Marks & Spencer P5

METHOD OF TEST

DURABILITY WASH FOR GARMENTS AND

COMPONENTS

PURPOSE To assess the durability to washing of garments and

components, except for knitwear, pleated garments and
waddings (for pleated garments refer to Method of Test P6
“Durability Wash for Pleat Retention”. For waddings refer
to Method of Test P7“Durability of Waddings and Quilted
Waddings to Washing”).

APPARATUS 1. Hoovermatic Twin Tub washing machine (see Note 1),

Durawash or Dynawash. (see Equipment Index Ref:
13A), with separate spin-dryer (see Note 2).

2. Tumble dryer (see PG)(see Equipment Index Ref. 13Y

and 24S) or domestic tumble dryer which meets
same specifications.

3. Marks and Spencer standard makeweights (see

Equipment Index Ref. 11C, 13AB, 22A, and 24U).

4. Non-rusting mesh drying trays.

5. Balance/scales which are capable of weighing up to

2kg in 25g graduations with a pan capable of holding
a 2kg load.

6. Chemical balance accurate to at least ± 0.01g.

TEST SPECIMEN Whole or part garments.

IMPORTANT: COMPONENTS AND ACCESSORIES

(e.g. motifs, trims, zips, buttons, studs, etc.) MUST BE
ATTACHED TO THE PROPOSED FABRIC IN THE
MANNER TO BE USED FOR PRODUCTION.

In certain instances, when components are being tested by

the component supplier (e.g. buttons, zips etc), they may
be attached to a Marks and Spencer polyester makeweight
(e.g. two buttons on both sides of the makeweight, one zip
attached diagonally across the makeweight).

P5 P1 of 4 AUGUST 2008
P5 Marks & Spencer

Garment specimens and zip specimens should be examined,

prior to washing, paying particular attention to those points
itemised under‘Examination and Reporting of Results’.
For other components and accessories - refer to the
appropriate Performance Standards for details.
It is recommended that a second garment is retained
for comparison after wash.

METHOD Fill the machine with water to the full mark

Wash Liquor (approximately 40 litres). Add 30g of a heavy duty low
lather powder detergent suitable for automatic machines.
For metal buttons - use 150g Persil for Twin Tubs.
Temperature Temperature used must relate to the HLCC care label, i.e.
Garments and components with a:-
50˚C label Wash at 60˚ ± 2˚C
40˚C label Wash at 50˚ ± 2˚C
Wash Load 1kg.
Test specimen should be weighed and the wash load made
up to 1kg by the addition of the makeweights.
All garments must be washed face side outwards and with
all fastenings undone, unless the care label gives a contrary
instruction.
Procedure Place any required makeweights in the machine and heat
to the appropriate temperature. Add appropriate detergent
(see Wash Liquor). Run the machine for one minute to
dissolve the washing powder. Add the test specimen(s)
and run the machine for 15 minutes. Remove the test
specimens and makeweights. Examine coated accessories
such as pearl buttons, enamelled zip pullers etc.
Immediately after washing, prior to rinsing, i.e. while the
coating is still soft.
Rinse the specimen(s) and makeweights separately, twice
in the spinner using cold water (do not run water into the
spinner while spinning). See note 2.
Drying Methods All specimens with fused components, including
fused motifs, must be tumble dried, (including
garments that would be labelled as ‘Do Not Tumble
Dry’).
Other garments should also be tumble dried unless the
care label gives a contrary instruction.
Tumble dry the whole 1kg load. The tumble dryer should
be operated at the hot setting. The specimen should be
tumbled for 90 minutes if it contains fused components or
motifs. Otherwise, tumble until dry.

AUGUST 2008 P5 P2 of 4
 Marks & Spencer P5

EXAMINATION The effect of washing should be assessed by comparison

AND REPORTING with the examination made prior to washing.
RESULTS

Garments

Report the wash temperature and the method of drying

used. Comment on the following and, where appropriate,
indicate the position on the specimen.

1. Differential Shrinkage which may have occurred

between fabric components, e.g. dropped or tight
linings, seam pucker, distortion of components.

2. Seam Breakdown including inadequate seams,

partial or non-inclusion, faulty thread or stitching,
fabric slippage, fraying from seam turnings, stitching
damage, run back.

3. Fused Components which may have delaminated or

otherwise changed in appearance, differential
shrinkage/bubbling.
Quantify this as:-

No )
Negligible ) Delamination or otherwise
Slight ) changed in appearance
Fairly Distinct ) shrinkage/bubbling
Complete )

4. Change in handle or appearance where significant.

Assess the following points in the Light Cabinet,

using D65. Artificial Daylight, or UV where indicated.

5. Effect on accessories such as buttons, zips, care

labels etc. (For Care Labels, grade loss of print as
No, Negligible, Slight, Distinct or Complete).

6. Pick up of Optical Brightening Agent which may

occur on certain substrates as a result of the optical
brightener present in the detergent. Check under UV
Light.

7. Colour Fastness Some degree of shade change,

cross-staining between components or staining of
wash liquor may occur. This does not necessarily
indicate a colour fastness problem but if in doubt the
appropriate Marks and Spencer colour fastness tests
should be carried out.

P5 P3 of 4 AUGUST 2008
P5 Marks & Spencer

Zips

Assess the zips numerically as below:-

5. No Change in Appearance

4. Negligible Change in Appearance

very slight chipping/abrasion on prominent edges.

3. Slight Change in Appearance

marked chipping/abrasion on puller, slider or puller
attachment and/or very slight loss of lustre/sheen
/finish

2. Fairly Distinct Change in Appearance

significant chipping/abrasion on puller, slider or
puller attachment and/or moderate loss of
lustre/sheen/finish.

1. Distinct Change in Appearance

excessive chipping/abrasion on puller, slider or puller
attachment and/or distinct loss of lustre/sheen/finish.

Buttons

Report the type and quantity of powder used.

For components and accessories, refer to the

appropriate Performance Standards for details of
assessment points.

IRONING OR Motifs must not be ironed

PRESSING In other cases, after examination and reporting it may be
necessary to iron and press the test specimen for further
evaluation. Such ironed or pressed specimens must be
clearly identified as such in order not to subsequently
mislead.

NOTES 1. Details of modification to the timing mechanism are

available from your Marks and Spencer accreditor.

2. When using the Durawash, a separate spin-dryer is

required. The spin-dryer specification must indicate
that water can be poured into the spin-dryer.
Alternatively, use the rinse cycles on the Wascator
MSB wash programme. In this case the specimens
and make weights can be rinsed together.

AUGUST 2008 P5 P4 of 4