SUPPLIES:
which way the fabric should face.
Exterior fabric:
1/2 yard fabric (quilt weight or home decor/can-
vas)
scraps of vinyl for tassel and side connectors
Lining fabric:
1/2 yard quilt weight cotton
Interfacing:
1/2 yard fusible fleece
2 yards fusible woven interfacing
Notions and supplies:
(1) 1” rectangle slide
(2) 1” swivel clips
(2) 1” D-ring or triangle rings
(1) 1/2” D-ring (for tassel)
(1) 18mm magnetic snap
(1) 7” zipper (will be cut down to 6.5”)
30” of piping (optional)
PLEASE READ ENTIRE PATTERN BEFORE
STARTING.
A note about interfacing: You are free to substi-
tute the woven interfacing for any lightweight
fusible interfacing however, I do recommend us-
ing a woven (ex. SF101) on all exterior pieces to
prevent wrinkles. You may substitute the fleece
with foam for the exterior pieces if you wish but
it will make the side panels slightly more chal-
lenging to sew on. Depending on your machine’s
capabilities, you may want to trim the seam al-
lowance from your fusible fleece.
SEWING TIPS:
Backstitching: Backstitching is sewing in
forward and reverse over the same set of stitches
to lock them at the end of a line of sewing.
WST/WS: an abbreviation that stands for Wrong
Side Together OR Wrong Side which indicates
which way the fabric should face.
RST/RS: an abbreviation that stands for Right
2
Side Together OR Right Side which indicates
Basting Stitch: Sewing using a longer stitch
length. I usually use a stitch length of 4.
Seam Allowance: Seam allowance is always
3/8 inch unless specified otherwise. Zipper instal-
lation seam allowance is usually 1/4 inch when
using a zipper foot attachment. All seam
allowances are included in pattern pieces.
PATTERN PIECES:
Print out pattern pieces using Adobe Reader on
regular 8.5 x 11 size paper with scaling set to
“none” or “100%”. Check 1-inch test square be-
fore cutting pattern.
CUTTING:
From FLAP A, cut on the fold:
(1) Exterior fabric
(1) Lining fabric
(2) Fusible woven interfacing
(1) Fusible fleece
From SIDE GUSSET B, cut:
(2) Exterior fabric
(2) Lining fabric
(4) Fusible woven interfacing
(2) Fusible fleece
From BODY C, cut dimensions (8.5” W x 8 1/8” H)
OR on the fold:
(2) Exterior fabric
(2) Lining fabric
(4) Fusible woven interfacing
(2) Fusible fleece
From ZIPPER POCKET D, cut dimensions (7.75” W
x 7” H) OR on the fold:
(2) Lining fabric
(2) Fusible woven interfacing
From D-RING CONNECTOR, cut dimensions (2” W
x 4” H):
(2) Exterior fabric
(2) Fusible woven interfacing (if using fabric)
For ADJUSTABLE STRAP - single fabric option, cut
dimensions (4” H x 52”L or length of choice):
(1) Exterior fabric

For ADJUSTABLE STRAP - contrasting fabric op-

tion, cut dimensions (2.25” H x 52”L or length of
choice):
(2) Exterior fabric (1 of each contrasting fabric)

For BOTH strap options, cut (1) Fusible woven

interfacing 4” H x 52”L or length of choice

OPTIONAL: 2. Using a ruler and rotary cutter, cut lines every

1/8”, starting from the bottom edge of the TAS-
For TASSEL, cut (1) vinyl/faux leather (4” W x 3.5” SEL and stopping at the line your drew in step 1.
H)

For TASSEL STRAP, cut (1) vinyl/faux leather (1/2”

W x 4” H)

INTERFACING:
If you are making the contrasting fabric ADJUST-
ABLE STRAP, set aside the fabric and interfacing
pieces for now. 3. Take your TASSEL STRAP and cut it in half
so you have 2 pieces 1/2” W x 2” H. Take one
For ALL exterior and lining pieces, fuse matching piece and slip it through your D-ring and wrap it
woven interfacing to WS (including strap if you around the straight edge. Baste or glue the ends
are making the single fabric option) of the strap together.
If you wish, trim seam allowance from all fusible
fleece pieces and then fuse to WS of Exterior
BODY A pieces, Exterior SIDE GUSSET B pieces,
and FLAP lining piece.

