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file 5.7.24, 18 32 52
file 5.7.24, 18 32 52
file 5.7.24, 18 32 52

Les Kenny May 4, 2021 9

Contents
Preface
Kentucky Stick Chair
Introduction
Materials and cutting list
Stick chair project
Wood size (width and thickness) and alternative sizes
What you will need
The cutting list
Cutting, drilling, and aligning the pieces
Step 1. Cut and drill the pieces
Step 2. Align the seat pieces
Threading the wire
Step 3. Add the couplers
Step 4. Thread more wire
Step 5. Sit the back pieces on top of the seat pieces
More wire threading
Step 6. The last wire
Step 7. All the wire in
Step 8. Push the top in
Unfolding the chair
Step 9. The chair unfolding
Step 10. Squeeze the pieces in
Step 11. Snip the wire
Step 12. Fold and staple
Final touches and a bit of sanding
Step 13. Snip more wire
Step 14. A bit of sanding

Preface
History unknown. I first made a couple of these chairs some six or seven years ago
after obtaining a rough plan from a friend who used to make them in his spare time
– not only for around his own house but as gifts for his friends and relatives. He
got the plans by measuring off a chair that his father had made but has no idea
where his father got the original plans. Regardless, the design has been around for
some time.

The chair doesn’t appear to have a common name. I have heard it called by various
names including “stick” chair, “Kentucky” chair, “garden” chair, “folding” chair,
but to name a few. By my way of thinking, none of those names seem to be a perfect
fit for this chair. So I’m going to call this chair “the Kentucky Stick Chair”. One
thing’s for sure, the design isn’t confined to Kentucky. Maybe it originated there
– who knows? Some feedback might enlighten us as to its origin.
Anyway, let’s re-visit the project, dust off the old sketch plans and build
another.

To purchase this plan in downloadable PDF file in clean copy (free of ads).The
plans can be purchased online and immediately downloaded to your computer.

Kentucky Stick Chair
$5.00
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Introduction

This is a fun project.
In simply involves cutting all the pieces (sticks) to length, drilling holes
through all the pieces at the given points, and then threading wire through the
holes to tie all the pieces together.
Learn more
Voila. A comfortable chair that can easily be folded up and stored, or carried.
The chair is a low, laid back, comfortable bucket-type chair.Sit in it, and you
won’t want to get out.It is made out of a number of narrow pieces of wood (sticks)
that are interwoven and held together with wire thread through holes drilled in all
the individual pieces.
When finished, the chair can be easily folded up and stored, or carried.
The wire size mentioned above is the approximate size (for rounding off purposes)
of 6 gauge AWG (American Wire Gauge), which is the same as 8 gauge British SWG
(Standard Wire Gauge), also referred to as number 8 wire (NZ).
The cutting list
Note: If you cannot obtain the exact stock size as listed in the cutting list
below, refer to the paragraph ‘Wood size (width and thickness) and alternative
sizes’ on the previous page.
ITEM ID DESCRIPTION STOCK SIZE LENGTH HOW MANY PIECES
[a] seat 1½” x 1¼” (45mm x 33mm) 15″ (375mm) 6
[b] seat/back legs 1½” x 1¼” (45mm x 33mm) 35″ (875mm) 2
[c] back longer 1½” x 1¼” (45mm x 33mm) 31½” (787mm) 4
[d] back shorter 1½” x 1¼” (45mm x 33mm) 29¾” (745mm) 2
[e] back/front legs 1½” x 1¼” (45mm x 33mm) 42″ (1050mm) 2
[f] couplers 1½” x 1¼” (45mm x 33mm) 9⅛” (228mm) 9
Plan drawing – Where to drill the holes

Below is a drawing of all the pieces giving the dimensions for the hole positions.
Also are drawings showing the wire threading layout.
Refer to the cutting list on the previous page for the lengths of the individual
pieces.
Make all the holes ¼” (6mm) diameter and drill through the wider face of the wood.
In other words, the wood size is 1½” x 1¼” (45mm x 33mm), therefore drill through
the 1½” (45mm) wide face.
•

•

•

•
Cutting, drilling, and aligning the pieces
Step 1. Cut and drill the pieces

• Cut all the pieces according to the cutting list on the
previous page. There will be 25 pieces altogether and each piece will need to have
2 holes drilled through it.
• Make the holes ¼” (6mm) thick and ensure that they are all
in the center of the wider side of the wood.
• Position two holes along each piece as follows:
Pieces (a) and (b). Measure from one end 1½” (37mm) and 12″ (300mm).
Pieces (c), (d), and (e). Measure from one end 1½” (37mm) and 25″ (625mm).
•
• Align the holes in the couplers with the lower holes in the
seat pieces, and thread another length of wire through the holes.
Note: The wire is longer than need be at this stage. It can be cut to suit later
on.
Step 4. Thread more wire

