Marks & Spencer P1A

METHOD OF TEST

WASCATOR STABILITY WASHES

PURPOSE To determine stability of fabrics to washing.

APPARATUS 1. Wascator FOM 71S, 71MP, 71MP/LAB or 71 CLS

washing machine (see Equipment Index Ref: 11A,
13AC, 23E and 24R).

2. Stability template and percentage ruler (see

Equipment Index Ref: 9E and 9F, 11D, 13AA, 23R
and 24T).

3. Balance/scales which are capable of weighing up to

2kg in 25g graduations with a pan capable of holding
a 2kg load.

4. Overlock sewing machine.

5. Marks and Spencer standard makeweights (see

Equipment Index Ref: 11C, 13AB, 22A, 23T and
24U).

6. Flat bed press (see Equipment Index Ref: 13BG,

24AE and 37A).

7. Tumble dryer (see PG) (see Equipment Index Ref:

13Y, 23AD and 24S) (or domestic tumble dryer
which meets same specification).

8. Non-rusting mesh trays, large enough to lay a

specimen flat while drying/relaxing.

9. Metal ruler with mm graduations (see test method

PG).

TEST SPECIMEN Note:You are advised to read the whole of this section
before commencing specimen preparation.

All Fabrics
1. Avoid fabric within 50mm of the selvedges.

2. Place the template onto the fabric as described under

the different fabric types. Mark the specimen using
the procedure described below.

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The template consists of 12 slots (positions 1 to 12 on

the diagram) and 8 holes (positions 1 to 6, 9 and 10).
The distance between each pair of slots/holes is 350mm.

3. After marking the specimen IN THE NUMERICAL

SEQUENCE INDICATED IN THE DIAGRAMS
draw a line around the template. Cut along this line
without rounding off the corners to provide a
500mm square specimen for testing.

Woven or warp knit fabrics require only one thickness

of fabric. Position the template with one edge parallel to
the length direction of the fabric. Use a laundry marker to
mark through the slots onto the fabric. Overlock the
edges of woven specimens to prevent fraying, but do not
round off the corners.

Sliver knits and heavy pile fabrics with coated

backings require only one thickness of fabric. Position
the template with one edge parallel to the length direction
of the fabric. Use a texpen to mark the coated backing
through the holes. Overlock the edges to prevent fraying,
but do not round off the corners.

Weft knitted fabrics require either a double thickness of

tubular fabric or a single piece of fabric folded to give a
double thickness. Velours or brushed fabrics are prepared
with the pile side inside. Fold fabric selvedge to selvedge.
Position template parallel to the selvedge. (N.B. this may
not be parallel to the wales). Use a texpen to mark
through the holes onto one side of the double thickness of
fabric.

To prevent laddering, overlock the two thicknesses

together along the two sides in the length direction and
across one side in the width direction. Do not round off
corners.

Individually overlock the two layers of fabric on the fourth

side so as to form a bag.

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For narrow diameter (less than 500mm) tubular fabrics

the specimen width is limited to the natural width of the
fabric. Mark two sets of gauge marks in the length
direction using the template. Then, using a metric ruler,
measure and record the two width distances between these
gauge marks, to the nearest millimetre. In all other
respects, prepare the specimen as for weft knitted fabrics.

Garments and complete Homeware items (e.g.

towels) Mark two lengths and two widths approximately
25mm in from the side seams and the top or bottom of the
garment. Measure using a metric ru l e r; record these
measurements to the nearest millimetre.Trims and
attachments, e.g. collars, cuffs, welts and stolling should also
be measured where appropri ate. For knitwear, t u rn garments
inside out before marking and measuring. All garments must
be washed face side outwards and with all fastenings undone.

If ‘frame’ measurements are specified, refer to Method of

Test P2 ‘Stability Measurements using the Marks and
Spencer Measuring Frame’.

All flat measurements must be taken prior to measuring a

specimen on the frame.

ALL TEST SPECIMENS should be examined prior to

washing paying attention to those points quoted under
‘Appearance’ in the Results section.

WASH LOAD Test specimens, which must not comprise of more than
1kg, should be weighed and the load made up to 2kg by
the addition of sufficient makeweights (see note 1).

Fabric specimens must not be washed in the same load as

garments or complete Homeware items.

DETERGENT This is required for all washesexcept MSE, MSK, MSS

and MSTD. Mix approximately 50g (25g for MSW) of a
heavy-duty, low-lather, powder detergent containing optical
brightening agent in approximately 0.5 litres of wa rm
wat e r.