EXTERIOR ASSEMBLY:

4. Take your remaining TASSEL STRAP piece, cut

off 1/8” along the longer 2” side (this will make
it fit nicer inside the rounded part of your D-ring
) and then wrap it around the curved part of
your D-ring and baste or glue the ends in place.
1. Take your TASSEL piece and your TASSEL
STRAP piece as well as your 1/2” D-ring. Draw a
line along the longer edge of your TASSEL on the
WS, 1” from the top edge.
3

5. Glue the TASSEL STRAP attached to the curved
part of your D-ring to the top right side of your
TASSEL piece on the WS as pictured above.
6. Apply glue to the top portion of your TASSEL
on the WS and roll the TASSEL piece to the left
until it’s completely rolled.
7. If you wish, add a rivet to the top portion of
your tassel however this is not necessary if you
used a strong glue.
4
8. Place your FLAP Exterior piece on your work
surface RS up and baste the tassel with 1/4”
seam allowance to the bottom centre as pictured
above with the tassel WS up and pointing to-
wards the top straight edge of your FLAP.
9. Place your FLAP Lining piece (the bottom
piece with the fusible fleece) on your work sur-
face and using FLAP A pattern piece as a guide,
transfer the location of your magnetic snap on
the WS of your FLAP.
10. Place your magnetic snap washer over the
mark and then mark the location of your prong’s
on the WS of your FLAP.
 your seam. (I decided to topstitch twice!)

11. Carefully cut out the prong marks. Apply fray

check to the holes. Push the prongs of male half
of your magnetic snap through the hole from
the RS of your FLAP. Place a scrap of Peltex over
the prongs and then place your washer. Spread
prongs to secure. You may want to protect the
Exterior FLAP piece from the metal prongs by
fusing a piece of interfacing or fleece over the
prongs.
14. Take one of your BODY C Exterior pieces and
lay on your work surface RS up. Use BODY C pat-
tern piece as a guide and transfer the location
of your magnetic snap on the RS of your BODY C
exterior piece. (PLEASE NOTE, I didn’t want to cut
on the fold so I have printed 2 copies of BODY C
and taped them together at the fold line)

12. Pin both FLAP pieces RST and sew together

along the sides and bottom curve, leaving the
top edge open. Make sure you do not sew the
15. Follow steps 10-11 to install the FEMALE half
tassel fringe into the seam!! Trim seam allow-
of your magnetic snap. It should look as pictured
ance.
above when you are done.

16. Pin both BODY C Exterior pieces RST along

13. Turn your FLAP RS out via the opening you the bottom edge. Sew together and press seam
left at the top. Press your seams flat. Topstitch open.
5
 other longer side until you have what is pictured.

17. Topstitch along both sides of the bottom 20. Take your D-RING CONNECTORS and draw a
seam. horizontal line through the centre on the WS. If
you are using fabric for your D-RING CONNEC-
TORS, press in both halves towards the centre
line.

18. Before basting your piping to the sides of

your assembled BODY panels, trim the tape sec-
tion of the piping to 3/8”. (Do not include the
piping cord when measuring the width). You will 21. If using vinyl/faux leather for your D-RING
baste the piping along the longer side of the CONNECTORS, sew in both halves towards the
assembled BODY panels. Curve the piping out- centre line with a 1/8” seam allowance from the
wards 1/2” from the top edge of one side, baste centre. Repeat for 2nd D-RING CONNECTOR.
the raw edge of the piping along the entire edge
with 1/4” seam allowance and then curve the pip-
ing outwards again 1/2” from the bottom edge.

22. Pass one D-RING CONNECTOR through your

D-ring (I am using a triangle ring) and fold in
both raw ends towards each other to form a
strap loop. The raw ends will be on the WS of
this loop. Clip to hold in place.