• Lay the back pieces in a row, spaced apart a thickness of a
piece, in this order (e) (c) (d) (c) (c) (d) (c) (e) with the top holes in line.
•
• Thread wire through the top hole.
Note: The holes should be bigger than the wire to allow ease of threading. Refer to
Step 1.
Step 5. Sit the back pieces on top of the seat pieces

• Move the back pieces over the seat pieces.
• Sit each back piece (e), (c), (d), (c), (c), (d), (c), (e),
on top of each seat piece (a), (a), (b), (a), (a), (b), (a), (a), respectively.
For further visual reference see the ‘step 5 drawing’ at the bottom of the previous
page.
•
Step 7. All the wire in

And that’s all the wire in place.
Four lengths in all.
At this stage everything is fairly loose.
All the wire is longer than required and will be cut off in due course.
Coming along marvelously.
Step 8. Push the top in

• Give the top a bit of a squeeze in.
This is really the interesting part because you will now get to see how the chair
unfolds.
Simply grab the wire at each end of the chair top and lift the unit up so it’s
upright and on its legs.
Unfolding the chair
Step 9. The chair unfolding

• Simply grab the wire at each end of the chair top and lift
the unit up so it’s upright and on its legs.
• This is one of the most rewarding stages of the project –
seeing it fold into a chair.
Step 10. Squeeze the pieces in

• Squeeze the top of the back pieces together: i.e. just with
your hands, push the pieces together until they touch.
• The wire is longer than necessary at this stage and will
need trimming.
Step 11. Snip the wire

• When the top of chair is pushed together, cut the wire at
each side leaving a “2” (50mm) overhang.
• (Note alternative fastening option before Step 14 which
requires a shorter overhang.)
• This can be done with a tool such as a bolt cutter, a wire
cutter, heavy pliers, or a hacksaw
Step 12. Fold and staple

• Fold the wire over and fasten with two galvanized wire
staples, at each fold.

Final touches and a bit of sanding
Step 13. Snip more wire

• Ensure the sides (where the couplers are) and the seat ends
are all pushed together, and cut the rest of the wire leaving a 2″ (50mm) overhang
at every point.
• Then, with a hammer, bend the overhangs over against the
wood and fasten each bend with two galvanized staples.
Alternative fastening

If you prefer a more polished look (fastening-wise), another option is to make a
thread on the ends of the wire, and then secure each end with a washer and dome
nut.
This would mean leaving approximately a ⅜” (10mm) overhang on the wire at each
point rather than the 2″ (50mm) overhang and making a thread on the ends of the
wire.
A thread can be easily made with a tool called a ‘die’.
Step 14. A bit of sanding

Finally, a bit of sanding.
Get rid of all the sharp edges and that’s about it.


Les Kenny
Buildeazy.com started as a hobby for Les Kenny over eight years ago when he decided
he would share his successful DIY projects with the wider world, putting them up
online for anyone to access.
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9 Comments
• Reply

