The Emerald Set by IridescentSav

If you have any questions about this pattern, please message me through instagram
(@savsiridescentcrochet) or etsy.
Disclaimer
You are not allowed to copy, distribute, or sell this pattern.
This pattern is made to measure by your own measurements.
All rights pertaining to The Emerald Set is owned by IridescentSav
I highly recommend to use the suggested yarn, otherwise it might not come out the same
or flowy.
If you decide to post or sell this skirt: please credit my social media account according to
the site.
TikTok, Instagram, Pinterest, Depop, Youtube, Esty : IridescentSav
Instagram: Savsiridescentcrochet
Materials:
➔ 3.75 Crochet Hook
➔ Around 5-7 skeins of Big Twist Panoramic yarn
➔ Scissors
➔ Tape measure
➔ 4 stitch markers (or anything to mark your project i.e. yarn, hair clips, earrings,
etc.)

Sourcing Materials
➔ https://www.joann.com/fine-weight-acrylic-panoramic-yarn-by-big-twist/1922719
8.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz6ShBhCMAR
IsAH9A0qWNrkIpzSPF4LXJWCqWcAQuG9f4dIj8pxIr7pI9vnclb_ghyYr_2_saA
iwcEALw_wcB
◆ You will need at least two skeins of yarn to use at the same time and 5
minimum to create this entire set.

Abbreviations (US):
-Ch: Chain https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7v-mssy5rKU&t=5s (skip to 0:33)
-Hdc: Half Double crochet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajIZThzJ36Q (skip to 2:57)
-Sl st: Slip Stitch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFk-fdAowbY (skip to 0:55)
-Dc: Double crochet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPYCjwasbE8&t=406s (skip to 6:44)
-Tr: Treble crochet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gL8yUqybtyQ (skip to 1:13)
-Dtr: Double Treble crochet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILlwUihTiiA (skip to 2:13)

Note:
➔ This pattern is not for a certain body size. It is structured in a way where you could
measure your body while following the instructions to be size inclusive. Although I will
be mentioning what I do according to my body size (size medium/ 28 in bottoms), it is
only for reference and nothing more.
➔ You will be doing some math and I will be guiding you with my own measurements. I
recommend plugging in your own measurements when needed to have the perfect fit.
➔ The skirt might be difficult to put on from bottom up because of the mesh stitch (this is
good since it will help not to fall down easily), attempt to put it over your head like a
dress instead. This will help immensely when trying on throughout the process.
➔ Like every pattern, this is made to help with future crochet projects, especially guiding
you to make your pieces accustomed to your size. You can make the skirt short, mid
length, or long according to your preference!
Helpful Links:
1. How to Start and Connect your rows/ foundation chain
https://youtu.be/UkyibUYDga8
2. Mesh Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi_Ca6BmhL8 (skip to 1:46)
3. How to crochet normally in the mesh stitch
https://youtu.be/EcF9uZpR9S8
4. How to treble crochet in the back loop
https://youtu.be/z1G1PEywW_k
5. How to do the ruffle (row 35-36)
https://youtu.be/k3Ruh9lOVxk
EMERALD SKIRT MEASUREMENT
Measurements you will need beforehand: Will be referred to as “measurement section”
1. Measurement 1: Width from around your waist in inches

Emerald Skirt Instructions:

