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Agasalhos e Bugalhos

yarn creations and designs


Back to School Kids Jacket
Sizes: 0-24 months
(Includes the seamed and the seamless version)

©Agasalhos e Bugalhos 2021

- Pattern information (page 2)

- Seamed version (pages 3-14)

- Seamless version (pages 15-21)

- Optional regular buttonholes (page 10)

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Agasalhos e Bugalhos
Size Yarn (Katia Merino Aran)
yarn creations and designs
0-3m ±160g/ ±250m – c1:150m + c2:80m + c3:20m

This pattern is FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY! The 3-6m ±190g/ ±290m – c1:180m + c2:90m + c3:20m

pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, 6-12m ±230g/ ±360m – c1:215m + c2:115m + c3:30m
distributed or resold, translated, published, altered, 12-24m ±270g/ ±420m – c1:240m + c2:140m + c3:40m
shared or posted (for sale or free) over the internet or
offline! - 5mm (US 8) straight or circular needles
You can sell items made from this pattern, provided - 4mm (US 6) straight or circular needles
that they are handmade by yourself and you give credit - 5 x 5mm (US 8) DPN's to use as auxiliary to join
to the designer. the shoulders if you are working the seamless
version.
Expert Level: Advanced Beginner - Tapestry needle, detachable stitch markers
Sizes and approx. finished measurements: - Scissors, measuring tape
Sleeve Length - ± 4 (4, 5, 5) plastic snaps (or buttons, if you
Total Height Chest Body
from the work the regular buttonholes) and pliers for the
Size (from shoulder width width
underarm to the plastic snaps (I use the ones from KAM), in
to bottom rib) (flat) (flat)
wrist rib
alternative you can use metallic snap fasteners/sewn
±25cm ±16cm ±21cm ±26cm
0-3m on snaps that are sewn to the knitted fabric.
±10" ±6,25" ±8,25" ±10,25"
- Optional: grosgrain ribbon with 2,5cm /1” of
±28cm ±18cm ±23cm ±27cm
3-6m width to sew on the back of the button bands(±50-
±11" ±7" ±9" ±10,75"
75cm /±19,75”-29,5”).
±32cm ±21cm ±26cm ±31cm
6-12m
±12,5" ±8,25" ±10,25" ±12,25" It's the total height of the jacket x 2.
12- ±35cm ±24cm ±28cm ±34cm
Abbreviations:
24m ±13,75" ±9,5" ±11" ±13,5"
approx. – approximately
cm – centimeters
Tension: 17 stitches x 24 rows = 10cm / 4” in
K – knit
stockinette stitch with 5mm (US 8) needles.
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together (decreases 1 st)
Please complete a tension square.
P – purl
PM – place marker
Materials:
RS - right side
- Suggested yarns: Aran weight yarn
SM – slip marker
Katia Merino Aran (approx. 100g/155m) SSK – slip slip knit (decreases 1 st)
Drops Nepal or Big Merino (approx. 50g/75m) st(s) – stitch(es)
Rosários 4 Bio Wool (approx. 50g/72m) WS – wrong side
YO – yarn over (makes a new stitch)
Please note that on the photos the colours are:
- colour 1 (c1): mustard (seamed version) Note: All the sizes of this pattern were tested and
- colour 1 (c1): bottle green (seamless version) I did my best to ensure that these instructions are
- colour 2 (c2): grey accurate and complete. However I cannot be
- colour 3 (c3): pearl responsible for variations in individual work,
typographical errors, or if the specified yarn weight
recommended for this pattern has not been used.
It is very important that you complete a tension
square with the yarn and needles of your preference.
2
SIZES: 0-3m (3-6m, 6-12m, 12-24m) BACK BODY
Change to the 5mm (US 8) needles
SEAMED VERSION We will work with colour 1 until the shoulders.
The Back to School Kids Jacket is knitted flat from Row 11 (RS): Knit all sts.
the bottom up in separate pieces that are sewn Row 12 (WS): Purl all sts.
together. We start with the back piece, then front
Repeat these last 2 rows, until the work
pieces. They are joined by sewing them together at
measures approx. 14 (16, 19, 21) cm /
the shoulders. Then the sleeve stitches are picked up
5,5”(6,25”, 7,5”, 8,25”) from the beginning,
and knitted directly from the armholes edges.
at the cast on, ending on a WS row.
We will use 3 colours on this jacket. The body and
sleeves are knitted in different colours. The ribs have Place 2 pieces of contrasting yarn or detachable
also contrasting stripes and, in order to get “clean”
markers on each side of work, so when you pick
stripes when alternating colours, you will find some
up the sts for the sleeves, you know where to
knit rows between the ribbing rows. What happens is
start/end.
that we knit all the stitches from the first row (RS),
after we change the colour and then, from the second
row on, we continue with the ribbing, until we change
colours again.

