Marks & Spencer P6

METHOD OF TEST

DURABILITY WASH FOR PLEAT RETENTION

PURPOSE To assess the durability to washing of pleated garments

and components.

APPARATUS 1. Hoovermatic twin tub washing machine (see Note 1),

Durawash or Dynawash (see Equipment Index Ref.
13A).
2. Tumble dryer (see test method PG). (See Equipment
Index Ref. 13Y and 24S) (or a domestic tumble dryer
which meets the same specification).
3. Marks and Spencer standard makeweights (see
Equipment Index Ref. 11C, 13AB, 22A, 24U).
4. Balance/scales capable of weighing up to 2kg in 25g
graduations with a pan capable of holding a 2kg load.
5. Chemical balance accurate to at least ± 0.01g.

TEST SPECIMEN Garments should be tested complete. If garments are not

available test a sample of pleated fabric 700mm deep and
450mm wide.
When testing fabric, sew the specimen along one edge to
maintain pleat distribution, the‘free’edge to be left unsewn.
Original fabric or garment, pleated under identical
conditions, should be available for comparison.

DETERGENT 30g of a heavy duty low lather detergent containing optical

brightening agent suitable for automatic machines.

TEMPERATURE Temperature must relate to the HLCC Care Label i.e.

Garments or components with a :-
50°C or 60°C Care Label – wash at 60°C
40°C Care Label – wash at 50°C.

WASH LOAD 1kg.

Test specimen should be weighed and the load made up to
1kg by the addition of the standard makeweights.
All garments must be washed face side outwards and with
all fastenings undone, unless the care label gives a contrary
instruction.

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PROCEDURE Fill the machine with water to the full mark (approximately
40 litres).
Place the makeweights in the machine and heat to the
required temperature. Add 30g of washing powder. Run
the machine for one minute to dissolve the washing
powder. Add the test specimen(s) and run the machine for
5 minutes.
The rinsing procedure should be as indicated on the
HLCC Care
Label either:
(i) Hand Wash: Rinse by hand in hand hot water.
DO NOT SPIN

(ii) Machine Wash: Rinse the specimen(s) and

makeweights separately, twice in the
spinner using cold water (do not run
water into the spinner while
spinning).

DRYING The drying procedure should be as indicated on the

HLCC Care Label either:-
(i) s Do not tumble dry
Hang to dry, smoothing the pleats gently into place
by hand.
Garments should be dried on a suitable hanger
ensuring that the pleats are not distorted.
Fabric specimens should be pinned to a bar by their
sewn end.
(ii) l Tumble Dry
The entire load should be tumbled until dry, on the
HOT setting as follows:-
Synthetics (Nylon, Polyester, - 45 min. min.
Acetate)
Wool & Wool blends - 70 min. min.
Cellulosics (including Viscose) - 90 min. and
Cellulosic blends
In the case of fabrics comprised of blends of fibres,
the tumble drying time relates to the predominant
fibre or generic type.

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The times, which include a 10 minute cool down

period, are necessary to completely dry the 1kg load.
If the load is not dry after the minimum period,
continue until dry.

NB: The garment/specimens must be removed

promptly from the tumble dryer, to prevent
creasing or distortion.
Garments should be hung on a suitable hanger,
ensuring that the pleats are not distorted.
Fabric specimens should be pinned to a bar by their
sewn end.

ASSESSMENT Compare the washed sample with the original noting any
loss of sharpness and/or opening of the pleats. Report
findings as follows:-

5. No )
4. Negligible )
3. Slight ) Loss of sharpness and/or opening of
2. Fairly Distinct ) pleats
1. Distinct )

If P134A Crease Replicas are available, these may be used

to aid grading.

NOTES 1. Details of modification to the timing mechanism are

available from your Marks & Spencer accreditor.

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