributor shaft rotates at half the engine speed and this is true irrespective of the number of cylinders in an
engine. The shaft of the DZS4A rotates in an anti-clockwise direction and as it does so it allows the end of the
rotor arm to come within 3mm of the brass pillars that are connected to the sparking plug leads. As the rotor
arm passes each pillar the HT jumps the gap by sparking, there is no direct electrical connection.
The 3mm gap was calculated by measuring the separation of opposing brass pillars then dividing this by two
then subtracting the effective radius of the rotor arm from the centre of the brush score marks to the furthest
edge. It may seem surprising that this rotor arm gap is many times greater than the gap for the sparking plugs.
The answer is that under compression sparks cannot jump so far, this will be explained in some detail later.
Many Lucas distributors have a 1.4 cm shaft diameter to mate with the rotor arm. Although the Lucas 400477D
rotor arm is fairly distinctive it is possible to fit incorrect rotor arms. The rotor arm is not marked with a part
number but its application to the 4-cylinder engine is confirmed with ‘4’ stamped on the brass section together
with an arrow pointing anti-clockwise.
The arc of metal at the edge of the rotor arm may seem unnecessarily long. The reason is to provide protection
against the effect of a back-fire to prevent the engine trying to run in reverse. This is discouraged by extending
the arm in the direction of rotation, so that the next spark is passed to the same cylinder. The stamping of an
arrow to indicate the direction of rotation is rather superfluous as the extended edge always points towards the
direction of rotation.
The rotor arm was originally catalogued as being of wood filled Bakelite construction. Bakelite is an insulator
formed from phenol-formaldehyde resin mixed, in this instance, with wood flour filler. Although black, it was
originally painted with anti-tracking red paint. Later rotor arms were entirely black and less commonly blue.
The distributor cap is also made of Bakelite and anti-tracking paint was applied on military, marine and
agricultural applications. It is enclosed in a zinc alloy screening can that gives it good mechanical protection. It
is not waterproof having a pair of air vents on each side and protected by steel gauze that also serves as an RF
shield.
Later caps were black or sometimes blue.

Spark polarity
Although this topic will be covered in the sparking plug section it is of relevance to the rotor arm. It has been
shown with the contact breaker that there is transference of metal from one surface to the other. The same
occurs in the distributor cap. If the polarity of the spark is positive the rotor arm will erode quickly as it will
lose metal to all four terminals. To preserve the integrity of the rotor arm it is desirable that the spark is
negative, although metal will be transferred from the terminals this will occur for only a quarter of the time.
The rotor arm will gradually acquire metal deposits that should occasionally be removed by dressing down on a
fine stone and cleaning with methylated spirit.
Advance
As the engine speed increases the point of ignition must take place earlier (advanced) so that there is sufficient
time for the vapour to burn. The ideal arrangement can be seen here where engine speed is plotted against the
degrees of advancement of the ignition.
Advancing of the ignition is achieved by a limited anti-clockwise rotation of the shaft supporting the rotor arm
and cam over the main distributor shaft. As the speed of rotation increases centrifugal force causes two identical
weights to fly outwards that has the effect advancing the position of cam. The weights are each restrained by a
spring and in the pictures below are shown without the springs and cam shaft.
If the weights and springs are identical it gives a rather abrupt result.
The behaviour of the weights is determined not just by their shape and weight but by the length and tension of
their respective springs. In practice the springs are unequal and designed to give two different slopes.
The cam fits over the main shaft and its degree of advance constrained by the tension of the two springs. The
weaker spring comes into play first and the stronger spring later. The second spring is a loose fit due to an
elongated loop at one end and does not become tensioned until a predetermined speed has been reached.
On early versions the two different springs were demandable as separate items but later one part number was
used to demand the two as a set. The weights although identical were only demandable as a pair and are the
same for all models, the different advance characteristics are determined by the springs.
The “first acting spring” or “restoring spring” is responsible for bringing the weights back to their initial
position as the contact breaker closes. A weakening of this spring can slow down the closing of the points as it
decreases the dwell time, at high revs this will cause misfiring. The points gap being too large also decreases
the dwell time giving the same effect. Conversely the points gap being too narrow increases the dwell time and
causes misfiring at low revs.
This use of weights to provide centrifugal advance is a power efficiency mechanism. Vacuum advance is an
economy device used in cars where the inlet vacuum provides some rotation of the contact breaker base plate. It
is not generally a feature incorporated on military engines.
Types of DZS4A
The distinctive appearance of the DZS4A is easily recognised and if there is any doubt the maker’s plate can be
seen where it is screwed to the side of the cast iron base. It has to be remembered that this is a model number
not the unique part number that appears on the top right side of the plate. Below it is the date code indicating
the week number in a particular year.
Listed below are all the DZS4A distributors that I have been able to identify together with specific types that
are catalogued as being associated with them. Where there is no Rover application identified, it illustrates the
point that there are a number of distributors that might easily be mistaken for Rover parts. I hope the associated
performance data might help the reader decide if a particular distributor would be of use. The distributor speed
is quoted and this is half the engine speed. The inclusion of all these DZS4A distributor variants should not be
taken as a recommendation to use them. The contact breaker gap for most models of DZS4A is generally 0.014-
0.016 inches unless otherwise stated.
Lucas coding
D – Distributor
Z – Rolling weights auto-advance mechanism
S – Screened
4 – Suitable for four cylinder engines
A – Fitted with automatic advance & retard
40037
(No NSN - predates codification)
*Gap 0.011-0.013 in
Listed in 1945
40037B
*Gap 0.011-0.013 in
3.5° at 400 rpm (distributor speed)
7.5° at 1,150 rpm (distributor speed)
10° at 2,500 rpm (distributor speed)
No advance below 200 rpm.
40037F
2920-99-806-4395
FV105648
Designated DZS4A/A141
*Gap 0.011-0.013 in
40533
*Gap 0.010-0.012 in
Fitted as FFW conversion to Rover Mk 3 & Mk 5.
0 to 1° at 750 rpm (distributor speed)
6 to 8° at 1,250 rpm (distributor speed)
18 to 20.5° at 2,250 rpm (distributor speed)
21° max at 3,100 rpm (distributor speed)
40680
*Gap 0.010-0.012 in
*Gap 0.014-0.016 in (EMER WV Q 022 Sect P-47) (WO Code No.18390)
Specified by Land Rover for fitting to Series IIA & Heavy Utility Rover 7
No advance to occur below 225 rpm.
40680A
Same as 40680 except no advance to occur below 130 rpm.
40680B
Designated DZS4/G127
Same weights & springs as 40753A
40738
Same as 40533 but longer leads
Gap 0.010-0.012 in
40738A
(No NSN)
*Gap 0.010-0.012 in
0.5° at 750 rpm (distributor speed)
40751A
Stated same as 40753A less leads but weights are same, but springs are not
40753
2930-99-402-7662.
*Gap 0.014-0.016 in (WO Code No.18358)
Fitted in ¾ Ton Series 3.
ISPL ½ Ton Series 3 quotes 40753A but this contradicts NSNs
526265 Land Rover Pt no.
O821-40753 RN MT Electrical
40753A (sometimes incorrectly quoted as 407539)

2920-99-806-6592
Designated DZS4A.1327
Used in Rover 1, 8 & 9
526265 Land Rover Pt no.
16E/24735 RAF MT Electrical
54410000 Prestolite
7° at 600 rpm (distributor speed)
40929A
(No NSN)
40936A
(No NSN)
40982A
(No NSN)
6.5° at 1,000 rpm (distributor speed)
41162A
(No NSN)
41499
2920-99-206-9911
54425581
FWMB3040-8, FWMB3040-9 Climax Parts
41880 41880A 41880B 41880C 41880D

2920-99-753-4336
ETC5960, ERC6971 Land Rover
552612
This is a Land Rover part no. but I can find no cross reference to it at all.
It is the stated version of DZS4A in MVEE Spec. 574.
Specification also states the sparking plug to be RSN 101 but this does not seem to exist either!
54425581
2920-99-206-9911
FWMB3040-8, FWMB3040-9 Climax Parts
Used in Rapier generator
In practice it is not possible to get weights and springs to perform with the precision depicted on the graphs
above, which is why advancements are often quoted for a range of degrees. Where a range is quoted I have
taken the average to simplify the graph below, this may explain why some responses are somewhat kinked.
Screened Sparking Plugs
One of the problems in identifying a sparking plug is that User Handbooks, Parts Catalogues/Lists, FVRDE
Design Specifications, Defence Standards, EMER, VAOS, COSA etc. may use just one or two descriptions to
identify a plug. I have trawled through many service publications to link together these items and tie up all the
various descriptions with (hopefully) the correct plug. There is some conflict in information further down this
list but I have given precedence to the REME documents as they are the people who are dealing with these
components first hand. There is a tendency for variants of the plug or even types to be bunched together if they
are useable, when in fact they are different items. These are all screened plugs with a 14 mm thread size with ¾
inch reach. The VAOS prefix LV6/MT4 signifies Common Electrical Stores for Mechanical Transport. The
NSC 2920 of the NSN signifies “Engine Electrical System Components, Non-aircraft” but if the NSC is 2925 it
is for aircraft.
2920-99-803-5883
For ‘B’ Series engines, Heavy Utility Rover (12v),
Rover Mk 3 & Mk 5 (FFR conversion kits) Rover 8, 10 & 11, APGP & early Rover 1
Commer Q4 (when screened ignition fitted)
Plug, Sparking, No.1 Mk 1
LV6/MT4/3343 (VAOS)
FV175878 (FVRDE)
270398 (Rover)
SRL14P (Lodge)
SRL14PC (Lodge)
RD6439 (Lodge)
Sometimes plugs were stamped RD6439 & SRL14PC, sometimes with a date prefixed by “LO”
Plugs of the 1950s stamped RD6439 & SRL14PC also included a FV175878 stamping.
Later plugs just stamped FV175878 appear not to be dated but carry codes such as A7, M5, etc.
O 5969-1916 (RN)
16E/13735 (RAF) - SRL14
16E/19002 (RAF) - SRL14P
FV817225 (FVRDE) * contradiction – see 2920-99-827-6304
RSN13PB (Champion) * contradiction – see 2920-99-827-6304
2920-99-804-0787
For J60, ‘B’ Series engines, Heavy Utility Rover (12v), Rover 10 & 11, APGP & early Rover 1
Plug, Sparking, No.1 Mk 1/1
LV6/MT4/79698 (VAOS)
FV342501 (FVRDE)
MVEE 3828A3 (MVEE)
RSN13P (Champion) *contradiction - see 2920-99-827-6304
RSN13PA (Champion)
NTS 14375 (Lucas)
FWB 1140-10 (Climax)
2920-99-827-6304
Improved version for J60 for CVR(T) & ‘B’ Series
Plug, Sparking, No.1 Mk 2
FV817225 (FVRDE) *contradiction – see 2920-99-803-5883
RSN 13P (Champion) *contradiction - see 2920-99-804-0787
RSN 13PB (Champion)
With RSN 13PB I suspect the suffix ‘B’ was administrative to identify this plug as the improved version of the RSN13P. It looks as if
the earlier plug retrospectively was suffixed ‘A’ to make this distinction.
Marked “W↑D FV/817225 Made in England RSN-13P” there is no mistaking this as an improved plug.
Unfortunately, the NSN was withdrawn on the basis that it was a duplication of an existing part. The National Codification Bureau
assigns NSNs and seeks to minimise duplication. But it seems this plug was not recognised for what it was i.e. an improved version of
the Champion RSN 13P. Rather extraordinarily details of this plug became fused to the details of the old Lodge SRL 14P and then
assumed its NSN of 2920-99-803-5883, which is not very helpful at all! A similar problem occurred with the RSN 12Y, which at
different times acquired three NSNs!
2920-99-301-3115
Limited use UK only, supplied for unspecified Rovers.
SRL14L (Lodge)
S 2490 (Lodge)
RTC4732 (Rover)
2920-99-813-5825
Rovers III onwards & replacement for earlier Rovers
RSN 12Y (Champion)
587343 (Rover)
ERC 9136 (Rover)
FWM 1140-14 (Climax)
RSN 101 (Champion) does not exist. Quoted in MVEE Spec. 574 & early S3 LtWt User Handbook
RSN PBA (Champion) does not exist. Quoted as factory fit in Rover 1 User Handbook. I suspect details of the plug were not given to
the authors & the abbreviation might mean “Published Before Advised”?
2920-99-803-6518
SRL 14 (Lodge)
RSN 8 (Champion)
RSN 12Y (Champion)
This item was considered to be duplicated & the NSN was withdrawn. The replacement NSN quoted was RSN8 as 2920-99-192-8690
(see below) & also for RSN12Y that seems inappropriate. Maybe the mistake was recognised as the RSN 12Y was more widely
identified by the NSN in the section above i.e. 2920-99-813-5825
2920-99-192-8690
Originally fitted to Rovers 10 & 11
SRL 14X (Lodge) Triple tipped
RSN 8 (Champion)
2920-21-107-7959
Canadian version of SRL 14X
28392
2920-99-803-7232
Austin K9 (when screened ignition fitted)
SXN 8B (Champion)
2920-99-825-7742
Short reach - 12.7mm ( ½ in) reach
Used in V8 101 - wrongly stated in UHB as “RSL92Y”
RSL87Y (Champion)
2920-99-803-6570
Short reach - 12.7mm ( ½ in) reach
O 569-19725 (RN)
RSL10 (Champion)
RF50 (KLC)
SR14 (Lodge)
RE41 (Morgan Matroc)
Champion Plugs
With Champion plugs the digits refer to the heat range, the higher the number - the hotter:
1-25 Automotive & high performance

