AMM 1201 Module

SHANTO-MARIAM UNIVERSITY OF CREATIVE
TECHNOLOGY
DEPT. OF FASHION DESIGN &TECHNOLOGY
Module Title:
INTRODUCTION TO FASHION & APPAREL INDUSTRIES

Module Code:
AMM 1201
(Trimester Version)
2nd SEMESTER
LECTURES
Updated on 20/02/2022
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Module : BA. (Hons) Fashion Design & Technology
Module Title: Introduction to Fashion & Apparel Industries
Module Code: AMM1201
Year of study: 1st Year, 2nd semester,
Contact Hours : 1.5hrs/Week, Lecture Hrs 18.0+ Midterm Exam 1.5 Hrs
+Final Exam 2.0 Hrs+ Self-study 8.5 Hours = Total 30 Hrs
Assessment Method: Continuous Assessment
Credits : 2.0
Aims:
This course introduces the introduction to Fashion & Apparel Industries are being run in Bangladesh, their
present status, problems and prospects and future challenges to be overcome successfully
Objectives:
Particularly the goals of the module are as follows:
# To introduce the students with Fashion and Apparel Industries, their present and future status
# To initiate the students with the future challenges of the readymade garment & Fashion sector of
Bangladesh.
# To enlarge the knowledge about buyers, brands and stakeholders of the readymade garment sector &
Fashion, are being worked globally with Bangladeshi Fashion and Apparel Industries.
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Class Contact & Teaching Pattern:
Lecture : 18.0Hrs.
Learning Outcomes
To be able to identify fashion, fashion industries, apparel, apparel industries, terms related to fashion and
apparels.
References:
1. Garment Technology for Fashion Designers by Gerry Cooklin

2. Introduction to Garment Technology I & II by Engr. AJSM Khaled
Module Specifications
➢ Introduction to Fashion and Apparel industries
➢ History of fashion and apparel Industries
➢ Impact of fashion and apparel industries to the economy of Bangladesh
➢ Present and future challenges of the RMG sector of Bangladesh
➢ Brands/Buyers working with Bangladeshi fashion & apparel industries
➢ Awards and achievements of Bangladeshi Fashion and apparels industries
➢ Management Hierarchy of an Apparel industry
➢ Functions of different departments
➢ Duties and responsibilities of a Merchandiser
➢ Duties and responsibilities of a Fashion Designer
➢ Buyers enquiry
➢ Garments manufacturing flowchart
Required Resources:
Staff should have
• Accurate demonstration samples

• Adequate domestic sewing machines
• Cutting machine, marker making
• Finishing machines
Students must have: Scissors, measuring tape, ruler, fabric, matching sewing thread, pins, spool, needle,
fusing, tracing wheel, carbon paper.
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Midterm Assessment: 40
Attendance : 05
Class test : 05
Assignment : 10
Midterm exam: 20
Final Examination: 60
Attendance : 05
Class test : 05
Assignment : 10
Final exam : 40
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Lesson Plan
Week-01 History of Fashion and apparel industries, Bangladesh
Week-02 What is the direct Contribution of RMG sector of Bangladesh?
Week-03 Impact of fashion and apparel industries to the economy of

Bangladesh
Week-04 Present and future challenges of the RMG sector of Bangladesh
Week-05 Brands/Buyers working with Bangladeshi fashion & apparel industries
Week-06 Awards and achievements of Bangladeshi Fashion and apparels industries
MIDTERM EXAMINATION
Week-07 Management Hierarchy of an Apparel industry
Week-8 Functions of different departments and different people
Week 9 Duties and responsibilities of a Merchandiser
Week10 Duties and responsibilities of a Fashion Designer
Week 11 Garments buyers’ inquiry
Week 12 Garments manufacturing flowchart

Continuous Assessment Sheet
FINAL EXAMINATION
Assessment Midterm
Final
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Description 20%
Exam
Weeks
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Class test
5% 10%
40%
Assignment Written
Exam
10%
Class test
5%
Assignment
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Lecture 1
History of Fashion and apparel industries, Bangladesh
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Lecture 1
History of Fashion and apparel industries, Bangladesh
After the independence in 1971, Bangladesh was one of the poorest countries in the world. No
major industries were developed in Bangladesh, when it was known as East Pakistan, due to
discriminatory attitude and policies of the government of the then West Pakistan. So, rebuilding
the war-ravaged country with limited resources appeared to be the biggest challenge for us.
Though Bangladesh was an agricultural dominant county, now the readymade garments industry
is acting as the backbone of the country’s economy and it is acting as the vehicle for the
development of our country. As it has been fetching billions of dollars and has arranged jobs for
around 4 million people, we are proud of it.
Nowadays, the “Made in Bangladesh” tag has a significant glory of Bangladesh and for its people
as well. Bangladesh is the name of a prestigious brand country around the world, which was once
termed by a simple expression “bottomless basket!”, Bangladesh has become the “basket full of
wonders!” Bangladesh is one of the 10 emerging countries having more than 6 % annual GDP
growth in the world and has brought about remarkable social and human development.
It is surprising – how the economy of Bangladesh continues to grow at a steady rate of knots,
sometimes even when rowing against the tide. Now we imagine Bangladesh will get the middle-
income country status by 2021. We firmly believe that our dream will come true within the
specified time and the RMG industry will certainly play a vital role in materializing the dream.
The industry that has been making a vital contribution to rebuilding the country and its economy
is none other than the readymade garment (RMG) industry which is now the single biggest export
earner for Bangladesh. The sector accounts for 81% of the total export earnings of the country.
Reaz Garments, the pioneer, was established in 1960 as a small tailoring outfit, named Reaz
Store in DHAKA. It served only domestic markets for about 15 years. In 1973 it changed its
name to M/s Reaz Garments Ltd. and expanded its operations into export market by selling
10,000 pieces of men's shirts worth French Franc 13 million to a Paris-based firm in 1966. It
was the first direct exporter of garments from Bangladesh (then East Pakistan). Desh
Garments Ltd, the first non-equity joint-venture in the garment industry was established in
1979. Desh garment had technical and marketing collaboration with Daewoo Corporation of
South Korea. It was also the first hundred per cent export-oriented company. It had about
120 operators including 3 women trained in South Korea, and with these trained workers it
started its production in early 1980. Another South Korean Firm, Young ones Corporation
formed the first equity joint-venture garment factory with a Bangladeshi firm, Trexim Ltd.
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in 1980. Bangladeshi partners contributed 51% of the equity of the new firm, named Young
ones Bangladesh. It exported its first consignment of padded and non-padded jackets to
Sweden in December 1980.
When our lone export earner – the jute industry – started losing its golden days, it is the RMG
sector that replaced it, and then, to overtake it.
The apparel industry of Bangladesh started its successful journey in the 1980s and has come
to the position it is in today. The late Nurul Quader Khan was the pioneer of the readymade
garment industry in Bangladesh. He had a vision of how to transform the country. In 1978,
he sent 130 trainees to South Korea where they learned how to produce readymade
garments.
With those trainees, he set up the first factory – Desh Garments – to produce garments for
export. At the same time, the late Akhter Mohammad Musa of Bond Garments, the late
Mohammad Reazuddin of Reaz Garments, Md Humayun of Paris Garments, Engineer
Mohammad Fazlul Azim of Azim Group, Major (Retd) Abdul Mannan of Sunman Group,
M Shamsur Rahman of Stylecraft Limited, the first President of BGMEA, AM Subid Ali of
Aristocrat Limited also came forward and established some of the first garment factories in
Bangladesh.
Following their footsteps, other prudent and hardworking entrepreneurs started RMG factories in
the country. Since then, the Bangladeshi garment industry did not need to look behind. Despite
many difficulties faced by the sector over the past years, it has carved a niche in the world market
and kept continuing to show robust performance.
Until the end of 1982, there were only 47 garment manufacturing units. The breakthrough
occurred in 1984-85 when the number of garment factories increased to 587. The number of
RMG factories shot up to around 2,900 in 1999 during the regime of Sheikh Hasina &
Bangladesh Awamileague. Bangladesh is now one of the largest apparel exporters of the
world, the sixth largest supplier in the US market and the fifth largest supplier of T-shirts in
the EU market & second in knit garments production (6% of world production). The
industry has grown during the 1990s roughly at the rate of 22%.
Since the early days, different sources of impetus have contributed to the development and
maturity of the industry at various stages. We learned about child-labour in 1994, and
successfully made the industry free from child labour in 1995.
The MFA-quota was a blessing to our industry to take root, gradually develop and mature. While
the quota was approaching to an end in 2004, it was predicted by many that the phase-out would
incur a massive upset in our export.
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However, the post-MFA era is another story of success. Proving all the predictions wrong, we
conquered the post-MFA challenges. Now the apparel industry is Bangladesh’s biggest export
earner with a value of over $28.20bn of exports in the last financial year (from July 2016 to June
2017).
Despite the epic growth of our RMG industry and its bright prospects, challenges are still there.
One of the biggest challenges currently faced by our RMG industry is to ensure workplace safety
and better working conditions for the millions of garment workers.
Two major accidents, the Tazreen fire, and the Rana Plaza collapse have brought the issue
of workplace safety to the fore and led all stakeholders to act accordingly. Following the
unfortunate incidents, various platforms such as the Bangladesh Accord on Fire and
Building Safety, the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety and National Plan of Action
have been formed to improve building and fire safety of Bangladesh’s garment industry.
All members of the BGMEA and BKMEA are working all-out to carry out the corrective action
plans suggested by the Accord, Alliance and National Plan of Action after inspections, even
investing a huge amount of money.
Moreover, the factories which were set up in an unplanned way and housed in risky buildings have
started relocating to safer buildings. Besides, a project has been taken to set up a well-planned
garment industrial park beside the Dhaka-Chittagong Highway where the structurally weak
garment factories will be able to relocate.
However, ensuring workplace safety in all garment factories is a gigantic task and will take time
to accomplish. But we believe the government of Bangladesh, BGMEA, and BKMEA, with the
support of global brands and international development partners, will be able to ensure the safety
of the RMG industry and maintain the momentum of socio-economic development in the country.
With challenges on one side, a more glittering future is waiting for the ready-made garment
industry of Bangladesh on the other side; at least facts and figures have made us believe so. A
recent study jointly conducted by the United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) and the
University of Rhode Island (URI) has made us more optimistic about the potential of our RMG
industry.
According to the study, the US-based fashion companies are expected to boost their sourcing from
Bangladesh in the next two years. McKinsey, a global management consulting firm, described
Bangladesh as the next hot spot in apparel sourcing. The renowned firm forecasts export-value
growth of 7-9% annually and our apparel export will double by 2015 and nearly triple by 2020 if
we can successfully overcome a few challenges including developing infrastructure and skilled
workforce.
It is the responsibility of all of us to protect the interest of this industry which has given our
economy a strong footing, created jobs for millions of people, especially for women, lifted them
from the abyss of chronic poverty and given them a dignified life. Now what we need to do is deal
with all the challenges facing our garment industry, paving the way for its further development.
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The main highways namely Dhaka-Chittagong, Dhaka-Mymensingh, Dhaka-Tangail through
which our apparel products and the raw materials for apparel and textile are transported from
factories to port, are being widened (from two lanes to four lanes) and drive-worthy for tapping
our export potential. This work needs to be completed as urgently, preferably by December 2014.
The connection of gas to the factories and uninterrupted power supply are prerequisites for the
steady growth of the industry. So, the government should consider giving gas and electricity
connections to RMG and textile units as the top priority. Producing the required number of skilled
workers is another challenge and overcoming it will determine whether the country will be able to
sustain the boom that is waiting to happen.
Although BGMEA along with the government and other international organizations have taken
the initiatives of developing skills of workers, yet more initiatives as such are required to meet the
demand of the industry and enhance the productivity of the industry. The budget allocation of the
government for skill development also needs to be increased.
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT) is offering graduate and post-graduate
degrees to students on fashion design, knitwear technology and apparel merchandising related
subjects. Nonetheless, to meet the current shortfall of competent professionals in the mid-level of
our garment factories, fashion, textile and industrial merchandising related departments need to be
established at all of our major public and private universities.
Bangladesh mainly produces five products – T-shirts, sweaters, trousers, men’s and women’s
shirts. Moreover, we are dependent mainly on two markets namely the EU and North America (the
US and Canada). Though we reduced our dependency on these two markets from 93% to 85% in
last five years (From fiscal 2009-10 to 2013-14), we need to diversify the destinations of our
apparel export and concentrate on high-end products like suits, lingerie, etc. more for the sustained
growth of our apparel industry.
Inadequate infrastructure, bureaucratic inefficiency, and corruption are still the major problematic
factors in industrialization and for the growth of an industry. These are also increasing
entrepreneurs’ cost of doing business. We are also losing price and delivery competitiveness to
our business competitor. The last but not the least, political stability of the country is the key to
the steady growth of the industry.
Starting from scratch, Bangladesh has come a long way and is now one of 10 new emerging
countries in the world. The macroeconomic stability, 6% annual average GDP growth, robust
performance of remittance and export, strong foreign currency reserve, and remarkable social and
human development over the past decade – all reflect our underlying strengths.
Given the dominance of the RMG industry in the overall economy of Bangladesh, we have to
protect this sector. Rather than basking in the glory we should work hand in hand to retain
sustainable growth and competitive edge.
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Major Apparel Items
Major Apparel Items Exported from Bangladesh, in Million USD
YEAR SHIRTS TROUSERS JACKETS T-SHIRT SWEATER
2000-2001 1073.59 656.33 573.74 597.42 476.87
2002-2003 1019.87 643.66 464.51 642.62 578.37
2004-2005 1053.34 1667.72 430.28 1349.71 893.12
2006-2007 943.44 2201.32 1005.06 2208.9 1248.09
2008-2009 1000.16 3007.29 1299.74 3065.86 1858.62
2010-2011 1566.42 4164.16 1887.50 4696.57 2488.19
2011-2012 1733.54 4686.39 2231.16 4713.11 2340.34
2012-2013 1972.89 5185.48 2634.28 5143.22 2620.73
2013-2014 2173.73 5690.78 2973.16 5863.81 2932.94
2014-2015 2271.43 5697.83 3183.17 6064.13 2829.16
Top 10 knitwear Exports from Bangladesh, FY2014-2015