19. Repeat step 18 to baste the piping to the

6
23. Place a strip of double-sided tape on the WS
of the D-RING CONNECTOR. Repeat steps 21-23 to
prepare your second D-RING CONNECTOR.

26. Sew the D-RING CONNECTOR to the SIDE

GUSSET piece using the white dashed stitch lines
pictured above as a guide.

24. Fold your SIDE GUSSET B in half vertically

WST and mark the top and bottom centre on the
RS. Repeat for your second SIDE GUSSET B piece.
27. Repeat steps 25-26 for second D-RING CON-
NECTOR and SIDE GUSSET B. Add rivets if you
wish.

28. Pin/Clip the bottom centre mark of one SIDE

25. Peel the paper backing from one D-RING GUSSET to the seam (which is the bottom centre)
CONNECTOR and place glue side down on the RS of your assembled BODY panels RST.
of one SIDE GUSSET B piece. It should be cen-
tered and the top edge of the D-RING CONNEC-
TOR strap should be 1.25” from the top edge as
pictured above.

7
29. Then pin/clip the top edges of your SIDE
GUSSET to the top edges of your assembled
BODY panels RST as pictured above.
30. Pin/clip the rest of the SIDE GUSSET to the
BODY panels between the clips from step 29.
31. Sew the SIDE GUSSET to the BODY panels.
Sew with the SIDE GUSSET facing up, leave the
needle in the down position so your fabric layers
don’t separate when you pause to remove a pin/
clip and go slowly. Notch or trim your seam al-
lowance along the curve.
8
32. Turn your bag RS out and examine your pip-
ing. If you’re not happy with your piping in cer-
tain areas, simply turn it WS out again and sew
again until you’re happy with your piping.
33. Repeat steps 28-32 to attach second SIDE
GUSSET to your assembled BODY panels.
34. Pin/clip your FLAP to the top edge of one
longer edge of your assembled exterior RST.
The bottom of your flap with the magnetic snap
should be facing up and make sure you have
clipped to the longer edge of the body panel
WITHOUT the magnetic snap. Baste the flap in
place. Set aside your assembled exterior for now.
INTERIOR ASSEMBLY:

35. Take both ZIPPER POCKET D pieces and press

1/2” of the bottom edge (7.75” W) towards the 38. Pull the ZIPPER POCKET D lining piece to-
WS. wards the WS of the BODY lining piece through
the opening in the rectangle. Press the rect-
angle’s seams carefully so they are nice and flat
and you’ve got a nice opening for your zipper
pocket.

36. On the WS of one ZIPPER POCKET D piece,

draw a rectangle 1” from the top edge (WITHOUT
the folded edge!) that is 6.5” W x 3/8” H and
centered. Pin that ZIPPER POCKET D piece to 39. Place your zipper RS up inside the rectangle
one of your BODY C Lining piece, 1/2” from the opening and pin/glue in place. Then sew the
top edge. Sew around the rectangle you drew to zipper in place by sewing around the rectangle
sew the ZIPPER POCKET piece to the BODY lining opening with 1/8” seam allowance.
piece.

37. Draw a horizontal line through the centre of

the rectangle stopping 1/2” from each end. Draw
diagonal lines from that centre line to each of
the 4 corners. Carefully cut out those lines mak-
ing sure you come as close to the 4 corners as 40. Pin your second ZIPPER POCKET D lining
possible without cutting any stitches.
9
piece to the attached lining piece RST mak- FINAL ASSEMBLY:
ing sure both folded edges are at the bottom.
Use the dashed lines in photo above as a guide
and sew the sides and top edges of the ZIPPER
POCKET lining pieces together, leaving the folded
edges at the bottom OPEN.

44. Place your assembled exterior shell inside

41. Pin both BODY C lining panels together along
the bottom edge and sew together as you did for
the BODY C exterior panels in steps 16-17.
your assembled lining shell RST and pin/clip
around the top edge. Make sure that your 4 side
seams are perfectly aligned.