26-50 Aircraft
51-75 Racing
76-99 Special & racing
So RSN12Y has a higher heat range than RSN8. No suffix indicates a normal arrangement for the gap. Suffixes
J, Y, R, G and P indicate variations. Y gap extends in a little further and has better anti-fouling properties as it
gets hotter (also indicated by 12 rather than 8). Broadly speaking RSN8 was fitted to Series 2A FFR Rovers and
RSN12Y to Series 3. If you have a choice use RSN12Y over RSN8 as the tip protrudes more it will run hotter
and foul less.
But plugs of the RSN13P type cannot protrude very far into the cylinder, once they become carbonised this
can’t be readily burnt off. This type of plug has a platinum electrode with a side contact. These contacts cannot
be adjusted nor should they be filed.
The RSN12Y protrudes deeper into the cylinder and is exposed to more heat that can largely burn off carbon
deposits.
Most socket sets have a specially extended socket for removing sparking plugs. But should it be remembered
that these are usually fitted with a rubber grommet to capture and retain a non-screened plug. This grommet
needs to be removed when removing a screened plug otherwise the socket will not engage deeply enough.
2920-01-041-7535
35400-CH Adapter for unscreened plugs. Patent issued in USA 1972.
These US adaptors have been used by the British Army to provide improved suppression for certain12-volt
vehicles in conjunction with screened cables and metal shrouds for the distributor and coil.
Fouling
Fouling of plugs is something that can occur very rapidly with a poorly running engine. Despite fitting new
plugs it can be very tempting to then assume that all remaining problems must lie elsewhere. They may do so,
but the eventual correction of other problems may be hindered by the plugs that have now become fouled.
This badly fouled RSN13P shows clear evidence of correct sparking at the plug gap, so why should one worry
if ignition is being achieved? There may be short circuiting through the carbon deposits, but testing for this with
an ohmmeter is pointless as it will read as an open circuit.
Look at the central electrode and it can be seen that there is a carbon free collar, this is significant because only
a high voltage can jump this gap.
This shows clear evidence of arcing despite the apparent normal sparking at the gap. The sequence below
shows the effect of applying 1,000 volts although that is insufficient to cause a spark at the plug gap. All the
sparking is at the insulator!
The pictures below show what happens when the voltage is increased to 2,500 volts. Although there is now
some sparking at the gap it is inconsistent and of a lesser intensity than the supplemental sparking around the
insulator.
A wire brush cannot reach deeply into the plug and there is a risk that traces of metal can get left on the
insulator although this can be minimised by using a brass brush and cleaning the insulator with methylated
spirit. The most effective way to clean such plugs is to ‘sand’ blast them. Years ago motor accessory shops used
to sell small battery powered ‘sand’ blasters. Although these can sometimes be found at autojumbles, they were
rather feeble devices. A much better device is a modern air powered plug cleaner such as this ‘Wally’ from
Spain, various versions are readily available on the internet. The abrasive compound can still be obtained from
some classic car specialists.
After cleaning it is important to thoroughly air blast the plug and to wipe the thread clean. It is also possible to
use a micro blaster for hobby use, although an air filter mask and eye protection should be used. Suppliers of
these devices can be a useful source of the abrasive powder, which for hobby purposes is a considerably finer.
This is often 50-micron aluminium oxide powder, actual sand is far too coarse for these plug cleaning devices.
To avoid damage to the insulator and electrodes blasting should only be done for long enough to remove
deposits. It is a very effective at removing deposits deep within in the plug and clearly can clean more
effectively than a wire brush. But there are some drawbacks!
Drawbacks of abrasive plug cleaning

There is no doubt that the most effective sparking plug is a brand new one of the correct type with a properly
adjusted gap. Examining a recently sand blasted plug one might assume this will behave very much as a new
plug but this is not the case unless the ends of the plug have been filed, adjusted and cleaned. The reason is that
the abrasive cleaning will round off the edges of the plug electrodes making it more difficult for the spark to
jump the gap, which will then require a higher voltage.
Sparking plug insulation

An often overlooked fault is failure of the insulation inside the plug sleeve. The centre lead of the screened
cable terminates through a porcelain shroud that nestles inside the plug against a roll of thin mica sheets. Mica
has high electrical insulating properties and can withstand very high temperatures. Unfortunately, it is very
brittle and prone to flake. If this occurs close to the central HT connector a spark can jump to the main body of
the plug. Clearly a much used plug is at greater risk of this fault, but it is surprising how quickly a new plug can
become damaged in this way as mica can easily flake away. The thickness of mica can be quite varied between
the various types.
Tapping an inverted plug over a sheet of paper may reveal mica dust as the result of damage. The injudicious
use of an air gun on an intact mica roll can easily damage it as the air lifts and breaks it.
Mica dust is hazardous if inhaled and damaged plugs need to be disposed of appropriately.
Sparking plug resistance

Modern sparking plugs have a built-in resistor to reduce erosion and radio frequency interference (RFI). A
resistance of 1,000-4,000 ohms is needed to reduce gap erosion by limiting the current flow. Sparking plugs
both screened and unscreened are said to have a capacitance of about 10 pf, I have taken measurements of many
types and found this to be incorrect. Unscreened plugs have a capacitance in the range 15-20 pf and screened
plugs 30-40 pf. Noise pulses find that it easier to travel to earth through this capacitance than back through the
resistor. Reduction in current flow will also reduce spark erosion on the terminals inside the distributor cap.
To reduce RFI a suppressor resistor of 10,000-20,000 ohms is needed. This level of suppression is inadequate
for military radio equipment and needs to be enhanced by a totally screened system. This is why most of the
screened plugs above only have a resistance in the order of 1,500 ohms except the very popular RSN12Y that
has a resistance of up to 15,000 ohms.
One might assume that unscreened plugs would have a similar high resistance but this is not usually the case.
Although the erosion reduction resistor is within the plug, the suppressor resistor is external. In early vehicles
this was provided by a screw-in resistor, later plug caps incorporated a built-in resistor. These days the
suppression is often supplied by resistive HT cables, although they have a poor reputation in terms of
reliability. The problems mainly occur at the terminating connections of such cables.
Although it is unusual for the plug’s internal resistor to fail, it is an easy test just to put an ohmmeter from one
end of the centre electrode to the other. The plug below was found to be open circuit. Once it was dismantled
the corrosion was very obvious.
Although the end contact cleaned up well, the ceramic insulator was already compromised by pitting.
Even on a plug with a clean contact, I have found some plugs can have an internal break in the resistor. This is
often bridged by a spark jumping the defect but it is not a plug that should be relied upon. There is quite a wide
variation of resistance values even amongst one particular type and make.
HT current & the effect of resistance
There is a widespread belief that any resistance in the HT circuit will weaken the spark. Even variations in the
plugs resistive properties are of little consequence as the current flow is very small. It is difficult to actually
measure the current flow in the HT circuit for the short duration of a spark under normal working conditions. I
found the best way to measure the current flow was to connect a milliammeter in series with a 2.5 kV DC
source applied to a RSN13P. This plug has a gap that will allow sparking at this relatively low voltage.
The result was a measured current of less than 0.5 milliamps (0.0005 amps). If one considers the effect an HT
of 10 kV applied to a sparking plug with a resistance of 15 kilohms and applies Ohm’s Law it will produce a
voltage drop of only 7.5 volts. This is clearly of no significance.
Capacitance of sparking plugs & screened cables

The proximity of the conducting wire in a cable to its external screened sheath introduces the problem of
capacitance. Capacitance is the property of absorbing an electric charge; this happens not just with capacitors; it
is present when conductors are close to each other. So not only has the ignition voltage got to provide a spark at
the sparking plugs it has to in effect charge up a capacitor as well.
The capacitance of typical screened HT leads from coil to distributor and to a sparking plug is about 160 pf.
The ignition coil being an autotransformer means that the effect of this capacitance is not restricted to the
secondary circuit; it is also reflected into the primary circuit by the ratio of the inductances. This means that
more capacitance is presented across the primary circuit. This has the effect of hindering the rapid collapse of
the magnetic field and reduces the HT voltage by about 30%.
This is the main reason why the gap on a screened sparking plug is in the order of half that of the equivalent
unscreened plug. The other consideration is that a smaller gap might radiate a little less RFI, clearly
advantageous in a FFR vehicle.
Sparking plug gap

The RSN13P comes with a 0.40 mm (20 thou) gap, this should not be adjusted. If the gap has increased beyond
that it should be discarded as the platinum coating would have failed. Any attempt to adjust the side contact
could lead to it snapping off either at the time or later on in the engine! It is often assumed that the other plugs
will come with a gap already pre-set by the manufacturer, this may be so but it may not be the gap required for
your particular application.
When I use any other sort of screened plug in a Rover or ‘B Series’ engine I gap the plugs to the recommended
0.38-0.45 mm (15-18 thou). It can be tempting, particularly if you have managed to fit electronic ignition, to
feel that a big spark can be created by a bigger gap. When the spark is created a circuit is completed, changing
the gap changes the time constant of that circuit. Increasing the gap intensifies the spark and so improves
combustion efficiency. It would be tempting to observe a sparking plug in air and increase the gap to a point
just short the spark failing. Unfortunately, such a spark will not be created when the cylinder is under
compression particularly when under load.
How high a voltage of HT is needed?