Million
HS Code Product Description USD
T-shirts, singlets & other vests, knitted or crocheted, of
61091000 5,766.50
cotton.
Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waist-coats & similar
61109000 1,311.62
articles, knitted or crocheted, of textile materials, n.e.s.
61102000 1,140.17
articles, knitted or crocheted, of cotton.
61051000 Men's or boys' shirts, knitted or crocheted, of cotton. 742.38
Women's or girls' trousers, bib & brace overalls, breeches
61046200 410.95
& shorts, knitted or crocheted, of cotton.
61103000 315.43
articles, knitted or crocheted, of man-made fibres.
T-shirts, singlet & other vests, knitted or crocheted, of
61099000 297.62
textile material other than cotton.
Men's or boys' trousers, bib & brace overalls, breeches &
61034200 256.72
shorts, knitted or crocheted, of cotton.
Women's or girls' briefs & panties, knitted or crocheted, of
61082100 244.49
cotton.
Men's or boys' underpants & briefs, knitted or crocheted,
61071100 214.23
of cotton.
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Top 10 Woven Garment Exports from Bangladesh, FY2014-2015
HS Code Product Description Million USD
62034200 4866.81
shorts, not knitted or crocheted, of cotton.
62046200 2065.87
& shorts, not knitted or crocheted, of cotton.
62052000 Men's or boys' shirts, not knitted or crocheted, of cotton. 1648.87
Men's or boys' shirts, not knitted or crocheted, of textile
62059000 materials, other than wool, fine animal hair, cotton & 568.30
man-made fibres.
& shorts, not knitted or crocheted, of textile materials,
62046900 398.60
other than wool, fine animal hair, cotton & synthetic
fibres.
Women's or girls' blouses, shirts & shirt-blouses, not
62063000 303.90
knitted or crocheted, of cotton.
62034900 shorts, not knitted or crocheted, of textile materials, other 293.45
than wool, fine animal hair, cotton & synthetic fibres.
Brassieres of textile materials, whether knitted or
62121000 235.83
crocheted.
62046300 199.91
& shorts, not knitted or crocheted, of synthetic fibres.
Men's or boys' anoraks (including ski-jackets), wind-
62019300 cheaters, wind-jackets & similar articles, not knitted or 194.94
crocheted, of man-made fibres.
Source: Export Promotion Bureau, Bangladesh
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MEMBERSHIP AND EMPLOYMENT
NUMBER OF GARMENT EMPLOYMENT IN MILLION
YEAR
FACTORIES WORKERS
1984-85 384 0.12
1985-86 594 0.20
1986-87 629 0.28
1987-88 685 0.31
1988-89 725 0.32
1989-90 759 0.34
1990-91 834 0.40
1991-92 1163 0.58
1992-93 1537 0.80
1993-94 1839 0.83
1994-95 2182 1.20
1995-96 2353 1.29
1996-97 2503 1.30
1997-98 2726 1.50
1998-99 2963 1.50
1999-00 3200 1.60
2000-01 3480 1.80
2001-02 3618 1.80
2002-03 3760 2.00
2003-04 3957 2.00
2004-05 4107 2.00
2005-06 4220 2.20
2006-07 4490 2.40
2007-08 4743 2.80
2008-09 4925 3.50
2009-10 5063 3.60
2010-11 5150 3.60
2011-12 5400 4.00
2012-13 5876 4.00
2013-14 4222 4.00
2014-15 4296 4.00
2015-16 4328 4.00
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2016-17 4482 4.00
2017-18 4560 4.00
Source: BGMEA
COMPARATIVE STATEMENT ON EXPORT OF RMG AND
TOTAL EXPORT OF BANGLADESH

TOTAL EXPORT OF
EXPORT OF RMG % OF RMG’S TO TOTAL
YEAR BANGLADESH
(IN MILLION US$) EXPORT
(IN MILLION US$)
1983-84 31.57 811.00 3.89
1984-85 116.2 934.43 12.44
1985-86 131.48 819.21 16.05
1986-87 298.67 1076.61 27.74
1987-88 433.92 1231.2 35.24
1988-89 471.09 1291.56 36.47
1989-90 624.16 1923.70 32.45
1990-91 866.82 1717.55 50.47
1991-92 1182.57 1993.90 59.31
1992-93 1445.02 2382.89 60.64
1993-94 1555.79 2533.90 61.40
1994-95 2228.35 3472.56 64.17
1995-96 2547.13 3882.42 65.61
1996-97 3001.25 4418.28 67.93
1997-98 3781.94 5161.20 73.28
1998-99 4019.98 5312.86 75.67
1999-00 4349.41 5752.20 75.61
2000-01 4859.83 6467.30 75.14
2001-02 4583.75 5986.09 76.57
2002-03 4912.09 6548.44 75.01
2003-04 5686.09 7602.99 74.79
2004-05 6417.67 8654.52 74.15
2005-06 7900.80 10526.16 75.06
2006-07 9211.23 12177.86 75.64
2007-08 10699.80 14110.80 75.83
2008-09 12347.77 15565.19 79.33
2009-10 12496.72 16204.65 77.12
2010-11 17914.46 22924.38 78.15
2011-12 19089.73 24301.90 78.55
2012-13 21515.73 27027.36 79.61
2013-14 24491.88 30186.62 81.13
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2014-15 25491.40 31208.94 81.68
2015-16 28094.16 34257.18 82.01
2016-17 28149.84 34655.90 81.23
2017-18 30614.76 36668.17 83.49
Data Source Export Promotion Bureau, Compiled by BGMEA
VALUE OF TOTAL APPAREL EXPORT
Fiscal Year Basis

TOTAL APPAREL EXPORT IN MN.US$
YEAR
WOVEN KNIT TOTAL
1992-1993 1240.48 204.54 1445.02
1993-1994 1291.65 264.14 1555.79
1994-1995 1835.09 393.26 2228.35
1995-1996 1948.81 598.32 2547.13
1996-1997 2237.95 763.30 3001.25
1997-1998 2844.43 937.51 3781.94
1998-1999 2984.96 1035.02 4019.98
1999-2000 3081.19 1268.22 4349.41
2000-2001 3364.32 1495.51 4859.83
2001-2002 3124.82 1458.93 4583.75
2002-2003 3258.27 1653.82 4912.09
2003-2004 3538.07 2148.02 5686.09
2004-2005 3598.20 2819.47 6417.67

2005-2006 4083.82 3816.98 7900.80
2006-2007 4657.63 4553.60 9211.23
2007-2008 5167.28 5532.52 10699.80
2008-2009 5918.51 6429.26 12347.77
2009-2010 6013.43 6483.29 12496.72
2010-2011 8432.40 9482.06 17914.46
2011-2012 9603.34 9486.39 19089.73
2012-2013 11039.85 10475.88 21515.73
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2013-2014 12442.07 12049.81 24491.88
2014-2015 13064.61 12426.79 25491.40
2015-2016 14738.74 13355.42 28094.16
2016-2017 14392.59 13757.25 28149.84
2017-2018 15426.25 15188.51 30614.76
Data Source Export Promotion Bureau Compiled by BGMEA
VALUE OF TOTAL APPAREL EXPORT
The calendar Year Basis