Colours In the pattern photos Your colours

Colour 1 (c1) Mustard


Colour 2 (c2) Grey
Colour 3 (c3) Pearl

BACK BOTTOM RIB


Start with the 4mm (US 6) needles
BACK UNDERARM DECREASES
With Colour 1, cast on 44 (48, 52, 56) sts. These decreases are very subtle but they will
help to better shape the sleeves later.
Rows 1-4 (RS + WS + RS + WS) (colour 1):
Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, SSK, Knit until 5
(K1, P1) repeat until the end of the row.
sts remain, K2tog, K2tog, K1.
Row 5 (RS) (colour 3): Knit all sts. Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Row 6 (WS) (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until You have 40 (44, 48, 52) sts.
the end of the row.
Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, SSK, Knit until 5
Row 7 (RS) (colour 2): Knit all sts. sts remain, K2tog, K2tog, K1.
Row 8 (WS) (colour 2): (K1, P1) repeat until Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
the end of the row. You have 36 (40, 44, 48) sts.

Row 9 (RS) (colour 3): Knit all sts.


Row 10 (WS) (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until
the end of the row.

3
BACK CHEST AND SHOULDERS LEFT FRONT BODY
Next Row (RS): Knit all sts. Change to the 5mm (US 8) needles
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts. We will work with colour 1 until the shoulder.
Repeat these last 2 rows until the work Row 11 (RS): Knit all sts.
measures approx. 11 (12, 13, 14) cm / 4,25” Row 12 (WS): Purl all sts.
(4,75”, 5”, 5,5”) from the markers that you Repeat these last 2 rows, until the work
placed before the underarm decreases, ending on a measures approx. 14 (16, 19, 21) cm /
WS row. 5,5”(6,25”, 7,5”, 8,25”) from the beginning at
the cast on, ending on a WS row.
(RS): Bind off all sts and cut the yarn.
Place a piece of contrasting yarn or detachable
marker on the right side of the work, so when
you pick up the sts for the left sleeve, you know
where to start.

Your back piece should measure approx. 25 (28,


32, 35) cm / 10” (11”, 12,5”, 13,75”) from the
cast on to the shoulders.

LEFT FRONT BOTTOM RIB


Start with the 4mm (US 6) needles LEFT FRONT UNDERARM DECREASES

With Colour 1, cast on 20 (22, 24, 26) sts. These decreases are very subtle but they will
help to better shape the sleeves later.
Rows 1-4 (RS + WS + RS + WS) (colour 1):
(K1, P1) repeat until the end of the row. Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, SSK, Knit until the
end of the row.
Row 5 (RS) (colour 3): Knit all sts. Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Row 6 (WS) (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until You have 18 (20, 22, 24) sts.
the end of the row.
Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, SSK, Knit until the
Row 7 (RS) (colour 2): Knit all sts. end of the row.
Row 8 (WS) (colour 2): (K1, P1) repeat until Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
the end of the row. You have 16 (18, 20, 22) sts.

Row 9 (RS) (colour 3): Knit all sts.


Row 10 (WS) (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until
the end of the row.

4
LEFT FRONT CHEST LEFT FRONT SHOULDER
Next Row (RS): Knit all sts. You only need to work this section if you haven't
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts. achieved the required measurements below.
Repeat these last 2 rows until the work You have 10 (10, 12, 14) sts
measures approx. 7 (7, 8, 9) cm / 2,75” Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.
(2,75”, 3,25”, 3,5”) from the marker that you Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
placed before the underarm decreases, ending on a Repeat these last 2 rows until the work
WS row. measures approx. 11 (12, 13, 14) cm / 4,25”
(4,75”, 5”, 5,5”) from the markers that you
Place 1 piece of contrasting yarn or detachable placed before the underarm decreases, ending on a
marker on the left side of work, so when you pick WS row.
up the sts for the buttonholes band, you know You should have the same number of rows that you
where to start. have at the back, from the marker to the shoulders.
(RS): Bind off all sts and cut the yarn, leaving
a long tail to sew the shoulder seams together.

