TABLE OF CONTENTS

SL.NO CONTENTS PAGE NO

1. Introduction

2. Origin/history

3. Types of Meenakari

4. Meenakari jewellery
patterns

5. Trend

6. Process of making
meenakari jewellery

7. Brands that sell

meenakari jewellery

8. Harvard referencing
 MEENAKARI JEWELRY

1.INTRODUCTION

The enamelling work done on any metal surface is called as meenakari art. The
art of decorating the metal surface by fusing the minerals and treated
substances to it is called as enamelling. The coloured stones and glass are
crushed into fine powder and prepared for enamelling. When the word
‘meenakari’ is split into two according to their meaning, it becomes ‘Meena’ and
‘kari’. The word ‘meena’ stands for ‘enamel’ and the word ‘kari’ stands for ‘art’.
Thus, the word ‘meenakari’ means ‘art of enamelling’. The art of Meenakari has
its roots to Persia. In Persian language ‘meena’ word stands for ‘heaven’, ‘the
azure colour of heaven’. The craftsmen of Iran in Sassanid era invented this
art.

Picture 1. source: dsource.com picture2. Source: pinterest.com

Picture 3: meenakari kundan bangle. Picture4. Source: pinterest.com

Source:South Indianjewels.com
2.ORIGIN/HISTORY

In the 16th century in Jaipur, Raja Man Singh of Mewar is recognized as the
patron of the meenakari art, because of his efforts this art received widespread
acclaim from the public. As highly talented craftsmen from Lahore arrived in
Jaipur, the city became the hub of meenakari art. The skill of the artisans
quickly established the location as a leading hub for designing meenakari.
Since ages, gold has been a preferred metal for meenakari art as it has the
ability to hold the enamel in a better manner. It also enhances the lustre of the
art while bringing out the colours of the enamels beautifully.

Initially meenakari work was often unnoticed as this work was done on the
backside of the fabulous stone studded kundan jewellery. This is one of the
ancient arts found in history. This was spread to India and other countries by
Mongols. Meenakari work jewellery is a traditional Indian jewellery that features
brilliantly coloured designs of classic Indian motifs, such as flowers, birds, and
leaves, placed on top of the metal. The skilled Indian artisans who perform the
enamelling use age-old methods that have been refined over many years.

The primary hub of meenakari is Jaipur. The art of enameling originated in

Jaipur and is dominated by traditional Mughal colors like red, green, and white.
The deep, ruby red shade employed here is very popular. For their silver
meenakari, Nathdwara, Bikaner, and Udaipur are also well-known.

Picture 4. Source:phuljhadi.com Picture 5. source: phuljhadi.com

Picrture 6. Source: southjewellery.com Picture 7. Source: google.com

3.TYPES OF MEENAKARI

There is no other jewellery style like meenakari in the world. It features intricate
artwork and offers ornaments for every occasion, from royal and classic
patterns to stylish contemporary ornaments. However, with skilled artisans and
Meenakars showcasing their abundance of talent and inventiveness, the age-
old art has developed over time. Different types of Meenakari jewellery are
made using combinations of colours and patterns to define specific Meenakari
designs.

Main centres of meenakari art in India;

Meenakari art form is mainly focused in;
• Silver meenakari: Nathdwara, Bikaner, Udaipur
• Glass meenakari: Pratapgarh
• Gulab meenakari: Varanasi
Other area include Delhi, Punjab& Lucknow

EK RANGH KHULA MEENA

Enameling is done using a single transparent color in the Ek Rang Khul Meena
technique. A stunning design is produced when the engraved sections are filled
with a single enamel, revealing the outline of the gold color and displaying the
figural features.

Picture8 source: mygoldguide.in

PANCH RANG MEENA

The enamels used for this include Safed, an opaque white, Fakhtai, an opaque
light blue, Fakhta, a dove, Khula Nila, a transparent dark blue, and Khula Sabz,
an opaque green.

Picture9-Panch Rang Meena. Source: pinterest.com

GULABI MEENA
It makes use of pink enamel made with Gulab (rose). In the Varanasi region,
this variety of Meenakari is very common. An opaque white background is
painted over the transparent pink enamel. Colors of ground, such as Lal zamin-
transparent red ground, Sabz zamin-transparent green ground, and Nil zamin-
transparent blue ground, are employed when a single transparent enamel is
used to fill the ground surrounding an opaque figure. This will create contrast
and draw attention to the issue.