It is worth remembering that for a spark to jump across a gap of 0.030 inches (30 “thou”) at normal
atmospheric pressure a voltage in the order of 2,500 volts is needed. To jump the same gap in a Rover engine
about 8,000 volts is required. So although it might seem encouraging to see a spark directly on a plug under
test, it may not be delivering a spark when inside the engine under all conditions.
As the compression increases so does the required voltage to create a spark, this can be appreciated from the
diagram below based on a British Leyland training manual. A lean mixture will also need more voltage.
Loss of HT voltage
The reasons for this failure may be that there is an inadequate HT being produced or the HT is just leaking
away either in the cables getting to the sparking plug or in the plug itself. A high proportion of poor running
problems are attributable to the sparking plugs. This can be where the gap has increased or where ‘crud’ with
carbon has built up on the porcelain insulator. But it is disheartening that sufficient carbon deposits can quickly
build up on a new plug to cause poor running in a poorly adjusted engine. It is so tempting to assume that there
could be no faults attributable to the plugs as new ones have only recently been fitted.
Measuring HT
As the HT voltage in a screened system is lower than in an unscreened system; the sparking plug gap on
screened plugs is narrower than on unscreened plugs. This should be remembered when measuring such
voltages. If the HT output is to be measured it must be done with a load connected, such as that provided with
the sparking plug attached. Without this the measured voltage will be higher than it will be in practice and
without somewhere for the HT to go it could give rise to a breakdown in the insulation within the coil.
The problem with a screened plug system is that none of the commercial plug testers will allow direct
connection. So it is well worth constructing an adaptor from a spare screened lead and connector to allow
various tests to be carried out. It is easy enough to make a sensing cable from an old sparking plug lead, by
removing the outer screening and fitting a bulldog clip at one end. This can be used for making HT voltage
measurements or conducting insulation tests on individual sparking plugs.
One of the simplest ways of measuring the HT is to use a device with an adjustable air gap, based on the
premise that in air a spark derived from 30 kV can jump one cm. So by measuring the maximum length of spark
achievable across an adjustable gap will give an indication of the voltage being produced. But this premise is
flawed because the 30 kV/cm guide seems only to be based on spark between metal spheres. Sparks can jump at
a much lower voltage between more pointed electrodes.
A device that illustrates this is the Flashtest that was made by Gunsons where the spark gap is more like 18
kV/cm. The Flashtest is no longer manufactured but can sometimes be found at autojumbles. The voltage to
distance ratio is not actually linear and this is taken into account on the calibration of the lower scale.
‘Flashtest’ courtesy of Gunsons
With the engine not running, the method is to disconnect one plug lead and insert the tester between the lead
and the sparking plug. Once the engine is running the gap is increased by cautiously opening the jaws of the
device to a point where the spark ceases, the maximum voltage delivered is the point just before the sparking
ceased. The tester is calibrated with the gap length with another scale for the HT voltage. The voltage can be
measured under different running conditions and the performance of each plug can be evaluated in turn. Of
course a short circuit or leakage in the plug could still produce a healthy spark on the tester. So it is only an aid
to diagnosis not an absolute test that all is well.
But if there was a low HT at idle but no spark obtainable with acceleration this could be detected and indeed
this could be identified even with just a neon testing device.
Although neon plug-in testers can give an indication of the presence of HT they are very imprecise. What is
needed is a voltmeter that requires a direct connection between the HT adapter and earth, not in series like the
previous testers. High voltage probes are available for multimeters but are not suitable for measuring short
pulses. Unfortunately, my 10 kV electrostatic voltmeter was not able to respond fast enough to the short pulses
of an ignition system and the needle just quivered at 2 kV.
There is a device that is designed to cope with pulsed voltages and that is an electric fence voltmeter. This
worked very well averaging the HT pulses to give a fairly constant reading.
On the left is the reading on tick-over and on the right the reading with the sparking plug disconnected.
With no load the voltage goes shooting up, so what might seem a healthy HT output is actually an indication
that there is no sparking! Unfortunately, this meter cannot distinguish the HT polarity. An elegant way to test
polarity would be to construct a potential divider from resistors to feed an oscilloscope to observe the waveform
as well as the voltage and polarity. Although there are specially designed automotive oscilloscopes the
expenditure is hard to justify for the amateur workshop.
A very simple test for polarity is to use an analogue multimeter set on its high highest voltage range, this could
be 1 kV or ideally 2.5 kV. With the ignition turned off, connect the positive lead of the multimeter to chassis.
Disconnect the ignition coil HT output lead and insert the negative lead of the multimeter into the ignition coil
HT socket. Turn the ignition on but do not start the engine. Flick the contact breaker’s points open and closed
with an insulated screwdriver. An upward flick of the meter’s needle shows that the spark polarity will be
correct. If there is a downward kick of the needle the SW and CB connections on the ignition coil need to be
reversed.
A particularly useful device is the Actron Peak KV Tester; this can measure HT on a particular lead and check
for reversed polarity.
It requires no direct connection to the HT cable as the pickup is purely capacitive via a clip that goes around the
HT cable.
As the sparking plug fires the LEDs illuminate accordingly up the scale, there is a degree of persistence that
makes assessing the voltage easy. Operating the reversed polarity switch should cause a reduction in the LEDs
illuminated, an increase in LED readings means the HT supply polarity is incorrect.
Incorrect polarity of the HT comes about by the ‘SW’ and ‘CB’ leads to the ignition coil being interposed. It
may seem extraordinary that this could happen as the coil has engraved markings adjacent to the relevant
connections and indeed connecting the leads incorrectly requires some severe stretching of the ‘SW’ lead. I
have never seen a coil fitted incorrectly from manufacture; the problem only arises where coils have been
replaced.
Testing the ignition coil

An important thing to remember about the operation of the ignition coil is that there is no need for it to be
earthed to the negative supply. The three connections to the coil work independently of an earth supply. The
coil of course needs to be held rigidly and so when mounted it does get earthed. The only electrical benefit is
improved RFI suppression, but it has no influence on the functioning of the engine. This should be borne in
mind when testing spare coils as no connection needs to be made to the coil case.
As I described earlier, ignition coils can be tested for resistance and inductance. Probably few of us would have
access to an inductance meter, particularly one able to measure the high inductance of the secondary winding.
Although these tests can give a pretty good guide to functionality, they do not test for leakage to earth or
between the windings and for this a Megger type instrument is needed. Again this is a device that not many
vehicle owners possess and besides the voltage needed to test for insulation breakdown at working voltages is
not available on most instruments.
The best test of all is to test the coil for correct functioning in its normal environment. Substituting a coil in an
engine that has just been running properly would be one way. But the most common scenario is one where the
engine has stopped running or at least is not running properly and one is trying to diagnose the failure.
The alternative way to test the suspect coil, or indeed evaluate any spare coils, would be to construct a test
bench. This could be a spare distributor driven by a small motor at a speed that should be half the speed of the
engine. The problem is a suitable motor is not easy to find nor is it easy to arrange a drive system for the shaft.
Apart from all that it would be a rather bulky contraption.
Ignition coil testing machine

The device I am about to describe is small, simple and cheap. It can be carried in the vehicle to test a coil whilst
on the vehicle or used at home to test spare coils. It side-steps the need to use the filter box as it runs from 12
volts, so it could be used on an unscreened 12-volt vehicle. Although the screened coil is designed for 10-volt
operation short term testing at 12 volts should cause no trouble. The increased voltage will not mean an
increased HT output. Although the coil will draw slightly more current, once the iron core is magnetically
saturated an increased current cannot increase this saturation.
Using a mechanical drive to switch the input to the coil on and off is unnecessarily complicated and difficult to
reproduce. An electrical switching system is a much neater alternative. The most sophisticated way would be to
construct a pulse generator built around say a 555 timer integrated circuit to drive some transistors capable of
switching several amps. I really couldn’t be bothered to spend several days sourcing components and building
such a device. Besides I wanted something that was simple to build and was easily reproducible by others.
A relay is an electro-magnetic switch and it can be wired so that it continuously switches itself on and off in a
similar way to an old fashioned buzzer. This switching process can be used to energise an ignition coil in the
same way as the contact breaker in the distributor. I used a standard 12-volt 40-amp automotive relay that can
be purchased new for as little as £2.
This relay has five Lucar blade terminals that are identified with a code based on DIN standards. These are not
easily seen, so for clarity I have re-labelled them.
With no power applied 30 is connected to 87a (“normally closed”). When power is applied to the winding
through 85 and 86, the electro-magnet is energised breaks the contact of 30 to 87a and connects 30 to 87
(“normally open”). The switching and the coil winding circuits are completely isolated from each other within
the relay.
By wiring the supply to the coil winding through the “normally closed” contacts, the relay can be energised.
But of course as it does so the “normally closed” contacts are opened and it switches itself off. In so doing it
turns itself on again and repeats itself so that a high pitched buzzing can be heard.
Just as the contacts at 30 and 87a go through this on/off cycle there is a reciprocal off/on cycle between 30 and
87. These can be used to switch the supply to the primary winding of an ignition coil with a similar action to the
circuit breaker of a distributor. The relay contacts are rated at 40 amps but to minimise arcing and to improve
coil switch-off efficiency a distributor capacitor of 0.2 mfd is wired across them.
Now the circuit has suddenly got more complicated! A major drawback of this switching system is that it is
much too fast for the ignition coil to properly function and the output is very low. I found the easiest way
reduce the speed of switching was to add an electrolytic capacitor across the “normally closed” contacts, the
charge in the capacitor holds the relay on for a little longer.
The effect of this capacitor can be heard as the relay noise changed from a high pitched buzz to a low rumble.
The coil performance improved dramatically from a spark barely a few millimetres to a couple of centimetres!
An electrolytic capacitor is unlike a normal capacitor in that it does not work until a voltage is applied. It
consists of two plates of different metals separated by a chemical paste. The advantage is that very high
capacities can be achieved in a relatively small component. In this instance I have used 500 mfd, the value is
not critical, double the value could be used but the capacitor then gets rather large although it will reduce the
relay speed. Less than 500 mfd means the relay will move too fast and the “dwell angle” may not allow the coil
to fully magnetise. The rated working voltage for the capacitor could be in the 25 volt to 40 volt region.
Although it is connected to an inductive device the back EMF from the relay winding is only a few volts.
Because the back EMF from the ignition coil can be around 300 volts, distributor capacitors are rated at 500
volts. For that reason, a distributor capacitor should be used in this circuit. I have added a neon panel light to
indicate this back EMF from the primary of the coil. This shows at least the primary circuit and its switching is
functioning. It is best to choose a clear lens indicator as it will not glow very brightly. This is because the 0.2
mfd capacitor is doing its job by absorbing most of the back EMF. If one wanted to economise the neon
indicator can be omitted as it is not essential to the working of the tester.
Construction
The layout of the components is not critical. I chose to make the unit fairly compact by using a plastic project
box and soldering the wires to the relay rather than using Lucar connectors. Those who are averse to soldering
and want to use crimp-on connectors will need to use a bigger box. I used the threaded shaft of the push button
to secure the support bracket for the relay. The distributor capacitor was the normal 0.2 mfd type used in Series
2 & 3 Land Rovers. Note that the securing bracket is not flush with the case of the capacitor. To secure it I
drilled a hole in the lid and fitted a 6BA nut and bolt. The thickness of the nut was sufficient to support the
bracket above the level of the lid. The bracket was secured with a solder tag, lock washer and another nut. The
head of the bolt on the lid was insulated by fitting a plastic screw cover cap, this is important to prevent
receiving an electric shock during testing.
I decided to mount the components in the lid rather than in the base of the box for ease of access and to allow
the markings on the relay terminals to be identified. The electrolytic capacitor, the neon indicator and the
external feed wires were secured by the use of a glue gun. The two blade fuses were just tucked inside with the
lid, which is secured by screw at each corner.
Safety
With any ignition circuit great care needs to be taken as there may be voltages as high as 20kV. It is sobering to
realise that when vehicles in Northern Ireland were fitted with electrified protection they operated at 13kV.
Similarly, care needs to be used when testing coils even with this driver. The push button is a safety feature so
that once connections are made good, only then should the circuit be activated. I strongly advise against the use
of a toggle type on/off switch. The fuse in the positive line is just a sensible precaution in any external circuitry.
A twin core cable of 5-amp rating should be used to power the tester from a 12-volt supply.
This supply can be from an independent battery or just one battery in a 24-volt vehicle. If using a 24-volt
vehicle, it is very important to only use the battery that has its negative terminal going to the earthing strap. Do
not use the battery that has its positive terminal supplying the main 24-volt feed, because the negative line of
the tester will be live with the positive supply from the other battery. As an additional precaution against this
eventuality it is wise to fit a fuse in the negative line of the tester as well.
During operation do not touch any terminals including the SW and CB leads to the coil primary. Although these
are energised by a 12-volt input, when that supply is interrupted the winding will produce about 300 volts of
back EMF. That is why the neon is flashing and these indicators were designed to respond to 230-volt AC
mains! You should avoid touching any terminals, this is why the screw head on the lid has been insulated with a
plastic cap.
Loading the coil output

