serkinet

KDD & Co
 SERKINET
Balloon sleeves and a cropped length lend this twisted-stitch cardigan a dramatic silhouette. In old Scots,
a serkinet is a bodice or jerkin.

yarn special techniques

Kate Davies Designs Ooskit (100% British wool; 220m /
240yds per 100g skein)
Riach: 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9) x 100g skeins
Check sizing table for garment dimensions. If you wish to
add length to body or sleeves, you may need an extra skein
of yarn.
needles and notions
Gauge-size and below gauge-size circular needles of
appropriate lengths for working body
Gauge-size and below gauge-size needle(s) of your preferred
type for working small circumferences
Gauge-size dpn for working i-cord
Locking stitch markers and ordinary stitch markers
Waste yarn for holding stitches
Tapestry needle
8-12 buttons, approximately 1.5-2cm / ½-1in diameter
gauge
22 sts and 30 rows to 10cm / 4in over stockinette back and
forth using gauge-size needle. Use 4mm needle as a starting
point for swatching.
If your gauge has a tendency to draw in over small
circumferences, you may need to go up a needle size when
working sleeves.
Right Twist (RT): K2tog, leaving stitches on left-hand
needle. Knit first stitch only. Slip both stitches from needle.
Left Twist (LT): Slip one stitch knitwise, then slip next stitch
knitwise and return stitches to left-hand needle. Knit into the
back of the second stitch, then knit into the back of both
stitches together. Slip both stitches from needle.
I-cord bind off and buttonholes
Described in steps 11 and 12 of the pattern instructions.
pattern notes
This cardigan is worked from the bottom up, beginning with
a twisted rib hem. A series of twisted stitch chart panels are
placed over front and back, and the body is worked to the
underarms. Each front is then worked separately, followed by
the back, and both shoulders are joined with a three needle
bind off. Stitches are picked up around the armscyes for the
sleeves, which are worked top-down, without shaping, to
the gathered cuffs, which are formed with rapid decreases at
the wrist. A twisted rib neckband is worked, followed by two
buttonbands, which are finished with i-cord buttonholes and
an applied i-cord edging.

sizes
Finished bust circumference (with bands worn open):
87 (97, 103.5, 113.5, 120, 130, 140.5) cm / 34¼ (38¼, 41,
45¾, 47¼, 51¼, 55¼) in
(finished measurements take account of the drawing-in
effect of the twisted stitch panels)
Select the size above your actual bust measurement with the
amount of ease preferred. Shown in the second size.

sizing table
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th 7th
bust circumference (bands worn open)
87 97 103.5 113.5 120 130 140.5 cm
341/4 381/4 403/4 443/4 471/4 511/4 551/4 in
body length to underarm
25.5 26.5 28 29 30.5 32 33 cm
10 101/2 11 111/2 12 121/2 13 in
armscye depth
15 16 16.5 17 18 18.5 19 cm
8 81/4 81/2 83/4 9 91/4 91/2 in
sleeve length from underarm
42 43 44.5 45 47 48.5 49.5 cm
161/2 17 171/2 18 181/2 19 191/2 in

2
 S E R K I N E T

abbreviations
cm Centimetres
dec Decrease(d)
dpn Double pointed needle
est Established
foll Follow(s)(ing)
g Gram(s)
in Inch(es)
inc Increase(d)
k Knit
k2tog Knit the next two stitches together
lh Left-hand
lld WS left leaning decrease: Slip two stitches knitwise
and insert left-hand needle as if to ssk, remove
right-hand needle and purl these two stitches
together through the back of the loop
LT Left twist (see special techniques)
m1l Make 1 (left leaning): Bring the tip of the left-hand
needle under the strand between stitches, from
front to back. Knit through the back of this loop
p Purl
p2tog Purl the next two stitches together
pm Place marker
puk Pick up and knit
rem Remain(s)(ing)
rh Right-hand
rm Remove marker
RS Right side
RT Right twist (see special techniques)
sl Slip
slm Slip marker
ssk Slip two stitches knitwise one at a time, knit two
slipped stitches together through back of loop
st(s) Stitch(es)
tbl Through the back of the loop
WS Wrong side
yds Yards

schematic
th
e leng
Sleev
Armscye
depth
Length to
underam

Bust
circumference

3
 charts

h g f e back d c b a
24 24 24
23 23 23
21 21 21

24 19 24 19 24 19
23 23 23
17 17 17 k on
21 21 21
15 15 15 p on
19 19 19
13 13 13 k1tbl
17 17 17 k on RS; p o
11 11 11 RT
15 15 15 p on RS; k o
9 9 9 LT
13 13 13 k1tbl on RS
7 7 7
11 11 11 RT
5 5 5
9 9 9 LT
3 3 3
7 7 7
1 1 1
5 5 5 5 5 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

