Moshiour Textile Series ) T r Fabric Structureition preface To The ghird Edit : of Fabric Structure & Design’ has béen rewritten to include newer in, But the general character and aims ing demand shows that my ‘The text of this third edition been revised and some sections have ge. formation and broaden the coveras of the book are unchanged and the éontinuit Approach has, as J hoped, stood the test of time. Told fi helped me in preparing the new editio my Hinds, teachers, ofganizations, "Engineering College, Dhaka. ae ye got a very short time to edit the datas and informations aye ymistake cordially and any of your suggestion will be ‘and { am especially grateful 19 factory and students of Textile ike to thank again’ the inany people who have kindly 7 System of drafling/ Classification of drafting CONTENTS ~ Description Page No. CHAPTER ONE : INTRODUCTION 7-30. L1_| Textile Fabrics 7 1.2 _| Types of Fabric 10 13 _| Structure 1 14 | Classification of woven Fabric Structure [11 7 Texture 12 1.6 | Methods of Fabric Representation 12 7 Formula Number : 13. 18. Some important Terms 14 bE} Classification of Parts of a complete 20 design for a woven fabric OR Basic elements of a woven design. Methods of Indicating of drafting plan 21 22 CHAPTER TWO: BASIC weave STRUCTURE OF WOVEN FABRIC. Features of plain weave 31 -| Classification of plain weave 32 ‘Omamentation of Plain cloth 34 Derivatives of Plain weave 35 2.4.1 | Rib weave 35 2.4.2 | Matt Weave 38 CHAPTER THREE : 3-63 TWILL WEAVE Twill weave 43 Features of Twill weave a3 Classification of Twill weaves ag Derivatives of Twill weave a7 Factors affecting the Prominence of twill | 62 Uses to Twill os iii\ — are rou sein _] i [at _ | Satin 7 Sateen ; $3 Classification of Satin ; BASIC WE : [42.1] Warp satin STRUCTURI 42.2 _| Well satin 7.1 .[Four Primary Basic Weft Knitted| 103 | -s of Satin weave a Structures: : 4a Use CHAPTER FIVE . E Plain struct FANCY DESIGN OF FABRIC _}___| | au — “Types of fancy weaves P = $2 Pet lion principle of Mock leno i 4 — 5.3 | Difference between Mock Teno & Hucka’ 7.6 °| Stitches produced by varying the back sequence of — the — ncedie loop : Sa_| Construction principle B E | intermeshi : 3.5 | Difference between ‘Ordinary, and 75 IAPTER FIGHT Brighton Honey comb Ta bou 5} Four basic Methods of producing crepe | 79 itched double cloth weaves 82 | 5.7_| Wadded thread" 85 8.3 | Points to be considered before going to $8 [Difference between Bed ford cord &| 88 construction of a cloth Pique Uses of double stitched cloth CHAPTER SIX 89-101 8.5 Basie principle of tubular cloth / Double COLOUR AND WEAVE EFFECT width fabric Seamk : G1_| Colour and weave effect 89 Multiply fabr 6.2 - | Types of colour and weave effects 99 _| Stitching systems of multiple fabric "| __128__| 6.3 [Order of colouring’ Arrangement: of | 89 . Function of wadded thread in double | 130 threads | [ cloth ‘ 64 _| Pattern table 90 [z PREVIOUS QUESTIONS 137-154 65 | Designs produced by simple colour and 90 - | ‘weave effect 66 [Stripe & check 2 6.7_[ Classification 92] | . | 68" [Factors considered for check and stripe} 93 : design " ‘ 6.9 _| Figuring with extra threads B : : 6.10 [Fabric weight Calculation 9 iv,Suteoduction le rapier, Although man’s first articles of clothing ind furnishing, were "probably animal skin wraps, sometimes stitched together using, bone needles nd animal sinews, he soon attempted to manipulate fibrous materials into textile fabrics, encouraged by experience gained from interlacing, branches, leaves and grasses in the production of primitive shelters. : The word ‘textile’ originates from the Latin verb fexere ~ to weave = but, as the Textile Institute's Terms and Definitions Glossary explains, it is now ‘a general term applied to any manufacture from fibres, filaments or yarns characterised by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to thickness’. 1.1 Textile Fabrics: Textile fabrics can be produced directly from webs of fibres by bonding, fusing or interlocking to make non-woven fabrics and felts, but their physical props ies tend to restrict their potential end-usage. The mechanical manipulation of yarn into fabric is the most v satile method of manufacturing textile fabrics for a wide range of end-uses. There are three principal methods of mechanically manipulating + yarn into textile fabrics + Interweaving; + Intertwining and * Interlooping. . =All three methods techniques through their sophisticated — manufacturing machinery application on primitive fr ty isthe intersection of two sets of straight thread. Interweavi 3 and weft, which cross and interweave at right angles ¢ warp and wé sach other, Weaving is by far the oldest and most commo, mnethod of producing éantinuous lengths of straight-edged fabric On 2 Intertwiiing and trvisting includes a number of techniques, such as braiding and knotting, where threads are caused to “Intertwine with each other at right angles or some other angle. These techniques tend to produce special constructions whos" uses are limited to very specific purpose have evolved from hand-manipylayg, AMES inty operations “on automate, 3 Interlooping consists 6f forming, yarn(s) into loops, each of which is typically only released after a succeeding loop has been formed and intermeshed with it so that a secure ground loop structure is achieved. The loops are also held together by the yarn passing from one to the next. (In the simplified illustration this effect is not illustrated.) Knitting is the most common method of’ interlooping and is second only to wea 8 aS a method of manufacturing textile products. It is estimated that over 7.million tons of knitted goods are produced annually throughout the world. Although the unique capability of knitting to manufacture shaped and form- filling articles has been utilised for centuries, modern technology . 9rt _""S=—s>H—S “elt has enabled Knitted form to expand int industrial e 1.2 Types of Fabric. 1. Waven Fabric 2. knitted, 3. Non woven 4. Braid. Mo ee construction asin shaped and unshaped to a wide range of 10 parel, domestic and 1.3 Structu In the manufacturing process of a cloth by weaving, fon loom, the technique how the two series of threads are interlaced at right angles to cach other is called structure ie Structure is the interlacement of warp and weit yarn or interlooping of loops Foundation of the woven cloth structure or cloth structure depends on: ariation of woven © The natur /type of yarn used. The count'or relative thickness of the yarns used as warp or wet Thread density of a fabric The order of interla cing the ends and picks. Modification produced by finishing treatment, 14 Classific Woven ste ion of woven Fabric Structure: ctures. may be conveniently divided into. two principal categories Simple Structure 2. Compound Structure 1 Simple Structure: o nndts and the picks int right angles and in the cloth are respect el with eich other, There is only one ries of picks. ally tesponsible for the and the aspect of aesthetic All the consti went threads are ey utility oF pertormance appeal na fabs Example: Plain, Twill fabric uJ Structure picks are used 10. this ries Of € 2, Compound ancts aid than one Se + Mere he body of the structure say be rexponsile Ft