In any ignition circuit is important to give the spark somewhere to go. It doesn’t matter whether this is jumping
the gap in a sparking plug or it is dispersed in an HT testing indicator. Unless the HT output from the coil is
given a path to “earth” that can be jumped by a spark, then it will attempt to find a path within the coil and
cause a breakdown in the insulation.
Although one could rig up a test gap to assess spark length, there are ready-made devices that are neater, safer
and far easier to use. The Gunsons Flashtest is no longer available but there are several types of tester that have
an adjustable gap that gives an indication of voltage with a slide-on plastic scale calibrated in 2.5mm steps. For
greater clarity of the gap the sleeve has been removed for this photo, for obvious safety reasons the tester
should only be operated with the sleeve fitted.
Start by setting the gap to the minimum amount, which is about 3.4mm. The output from the coil HT and CB
connectors are fed to each end of the spark tester.
Measuring HT output
The lead provided should be clipped to a lead from the CB lead of the coil and another lead from the terminal of
the spark tester to the central HT output connector of the coil. If the coil is upright the spark tester can simply
be dropped into the HT terminal of the coil.
The leads from the test box are then connected to CB and SW leads from the coil. Taking care to avoid
touching any exposed wires, press the button on the test box. If the primary is working the neon indicator
should be flickering and if the secondary is also working a spark should be observed within the spark tester.
Release the button and increase the spark gap by several millimetres more by rotating the adjuster knob anti-
clockwise, then test again. Continue this until no spark is produced, then reverse the process until a spark
returns and measure the length of the gap. A point will be reached where an occasional spark occurs; the
measurement should be taken when there is regular and consistent sparking.
Comparisons can be made between spare coils. Bear in mind there are several versions of 5C10 and these have
been manufactured over a thirty-year period so there are likely to be differences in performance even without
any deterioration taking place. The spark tester gap is calibrated in length rather than voltage. Although this is
of no great consequence for comparisons, I think it is helpful to get an idea of performance in terms of voltage
as at the lower voltages the relationship is far from linear. The graph below is based on the calibration scales of
the Gunsons Flashtest.
It should be noted that the electrode ends on the Flashtest are rather flat and stumpy whereas the spark gap
tester has pointed electrodes that will launch a spark more readily. So the voltage depicted in blue on the graph
below significantly underestimates the length of spark gap that can be achieved with pointed electrodes. As this
was such a difference to what I was observing with the pointed-tip tester, I decided to take some measurements
of my own and the result can be seen on the red plot.
Sparking plug voltage

Sparking plug gaps of course are not as wide as 20mm or so! In the case of the RSN12Y plug, which is
commonly used in FFR vehicles, the gap is set at about 0.4mm. So for plug gaps we are only looking at a lower
left corner of the graph shown above. Studies from the 1860s to the 1920s demonstrated that the shape of a pair
of electrodes affects the ease with which a spark can jump an identical gap. Spherical electrodes require the
greatest voltage, square tipped electrodes require less and pointed electrodes require the least voltage. But
pointed electrodes will quickly erode in a sparking plug, so plug electrodes are a compromise with flat sharp
surfaces. All makes of plug will have slightly different properties but their behaviour is fairly similar.
The graph below is based on a study in 1925 by the U.S. Standards Bureau. Although the study was on behalf
of the Army Air Service it referred to the conditions that might be found in automotive practice. It showed the
relationship for a range plug gaps on plugs from different makers and the minimum voltage required to make a
consistent spark in air.
Researching the effects of temperature & pressure

Sir William Harris conducted research on lightening conductors for ships of the Royal Navy earning the nick
name “Thunder-and-Lightning Harris”. After years of campaigning against the intransigence of the Admiralty,
in 1831 one of the first ships fitted with the new protection was HMS Beagle. In 1834 he published his research
on the effects of sparking voltage with changes of temperature and pressure.
It had long been known that an increase in gas pressure makes it more difficult for a spark to travel and an
increase in gas temperature makes it easier. Harris showed that it wasn’t quite as straight forward as that. He
showed that it was the gas density that determined if a particular voltage could create a spark across a given
gap. Whilst he varied pressure and temperature so as to provide a constant gas density, the required voltage
remained the same.
It was Friedrich Paschen who in 1889 showed that the voltage required for a spark is closely related to the spark
length times the gas density. Gas density is related to volume, temperature, pressure and the chemistry of the
gas.
Effect of pressure
For the moment it is easier to just consider the effect of pressure. It has to be remembered that the air we
breathe is already under pressure, defined as 1 atmosphere or 1 bar (appx 14.7 psi). This can be taken to be the
air pressure at sea level, although this varies throughout day. It is easy to estimate the maximum pressure in an
engine with say a 7:1 compression ratio; it is simply 7 x 1 = 7 bars (or 7 x 14.7 = 102.9 psi). The relationship to
voltage for a given temperature is almost linear at these pressures.
The graph above is just a guide; it is a fusion of data from several sources that have not specified the
temperature. As we have seen the temperature of the gas affects its density, but so does the chemistry of the
gas.
Effect of vapour composition

We have seen that gas density is related to the chemistry of the gas. In a combustion chamber the gas chemistry
is determined by the ratio of air to fuel, the leaner the vapour ratio, the higher the voltage needed for
combustion.
Earlier I described a coil testing machine that incorporated a capacitor designed for a distributor. It is true that
an ignition coil will perform to a degree without a capacitor, but it will lead excessive wear at the points
through arcing and give a reduced HT output. The benefit of a properly functioning capacitor cannot be
overemphasised.
Importance of the capacitor

I mentioned that in the coil tester the neon indicator will glow only dimly because of the action of the capacitor.
It functions by reducing sparking at the relay contacts in the same way as it reduces sparking at the points of a
contact breaker. In so doing it encourages a rapid collapse of the magnetic field in the coil when the coil is
switched off by absorbing the back EMF from the primary winding. This greatly enhances the HT output from
the secondary winding, so when testing a coil for output it is important that a capacitor is incorporated.
The blue shaded areas below show how fast the magnetic field in the coil collapses as the contact breaker
opens. Compare how the blue shaded areas are influenced by the presence of a capacitor.
See how the more rapid collapse of magnetic field is important in increasing the HT output from the secondary
winding. This is at the rate of 5kV per ten thousandths of a second.
Note that with no capacitor there is no swing of voltage below zero. But with a capacitor there is a decaying
swing of voltage below zero, this is due to the opposite charge in the capacitor dying away and being reflected
in the secondary voltage.
In practice this swing is more pronounced as can be seen on the oscilloscope trace I took of the voltage on the
coil primary when using the tester.
This compares favourably with traces seen on professional automotive oscilloscopes. Note that the polarity of
the charge on the capacitor is the opposite of the primary winding, which is why the capacitor is so good at
causing an abrupt collapse of the magnetic field. Note that if the primary SW and CB connections are reversed
the voltage trace seen here would be inverted.
Fault finding equipment - Multimeters

I think it is always worth carrying a multimeter in your vehicle. Many people these days use digital
multimeters, these are seductively accurate as they can display to several decimal places. But even quite
expensive ones can decide to display gibberish readings, especially if they are auto-ranging, without being
connected to a source under test. This is confusing and frustrating if you are testing a circuit to see if there is
any voltage at all. So you have to wonder whether there is some random voltage being measured or is it the
multimeter just being silly? Particularly during the stress of a breakdown you need to be able to be certain of
what you are measuring.
If a multimeter is adopted as bit of CES kit, it is very likely that when you come to use it the batteries will be
flat or significantly low. There are no such problems with an analogue meter that requires no internal battery to
measure voltage or current. Admittedly it will have a battery for the resistance range, but at least if that was low
the voltmeter range can still be used. The digital meter is a paradox because it cannot measure the voltage of its
own battery and if it could, should you believe it!
At home I use an Avo 8 or Avo 12, although these are sturdy and reliable, they are bulky and heavy, so do not
lend themselves to a permanent presence in a military vehicle. The cheapest of analogue multimeters can be
purchased for less than £5 and might seem quite adequate as an emergency test instrument. Most of these are
usually limited by having a DC current range of 250ma (0.25 amps), but there are a few very cheap ones that
can measure 500ma (0.5 amps).
If you are prepared to pay around £15 you can get a much better quality instrument altogether. This will be
easier to read and have improved ranges including a continuity buzzer and a 10 amp range both of which can be
useful in automotive testing.
There is that old saying that you get what you pay for! Both meters above have a screw to zero set the needle.
Both meters were zero set when vertical, but when horizontal the cheaper meter read somewhat below zero.
Even resetting to zero according to the angulation then measuring 1.5 volts showed nearly a 20% error on the
10v range. The difficulties were compounded by the fact that there is no scale calibration for the 10v DC range,
so you have to read on the 50v range then divide by 5.
All that is not desirable but maybe tolerable in a basic meter for emergency use. However, the switch contacts
seemed rather unreliable, the reading obtained would vary according to the pressure put to turn the switch; this
was most noticeable on the ohms range. A test instrument that cannot be relied on is really not worth having,
particularly if you have broken down and in no mood for mental arithmetic and trying to fudge the switch to
work.
Bulb test prod