TOTAL APPAREL EXPORT IN MN.US$
YEAR WOVEN KNIT TOTAL
1994 1544.89 341.53 1886.42
1995 1976.40 512.18 2488.58
1996 1942.37 686.27 2628.64
1997 2621.33 810.49 3431.82
1998 2871.06 976.29 3847.35
1999 2987.73 1169.90 4157.63
2000 3376.49 1448.22 4824.71
2001 3162.28 1432.72 4595.00
2002 3076.28 1573.40 4649.68
2003 3398.84 1850.36 5249.20
2004 3686.78 2532.62 6219.40
2005 3689.60 3210.48 6900.08
2006 4544.83 4388.67 8933.50
2007 4608.40 4741.93 9350.33
2008 5655.50 6223.42 11878.92
2009 5695.88 6194.61 11890.49
2010 7067.34 7787.26 14854.60
2011 9252.80 9961.67 19214.47
2012 10117.43 9670.71 19788.14
2013 12052.30 11448.68 23500.98
2014 12421.26 12162.70 24583.96
2015 13805.44 12797.26 26602.70
2016 14931.33 13736.95 28668.29
2017 14673.99 14538.94 29212.93
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MAIN APPAREL ITEMS EXPORTED FROM BANGLADESH
(VALUE IN MN. US$)

YEAR SHIRTS TROUSERS JACKETS T-SHIRT SWEATER
1993-1994 805.34 80.56 126.85 225.9 ….
1994-1995 791.20 101.23 146.83 232.24 ….
1995-1996 807.66 112.02 171.73 366.36 70.41
1996-1997 759.57 230.98 309.21 391.21 196.6
1997-1998 961.13 333.28 467.19 388.5 296.29
1998-1999 1043.11 394.85 393.44 471.88 271.7
1999-2000 1021.17 484.06 439.77 563.58 325.07
2000-2001 1073.59 656.33 573.74 597.42 476.87
2001-2002 871.21 636.61 412.34 546.28 517.83
2002-2003 1019.87 643.66 464.51 642.62 578.37
2003-2004 1116.57 1334.85 364.77 1062.1 616.31
2004-2005 1053.34 1667.72 430.28 1349.71 893.12
2005-2006 1056.69 2165.25 389.52 1781.51 1044.01
2006-2007 943.44 2201.32 1005.06 2208.9 1248.09
2007-2008 915.6 2512.74 1181.52 2765.56 1474.09
2008-2009 1000.16 3007.29 1299.74 3065.86 1858.62
2009-2010 993.41 3035.35 1350.43 3145.52 1795.39
2010-2011 1566.42 4164.16 1887.50 4696.57 2488.19
2011-2012 1733.54 4686.39 2231.16 4713.11 2340.34
2012-2013 1972.89 5185.48 2634.28 5143.22 2620.73
2013-2014 2173.73 5690.78 2973.16 5863.81 2932.94
2014-2015 2271.43 5697.83 3183.17 6064.13 2829.16
2015-2016 2317.09 6319.00 3774.08 6118.53 3182.47
2016-2017 2108.38 6026.69 3546.88 5861.98 3361.53
2017-2018 2063.57 6389.38 3978.47 6292.25 3674.70
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Bangladesh's RMG Export to World 2015 to 2017
The value in Million US$
Woven Knit Total

EU Countries 2015 2016 2017 2015 2016 2017 2015 2016 2017
Austria 22.34 26.73 14.32 27.19 29.16 23.65 49.53 55.89 37.97
Belgium 344.81 421.01 334.17 412.99 432.72 381.47 757.80 853.73 715.64
Bulgaria 0.09 0.35 0.34 0.77 1.63 1.66 0.86 1.98 2.00
Denmark 212.31 236.16 221.98 398.43 450.28 435.44 610.74 686.44 657.42
Finland 6.59 5.66 6.41 21.41 23.16 24.26 28.00 28.82 30.68
France 649.63 737.19 724.05 985.61 1059.33 1050.03 1635.24 1796.52 1774.08
Germany 1839.02 2288.24 2194.71 2525.05 2832.85 2973.31 4364.06 5121.09 5168.02
Greece 5.26 6.76 21.46 18.11 24.31 24.55 23.37 31.07 46.01
Italy 472.92 475.76 499.31 771.33 836.75 952.89 1244.25 1312.51 1452.21
Ireland 77.19 74.08 81.28 121.81 115.44 85.17 198.99 189.52 166.45
Netherlands 291.39 331.71 421.30 342.10 382.74 494.66 633.49 714.45 915.95
Portugal 12.04 19.30 24.52 32.44 39.77 46.18 44.49 59.07 70.70
Romania 4.44 4.10 4.61 7.25 7.41 13.31 11.68 11.51 17.92
Spain 768.71 853.99 962.89 958.49 1059.65 1148.85 1727.20 1913.64 2111.74
Sweden 141.92 168.53 195.58 274.02 291.41 336.21 415.94 459.94 531.79
U.K. 1629.25 1755.52 1800.74 1604.91 1684.36 1823.03 3234.16 3439.88 3623.77
Cyprus 0.43 0.50 0.23 1.82 1.47 1.27 2.25 1.97 1.50
Czech 153.57 53.38
Republic 378.24 321.37 78.55 89.39 206.94 456.79 410.76
Estonia 0.24 0.17 0.00 0.83 1.00 1.34 1.07 1.17 1.33
Hungary 0.45 0.34 0.49 3.94 3.23 1.83 4.38 3.57 2.32
Latvia 0.98 0.13 0.04 2.60 1.35 1.03 3.58 1.47 1.07
Lithuania 0.26 0.04 0.68 0.89 0.88 2.16 1.15 0.92 2.84
Malta 3.42 1.78 2.72 4.80 3.00 3.59 8.22 4.78 6.32
Poland 228.47 249.52 287.51 348.66 411.23 504.71 577.13 660.75 792.23
Slovakia 30.61 34.14 35.05 45.63 43.42 45.01 76.24 77.56 80.06
Slovenia 8.92 14.27 15.35 19.03 32.25 44.88 27.95 46.52 60.23
Croatia 4.90 5.70 5.66 9.06 9.62 8.93 13.96 15.31 14.59
Sub-Total
(EU) 6910.14 8089.91 8176.79 8992.53 9856.96 10518.82 15902.68 17946.87 18695.61
EU % of
World 50.05 54.18 55.72 70.27 71.76 72.35 59.78 62.60 64.00
Growth % 10.91 17.07 1.07 2.42 9.61 6.71 5.95 12.85 4.17
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USA 4233.65 4051.28 3879.99 1425.26 1317.37 1366.92 5658.91 5368.65 5246.91
% of USA 30.67 27.13 26.44 11.14 9.59 9.40 21.27 18.73 17.96
Growth % 11.31 -4.31 -4.23 18.33 -7.57 3.76 13.00 -5.13 -2.27
Canada 569.91 558.45 556.86 403.88 406.86 419.94 973.79 965.31 976.80
% of Canada 4.13 3.74 3.79 3.16 2.96 2.89 3.66 3.37 3.34
Growth % 8.39 -2.01 -0.28 0.13 0.74 3.22 4.80 -0.87 1.19
Non-
Traditional
Markets
Australia 216.66 225.30 216.75 389.54 377.07 394.06 606.20 602.37 610.80
Brazil 79.68 40.53 69.56 82.69 45.52 67.00 162.37 86.05 136.56
Chile 15.67 23.55 28.06 22.18 29.30 37.6845 37.84 52.85 65.74
China 174.69 221.63 209.75 130.80 172.07 158.817 305.48 393.70 368.56
India 81.85 101.68 120.89 27.16 38.68 53.35 109.01 140.35 174.24
Japan 363.37 385.07 353.63 317.32 411.98 386.94 680.69 797.06 740.57
Korea Rep. 95.36 101.89 81.50 72.94 74.55 89.61 168.29 176.44 171.12
Mexico 60.07 60.26 58.34 84.69 74.37 72.96 144.75 134.63 131.29
Russia 92.29 134.85 173.71 124.31 168.44 229.06 216.60 303.29 402.77
South Africa 40.48 32.22 30.74 33.11 27.28 33.41 73.59 59.50 64.15
Turkey 349.27 367.80 192.71 124.41 108.92 77.91 473.69 476.72 270.62
Other 522.35 566.46
Countries 536.91 524.73 627.58 632.46 1088.81 1164.49 1157.18
Sub-Total
(Non-Trad.) 2091.73 2231.68 2060.35 1975.59 2155.77 2233.26 4067.32 4387.45 4293.60
% of Non-
Traditional 15.15 14.95 14.04 15.44 15.69 15.36 15.29 15.30 14.70
% Growth of
Non- 12.36 6.69 -7.68 11.31 9.12 3.59 11.85 7.87 -2.14
Traditional
GRAND
TOTAL 13805.44 14931.33 14673.99 12797.26 13736.95 14538.94 26602.70 28668.29 29212.93
Growth % 11.14 8.16 -1.72 5.22 7.34 5.84 8.21 7.76 1.90
Source: EPB, Compiled by RDTI Cell, BGMEA
Bangladesh's RMG Export to World (FY 14-15, FY15-16 & FY16-17)
Source: EPB, Compiled by RDTI Cell, BGMEA
BANGLADESH'S RMG EXPORTS TO WORLD, FY 2017-18 & 2018-19
ALL COUNTRIES
Month
Woven Knit Total (Woven+Knit)
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Year Growth Year Growth Growth
2017/18 2018/19 Rate 2017/18 2018/19 Rate 2017/18 2018/19 Rate
July 1215.93 1490.62 22.59 1263.34 1527.12 20.88 2479.27 3017.74 21.72
August 1439.45 1331.67 -7.49 1605.53 1385.75 -13.69 3044.98 2717.42 -10.76
September 741.77 1162.53 56.72 878.08 1293.98 47.36 1619.85 2457 51.65
October
November
December
January
February
March
April
May
June
Total: 3397.17 3984.82 17.30 3746.95 4206.85 12.27 7144.12 8191.67 14.66
Source: EPB
BANGLADESH'S RMG EXPORTS TO WORLD, FY 2016-17 & 2017-18
ALL COUNTRIES
Woven Knit
Month Growth Growth Total (Woven+Knit) Growth
Year Year
Rate Rate Rate
2016/17 2017/18 2016/17 2017/18 2016/17 2017/18
July 1040.35 1215.95 16.88 1077.23 1263.34 17.28 2117.58 2479.29 17.08
August 1330.68 1439.45 8.17 1395.61 1605.53 15.04 2726.29 3044.98 11.69
September 894.08 741.77 -17.04 927.95 878.08 -5.37 1822.03 1619.85 -11.10
October 1021.19 1054.36 3.25 1134.35 1239.25 9.25 2155.54 2293.61 6.41
November 1212.31 1266.41 4.46 1097.60 1258.10 14.62 2309.91 2524.51 9.29
December 1397.51 1459.58 4.44 1180.84 1350.97 14.41 2578.35 2810.55 9.01
January 1456.81 1571.22 7.85 1246.72 1311.11 5.16 2703.53 2882.33 6.61
February 1209.70 1381.63 14.21 1015.95 1219.28 20.01 2225.65 2600.91 16.86
March 1222.65 1382.93 13.11 1067.30 1195.48 12.01 2289.95 2578.41 12.60
April 1097.86 1251.97 14.04 1110.62 1219.15 9.77 2208.48 2471.12 11.89
May 1236.69 1423.23 15.08 1250.77 1399.77 11.91 2487.46 2823.00 13.49
June 1272.76 1237.75 -2.75 1252.31 1248.45 -0.31 2525.07 2486.20 -1.54
Total 14392.59 15426.25 7.18 13757.25 15188.51 10.40 28149.84 30614.76 8.76
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Woven Knit Total
EU Countries 2015-16 2016-17 2017-18 2015-16 2016-17 2017-18 2015-16 2016-17 2017-18
Austria 22.51 24.89 6.52 28.07 27.88 21.20 50.58 52.77 27.72
Belgium 398.63 364.82 319.79 436.70 388.34 385.78 835.33 753.16 705.57
Bulgaria 0.10 0.43 0.58 1.21 1.50 2.66 1.31 1.94 3.25
Denmark 223.58 229.67 229.09 419.08 442.17 438.86 642.66 671.84 667.95
Finland 6.51 4.95 6.96 22.87 24.21 22.96 29.38 29.16 29.92
France 701.63 714.34 780.40 1012.68 1050.30 1071.53 1714.31 1764.64 1851.93
Germany 2013.14 2320.25 2362.94 2639.99 2814.77 3216.58 4653.13 5135.01 5579.51
Greece 5.96 7.89 20.39 20.71 23.49 29.95 26.66 31.39 50.34
Italy 478.59 477.97 506.21 799.48 870.61 947.83 1278.07 1348.58 1454.04
Ireland 78.66 73.03 76.58 123.09 84.19 93.29 201.75 157.22 169.88
Netherlands 313.42 381.81 414.76 346.13 432.53 520.62 659.55 814.34 935.38
Portugal 14.92 22.35 23.69 37.99 45.26 45.14 52.90 67.61 68.83
Romania 3.99 3.94 5.13 6.53 9.90 14.32 10.52 13.84 19.46
Spain 831.64 828.09 1056.83 1032.40 1050.65 1220.95 1864.04 1878.74 2277.77
Sweden 159.04 183.42 194.71 278.17 309.30 338.38 437.21 492.72 533.09
U.K. 1839.69 1637.55 1826.62 1684.09 1668.95 1897.63 3523.78 3306.50 3724.26
Cyprus 0.52 0.26 0.30 1.35 1.39 1.07 1.87 1.65 1.37
Czech Republic 347.30 264.24 397.98 67.07 83.23 94.31 414.37 347.47 492.29
Estonia 0.00 0.17 0.06 1.03 1.33 1.20 1.03 1.50 1.26
Hungary 0.36 0.52 0.59 3.50 2.21 2.14 3.86 2.73 2.72
Latvia 0.50 0.10 0.04 2.33 1.11 0.71 2.84 1.21 0.75
Lithuania 0.14 0.54 0.43 1.02 1.59 3.35 1.15 2.12 3.78
Malta 2.66 1.26 2.95 5.06 2.38 3.21 7.72 3.64 6.16
Poland 239.17 260.02 328.67 377.10 460.07 536.19 616.27 720.10 864.85
Slovakia 32.91 33.02 37.62 41.75 45.25 46.53 74.66 78.27 84.15
Slovenia 11.42 15.47 14.43 23.18 41.21 43.09 34.60 56.68 57.52
Croatia 4.96 6.02 5.36 8.82 9.76 9.92 13.79 15.78 15.28
Sub-Total (EU) 7731.96 7857.02 8619.61 9421.40 9893.58 11009.41 17153.36 17750.60 19629.02
EU % of World 52.46 54.59 55.88 70.54 71.92 72.49 61.06 63.06 64.12
Growth% 18.60 1.62 9.71 6.49 5.01 11.28 11.63 3.48 10.58
USA 4228.62 3901.94 3977.70 1396.30 1302.06 1374.37 5624.92 5204.01 5352.07
% of USA 28.69 27.11 25.79 10.45 9.46 9.05 20.02 18.49 17.48
Growth% 6.49 -7.73 1.94 6.01 -6.75 5.55 6.37 -7.48 2.85
Canada 575.71 541.49 552.13 422.73 404.81 411.02 998.44 946.30 963.15
% of Canada 3.91 3.76 3.58 3.17 2.94 2.71 3.55 3.36 3.15
Growth% 5.64 -5.94 1.97 10.15 -4.24 1.53 7.50 -5.22 1.78
Non-Traditional
Markets
Australia 229.31 210.47 242.85 406.97 371.55 391.16 636.27 582.02 634.01
Brazil 58.39 48.38 80.64 61.81 51.43 77.74 120.20 99.81 158.38
Chile 19.81 25.68 34.28 26.08 33.19 44.67 45.89 58.87 78.95
China 197.78 221.77 233.89 143.44 169.82 157.75 341.22 391.60 391.64
India 102.17 92.36 207.62 34.25 37.45 71.06 136.42 129.81 278.68
Japan 391.43 345.43 401.94 383.04 399.04 444.80 774.47 744.48 846.74
Korea Rep. 110.16 86.70 93.84 76.00 78.13 98.13 186.16 164.83 191.97
Mexico 63.63 55.38 68.61 85.19 69.46 79.74 148.82 124.84 148.35
Russia 109.96 172.03 167.24 139.20 207.38 260.68 249.16 379.41 427.93
South Africa 36.69 29.13 32.58 30.18 28.86 40.68 66.87 57.98 73.27
Turkey 342.85 289.05 174.27 117.45 92.32 85.89 460.29 381.37 260.16
Other Countries 540.30 515.76 539.04 611.37 618.16 641.41 1151.67 1133.92 1180.44
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Sub-Total (Non-
Trad.) 2202.46 2092.14 2276.81 2114.99 2156.79 2393.71 4317.46 4248.93 4670.52
% of Non-
Traditional 14.94 14.54 14.76 15.84 15.68 15.76 15.37 15.09 15.26
% Growth of
8.53 -5.01 12.58 1.98 10.48 -1.59
Non- Traditional 8.83 10.98 9.92
GRAND TOTAL 14738.744 14392.59 15426.25 13355.424 13757.25 15188.51 28094.17 28149.84 30614.76
% Growth 12.81 -2.35 7.18 7.47 3.01 10.40 10.21 0.20 8.76
Source: EPB
Published: 2018-10-18
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Lecture 2
What is the direct Contribution of RMG sector of Bangladesh?
24 | P a g e
Lecture 2
Impact of fashion and apparel industries to the economy of Bangladesh
Describe the Contribution of RMG sector in the economic development of