eee e + some of threads ayy be employed « whilst. some My fabric be ornamental PUPOSS as be found nat to be in ee in either plane. Inthe’ clothes, some formation Pile, Towel fabric one to another | parallel Example’ fabric by interlacing shinning, 1.5:Texture: The quality or prope of warp and weft yarn: properties, draping-properties. Texture of woven fabrie deper + Yarn (warp, well) count + EPIL PPL Yarn ty Characteristics of fibre Interlacement. arties which we get from oe s handle properties, such a don- .6 Methods of Fabric Representation: 5 . “he unit of woven fabric is the point of intersection of a warp end nda welt pick. The interlacing is of two possible kinds- 1. warp over weft interlacing, 2. warp under weft inferlacing, qo? warp Cy] Ee ver CaF et Interlacing Type 1 interlacing Type 2 Warp over weft Warp under weft 2 : In this interlacirlg, the warp thread is rais sd to: produce, interlacing, 2. In this interlacing, the warp yarn is lowered to produce interlacing, ‘eature of design: *eiThe vertical lines/ space is to represented a warp end. *raThe Horizontal space is to represented to a welt pick. ‘taEach square indicates an intersection of an end and a pick. + 12% — Represents warp up over weft and C+ represents well up overavarp. ‘EaThere are two and only two possibilities-of each crossing, either the end passes over the pick or the pick passes over the end. ‘2 Only one repeat should be shown on design paper. | Symbols indicate repeat unit # Represents starting point. Formula Number: ‘mula number is notation diagram wi { welt res hich represent the warp terlacing point. The system of expressing the fabric ‘tation is called Formula number. 13ee § up are put above the fr ction line and thy ‘ are put above the fraction line and thy a) Single interlacing field : The yarn bends from the top of the fabric to the bottom and covers two or Ex: Twill weave. “The warp floats coming, watt floats going dewn weit floats going down are more yarn. put under the fraction line b) Double interlacing field: The yarn bends, covers a following : Formula no of weft = yarns, bends again and reappears at the same fabric side Ex: Plain weave. eel eb ‘Open field 15 Formula no of warp : : " “ Interlacing diagram of ‘ ; pro. 1.8 Some important Terms: Cont ld : = Oo tein Free field ‘ontact field: feld ‘These are the contact points between warp and weft crossing al right angle. The number of contact field always equals the + product of the, number of warp and weft threads Contact field = RNws X Now Sete Here, R> Repeat number. Double interlacing field ‘ 3. Free field: as Me pee ; These are the zones where the warp and weft yarns do not touch * low > weft. ' _ tnd do not change fabric side. Because of the free field, floats are ‘ormed and the yarns in th a U2Anterlacing field: aye These are the points where a y " e sys f threads if eet “ ae ae tinetion OPER fields changes its position in relation to the othr system. A distinction, 0° “lacing se are the zones where war . is made between single and double inierlacing field. P nor weft thread occurs. The no of open field is important for air and water permeability. Parachute,2343 «Total Free field =6 Problem 02: Formula No (warp) = 5 Formula No (warp) => Solution: 1. Contact field = RNwa X RNwe 2. Interlacing field warp NFNwa X =2X7=14 ee 3. Free field warp =(SlaFNwa-NFNwa)X RNwa f =(7-2) x Br : & =35 4, Interlacing FNwa XRNwa +) nFNwe X RNwe 2X RNwa X RNwe T] 9 -2X7+7X7 4 2X7X7 18 RNwa x Ratio Problem 03: Solution: 1. Contact field = RNwa X RNwe = 10 X 10 = 100 2. Interlacing field= NFNwa X RNwa.+ NFNweX RNwe. =4X 10+4X 10 =80 3. Free field = (S nF Nwef — NFNwef X RNwet ={(10-4)x10 }+ {(10-4)X10 } =60+60 = 120 Problem 04: Geen rib 1, Contact field = RNwa =2 0 (SpnFNwa -NFNwa)X RNwa + RNwe 2. Interlacing field = NFNwa X RNwa+ NFNwe X RNwe- 2X2+2X5 =14 3. Free field warp Repeat no. 2X5 (SnFNwa- NFNwa)X RNwa = (5-2) X 2=6 4. Free field weft = (5-2)X5 =15 19 =(SnFNwef - NFNwef X RNwefee _—s=D 13 Th of pre Te: 16 Th an aoe complete design for a w, 1.9 Classification of Parts of a iP! Ove, 4) Denting plan: fabric OR Basic elements of 3 woven deSi8” The process of inserting war p vor through reed is called denting. The planning of this denting according to order is 1) Weave Plan. 2) Drafting Plan. 3) Lifting Plan. 4) Denting Plan. 1) Weave Plan: ({t represents the interlacement of warp and welt threads j the repeat of the design) It shows the ups downs of each yay ina fabric sample; it draws on the graph paper. The warp fay and weft face are identified by any symbol and blank spay respectively. The vertical spaces are warp and horizontal ay called denting plan. Normelt “ two yarns are passed through dent. ik a hk he ‘Drafting plan welt. 2) Drafting Plan: [the process of drawing the warp yarn into the heald eye according to the weave plan or design is called drafting, and the plan by which drafting is indicated called drafting plan) It indicates the no. of heald shafts required to make, a design. It is drawn on the top of the weave plan. The vertical spaces are warp ani horizontal are healds. The choice of the type a drafting plan depends upon the type of the fabric woven. 3) Peg or Lifting plan: Lifting plan defines the selection of healds to be lifted lowered on each successive insertion of weft or pick Lifting plan is drawn at the right side of weave plan Lifting pian. i Weaving pian x[X)xp x 1.10 Methods of Indicating of drafting plan: 1) By raling line. 2) By design paper. 3) By Numbering, 1. By ruling line: In which the horizontal lines represent the healds and the vertical lines represent warp threads. The insertion point of the lines indicates the end has passed through that particular heald shaft. x x x x x{X] [Rh x x ¥ “2, By design Paper: In which’ the horizontal spaces represent healds and vertical spaces warp threads. The cross marks are drawn inside the squares of graph paper which indicates warp thread are passed through respective heald shaft. 20 al15 Th of pr Te 16 Th an L 3, By numbering: : Under weave plan numbers are written. This numbers ing, the number of heald shafts. Through which that particulary, thread has passed through. Fig: Fig:2 Fig:3 .11 System of drafting/Classification of drafting: 1) Straight draft. 2) Skip draft : 3) Pointed draft/ V draft. 4) Broken draft. 5) Divided draft. 6) Grouped draft. 7) Combined draft. 8) Curved draft. 9) Bed fort cord. |. Straight draft. This draft is the simplest type of draft wl ‘ms the basi plest f draft type aft which forms is Tis the most common draft ani number of heald shafts, Each succes ssive thread is drawn on each successive heald d it can be used with any irst heald shaft = Used in twill design. and the 2 through the second shaft and’so on, So the number of heald shaft equals the number of warp threads in a repeat + Lifting plan is the same as design. a a a x 5 a x Straight draft 2, Skip draft: «© This draft is used in weaving the fabric with high density,of warp threads. The nuber of heald used is multiple of 2 or more than the nuber of threads in warp repeat. = This enables to decrease the density of heald on each shaft and to reduce the friction thread against thread and thread against shaft. Incase plain of dividing each heald shafts into two, the odd are drawn through the 1* set of heald ‘skip drat number of threads shafts and the even niimber of.threads are drawn through the 2"! set. 3. Pointed or V ~ draft: ” + Used to produce fabric with symmetrical design e.g. Jig jag twill, Diamond. 