★ Foundation Chain:
○ Using measurement 1 from the measurement section, chain the width of
your waistline.
○ Connect your last chain to your first chain with a slip stitch (sl st.), creating
a circle. Refer to the “helpful links” for a tutorial version of this step (#1).
■ This means we will crochet in the round, working in a continuous
circle.
★ Row 1 mesh stitch:
○ Chain three (ch. 3) and flip your work.
■ Always flip your work for every row from now on.
○ Chain one (ch.1), Skip 1 chain stitch, and then make a double crochet (dc)
stitch in the next chain stitch.
○ Repeat the pattern of making chain one (ch.1), skipping 1 chain stitch, and
making a double crochet (dc) stitch in the next chain stitch for the rest of
row
■ Refer to the “helpful links” section for a tutorial version of this step
(#2).
○ When you reach the end, slip stitch (sl st.) in the 2nd chain stitch that you
initially made when starting the round. (helpful link #1)
■ Always complete this step when finishing a row for every row
from now on.
★ Row 2 mesh stitch:
○ Chain three (ch. 3)
○ Chain an additional chain one (ch.1), skip 1 stitch, and double crochet (dc.)
in the next stitch.
 ■ This is known as a mesh stitch, (helpful link #2).
○ Continue the previous step for the rest of row 2.
★ Row 3-8:
○ Continue working the mesh stitch pattern (or row 2 instructions) for 6 more
rows. You should have 8 rows of mesh in total by this point.
★ Row 9
○ Chain three (ch.3)
○ Double crochet (dc.) in the ch. 1 stitch (from previous row), and then
double crochet (dc.) in the next stitch (in the double crochet (dc.) from the
previous row).
■ Continue this step for the rest of the row.
■ Refer to the “helpful links” section for a tutorial version of this step
(#3).
★ Row 10:
○ Double crochet (dc.) in every stitch until you reach the 24th one. In the next
stitch (25th one) put two double crochets (dc. 2), this is an increase.
Increase in every 25th stitch for the rest of row 10.
★ Row 11:
○ Double crochet (dc.) in every stitch until you reach the 14th one. In the next
stitch (15th one) put two double crochets (dc. 2). Increase in every 15th
stitch for the rest of row 11.
★ Row 12:
○ Double crochet (dc.) in every stitch until you reach the 9th one. In the next
stitch (10th one) put two double crochets (dc. 2). Increase in every 10th
stitch for the rest of row 12.
★ Row 13-18:
○ Dc. in every stitch normally with no increase for rows 13-18.
★ Row 19:
○ Double crochet (dc.) in every stitch until you reach the 9th one. In the next
stitch (10th one) put two double crochets (dc. 2). Increase in every 10th
stitch for the rest of row 19.
★ Row 20:
○ Double crochet (dc.) in every stitch until you reach the 4th one. In the next
stitch (5th one) put two double crochet (dc. 2). Increase in every 5th stitch
for the rest of row 20.
★ Row 21-27
○ Double crochet (dc.) in every stitch normally with no increase.
 ○ Continue double crocheting (dc.) for 6 more rows. In total you should have
27 rows by this point.
★ Row 28-31:
○ Chain five (ch. 5), skip 1 stitch, treble crochet (tr.) in the next, then chain
one (ch. 1). (helpful link #2 but with treble crochets instead of double)
○ You will continue this treble crochet (tr.) mesh stitch for 3 more rows. You
should have 31 rows by this point
★ Row 32
○ Chain three (ch. 3), treble crochet (tr.) in the chain 1 stitch (from the
previous row), and then treble crochet (tr.) in the tr. from the previous row.
Continue this step for the rest of the row. (helpful link #3)
★ Row 33-34
○ For the next two rows, you will treble crochet (tr.) in every stitch normally.
★ Row 35-36