Bangladesh
Or
What is the direct Contribution of RMG sector of Bangladesh?

Or
Write the contribution of RMG sector of Bangladesh for its socio-economic

development.
As the demand for readymade garments increases rapidly across the global market, Bangladesh’s
position as the world’s second largest readymade garment exporter continues to hold strong.
-The Bangladesh government just set a $37 billion export target for the 2016-17 fiscal year, of
which over $30 billion will be contributed by the ready-made garment sector – the country’s largest
source for export earnings.
- According to the data from Bangladesh’s Export Promotion Bureau, the garment and apparel
industry in Bangladesh generated $28.09 billion exports in the fiscal year 2015-16 with a 10.21%
growth from the previous year.
-The growth was mainly attributed to political calmness during the year, increased productivity,
entrepreneurs’ resilience and improvement of workers’ safety standards in factories. The
readymade garment (RMG) industry in Bangladesh is the largest and most renowned
manufacturing sector and GDP contributor.
-Bangladesh exports around $30 billion readymade garments every year. The advantages of
Bangladesh’s readymade garment industry, including low labour cost, favourable business
climate, and well-established transportation facility, are pushing the industry to develop at a
significant rate.
25 | P a g e
- Readymade Garment Industry in India Expects Further Expansion Today, readymade garments
exported from Bangladesh represent around 6% of the global clothing market.
-Bangladesh surpassed India to become the world’s second-largest exporter in 2003. An increasing
number of famous international fashion brands, such as Zara, H&M, Gap and Levi’s, are already
manufacturing and importing clothes from Bangladesh. It is expected that Bangladesh will
continue to strengthen its position as the leading readymade garment exporting country.
- Meanwhile, the textile and readymade garment industry in Bangladesh is also putting more effort
into improving gender equality in the country and empowering women to work. The
government of Bangladesh has consistently made it a point that women remain the focus area in
most of their policy plans. At present, the textile industry employs around 4 million citizens and
is one industry where women are in high numbers – almost 90% of the workforce. To continue
increasing the country’s readymade garment exports in the global market, the Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers
and Exporters Association (BKMEA) are focusing on further boosting and promoting the
country’s readymade garment sector by facilitating a healthier business environment, training
more skilled workers, improving social compliance status, and improving coordination among the
manufacturers, exporters and importers, with the goal of increasing Bangladesh’s foreign exchange
earnings. Now Bangladesh’s vision is to achieve $50 billion readymade garment exports by 2021
Bangladesh export inched up 5.81 per cent to 36.67 billion U.S. dollars in the just concluded
2017-18 fiscal year, an official from Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).
Bangladesh earned a total of 36,668.17 million U.S. dollars from exports in the last fiscal
year (July 2017-June 2018), compared to 34,655.90 million U.S. dollars in the previous
year.
With 2.94 billion U.S. dollars export earning in June this year, down 3.08 per cent over the
same period a year ago, the EPB official the country's overall export earnings in the last
fiscal year fell short of the target of 37.50 billion U.S. dollars by 2.22 per cent.
Bangladesh's export income in the previous 2016-17 fiscal year (July 2016-June 2017) was
registered at 34.66 billion dollars.
As always, the growth in the 2017-18 fiscal year largely attributed to the growing demand
for the ready-made garment industry.
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According to the official, knitwear garment export grew 10.40 per cent to 15.19 billion U.S.
dollars while woven garments rose 7.18 per cent to 15.43 billion dollars in the 2017-18 fiscal
year, compared with the same period of previous fiscal.
Present Situation of RMG Sector in Bangladesh
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Lecture 3
Present Situation of RMG Sector in Bangladesh
Q. Discuss the present contributing situation of the ready-
made garment sector of Bangladesh.
The quota system was a great blessing for establishing our garments industry. We were strongly
benefited by using that. As a result, we can see a matured garments industry today. But while the
quota system was approaching to an end in 2004, there are so many got upset about the RMG
sector of Bangladesh. Though in the latter it can’t be affected here as the experts seemed. We
conquered the post-quota challenges and made that a successful story.
In the RMG sector of Bangladesh, there are more than 5000 garment factories (private statistics)
at the current time, employing more than 12 lack labours, where 85% of the labour force is women.
But, according to BGMEA the number of garment factories in Bangladesh around 4000. Now, the
RMG industry is the country’s largest export earner with the value of over $24.49bn of exports in
the last financial year. It’s great news for us that, Bangladesh is clearly ahead from other South
Asian suppliers in terms of the capacity of the readymade garments industry.
Though, there are various types of garments are manufactured in Bangladesh, but all the
readymade garments are classified into two broad categories, where one is woven products and
another one is knitted products. Woven products include Shirts, Pants and Trousers. On the other
hand, the knitted product includes T-Shirts, Polo Shirts, Undergarments, Socks, Stockings and
Sweaters. Woven garments still dominate the export earnings of the country. From BGMEA
website its seen that Day by day knitted items production is increasing in considerable rate and
now about 40% export earnings have achieved from knitted products.
The contribution of RMG Sector to the National Economy: The role RMG sector in
Bangladesh economy is remarkable. It’s seen that, from the last decade, the RMG sector
contributes to the national economy in a considerable rate. About 86% of total export earnings
come from the RMG sector. From a statistic it’s known that, in FY 2003-04 RMG sector of
Bangladesh earned US$ 5,686.06 million, in FY 2004-05 the value was US$ 6,417.67.67 million,
in FY 2005-06 the value was US$ 7900.80 million, in FY 2006-07 the value was US$ 9,211.23
million, in FY 2007-08 the value was US$ 10,699.80 million, in FY 2008-09 the value as US$
12.35 billion and finally in FY 2013-14 the value stands at $24.49billion. In 2014-15 it was 28.09
billion whereas, 2015-16 it was recorded 28.20 billion. FY 2016-17 it was 34.4 billion and FY
28 | P a g e
2017-18 it reached 36.67 billion
Q. What is the Opportunity of RMG sector in Bangladesh?
The opportunity of RMG Sector in Bangladesh:
RMG sector of Bangladesh has some key factors which inspired for the steady growth of this
sector. Though it’s a matter of great surprise for so many that how the RMG sector of Bangladesh
continues to show its robust performance in the world.
Positive key factors which have great influence on the RMG sector of Bangladesh are in the
following:
1. Vast labour force,