23,Th of prc Te: 1.6 Th anv = These are used where the straight draft can not be app), because a large warp repeats. + This draft can be considered as a combination of straig, drafts. +A straight draft is returned in the opposite direction ay, predetermined point. = The 1*tand last heald shafts contain two warp ends. + The number of heald shafts equals to half of the number g threads in warp repeat. x bl l Pointed draft 4, Broken draft: : This draft can be considered as a’ modified pointed draft This is a combination of straight drafts with different directions of constructions. The reversal of direction is not on the last or the first shaft as in pointed draft. When the direction is reversed the. first thread of the newt Broup is started higher or lowers than the last thread of Proceeding group. , The last thread of 1 group is 1s thread of 2! group is welt float The design i dere © design isnot considered to symmetrical design. Applied for producing herring i i oes '§ herring bone twills, diaper design warp float and 24 Broken draft. * 5, Divided draft: Ind groups. For every group, suitable draft is selected. Used in double warp weaves, two ply weaves, pile weaves i.e. two or more set of warp yarns required More frequently inter weaving threads are kept in the front is draft, the heald shafts are divided into two or more heald shafts. ‘ x x x Divided draft In warp pile fabric, the ground warp threads are passed through the front heald shafts and the pile warp threads are passed through the front heald shafts and the pile warp Unreads are passed through the back heald shafts. 28=ES=aeaeer- i} © 15 Th of pre Te: 16 Th an 6. Grouped draft: + «This draft is used for producing check & stripe fabrics, 7. Curved draft: + Two ets of stripes are used in two set heald shafts. + Warp of cach group passed through a particular group.” healds adjacently and the other set of warp is insen” through another group of healds adjacently. # The repeat of draft is determined by the no. of stripes the no, of threads in each stripe. Grouped draft Used to produce decorated weave with large repeat unit Used to reduice the no. of heald shafts. Irregular drafting and not classified. Curved draft 26 Compined draft: In producing some sp cial types of fabrics different type of drafts are required to be mixed. Itisa very complicated type of draft It can be chosen if there are some technological or economical reasons. Great experience is required for such drafting plan. x x x x Combined draft difference between Straight & Skip dra shafis is equal to the no of warp threads. Straight draft. Skip draft. 1. It is a straight type of | I. Itisa of cross draft. draft. 2, Straight draft is the]2. It is comparatively a simplest type draft and is| complicate type of draft. the basis of many other : drafts. 3. In case of straight draft |3. Not same. design the weave plan and lifting plan are the |__ same. 4. In repeat the no of heald | 4 The no of heald shafts are | threads in a repeat. 2 or more times greater than the no of warpeee ae a Straight draft. : Skip draft. oR : the heald shafts are rer areroupl of heald cha Soup of eald shag) jlference between Broken draft & Divided Draft: 7 als} Sroken draft Divided draft. individually lowered or] (in eack group 2 or more healds are lowered or lifted ata time. & Tn bwill design, this draft | 6. In plain weave, this draft I This draft can be considered asamodified pointed draft. |_more group of drafts | Teal shaits are not divided | 2.Heald shafts are divided into two or mor: groups and for into two or more groups. | isused. The 1 thread is drawn] 7. > of dividing cach] ” each group, Suitable draft is . through the 1 heald shaft} — heald shafts into ‘wo, the? ~ chosen ——Frequently| | firection is). fore: requently and the 2 through the 2 odd number of threads a r,rr—r—“‘( NDE =—— Sateen weave. check or stripe fabrics, 3. Warp at each group paggFeatures of plain weave: through a particulay_ The plain weave is obtained by raising all even numbered group of heal) warp ends at one pick and faising all the odd numbered one‘ adjacently. | at the other pick 4. The .repeat of draft is) The repeat contains 2 ends and 2 picks. determined by the no. of threads in each stripes and the no. of stripes, Both sides of the weave are identified It comprises a high production of the total output of woven fabric, Ie Made from all kinds of textile raw materials and yarns ic. | cotton, jute, man-made from both spun‘and continuous Fr filament. Thread ‘interlacing in alternate order. EEC Kok Each thread gives maximum, amotint of support to the 5, Onided daft 30 kr adjacent threads, Texture i tronger and finer than any other structure. 2 heald shafts are sufficient to produce plain weave when the no. of enls/em is large, 4 or 6 heald shafts are used with skip draft. user : is used. for steuctures which range from very heavy and darse canvas and blankets made of thick yarns to'the lightest Ad finest cambries and mus ins made in extremely fine yarns 31and upholstery and drape, 1 + dress; Coat, suit, lace N « Rib fabric: dress; Coa aecoat Warp faced cloth: © Matt from wool and worsted suitin 5 foe ton orien ~ Weft crimp. 7 [Name ____| Specification + Fabric shrinkage to the warp. 1. Poplin. WA x oot ‘abric specification: SaaS xs" : GOX14 fs oe Jses: Denim, Gabardine,, Terylene 2. Sheeting, : een) ‘ esableaaises . Weft faced cloth: 3. shirting. __27«38{tex) * Prominence of welt yarn is more than that of warp yarn. 15 7 22X 26-28(em) ee a ‘ Z weft yarn but coarser warp yarn. Th + Voile x50 + Weft crimp > Warp crimp of 60x50 + Fabric shrinkage to the weft. prc 5. Cambrie. 90% 60 * Production cost of this fabric is high. Te: ‘ 0x50 abric specification: 2325X30s ASUS x45" . 2.2 Classification of plain weave: ses: Cotton firebrick, cotton casement cloth etc. (A) According to cover factor/Compactness: 1. Approximately square cloth: : 8) Alternatively * Warp count = weft count. |. Balanced cloth. 16 * Thread density equal ie. EPI. = P-P.. + Unbalanced cloth jTh = Warp and weft faces are equal on both sides of the cloth ane = Warp crimp =wett crimp. - Balanced cloth: fad) = Warp cover factor = Weft cover factor. i Warp count = Weft count. Fabric specification: 225% 30 y gen ee Pectiication: OX 100 "Warp and weft faces are equal on both sides of the fabric. Uses: Cheese cloth, surgical dressing, tracing cloth. 30X30 \ gsu abric specification: =S* 205 100X120 os 32 7 7 33peer 2. Unbalanced cloth: » -EPI= PPI but warp count # weft count. 