For those who feel that the purchase of a multimeter is a step too far into technology or for those want a simple
yes/no voltage indicator, a test bulb prod has a lot to recommend itself. It is simple to use and lends itself to a
rapid diagnosis, particularly in situations where there is poor light. These test prods just consist of a metal spike
in series with a bulb going to a lead terminated usually by a “Bulldog” clip.
The bulb of course is rated for the working voltage of the vehicle. Those on sale are mostly 12v rated but 24v
versions are available but often for twice the price! But it is an easy matter to fit a bulb of whatever voltage you
choose, provided the glass of the bulb can fit inside the spring.
I have modified mine in two ways. Firstly I have covered most of the shank with heat-shrink rubber to reduce
the chance of an accidental short circuit as it is only the pointed end that is important. I have also sharpened and
narrowed the point; this helps with making a more precise targeting and can be useful for penetrating the
insulation of a wire where no easy test point is available.
Be wary of such products as the one below. It was claimed to be a 12v circuit tester although it is fitted with a
12v bulb it is only powered by a 1.5v battery! Connecting the prod to the clip completes the circuit but of
course fails to illuminate the 12v bulb.
I queried this anomaly with the seller who told me that he had sold hundreds with no complaints but he was
unable to comment further as he was not technically qualified. A replacement was offered but that would not
have solved the problem! So I decided to replace the bulb with one rated at 1.5v and now use it as a continuity
tester. The drawback of using powered testers is that when you need to use it often the battery will be flat!
Wherever possible it is better to use non-powered testers that rely on the energy from the vehicle’s batteries.
Even an inspection lamp that most of us carry can be pressed into service.
It is important to verify that any test lamp is working and the dashboard auxiliary sockets are very useful for
this. But it is worthwhile putting the test prod on the terminals of just one battery to judge the level of
illumination on half voltage. This will be useful in later tests on the distributor when verification of 10v will be
needed.
Fault finding equipment – Connecting cables

It is well worth salvaging a spare set of the three connector leads for the screened coil from a scrapped system.
None of the terminations within the coil allow access with normal test prods, although the thin prods of the very
cheaper meter do allow this. But the point is you cannot successfully aim and hold two prods onto the contacts
whilst also performing tests. You need to be able to screw in the proper connectors that align themselves in
place and stay connected.
It is desirable to have a set of these leads available for doing individual coil tests. I appreciate that not everyone
will have had an opportunity to buy such leads at a reasonable price. So for that reason the fault finding charts
later on are based on the assumption that these leads will not be available. It means that some of the tests are
slightly more longwinded but it will allow tests to be done with the minimum of special accessories.
It is also worth buying a set of small jump leads. They come in a variety of colours and are very useful for more
making temporary connections whilst conducting tests by linking meter test prods to components under test.
The most commonly available type can be seen on the right, the grade of wire is quite thin, the wires are often
poorly crimped into the crocodile clips and the insulating sheath over the clip tends to slide around when you
go to clip anything.
The type on the left is much better, not only is the wire thicker but it is soldered onto the clip, which is itself
more substantial than the other type. Even so the thicker ones should only carry a few amps for a short period,
but the thin wire type will quickly heat up due to the small but significant resistance. Often there will be heat
generated by the crimped connection because it can offer additional resistance. I have had leads where there is
no electrical contact and it is just the insulation that has been crimped! So it is worth testing the continuity of
any leads you buy with the ohms range of a multimeter.
If you find yourself in the possession of the thinner type it is well worth cutting off the wire, which you will
find has remarkably little copper in it and soldering on a much stouter wire. Then only use these stouter jump
leads for situations where a few amps are carried.
Fault finding preliminaries

With the engine failing to run one has to decide whether the problem lies with the fuel system or the ignition
system. It is important to first establish that fuel is reaching the carburettor, even with an adequate fuel supply
the fault could still lie within the carburettor. But following the axiom that 90% of what seem to be “carburettor
faults” are actually ignition faults, it is often more profitable to explore the workings of the ignition system.
A speedy and accurate diagnosis of an ignition fault is best achieved by following a logical approach. This
could either be from the supply voltage into the ignition system to the plugs or working back from the other
end.
However, a more pragmatic approach is best adopted because in the screened system it is not easy to work
through everything in a ruthlessly logical way. The tests that follow are focussed on testing bits of the system
that can be easily accessed and then deciding if the fault is upstream or downstream.
These tests require no special equipment other than a multimeter or at least a 24v test prod. It is assumed that:
1. Fuel is reaching the carburettor.

2. The batteries are in good condition, all their terminals are tight and clean, the earth bonding strap is
satisfactory in its anchorage and that the starter motor is operating normally.
All tests on the ignition system need to be set up with the ignition switched off. During tests any disconnected
wires need to be positioned away from any metal components and resting on some plastic or rubber sheeting.
This is important as the ignition supply is unfused.
Only then turn on the ignition, but not of course the starter motor. As each stage of testing is completed switch
off the ignition before getting set up for the next test. Any tests that require removal of the dash board should
only be done having first isolated the vehicle’s batteries. If you have a battery isolator switch that makes life
easier. If not the safest way is to undo the earth strap connector going to the negative battery terminal. The
reason for this is that if the spanner should accidentally touch the vehicle’s bodywork it is quite safe as the
bodywork is at the same potential. But there are serious dangers if the 24v positive connector is the one
disconnected, it is only too easy for the spanner to momentarily touch the metal bodywork resulting in a very
large current flow causing a fire or an explosion.
Although the tests are for 24v measured on a meter, a bright illumination on a test prod is also a good indicator.
Similarly testing for 10v can translate as a much dimmer illumination with the test prod.
Note that the initial tests on the filter unit are to verify the presence of 24v; the output only drops to 10v when
the contact breaker is closed.
Assuming we have established that 24v is now reaching the coil. The next stage is to investigate the behaviour
of the coil and distributor. All the precautions listed previously should be followed especially turning off the
ignition prior to disconnecting any of the system. These tests are chosen to gain as much information as
possible with the minimum of dismantling and with the minimum of test equipment.
Tests on the distributor
In the tests that follow, in order to get the contact breaker to close, use the starting handle to turn the engine
over very slightly. Obviously the gear selector should be in neutral and the handbrake firmly engaged. If you
have no starting handle you can flick the starter motor on with the ignition switch hoping to find the distributor
has closed the contact breaker. A more predictable process would be to remove the sparking plugs and
manually rotate the fan until you can see the contact breaker close.
Although it is possible to use the blade of a screwdriver to short circuit the points to simulate their action, but it
is important to establish that the contact breaker will close with rotation of the shaft. It is equally important to
verify that this closure does complete an electrical circuit and when open that the required gap is present and it
breaks the continuity.
For convenience Test 3 does allow for a diagnostic path where the contact breaker happens to be open. A path
may develop where the contact breaker needs to be closed, this will also be required for Test 4.
For access to Test Point 8 first undo Screws “C” otherwise the nut on the capacitor cannot be undone without
causing damage to the lead. Tilt the base plate up to undo the capacitor’s nut. The original nut was 4BA but the
shorter replacement capacitors have a M7 thread.
Test 5 is a version of Test 1A that also involves testing the integrity of distributor circuitry.
Verifying the HT output, rotor arm and sparking plugs.
Test 6 requires the connection of a short jumper lead from the central carbon brush in distributor cap to the
brass pillar for each lead. To test for a spark a 1cm air gap is needed, this is far bigger than the gap on a
sparking plug as in air a spark can travel further than under compression in the engine. Choose an earth point
(scratch paint off if need be) but do not use the carburettor as an earth point for fear of an explosion!
I should emphasise that all these flow charts are to present a diagnostic discipline to be followed in the panic
that can ensue having broken down. Particularly with the sparking plugs much time can be expended examining
and contemplating the detail of their status and indeed cleaning them, but not at the side of the road. For this
reason it is worthwhile carrying a set of clean and adjusted sparking plugs.
Problems when looking for a spark

Test 6 verified that there was enough HT voltage to generate a spark and Test 8 demonstrated that this was
sufficient to produce a spark across the small gap of a sparking plug. What it does not indicate is whether this
sparking still occurs when in the engine under compression. If the spark produced in Test 6 was at least one cm
it would be likely that there is sufficient voltage to provide a spark at the plug under compression. But it would
be nice to verify this.
One way might seem to be to fit a neon indicator in the HT lead to the sparking plug. There are many types of
neon indicators that can be permanently or temporarily fitted to the plug leads. Unfortunately, they are not
compatible with a screened ignition system, so it is necessary to make up at least one adaptor as described
earlier.
Even with such an adaptor it is still very awkward making a connection to one of the in-line neon indicators.
However there is a relatively new device that is very simple to use. It only requires holding it close to the
adaptor HT lead to get capacitive coupling. The tester is held at the metallic end so that the grooved red end
snuggles around the HT cable. Holding the metal end provides an earth path in a similar way to a mains neon
tester, the difference here is that the voltages are considerably higher and no direct connection is made into the
HT supply. When the engine is turned over the neon will flash as HT is delivered to that particular lead.
These sort of ignition tests are often taken to mean that there is sparking at the plug gap. But this is not
necessarily true! All it shows is that there is HT being produced, it does not prove that there is a spark at the
plug gap!
The problem of carbon deposits allowing sparking at the plug but not actually at the spark gap was covered
earlier. But there can be another type of fault at work.
This RSN12Y plug was working perfectly but then failed to function. It was abrasively cleaned and examined.
Resistance tests with a multimeter showed no short circuiting and there was continuity of the centre conductor
from one end of the plug to the other. The plug was unscrewed, which required significant force as the copper
crush ring ensured a very tight union.
It was disappointing to see the poor depth of cleaning from the abrasive cleaner.
Particularly as it obscures the cause of the failure, a circumferential crack in the insulator.
A spark can easily jump from the central conductor through the crack to the metal body of the plug or even just
to the carbon deposits on the insulator itself that are in contact with the body. So this is a short circuit, but it
will not show up on a normal ohmmeter. It was not until I applied 5kV did it show conductivity through the
crack.
The initial problem with this plug was detected by loosening all the plug connectors from their respective plugs
but letting them still rest into the sparking plugs. The standard test is to run the engine and lift each plug
connector away in turn. The external screened part of the connector and lead are safe to hold, but to avoid
an electric shock you need to be careful to avoid touching the central connector terminal or even getting
within an inch of it as a spark can jump this distance! A sudden change in engine performance can be heard
as each connector is lifted away and replaced. Where the lifting of a connector makes no difference to the
engine performance it is a sure sign that the associated plug or cylinder is malfunctioning.
Had this test not been run and the unscreened adaptor used in conjunction with the neon tester, it would have
flashed apparently normally on all of the plugs. Very misleading!
Testing insulation - looking for leakage

