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Table of contents
Part V: LEADING.
15. Leadership.
Product details
• Publisher : CENGAGE Learning (January 1, 2017)
• ISBN-10 : 1337798843
• ISBN-13 : 978-1337798846
Substitute half a pint of good melted butter for the gravy, and add
to it the same seasonings as above. A double quantity of these
sauces will be needed when they are required to cover a large fish;
in that case they should be thick enough to adhere to it well. Melted
butter, 1/2 pint; seasoning of salt and pepper, or cayenne; minced
parsley, 2 to 3 teaspoonsful; juice, 1 small lemon.
For Cold Maître d’Hôtel Sauce, see Chapter VI.
THE LADY’S SAUCE.
(For Fish.)
Pound to a very smooth paste the inside coral of a lobster with a
small slice of butter, and some cayenne; rub it through a hair-sieve,
gather it together, and mix it very smoothly with from half to three-
quarters of a pint of sauce tournée or of cream fish-sauce, previously
well seasoned with cayenne and salt, and moderately with pounded
mace; bring it to the point of boiling only; stir in quickly, but gradually,
a tablespoonful of strained lemon-juice, and serve it very hot. When
neither cream nor gravy is at hand, substitute rich melted butter
mixed with a dessertspoonful or two of essence of anchovies, and
well seasoned. The fine colour of the coral will be destroyed by
boiling. This sauce, which the French call Sauce à l’Aurore, may be
served with brill, boiled soles, gray mullet, and some few other kinds
of fish: it is quickly made when the lobster butter of Chapter VI. is in
the house.
Coral of lobster, pounded; cream sauce, or sauce tournée
(thickened pale veal gravy), 1/2 to 3/4 pint; lemon-juice, 1
tablespoonful; salt, cayenne, and mace, as needed. Or: rich melted
butter, instead of other sauce; essence of anchovies, 2
dessertspoonsful; other seasoning, as above.
Obs.—The proportion of spices here must, of course, depend on
the flavouring which the gravy or sauce may already have received.
GENEVESE SAUCE, OR SAUCE GÉNÉVOISE.
Cut into dice three ounces of the lean of a well-flavoured ham, and
put them with half a small carrot, four cloves, a blade of mace, two or
three very small sprigs of lemon thyme and of parsley, and rather
more than an ounce of butter, into a stewpan; just simmer them from
three-quarters of an hour to a whole hour, then stir in a teaspoonful
of flour; continue the slow stewing for about five minutes, and pour in
by degrees a pint of good boiling veal gravy, and let the sauce again
simmer softly for nearly an hour. Strain it off, heat it in a clean
saucepan, and when it boils, stir in a wineglassful and a half of good
sherry or Madeira, two tablespoonsful of lemon-juice, some cayenne,
a little salt if needed, and a small tablespoonful of flour very smoothly
mixed with two ounces of butter. Give the whole a boil after the
thickening is added, pour a portion of the sauce over the fish (it is
served principally with salmon and trout), and send the remainder
very hot to table in a tureen.
Lean of ham, 3 oz.; 1/2 small carrot; 4 to 6 cloves; mace, 1 large
blade; thyme and parsley, 3 or 4 small sprigs of each; butter, 1 to 1-
1/2 oz.: 50 to 60 minutes. Veal gravy, 1 pint: 3/4 to 1 hour. Sherry or
Madeira, 1-1/2 glassful; lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonsful; seasoning of
cayenne and salt; flour, 1 tablespoonful; butter, 2 oz.: 1 minute.
Obs.—A teaspoonful or more of essence of anchovies is usually
added to the sauce, though it is scarcely required.
SAUCE ROBERT.
Cut four or five large onions into small dice, and brown them in a
stewpan, with three ounces of butter and a dessertspoonful of flour.
When of a deep yellow brown, pour to them half a pint of beef or of
veal gravy, and let them simmer for fifteen minutes; skim the sauce,
add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and at the moment of serving,
mix a dessertspoonful of made mustard with it.
Large onions, 4 or 5; butter, 3 oz.; flour, dessertspoonful; 10 to 15
minutes. Gravy, 1/2 pint: 15 minutes. Mustard, dessertspoonful.
SAUCE PIQUANTE.
Cut the stalks and tops from half to a whole pint of quite young
gooseberries, wash them well, just cover them with cold water, and
boil them very gently indeed, until they are tender; drain and mix
them with a small quantity of melted butter, made with rather less
flour than usual. Some eaters prefer the mashed gooseberries
without any addition; others like that of a little ginger. The best way of
making this sauce is to turn the gooseberries into a hair-sieve to
drain, then to press them through it with a wooden spoon, and to stir
them in a clean stewpan or saucepan over the fire with from half to a
whole teaspoonful of sugar, just to soften their extreme acidity, and a
bit of fresh butter about the size of a walnut. When the fruit is not
passed through the sieve it is an improvement to seed it.
COMMON SORREL SAUCE.