60'S X 30'S y gow 100X120 welt count. But EPI # PPI. GO'SXG0S yagsn 120X100 + Warp count # Weft count; GO'SX30'S y gon 120X100 + Fabric specification: + Warp coun + Fabric specification: EPI + PPI Fabric specification: 2.3 Ornamentation of Plain cloth: (i By using extremely fine yarn; e.g. Muslins. U)= By using coarser yarn. e.g, Jute Hessian. we ee count. Various raw cotton: Warp polyester + weft cotton. Various type of yarn. Various type of fibre. Changing of thread density. By using fancy slub yarn. By using different order of denting. By using different twisted yarn. By using warp beam of different tensioned. : Special type of reed. oe ‘or ms we ve ore ‘we Gt lize 34 A Derivatives of Plain weave: T Rib weave ‘Threads of different, colours are combined in check form: The threads both warp and weft may vary in colour ar 4:1 Rib weaves: : \. Features of Warp'Rib: Matt weave. Finer yarn tised as warp and coarser as weft. im Were ih Te Terewular warp Rib It proditces Rib or Cord effect in the weft direction. The number of ends are more than the nmber of picks in unit space. Low twisted yarn is used in weft. The ends interlace with the picks. Warp yarn single yarn and weft yarn bundle or grouped yarn. Two or more weft yarns pass over or under a warp. 35Yr. + Each end is brought prominently to the surface on sures of weft Rib: side of the cloth. | Features of weft Rib: ‘+ Produce ribs or cords in the warp direction. a. Regular warp Rib: + Finer yarn used as weft and coarser as warp. © In bundle, the no of weft yarn is equal + Found regular appearance in fabric. x * The no of picks is more than no of ends. Production ability is high. = Warp yarn bundle and weft yarn single. = Two or more warp yarns and weft yarns pass under or » Formula number = warp rib [x = No of warp ) in every rib] . . over a weft yarn + Both sides of fabric is. weft faced cloth. +b. Irregular warp Rib: * = Opposite to.warp Rib weaves. + Inbundle the no of weft yarn is different /unequal. The weft is brought prominently to the surface’and forms * Irregular appearance is shown in the fabric. lines running the length of the cloths on both sides. . + Formula number= —“—warprib [x -and_*_ The picks interlace with the ends. ” . individually indicates the no of warp yarn] Regular weft rib: . i . + In bundle equal no of warp yarn. Uses: Used extensively in the production of the varic * Regular appearance. grosgrain cloths and meatless fabric. [CELE Formula number = 1 weft rib. [x = No of warp yarn bel [x] x] Je in every rib] CECELELE : be eT xT x KT Pe] Ix fx -Irregular weft rib: * Re eet + Inbundle, unequal no of warp yarn . i + Irregular appearance RRR RT * Formula no = {+ y) — fx andy individually indicates the no of warp yarn.) 36 . : 37fra aca i i 6 A (a) wet Tr Rs metry Uses: Blankets, hair cords ete, 2.4.2 Matt Weave: Features of Matt weave: 2 5 * Mall weave is constructed by extending. the plain * both warp and weft / vertically or horizontally, * Combination of,warp and weft Rib. : + Itis heavier than a square fabric’ made from the same but thickness will be same. * Greater resistance to tearing. * Loose structure, * Matt weaves tend to give smooth surfaced fabrics: more flexible fabrics and more flexible fabrics than weave, : A. Regular Matt: * Same count yarn and No of warp yarh = No of weit Combination of regular warp rib and Regular welt Rib. x * Formula number = x yarn] ‘ matt. [x= no of warp and’ ” iT . ee | Beteregular matt: * _Insame repeat, the no of warp and wett is different. * Combination of irregular warp rib and weft rib. 3 (8) mat 3 6r3)mat x+y)matt. [x = no of warp; Y = no © Formula n of weft yarn] ‘ C. Stitched matt: * Stitchistsed in matt. * To avoid looseness of the yarns in the fabric. stitch is used ie.to produce firm cloth, stitch used, *" In warp face, the centered warp thread is lowered and in weft face, the centre weft thread is up . Example: +3 . 39Th more than the no of picks | than the no of ends in unit in unit spa space. 2 4. Warp yarn single yarn [4. Warp. yarn bundle and : ee: and well yarn bundle} — weft yarn single. 15 D. Fancy matt: yarn. i: * Any rearranging except stitching of mattis called fancy 5: Two Tor more weft /5. © Two or more warp yarns - matt. yarns, are passed over or} passed over or under a pr . aes : under a warp, welt. Te H's produced by combining: matt and, warp and weit 6. The ends interlace with [6 The picks interlace with e the picks the ends Ex: —(r+x) or 9 fancy, 7. Each end is brought]7. The welt is brought | prominently to the| prominently tothe | surface on both side of the] surface of the cloth on | fabric. both side. | 1.6 [th ‘ lan} | | 1 er | F (8 ancymatt | Difference between Warp Rib & Weft Rib: Warp Rib Weft Rib. 12 It produces rib oF cord 1. It produces rib or cord effect in the welt] effect in the warp rection direction’ 2. finer yarn used as warp [2._ Finer yarn used as wait and coa and coarser as warp. The no of picks is more2. Repeat sis a square. May be classified of two groups: a. Warp rib. b. Weft rib. al D) ¢) Difference between Matt & Fancy Matt: Rib and weft Rib. ge Rib: a, ‘Mi 7. It not produces Rip Twill Weave Chapter 8 rd I Trproduces Rib or CO") “Cog effect effec. combination of warp ,* 3,1 Twill weave: 7 : weft Rib. * The order of interlacing which causes diagonal lines of warp and 2. Repeat size may Fo weit floats to be formed in the fabric is called twill weave. In the basic weaves these diagonal lines are continuous but in square. 3. May be classified o> .ome of their derivatives they may be broken or reverse groups: : ) Regular matt weave ) Irregular matt weave, .) Stitched matt weave, periodically. . The simplest possible repeat for a twill weave is 3 ends X 3 picks and there is no theoretical upper limit to the size of the repeat. © 3.2 Features of Twill weave: + A twill weave is characterized: by diagonal lines of warp and weft floats on the face of the fabric. These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but displacing the interlacing . Loose structure. Matt. : Fancy Matt. Lt is produced by extend] 1. By combinin : the plain weave with 8. points of cach end by one pick relative to that of the warp and weft. : previous end. : Zit.is the Comb of warp | ZAny ya + Twill lines are formed on both sides of cloth. . sarran a 'BINE excep“. The direction of diagonal lines on the face side of the cloth is opposite’ to that on the wrong side coinciding respectively with the weft and warp floats on the other side. Thus if warp floats predominate on oné side of the cloth, weft floats will predominate in the same proportion stitched matt is * on the other side. The simplest possible repeat for a twill weave is 3 ends picks. 42 43at + Diagonal lines running 78°. i Straight draft is used for producing this weave. This weave is made from * fibre. : These weaves are employed for ornamentation. Trade name: 30x 30(tex, . 36 X 26(em, 15 (cm) : 2. Gabardine. pH Fine cotton= —=—<4—_-— pf 64X 42(em) Fe 30/'x 30(tex) Te Coarser cotton= ete) - angles varying between 15°, poth of natural and man made the purpose of 2 Example: —s Z twill: Upward displacement of the interlacing point ie. ii. twill line is produced by forwarding of each warp yarn to right’ respect to each weft yarn. the: twill of this fabric forwards to left to right. # : 3 32 twill > S- bul 20° x1 90% 60 3.3 Classification of Twill weave: 1. According to the direction of twill line: : S Twill: Downward displacement of the interlacing point ic. Twill line is produced by forwarding of each warp yarn to Ieft side respect to each weft yarn. The twill line of this fabric forwards to right to the left, 44 2. According to the Face yarn: i. Warp face twill: Prominence of warp yarn on the face of the cloth. 