Many of us are familiar with Ohm’s Law. This in essence states that the DC voltage across a component
divided by the current flowing through it measured in amps is equal to a constant. This constant is the
resistance of the component measured in ohms. It is only constant if there are no physical changes such as
temperature.
But when high voltages are involved this law might seem not to be valid. We are all familiar with the thick
layer of insulation over the HT leads in a normal ignition system, yet low voltage circuits have relatively thin
insulation. If we applied an ohmmeter to the insulation of this thin wire and to the wire itself there would
appear to be no continuity.
An attempt to supply a high voltage through the thinly insulated wire would lead to failure as a spark would
jump through the thin insulation. So the insulation around a wire is only good up to a certain voltage when the
insulation breaks down and allows a current to pass. There is no such thing as a perfect insulator, an insulator is
only effective up to a certain ‘breakdown’ voltage. This is even true in air where a spark can only jump once a
critical voltage is reached.
Insulation can deteriorate with age and physical damage such as crushing, being bent, abraded or damaged by
heat. In an unscreened ignition system such damage may be of no immediate consequence unless the damaged
cable is near another conductor that would allow a spark to jump. However, in a screened system it only needs
one tiny defect to allow the HT to leak out through the insulation to the screened sheath. A normal ohmmeter is
unable to detect such a defect; this can only be done with an instrument that can generate a high voltage.
The first high voltage insulation tester was manufactured in 1889, although it was not until 1903 that the
trademark “Megger” was registered. Colloquially an insulation tester is often still referred to as a Megger, much
in the way that a vacuum cleaner is synonymous with Hoover. Meggers were originally powered by a hand
cranked generator to produce the high DC voltage (shown left). They were a little awkward to use with one
hand holding the instrument steady whilst cranking with the other hand. The development of transistor inverters
powered by dry batteries meant that a high voltage could be available at the touch of a button (shown right).
The inverter models originally used a moving coil meter but there are now digital ones that perform well.
Although the high voltage invertors have to be activated by a push-button, great caution needs to be exercised
to ensure the button is not triggered in error or pushed into the ‘lock-on’ position. A cautious person might feel
more at ease with a handle activated Megger, on the basis that you have to start winding the handle to deliver an
electric shock to yourself!
I have yet to find a REME Inspection Standard that gives a tolerance for the insulation properties of screened
components, the best I can find is to “use a Megger to check that an open circuit exists”. To test the insulation
of spark plug lead, it is necessary disconnect it from the sparking plug and connect one prod from the Megger
to the centre core and the other to any part of its metal sheathing. The highest voltage range should be selected
which is generally 1,000 volts. The needle will flick a little to the right and then gradually swing back far to the
left a few millimetres above ∞ the infinity mark.
The needle moving to the right is the effect of a charge being delivered due to the capacitance of the screened
cable, for an average plug lead this is in the order of 35 pf. This charging effect explains the very random
display when using a digital instrument as it charges up. In the case of either type of instrument some seconds
will elapse before the needle or the digital display stabilises. In the case of analogue instruments, the reading
should be high, which will render it undiscernible in the very cramped edge of the scale. With a digital
instrument reproducible figures can be obtained for a range of voltages and these days instruments with
additional ranges of 2,500 volts and 5,000 volts are affordable. Ranges below 1000 volts the highest reading is
20 gigohms whilst ranges of 1000 volts and over the range is extended to 200 gigohms.
1 kilohm (KΩ) – 1,000 ohms
1 megohm (MΩ) – 1,000,000 ohms
1 gigohm (GΩ) – 1,000 megohms
Testing the plug lead insulation

I tested a screened plug lead whilst attached to the distributor at various voltages, which showed that as the test
voltage increased, the resistance of the insulator decreased. I also tested a second lead and got a more
impressive result!
Lead 1 Lead 2
100v 9.5 gigohms 8.6 gigohms
2500v 5.3 gigohms 0.4 megohms
5000v 2.8 gigohms 0.4 megohms
I have no doubt that Lead 1 would function quite satisfactorily as the readings are very high despite the
decrease in resistance with the increase in voltage. But Lead 2 showed a dramatic breakdown in the insulation.
Not only did the reading plummet to 0.4 megohms (0.0004 gigohms) but is was accompanied by the sound of
arcing and the smell of ozone and burning. A clear demonstration that to test insulation you need to use the sort
of voltages that will be present in the system.
It has to be remembered that any leakage in the distributor cap itself is also being tested. Should all four leads
show poor insulation, they should be removed and tested individually as should the distributor cap. When
removing a lead, it is important to fully remove the contact screw for the lead from inside the distributor cap
before undoing the nut for the sheathing. Otherwise there is a risk of tearing the cable.
Inspect the contact screw to ensure it is clean as any arcing at the tip would indicate that the inner wire was
damaged possibly from being previously dismantled. In which case the entire length of cable should be
replaced with copper ignition cable, not resistive cored cable. The screw and its fitting are designed to limit the
penetration to ensure good continuity but avoid crushing the cable. Ideally cables should only be penetrated
once.
If replacement of the cable is undertaken, it is best to replace the end at the distributor first. Before moving to
the plug connector do a continuity test with an ohmmeter from the centre wire to the corresponding pillar in the
distributor cap. A reading of virtually zero ohms should be obtained, this verifies that the cable itself extends
deeply enough into the distributor cap and the connecting screw has penetrated the insulation to reach the inner
wire. It would be prudent to also test the continuity of the other leads in this manner.
Testing the distributor cap insulation

Check the inside of the cap for moisture, carbon brush dust, dirt, oil and cracks. It is as well to wipe the inside
of the cap with a dry and clean cloth. If no obvious cracks can be seen, then proceed with the insulation tests.
The distributor cap can only be tested if all five leads are detached from it, otherwise a fault in one lead could
be confused with fault in the cap. Clip one lead from the Megger to the metal cover over the cap and the other
lead to each of the brass pillars in turn as they are tested. For the connection to the rotor arm supply gently clip
the lead to the carbon brush.
Testing the rotor arm insulation

In a similar way the rotor arm should be inspected for cleanliness and for any cracking particularly where it fits
the shaft. The outer edge of the arm may appear slightly roughed, this is the normal deposition of metal from
the four brass pillars. If the edge is pitted, it shows that the HT is of the wrong polarity and positive spark in the
engine will give rise to poor running. Reconnect the SW and CB on the ignition coil the correct way round.
The rotor arm can only be tested whilst fitted on the shaft of the distributor. One lead of the Megger goes to the
shaft and the other to any metallic part of the rotor arm. This was a typical result:
100v > 20 gigohms

250v > 20 gigohms
500v > 20 gigohms
1000v 18.0 gigohms
2500v 11.6 gigohms
5000v 7.2 gigohms
So things only start getting meaningful when the test voltage approaches the operational voltage. Certain types
of crack might not flag up a problem with 1000 volts or less but are only evident at 5000 volts.
Testing the ignition coil insulation

In the most common arrangement with an earth return (ER) coil, it is not necessary for the ignition coil case to
be earthed, it will function whether it is dangling free or correctly bolted down. But one end of the primary and
secondary windings are connected to each other and it is important than no part of the windings allow a leakage
of voltage to the case.
To test the internal insulation, the Megger leads should be connected to the coil case and any of the three
terminals as they are linked together. The oil within the coil acts as means conducting heat to the case and as an
insulator. A high voltage has more difficulty passing through oil than air, loss of oil will increase the internal
heat in the windings causing the insulating varnish to be lost resulting in “shorted turns” and give an
opportunity for the HT to arc to the case. It follows that 5000v is going to be more likely to identify this
weakness than a Megger that has a maximum range of 1000 volts. These are readings obtained on a brand new
coil that had exceptionally good insulation.
100v > 50 gigohms

250v > 50 gigohms
500v > 50 gigohms
1000v 44 gigohms
2500v 40 gigohms
5000v 35 gigohms
Testing a hot ignition coil
It is inevitable that any coil carrying 3-4 amps will produce about 35-50 watts of heat from the primary winding
when the contact breaker closes. As modern coils have the primary winding over the secondary winding, this
heat will be transferred by the oil to the outer case. So it is inevitable that the coil will become very warm, but it
should not get so hot that you cannot put your hand on it. If it gets this hot, there are two possibilities. Either
there are some “shorted turns” in the primary winding by the breakdown in the insulating varnish that covers
the wire or there has been some loss of oil.
As the oil is also there as an insulator, any loss of oil can give an opportunity for the HT to start to discharge to
earth via the case giving a reduction in output or none at all. There has always been debate as to whether a coil
should be mounted horizontally, vertically and which way up. It is interesting to note that Lucas tests on the
performance of coils required that the coil be inclined at an angle of 45° with an LT terminal uppermost. With
negative earth so that the SW terminal is uppermost and positive earth so that the CB coil is uppermost. If there
is some air present in the coil it ensures that the junction of the primary and secondary windings is submerged
in oil and affords greater insulation for the high voltage than if it was uppermost. Maximum oil coverage could
be assured with all terminals facing down, but it would be difficult to read the markings. So it would seem best
where a coil is mounted horizontally, to rotate it so that the CB terminal (in a negative earth system) is biased
downwards.
The problem with a coil that fails due to heat is that it may work perfectly well at the start of a journey but after
half an hour of travel there is tendency to stall at junctions and general loss of power leading to a complete
breakdown. To confirm the diagnosis, cautiously put your hand towards the coil to judge the radiated heat,
trying not to grasp it as you may receive a burn. If you call a breakdown organisation, by the time help arrives
the coil will have cooled down sufficiently for the engine to run again. The answer is to have a spare coil that
you can fit yourself.
The problem is how do you know that the spare coil is going to be any more reliable? The only answer would
seem to fit it and see if you conk out in another half hour. Having suffered such a breakdown recently I decided
to compare the functionality of the bad coil with what were hoped to be good coils.
I used 12v coils for these tests as these were more plentiful and it avoided the complications of heat changing
the resistance of the ballast resistor.
With a regulated power supply that could monitor both voltage and current I connected the coils in turn for
periods of up to 20 minutes. This doesn’t reflect the time taken to get hot in the vehicle as in the vehicle the coil
heat is generated only when the contact breaker closes. Before I started I measured the insulation resistance of
the coil at 5,000 volts and then repeated the measurements periodically during the test.
The first result shows the behaviour of a good looking used coil but it can be seen that as the oil heats up the
performance as an insulator deteriorates.
Despite a dramatic fall in the insulation resistance from 10 gigohms to 600 megohms after 20 minutes it was
still able to produce a good spark and the case was not especially hot despite this continuous current. The
known bad coil was able to produce a good spark when cold and had a leakage of 26.5 megohms at 5,000 volts.
Notice that after 20 minutes the insulation plummeted to 1.42 megohms at 5,000 volts. The coil by now was
quite hot and was unable to produce a spark. After a cooling off period of an hour it was able to function again.
After 15 minutes of continuous current the good coil had reduced it its internal insulation to 60% and the bad
coil, with the insulation that was poor to start with, had reduced to 5%. I need to be able to test a range of
defective coils to determine the minimum acceptable insulation when cold to feel confident to use it.
So it looks as though as little as 10 mins of continuous current (approximately equivalent to 20 minutes

running) is sufficient to reveal the insulation properties of an ignition coil. It very often will not be convenient
to hitch up a coil into 12v supply and test it after 10 minutes, an immediate test is what is needed. I have a new
coil that has a cold insulation resistance of 40 gigohms and some others between 10 and 5 gigohms, I would not
want to rely on a coil of less than 5 gigohms given that this figure will deteriorate as it heats up and will be
hampered further by the heat from the engine. It may be that I could get away with a lower cold insulation
resistance, but I think I would like as big a margin of safety as possible to avoid this sort of failure.
Testing the magnetism of ignition coil

This is not something that normally springs to mind when thinking of automotive fault finding, but there is an
easy to use device that can help test the behaviour of electro-magnetic components.
This device detects magnetism whether it comes from a permanent magnet or as the result of a DC current
flowing through a coil. It is battery powered and turned on by holding down the red “MEAS” button. A slight
misnomer because it doesn’t measure magnetism but merely detects it, when detected the white probe
unambiguously glows blue and emits a continuous tone.
Held close to the case of an ignition coil, with the contact breaker closed, it will detect magnetism from the
field winding. With the engine turning over the magnetic field will be intermittent as the contact breaker open
and closes, causes the blue light to flicker and accompanied by a buzz rather than a tone. With the engine
turning over then a continuous light and tone would indicate that the contact breaker has stuck closed or there is
failure in the way it has been assembled or some other short circuit in the distributor circuit.
If there was no indication of magnetism, then use a lead or screwdriver to short circuit the CB side of the coil to
earth. There should then be an indication of continuous magnetism indicating an open circuit in the distributor
or its wiring. If there is still no indication, apply a voltmeter or test bulb between earth and the SW supply to
the coil. The detector can be bought for about £10 and is a useful tool to have available in the early stages of a
diagnosis without having to access any wires or apply a multimeter.
Testing the capacitor