○ Chain three (ch. 3), and treble crochet (tr.) in the back loop stitch facing you
only for the rest of the row. Repeat this step for the next row as well, you
should have 36 rows at this point with your yarn still attached.
■ Refer to the “helpful links” for a tutorial version of this step (#4).
★ Ruffle on row 35:
○ Row 1
■ Use the other skein of yarn and attach it to the back loop stitch of the
35th row with a slip knot.
■ Chain two (ch. 2) and half double crochet (hdc) in the next stitch.
Half double crochet (hdc) for the rest of the round in the back loop
stitch only. Once you are done with the round, sl st. in the 2nd ch.
that you made initially when starting the round.
■ Refer to the “helpful links” for a tutorial version of this step (#5).
○ Row 2
■ Flip your work, chain five (ch. 5), and double treble crochet three
times (dtr. 3) in the same stitch. Repeat the pattern of (dtr. 3) in the
same stitch for the rest of the round, this increase will create a ruffle.
■ Slip stitch (sl st.) in the fourth stitch this time to complete the row,
then cut your yarn
■ Refer to the “helpful links” for a tutorial version of this step (#5).
★ Ruffle on row 36
○ Row 1
 ■ Use the other skein of yarn and attach it to the back loop stitch of the
36th row with a slip knot.
■ Chain two (ch. 2) and half double crochet (hdc) in the next stitch.
Half double crochet (hdc) for the rest of the round in the back loop
stitch only. Once you are done with the round, sl st. in the 2nd chain
that you made initially when starting the round.
■ helpful link #5
○ Row 2
■ Flip your work, chain five (ch. 5), and double treble crochet three
times (dtr. 3) in the same stitch. Repeat the pattern of (dtr. 3) in the
same stitch for the rest of the round, this increase will create a ruffle.
■ Slip stitch (sl st.) in the fourth stitch this time to complete the row.
■ helpful link #5
○ Row 3
■ Flip your work, chain four (ch.4), and treble crochet (tr.) once in
every stitch normally for the rest of this round.
■ Slip stitch (sl st.) in the third stitch this time to complete the row.
■ helpful link #5
★ Row 37-42 mesh stitch
○ Chain five (ch. 5), skip 1 stitch, treble crochet (tr.) in the next, then chain
one (ch. 1). (helpful link #2 but with treble crochets instead of double)
○ You will continue this treble crochet (tr.) mesh stitch for five more rows.
You should have 42 rows by this point.
★ Row 39-Your preference of length
○ Repeat these row instructions in the following order below to your desired
length
■ Row 37-42 (6 rows of mesh stitch with treble crochet)
■ Row 32-34 (3 rows of treble crochet)
■ Row 35-36 (2 rows of treble crochet in the front loop only/ ruffle)
○ Refer to the “helpful links” for a tutorial version of this step (#5).
★ The rest of the skirt:
○ You will repeat the pattern of the mesh, solid, and ruffle pattern for
however long you want the skirt. Whether it be mini, mid length, or a maxi
skirt, it is up to you.
○ As seen in the photo, I repeated this pattern two more times to reach my
desired length.
★ Draw string:
○ If you would like extra security since the skirt might be quite heavy, chain
the length of measurement 1 in the measurement section plus 10 inches
more, and weave this chain piece through the top first row part of the mesh
waistband to create a drawstring feature.
EMERALD TOP MEASUREMENTS
Measurements you will need beforehand: Will be referred to as “measurement section”
1. Measurement 1: Width from one side of your shoulder to the other in inches.
a. EX: The width from one shoulder to another was measured
16 inches, so chained this amount in length.