1 or——s ii. Weft face twill: Prominence of weft yarn on the face of the cloth i : lk 2 eg: ys or 3 iii, Double face twill: Both faces of the cloth have the same appearance. Prominence of warp and weft yarn on both side of the cloth is the same. . 45b. 3. According to the nature of the twill line: i. Simple twill: a. Simple warp twill. b. Simple welt will. : : a. Simple warp twill: these dre formed by passing of each warp threads in each repeat of the pattern, on one pick, : ' 1 b. Simple weft twill: these’are formed by passing over all weft threads, in each repeat’ of the pattern, on each end. Eg: Ls Expanded twill: a. Warp expanded twill. b. Weft expanded twill. over or under one more weft yarns. There is no 1 up or 1 down in twill. Example: + : 2 Weft expanded twill: Each weft thread Pass over or under more warp yarns. 2 There is no 1 up or 1 down in twill. e Multiple twill: It contains more than one twill line which may be of different width. eget op 123 3 4 132 3.4 Derivatives of Twill weave: ere 9. 10. + 'Zig- Zig -zag / Pointed /waved twill. Herring bone twill. Diamond twill. Diaper design. : Broken twill. - Rearranged twill /transposed twill. Stepped twill. Elongated twill. Shadded twill. Combined twill. zag / Pointed /waved twill: i fant modification .of avi a.-Warp expanded twill: in the repeat each warp thread pass 't 1 One of the most important modification of twill weave produced by reversing the direction of the twill at a suitable a. b. interval and combination of's’ and ‘2’ twill. + According to reversing of direction, two types of Zigzag twill: Horizontal zigzag. Vertical zigzag. a. Horizontal Zig-zag: When the reversal of twill direction occurs upon the warp end it results a horizontal zig-2ag.eee eee a I direction reverses upon the warp yarn. * This twill is made fron’ any complicated continiious twill. semanas jedouble to the no of welt in the repeat, Uses: Ornamented design, upholstery, wall covering; screen, The change of direction of starts when finishes of bas, ¥ twill repeat and makes point in the moment of change. : ‘arious house hold item etc. Set ; 2, Herring bone twill: «Date nell ras elon This twill-is produced by reversal of twill direction at a suitable + Vadraft / pointed draft is found. interval unlike zig, zag twill and the changing of direction of 1* This twill is made from any continuous twill warp /weft yarn’s floating condition is reversed of. the previous yarn and it is the combination of “S’ and ‘Z’ twill. According to reversal of direction, two types of Herring boné twill a. Horizontal Herring bone twill. | b. Vertical Herring bone twill 2 a. Horizontal Herring bone twill: * Twill direction reverses upon the warp yarn on the principle of herring bone. + No. of warp yarn is double to the no. of weft yarn. * Basic continuous twill runs along warp. 3, Honeotal ig 209 2 ae =. Broken drat is found Lal * Horizontal stripe effect formed in the fabric. b. Vertical zig-zag: When the reversal of, twill direction occurs upon the weft yarn and results a vertical zig ~ zag. Feature: : : | «Twill direction reverses upon the weft yarn. .* Number of weft is double to the no. of warp in the repeat * The reversal of direction starts when finishes of basic twill _Tepeat and makes point in the moment of reversal * Basic twill runs along weft. =" : * Straight draft is found. - 1 Sill Feb. Vertical Herring bone twill: * Twill direction reverses upon the weft yarn on the principle of herring bone. * No. of weft yarn is double to the warp yarn. ‘© Basic twill runs along the weft. * Straight draft is found. * In this fabric vertical stripe effect formed.. Uses: Suits, Coats, and ornamented fabrics. 3. Diamond design: © tis the derivatives of the twill weave. @* It is constructed / formed on the basis / principle of pointed. @*+ Diamond design is found by the combination of + horizontal and vertical zig zag twill : @*+_ No. of both warp and weit threads are double than that of the base twill in the repeat ©* In this twill, pointed draft is found. : 5 @©* The design area is divided into 4 equal parts oe GE. Diamond designs are symmetrical about their vertical and ae horizontal axis. @ It is divided into equal parts both horizontal and vertical Uses: Towel, bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow cover etc. Diaper design: This twill weave derivatives is formed on the basis of axis. herring bone principle. * It is formed by the combin: herring bone. Number of both warp and weft are double than that of the ion of horizontal and vertical base twill in the repeat. In this twill, broken draft and straight draft is found. 51Dis Diamond design. istinguish between Diamond & Diaper: Diaper design. 7. It is on the basis of T. It is formed on the basis of herring bone principle. pointed principle. 2 It. is found by. the]2. It is formed by the combination of combination of horizontal horizontal. and vertical and vertical zig-zag twill. herring bone. 3. Pointed draft is found. 3. Broken draft and straight draft is found, Diaper design _ fepeat size (16 X 16) Uses: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow cover ete. 4 This designs. are] 4. This design is symmetrical about their} symmetrical. about ‘vertical and horizontal | ‘their diagonal axis. axis i 5. It is divided into two equal | 5. This design is divided parts both horizontal and| — into two equal parts vertical axis. along diagonal axis. Broken twill: Broken twill is obtained by breaking the twill liné of a regular twill Itis some what similar in appearance to zig - zag twill. A large variety of attractive effects can be produced by this twill, Broken twill is formed by dividing the continuous twill Tepeat in two sections or in 3 or 4 or more sections. Broken twill can be made3 either by warp way and weft way. 53+ If the threads are divided in warp way direction, it will result a broken draft. If the threads are divided in wef, ‘way sections and thus broken twill is obtained, it will result in a straight draft. ' If the basic twill:is broken at a regular interval, the produced stripes will be of equal width, other wise the stripes will be unequal width. Uses: Shirting, Suiting, designed fabrics etc’ 6. Rearranged twill / Transposed twill: Rearrangement of twill is produced by the transposition ot rearrangement of the original: order of threads in the regula” basic twill. This transposition may interrupt the continuation 0 twill line and thus may give.an effect of a broken twill design. This twill-can be constructed- 1. By rearranging the yams individually. 