The majority of the design's flowers are painted in pink enamel. Paintings in the
"champleve" style are used on objects other than flowers. Gulabi Mina is an
amalgam of enameling techniques. Depending on its complexity, a work of art
may take anywhere from one month to six months to complete.

As Persian craftsmen visited the palace of Avadh in Lucknow, the local artisans
learned the ropes straight from the source. The magnificent jeweler produced
from the effervescent pink colour of meenakari gained undeniable appeal
among people with impeccable taste in design and style from its birth in the
17th century until the 20th century, when pink enamel became treasured
throughout the nation. Princes and other members of the aristocracy prized it
highly, and the art form continues to enchant admirers because it displays
wealth and royalty. The application of pink over white enamel distinguishes the
pink meenakari.

Picture 10-Gulab meena. Source: manjulikapramod.com

Picture 11. Source: thediamondtalk.in

BANDH MEENA KAKA
This approach uses an opaque cartouche or outline. Cartouche of opaque
enamel surrounds a transparent color.

3.MEENAKARI JEWELLERY PATTERNS

Meenakari gemstones come in an unlimited variety of patterns. But among the
most common patterns to be found in Meenakarian bridal jewelry are a variety
of paintings, Mughal floral patterns, paisley sweats, depictions of gods and
goddesses, leaves, flowers, and fish, and patterns inspired by Mughal
structures. The price of a Meenakari piece of jewelry increases with the
complexity of the design. Always keep an eye on Meenakari's sleeker, more
polished design before buying the jewelry kit.

Meenakari jewelry stands out beyond all other jewelry and is regarded as the
epitome of Indian traditional wedding fashion.
Meanakari jewelry requires as much research and planning as any other type
of bridal jewelry investment.

Meenakari Jewelry has now established itself as a leading brand of Rajasthani

jewelry, hence the process used to make Rajasthani wedding jewelry has taken
on significance.

4.TREND
Meenakari can be seen on the Rakdhi, the massive Aarsi ring, the Mughal-style
bajuband, the wedding Chura, the famed Aad bands, the hottest trendsetter -
Haath Phool, and the regal Rani hair.

Many of us are likewise accustomed to praising our favorite actresses. We

would have missed the fact that Meena Kari Jewelry is popular on our television
programs and also in the film industry.

Deepika Padukone, Aishwarya Rai, Himanshi Khurana, and many other well-
known figures come to mind. We love the jewelry even more because they not
only wear it but also show off our ancestry.
This generation is passionate in handicrafts, which makes them proud of their
roots. And so many people want to wear it.
Traditional attire makes a woman admire herself since it exudes positivity,
energy, and ambition. Their personalities and our heritage have given us
everything we've ever wanted, making them feel better about themselves.

Picture12. Source google.com

 Picture 14. Source: google.com

Picture 13. Source: google.com

Deepika Padukone ‘Padmaavat’ Choker

As copies of the red meenakari choker necklace worn by Rani Padmaavati
became widely available, countless brides wore one on their wedding day. The
straightforward choker necklace is a fantastic option for bridal attire and family
weddings.

Picture 15. Source: pinterest.com

5. PROCESS OF MAKING MEENAKARI JEWELERY

The process is a very complex one. Every single piece of Meena passes
through quite a few expert hands, before it is actually completed. The
procedure is a long and difficult, requiring highly skilled craftsmen.
First a metal is engraved with intricate detailing, and then the engravings are
filled with enamel colors.

Picture 16-The engaved piece in which color have to be applied. Source: dsource.in

The engraved piece is filled with collors using metal spoke.

Picture 17. Source: dsource.in picture 18. Source: dsource.in

Picture 19. Source: dsource.in

 Picture 20-design being stenciled with stains on platter.
Source: dsource.in
The meena is then put into a furnace, where the colours are fused, solidified,
and made to seem consistent on the surface. After that, the surface is gently
rubbed with a mixture of lemon and tamarind to bring out the brilliance of each
colour.