2. Skilled human resources,
3. Technological upgrades,
4. Government supports for textile and clothing,
5. Special economic/export processing zones,
6. Creation of textile and clothing villages,
7. The incentive for use of local inputs,
8. Duty reduction for the import of inputs/machines,
9. Income tax reduction,
10. And international supports like duty-free access etc.
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Q. What are the Strategies to attract more famous buyers for the readymade Garment sector
of Bangladesh?
We have vast labour force through most of them are illiterate and are being ignorant in society.
By educating and training the huge labour force can be turned to the great asset of the country. To
attract more famous buyers of the country for RMG goods, we can adopt the following strategies:
Those key factors are-
a. Cost Effective Strategy,

b. New Product Development strategy,
c. Product Diversification Strategy and
d. Market Diversification Strategy.
All the above points are discussed in the below:
Cost Effective Strategy:
Cost Effective Strategy includes the following two key points:
1. Cost Reduction Strategy and

2. Labour Productivity Improvement.
Those key points are discussed in the below:
1. Cost Reduction Strategy:
Cost reduction strategy should begin with assigning the highest priority for establishing backward
linkages. The establishment of backward linkages will reduce our dependence on foreign sources
which will reduce the total and average production cost of garments. This Strategy will make our
products more competitive in the world’s readymade garments market.
2. Labour Productivity Improvement:
Bangladeshi workers are not effective as of Hong Kong, South Korea and Sri Lankan workers.
Wages are low in Bangladesh, but it does not necessarily mean that relatively low wages workers
automatically lead to higher productivity. So, to keep the place in the world’s largest competitive
market, labour productivity must be improved.
New Product Development strategy:
It’s a matter of great sorrow for us that, we are regularly produced the same products. Our product
categories are very less in quantities. Our product items that are exported into foreign market are
30 | P a g e
Shirts-60%, Jackets-11%, Knit items-10%, Trousers-7% and Others-11.50%. To survive in the
world’s most competitive RMG market, we must develop new product items with a lot of
variations.
Product Diversification Strategy:
Product Diversification Strategy is an important factor to keep the place in the world’s readymade
garments market. Different types of products should be produced by applying fashion. Thailand,
China, India, Pakistan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and others are the main
competitors of Bangladesh. They are already ahead of Bangladesh in product diversification
strategy areas.
Market Diversification Strategy:
Bangladesh has exported its products in the world’s limited market. Mostly are in USA, Canada
and Europe. About 46% of its total garment exports go to the USA, 14% to Canada and the rest of
those into the European market. The competitors of Bangladesh are regularly expanding their
markets and keep changing their products by using fashion.
The following key factors must be undertaken during a market diversification strategy:
1. Market research on product design

2. Market research on product development,
3. Market promotion through trade fairs, exhibition, etc.
4. Human resources development by providing training.
Causes of Labor Unrest:

1. Poor payment: in comparison with other countries, Bangladeshi Readymade Garment workers are ill-
paid. From table 1, though the garment workers earn the largest portion of the foreign earnings (about 86%),
they are ignored and comparatively paid less than half of the oil mills’ workers. More surprisingly, from
table 2, readymade garments workers of the country are paid only $ 0. 22/hour whereas, China $1.88, India,
$0.51 and Pakistan is paying $0.56. Turkey is at the top by paying $2.44 whereas, Bangladesh is in the
bottom paying by $.022!
2. Irregular payment: Most of the factories don’t clear workers payment on time in the readymade
garment industry. Different factors are working there. Sometimes, garments factories are short up by capital
or cash inflow. On the other hand, factories that are engaged in subcontract work hardly can pay their
workers payment timely as the main factories pay the subcontract factories after the successful shipment
after a time (Bhuiyan 2012).
3. Overwork: readymade garment sector is the area where overwork is considered as a simple
phenomenon by the employers that the workers must do it normally. Most of the time, workers have the
tendency to do the same by different types of motivation. As our people are emotional and the factory
31 | P a g e
supervising people can easily motivate them by their sweet words. Sometimes, workers have to do the
works as the employers imposed them to work by treating them to fire from the job, if the shipment is the
failure or for other difficulties (Haider 2007, June 01) (Bhuiyan 2012).
4. Physical & Mental harassment: Garments workers are harassed by their supervisors mentally and
even physically in different issues. There are some compliance issues regarding their works in the factories.
Hardly are they allowed to use toilets during the work though it may there be the emergency in some cases.
Some of the factories male and female workers use the same toilet by the ignorance of the authority concern.
5. Abuse: Abuse is very common in the garment industry. Most of the time female workers are abused
by the co-workers or immediate supervisors (A. A. Mustafizur Rahman 2006). Workers’ rights are violated
by the authority as there is the absence of compliance in the production area.
6. The absence of holiday & leave: In the readymade garment sector, hardly there is left for the workers.
Even sometimes, they cannot able the government holidays though it is their right as the human being.
Supervising people sometimes, argue to set the job for the shipment emergency and to facilitate the workers
by overtime payment. Some of the factories there are good planning with leave and holidays nowadays
which are comparatively very narrow in the figure.
7. Working Environment: Readymade garment sector is the sector of sweatshop which is historically
hatred for its putrid working environment. This is the age of globalization; hence, the garment sector
requires a good compliance working environment to maximize the worker's right issues and to uphold the
human right consequently. It’s natural that sometimes the supervising people consider the garments worker
not better than a slave through some of the factories are going to improve the working environment.
8. Many other compliances and inhumating issues.
Recommendations to decrease labor unrest:

The garment sector is the main bread earner of the country. To eliminate the barriers are mostly required if
we want to earn $ 50.00 billion by 2021. Following are the recommended outlines to improve the situation.
1. Labour rights should be emphasized by the owners and supervisors of the readymade garment
industries. Still now in most of the factories, there are no job letters confirmed by the authority (Bhuiyan
2012), which is mostly needed for the workers and others. In the job letter, everything should be specifically
written to be followed by both parties (workers and authority of the readymade garment factories).
2. Abuse and harassments of the workers should be stopped, and the government should follow up
the allegations. Center for crisis solution should be set up by the government to ensure the labour right
according to the existing labour law of the country.
3. Workers payment should there be on time so that the workers can set their mind at the work with
motivation and dedication. Some of the garments (say Standard Group) have taken very good steps like
rationing supports, provident fund, gratuity and group insurance for the workers. There is no record of
labour unrest in the industry as the workers think to develop the company is the ultimate development of
themselves. Our concern is that, if some of the companies can do this why not by the others?
32 | P a g e
4. Buyers or customers of the readymade garment industries should increase their wages or CM as
they are paying in the other countries, like India, Vietnam, China, etc. Unfortunately, the buyers are
threatening to the garment owner to increase the wages of the garments workers instead of increasing the
same from their side (Chowdhury Golam Hossain February 2012).
5. Revivifications of the garments sector (which is the process after the Rana Plaza accident) is mostly
required to heighten the working facilities of the workers. Factories relocation is mostly required in some
cases as there are very limited facilities comparatively other countries’ garment sector.
6. Though it is very earnestly required by the opinions of others, I am not in this situation to support
the other experts along with the buyers that trade unions of the workers are the main solution here to set the
labour right. We have many failure sections due to only trade unions in this country. Bangladesh railway,
Bank sector, Bangladesh Jute Mills are the vital examples of failure or ruin due to the anarchy of the trade
unions. The leaders of the trade unions are linked with the empowered political parties and always able
different types of facilities without rendering the assigned responsibilities.
7. The government can ensure the future of the garment workers by ensuring their future facilities
like insurance against the job, by distributing the government Khas land or to set up ‘garment village’-
residential areas. There should be criteria to distribute the flat to the workers. Say a worker who has 20
years of record of work successfully will be eligible for a flat by paying a minimum amount. There should
be a loan facility for them from the bank.
8. Garments worker are very busy in their work. Hardly have they got time for their kids to look after
their education. On the contrary, the students are the future of the country. Their academic life is mostly
neglected than others. Our government should set up more schools in the residential areas of the garments’
workers of the country, so their wards can receive the education free of cost.
9. Training facilities should be increased for the garment workers so that they can devote their
inventiveness and increase the productivity for the goal of development of the garment sectors. China,
Indonesia, Vietnam even India are the countries where garment workers skills are developed by training.
Garments training institute should be set up by our government where most recent technologies should be
introduced with the garment’s workers for their skills development.
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Lecture 3
Challenges for RMG Sector of Bangladesh
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Q. What are the challenges of the RMG sector of Bangladesh?
Challenges for RMG Sector of Bangladesh:
Though the RMG sector of Bangladesh has achieved the second spot for the highest number of
garments exporter, it has a lot of challenges as well:
1. Competition with other country:
2. Security in work: The major problems faced by the RMG sector currently is the lack of safety
in working place and working conditions for the millions of garments workers. It’s become a great
challenge for the upcoming fiscal year of Bangladesh. Two major incidents in the RMG sector of
Bangladesh are the Tazreen fire and the Rana Plaza collapse, which have brought the issue of
workplace safety to the fore and led all stakeholders to act accordingly. But it’s good news for
RMG sector that, following the unfortunate incidents, various platforms such as the Bangladesh
Accord on Fire and Building Safety, the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety and National Plan
of Action have been formed to improve building and fire safety of Bangladesh’s garment industry.
Also, BGMEA and BKMEA are working together here to solve such kinds of problems. They have
also taken necessary actions and invested a huge amount of money.
3. Political instability: Politically Bangladesh is not a stable country which has a great influence
over the garment sector of the country. It was supposed to expand the market, but we cannot do
for many as per our target because of many issues, political instability is one of them. It creates a
negative impact on the RMG sector of Bangladesh. If it continues, it will be a massive blow to
destroy our most valuable sector. So, political leaders should come out immediately to solve such
kinds of problems.
4. Lack of Proper training: Our garment workers are not trained and lack of education. So, there
is a lot of impact in the production process and process loss is huge. In the ratio of cost-benefit
analysis, Bangladesh is losing a great amount of foreign currency every year.
5. Shortage power & Gas supply: Bangladesh is in a shortage of electricity which is the lifeblood
of readymade garment industry.
It’s a huge responsibility for the government of Bangladesh to ensure working place safety in all
the garments manufacturing factories. If we can’t do it, foreign buyers will refuse to place order
here, which will be a massive blow for the RMG sector of Bangladesh. We hope, the government
of Bangladesh, BGMEA and BKMEA, with the support of global brands and international
development partners, will be able to ensure the safety of the RMG industry and maintain the
momentum of socio-economic development in the country.
Problems of Garments Workers