2. By rearranging the yarns group wise. 3. By cork- screw weave, a. Odd no. cork screw. _ b. Even no. cork screw. a. Odd no. cork screw: Odd no. cork screw is produced by rearranging of any continuous twill yarns irt satin order. It is both of warp way and weft way. This weave is formed from odd no. warp and weft yarns." b. Even no, cork screw: Even number cork screw weave is produced from two same repeat size of continuous twill of different basic twills. The no of warp threads in repeat size of produced scréw design is equal to the sum of warp threads in the basic twill and the no. of weft threads in design repeat will be equal to the no of weft threads in either basic twill. It may either be of warp floating or of weft floating, e RRB RETe se 6h Ieleleks AB con scien atm ath sce repeat 1X11 ven no. cork sre fer tt mover & Stepped twil 7 Stepped twill is produced by stepping a continuous twill and keeping the direction of twill line same or opposite. Types of stepped twill: i, Warp way step. ii, Weft way step. iii, Both warp and weft way step. 85i. Warp way step: It can be formed by stepping of continy can be formed by changing the direction of twill line or by not ill either z the direction of twill line or by : twill either changing the cirsctot a diccetion of we) hanging the direction after some steps. But the weave is changing the direction of twill line. Ifthe direction of wi | is not changed. after some steps, herring bone twill is formeqiroduced in. weft direction. If. the direction of twill line is hanged herring bone effect is formed. EE] Ey . REE DE ae * Both warp and weft way step: It is [x samé direction stp tl actually a diaper design. Where basic -Y* twill is extended in both warp and bebe 1 FE weft diréction. oe 3 __ opposite direction treo *” Elongated twill: ee The twill which is produced by twill angle in less than or more than 45° respect to horizontal or vertical axis is called Elongated |. "Elongated twills, running at various angles, can also be . n two or more wil constructed by advancing the points of inserti threads in one direction to one thread in the other direction.” Rate of advancement of twill upwards |, ends perm. Rate of advancement of twill outwards ~~ picks per em, tnd = Twill angle is determined by step number i.e. rate of advance from one interlacing point to the next. . on Two types of elongated twill: oma a. Warp way elongation. se HE b. Weft way elongation. ran 1. Warp way elongation: 7 ee gin ' + 2 or more pick displacement instead of 1 pick in each warp. : 56+ Twill angle runs around 45°. «This design is formed by continuous twill. ample, 123455432 b. Weft way elongation. 543212345 = 2or more ends + Twill angle runs bellow 45° Single shaded design on Satin base: RTT + In this method , some wet satin are made. pela fe + Then units are divided into groups and each warp face are fea increased continuously in the satin point of each section i until conversion of weft satin into warp satin. placement instead of 1 end in each we eye if] Idx bt fed x] Ix Ix io Double shaded design on Satin base: cart ee 2z me «In this method, like single shaded effect, beside of some weft satin are made. o shaded twill * Then units are divided into groups and each warp face are Spoil bane shaded deg increased continuously in the satin point of each section a. Single shaded design: until conversion of weft satin into warp satin. : b. Double shaded design. + Then each weft face are increased continuously in each . Satin based shaded design next unit from this warp satin until getting of previous a. Single shaded design. weft satin again b. Double shaded design. + This is repeat of double shading effect. “1, Single shaded design on twill base: = * Shading effect becomes gradually deep from thin and at -P--ETic e eReo being deep it again starts to be thin and thus complete & el pee] pel te a whole repeat. eT el pede dee * Itcan be created by a continuous twill. aus et ix} x 7 Fiample 5 5 4 Send sateen base double shaded design a, Double shaded design on twill base: . Shading effect become gradually thick from thin and aga becomes thin or Sradually thin from thick and ag? becomes thick gradually and complete a repeat. eee “ 58 .10. Combined twill: Coimbined twill is formed {or different types of new design; * Combined twills are formed by. combination of 4, continuous twill., 7 * In combined twill, no practically limitations and varies; of design can be produced. + Itis capable of producing compact and firm textures, + Itmay be both of warp face and weft face. + In warp way combined till divided draft and weft wy, Te 2e3a 40 5000 a2b ae a0 5865 seu warp way combined wil. repetsiva 26 X 12 straight draft. (cvded erat) : «(TEE 1. In case of equal no. of base twill: 6X6,6X60r8X8,8Xs [Efe oo : weft way combined twill, Warp way combination: base til Ends of new design = Ends of base twill X 2. Picks of new design = Picks of base twill. ; (Svaight on) Weft way combination: Ends of new design = Ends of base twill Picks of new design = Picks of base twill X 2. In case of unequal no. of base twill: . 4X4, 6X Gor 8X8, 6X6 Varp way combinatio: inds of nev design = L.C.M of no. of warp yarn of base twills X 2. ticks of new design = L.C.M of no. of weft yarn of base twills wo 61Rr rereseeeeeeeeeees gle of Twill: Mof no. of warp yarn of base twills angle of twill is the angle be no, of weft yarn of base twills x jinaginary horizontal line or axis parallel to the weft. ed by placing of continuoyg angle of twill with the horizontal can be calculated by t Weft way combination: Ae cee design = LC. tween the diagonal twill line and Picks of new design = L.C.M of New combined design is form numbers. mula: Rate of advancement of twill upwards , ends per cm. o = ends per em. Rate of advancement of owilloutwards "picks per cm... 43.5 Factors affecting the Prominence of twill weave: ill angle is determined by step number ie. rate of advance 1. Characters of weave: = Twill line of short floats O Less prominence twillline. mone interlacing point to the next. * Twill line of long floats More prominence but tt fates looseness ill line depends ori following factors: produced fabric is of less strength, ‘cre less interlacement. + Ratio of ends per inch and picks per inch : . + The difference of warp and weft yarn count B Chaecescijart + Rate of advancement of second interlacement of warp and «Twill line of coarse and soft twisted yarn > mq — Welton first interlacement. : 5 prominence. + Twill line of fine and hard twisted yarn > le Uses of Twill: 7 prominence. vill weaves are extensively used in manufacturing cloths for - + Twill line of folded or ply yarn ~ more prominence, .. FMents, household cloths and industrial cloths + Twill line of single yarn ~ less prominence. * Generally diamond, diaper and zig-zag twills are used for making pillow covers, screens, table cloth, upholstery, 3. No. of ends and picks per inch /Thread per inch: bed sheets, towels etc. For making fabrics for s * More no. of ends and picks per inch > me * ting suiting and panting Prominence. (Denim, gabardine ) are-used for continuous twills. For making various types of ornamental’ cloths other * Less no. of ends and picks per inch > less prominence . derivatives are used. 2 Lwills are used for Suiting and overcoats. * Herring bo om the point of view of manu Direction of twill in relation to twist direction: * Same direction > less prominence, * Opposite direction -» more prominence. turing cloths twill weave is cond in position in weaving factories. 63 62 5-chapter 4 Satin 4.1 Satin / Sateen: Features: 1. The fabricsurface is very smooth and lusturious. 2. By using low twisted yarn, and by increasing Ep) smoothness can be increased. 3. Only one interlacement between one warp and one weft, 4, This interlacement point is covered with adjacent long floa yarn, 5. No. of cross mark or base mark is equal to the no. of thread’ inthe repeat. _ 6: Loose structure compared to plain and twill fabric. 