Strip from the stalks and the large fibres, from one to a couple of
quarts of freshly-gathered sorrel; wash it very clean, and put it into a
well-tinned stewpan or saucepan (or into an enamelled one, which
would be far better), without any water; add to it a small slice of good
butter, some pepper and salt, and stew it gently, keeping it well
stirred until it is exceedingly tender, that it may not burn; then drain it
on a sieve, or press the liquid well from it; chop it as fine as possible,
and boil it again for a few minutes with a spoonful or two of gravy, or
the same quantity of cream or milk, mixed with a half-teaspoonful of
flour, or with only a fresh slice of good butter. The beaten yolk of an
egg or two stirred in just as the sorrel is taken from the fire will soften
the sauce greatly, and a saltspoonful of pounded sugar will also be
an improvement.
ASPARAGUS SAUCE, FOR LAMB CUTLETS.
Green cut the tender points of some young asparagus into half-
inch lengths, or into the size of peas only; wash them well, then drain
and throw them into plenty of boiling salt and water. When they are
quite tender, which may be in from ten to fifteen minutes, turn them
into a hot strainer and drain the water thoroughly from them; put
them, at the instant of serving, into half a pint of thickened veal gravy
(see sauce tournée, page 106), mixed with the yolks of a couple of
eggs, and well seasoned with salt and cayenne, or white pepper, or
into an equal quantity of good melted butter: add to this last a
squeeze of lemon-juice. The asparagus will become yellow if
reboiled, or if left long in the sauce before it is served.
Asparagus points, 1/2 pint: boiled 10 to 15 minutes, longer if not
quite tender. Thickened veal gravy, 1/2 pint; yolks of eggs, 2. Or:
good melted butter, 1/2 pint; lemon-juice, small dessertspoonful,
seasoning of salt and white pepper.
CAPER SAUCE.
Stir into the third of a pint of good melted butter from three to four
dessertspoonsful of capers; add a little of the vinegar, and dish the
sauce as soon as it boils. Keep it stirred after the berries are added:
part of them may be minced and a little chill vinegar substituted for
their own. Pickled nasturtiums make a very good sauce, and their
flavour is sometimes preferred to that of the capers. For a large joint,
increase the quantity of butter to half a pint.
Melted butter, third of pint; capers, 3 to 4 dessertspoonsful.
BROWN CAPER SAUCE.
Thicken half a pint of good veal or beef gravy as directed for sauce
tournée, and add to it two tablespoonsful of capers, and a
dessertspoonful of the pickle liquor, or of chili vinegar, with some
cayenne if the former be used, and a proper seasoning of salt.
Thickened veal, or beef gravy, 1/2 pint; capers, 2 tablespoonsful;
caper liquor or chili vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful.
CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH.
To nearly half a pint of very rich melted butter add six spoonsful of
strong veal gravy or jelly, a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies,
and some chili vinegar or cayenne, and from two to three
tablespoonsful of capers. When there is no gravy at hand substitute
a half wineglassful of mushroom catsup, or of Harvey’s sauce;
though these deepen the colour more than is desirable.
COMMON CUCUMBER SAUCE.
Pare, slice, dust slightly with pepper and with flour, two or three
young cucumbers, and fry them a fine brown in a little butter, or
dissolve an ounce and a half in a small stewpan or iron saucepan,
and shake them in it over a brisk fire from twelve to fifteen minutes;
pour to them by degrees nearly half a pint of strong beef broth, or of
brown gravy; add salt, and more pepper if required; stew the whole
for five minutes, and send the sauce very hot to table. A minced
onion may be browned with the cucumbers when it is liked, and a
spoonful of vinegar added to them before they are served.
Cucumbers, 2 or 3; butter, 1-1/2 oz.; broth or gravy, nearly 1/2 pint;
salt, pepper.
ANOTHER COMMON SAUCE OF CUCUMBERS.
Cucumbers which have the fewest seeds are best for this sauce.
Pare and slice two or three, should they be small, and put them into
a saucepan, in which two ounces, or rather more, of butter have
been dissolved, and are beginning to boil; place them high over the
fire, that they may stew as softly as possible, without taking colour,
for three-quarters of an hour, or longer should they require it; add to
them a good seasoning of white pepper and some salt, when they
are half done; and just before they are served stir to them half a
teaspoonful of flour, mixed with a morsel of butter; strew in some
minced parsley, give it a boil, and finish with a spoonful of good
vinegar.
WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE.
Cut off the stems closely from half a pint of small button
mushrooms; clean them with a little salt and a bit of flannel, and
throw them into cold water, slightly salted, as they are done; drain
them well, or dry them in a soft cloth, and throw them into half a pint
of boiling béchamel (see page 108), or of white sauce made with
very fresh milk, or thin cream, thickened with a tablespoonful of flour
and two ounces of butter. Simmer the mushrooms from ten to twenty
minutes, or until they are quite tender, and dish the sauce, which
should be properly seasoned with salt, mace, and cayenne.
Mushrooms, 1/2 pint; white sauce, 1/2 pint; seasoning of salt,
mace, and cayenne: 10 minutes.
ANOTHER MUSHROOM SAUCE.
Very small flaps, peeled and freed entirely from the fur, will answer
for this sauce. Leave them whole or quarter them, and stew them
tender in some rich brown gravy; give a full seasoning of mace and
cayenne, add thickening and salt if needed, and a tablespoonful of
good mushroom catsup.