NOTRE DAME OF JOLO COLLEGE

HEALTH SCIENCES DEPARTMENT

PHARMACY PROGRAM
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WEEK 1
COSMETIC PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
(LECTURE)
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HANDOUT 1
I. OVERVIEW OF COSMETIC SCIENCE

Learning Objectives
At the end of the activity the students should be able to:
1. Define important terms in cosmetic
science.
2. Describe the GMP requirements for
cosmetics.
3. Identify the requirements for
cosmetic notification.

What is Cosmetic science?

Cosmetic science is the area of study focused on the development of products designed to
improve the look and feel of skin, hair, nails and other surfaces of the body. The subject of
cosmetic science actually overlaps with a number of sciences including Chemistry, Physics and
Biology but also includes softer topics like Marketing and Market Research.

Raw materials
The raw materials that are used in most cosmetics around the world are listed in the International
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary. The latest edition of the INCI Dictionary has over
22,000 entries so it takes some time to learn about everything you could include in your cosmetic
formulas. In reality, those thousands of options can all be simplified and described on three types of
cosmetic ingredients. These include functional, aesthetic and claims.

Functional ingredients

 Are the ones that provide the benefit of cosmetics. They include cleansers (surfactants),
conditioning agents, colorants, fragrances, reactive ingredients, film formers, and drug actives.
Every cosmetic you’ve ever used or made has at least one functional ingredient.

Aesthetic ingredients
  Are those that help make delivery of the functional ingredients more acceptable. These are
ingredients like solvents, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, plasticizers, fillers,
appearance modifiers, anti-oxidants, anti-irritants, and delivery systems.

Claims ingredients (sometimes called fairy dust)

 Are ingredients added to a formula at a low level for the primary purpose of getting to put the
ingredient name on the label. This includes ingredients like natural extracts, vitamins, proteins,
biotechnology, and fanciful made-up ingredient names.

Cosmetics are applied daily on a part or all parts of the human body, require special knowledge and
care for designing formulations. Ingredients of cosmetics should be combined so as to achieve the aimed
efficacies and effects and be appropriate for the purpose, body part on which the product is to be applied,
and method of use.
All cosmetic products need to be temperature resistant and stable over a long period of time. Use of
preservatives, pH regulators, chelating agents, and antioxidants should be carefully investigated.
 Stability must also be checked for changes in color, smell, and viscosity.
 Antiseptic effects must last long and secondary pollution after opening the pack also needs to be
prevented.
Classification and Categories of Cosmetics

According to the regulations on the manufacturing and sales of cosmetics in Japan, cosmetics are
classified into the following categories:

1. Hair care products which are hair liquids, hair tonics, scalp-care products, hair dyes, shampoos,
and hair conditioners.
2. Skincare products which are toilet water, beauty essences, creams, lotions, suntan lotions,
sunscreens, cleansers such as shaving lotions (facial), shaving lotions (body), facial
conditioners, facial packs Cosmetic oils, body conditioners, and massage lotions.
3. Makeup products which are foundations, bases, facial powders, lipsticks, eye makeup products,
rouges.
4. Body makeup products such as perfumes, colognes.
5. Others Bath preparations, nail cosmetics, body powders

Parts of the Body

Cosmetics are applied on the skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, teeth, and eyelashes including the oral
cavity and around the eyes.
Cosmetics developments in new fields require thorough understanding and investigation of the body
part on which the cosmetics is to be applied, the materials used and formulations.

Efficacies and Effects

The Pharmaceutical Affairs Law

 Prescribes the range of cosmetics efficacy (Pharmaceutical and Medical Safety Director
Notification No. 1339, December 28, 2000).
 No other efficacy or effect can be advertised for cosmetics.
  Cosmetics must not “cure” or “be effective against” symptoms and must be mild.
 Efficacy expressions permitted to cosmetics include “keeps something,” “prevents something,”
“gives something,” and “repairs something.”

Purpose of Use
 To “cleanse,” “beautify,” “change the appearance,” and “protect” the bodies and “make them
attractive.”
 It should be noted that the purposes of use may differ from the efficacy expressions under the
Pharmaceutical Affairs Law.