LEFT FRONT COLLAR DECREASES


Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.
Next Row (WS): Bind off 2 sts purlwise, Purl
until the end of the row.
Repeat these last 2 rows until you have left 10
(10, 12, 14) sts.

RIGHT FRONT BOTTOM RIB


Start with the 4mm (US 6) needles

With Colour 1, cast on 20 (22, 24, 26) sts.

Rows 1-4 (RS + WS + RS + WS) (colour 1):


(K1, P1) repeat until the end of the row.

Row 5 (RS) (colour 3): Knit all sts.


Row 6 (WS) (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until
the end of the row.

Row 7 (RS) (colour 2): Knit all sts.


Row 8 (WS) (colour 2): (K1, P1) repeat until
the end of the row.

5
Row 9 (RS) (colour 3): Knit all sts. RIGHT FRONT UNDERARM DECREASES
Row 10 (WS) (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until These decreases are very subtle but they will
the end of the row. help to better shape the sleeves later.

Next Row (RS): Knit until 5 sts remain,


K2tog, K2tog, K1.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
You have 18 (20, 22, 24) sts.

Next Row (RS): Knit until 5 sts remain,


RIGHT FRONT BODY K2tog, K2tog, K1.
Change to the 5mm (US 8) needles Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
We will work with colour 1 until the shoulder. You have 16 (18, 20, 22) sts.
Row 11 (RS): Knit all sts.
Row 12 (WS): Purl all sts.
Repeat these last 2 rows, until the work
measures approx. 14 (16, 19, 21) cm /
5,5”(6,25”, 7,5”, 8,25”) from the beginning at
the cast on, ending on a WS row.

Place a piece of contrasting yarn or a detachable


marker on the left side of work, so when you pick
up the sts for the right sleeve, you know where to
RIGHT FRONT CHEST
end.
Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Repeat these last 2 rows until the work
measures approx. 7 (7, 8, 9) cm / 2,75”
(2,75”, 3,25”, 3,5”) from the marker that you
placed before the underarm decreases, ending on a
WS row.

Place 1 piece of contrasting yarn or detachable


marker on the right side of work, so when you
pick up the sts for the buttons band, you know
where to end.

6
RIGHT FRONT COLLAR DECREASES ASSEMBLING THE BODY PIECES
Next Row (RS): Bind off 2 sts knitwise, knit Unite the front pieces to the back by sewing
until the end of the row. them together on the shoulders. I advise you to
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts. use the mattress stitch method, but you can use any
Repeat these last 2 rows until you have left 10 technique you like.

(10, 12, 14) sts.

RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER


You only need to work this section if you haven't
achieved the required measurements below.
You have 10 (10, 12, 14) sts

Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.


Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Repeat these last 2 rows until the work
measures approx. 11 (12, 13, 14) cm / 4,25”
(4,75”, 5”, 5,5”) from the markers that you
placed before the underarm decreases, ending on a
WS row. SLEEVES
You should have the same number of rows that you Start with the 5mm (US 8) needles

have at the back, from the marker to the shoulders. Using colour 2, with the RS of the work facing
(RS): Bind off all sts and cut the yarn, leaving up, pick up and knit 40 (44, 48, 52) sts from
a long tail to sew the shoulder seams together. the edges between the underarm decrease markers.

You pick up approx. 3 stitches for every 4 rows.


Right sleeve: you start picking up the sts from
the back towards the right front.
Left sleeve: you start picking up the sts from
the left front towards the back.

7
I am going to start with the left sleeve. SLEEVES
Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Repeat these last two rows, working at
the same time the sleeve decrease rows**, until
the sleeve measures approx. 13 (15, 18, 21) cm /
5” (6”, 7”, 8,25”), from the beginning of the
sleeve, where you picked up the stitches from the
armhole, ending on a wrong side row.