2. Measurement 2: Length of how long you would like your top.

From the top of chest to the bottom of your bust in inches (lay
measurement over bust for the best coverage)
a. EX: The length I wanted my top to be was 5 inches.
When I crocheted this length, I ended up with 12 rows.

Emerald Top Instructions:

★ Foundation Chain:
○ Using measurement 1 from the measurement section, chain the width of
your neckline.
○ Connect your last chain to your first chain with a slip stitch (sl st.), creating
a circle. Refer to the “helpful links” for a tutorial version of this step (#1).
■ This means we will crochet in the round, working in a continuous
circle.
★ Row 1:
○ Chain three (ch. 3), double crochet (dc.) in the next stitch, and every stitch
for the rest of the row.
★ Placing your stitch markers:
○ Have your project laid flat and centered in the middle. Pinch off two inches
of both ends of your work. In the left end of your project, place a stitch
marker in the front and back of your neckline at the two inch mark. Do the
same for the other end of your project at the two inch mark .
 Your neckline should look like this, having all four stitch markers
somewhat overlapping each other. My fingers are pointing at the two
inch mark on both sides.

★ Row 2:
○ Chain three (ch. 3) and double crochet (dc.) in the next stitch. Continue
double crocheting (dc.) in all stitches until you reach your first stitch
marker. Then double crochet (dc.), chain two (ch. 2), and double crochet
(dc.) all in the same marker stitch.
○ Double crochet (dc.) normally until you reach the second stitch marker.
Then repeat what you did for the first stitch marker: double crochet (dc.),
chain two (ch. 2), and double crochet (dc.) all in the same marker stitch.
○ Double crochet (dc.) normally until you reach the third stitch marker. Then
repeat what you did for the first stitch marker: double crochet (dc.), chain
two (ch. 2), and double crochet (dc.) all in the same marker stitch.
○ Double crochet (dc.) normally until you reach the fourth and final stitch
marker. Then repeat what you did for the first stitch marker: double crochet
(dc.), chain two (ch. 2), and double crochet (dc.) all in the same marker
stitch.
○ Double crochet normally for the rest of the row after the fourth stitch
marker.

★ Row 3:
 ○ Chain three (ch. 3), and double crochet (dc.) normally until you reach the
first stitch marker from the last row. Double crochet (dc.), chain two (ch. 2),
and double crochet (dc.) all in the same chain two stitch (or increase/hole)
from the previous row.
○ Repeat the previous step for the entirety of row 3.
★ Row 4-Length of measurement 2:
○ Repeat row 3 instruction until you reach the desired length of measurement
2 (Include rows 1-3 according to the measurement).
★ Final Row:
○ Chain three (ch. 3), and double crochet (dc.) normally until you reach the
first increase (stitch marker). Double crochet (dc.) in the increase (1st stitch
marker) and chain 15.
○ Skip all stitches until you reach the second increase (stitch marker), and
double crochet (dc.) in that increase (2nd stitch marker).
■ This should create a massive hole in your project for your arm.
Please try on the top for this part to have the best fit possible. If it is
too tight, chain less of the 15, and if it is too big, chain more of the
15.
○ Double crochet (dc.) normally until you reach the third increase (stitch
marker. Double crochet (dc.) in the increase (3rd stitch marker) and chain
the same amount you did for the previous step.
○ Skip all stitches until you reach the fourth and final increase (stitch marker),
and double crochet (dc.) in that increase (4th stitch marker)
○ Double crochet (dc.) normally for the rest of the final row.
★ Back straps
○ Your top at this moment should
look like a mini shrug or bolero. In order for it
to sit properly, pull the top down over your chest
and onto your bust, this is how it is supposed to
look.

Where my hands are pulling down the

top, is where you will add your straps to
tie at the back. There is not a specific
stitch where to input it in, as all bodies
are shaped differently hence why trying
on the top is essential.
 Here is the piece laid flat. What is circled is
where I have placed my straps.

★ Attaching straps
○ Create a slip knot, attach slip knot to your piece, and chain eighty (ch. 80)
or as many chains (ch.) that would sit comfortably tied around your back
○ Then hdc. in every stitch back down to make the strap thicker and cut off
your yarn.
○ Repeat this step for the opposing side
★ Final step
○ Weave in and cut all your ends and you are finished!
Item Description:
The Emerald Set is an intermediate crochet pattern that is perfect for the spring and
summer time. The pattern includes guided videos and instructions by me to create the top
and skirt (must use youtube for this pattern). It also includes links for certain stitches and
patterns to complete the look. This pattern is made to fit your body based on your
measurements, there is not a preset of xxs-xxxl instruction, hence making it size
inclusive. After purchasing the pattern, please don't hesitate to ask questions or
clarification through my different forms of social media and etsy, as I would be glad to
answer. This is an original made pattern by IridescentSav, and all rights and ownership
belongs to IridescentSav.