Range of cosmetics efficacy

 Cleans the scalp and hair  Softens the skin
 Prevents odor of the scalp and hair by  Firms up the skin
giving fragrance  Gives luster to the skin
 Keeps the scalp and hair healthy  Smoothens the skin
 Makes the hair springy  Facilitates shaving
 Moisturizes the scalp and hair  Cares the skin after shaving
 Keeps the scalp and hair moist  Prevents prickly heat (by applying
 Makes the hair soft and smooth powder)
 Makes the hair easy-to-comb  Prevents suntan
 Keeps the hair glossy  Prevents blotches and freckles by
 Makes the hair glossy sunburn
 Removes dandruff and itchiness  Give fragrance
 Suppresses dandruff and itchiness  Protect nails
 Supplements and keeps moisture and  Keep nails healthy
oil in the hair  Moisturize nails
 Prevents trichorrhexis and split ends of  Prevents dry lips
hair  Keeps the lips healthy
 Helps arrange hair and keeps the hair  Protect the lips, prevent the lips from
style drying.
 Prevents static charge of the hair  Prevents chapped lips by keeping the
 Cleanses the skin (by removing the lips moist
impurities)  Smoothens the lips
 Prevents acne and prickly heat (by  Prevents dental caries (toothpastes used
cleansing the skin) (cleanser) for brushing the teeth)
 Prepares the skin  Whitens the teeth (toothpastes used for
 Smoothens the skin brushing the teeth)
 Keeps the skin healthy  Removes dental plaque (toothpastes
 Prevents dry skin used for brushing the teeth)
 Contracts the pores of the skin  Cleans the oral cavity (toothpastes)
 Moisturizes the skin  Prevent mouth odor
 Supplements and keeps moisture and  Removes tobacco stains from teeth
oil in the hair (Toothpastes used for brushing the
 Keeps the skin flexible Protects the teeth)
skin  Prevents tartar from accumulating on
 Prevents the skin from drying teeth
 (toothpastes used for brushing the teeth)
 Obscures wrinkles caused by drying of
the skin
Method of Use
 Cosmetics are applied on a part or all parts of the body and are either left on, wiped off, or rinsed
off.
 Most cosmetics are either rinsed off (rinse-off cosmetics) or left on (leave-on cosmetics); and the
difference determines the safety level required to the products and the ingredients used.
 It should also be noted that there are restrictions on components and the concentrations depending
on the part of the body on which the cosmetics is to be applied.

Properties and Product Forms

 The properties and forms of cosmetics
 are decided based on the body part on which the product is to be used and whether is it
to be rinsed off, wiped off, or left on, and so that users feel easy to use.
 Marketing aspects
 Such as containers and proposed lifestyles, may also be reflected in the properties and
product forms. Main product forms include liquids, viscous liquids, milky lotions,
creams, gels, waxes, solids, powders, and aerosols.

Constituents of Cosmetics
 Constituents of cosmetics include
 Water, oils, silicones, surfactants, polymers, polyhydric alcohols, saccharides, organic
solvents, acid and alkali salts, inorganic and organic powders, pigment colors, amino
acids, proteins, plant extracts, vitamins, ultraviolet absorbers, chelating agents,
preservatives, antioxidants, oxidizing and reducing agents, and aromatic essential oils.
 It is convenient to classify the constituents into those that give the product form, stabilize the
product, have efficacy and effects, and act on the senses of users.
 Ingredients of cosmetics are combined so as to achieve the aimed efficacies and effects and be
appropriate for the purpose, body part on which the product is to be applied, and method of use.

Ingredients for Giving the Product Form

 The constituents that give a product its form are:
 Water, oils, surfactants, silicone, polyhydric alcohols, polymers, and powders.

