The Sprinkler Valve

Table of Contents

Introduction................................................................................................................................................1

Electronic Activation..................................................................................................................................3

Basic Modification .....................................................................................................................................4

Replacing the Diaphragm..........................................................................................................................6

Conversion to a Piston Valve ....................................................................................................................9

The Anti-Siphon Sprinkler Valve ...............................................................................................................12

Modifying a Blowgun .................................................................................................................................14

Troubleshooting ........................................................................................................................................16

Sources .....................................................................................................................................................17

ii
 Introduction

This book is all about the sprinkler valve. It contains information that is commonly asked and some
information that is not normally asked. Anyone who reads this, whether familiar with a sprinkler valve or
not, should find it helpful. This book assumes that one will already be familiar with the fundamentals of
launcher construction and this will not be discussed.

As with any launcher part, a sprinkler valve will have a pressure rating, usually found on the box the valve
came in. Please note that this pressure rating is for water and not compressed air.

If water pressure exceeds the pressure rating and the pipe or valve fails, the water, being an
incompressible fluid, will not expand any further. This usually results in the pipe or valve cracking. If the
pipe or valve fails with air pressure, the air will continue to expand until the volume of air equals
atmospheric pressure, creating an explosion, which is not good.

Do not take the pressure past the pressure rating. It may hold it and it may not. Chances are, the
diaphragm will fail first, but, again, it may not. If a valve malfunctions due to excessive pressure, (1) you
WILL know it and (2) it is not my fault.

What is a Sprinkler Valve?

A sprinkler valve is a diaphragm valve used to activate sprinkler systems for lawns.
They are set up on an electronic circuit which is controlled by a timer and allow water to flow through pipe
at a given time period. Out of the box, the valve will have a solenoid attached. The solenoid works by
using an electromagnet to pull a rod, which opens a small pilot hole. The pilot volume dumps from this
hole and flows into the exhaust end of the valve. This dumping creates a unequal pressures on both
sides of the diaphragm. The diaphragm is then forced off the exhaust port, allowing for the water to flow
through the valve.

Anatomy of a Sprinkler Valve

Besides an anti-siphon sprinkler valve, inline sprinkler valves will have one of two configurations. It will
either be a chamber-sealing valve or a barrel-sealing valve. Chamber-sealing valves will have a guide
rod through the center of the diaphragm.

Sprinkler valves have arrows located on the valve body. The arrows point to the direction the fluid will
flow. It is important to pay attention to these arrows, as a valve hooked up backwards will not function.

Some sprinkler valves have a flow control. This is usually in the form of a small screw in the cover. This
screw, as one could guess, controls the flow of fluid through the valve. For launcher applications, this
screw is not needed and its hole is usually filled with epoxy. If the screw is to be left in place, it is best to
adjust it to obtain the highest flow it will allow.
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An equalization hole is used to fill the pilot volume with the same pressure as the input. It can be found in
barrel-sealing sprinkler valves in the form of a small plastic piece in the diaphragm. The plastic piece
contains a small filter on the underside of the diaphragm. On chamber-sealing sprinkler valves, an
equalization hole will not be present, as the gap between the diaphragm and the guide rod is built to
equalize the pilot volume.

Disassembly of the sprinkler valve is rather simple. Normally, eight screws will hold the cover onto the
valve body, although some sprinkler valves will have a jar top design, allowing for one plastic piece to be
screwed off for disassembly. Inside the sprinkler valve is a spring and a diaphragm. If the valve contains
a guide rod, it will normally be connected to the cover and this valve will also contain a seal ring, which
can be removed.

How it Works
Sprinkler valves are pressurized through the inlet. As it pressurizes, water passes through the
equalization hole (or the gap between the guide rod and diaphragm) to pressurize the pilot area with the
same pressure. A small hole leads from the pilot area to the solenoid area. Another hole leads from the
solenoid area to the outlet. When the solenoid is charged, it raises up, causing the seal to break, which
allows the pilot area to depressurize. Now that the diaphragm has unequal pressures on both sides, the
water pushes up on the diaphragm. The water then flows from the inlet to the outlet. This flow is
continuous until the solenoid reseals.

Out of the box, a sprinkler valve can be used.