1. Poorly served by labour laws
2. Promote and protect workers’ rights and enforce
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3. Too much of trade unionism
4. Do not provide weekly holiday, casual leave, a bearable increase in their wages and safe
conditions of work in the factories.
5. The lowest salary
6. Govt. is not trying to serve the interests of garment workers
7. Do not implement any worker health and safety measures
8. Do not pay workers their salaries on time
9. Do not have appointment letters, identity cards, and service books to use as proof of
employment
10. An employee may work a maximum of 10 hours a day and 6 days per week but workers in
Bangladesh are allegedly forced to work 14 to 16 hours a day and seven days a week.
11. No safety measures
12. No residential facilities
13. They do not get tips, pensions or life insurance, and after retirement, many garment workers
have to go back home without any money at all in hand.
14. Workers, especially female workers, alleged that although there were physicians in some of
the factories the level of care is not good, and there is little or no medicine there.
15. Sometimes they work the whole night.
16. Overtime work is compulsory and forceful
17. There is no doctor, first aid, sufficient light and ventilation
18. There are no sufficient and pure drinking water and toilets for the workers
19. Maternity leaves are the absence
20. Do not have the daycare centres
21. Management does not ensure the security of women workers. Women workers faced rape
and sexual harassment outside the factories and sometimes inside the factories
22. Women workers are deprived of Equal wage, Equal dignity, Equal rights and Equal
promotions.
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Solution:
1. Take care of employee interest: the owners of the garments should take care of the need of the
employees properly.
2. Take part in decision making: the owner should take the decision of the worker for making
the main decision.
3. Govt. should be liberal: Govt. should not impose the unnecessary law against export-import
of garments product.
4. Economic fall should be avoided.
5. Improvement of buying a house: the staff of buying a house should take garments related
training and gather knowledge.
Hope for RMG Sector of Bangladesh:
According to the McKinsey survey, it’s seen that 86 per cent of the chief purchasing officers in
leading apparel companies in Europe and the United States planned to decrease levels of sourcing
in China over the next five years because of declining profit margins and capacity constraints.
Also, they said in that survey, “Western buyers are evaluating a considerable number of sourcing
options in the Far East and Southeast Asia, many chief purchasing officers said in the survey that
they view Bangladesh as the next hot spot”. Many chief purchasing officers mentioned Bangladesh
as the hot spot in the readymade garments market.
McKinsey survey also reported that, with about $15 billion in exports in 2010, ready-made
garments are the country’s most important industrial sector; which represents 13% and more than
75% of GDP and total exports, respectively. McKinsey forecasts, export-value growth of 7 to 9%
annually within the next ten years, so the market will double by 2015 and nearly triple.
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Lecture 04
Brands /Buyers working with the Garments of

Bangladesh:
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Brands /Buyers working with the Garments of
Bangladesh:
Normally it’s seen that buyers of Europe, Canada, USA, Japan, Australia, and India are the main
buyers of Bangladeshi garments and Textile products. Among of them here I will mention 100
buyers name which is too much important for our Bangladeshi garments and Textile products.
Garment Buyers in Bangladesh
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List of important buyers for Bangladeshi garments and textile products are
1. Adidas, 51. P.P Tex,

2. H&M, 52. Maxim,
3. Wal-Mart, 53. Multiline,
4. GAP, 54. Tesco,
5. Levi’s (Brand: Dockler, Denizer, Levi- 55. OBS,
Strauss), 56. Multiline,
6. Nike, 57. DR & S,
7. VF Asia (Brand: Lee, Wrangler), 58. MB Fashion,
8. PVH-Phillips Von Heuson (Brand: CK), 59. Colince,
9. Li & Fung, 60. Octagon,
10. Old Navy, 61. Katag,
11. Academy, 62. Cream soda,
12. US Polo, 63. Trig Lobe,
13. American Eagle, 64. Shobi fashion,
14. Banana, 65. Kiabi,
15. Peri Ellis. 66. Brice,
16. Zara, 67. Algodon,
17. Sains Burry, 68. Target,
18. C&A, 69. Zagora,
19. Hugo Boss, 70. Food Bridge,
20. Esprit, Mango, 71. Air Solution,
21. Puma, 72. Eurozone,
22. European Eagle, 73. Ginkana,
23. M&S, 74. Lion Star,
24. Tema, 75. Sumi Tomo,
25. Terco, 76. TKI,
26. Decathlon, 77. Ulla Pop ken,
27. Carrow, 78. New Yorker,
28. NKD, 79. Mister & Lady,
29. Lindex. 80. Wool Worth,
30. K-mart, 81. Q, Solution,
31. Uniquelo, 82. Maxim,
32. Hudson Bay, 83. Jules,
33. BlackBerry, 84. EWM,
34. Mahindra (Brand: Peter England), 85. Giordano,
35. ITC, 86. Carr era,
36. Ramond, 87. Neck & Neck,
37. S. Oliver, 88. Mono Prix,
38. IC Company, 89. Quick Silver,
39. Tom Tailor, 90. Inter Sport,
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40. Umbro, 91. Shobey,
41. Ed Ward Wang, 92. S.F.G,
42. New Look, 93. Pierre Cardin,
43. Maskos, 94. Matteo,
44. Up-2-Date, 95. Francesca,
45. Grenville, 96. Liujo,
46. Erima, 97. B.Young,
47. Asmara, 98. Women Secret,
48. Esprit, 99. Silvian Heach,
49. Gastric, 100. Etam.
50. Spider,
Major Buyers of Bangladesh RMG goods