Picture 21. Source: dsource.in picture 22. Source: dsource.in picture23. Source: dsource.in

picture 24. Source: dsource.in picture 25. Source: dsource.in picture 26. Source: dsource.in

The jewellery piece being scrubbed with a filer to enhance the gold outline of
the pattern and before sending it to the nest karigar for stone setting they are
treated in mild acid for sheen.
.
Metal oxides blended with a tint of finely powdered glass are the main
ingredients of enamel colours. Yellow is produced by utilising potash chromate,
violet by using manganese carbonate, green by using copper oxide, blue by
using cobalt oxide, brown by using red oxide, and black by using manganese,
iron, and cobalt. The most difficult colour to produce is bright red. The colours
are applied on the metal as per their level of hardness keeping the hardest as
the first. Before the application of enamel, it is necessary to clean the surface
of the ornament. The combinations are burnt in the kiln at a temperature of
roughly 850 degrees Celsius to achieve the real hues.

Picture 27. Source: dsource.in picture 28. Source: dsource.in picture 29. Source: dsource.in

The jewellery piece with complete meenakari is send for stone setting.

Picture 30. source: dsource.in picture 31. Source:dsource.in

Picture 32. Source:dsource.in picture 33. Source: dsource.in

6.BRANDS THAT SELL MEENAKARI JEWELRY
1.Sunita Shekhawat
Her eponymous brand is all about creating pieces that are everlasting. What’s
interesting about her work is that she experiments with colours other than the
traditional reds, greens, and blues, so you will find pieces in powder blue, lime
green, and pink as well. Inspired by the glorious architecture of Rajasthan,
there is a piece for every occasion.

Picture 35-40 source: sunitashekhawat.com

2.Ankit Khullar
creative director of Purab Paschim, has a back-to-the-roots approach. Seeking
inspiration from motifs dating back to the Mughal period and even using
Swarovski crystals as part of his designs, expect beautifully coloured pieces in
whites, greens, and blues.

Picture 41,42, source: ankitkullar.com

3. Sangeeta Boochras jewelery
If you like silver, then Boochra‘s work will interest you. Even though the base
metal might change, the intricately done meenakari puts it in the same league
as that of other fine jewellery brands. From the timaniyas and haathphools to
chandbaalis, there is hardly a piece of jewellery you won’t find here. The
heritage brand established in 1897 operates out of Jaipur.

Pictures 43-47 image source: sangeetabochera.com

4.House of Surana
For years it has been known for their ability to blend art with jewellery, and this
has attracted a number of royals as patrons. Led by Pankaj Surana, its creative
director, House of Surana is one of the few heritage brands in India that has
stayed loyal to their signature with a unique blend of beautifully crafted kundan
and meenakari pieces. These are further paired with a complex array of
precious stones set well in a medley of colours.

Picture 48.49 image source: houseofsurrana.com

5. Raniwala
For Abhishek and Abhiyant Raniwala, who hail from a family of jewellers, it is
all about taking tradition further. So they invested their passion for jewellery into
polki, jadau, and meenakari, and stunning chokers, cuffs, rings, and earrings
from the brand are a testament to their prowess. What makes their creations
stand out is how they play with tradition while engaging in a very contemporary
colour scheme of blush pinks and powder blues.

Picture 50,51 image courtesy: raniwalajewellery.com

Harvard referencing

neeru (2016). Introduction. [online] D’Source. Available at:

https://www.dsource.in/resource/kundan-meenakari-jewellery-
jaipur/introduction [Accessed 20 Dec. 2022].

neeru (2016). Introduction. [online] D’Source. Available at:

https://www.dsource.in/resource/kundan-meenakari-jewellery-
jaipur/introduction.

www.culturalindia.net. (n.d.). Meenakari Jewelry Is The Pride Of Our Country!

Here Is Why Every Bride Drools Over These Ornaments! [online] Available at:
https://www.culturalindia.net/jewellery/types/meenakari.html.

neeru (2016). Making Process. [online] D’Source. Available at:

https://dsource.in/resource/kundan-meenakari-jewellery-jaipur/making-
process [Accessed 20 Dec. 2022].

www.weddingwire.in. (n.d.). Everything You Need to Know About the

Traditional Meenakari Jewellery and How to Invest in It. [online] Available at:
https://www.weddingwire.in/wedding-tips/meenakari-jewellery--c3765.

Anon, (n.d.). Rajasthani Meenakari Jewellery: Material, Tool, and Process –

Swadesi. [online] Available at: https://swadesi.org/meenakari-jewellery/
[Accessed 20 Dec. 2022].