There is a little tab on the valve, located right
next to the solenoid. By flipping the tab, the
solenoid piston is manually lifted, causing the
valve to activate. This technique is not used
often, however, as it defeats the purpose of
setting up the valve for electronic use and
modifying the sprinkler valve eliminates the need
for this.

What a Sprinkler Valve Really Does

Sprinkler valves are often used in launcher designs. They present several features that warrant this.
First off, they are easy to obtain, usually found in the irrigation section at any credible hardware store.
They easily join with other pipe fittings as well. Compared to ball valves, sprinkler valves open much
easier and allow for much faster opening times, which will greatly enhance the performance of any
launcher.

Compared to homemade piston and diaphragm valves, sprinkler valves are already configured. If the
piston or diaphragm valve is made correctly, a sprinkler valve, unfortunately, has a hard time of keeping
up with the flow rate and opening times. However, for most applications, sprinkler valves are ideal.

2
 Electronic Activation

Setting up a sprinkler valve for electronic activation has its pros and cons. First off, the pros. It allows the
trigger to be placed anywhere on the launcher and allows more control over the trigger and the entire
launcher when firing. Because it is electric, the possibilities for activation are endless, including remote
activation, motion sensor activation, and so on. It also allows for an electronic safety to be added.

The cons of electronic activation are that it utilizes the solenoid to activate the valve. The sprinkler valve
is not set up to open fast, as their intended use is to allow water flow. When using compressed air, the
same applies, which means that it will have poor performance compared to modifying the valve. Also,
setting the valve up for electronic activation is more bulky and more expensive than modifying the valve.
Lastly, this method requires batteries. Batteries have a habit of going dead (which is why the little tab is
on the valve).

Still, some prefer this method of activation. The solenoid on a sprinkler valve is rated for 24 volts. I've
successfully used two 9 volt batteries (18 volts) and three 9 volt batteries (27 volts). Using three
batteries, the solenoid will open faster, but it's nothing that will be noticed, so two batteries is
recommended.

If desired, one battery could be used. This, however, is not recommended, as the solenoid will open
much slower and may even not open fully, restricting the pilot flow even more.

Wiring the Solenoid

Wiring the solenoid is fairly simple. One will
need a battery box, 9 volt connectors (or
connectors made for the batteries of choice), at
least one switch, and extra small gauge wire.
The batteries should be wired in series and
connected to the switch(s) and solenoid.

The diagram illustrates the schematics for using

three batteries and two switches. Components
can be added or deleted appropriately.

Modifications
Normally, the sprinkler valve is not modified in any way when wired electronically. The exhaust hole can
be expanded, but it cannot be any larger than the solenoid seal. This means that the expansion is only
going to be minimal and it will not be noticed. It is also more difficult to enlarge the pilot solenoid hole
than any other method of modification. In other words, it is not worth the trouble. Unless one is skilled
enough to do so, the solenoid should not be modified in any way. And, again, even if the solenoid is
modified, it will not be noticed in the performance.

Final Thoughts
As mentioned above, a sprinkler valve is not designed to open fast. It is designed to lift the diaphragm in
a controlled manner and allow water to pass, while, at the same time, eliminating water pressure spikes
that may damage the pipes and other material. The real benefit from a sprinkler valve is to use a
pneumatically modified valve.

3
 Basic Modification

Most people choose to modify the sprinkler valve for pneumatic operation. This method is simple and the
performance gain is quite noticeable compared to electronic activation. It eliminates the need to use any
electronics and can be configured fairly comfortably, using the right pieces.

In modifying a sprinkler valve, the solenoid is bypassed. The pilot area is exhausted much faster than
normal, which causes the diaphragm to open much faster. This causes the chamber to dump much
faster and performance gains can be up to two times that of a sprinkler valve utilizing the solenoid.

Modifying the Valve

In order to modify a sprinkler valve, the cover is removed. A hole is drilled in the center of the cover, a
small valve of some sort is placed in the cover, and the cover is replaced back on the valve.
3 1 7
On standard sprinkler valves ( /4" and 1"), a /4" NPT (national pipe threads) is normally used. Use a /16"
1
drill bit to drill a hole through the cover. Use a /4" NPT pipe tap to cut the threads.
1
If one does not have access to a pipe tap, then a /2" hole can be drilled in the cover and a metal pipe
fitting used to cut threads, usually the one that will be used.