3 3 3
1 1 1
5 5 5 55 24
50 45 40 35 30 25 20 24 15 10 5 5 5 5 5 24
right 5 23 left 23 23
front 21 front 21 sleeve 21

24 19 24 19 24 19
23 23 23
17 17 17
21 21 21
15 15 15
19 19 19
13 13 13
17 17 17
11 11 11
15 15 15
9 9 9
13 13 13
7 7 7
11 11 11
5 5 5
9 9 9
3 3 3
7 7 7
1 1 1
29 25 20 15 10 5 5 29 25 20 15 10 5 5 47 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 5
3 3 3
1 1 1
29 25 20 15 10 5 29 25 20 15 10 5 47 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5

24
23
21
19 key
17 k on RS; p on WS
15 p on RS; k on WS
13 k1tbl on RS; p1tbl on WS
11 RT
9 LT
7

5
3

1
 S E R K I N E T

INSTRUCTIONS

1
cast on, set up markers, work rib Next row (WS): Work first 15 (15, 15, 17, 17,
17, 17) sts of row, then set these sts aside to
With below gauge-size needle, cast on 197 (221,
waste yarn (for front neck); work row to end.
237, 261, 277, 301, 325) sts, placing markers
35 (41, 45, 49, 53, 59, 65) sts rem
after first 50 (56, 60, 66, 70, 76, 82) sts and next
Keeping charts correct as est, shape left front
97 (109, 117, 129, 137, 149, 161) sts, markers
neck as foll:
separate fronts from back.
Next row (RS): Work from charts to 2 sts from
Next row (WS): K1, (p1tbl, k1) to end.
end, k2tog. 1 st dec
Next row (RS): P1, (k1tbl, p1) to end.
Next row (WS): P2tog, work from charts to
Work 15 more rows in twisted rib, ending with
end. 1 st dec
a WS row.
Repeat these two rows twice more. 4 sts dec; 29
(35, 39, 43, 47, 53, 59) sts rem

2
establish panels, work lower body
Next row (RS): Change to gauge-size needle,
and working from row 1 of each chart, establish
panels as foll:
Work 29 sts of right front panel, then chart A
2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) times followed by chart B 2
Keeping charts correct as est, work 4 more rows,
ending with a WS row and keeping a note of the
chart row on which you ended.
Set these 29 (35, 39, 43, 47, 53, 59) left
shoulder sts aside.

4
(2, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) times, then p1 (2, 1, 2, 1, 2, work right front
3) sts; slm, p1 (2, 1, 2, 1, 2, 3) sts, then work
Rejoin yarn to the right front from the WS and,
chart C 2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) times, followed by
working from the chart row subsequent to
chart D 2 (2, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) times; work 55 sts of
the one on which you ended, work right front
back panel, then work chart E 2 (2, 3, 4, 4, 5,
from charts as est until piece from underarm
5) times, followed by chart F 2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5)
separation matches left front (ending with a RS
times, then p1 (2, 1, 2, 1, 2, 3) sts; slm, p1 (2, 1,
row).
2, 1, 2, 3) sts, then work chart G 2 (2, 3, 4, 4, 5,
Next row (WS): Work from charts to end. Break
5) times followed by chart H 2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5)
yarn, and slip last 15 (15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 17) sts
times, then work 29 sts of left front panel.
to waste yarn for right front neck. 35 (41, 45,
This row sets panel placement.
49, 53, 59, 65) sts rem
Working back and forth in rows, and keeping
Rejoin yarn to remaining right front sts and,
panel placement and reverse stockinette pattern
keeping charts correct as est, shape right front
(adjacent to side markers) correct as est, repeat
neck as foll:
chart rows 1-24 until piece from cast-on edge
Next row (RS): Ssk, work from charts to end.
measures 25.5 (26.5, 28, 29, 30.5, 32, 33) cm /
1 st dec
10 (10½, 11, 11½, 12, 12½, 13) in, ending with
Next row (WS): Work from charts to 2 sts from
a WS row, and keeping a note of the chart row on
end, lld. 1 st dec
which you ended.
Repeat these two rows twice more. 4 sts dec; 29
(35, 39, 43, 47, 53, 59) sts rem

3
separate fronts from back; work left front Keeping twisted stitch panel pattern correct as
est, work 4 rows, ending with a WS row.
Next row (RS): Working from next row of charts Set 29 (35, 39, 43, 47, 53, 59) right shoulder sts
as est, work across right front to marker, then aside.
slip right front sts to waste yarn or spare needle,
rm; work across back sts, then slip back sts to

6
another length of waste yarn or spare needle, work back
rm; work across left front to end.
Rejoin yarn to back sts from the WS and working
Continue working on left front only from charts
from the chart row subsequent to the one on
as est until piece from underarm separation
which you ended, and keeping charts correct as
measures 15 (16, 16.5, 17, 18, 18.5, 19) cm / 6
est, work until length of back exactly matches
(6¼, 6½, 6¾, 7, 7¼, 7½) in, ending with a RS
fronts, ending with a WS row.
row and keeping a note of the chart row on which
Moving sts along needle without knitting, slip
you ended.
29 (35, 39, 43, 47, 53, 59) sts to a spare gauge-