Bangladesh is the second largest apparel exporter in the world, after China. The market share of
Bangladesh, in the $503 billion global garment items is 5.1 per cent, according to data from the
International Trade Statistics of the World Bank in 2014.
China’s market share is 38.6 per cent and Vietnam and India share 3.7 per cent. However, China
has been losing its market share mainly due to the higher cost of production and shortage of skilled
workforce in China.
Bangladesh is one of the major beneficiary countries of shifting work orders from China.
Following such a shift, Bangladesh’s export of garment items is on the rise as the global apparel
retail giants are also increasing the volume of work orders for a quality garment at competitive
prices.
Bangladesh exported garment items worth $25.50 billion in 2014-15 fiscal and the earning from
garment export during the first 11 months (July-May) of the current fiscal year is $25.08 billion.
Only five items covered 78.59 per cent or $20.04 billion of the total garment export earnings at
$25.50 billion in 2014-15 fiscal. The five items include shirts, trousers, jackets and sweaters.
The target for the fiscal was set at $27.37 billion. Almost all major retailers have been increasing
their volume of work orders in Bangladesh.
Currently, the Swedish retail giant H&M is the largest apparel buying company from
Bangladesh which purchases nearly $3billion in a year. The H&M mainly purchases T-
shirts, cotton trousers both for males and females, woven shirts, jackets and sweaters.
After the H&M, the US retail giant Walmart purchases more than $2.5 billion worth of
garment items. Walmart also buys T-shirts, kids wears, trousers both for males and females
and sweaters.
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The other major retailers are Li&Fung purchases nearly $1.5 billion worth of mainly
trousers, T-shirts, shirts and sweaters. The British retailer Primark buys $1.0 billion worth
of jeans pants, shirts and other denim products from Bangladesh in a year.
The Spanish retailer Inditex buys nearly $1.5 billion worth of women’s wear and trousers
and under its different brands like Zara, Lefties and Bershka. C&A purchases more than
$800 million in a year.
A few years ago, the German’s posh brand Hugo Boss started sourcing from Bangladesh
from a limited number of very compliant garment factories.
Although the purchaser volume of Hugo Boss is not so high, however, it is good news for
Bangladesh that such a posh brand also started sourcing from Bangladesh.
The company is increasing its volume in the country every year with the improvement of the
working environment and compliance practices. Hugo Boss mainly purchases T-shirts and
formal shirts from Bangladesh.
Another Germany posh brand Olymp also started sourcing formal shirts from Bangladesh.
The company’s purchase volume is not so high, but the manufacturers supply high-quality
men’s shirts to these high-end customers.
Other important retailers those which source nearly $1 billion worth of garment items each
from Bangladesh include Tesco, M&S, Gap, Nike, VF Asia, Levi’s and Adidas.
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Lecture 06
Success/Achievement of Bangladeshi Garment factories
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The success of Bangladesh's "Green Factories" in the RMG sector
Q. What is the achievement of Green Fashion in Bangladesh Ready-made garment sector?
Seven industrial units of the country have ranked among the top 10 on a list of the worlds’ 25 most
environment-friendly factories. Recently, Bangladesh's ready-made garment (RMG) sector had
been highly criticised by numerous quarters of the international community before coming under
government scrutiny. However, the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED)
certificate awarded by the U.S. Green Building Council, a Washington-based NGO, is a
testimony to Bangladesh's success in ensuring the maximum environmental safety of its
workplaces.
According to the list - Remi Holdings, the RMG factory in the Adamjee Export Processing Zone
(EPZ) of Narayanganj District became the number one environment-friendly factory in the world.
Narayanganj's Plummy Fashions became the runners-up. In addition, the country's other industrial
units that made it to the list include Vintage Denim (owned by ABA Group), SQ Celsius 2, Genesis
Washing, SQ ColBlanc and SQ Birichina. Owners, managers, employees and workers along with
all active stakeholders of these factories deserve applause for their extraordinary achievements.
Undoubtedly, their collective effort has led to a sterling success in protecting the workplace
environment, setting an example for others to follow.
Nevertheless, the idea of a "green factory" (with maximum eco-friendly facilities for workers)
should cover factories not only in the country's RMG sector but also in other sectors. There are
numerous complaints regarding the environmental safety of Bangladesh's other industrial sectors.
Meanwhile, the owner of one of the top 10 environment-friendly factories commented that the
buyers would not pay extra despite the high cost of making a factory environment-friendly. These
foreign buyers who are so concerned about the workplace environment are not likely to contribute
their shares to an actual commitment to ensuring the environmental safety of the factories.
Reneging on their commitment is worse than playing a double-standard role.
However, others should learn a great deal from the recent achievements of Bangladeshi factories.
Time has come to rectify the distorted image of the country's RMG sector left by Tazreen Fashions
and Rana Plaza factory incidents. The process of upgrading standards of workplace environment
in every other sector of the country should start now. After all, those people behind the success of
these RMG factories have demonstrated that building and sustaining a green factory are not beyond
people's power here. According to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association
(BGMEA), amid tight scrutiny from the government, most of the Bangladeshi RMG factories now
provide for a tolerable workplace environment with adequate humanitarian facilities for workers
and staff. Evidently, the US government has lost its justification before declining to grant any GSP
facility to the Bangladeshi RMG companies.
Washington never hesitated to express its once-justified concern about the workplace environment
in Bangladesh. But it has not asked reluctant buyers there to pay a fair price. This is simply
unacceptable. Dhaka should further raise the issue in a dialogue with the US government. The
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growth of the country's economy rests on the country's RMG sector, one way or the other.
Top ten environment-friendly factories of the world
1. Remi Holdings Bangladesh (97 points)
2. Plummy Fashions Bangladesh (92 points)
3. A factory in Ireland Name Kept Secret by USGBC (90 points)
3. Vintage Denim Studio Bangladesh (90 points)
4. Bottega Veneta Italy (86 point)
4. Method products PBC USA (86 point)
5. SQ Celsius 2 Bangladesh (85 points)
6.FGL Tan Phu Expansion Vietnam (84 points)
7. Princetel USA (83 points)
8.Foxconn Guizhou 4g China (82 points)
9. Genesis Washing Bangladesh (81 points)
9. SQ Collblanc Bangladesh (81 points)
9. SQ Birichina Ltd Bangladesh (81 points)
10. CFK-INTEGRAL Germany (80 points)
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Lecture 07
Management Hierarchy of a garment factory
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Lecture:07
• Flow Chart of Management Hierarchy for Apparel Industry

• Functions of Different Section of an Apparel Industry
• Departments of a fashion industry
Flow Chart of Management Hierarchy for Apparel Industry:
Apparel manufacturing industries are the fast-growing sector in developing and under developing
countries. Different factors are responsible for this reason. Anyhow an industry which is small or large it
has a managerial system by which that industry is running.
Managerial hierarchy of an apparel industry can be defined as a system of grades of authority or status
from the lowest to the highest. Managerial hierarchy of an apparel industry can be as follow
Chairman
↓
Managing Director (MD)
↓
Executive Director (ED)
↓
Director (Administration/Finance/Merchandising)
↓
General Manager (Production/Quality)
↓
Manager (Production/Quality/Merchandising)
↓
Assistant Manager (Production/Quality/Merchandising)
↓
Line Chief (LC)
↓
Supervisors & Inspectors
↓
Operators & Worker
This hierarchy is started from grade number 1 and end at grade number 10, where Chairman is at the
top level and operators & workers are at the lowest level. So, it is important to ensure all contribute to
the production process that is directly or indirectly involved with the production process.
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Lecture 8
Functions of Different Section of an Apparel Industry
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Lecture 08
Functions of Different Section of an Apparel Industry:
Apparel industry consists of a different section. Every section is responsible for better
production. Here, I have included the section which is directly related to the production. There is
some subdivision in all the section which will be focused through that’s section. Following
sections are the principle section regarded with production. The functions of a different section
of an apparel industry are given below. They are-
• Sample Section: Sample section is the first section of the apparel manufacturing industry.
1. To make the correct sample is the first functions of the sample section.
2. To perform pattern grading.
• Cutting Section: Cutting section is the second section after the sample section. Here, cutting
operation is done by the cutter. Here, the following work is done.
1. Fabric spreading on the cutting table or floor.

2. Marker making according to the pattern.
3. To cut fabric according to the marker.
• Sewing Section: In the sewing section, cut pieces of fabric are assembled by the sewing
operation.
1. Apparel is assembled by the sewing.

2. After sewing, inspection is done to identify the sewing faults.
• Finishing Section: After sewing, the fabric is sent to the finishing section. Different types of
ornamenting work are done here.
1. Ironing
2. Folding
3. Packing
4. Arranging
5. Final inspection is done by the quality control officer. After quality inspection; it is decided that
the fabric is ok for delivery or is it reject.
• Store: Store is essential to preserve the raw materials and final finished goods. It is important to
maintain correct information about the currently stored materials.
1. Material receiving.
2. The issue to production units.
• Maintenance Section: Maintenance section is responsible to ensure the proper function of the
machine and its parts. They do the following works.
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1. To store machine parts.
2. To supply tools and equipment.
Above sections are important to maintain good production efficiency. If any of the section becomes
failed to maintain the proper work, then the production will be hampered. So, management, who
is responsible for the production should ensure the proper work of each section of the apparel
industry.
Departments of the fashion industry: The main areas of work in the fashion industry is-
Design department: Manufacturing units work on a large scale. They employ designers, cutting assistants,
and sketching, junior designers. Cutting assistants must cut samples as per the specification of the
designer. This is followed by draping and garments construction. Sketching assistants make the technical
sketches of the garments which are passed on to cutting assistants. From the makers of the specification,
drawings decide how a garment must be fabricated to the selection of fabrics is often the duty of the
sketching assistant. Junior designers generally do the first pattern cutting. They assemble the first samples
with the fabric they have selected from the marked.
Marketing and Merchandising: Fashion trends are constantly changing; the people in the merchandising
and marketing have a good knowledge of fashion trends, of sales data and the organizations marketing
objectives. Based on the information the marketing department plans the company’s overall direction. It
determines the price, product requirements, and hence the often work with the styling department when
a new product is conceived.
Manufacturing Departments: The production manager is at the head of the manufacturing unit. He is
responsible for scheduling work goals, training of workers, managing all activities to maintain quality in
production. The production manager oversees the work of pattern cutting – from pattern grading,
spreading and marking to cutting, assembling and finishing. With the production manager are the
production assistants who supervise the work at each stage.
Fashion Coordination: They coordinate with the buyer and the production manager. The fashion
coordinator makes sure production schedules are kept, meets buyers goes through specification for
fabrics, colours, designs, and keeps an eye on the quality. When buyers give their own design, the
coordinator helps decide the colour and accessories of the fabric that should be used to suit the design.
They explain the design to the production pattern makers and get samples made. The samples are draped
on the dummy to see in some changes in details or styles are required. Once the sample is finalized, its
pieces are measured precisely. It is the coordinator who suggests how the cloth should be cut to minimize
wastage. The garments are then finally presented for sale.
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9th week (Class 9)
• Merchandising
• Duties and Responsibilities of Merchandiser
• Merchandiser is a data bus/ data station between buyer and
seller
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Lecture -09
Merchandising:
The term merchandising has been derived from the word ‘Merchandise’ which means goods that are
bought or sold.
Merchandising is the planning development and presentation of product lines or identifying the target
market regarding prices, assortments, styling and timing.
Merchandising division is the central co-coordinating points for the line development, design, execution
and delivery of product lines.
The term merchandising may be defined as the person who merchandises the goods specifically for export
purposes.
Garments merchandising means buying raw materials and accessories, producing garments maintaining
the required level and exporting the garments with the scheduled time.
From the above definition, we can say that a person involved in garments merchandising needs a wide
range of knowledge and skills to perform that job.
Duties and Responsibilities of Merchandiser
The main role of a garment Merchandiser is to collect Garment export order (Export L/C). Then produce
the garments and export. If a Merchandiser can the all operation successfully then his/her garment owner
as well as he/she will be benefited. But it’s a matter of truth that to perform those above functions
successfully needs huge knowledge and tremendous effort for a Merchandiser.
Duties and Responsibilities of Merchandiser:

The major duties and responsibilities of a garment merchandiser are as below-
• To procure or collect a garment export order or export L/C

• To estimate time schedule for the export of those garments as per L/C
• To arrange all the materials needed for the garments to manufacture and export
• To monitor the collection of raw materials as per time schedule
• To monitor the quantity and quality of the collected raw materials
• To select a garment factory if needed
• To monitor garment production progress as per time schedule
• To monitor the desired/imposed quality level of the produced garment
• To monitor garment packing instructions
• To monitor banking and shipment arrangements as per time schedule
• To maintain continuous liaison with the buyer or his/her representative if needed
• To maintain continuous liaison with his/her controlling authorities
• To follow up payment collection against garments export as per schedule
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• And finally, To earn profit through garment export execution Merchandising activities vary from
company to company and they usually include the setting of financial goals, budgets and price points.
Creating and following the merchandising plans, planning the line size, fabric purchases, sourcing the
scheduled production and controlling the product flow also forms part of the merchandiser’s job
description.
A good merchandising team is a backbone to the factory
Merchandiser is a data bus/ data station between buyer and seller
He represents as a buyer to the factory.
He represents as a seller to the buyer.
He inspects the goods’ quality as a buyer (i. e. from the buyers’ points of view).
He negotiates the price for the seller.
He looks the deal from the seller points of view.
His object is to satisfy the buyers to progress the future business more.
His aim is to impress the buyer by means of
• Right product
• Right quality
• Right quantity
• Right time
• Undamaged condition
• Right time and action plan
• Right utilization of 5Ms (Man, Machine, Materials, Marketing and Management, )
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Lecture 10
• Fashion designer: Job description