The sleeve decrease rows** are knitted as follows:


Set up row (WS): Purl all sts. Sleeve Decrease Row (RS): K1, K2tog, Knit
until 3 sts remain, SSK, K1.
SLEEVE UNDERARM DECREASES Each decrease row is worked at the measurement

Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, SSK, Knit until 5 sts indicated at the chart below:
remain, K2tog, K2tog, K1. Sleeve Decrease Rows
Size start measuring from the beginning of the
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
sleeve, at the shoulder
You have 36 (40, 44, 48) sts.
2 decrease rows (-4 sts),
0-3m ±6,5cm, ±13cm
Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, SSK, Knit until 5 sts ±2,5”, ±5”
remain, K2tog, K2tog, K1. 2 decrease rows (-4 sts),
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts. 3-6m ±7,5cm, ±15cm

You have 32 (36, 40, 44) sts. ±3”, ±6”


4 decrease rows (-8 sts),
6-12m ±4,5cm, ±9cm, ±13,5cm, ±18cm
±1,75”, ±3,5”, ±5,25”, ±7”
4 decrease rows (-8 sts),
12-24m ±6cm, ±11cm, ±16cm, ±21cm
±2,5”, ±4,25”, ±6,25”, ±8,25”

You have 28 (32, 32, 36) sts.

8
WRIST RIB Sew the sleeve and body seams together, using
Change to the 4mm / US 6 needles the mattress stitch method.
Suggestion: As the body and the sleeves were
Row 1 (RS) (colour 3): Knit all sts. worked in different colours, you can use the yarn
tail of the sleeve to sew the sleeve seam until the
Row 2 (WS) (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until underarm and then use yarn from the same colour
the end of the row. as the body to sew the body seam. Even if you are
using an invisible seam it would look better on the

Row 3 (RS) (colour 1): Knit all sts. WS...but you can do as you prefer.

Row 4 (WS) (colour 1): (K1, P1) repeat until


the end of the row.

Row 5 (RS) (colour 3): Knit all sts.

Row 6 (WS) (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until


the end of the row.

Row 7 (RS) (colour 2): Knit all sts.

Rows 8-12 (WS + RS + WS + RS + WS)


(colour 2): (K1, P1) repeat until the end of the
row.

(RS): Bind off all the sts in pattern and cut


the yarn, leaving a long tail in order to sew the Repeat all the previous steps for the other

sleeve and body seam. I advise you to use an elastic sleeve.


method but you can use the technique you prefer.

9
BUTTON BANDS “Buttonholes” Band – Left side Band
Use the 4mm / US6 needles Starting at the collar top left edge, at the
With the right side of work facing out, we will collar decreases marker of the left front, you
pick up and knit the sts for the button bands should pick up and knit exactly the same number
from the edge stitches, from the bottom edge to of sts as on the right side band: approx. 50 (56,
the beginning of the collar decreases. 64, 72) sts.
On this pattern I used plastic snaps but you can
Plastic Snaps (without buttonholes)
use those metallic ones that are sewn into the
Rows 1-7 (WS + RS + WS + RS + WS + RS +
knitted fabric. I also give optional instructions to
WS): (P1, K1) repeat until the end of the row.
work regular buttonholes and use buttons.
Suggestion: You can add/sew grosgrain ribbon on the (RS): Bind off in pattern and cut the yarn.
WS of the buttons bands to give the knitted fabric
more stability when you apply the snaps.

Regular buttonholes (with buttonholes)


Please note that these instructions are for the
recommended number of sts/buttons: 50 (56, 64,
72) sts and 4, 4, 5, 5 buttons. You can rearrange
“Buttons” Band – Right Side Band the instructions as you prefer.
Using colour 1 and starting at the edge of the Rows 1-3 (WS + RS + WS): (P1, K1) repeat
right front bottom rib, pick up sts to the marker until the end of the row.
before the collar decreases. You should pick up and
knit EVERY single stitch approx. 50 (56, 64, Row 4 (RS) (buttonholes):
72) sts. P1, *[K2tog, YO, (K1, P1 x 6, 7, 6, 7 times)]*
Note: If you can't pick up exactly the same amount of x 3, 3, 4, 4 times from *to*, K2tog, YO, K1,
sts, you need at least to have multiples of 2. (P1, K1) x 2, 2, 2, 2 times.