• JERRYAugust 23, 2019 at 9:32 pmWe built 3 Kentucky Stick
Chairs for our grandchildren (11, 9, 4), using your paid pattern. There are several
big Jake’s Chairs on our dock, so we wanted lower profile chairs that could be used
for dock-fishing, but otherwise would be inside for TV/games, etc.Safety Design
Change for Young ChildThe Stick Chairs were quick and easy to make but we did have
one design issue. Caroline is 4, and while tall and thin her legs do not touch the
floor when sitting in this chair. The seat/back right angles and couplers make the
Stick Chairs sturdy and comfortable, but they are VERY forward TIPPY when
enter/exiting the chair. An adult, or even our older grandchildren, automatically
compensate with no problem. We showed her how to enter/exit to the side which
worked fine until she forgot :(. Not only did the chair tip forward, it folded up
and the entire chair weight slammed into the back of her head. A few minutes of
tears and a popsicle brought back her smile, but we knew we had to have a safety
modification.We tried adding 9″ forward-facing feet to the inside of the two front
legs, but that was not enough to prevent tipping. Ultimately, we added 17.5″ legs
to the outside front seat string, cutting the top flush/angles with the outside
seat pieces. The front seat rod was tighten enough that the support legs follow
gravity down when unfolded, but are still loose enough to fold up. After many
enter/exit test, they have prevented tip-overs without further attachment. When she
gets older, the two legs can easily be removed.FinishingWe wanted bright, fun,
colors but stains tend to be more house/deck conservative. We found our solution
with Behr’s new water-based, tint-to-paint-colors stain. We loved Behr’s new
Seasons, Home Decorators Collection of bright, beach-resort colors. Home Depot
personnel had to custom match to the paint sample color due to the differences in
stain/paint base, but they were happy to do so for ANY of their paint colors (thank
you Margaret)! One 8-oz sample size was enough for two coats on a single chair. One
coat gave good coverage, but we want a more painted look that would wear like a
stain considering all the moving parts.Pattern LayoutAm also passing on our cutting
layout for using ONE 2x8x10 board, in case you think would be helpful (see the
cutting layout above). We will make others, so did not want to forget and have to
rethink it when we do more. Cutting smaller lengths first made ripping quick and
easy for those of us who hobby-build.We all LOVE our new chairs and thank you for
the pattern & instructions!Jerry Doty



•
• Reply

• DIONApril 8, 2021 at 3:41 pmI have grandkids and was
wondering if you created a new cut list, to avoid any injuries getting in and out
of the chair?
• Reply

• JAMESAugust 23, 2019 at 9:33 pmGreat project. Had a good
time making these chairs.James Piper

•

•
• Reply

• JULIANAugust 23, 2019 at 9:34 pmBuilt my first chair from
your plans. I think it came out pretty awesome. Thank youJulian Cofer