7. Not visible of twill line in this weave. 8. Widely used in case of jacquard design. : | 4.2 Classification of Satin: 4.2.1 Warp satin: If the prominence of warp floating this satin are called warp satin. are seen on the fabric surface, Warp satin is expressed by wu Where, x=waip face and y=move number (step value) 1, Regular warp satin. 2. Irregular warp satin 1. Regular warp satin: Repeat size is selected. From the repeat size, a step value is taken. ‘The move number is taken in the weft direction. The step value gives interlacement between warp and weft. The interlacement points are weft face and others are warp face. 2. Irregular warp satin: No fixed move number. Select repeat size. The interlacing points are placed on repeat randomly.” Not more interlacing between warp and weft. irregular warp satin 68 warp satin 10endee cee ae 4.2.2 Well satin: Ifthe prominence Of welt floating, are seen on the surface of th, fabric, it is called weft satin/sateen Move number: In case of satin weave, 1g points is known as move numb: the distance between two adjacent er /step value. Well satin is expressed by ——() x Where x=well face and y=move number interlac Regular welt satin 1 2. Irregular welt satin step value Repeat size 5X5 2,3 Regular weft satin: Repeat size is selected. 6x6 So 7X7 234, + Froth the repeat size, a step value is taken. * The move no. is taken in the weft direction. _ The step value gives interlacement between warp and Po A a 7 ses of Satin weave: he interlacing points are warp face and others are weit “1. Widely used to produce lace. : face. 2, Desks wear, curtain and decorative garments and : upholstery. . 3, Widely used to produce coat and suiting. 4. Used to produce multiply fabri : . 5. Used to produce very costly fabric because of its . ‘ smoothnéss. : : 6. Widely used incase of jacquard design in basic weave. wel sole 10 ert 7. Used as ladies dress. | : | 2. Irregular weft satin: | + No fixed move number. + Select repeat size, | * The interlacing poi ° lacing points are placed . { ‘arp and weft i 68 ie . \ : erChapter BA 1 Types of fancy weaves: 1. Mock leno / limitation gauge weave. 2. Hucka back. 3. Honey comb. a. Ordinary Honey comb. b. Brighton Honey comb. Distorted thread effect. a. Warp distorted thread effect. b. Welt distorted thread effect. Crepe weave. 6. Bed cord. 7. Pique. Mock leno / limitation gauge weave: Feature: * The produced fabric is as ike net / perforated. * Surface of this fabric is rough, * Repeat size is always even number such as 8 X 8, 10 X i 16 X I6 ete. * Mock lento weave heald. ** Smallest repeat size 6 X 6, * This weave can be divided diagonally, can be produced without using ler into two equal Sati Pome Yoon © Used for curtain and under clothing, and decorative purp ose : + Usec: in embroidery cloths, canvas cloths and light-t window curtains, roller tows + Used in combination with plain weave for decorative purposes. i.e. brocades, blouses, dress wear, table liner + Mostly used for towels for good water absorbency power. 5.2 Construction principle of Mock leno: The repeat size is marked out and divided into quarters and a small motif is filled in two opposite one «A The motif is completely reversed in the two remaining quarters substituting warp floating for weit floating and vice versa B Al weave ts produced C by combining A and B.Hucka back: a + Rough surface which is produced by floating thread, groups arranged ona plain weave basis, + Good moisture absorbency due to long floating. * Fabricis ook like skin of snake. +A more balanced Hucka back is produced if the we, repeat size is twice an odd number i.e. 2 X 5 = 10; rep, size 10X10. . + Itis by no means impossible to produce the weave oy Fea repeat which is complete on twice an even no. cf threads + Smallest or widely used repeat size 10 X 10. « Hucka back are symmetrical about their diagonal axis. + The stiffness of this fabric is good. + 10 X 6 Hucka back is one of the standard weave of t type. It is known as Devon Hucka back. Devon Hucka back: ror 6 Devon Hucka back Construction principle: Uses: i) The repeat size is marked out and divided into quarters a : ae eae qualities. filled in with plain weave in two opposite ones as fig A. ee : a + Linen and cotton towels. ii) The other two quarters are filled in motif which is produc = Shirting, dress wear, table linen, : by taking plain weave and adding some lifts i.e. floats a + Good moisture pick up. czeates. So that the motif and plain weave bind togeth + Hand towels \. effectively. |” iThe final weave C is Produced by combining A and B, 78 Difference between Mock leno & Hucka back: | Mock leno. Hucka back. I : 1. The fabric is as like net| 1. The fabric look like i / perforated. skin of snake. | : “ [2° Repeat size is even| 2. RSis twice of odd no. number. : 3._smallestRS.26X6. | 3. Widely used RS > 10 | 70 7 ! |ee | —— “Mock leno. Hucka back. : |X Wand iq T z Brighton Honey comb: Rough surface. Similar appearance formed on both side of the fabric. * Devon hucka back . Thesmallmotfisfilled| 4 The 80 oppo in two opposite} quarters are filled : quarters and the motif * and 8 completely reversed | other Opposit, » in the two remain; quarters are filled in , quarter substitut motif which warp float produced by : floating pl weave . adding some lifts ie Moats are created prinaple. firm 4 Ordinary Honey comb © Surface of produced fabric j Similar appearance of ¢ fabric. In repeat size, ends and picks are es Repeat size is multiple of 2 Smallest repeat size 6X 4 One cell in each repeat V~ draft oF pointed draft is found, Alternate raised and stink diamond Bive the effect of a Honey comb qual of un equal 0 - shaped a 2 Construction ~ simple. It 1s designed to produce more Honey comb cells of varying size. In tepeat, ends and picks are equal. The no. of threads per repeat alway should be multiple of four (SX 8, 12 X 12, 16.X 16). X8 Smallest repeat siz Strarght draft 1s found. The longest float should always be one less than half the no. of threads in the repeat (16 /2=1)}. The construction - more comphcated than ordinary Honey comb, 3.4 Construction principle: Ordinary Honey comb n left corner is A will started from the b constructed in of one square down 5 twill started one sq A x from the top left ~ hand ec is constructed: The will be clear interSection of twill fines as at A. 73warp lifts in the squares to the right and below the square in - ii) Onc of the two diamonds produced, a row stitching p,, the top left hand corner. 