Rows 1-7 (WS + RS + WS + RS + WS + RS + Rows 5-7 (WS + RS + WS): (P1, K1) repeat
WS): (K1, P1) repeat until the end of the row. until the end of the row.

(RS): Bind off in pattern and cut the yarn. (RS): Bind off in pattern and cut the yarn.

10
COLLAR RIB From Row 2 on, at the end of each row, we will
Use the 4mm / US 6 circular needle pick up and knit 2 sts of the right/left side bands
With the right side of work facing out, we will top edges. In total, we will pick up and knit 8 sts
pick up and knit the sts for the collar rib from from each band top edge...so try to space the
right after the end of the right side band (right picked up sts evenly in order to have enough space
front collar) to right before the beginning of the to pick up stitches on the last few rows.

left side band (left front collar). Here you have


to be a little creative and try to space the sts
evenly.

Row 2 (colour 3) (RS of the cardigan): Knit


all sts. Pick up and KNIT 2 sts from the left side
band. Turn the work.
You have 48 (54, 60, 62) sts.
(RS): Using colour 1, pick up and knit the
following approx. number of sts for each section:
Right front collar: 14 (16, 18, 18) sts

Back collar: 18 (20, 22, 24) sts (must be an


even number)
Left front collar: 14 (16, 18, 18) sts (must be
the same number as on the right front collar)

You will have a total of 46 (52, 58, 60) sts.

Row 3 (colour 3) (WS of the cardigan): (K1,


P1) repeat until the end of the row. Pick up and
PURL 2 sts from the right side band. Turn the
work. You have 50 (56, 62, 64) sts.

Row 1 (c1) (WS of the cardigan): (K1, P1)


repeat until the end of the row.

11
Row 4 (colour 2) (RS of the cardigan): Knit all Weave in all the yarn ends.
sts. Pick up and KNIT 2 sts from the left side
You can block the piece if you like.
band. Turn the work. You have 52 (58, 64, 66)
sts. If you are going to use snaps, place detachable
markers, evenly spaced out, where you would like
Row 5 (colour 2) (WS of the cardigan): (K1,
to place the snaps. I advise you to use 4 (4, 5,
P1) repeat until the end of the row. Pick up and
5) plastic snaps, but you can use as many as you
PURL 2 sts from the right side band. Turn the
like.
work. You have 54 (60, 66, 68) sts.
Suggestion: Apply grosgrain ribbon on the back side of

Row 6 (colour 3) (RS of the cardigan): Knit all the button bands. This will give more stability to the
band and avoid pulling the knitted fabric when opening
sts. Pick up and KNIT 2 sts from the left side
the snaps. Check the next page to see how to do it.
band Turn the work. You have 56 (62, 68, 70)
sts.

Row 7 (colour 3) (WS of the cardigan): (K1,


P1) repeat until the end of the row. Pick up and
PURL 2 sts from the right side band. Turn the
work. You have 58 (64, 70, 72) sts.

Row 8 (colour 1) (RS of the cardigan ): Knit all


sts. Pick up and KNIT 2 sts from the left side
band. Turn the work. You have 60 (66, 72, 74)
sts.

Row 9 (colour 1) (WS of the cardigan): (K1,


P1) repeat until the end of the row. Pick up and
PURL 2 sts from the right side band. Turn the
work. You have 62 (68, 74, 76) sts.
This is how it looks with the plastic snap:

(RS): Bind off all stitches in pattern loosely and


cut the yarn.

Suggestion: If you decide to use the metallic snaps


and sew them to the knitted fabric, you can even sew
a button on the RS of the left side band, on the
same place as the snap that is on the WS...so it looks
like the cardigan has buttons.
12
REINFORCE THE BUTTON BANDS Then, we use some sewing pins to secure the
WITH GROSGRAIN RIBBON ribbon in place, on the WS of the band.
If you are going to use snaps on your button I suggest you place it between the little ridge
bands, I recommend that you reinforce them with formed by the picked up sts and the lateral edge
grosgrain ribbon (it may also be petersham of the band.
ribbon). Try to keep the band with the correct tension
By sewing the ribbon on the WS of the bands we and shape. As the jacket is blocked it shouldn't be
are stabilising it and preparing it to apply the too difficult.
snaps. Don't forget to fold over the top and bottom of
The ribbon will help to avoid that the button the ribbon.
bands stretch too much and become deformed
with the constant use. It also prevents damage to
the stitches where the snap is applied.
I also recommend that you apply the ribbon after
blocking the jacket, so it won't end up too short.