42. Fold your SIDE GUSSET B lining pieces in half 45. Sew the exterior and lining shells together
vertically RST and mark the bottom centre on the around the top edge then trim away the seam
WS for both. Then sew both SIDE GUSSET B lin- allowance to remove bulk from the 4 side seams.
ing pieces to the assembled BODY lining pieces
following steps 28-31. Your assembled lining
shell should look as pictured above.

46. Reach in through the opening in your zipper

43. IMPORTANT: Open up your zipper pocket’s pocket and turn your bag RS out.
zipper completely!

10
 STRAP ASSEMBLY:
If you are making the single fabric strap option,
skip ahead to step 53.

50. If you are making the adustable strap with

contrasting fabric option, pin both adjustable
47. Sew the opening in your zipper pocket lining strap pieces RST along the entire length. Sew
closed. together along the longer side with 1/4” seam
allowance.

51. Press seam open.

48. Tuck your lining into your exterior shell and
press the seams at the top opening.

52. You can now fuse the interfacing to the WS

of your adjustable strap.

49. Topstitch the top opening of your bag.

53. For BOTH strap options, fold in 1/2” of each

11
shorter end towards the WS and press.

58. Slip one end of your strap through the rect-

54. Fold your entire strap in half WST and press
to create a centre crease.
angle slide, wrap the strap around the middle
bar and fold onto itself and sew in place. I sew a
square shape to make it more secure. If you are
making a contrasting strap, make sure you have
the fabric of your choice as the WS/RS.

55. Open up the strap and fold in both halves

towards the centre crease and press.

59. To complete your strap, pass the end of the

strap without the slide through the D-ring of one
swivel, then back through the slide. Then pass
that same end through the D-ring of the other
swivel, wrap it around and sew in place WST.
56. Fold strap in half again along original crease
and press again.

57. Sew the strap all the way around with 1/8”
seam allowance.

12
 You’re Done!
I’d love to see your creations, make sure to use #SweetPeaSaddleBag when
you share.
COPYRIGHT AND LICENSING INFORMATION
©2016 Blue Calla Creations. All Rights Reserved. Written permission is required to copy and or
distribute copies of this pattern or instructions. Celine is happy to allow products made from this
pattern by a home sewer to be sold. Please include a credit to all your online listings stating that
your item is made from a Blue Calla Creations pattern. A link to my Etsy pattern shop would be
appreciated. Patterns must be purchased retail and the items must be made by one person, in
their home. Mass Production is strictly prohibited and will result in a change to these policies.

CONTACT:
Bag and Purse Shop: http://bluecalla.etsy.com
Pattern Shop: http://bluecallapatterns.com
E-mail: bluecallacreations@gmail.com
Follow me on instagram! @bluecallacreations
Join my Blue Calla Patterns sewing group at:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/820874054675832/
 1 inch
square

Sweet Pea Saddle Bag Sweet Pea Saddle Bag

FLAP A D-ring Connector (2” W x 4” H)
Cut 2 Exterior fabric
Cut 1 Exterior fabric Cut 2 Fusible woven interfacing (if
using fabric)
Cut 1 Lining fabric
Cut 2 Fusible woven interfacing

FOLD
Cut 1 Fusible fleece

magnetic snap
 1 inch
square

Sweet Pea Saddle Bag

SIDE GUSSET B
Cut 2 Exterior fabric
Cut 2 Lining fabric
Cut 4 Fusible woven interfacing
Cut 2 Fusible fleece
 1 inch
square
Sweet Pea Saddle Bag
BODY C (8.5 “ W x 8 1/8” H)
Cut 2 Exterior fabric on fold
Cut 2 Lining fabric on fold
Cut 4 Fusible woven interfacing on fold
Cut 2 Fusible fleece on fold

magnetic snap
FOLD
 square
1 inch
Sweet Pea Saddle Bag
ZIPPER POCKET D (7.75” W x 7” H)
Cut 2 Lining fabric
Cut 2 Fusible woven interfacing