5
S E R K I N E T
size needle for shoulder; slip 39 (39, 39, 43,
43, 43, 43) sts to waste yarn for back neck; slip
29 (35, 39, 43, 47, 53, 59) sts to another spare
needle for shoulder.
10
7
join shoulders
Left shoulder: Position 29 (35, 39, 43, 47, 53,
59) sts for back left shoulder and 29 (35, 39,
43, 47, 53, 59) sts for front left shoulder on two
gauge-size needles. Turn work inside out and
with right sides facing together, join shoulders
using three needle bind off.
Repeat step for right shoulder.
8
work sleeves
With gauge-size needle of your preferred type
11
for working small circumferences, and beginning
at centre of underarm, puk20 (22, 24, 24, 26,
26, 28) sts, pm, puk47 sts, pm, puk20 (22, 24,
24, 26, 26, 28) sts, puk1 st to mark underarm
centre and pm for start of round. 88 (92, 96, 96,
100, 100, 104) sts
Next round: P to marker, work next 47 sts from
round 1 of sleeve chart, slm, p to end of round.
This round sets reverse stockinette and chart
pattern.
Repeating chart rounds 1-24, work sleeve in
reverse stockinette and chart pattern until sleeve
measures 34.5 (35.5, 37, 38, 39.5, 40.5, 42) cm
/ 13½ (14, 14½, 15, 15½, 16, 16½) in or desired
length minus 7.5cm / 3in.
Change to below gauge-size needle and k2tog
around. 44 (46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52) sts dec; 44
(46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52) sts rem
Next round: (K1tbl, p1) around.
Repeat this round 19 times or until cuff measures
7.5cm / 3in.
Bind off in rib.
Make another sleeve to match.
9
work neckband
With below gauge-size needle, and beginning at
right front, slip 15 (15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 17) right
front sts from waste yarn to needle and k across
them; puk10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts up right
front neck; slip 39 (39, 39, 43, 43, 43, 43) back
neck sts from waste yarn to needle and k across
them; puk10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts down
left front neck, then slip 15 (15, 15, 17, 17, 17,
17) left front sts from waste yarn to needle and k
across them. 89 (89, 89, 97, 97, 97, 97) sts
Next row (WS): K1, (p1tbl, k1) to end.
6
Work in twisted rib as est for 7 more rows.
Bind off all sts in rib.
left front band
With RS facing, puk3 sts for every 4 rows down
left front edge, ensuring final number is a
multiple of 2 +1.
Next row (WS): P1tbl, (k1, p1tbl) to end.
Next row (RS): K1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) to end.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more, then work one
further WS row.
Cast on 2 sts using backwards loop cast on and
work i-cord bind off across all sts as foll:
*k1, k2togtbl, return 2 sts from rh to lh needle;
repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2togtbl, and fasten
off.
right front band and buttonholes
With RS facing puk3 sts for every 4 rows up right
front edge, ensuring final number is a multiple
of 2+1.
Next row (WS): P1tbl, (k1, p1tbl) to end.
Next row (RS): K1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) to end.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more, then work one
further WS row.
With safety pins or lockable stitch markers,
measure out and mark positions of 8-12 evenly
placed buttonholes along right front band.
Cast on 2 sts using backwards loop cast on
and work 2 st i-cord bind off across sts (as for
left front) inserting an i-cord buttonhole when
marker is reached as foll:
Using gauge-size dpn as rh needle:
1. Work 3 rows of plain i-cord on the 2 sts on
rh needle (i.e. *k2, slide sts to other end of
needle, pull working yarn across back; repeat
from * twice).
2. Retaining 2 sts on rh needle, slip next 2 sts
from lh needle to rh needle.
3. Pass the first st over the second (bind off 1 st).
4. Slip next st from lh needle to rh needle.
5. Pass the first st over the second (bind off 1 st).
6. Return remaining st plus the 2 i-cord sts
from rh to lh needle.
7. Continue to work i-cord bind off as before to
next marker.
Repeat steps 1-7 a further 7-11 times until all sts
are bound off.
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12
finishing
Weave in all ends to the back of the work. Soak
cardigan in warm water to allow the stitches
to relax and bloom. Press dry between towels.
Pin out flat to dimensions given in sizing table,
paying close attention to the chart panels, to
the shape of the sleeves, to the buttonbands
(which should be overlapped and pinned in
place) and to the ribbing (which should not be
overstretched). Allow to fully dry. When dry,
stitch buttons into place along left buttonband,
corresponding to buttonholes.

Enjoy your Serkinet!

7
 KDD & Co

Design by and ©Kate Davies Designs Ltd 2022