The problem with capacitors is that they rarely fail totally. Given that an insulator is only an insulator up to a
certain voltage, it makes sense to do tests at the sort of voltage they will be working at. Using a multimeter on a
high resistance range is not a reliable indicator as this provides only a few volts. The use of a Megger on the
250 or 500 volt range is required.
This can be used in two ways. It can be used to charge up the capacitor that is then disconnected being careful
not to receive an electric shock by touching the leads. After say 10 seconds the capacitor’s lead is carefully
contacted onto its case, whereupon a spark should be seen and heard. No spark means the charge has dwindled
away due to poor insulation within the capacitor and should be discarded.
I find it easier and safer to observe the readings on the Megger. I much prefer to observe the behaviour a needle
on an analogue instrument than the ever changing display on a digital instrument. When the Megger is switched
on the needle moves rapidly to the right as the capacitor charges and as it becomes fully charged the needle falls
back to the left and points very closely to ∞ infinity. Releasing the switch results in a needle kick as the
capacitor discharges.
It is quite possible of course to evaluate the performance of the capacitor by watching a digital display. But
precise readings are not required and the behaviour of the needle gives a very obvious and immediate indicator
of the state of the capacitor.
Measurement of low resistances

Even a very basic multimeter can be of immense value. I am aware that many people don’t feel comfortable
trying to measure ohms using the meter’s resistance range. This is particularly so when measuring very low
resistance as sometimes the resistance of the test leads and their prods can add an ohm or two to what is being
measured. Provided that this additional resistance is constant it can be zeroed out by the ohms adjuster on an
analogue meter. This cannot be done with most digital meters, so a note has to be made of the resistance
reading of the prods held together and then this has to be deducted from the reading obtained with the
component under test. After doing this it is always worth checking that prods together reading still is of the
original value. The same check should be made with an analogue meter to confirm the prods together reading
does in fact line up with zero.
Although resistance readings can be most helpful a lot can be gauged about the health of the system by
measuring voltages. Indeed, measuring the voltage in key places provides an accurate way of calculating the
resistance.
Consider this ballast resistor from the filter box.
The keen observer will have spotted that in this example the smaller winding has broken. It appears to have
melted; in fact, much of the smaller winding looks rather saggy. This could have come about if the connector to
the coil had been disconnected and allowed to contact an earth point when the ignition was left on. Such an
incident would have caused the smaller winding to try to dissipate nearly 70 watts and it should be remembered
that the ignition circuit is unfused. Such a break is not easy to see when it is installed in the filter box.
Static testing of the coil
When testing an ignition coil be mindful of its purpose, even the battery in a multimeter can give you a tingle
when testing the coil! It will be necessary to unscrew all three screened connectors to the access the coil
terminals.
Primary winding test

Using a multimeter set on the low ohms range put one prod on the coil terminal CB and put the other prod on
SW. The reading should be 2.8 ohms. Having done that put the test pods together and check that it does still
‘zero’. If it doesn’t check, clean and tighten the prod plugs, measuring low resistance is often a pain were an
ohm or two can just creep into the readings.
Secondary winding test

Using a multimeter set on the kilohms range put one prod on the coil terminal CB and put the other prod on
central HT terminal. The reading should be 10-14 kilohms
Replacing the resistor

Quite regularly complete filter units turn up for sale. Sometime these are new items more often than not they
are used ones. It is important to look inside the box to judge its general condition. I’ve not seen the resistors
themselves for sale and given that the resistor wire is wound on a former of asbestos, supported by another
asbestos block, there may be safety issues with MOD releasing these resistors as single items.
The most likely part of the resistor to fail is the thinner shorter coil. It is hard enough to catch sight of any of
this winding let alone assess whether it is broken. A quick test with a pocket multimeter is essential.
Unfortunately, there is no direct civilian replacement for the original resistor. When seeking a replacement, the
complete resistor it is easy to focus the search on a 4.4 ohm replacement. But the tests earlier showed that the
warmed up resistance of the complete resistor is in the order of 5.8 ohms.
So a substitute would be “Wirewound Resistor Aluminium Clad 50w 5R6”, these can be obtained for a couple
of pounds. In order to dissipate heat, the resistor is designed to be bolted directly onto a large metal surface and
the filter box is ideal for this. In order to maximise the heat transfer it is necessary to scrape away the black
paint and make smooth the bare metal that is to contact the resistor. It will not be microscopically smooth and a
modest smear of white heat sink compound should be wiped on the underside of the resistor to ensure good
thermal contact.
Use stout wire to connect to the resistor’s lugs, bend the wire over to make it mechanically secure before
soldering. Normal tin-lead solders have a melting point in the order of 183 ° C and are relatively soft. Such
joints cannot be relied upon to support the wire alone. This is important as a loose wire could have serious
consequences as the ignition supply is not fused. Although the wires of the original resistor are soldered they
are secured with a silver solder which will have a melting point in the region of 700° C.
Above is a trap for the unwary, once the base plate of this filter unit was removed it revealed a modification
incorporating a 1.85 ohm resistor. I imagine that the original resistor failed and being unable to source a
replacement, the previous owner has sourced the only ballast resistor he could find from the civilian market.
This would mean the coil carrying about twice the intended current. This is not an advantage as the coil would
not become magnetised any more so there will be no additional HT output. The only increase will be a
damaging amount of heat in the coil and the risk that it may explode.
Using unscreened components with a 12-volt coil

Discarding the screened plugs and their leads allows the use of standard non-screened plugs and conventional
plug leads. This reduces running costs and reduces the capacitive effect of the screened cables, which will
increase the HT output. Although retaining the screened cables from the distributor to coil and the LT cables to
the coil allows the existing connectors to be used. If the coil fails and a replacement cannot be sourced, then the
only option is to fit a standard 12-volt coil and use conventional unscreened wiring.
This certainly does work but is not ideal as it will give a reduced voltage to the new coil, not welcome when
cold starting.
In the original system the filter box has a resistance 4.4 ohms and the 10-volt coil 2.8 ohms. This gives a total
resistance of 7.2 ohms connected to a 24v supply this will draw 3.3 amps. The average 12v coil is 3.2 ohms so
in series with 4.4 ohms gives 7.6 ohms applied to 24 volts it will draw 3.15 amps. Drawing 3.15 volts through
4.4 ohms gives a voltage drop of 13.86 volts. So connected to a 24-volt supply the 12-volt coil will only receive
10.14 volts.
I decided to verify this with a test circuit and found when cold (15°C) only 9.82 volts was available across a 12-
volt coil with a resistance of 3.2 ohms although after a couple of minutes this did rise to 10.20 volts.
Starting up the engine on a cold winter’s morning means that the chemical reactions in the battery that generate
electricity are slower. This is likely to be lower when cranking the engine over and the battery volts drop below
24 volts. Of course a properly running system that is charging the batteries should be producing 28.5 volts. So I
applied this voltage to my test rig and found 11.65 volts was available after a few minutes.
So it seems that a 12-volt coil can be used as a substitute although there may be problems when cold starting
particularly at low temperatures.
Alternative ways of powering a 12-volt coil

With those cold start problems in mind or faced with the failure of the filter box ballast resistor, people have
sought to utilise solid state regulators to provide an assured 12-volt supply. The problem here is that ready-
made modules can be expensive and for reliability they should be mounted away from the heat produced by the
engine.
The other source of a 12-volt supply is to tap into the junction between the two batteries in series that provide
the 24-volt supply for the vehicle. This certainly works but the problem is that there will be a drain of about 3
amps on the ‘lower’ battery. It will not fully charge as the batteries are in series and one battery cannot carry a
different charging current than the other. So with time the ‘lower’ battery will deteriorate and need replacement.
The problem then is the charging demands of the older ‘higher’ battery will not match that of the new ‘lower’
battery. In a 24-volt system it is always best to fit a pair of identical batteries of the same age and type at the
same time and not syphon off power from one battery.
The provision of 12-volts by either of those methods misses the point about the use of 10 or 12 volts in a 24-
volt system. The purpose of a ballast resistor was not a cheap means of reducing the voltage, it was to add
resistance to the circuit to reduce the time constant. As shown in an earlier diagram a ballasted ignition circuit
will perform better at high revs by allowing the magnetic field in the coil to build up quicker than in a non-
ballasted circuit. So a better spark can be obtained with a ballasted system, it seems a disadvantage to forgo this
benefit.
Do not use a car 12-volt ballasted coil as a replacement for the screened 10-volt coil. In car ballasted systems,
which are inevitably 12-volt, the ballast resistor is usually 1.85 ohms and the matching coil is of a similar low
resistance.
Other Lucas coils

