Marks & Spencer P2

METHOD OF TEST

STABILITY MEASUREMENTS USING THE

MARKS AND SPENCER MEASURING FRAME

PURPOSE To measure knitted garments on an adjustable frame to

give results which take width fit potential into account.

APPARATUS 1. The Marks and Spencer Measuring Frame and

clamps (see Equipment Index Ref. 6A).

2. Metal Tape Measure.

TEST SPECIMEN Test garment or body blank as received (see Note 1).
Where flat measurements are required in addition to
framed, use the same specimen.

All flat marking and measuring must be completed prior

to framing.

When spirality occurs prior to framing, refer to Method of

Test P1B ‘Measurement of Spirality of Weft Knitted
Fabrics and Garments’.

FRAME SETTING Place the garment face side out on a dry flat surface.
Fasten any buttons, zips etc. At 1cm beneath the armhole
measure the full flat width of the specimen. Record this
measurement. Double this measurement. This is the first
frame setting. The second side of the frame should be one
setting below this.

METHOD 1. Gently place the garment over the frame so the side
seams fit down the edges of the frame and the
top/shoulder seams align on the top.

2. With the weighted side of the clamp against the

frame, hang the clamps on the bottom of the garm e n t ,
f i rst two at the front, then two at the back gripping
approximately 5mm of fabric. Place them so they
distribute their weight evenly over the garment.

3. After approximately 5 seconds carefully remove the

clamps in the sequence they have been hung, i.e. first
on, first off.

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4. Wait 5 seconds; record the average of the 2 lengths

to the nearest mm where the back and front of the
garment aligns with the measure on the frame.

Where the front and back of the garment are of different

construction:
e.g., Intarsia front or cardigan.

Report the front and back measurements separately.

5. Wash and dry the specimen according to the

requirements of the performance specification.
For procedure see Method of Test P1A “Wascator
Stability Washes”.

Note: Where only FRAME measurements are

required it is not necessary to relax the
specimen after tumble drying.

6. If spirality measurements are required, refer to

Method of Test P1B ‘Measurement of Spirality of
Weft Knitted Fabrics and Garments’. All flat and
spirality measurements must be taken prior to
re-framing.

Adjust the frame to the setting used prior to washing

and repeat points 1 to 4. Calculate the percentage
change.

Original measurement – After washing measurement x 100 = % change

ori ginal measurement

Where front and back of the garment are of different

construction calculate the individual percentage
changes for front and back.

RESULTS Report the following:-

1. The stability wash carried out.

2. (i) The flat chest measurement in cm.

(ii) The frame circumference.

3. Either:-

(i) The average of the two lengths to the nearest

mm before washing.
(ii) The average of the two lengths to the nearest
mm after washing.
(iii) The percentage change between (i) and (ii).

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or:-

Where front and back of the garment are of different

construction report:-

(i) The front measurement to the nearest mm

before washing.
(ii) The front measurement to the nearest mm
after washing.
(iii) The percentage change between (i) and (ii).

and

(iv) The back measurement to the nearest mm

before washing.
(v) The back measurement to the nearest mm after
washing.
(vi) The percentage change between (iv) and (v).

Record any distortion of the specimen after washing, e.g.

excessive shrinkage of the front stolling on a cardigan.

4. Specimens which extend in width after

washing. After framing and measuring some knitted
constructions show width extension, this should be
reported.

NOTE 1. To prepare a body blank from a panel of Knitwear

fabric.

(i) Fold the panel in two, face inside, along the

courses or wales.
(ii) Using an M&S stability template as a template,
prepare a specimen 500mm in the Width
direction and 650mm in the lengh direction.
(iii) Overlock the two thicknesses together along
two length and one width sides.
Individually overlock the two layers of fabric on
the fourth side so as to form a bag.
(iv) Turn the prepared body blank face side out.
(v) Approximately 200mm from the top of the
body blank, measure the full flat width of the
body blank in cm.
Record this measurement.
Double this measurement
This is the first frame setting. The second side
of the frame should be one below this.
(vi) Follow METHOD procedure, as for gamrents.

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