In Singapore, Strolling Geylang Road for Food and Flavor - The New York Times

11/6/23, 7:02 PM In Singapore, Strolling Geylang Road For Food and Flavor - The New York Times
https://www.nytimes.com/2023/06/19/travel/singapore-geylang-food-tour.html
A Savory Stroll Under the Neon Lights of Singapore

Mud crabs, skewers, frog porridge and more: Expect an overload for your taste buds along Geylang Road, in the city-state’s red light
district.
By Christine Chung
Published June 19, 2023 Updated Sept. 20, 2023
Sign up for the Travel Dispatch newsletter. Essential news on the

changing travel landscape, expert tips and inspiration for your future
trips. Get it sent to your inbox.
Geylang Road in central Singapore is synonymous with the night, when a dizzying number of neon street signs power on and large groups
crowd tables that spill out onto the sidewalk. It’s a tasty spot for a nocturnal stroll, to discover vespertine feasts of local specialties, like
crab doused in a bracing white-pepper sauce or steamy porridge showcasing marinated frog legs.
“In Singapore, eating is a national past time,” said Dr. Lily Kong, a professor of social sciences at Singapore Management University. “It
provides a sense of pride; it is a locus of community.” Hawker centers, or food halls filled with dozens of stalls that peddle affordable and
quickly prepared eats, were recognized by UNESCO in 2020 as part of the city-state’s intangible cultural heritage. The cuisine is informed
by the country’s dominant ethnic groups — Chinese, Malay, Indian — and many of its famous dishes, such as Hainanese chicken rice,
flaunt a blend of multicultural flavors and are claimed as distinctly Singaporean.
https://www.nytimes.com/2023/06/19/travel/singapore-geylang-food-tour.html?mc=aud_dev 1/27
Geylang Road is in Singapore’s red light district. But steps away from legal brothels, families and tourists meander along the main road to dine on durian, dim sum or satay
ordered by the dozen. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
The gritty Geylang neighborhood doesn’t have the gleaming skyscrapers or carefully manicured streets that characterize much of
Singapore; it is where the pursuits of sex and food coexist. The road’s even-numbered side streets have legal brothels regulated by the
government, while steps away families and tourists meander along the main road to dine on durian, dim sum, kaya toast and achingly
sweet coffee, or satay ordered by the dozen.
The food here features Chinese, Indonesian or Peranakan flavors, representative of the immigrant communities clustered in Geylang, said
Cai Yinzhou, a 32-year-old Geylang resident who gives tours of the neighborhood.
“We have pulled from all different parts of the world because we have the diversity of the people who are present here,” said Mr. Cai of the
origins of the local cuisine.
Eating well is essentially an Olympic sport in Singapore, where food is akin to national identity. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
A speciality at J.B. Ah Meng is crab cooked with ginger, scallion, an astonishing amount of white pepper and finished with heaps of cilantro. Rebecca Toh for The New York
Times
Sample the bounty of flavors yourself on a 1.6-mile stretch of Geylang Road, on an eating-and-walking tour that hits some of the most
appetizing establishments. You’ll want to start in the early evening, when most stalls at hawker centers are still bustling. Then see where
your whims and appetite take you. Your journey can last an hour or six, as skewers and sweets and everything in between will equally
entice. Expect only a nominal effect on your wallet (though choice crab dishes will cost a bit more) and make sure to bring Singapore
dollars. Finally, as in any major city, keep your wits about you and go with a companion or three if possible.
To start: Nasi padang
Geylang Serai Market and Food Center is known for its nasi padang, a rice dish served with various side dishes of vegetables and proteins. Rebecca Toh for The New York
Times
Take the metro to the Paya Lebar stop, which deposits you at the Playa Lebar Quarter or PLQ mall, a sprawling complex with a crowded
food court on the top floor. East of the mall is technically Geylang Serai, an enclave named after the lemongrass (serai) once cultivated in
the area.
Walk to Geylang Serai Market and Food Center, where you’ll want nasi padang, a rice dish of Indonesia served with various side dishes of
vegetables and proteins, said K.F. Seetoh, a Singaporean food journalist, entrepreneur and champion for local hawker food. Beef rendang,
or braised meat cooked in coconut milk and aromatics, is another Indonesian standout here, Mr. Seetoh said.
At Haig Road Putu Piring, the rice cakes for putu piring are upended out of conical molds and stacked four to a serving. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
The dish, which has been honed here for more than three decades, also spotlights gula melaka, or palm sugar, and generous flurries of grated coconut. Rebecca Toh for The
New York Times
Then, for something sweet, cross the street to the Haig Road Market for putu piring, which are steamed rice cakes studded with gula
melaka, or palm sugar, and generous flurries of grated coconut. At Haig Road Putu Piring, the recipe has been honed for more than three
decades, with rice cakes upended out of conical molds and stacked four to a serving, each layer separated by a sheaf of fragrant pandan.
Walk west for durians and crabs
Singaporeans seem to have an opinion on which type of durian — described by enthusiasts to taste of custard and caramel — reigns supreme. Rebecca Toh for The New York
Times
Stroll west of the mall to the establishments that stay open to serve dinner or supper, Singapore’s fourth and most nocturnal meal of the
day, the one that usually closes a late night out. Along your way, peruse the ornate second floors of the narrow shophouses, which feature
colorful shuttered windows and borders of decorative tiles.
The open-air stall Durian 36 sells a wide selection of the notoriously putrid fruit. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