As this article contains a lot of information that is not exclusive to screened systems I thought it would be
helpful to compare the properties of Lucas coils that might be found in older vehicles. The information was
compiled principally from Lucas technical books, RAF Vocabulary 16E (MT Electrical Stores) 1953 and
VAOS Section LV6/MT8 (MT Ignition) 1951 and 1963. Unfortunately details of precise part numbers are
limited. Often they are not specified or if they are, there is no indication whether it is for the positive or
negative version of the coil so I had to omit those results.
The original Lucas data specified a spark gap that could sustain a regular and consistent spark for particular
coils. The greatest gap that a spark can jump is by a pulsed voltage between sharp electrodes and this was
provided by a distributor driven by a motor that could be set to run at low and high speeds. It was discovered in
1927 that the introduction of a third electrode insulated from the circuit but in close proximity to the electrode
supplied from the coil greatly helps in producing consistent sparks that were required at low and high speeds.
This comes about by a tiny discharge taking place between the two electrodes close to each other, despite the
fact that the auxiliary electrode is insulated from the rest of the circuit. This is similar to the gap between the
rotor arm and the electrodes in the distributor cap, where a tiny spark jumps the gap irrespective of whether a
sparking plug is connected.
To accurately measure a gap that gives a consistent spark is far easier than attempting to measure a high voltage
that may be fluctuating. I have found that the measured voltage very much depends on the load or gap that it is
working into. As a bench mark the Lucas data reveals that 8,000 volts is needed to jump a gap of 4.75mm in the
test rig above. Although the relationship is not absolutely linear, I have scaled the gap measurements to give an
equivalent voltage output expected from each coil. Although it gives a rather optimistic view of a coil’s output,
I think it is helpful to produce comparative voltages and I have tabulated the coils according to this output.
Note that there is a little spread in the values of the primary coil resistance. This is not just due to
manufacturing tolerances, but there may be several different versions of part numbers under the umbrella of the
main coil type and of course the temperature of the coil will affect the resistance.
Coil Gap mm HT Voltage LT Voltage Earth Ohms Primary Ballast Resistor Part Number
CQ6 7.5 12.5 kV 6.5 Positive 2.75-3.15
SQ6 7.5 12.5 kV 6.5 Positive 1.5-1.7 45041A 45057A
4Q6 8 13.5 kV 6.5 Positive 1.7-1.9
MA6 8 13.5 kV 6.5 Positive 1.8-2.4
QI12 8 13.5 kV 12.5 Positive 5.5-6.0
QQ12 8 13.5 kV 12.5 Positive 0.9-1.1 1.4-1.7 ohms
SQ6 8.5 14.3 kV 6.5 Positive 1.2-1.4 45057B onwards
6Q6 9 15 kV 6.5 Positive 1.4-1.55 1818
QL6 9 15 kV 6.5 Positive 1.32-1.42
Q12 9 15 kV 12.5 Positive 4.3-4.5 1488 2282
QV12 9 15 kV 12.5 Negative 4.4-4.65
QL12 9 15 kV 12.5 Positive 3.7-4.3
R12 9 15 kV 12.5 Positive 4.0-4.4
MA12 9 15 kV 12.5 Positive 3.0-3.4
BD6 10 16 kV 6.5 Positive 0.49-0.57 0.6-0.7 ohms
BRW12 10 16 kV 12.5 Negative 3.4-3.8
BRS12 10 16 kV 12.5 Negative 3.2-3.6 1987 408131
LA12 10 16 kV 12.5 Positive 3.0-3.4 45053B
LB12 10 16 kV 12.5 Positive 3.8-4.2
7C12 10 16 kV 12.5 Positive 3.8-4.2
BA7 10 16 kV 12.5 Positive 1.4-1.54 1.3- 1.4 ohms
BW12 11 18.5 kV 4.5 Negative 0.75-0.85
AQ6 11 18.5 kV 6.5 Positive 1.1-1.25
B6 11 18.5 kV 6.5 Negative 1.4-1.6
BR6 11 18.5 kV 6.5 Positive 1.15-1.3 1679
R6 11 18.5 kV 6.5 Positive 1.25-1.4
HS6 11 18.5 kV 6.5 Positive 1.15-1.3
PA6 11 18.5 kV 6.5 Positive 1.0-1.1
LA6 11 18.5 kV 6.5 Positive 1.0-1.1
B12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Positive 4.0-4.4 1257 3421
B12/1 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Positive 3.4-3.8
BR12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Positive 3.4-3.8 1140
BI12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Positive 3.85-4.1
BRP12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Negative 3.2-3.6
HS12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Positive 4.0-4.4 45038A, B
HS12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Positive 3.4-3.8 45038D onwards
BSW12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Negative 3.1-3.4
PA12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Positive 3.0-3.4
HA12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Positive 3.0-3.5 45104 45169 45067 45075
HA12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Negative 3.0-3.4 45066 45068 45097 45099
LH12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Positive 3.4-3.6
4C12 11 18.5 kV 12.5 Negative 3.1-3.4
BRS10 12 20 kV 10.5 Negative 2.65-3.0 4.4 ohms 24v supply 3345
BRW10 12 20 kV 10.5 Negative 2.65-3.0 4.4 ohms 24v supply
5C10 12 20 kV 10.5 Negative 2.65-3.0 4.4 ohms 24v supply 45120 45202 425274
5C10 12 20 kV 10.5 Positive 2.65-3.0 4.4 ohms 24v supply
BRV12 12 20 kV 12.5 Negative 3.15-3.45
HV12 12 20 kV 12.5 Positive 3.5-3.8 45046B
3C12 12 20 kV 12.5 Positive 3.2-3.6
3C12 12 20 kV 12.5 Negative 3.2-3.6 45117D
HE6 13 22 kV 6.5 Positive 0.9-1.1
SA6 13 22 kV 6.5 Positive 0.9-1.1 45065A, B & D
SA12 13 22 kV 12.5 Positive 2.36-2.65 45058A, B & D
HE12 13 22 kV 12.5 Positive 3.1-3.5
SA6 14 23.5 kV 6.5 Positive 0.8-1.0 45065E onwards
SH6 14 23.5 kV 6.5 Positive 0.8-1.0
SA12 14 23.5 kV 12.5 Positive 2.6-2.9 45085E onwards
SH12 14 23.5 kV 12.5 Positive 2.6-2.9
BA12 16 27 kV 12.5 Positive 1.3-1.5 0.9-1.1 ohms
BA12 16 27 kV 12.5 Negative 1.3-1.5 0.9-1.1 ohms
Fallacies
It is important that the coil case is well earthed - This is incorrect it has no bearing on the functionality of the
coil in an ER (Earth Return) system.
Even without the capacitor, the system will function just as well but with increased wear at the points – Without
the capacitor the HT output will be reduced due to a less abrupt collapse of the magnetic field in the coil.
A good spark as the points open is a sign of a good HT output – Incorrect, see above.
A neon tester in line with the sparking plug that flashes shows there is sparking at the plug – Not necessarily, it
shows there is HT reaching the plug, but there may be a fault with the plug like being cracked or sooted up.
A spark on a sparking plug removed from the engine shows that the ignition system is working – Not
necessarily, it may not be an adequate spark that can be reproduced when the engine is under compression.
You can use a positive earth coil in a negative earth vehicle provided you swap the SW and CB connections –
Yes you can, this will ensure that you have a negative spark at the plugs. But the HT will be about 600 volts
less.
In such an arrangement it will automatically adjust itself. The coil will work efficiently and put out the same
voltage either way, the primary winding can sense this and automatically adjusts its behaviour – Not true, it
cannot do this unless the primary winding was rewound! This is why coils are designed specifically for positive
or negative earths!
And Finally - Diagnostic Axioms
There is no rule that says there will only be one fault.
One fault may not be sufficient to cause failure, but several lesser faults can combine to cause failure.
No treatment without a diagnosis! Be logical, try to start from a point where you can measure a voltage and
follow it through the system.
Try to avoid the haphazard removal of components, it is wasteful and you may well remove working
components you can never trust again.
When replacing components try to limit what you change, then test the system. That way you will learn where
the problem was, which may be useful in the future. If you make too many changes you may make matters
worse, then you don’t know what you have done wrong and whether you have created more problems.
Try not to assume anything is working unless you can verify it by measurement.
If you make no progress, give up. Ask someone or come back to it another day more relaxed and when you had
some time to think the problem through.
Be wary of official diagrams.
Simplified Glossary
Alternating Current (AC) – an electric current that flows in one direction to a maximum, falls to zero &
reverses to a maximum with the cycle repeating continuously.
Direct Current (DC) – an electric current that flows in one direction, it can be continuous, intermittent or
variable.
Back EMF – Back Electro Motive Force is the voltage produced in a coil of the opposite polarity to the
energising voltage.
Ballast Resistor - a special resistor to help offset voltage fluctuations.
Capacitance – the property of a circuit to hold an electric charge.
Capacitor – a device to store an electric charge comprising two conductive surfaces separated by a thin
insulating material. It can be used to block DC or pass AC.
Choke - a coil used to hinder the flow of AC or pulsating DC.
Condenser – the old name for capacitor, still commonly used in automotive-speak.
Contact Breaker – a mechanical switch in the distributor for earthing the ignition coil.
Dielectric – an insulator separating the plates of a capacitor.
FFR – Fitted For Radio a more modern installation with a modular concept allowing installations to be
transferred between different vehicle types with a minimum of changes.
FFW – Fitted For Wireless an older type of set up where equipment was fashioned into a vehicle sometimes in
a unique way.
henry – Unit of inductance (1 millihenry = 0.001 henry, 1 microhenry = 0.001 millihenry)
High Tension (HT) - the high voltage output from the coil. Measured in kilovolts.
Impedance – the opposition to the flow of AC or DC pulses that combines the effects of resistance and
reactance (calculated as the vector sum of resistance and reactance).
Inductance – Inductance is the property of a circuit that tends to oppose a change in flow of a current
associated with a magnetic field.
kilovolt (kV) – 1,000 volts
Low Tension (LT) - the input voltage to the primary winding of the coil.
Megger – once a brand name, which has become to mean a high voltage instrument to measure high resistances
or to test insulation.
mfd – microfarad, a unit of capacitance. One millionth of a farad.
Multimeter – combined meter that can be switched to measure, voltage, current and resistance. Can be:
Analogue – this instrument has a moving coil on a pointer needle that moves over a calibrated scale.
Digital – this instrument has a LCD or LED display giving a numerical display of value.
NSN – NATO Stock Number.
ohm (Ω) – the unit of resistance in a circuit where a voltage of one volt allows the current of one amp to flow.
kilohms (KΩ) – 1,000 ohms
megohms (MΩ) – 1,000,000 ohms
gigohms (GΩ) – 1,000 megohms
ohmmeter – generally the resistance measuring range of a multimeter.
pF – picofarad, a unit of capacitance. A millionth of a microfarad.
Points – the contacting points of the contact breaker.
Reactance – the opposition to flow of AC or DC pulses.
Resistance – the opposition to the flow of a DC voltage.
Resistor – a component to reduce the flow of a DC current.
RF – Radio Frequency.
RFI – Radio Frequency Interference this can be conducted through a wire or radiated through air.
Time Constant (of a coil) – the time in seconds derived from the inductance (in henries) divided by the total
resistance (in ohms).
VAOS – Vocabulary of Army Ordnance Stores.
Acknowledgements
Many thanks to the REME Museum, Richard Farrant, Darren Parsons, Philip Bashall, Paul Hocking, Cliff Rice
and to the many people who have allowed me to record details and take measurements on their various ignition
components.
Copyright Clive Elliott 2011-2016

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BRIGHT SPARKS FOR LAND ROVERS!

Why 24-volts Rovers?

Kettering’s 1908 patent drawing courtesy of AC-Delco.

Downside of a 24-volt system

Capacitor construction (paper & foil)

Capacitor construction (metalized paper)

Capacitors and heat

The new filtering arrangement is represented below.

Ashcroft 7 amp 21 microhenries 70BG

DCC Type 816 7 amp

Other filter units

This filter unit is not a CH26 but a CH33.

History of the ballast resistor

Ballast resistor in the filter unit

Effect of the chokes

Ignition Coil 3C12

Ignition Coil 5C10

45202A is most curious:

Rover 6, 7, 8, 9 & Heavy Utility

FV18041A Truck, GS, ¾ Ton, Cargo, 12v DC Land Rover 7

Early screened coils

Ignition coil BRS12

Measuring electrical properties of ignition coils

Electrical properties of ignition coils

Coil Lucas Working Primary Secondary Primary Secondary Common

Wear and tear

A - Smear a drop of clean engine oil on the cam.

Later caps were black or sometimes blue.

40753A (sometimes incorrectly quoted as 407539)

41880 41880A 41880B 41880C 41880D

1-25 Automotive & high performance

Drawbacks of abrasive plug cleaning

Sparking plug insulation

Sparking plug resistance

Capacitance of sparking plugs & screened cables

Sparking plug gap

How high a voltage of HT is needed?

‘Flashtest’ courtesy of Gunsons

Testing the ignition coil

Ignition coil testing machine

Loading the coil output

Sparking plug voltage

Researching the effects of temperature & pressure

Effect of vapour composition

Importance of the capacitor

Fault finding equipment - Multimeters

Bulb test prod

Fault finding equipment – Connecting cables

Fault finding preliminaries

1. Fuel is reaching the carburettor.

Problems when looking for a spark

Testing insulation - looking for leakage

Testing the plug lead insulation

Testing the distributor cap insulation

Testing the rotor arm insulation

100v > 20 gigohms

Testing the ignition coil insulation

100v > 50 gigohms

So it looks as though as little as 10 mins of continuous current (approximately equivalent to 20 minutes

Testing the magnetism of ignition coil

Testing the capacitor

Measurement of low resistances

Consider this ballast resistor from the filter box.

Primary winding test