Ingredients for giving product forms

Principal Materials Principal objective of use
Oils
Hydrocarbons, waxes, esters, vegetable oils and Oily ingredient, emulsifying aid
fats, higher alcohols, fatty acids

Surfactants
Anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, Detergent, foaming agent, emulsifier, solubilizer,
 cationic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants penetrating agent, softening agent, antistatic
additives, antimicrobial agent
Silicones Slip agent, antifoaming, texture improvement
Polyhydric alcohols Moisturizing agent, stabilizer, solvent,
solubilizing aid
Polymers Thickener, setting agent, emulsion stabilizer,
texture improvement
Inorganic powders Powder, covering, colouring

Ingredients for Stabilizing the Products

 Cosmetics contain ingredients for stabilizing the product and preventing deterioration
 They are essential because cosmetics are used over a long period of time after opening
the packet and have risks of degeneration and deterioration. Because cosmetics are
applied on delicate parts of the body, such as the skin, they are required to be highly
stable. The stabilizers are classified into antimicrobial agents, pH control chemicals,
antioxidants, and chelating agents.

Ingredients for Giving Efficacies, Effects, and Concepts

 Cosmetics are not allowed to be advertised for efficacy or effect, but ingredients that give efficacy
and effects can be added. Such ingredients are also essential for presenting the concepts and
purposes of the product.
 Care should be taken that expressions are strictly within the permitted “Range of cosmetics
efficacy.” Each cosmetics manufacturer uses original combinations of ingredients that give
efficacy, effects, and concepts.
 Manufacturers also use original components and advertise the use to attract users.

 The ingredients can be broadly classified into :

 plant extracts and herbal medicine components
 microbial-derived ingredients
 Proteins and amino acids, ceramides, and vitamins.

Ingredients Acting on the Senses of Users

 Most cosmetics contain coloring and scenting agents to act on the senses of users.

Coloring agents
 Are used in hair dyes and also to give colors to cosmetics products.

Categories of Cosmetics and Product Forms

 The ingredients of cosmetics are combined so as to give the aimed product form, which depend
on the category of cosmetics (shampoos, conditioners, creams, facial toner, body shampoo,
lipsticks, foundations, etc.), and to match the purpose of the product. The ingredients used are
exemplified below separately for toilet soaps, cleansers, shampoos, rinse-off hair conditioners,
leave-on hair care products, creams, oily cosmetics that do not contain water, and facial toner.

Toilet Soaps and Cleansers

 Toilet soaps and cleansers are for removing filth from the skin.
  There are toilet soaps, which are solid, and body shampoos and facial cleansers, which are either
cream or liquid.

Fatty acid salts

 Are the most widely used component. Some products contain anionic or amphoteric
surfactants as the cleansing component, in most cases together with fatty acid salts.

Glycols
 such as glycerin
 Are used as moisturizer.

 Higher alcohols and nonionic surfactants are combined to make the product creamy.

Polymers

 Are used to increase viscosity.

Shampoos
 Shampoos are for cleansing the scalp and hair.

Anionic surfactants
 Are used as the major cleansing agent, and amphoteric surfactants are also combined as
the second cleansing agent.

Nonionic surfactants
 Such as alkanol amides stabilize foams and increase viscosity.

Cationic polymers
 Increase viscosity and improve the feel of use.

 These four main constituents determine the product form and the feel of use. Silicones are also
widely used to improve the touch

Conditioners
 Conditioners are applied after shampooing hair and are also called “hair treatment,” “hair
pack,” and “hair rinse” depending on the contents of proteins, amino acids, and other
effective components for repairing hair damage.
 The main purpose of conditioners is to improve the touch of hair and repair damage.
 Cationic surfactant of quaternary ammonium salt is always added to emulsify the product
and improve the touch.
 Higher alcohols and all kinds and natural oils and fats can also be added to make the
product creamy and improve the feel of use.
 Silicone is indispensable for giving a smooth touch to the hair.

Creams
 Creams are for caring the skin of the face, hands, and other parts of the body. Product
forms may be creams, milky lotions and gels.
 The purposes are diverse and include:
 repairing the skin from damage
 moisturizing the skin
 whitening the skin and blotches
 Protecting the skin from ultraviolet rays.