7 is left and then lift the reminder of the diamond solic Indicate the points on the double row of binding which are immeciately adjacent to those of intersection as in A : Using the point indicated in A as the extreme lift of the longer fig-B. 2. Brighton Honey comb: float, lift the six adjacent ends as in B. (n/2-1). Each of these seven floats now form the centre float of a diamond which can be completed C.” 2s: Ordinary: : | + Hand towel, Glass cloth, Roller towel, Bath matt, : + In similar coarse cotton, it is also used for quilts and soft LU furnishing. : + In finer qualities for shirts and brocades. * Cellular blankets. A Brighton: : 7 + Quilts, brocades, hand towels, glass cloths, roller towel, | “crockery towels etc. Difference between Ordinary and Brighton Honey comb: Srdinary Honey comb Brighton Honey comb 1. Warps and wefts are! 1. In repeat, ends and . - equal or unequal cks are equal , irate 2 Repeat size. is always The no. of threads per ». Constrat gi! : : multiple of 2. repeat should always uct a ——z twill starting in the bottom left hat corner ali in each repeat. and then cons Ll ei construct a Tx? ‘will, starting with the fi 14 ‘ .1 Brighton Honey comb = Ordinary Honeycomb ___| Po size. _ V = draft is found. {| 3 6 Contraction issimple | 6 The | more compltated than construction ordinary Hone} 3 Straight draft is found. 7 . constructio b. Welt distorted thread effect. Warp distorted thread effect: After indicating the threads in the warp and weft direction which IS essential for forming the distortion, all the ands are filled in with plain weave as A For warp distortion, the pre selected warp threads of A are lected weft threads waining, ground ends are lifted over the veit threads in one group on the i* pick and in The completed design C ts obtained by combining A & B. Used for hand towel, | 7. Decorated remaining, | glass cloth, soft} brocade, b | furnishing. quilt | els ete lifted gxcept where they cross the pre s [3 Higher absorbent & Less absorbent to and then all the re | Moisture. Moisture. preselected [9 Longest float can be] 9 1 float should the other group on 2" pick as at B. | any no. of ends ] tess than % of total! © Be | ens _ | Cort a 4. Distorted thread effect: Features * The crossing end is made to lie at an angle to the r direction of the warp and welt threads * Instations of this effect can be produced by other weaves desigged to couse certain selected threads to be dist © The letter must flost freely on the surface of the fem ron weave that is plain weave helps to di * When the fabric 1s relaxed after’ ter’ weav: are distorted. ‘weaving, the floats The design 1s always even number This effect can be of : a. Warp distorted thread effect. « 7. Weft di ect: b. Weft distorted thread effect: Vett distorted: In cade of wett way distorted effect, distorted threads are taken injsed. for shitting, decorative purpose, home furnishing, Ladi warp way. No pick is taken as distorted thread. year ele. Crepe / Oatmeal weave: feature = Any kind of weave which will produce a broken irregular appearance on the face of the fabric is known as crepe weave * Rough irregular surface are often produce by using special warp and weft yarns which have a high twist factor that causes them to crimp of curl when the woven fabric is being finished. These yarns are known as crepe yarns and | generally the fabrics are produced from them are of plain | cloth. . + Similar overall effects can be produced by using ordinary yarns in special weaves ive. crepe weave. | eee Ie 5.6 uae = Mathods of producing crepe, weaves: } . i a sateen base. 2. By reversing. . Uses: * 3. By super imposing. | Warp distorted: 4. Ona plain iweave base. | 7 Light weight cotton and spun rayon qualities are used fer ornamental dress wear and shirting. 2 ee | = Heavy qualities: 4. Construct a sateen on the same repeat size.as at A. Cotton: soft furnishing. b. Construct a twill and show the starting point of the lift of Worsted: Suiting, each end as at A. Woolen: Coats. Using the sateen base as We starting point of each lift of : \ the twill rearrange the twill weaves on the sateen base, 18 19°2. By reversing: a. Any small motif is made at A (Motif float is not cxceed 34 b. ‘A’ is reversed by turning it over so that the warp lifts 9 the 4% end become the weft lifts of the St end a similarly the 6! , 7 and 8 ends are the converse oft 3x4, 204 afid 1 respectively and the design is now 8 X 4 B as the starting point of ¢ c. Reverse B by turning it over in the weft direction & { St at B final design C is thus produced 312 : Ona plain weave base: ‘A eateen is designed on half the no, of ends and picks required in final design as at A b. ‘A’ is expanded so’ that the ends and picks only and this satin base ach lift of a twill in this case Sateen base appears on is used alternative is use ‘super imposing: An 8 ends sateen is constructed at A. An-lends sateen is constructed and make 4 repeats at B Super impose B on the A to give the final weave c. On the remaining ends, alternative ends of plain weave : are inserted as at C : d. B& Care combined to give the final weave D 80 81hit, pants or coat etc. * Decorative purposes and jacquard design. + Saris and Towels and home furnishing, a Crepe yam: High twisted yarn which is used to produce cre fabric. Cord weave: b. Cord effect can be produced by * By thick yarn or, + By cord weave. « . + 1. Bed ford cord weave. 2. Pique weave. ‘1. Bed ford cord weave: Features: * Cord effect along warp & rough fabric surface." + Sunken line between two cords in warp. = Ina repeat two or more cord produced - = Endsand picks are always even number. = Pick number is always 4. = Weft float under cord effect. * Wadded or padded ie. low quality yarn is used produce / increase the prominence of cord effect. + Types of Bed ford Cord: i) Plain face bed ford cord. ii) Wadded bed ford cord. iii) Crepon bed ford cord. . iv) Bed ford cord arranged with alternate picks. + 82 Plain face bed ford cord: Twill face bed ford cord. The width of two cords (in the example, each cord has cight ends ) is indicated and then the outside ends of each cord known as cutting ends are shewn and plain weave is inserted as at ‘A’. The 1* pair of picks, weave plain in the under the warp ends and thus on the back of the cloth on irst cord but float the 2"! cord at B The second pair of picks float under the warp ends in the first cord and weave plain in the second cord as C. The final design ‘D’ is produce by combining, A, Band C. Figii) Wadded bed ford cord: Uses: The second pair of picks float under the warp ends in the 18 cord and weave plain without wadded yarn in the 2"! cord es C. The sual design’D is produced by com ing A, B,C. The repeat design wi ve s —— sa as will contain two more ends than, sodium wt cotton or spun rayon: Ladies dress, sports wear. "responding plain faced bed ford cord. These two more ¢jeqvier qualities: Soft furnishing, and ornamental trimmings. will be filled by wadded yarns. : Construction: FEA Fes Foo a. The width of two cords is indicated and then the outs ends of each cord known cutting ends are shown a Plain weave is inserted and in the middle of two cot along warp. Two wadded yarns are added b. The 1* pair of picks plain weave in the first cord witht waddeéd yarn but a ais me yarn but float under the warp ends in the 2! as and as A. 84 Worsted yarn: Trouser. . 5.7 Wadded thread: Less twist. Coarser thresid. : Very cheap, Lowest quality thread. Purpose of using wadded thread: + To produce the prominence of cord effect Pique weave: Features: ‘The cords run across the fabric. Two sets warp and one set Weft yarns are needed. One set of two sets warp yarn called stitching threads. The stitching threads take part in interlacement in regular interval. : Wadded yarns are used in weft way. : One cord per repeat. Normally divided draft ised: . 85