METHOD The Wascator should be set up as described in P1 Part A,

B, C or D “Preparation of Wascator for Stability Washes”.

Refer to the performance standards for the washing

stability and drying procedure to be carried out.

WASHING 1. Place the wash load in the Wascator. Ensure test

specimens are not folded. Close the door.

2. For Wascator FOM 71S.

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(a) Set the blue thermostat pointer to the temperature

specified in the performance standard. (For MSW
i.e BSEN ISO 6330: 2001, set the blue pointer to
40˚C and the yellow pointer to 50˚C.)
(b) Insert the appropriate M&S wash programme card.
OR
(a) For Wascator FOM 71MP select the stability
wash ROM and select the appropriate wash
programme.
(b) For Wascator FOM 71MP/LAB and 71 CLS
select the appropriate wash programme.
3. Start the Wascator and add the prepared detergent
mix (if required) by pouring it through the dispenser
when water is first visible in the sight tubes. This
will help keep the sight tubes clean and prevent
undissolved detergent collecting. (The Wascator 71
CLS does not have a sight tube).
4. At the end of the wash programme, remove the
specimens, taking care not to distort them.

DRYING The bracketed number in the performance standard

specifies the drying procedure, as follows:
i) Flat Dry.
Lay the specimens flat on mesh trays without
stretching. Dry at room temperature.
ii) Press Dry.
Without stretching press the specimen using the flat
bed press at the appropriate temperature:
Acrylic or Wool press at 120˚C
Other fibres press at 180˚C
iii) Tumble Dry
Clean the filter on the tumble dryer prior to use.
Remove 20 makeweights from the wash load to leave
a load equivalent to 1kg when dry. Tumble dry on
the HOT setting as follows:
Synthetics (Nylon, Polyester, - 45 min. minimum
Acetate)
Wool & Wool blends - 70 min. minimum
Cellulosics (including Viscose) - 90 min. minimum
and Cellulosic blends
In the case of fabrics comprised of blends of fibres,
the tumble drying time relates to the predominant
fibre or generic type.
The times, which include a 10 minute cool down
period, are necessary to completely dry the 1kg load.

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If the load is not dry after the minimum period,

continue until dry.

RELAXATION Lay the specimens individually on the mesh trays for a

minimum of 4 hours before measuring. Where only
frame measurements are specified relaxation is not
necessary.

RESULTS For specimens with FLAT measurements, the specimen

should be placed with the minimum of handling on an
adequately sized flat surface prior to re-measuring. This
should be the nearest corner bench, so that the stability
ruler can be viewed face on in each direction.

For all changes in dimension, indicate shrinkage as a

minus symbol (-) and extension as a plus symbol (+).
Dimensions should be quoted to the nearest millimetre;
percentages to the nearest 0.1 percent.

Fabric
When measuring stability specimens after washing, hold
the percentage ruler at an angle of approximately 45˚ to
fabric with the percentage scale against the specimen.
Record the change in dimension between the three length
marks and the three width marks. Do not move the
specimen. Do not place the ruler flat on the specimen.

Report the change in dimension by quoting:

(a) the average of the 3 lengths as a percentage
(b) the average of the 3 widths as a percentage
(c) the washing and drying procedures carried out

Where spirality of double thickness specimens has

occurred refer to Method of Test P1B. ‘Measurement of
spirality of Weft knitted fabrics and garments’.

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Garments, complete homeware items and narrow

diameter knitted fabrics

Re-measure and calculate the percentage change as

follows:-

(Original measurement - afterwash measurement) x100 = % change

Original measurement
Report:
(a) the washed dimension for each measurement
(b) the change of each length as a percentage
(c) the change of each width as a percentage
(d) the washing and drying procedures carried out

For specimens with FRAME measurements refer to

Method of Test P2 ‘Stability Measurements Using
Marks and Spencer Measuring Frame’.

Appearance
Comment on changes in appearance compared to the
original specimen, e.g. surface disturbance, colour loss or
pick up of optical brightening agents.

Queries should be investigated by the additional use of

appropriate Marks and Spencer test methods.

Shedding of Fibre
After measuring pile or brushed specimens examine both
sides of the specimen; report any significant shedding of fibre.

NOTES 1. It is not necessary to use dry makeweights as they

are known to individually weigh 50g when dry. For
this reason they should be counted when preparing
the 2kg wash load, not weighed.

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