• The Duties & Responsibilities of Being a Fashion Designer
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Lecture: 10
Fashion designer: Job description
Fashion designers work on the design of items of clothing and fashion ranges. Some may focus
completely on one specialist area, such as sportswear, childrenswear, footwear or accessories.
They produce designs for the haute couture, designer ready-to-wear and high street fashion markets.
Developments in technology mean that a design can be on sale as a finished product in the high street
within six weeks.
Depending on their level of responsibility and the company they work for, designers may work to their
own brief or be given a brief to work towards, with specifications relating to colour, fabric and budget.
The main areas of work for fashion designers are:
• High street fashion - this is where most designers work and where garments are mass
manufactured (often in Europe or East Asia). Buying patterns, seasonal trends and celebrity
catwalk influences play a key role in this design process. It is a commercial area and heavily
media led;
• ready-to-wear, also known as prêt-à-porter - where established designers create ready-to-wear
collections, produced in relatively small numbers;
• Haute couture - requires large amounts of time spent on the production of one-off garments for
the catwalk - which are often not practical to wear - usually to endorse other brands and create
a 'look'.
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Typical activities of a Fashion Designer
Tasks depend on the market the designer is working for, but core responsibilities include:
• Creating/visualizing an idea and producing a design by hand or using computer-aided design

(CAD).
• Keeping up to date with emerging fashion trends as well as general trends relating to fabrics,
colours and shapes.
• Planning and developing ranges.
• Working with others in the design team, such as buyers and forecasters, to develop products to
meet a brief.
• Liaising closely with sales, buying and production teams on an ongoing basis to ensure the item
suits the customer, market and price points.
• Understanding design from a technical perspective, i.e. producing patterns, toiles and technical
specifications for designs.
• Sourcing, selecting and buying fabrics, trims and embellishments.
• Adapting existing designs for mass production.
• Developing a pattern that is cut and sewn into sample garments and supervising the making up
of these, including fitting, detailing and adaptations.
• Overseeing production.
• Negotiating with customers and suppliers.
• Managing marketing, finances and other business activities, if working on a self-employed basis.
Experienced designers with larger companies may focus more on the design aspect, with pattern cutters
and machinists preparing sample garments. In smaller companies, these, and other tasks may be part of
the designer's role.
The Duties & Responsibilities of Being a Fashion Designer

Fashion designers must always follow current fashion trends. Everything you wear has been designed by
a fashion designer. That could be a designer for a fashion label or a designer for a department store line.
The entire process from conception to show or wear starts with the fashion designer. However, the
duties and responsibilities of a fashion designer are not limited to items of clothing.
1. Concept and Creation Duties

o Creating sketches of design ideas is how a lot of fashion designers begin the
creation of their garments. It is at this stage a fashion designer puts her visions
into a more tangible format. Experimenting with colour combinations and
complementary garments and accessories first take place at this stage. Then, the
fashion designer needs to find the right materials to bring her sketches to life.
Sewing samples, test garments and eventually the final piece are all part of a
fashion designer's duties.
Supervising Duties and Marketing
o A fashion designer who is more established in the industry is likely to have staff
assisting with his duties. This can mean the duty of a fashion designer extends to
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supervising staff whose role is to sew garments or make patterns. Managing staff
means a fashion designer's duties are divided between creating his line and
managing people. A fashion designer works hard to create a brand that consumers
can recognize. For this reason, marketing the brand or label is just as important as
creating it. Some designers may choose to market themselves while others may
employ the services of a marketing or advertising agency.
Fashion Trends Responsibilities
o Established fashion designers have a big responsibility to their brand as well as

their clientele to remain on top of fashion trends. Customers look to fashion
designers to know what's hot and what's not. Fashion trends generally change
seasonally, so a designer is responsible for keeping on top of those changes and
more importantly having a good understanding of future trends. This means a
fashion designer needs to attend fashion shows at a national and international
level, understand what is important to their target clientele and keep up to date
with any developments in the fashion and entertainment industries. In addition,
the fashion designer must keep a close eye on known trendsetters such as movie
stars, socialites and musicians.
Business Responsibilities
o To be a successful fashion designer, you cannot solely rely on creative talents.

There is a hard-nosed business behind the chic exterior of the fashion world. A
fashion designer is responsible for managing her label as a business. This could
mean securing premises for retail stores or manufacturing, negotiating deals with
suppliers or retailers or finding investors to fund the label and anything in
between. Whether a fashion designer has the right business acumen can determine
her level of success in the industry.
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Lecture-11
Buyer Enquiry
11th week (Class 08)
• Buyer enquiry
• Global products of Bangladesh
Buyer Enquiry: Buyer enquiry is a set of queries of finding a company profile (Industry/factory/company
location, capacity, product, types of product, machinery details, product price, terms and conditions
etc.).
➢ HOW A BUYER DOES GETS INFORMATION?
Name of the suppliers:
An international buyer generally collects information from the following sources
1. Different embassies working his country

2. News media
3. Yellow page of the export promotion bureau
4. Own website of the company
5. Ministry of Commerce and industries
6. Foreign trade fair in his country
7. From other buyers, other resources persons like Merchandisers, Fashion Designers, production
people
8. Different websites of internet
9. By facebook, twitter and other social media
10. By different types of training, get together, workshops, etc.
➢ HOW A BUYER DOES MAKES ENQUIRY?

Generally, a buyer makes an enquiry as follows:
1. First s/he checks the Company profile (The details about machinery, products, workers, existing
buyers, skills, reputation, bonded warehouse, etc.) of the factory.
2. Previous records of works, the rate of success
3. She/he checks compliance and Code of contact of the company with the labour law of the country.
4. Safety measures of the workers, security procedure of the products
5. Proper authorization of the company from the government of the country
6. Negotiating Bank Support
60 | P a g e
7. Facility of the power supply and alternating power supply
8. Strong and weak points, etc.
➢ In the final round if the buyer gets satisfaction above study then s/he sends an enquiry paper of
4 parts where s/he asks the supplier to give a price quotation for the asking products as per the
described requirement attached there. In the paper the following components are available
1. Shipment date and Quantity
2. Product details of fabrication
3. Size chart of the product manufacturing
4. Technical sheet for sewing instruction
5. Accessories and print/embroidery options
6. Payment terms of cost
7. Wash, lab test and another service requirement
8. Packing details and assortment (proportion of packing in each carton), etc.
After receiving the enquiry, the company makes a costing considering all the aspects and informs the
buyer about the price of the asking product (which is call Price quotation). Sometimes the buyer
makes a negotiation to reduce the price and makes a confirmation to give the order for the asking
product.
61 | P a g e
Lecture 12
62 | P a g e
12th week (Class 12)
• Garments manufacturing flow chart

Garments manufacturing flow chart
Order confirms
Pattern making
1st sample make
Sample fabric & accessories order
Pattern making with buyer comments
Counter sample makes
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Bulk fabric & accessories order
Final pattern making
Pattern grading
Marker making
Bulk fabric & accessories receive
Fabric Spreading
Cutting
Numbering
Bundling
Racking / Sewing room input
Sewing
64 | P a g e
In-line inspection
Finishing room checking/inspection
Measurement checking
Folding
Packing
Carton
Final inspection
Shipment
65 | P a g e
66 | P a g e

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SHANTO-MARIAM UNIVERSITY OF CREATIVE

INTRODUCTION TO FASHION & APPAREL INDUSTRIES

Module Title: Introduction to Fashion & Apparel Industries

Module Code: AMM1201

Year of study: 1st Year, 2nd semester,

Assessment Method: Continuous Assessment

1. Garment Technology for Fashion Designers by Gerry Cooklin

• Accurate demonstration samples

Week-01 History of Fashion and apparel industries, Bangladesh

Week-02 What is the direct Contribution of RMG sector of Bangladesh?

Week-03 Impact of fashion and apparel industries to the economy of

Week-04 Present and future challenges of the RMG sector of Bangladesh

Week-05 Brands/Buyers working with Bangladeshi fashion & apparel industries

Week-06 Awards and achievements of Bangladeshi Fashion and apparels industries

Week-07 Management Hierarchy of an Apparel industry

Week-8 Functions of different departments and different people

Week 9 Duties and responsibilities of a Merchandiser

Week10 Duties and responsibilities of a Fashion Designer

Week 11 Garments buyers’ inquiry

Week 12 Garments manufacturing flowchart

Top 10 knitwear Exports from Bangladesh, FY2014-2015

Source: Export Promotion Bureau, Bangladesh

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT ON EXPORT OF RMG AND

TOTAL EXPORT OF BANGLADESH

Data Source Export Promotion Bureau, Compiled by BGMEA

VALUE OF TOTAL APPAREL EXPORT

Fiscal Year Basis

2004-2005 3598.20 2819.47 6417.67

2007-2008 5167.28 5532.52 10699.80

2008-2009 5918.51 6429.26 12347.77

2009-2010 6013.43 6483.29 12496.72

2010-2011 8432.40 9482.06 17914.46

2011-2012 9603.34 9486.39 19089.73

2012-2013 11039.85 10475.88 21515.73

2014-2015 13064.61 12426.79 25491.40

2015-2016 14738.74 13355.42 28094.16

2016-2017 14392.59 13757.25 28149.84

2017-2018 15426.25 15188.51 30614.76

Data Source Export Promotion Bureau Compiled by BGMEA

VALUE OF TOTAL APPAREL EXPORT

The calendar Year Basis

Data Source Export Promotion Bureau Compiled by BGMEA

(VALUE IN MN. US$)

Bangladesh's RMG Export to World 2015 to 2017

The value in Million US$

Woven Knit Total

Source: EPB, Compiled by RDTI Cell, BGMEA

Bangladesh's RMG Export to World (FY 14-15, FY15-16 & FY16-17)

The value in Million US$

Source: EPB, Compiled by RDTI Cell, BGMEA

BANGLADESH'S RMG EXPORTS TO WORLD, FY 2017-18 & 2018-19

The value in Million US$

BANGLADESH'S RMG EXPORTS TO WORLD, FY 2016-17 & 2017-18

The value in Million US$

What is the direct Contribution of RMG sector of Bangladesh?

Impact of fashion and apparel industries to the economy of Bangladesh

Describe the Contribution of RMG sector in the economic development of

What is the direct Contribution of RMG sector of Bangladesh?

Write the contribution of RMG sector of Bangladesh for its socio-economic

Present Situation of RMG Sector in Bangladesh

Q. What is the Opportunity of RMG sector in Bangladesh?

The opportunity of RMG Sector in Bangladesh:

1. Vast labour force,