I made a small video tutorial showing how you can


apply the grosgrain ribbon on the button bands if
you like to see it:
Check the video tutorial

I used a ribbon with a width of 2,5cm/1”.


We cut the ribbon with a bit more length than
the length of the band. Cut the other ribbon with
the same length for the other side and put it
aside.
The edges of the ribbon will be folded under, in
order to prevent it from fraying and give it a Double thread a sewing needle using a thread
better finish. with the same colour as ribbon.

Starting on the inner side, where the little


ridge from the picked up sts is, we start sewing
the ribbon to the knitted fabric using a technique
called whip stitch. You can use the band sts as
guide to keep them evenly apart, making sure the
ribbon is flat. Sew the ribbon to the band all
around the band, until you get to the start
point.

13
And that's it...this is how the WS of the band CONGRATULATIONS!!
looks when we finish. We are now ready to apply You have just knitted a beautiful kids jacket!
the snaps.

And then with the snaps:

If you need any information or have any questions


regarding this pattern, feel free to contact me.
I will be happy to help you.

Share your progress photos or finished work


online.
Tag @agasalhosebugalhos or #agasalhosebugalhos
#backtoschoolkidsjacket on Instagram.
https://www.instagram.com/agasalhosebugalhos

Wait...did you mess up while applying a plastic


snap?! Don't worry...it happens. Here's a small I hope you enjoy this pattern!!

video with a little trick to remove it. You just


need a staple remover and some patience... With love

Check the video tutorial Sandra


14
SIZES: 0-3m (3-6m, 6-12m, 12-24m) BODY
SEAMLESS VERSION Change to the 5mm (US 8) needles

This is the seamless version of The Back to School We will work with colour 1 until the shoulders.
Kids Jacket. On this version, the body is knitted in Row 11 (RS): Knit all sts.
one piece until the armhole, then each section is Row 12 (WS): Purl all sts.
worked separately until the shoulders. Repeat these last 2 rows, until the work
The shoulders are united using the 3 needle bind off measures approx. 14 (16, 19, 21) cm /
or the Kitchener stitch technique.Then the sleeve 5,5”(6,25”, 7,5”, 8,25”) from the beginning,
stitches are picked up and knitted directly from the at the cast on, ending on a WS row.
armholes edges and we knit them in the round.

We will use 3 colours on this jacket. The body and


sleeves are knitted in different colours. The ribs have
also contrasting stripes and, in order to get “clean”
stripes when alternating colours, you will find some
knit rows between the ribbing rows. What happens is
that we knit all the stitches from the first row (RS),
after we change the colour and then, from the second
row on, we continue with the ribbing, until we change SEPARATE THE FRONT AND BACK SECTIONS
colours again. Now we are going to work separately the back
and front sections of the cardigan.
Colours In the pattern photos Your colours
We will start with the right front, then the
Colour 1 (c1) Bottle Green
back, then the left front.
Colour 2 (c2) Grey
Colour 3 (c3) Pearl We will divide the sts in 3: right front, back,
left front. Using two stitch holders we will pass
BOTTOM RIB the last 20 (22, 24, 26) sts (left front sts)
Start with the 4mm (US 6) needles
to the first stitch holder. Then, we pass the
With Colour 1, cast on 84 (92, 100, 108) sts. next last 44 (48, 52, 56) sts (back sts) to the
second stitch holder.
Rows 1-4 (RS + WS + RS + WS) (colour 1):
(K1, P1) repeat until the end of the row.
You are left with 20 (22, 24, 26) sts (right
Row 5 (RS) (colour 3): Knit all sts. front sts) on your working needles, and these are
Row 6 (WS) (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until the sts we will start working.
the end of the row.

Row 7 (RS) (colour 2): Knit all sts.


Row 8 (WS) (colour 2): (K1, P1) repeat until
the end of the row.

Row 9 (RS) (colour 3): Knit all sts.


Row 10 (WS) (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until
the end of the row.