At J.B. Ah Meng, crab is cooked with ginger, scallion, an astonishing amount of white pepper and finished with heaps of cilantro. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
After about 10 minutes, you’ll encounter the open-air stall, Durian 36, which sells a wide selection of the notoriously putrid fruit. Prices
vary based on flavor and quality and you’ll soon find that all Singaporeans seem to have an opinion on which durian — described by
enthusiasts to taste of custard and caramel — reigns supreme. Though this store is open 24 hours a day, durian availability depends on the
season, generally June through September. You can also reserve one in advance by messaging the business on WhatsApp. If they’re sold
out, try another tropical fruit like a custard apple.
Inside J.B. Ah Meng, the soundtrack is a constant din of conversation from large dinner parties and the sounds of cracking crab legs. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
Next, head to J.B. Ah Meng a few blocks away, for crab cooked with ginger, scallion, an astonishing amount of white pepper and finished
with heaps of cilantro. The crab flesh is succulent and juicy, and the sauce is deeply flavorful. The soundtrack here is of a constant din of
conversation from large dinner parties and the sounds of cracking crab legs. (Plastic gloves are available upon request.)
Another popular dish is the fried bee hoon, a crispy pancake of rice vermicelli noodles cooked in a soy sauce with dried shrimp and squid.
Still hungry? Stroll farther for skewers
At Kwong Satay, piping hot and juicy skewers — chicken, pork belly, mutton and pork — are sold in quantities of five. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
Just a few minutes away, on Lorong 27A (lorong is the local word for alley or side street), is Kwong Satay, a no-frills stall in a compact
open-air food court with eight other vendors. Piping hot and juicy skewers — chicken, pork belly, mutton and pork — are sold in quantities
of five, with a minimum order of 10 sticks. They are accompanied by slices of red onion, raw cucumber and a dipping sauce of peanut and
lemongrass that can be augmented with pineapple purée, an off-menu add-on.
There’s also a trendy spot for Japanese yakitori two lorongs away that has ceiling fans, a welcome reprieve from Singapore’s stifling heat
and humidity. At the Skewer Bar, the crowd leans younger and food requests are submitted via tablets. You can order everything from
sweet corn to smelt on a stick. There is a wide selection of beers and spirits.
In years past, No Signboard Seafood gained popularity from its white-pepper crab dish. But on a recent evening, most diners were eating chili crab, a dish of mud crabs
smothered in a sweet and spicy chili and tomato sauce laced with beaten egg. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
Across the street, it would be impossible to miss No Signboard Seafood, a misnomer for a restaurant with neon signs screaming its name.
Nearly every inch of its interior and exterior surfaces are draped with festive string lights and the restaurant contains a tiny museum
devoted to its history. Founded about three decades ago, the business has expanded to multiple locations in Singapore. Its popularity was
built upon its white-pepper crab dish, but on a recent evening, most diners were eating chili crab, a dish of mud crabs smothered in a sweet
and spicy chili and tomato sauce, laced with beaten egg.
On a recent Friday evening, one of the most sought-after supper spots in Geylang was Geylang Lor 9 Fresh Frog Porridge. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
A bowl of steamy porridge showcasing marinated frog legs. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
Walk west, where you’ll notice that the last couple of lorongs veer slightly seamier, but some of the most sought-after supper spots in
Geylang are concentrated here. Among those completely packed with young revelers late on a recent Friday evening were at least three
frog porridge spots, including Geylang Lor 9 Fresh Frog Porridge.
Dim sum for your final meal
At Mongkok Dim Sum, diners place orders by writing down numbered dishes on a checklist. The food comes out hot and fast. Rebecca Toh for The New York Times
Farther down, by the Kallang–Paya Lebar Expressway, sits the final destination of this eating and walking tour, Mongkok Dim Sum.
Open 24 hours, this restaurant has a menu offering dozens of reliably tasty items, ranging from sweet to savory, that only cost a few dollars
each. There are steamed buns filled with spicy chili crab, crispy prawn-paste chicken wings and fluffy custard buns, all which you can
wash down with icy-cold sugar cane juice. Place an order by writing down numbered dishes on a paper checklist and expect them to come
out hot and fast. The quality of the food and speed of the service at Mongkok Dim Sum makes it an ideal spot to observe supper, because no
matter how full you are, there’s always room for an extra meal in Singapore.
Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to get expert tips on traveling smarter
and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2023.
Christine Chung is a travel reporter for The Times. She previously covered breaking news. She joined The Times in November 2021. More about Christine Chung
A version of this article appears in print on , Section F, Page 8 of the New York edition with the headline: Getting a Taste Of Singapore

In Singapore, Strolling Geylang Road for Food and Flavor - The New York Times

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

In Singapore, Strolling Geylang Road for Food and Flavor - The New York Times

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

11/6/23, 7:02 PM In Singapore, Strolling Geylang Road For Food and Flavor - The New York Times

A Savory Stroll Under the Neon Lights of Singapore

Published June 19, 2023 Updated Sept. 20, 2023

Sign up for the Travel Dispatch newsletter. Essential news on the

To start: Nasi padang

Walk west for durians and crabs

Still hungry? Stroll farther for skewers

Dim sum for your final meal

You might also like