 The oily components, which give the efficacy and determine the feel of use, may be
carbohydrates, esters, and higher alcohols.
 Nonionic surfactant and fatty acids are mainly used to emulsify the oily components.
 Polymers are added to stabilize the product form.
 Polyhydric alcohols are for moisturizing, and alkalis are combined to neutralize fatty acids

Leave-on Hair Care Products

 There are hair care products of diverse purposes, such as for caring hair, improving the texture
and styling. Product forms are also diverse and range from liquids to solids. There are hair mists,
hair creams, waxes, styling agents, and hair oils. Constituents vary depending on purpose and
product form and can be all kinds of surfactants, oil, polymer, and glycol.

Hair mists
 Mainly consist of cationic surfactants and glycols.
Hair creams
 Contain oils, silicone, fatty acids (as emulsifier), and either anionic or cationic surfactants.
Hair mists and creams
 Also contain nonionic surfactants for emulsification. Hair waxes contain wax, micro crystalline
waxes, fatty acids, nonionic surfactants, and glycols. Polymers are added to achieve hair setting
and styling performances. Hair styling agents are gels or liquids that contain polymers. Hair oils
are either silicones plus a small amount of plant oils or plant oils plus hydrocarbons.

Cosmetics Mainly Consisting of Oil

 Cosmetic products that mainly consist of oils include cleansing oils, self-emulsifying bath oils,
body massage oils, hair oils, lipsticks, and solid lip rouges. Main constituents are oils of any kind
and nonionic surfactants. The water content is very small if there is any. Formulation design
involves combining oils that differ in polarity and melting points and adding nonionic surfactant
HLB.

Facial Toner
 Facial toner is designed by combining moisturizing agents so as to moisturize, soften, smoothen,
firm up and give luster to the skin. It may also contain vitamin C derivatives for whitening, and
fermentation extracts are included in some quasi-drug products for ant aging and wrinkle
prevention. Many products also contain ceramides, vitamins, sterols, vegetable extracts, and other
efficacious components. Basic constituents are water, glycerin, and moisturizing agents, such as
1,3butyl glycol, hydrolyzed collagen, amino acids, PCA-Na, and saccharides. Product forms may
be transparent liquid, transparent and viscous liquid, and milky lotion.

Points to Note for Using Ingredients in Cosmetics

 The Japanese Standards for Cosmetics (enacted in April 2001) prescribes the prohibited
ingredients for cosmetics (Appendix 1) and limitations on inclusion of ingredients (Appendix 2),
preservatives (Appendix 3), and UV absorbers (Appendix 4) to ensure the quality and safety of
cosmetics.
  For each ingredient, there is a limitation on the amount that can be included depending on the
body part the product is to be used and the method of use (to be rinsed off or left on). There are
also restrictions on materials of biological origin.
 The former Japanese Standards for Cosmetic Ingredients should also be referred to because there
were ingredients whose inclusion was restricted due to safety problem.
 All cosmetic products need to be temperature resistant and stable over a long period of time. Use
of preservatives, pH regulators, chelating agents, and antioxidants needs to be investigated.
Stability must be checked for changes in color, smell, and viscosity. Antiseptic effects must last
long, and secondary pollution after opening the pack also needs to be prevented. Other points to
note on the ingredients of cosmetics are summarized in Table 1.10.

 Points to note about cosmetic ingredients

 Don’t irritate or toxic to the skin
 Don’t disturb the physiological functions of the skin
 Stable and do not undergo changes in color and smell
 Don’t separate, do not coagulate, do not precipitate, and do not undergo changes in property
 Don’t undergo big changes in viscosity by passage of time or temperature changes
 Suppress the development of bacteria and secondary pollution

Future of cosmetic science

There are a number of technologies that promise to have an impact on the future of cosmetic science and
formulation development. This includes
• 3D printing cosmetics which may have some application in the color cosmetic area.
• Epigenetics – a field which activates DNA sequences based on environmental conditions
• Microbial cleansing – using good microbes to clean skin surface
• Sustainable sources – raw materials derived from renewable resources like plants
The topic of cosmetic science covers a wide range of subjects which can take a lifetime to learn it all. It is
an interesting area of study.