15
RIGHT FRONT RIGHT FRONT COLLAR DECREASES
RIGHT FRONT UNDERARM DECREASES Next Row (RS): Bind off 2 sts knitwise, knit
These decreases are very subtle but they will help until the end of the row.
to better shape the sleeves later. Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Repeat these last 2 rows until you have left 10
Next Row (RS): Knit until 5 sts remain,
(10, 12, 14) sts.
K2tog, K2tog, K1.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
You have 18 (20, 22, 24) sts.
RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER
Next Row (RS): Knit until 5 sts remain, Knit You only need to work this section if you haven't
until 5 sts remain, K2tog, K2tog, K1. achieved the required measurements below.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts. You have 10 (10, 12, 14) sts
You have 16 (18, 20, 22) sts.
Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Repeat these last 2 rows until the work
measures approx. 11 (12, 13, 14) cm / 4,25”
(4,75”, 5”, 5,5”) from the beginning of the
underarm decreases, ending on a WS row.

Cut the yarn and place the sts on a stitch


holder so we can join them to the back shoulder
later.
RIGHT FRONT CHEST
Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Repeat these last 2 rows until the work
measures approx. 7 (7, 8, 9) cm / 2,75”
(2,75”, 3,25”, 3,5”) from the beginning of the
underarm decreases, ending on a WS row.

Place 1 piece of contrasting yarn or detachable


marker on the right side of work, so when you
pick up the sts for the buttons band, you know
where to end.

16
BACK BACK CHEST AND SHOULDERS
Pass the back sts, 44 (48, 52, 56) sts, that Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.
were on hold, to your working needles. Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.

Rejoin the yarn to start working on the RS. Repeat these last 2 rows until the work
measures approx. 11 (12, 13, 14) cm / 4,25”
(4,75”, 5”, 5,5”) from the beginning of the
underarm decreases, ending on a WS row.

Cut the yarn. Place the sts on a stitch holder


so we can join them to the front shoulders later.

BACK UNDERARM DECREASES


These decreases are very subtle but they will help
to better shape the sleeves later.

Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, SSK, Knit until 5 sts


remain, K2tog, K2tog, K1.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
You have 40 (44, 48, 52) sts.
LEFT FRONT
Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, SSK, Knit until 5 sts Pass the left front sts, 20 (22, 24, 26) sts,
remain, K2tog, K2tog, K1. that were on hold, to your working needles.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Rejoin the yarn to start working on the RS.
You have 36 (40, 44, 48) sts.

17
LEFT FRONT UNDERARM DECREASES LEFT FRONT COLLAR DECREASES
These decreases are very subtle but they will help Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.
to better shape the sleeves later. Next Row (WS): Bind off 2 sts purlwise, Purl
until the end of the row.
Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, SSK, Knit until the
Repeat these last 2 rows until you have left 10
end of the row.
(10, 12, 14) sts.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
You have 18 (20, 22, 24) sts.
LEFT FRONT SHOULDER
Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, SSK, Knit until the You only need to work this section if you haven't
end of the row. achieved the required measurements below.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts. You have 10 (10, 12, 14) sts
You have 16 (18, 20, 22) sts. Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Repeat these last 2 rows until the work
measures approx. 11 (12, 13, 14) cm / 4,25”
(4,75”, 5”, 5,5”) from the beginning of the
underarm decreases, ending on a WS row.

Option 1: If you are going to use the 3 needle


bind off technique to join the shoulders together
(see page 18), don't cut the yarn.
Option 2: If you are going to use the kitchener
stitch to join the shoulders together (see page
LEFT FRONT CHEST
18), cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, in order to
Next Row (RS): Knit all sts.
join the shoulders together.
Next Row (WS): Purl all sts.
Repeat these last 2 rows until the work
measures approx. 7 (7, 8, 9) cm / 2,75”
(2,75”, 3,25”, 3,5”) from the beginning of the
underarm decreases, ending on a WS row.

Place 1 piece of contrasting yarn or detachable


marker on the left side of work, so when you pick
up the sts for the buttonholes band, you know
where to start.

18
JOINING THE FRONT AND BACK SECTIONS
ON THE SHOULDERS
We will join the work on the shoulders, uniting
the right and left front shoulders with the back.

First pass the right front sts that were on hold


to an auxiliary needle.

Then we will divide the back sts in 3 auxiliary


needles:
- Right back: 10 (10, 12, 14) sts.
- Center Back: 16 (20, 20, 20) sts.
- Left back: 10 (10, 12, 14) sts.