•
• Reply

• CESTARIAugust 23, 2019 at 9:37 pmThank you all for this
wonderful team that gave me my first lessons to build chair. God bless you.Cestari
Carlos – Brazil
Përmbajtja
Parathënie
Karrige me shkop Kentaki
Prezantimi
Materialet dhe lista e prerjes
Projekti i karriges me shkop
Madhësia e drurit (gjerësia dhe trashësia) dhe madhësitë alternative
Çfarë do t'ju duhet
Lista e prerjes
Prerja, shpimi dhe rreshtimi i pjesëve
Hapi 1. Pritini dhe shponi copat
Hapi 2. Rreshtoni pjesët e sediljes
Thyerja e telit
Hapi 3. Shtoni bashkuesit
Hapi 4. Fije më shumë tela
Hapi 5. Vendosni pjesët e pasme mbi pjesët e sediljes
Më shumë filetim teli
Hapi 6. Teli i fundit
Hapi 7. I gjithë teli brenda
Hapi 8. Shtyjeni pjesën e sipërme
Shpalosja e karriges
Hapi 9. Shpalosja e karriges
Hapi 10. Shtrydhni copat brenda
Hapi 11. Prisni telin
Hapi 12. Palosni dhe kapeni
Prekjet e fundit dhe pak lëmues
Hapi 13. Prisni më shumë tela
Hapi 14. Pak lëmues
Parathënie
Historia e panjohur. Bëra për herë të parë disa nga këto karrige rreth gjashtë
apo shtatë vjet më parë, pasi mora një plan të përafërt nga një mik i cili i bënte
ato në kohën e tij të lirë – jo vetëm për rreth shtëpisë së tij, por si dhuratë për
miqtë dhe të afërmit e tij. Ai i mori planet duke matur nga një karrige që kishte
bërë babai i tij, por nuk e ka idenë se ku i mori babai i tij planet origjinale.
Pavarësisht, dizajni ka qenë rreth e rrotull për disa kohë.
Karrigia nuk duket të ketë një emër të përbashkët. E kam dëgjuar të quhet me emra
të ndryshëm, duke përfshirë karrige "shkopi", karrige "Kentucky", karrige
"kopshti", karrige "e palosshme", por për të përmendur disa. Nga mënyra ime e të
menduarit, asnjë nga ata emra nuk duket të jetë i përshtatshëm për këtë karrige.
Kështu që unë do ta quaj këtë karrige "Karrika Stick Kentucky". Një gjë është e
sigurt, dizajni nuk kufizohet në Kentaki. Ndoshta ka origjinën atje - kush e di?
Disa komente mund të na ndriçojnë për origjinën e tij.
Gjithsesi, le të rivizitojmë projektin, të heqim pluhurin nga planet e vjetra të
skicimit dhe të ndërtojmë një tjetër.
Për të blerë këtë plan në skedarin PDF të shkarkueshëm në kopje të pastër (pa
reklama). Planet mund të blihen në internet dhe të shkarkohen menjëherë në
kompjuterin tuaj.
* Paguani online me kartë krediti, kartë debiti ose Paypal duke përdorur Secure
Server Paypal. Ju nuk keni nevojë për një llogari Paypal nëse paguani me kredi
ose…
SHTO NE SHORTE
Prezantimi
Voila. Një karrige e rehatshme që mund të paloset dhe të ruhet lehtësisht, ose të
bartet.
Karrigia është një karrige e ulët, e shtrirë, e rehatshme e tipit kovë. Uluni në
të dhe nuk do të dëshironi të dilni jashtë. Është bërë nga një numër copash të
ngushta druri (shkopinj) që ndërthuren dhe mbahen së bashku me fije teli përmes
vrimave të shpuara në të gjitha pjesët individuale.
Kur të përfundojë, karrigia mund të paloset lehtë dhe të ruhet, ose të bartet.
*
Prerja, shpimi dhe rreshtimi i pjesëve
Hapi 1. Pritini dhe shponi copat
* Vendosni pjesët e sediljes në një rresht, të ndarë nga njëra-tjetra rreth një
trashësi prej një cope, në këtë rend (a) (a) (b) (a) (a) (b) (a) (a) me vrimat e
rreshtuara .
* Kaloni një copë teli të galvanizuar prej çeliku të butë me trashësi afërsisht
5/32″ (4 mm) nëpër vrimat e sipërme. Shihni foton.
Shënim: Vrimat janë me diametër ¼” (6 mm). Kjo është rreth 3/32″ (2 mm) më shumë
se trashësia e telit. Është e nevojshme pak lojë për të fije të lehtë telin.
Rendi i montimit sipas vizatimeve.
Një udhëzim vizual që tregon procesin e montimit.
*
*
`
Thyerja e telit
Hapi 3. Shtoni bashkuesit
*
* Vendosni vrimat në çiftëzuesit me vrimat e poshtme në pjesët e sediljes dhe
kaloni një gjatësi teli përmes vrimave.
Shënim: Teli është më i gjatë se ç'duhet në këtë fazë. Mund të pritet që të
përshtatet më vonë.
* Vendosni pjesët e pasme në një rresht, të ndara nga njëra-tjetra një trashësi
prej një cope, në këtë rend (e) (c) (d) (c) (c) (d) (c) (e) me vrimat e sipërme në
vijë .
*
* Kaloni telin përmes vrimës së sipërme.
Shënim: Vrimat duhet të jenë më të mëdha se teli për të lejuar lehtësinë e
filetimit. Referojuni hapit 1.
Hapi 5. Vendosni pjesët e pasme mbi pjesët e sediljes
*
Hapi 7. I gjithë teli brenda
* Thjesht kapni telin në çdo skaj të majës së karriges dhe ngrini njësinë lart në
mënyrë që të jetë drejt dhe në këmbët e saj.
* Kjo është një nga fazat më shpërblyese të projektit – duke e parë të paloset në
një karrige.
Hapi 10. Shtrydhni copat brenda
* Sigurohuni që anët (ku janë bashkuesit) dhe skajet e sediljes të jenë të shtyra
së bashku dhe prisni pjesën tjetër të telit duke lënë një mbingarkesë 2″ (50 mm) në
çdo pikë.
* Më pas, me një çekiç, përkulni mbivendosjet mbi dru dhe fiksoni secilën kthesë
me dy kapëse të zinkuar.
Mbërthimi alternativ
Nëse preferoni një pamje më të lëmuar (në lidhje me fiksimin), një mundësi tjetër
është të bëni një fije në skajet e telit dhe më pas të siguroni çdo skaj me një
rondele dhe arrë kube.
Kjo do të nënkuptonte të lini afërsisht një mbingarkesë ⅜” (10 mm) në tel në çdo
pikë në vend të mbingarkesës 2″ (50 mm) dhe të krijoni një fije në skajet e telit.
Një fije mund të bëhet lehtësisht me një mjet të quajtur "die".
Hapi 14. Pak lëmues
Les Kenny
Buildeazy.com filloi si një hobi për Les Kenny më shumë se tetë vjet më parë, kur
ai vendosi se do të ndante projektet e tij të suksesshme DIY me botën e gjerë, duke
i vendosur ato në internet për këdo që t'i qasej.
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