We can keep the left front sts on the working


needle.
And this is the result:

Option 1
To unite the left and right front shoulder to
the left and right back shoulder you can use the 3 SLEEVES
needle bind off technique and, to bind off the Use the 5mm (US 8) circular or double pointed needles
back stitches, you can use the cable bind off: I like to use the Magic Loop technique, but you can
- Left front shoulder + Left Back shoulder: 3 needle use the method you prefer.
bind off
Using colour 2, with the RS of the work facing
- Center Back: cable bind off technique
up, pick up and knit 40 (44, 48, 52) sts from
- Right front shoulder + Right Back shoulder: 3
needle bind off the edge around the armhole opening.
Note: The work must be with the WS facing out. If necessary, place a BOR marker.
Check the video tutorial
You pick up approx. 3 stitches for every 4 rows.
Option 2
To unite the left and right front shoulder to
the left and right back shoulder you can use the
kitchener stitch technique and, to bind off the
back stitches, you can use the sewn bind off:
- Left front shoulder + Left Back shoulder:
kitchener stitch technique
- Center Back: sewn bind off technique
- Right front shoulder + Right Back shoulder:
kitchener stitch technique Set up round: Knit all sts.
Check the video tutorial 19
SLEEVE UNDERARM DECREASES Each decrease round is worked at the measurement
Next Round: SSK, SSK, Knit until 4 sts indicated at the chart below:

remain, K2tog, K2tog. Sleeve Decrease Rounds


Size start measuring from the beginning of the
Next Round: Knit all sts.
sleeve, at the shoulder
You have 36 (40, 44, 48) sts.
2 decrease rounds (-4 sts),
Next Round: SSK, SSK, Knit until 4 sts 0-3m ±6,5cm, ±13cm
±2,5”, ±5”
remain, K2tog, K2tog.
2 decrease rounds (-4 sts),
Next Round: Knit all sts.
3-6m ±7,5cm, ±15cm
You have 32 (36, 40, 44) sts. ±3”, ±6”
4 decrease rounds (-8 sts),
6-12m ±4,5cm, ±9cm, ±13,5cm, ±18cm
±1,75”, ±3,5”, ±5,25”, ±7”
4 decrease rounds (-8 sts),
12-24m ±6cm, ±11cm, ±16cm, ±21cm
±2,5”, ±4,25”, ±6,25”, ±8,25”

You have 28 (32, 32, 36) sts.

Next Round: Knit all sts.


Repeat this last round, working at the
same time the sleeve decrease rounds**, until the
sleeve measures approx. 13 (15, 18, 21) cm / 5”
(6”, 7”, 8,25”), from the beginning of the
sleeve, where you picked up the stitches from the
armhole.

The sleeve decrease rounds** are knitted as follows:


Sleeve Decrease Round: K2tog, Knit until 2 sts
WRIST RIB
remain, SSK.
Change to the 4mm / US 6 needles
Round 1 (colour 3): Knit all sts.

Round 2 (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until the


end of the round.

Round 3 (colour 1): Knit all sts.

Round 4 (colour 1): (K1, P1) repeat until the


end of the round.

Round 5 (colour 3): Knit all sts.


20
Round 6 (colour 3): (K1, P1) repeat until the CONGRATULATIONS!!
end of the round. You have just knitted a beautiful kids jacket!

Round 7 (colour 2): Knit all sts.

Rounds 8-12 (colour 2): (K1, P1) repeat until


the end of the round.

(RS): Bind off all the sts in pattern and cut


the yarn. I advise you to use an elastic method but
you can use the technique you prefer.

Repeat all the previous steps for the other


sleeve. If you need any information or have any questions
regarding this pattern, feel free to contact me.
To continue with the BUTTON BANDS and the I will be happy to help you.
COLLAR please go back to page 10
There you can also find optional instructions to Share your progress photos or finished work
work regular buttonholes. online.
From there on the instructions are the same both
on the seamed and on the seamless version. Tag @agasalhosebugalhos or #agasalhosebugalhos
#backtoschoolkidsjacket on Instagram.
https://www.instagram.com/agasalhosebugalhos

I hope you enjoy this pattern!!

With love
Sandra

21

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