Teflon tape is wrapped around the fitting that will be used, and it threaded into the hole. To properly wrap
teflon tape around threads, simply face the bottom of the threads away and wrap four or five layers
around the threads clockwise. Sometimes, epoxy is used to hold the fitting in place, as the walls on the
cover may be fairly thin.

Any number of fittings can be used here. A hose barb is pretty standard and pictured above. It allows for
a hose to be connected to the valve and the trigger relocated on the launcher. This does not come
without a side effect, however, as adding a hose will increase pilot volume, which will decrease the
launcher's performance, although the performance loss will be minimal and probably not be noticed.

Modifying a Valve With a Guide Rod

Some sprinkler valves have a guide rod in the
center. The guide rod is necessary for the valve
to function properly. Although there are some
exceptions to this, it is best to leave it in tact. All
that is needed is to have the hole drilled to the
side of the cover instead of its center. These
type valves also have a ring in the center that
can be removed. This ring is what creates the
groove for the cover to seal and, again, should
be left in place.

4
What to do With the Extra Pieces
Normally, the solenoid is removed and the hole is filled with epoxy. The bleed screw is usually removed
also (if the sprinkler valve has one), and its hole filled with epoxy. The solenoid can even be left in place
and wired electronic or pneumatic use.

Reassembly
Once the hole is tapped, the fitting is in place, the remaining holes are filled, and the epoxy is dry, it's time
to reassemble the cover. Inspect the cover, making sure it is free of any burrs and dust and wash it by
running it through water. Allow the pieces to dry and replace the cover in the same method as it was
removed.

Triggering the Valve

Although triggering a valve is only limited to one's imagination, there are two common methods for
triggering a modded sprinkler valve. One way is to use a ball valve and the other is to use a blowgun.
Each of these possesses advantages as well as disadvantages.

For starters, an advantage of a ball valve is that it has larger flow than a blowgun valve of equivalent size.
If the ball valve is spring loaded, it will dump the pilot area much faster than a blowgun can. The biggest
disadvantage to using a ball valve, however, is the fact that it is more awkward to use than a blowgun.
Also, the valve must be manually closed each time it is used.

A blowgun has the advantage of being push button activated. This alone may warrant its use, as this
gives the feel of a more conventional, more natural trigger system. Disadvantages include smaller flow
rate than a ball valve. This problem, fortunately, can be fixed by modifying the blowgun, which will give
almost the same amount of flow rate as a ball valve. Modifying a blowgun is discussed below.

Safety
Normally, a safety is not added to a modified sprinkler valve, but a safety is always a good idea. If a
safety is desired, as it should be, it usually comes in the form of a ball valve connected between the
sprinkler valve and the trigger valve. This way, the ball valve must be opened in order for the valve to be
triggered. Please note, however, that the safety ball valve needs to be placed directly next to the trigger
valve and opened slowly or it may pilot the sprinkler valve upon opening the safety.

Final Thoughts
Modifying a sprinkler valve has become standard in using one on a launcher. It allows for much faster
opening times than an electronic activated one and eliminates the need for any batteries or wires. It is a
simple modification that is definitely worth the effort.

5
 Replacing the Diaphragm

In order to complete this modification, it becomes imperative to understand how diaphragm valves work.

A diaphragm valve launcher consists of the main reservoir (chamber), the diaphragm seal, a barrel, a
secondary reservoir (pilot chamber), the fill valve, and the exhaust valve. In basic diaphragm launchers,
the fill valve and the exhaust valve are located next to each other, going into the pilot area, and may even
be the same valve. Sometimes, an equalization hole is made through the diaphragm to help fill the main
reservoir. These can be seen on sprinkler valves in barrel-sealing sprinkler valves, usually in the form of
a small plastic piece through the diaphragm.

The pilot volume is filled. This forces the diaphragm against the barrel and seals it. The air seeps from
the pilot chamber to the main chamber either by going around the edges of the diaphragm or by going
through the equalization hole. Once the chamber is filled to the correct pressure, the firing valve is
opened. This causes the air in the pilot chamber to exit. When this air exits, it creates unequal pressures
on both sides of the diaphragm. The air from the main chamber forces the diaphragm off the barrel. The
air then goes out the barrel.

In sprinkler valves, a spring is located behind the diaphragm. This forces the diaphragm to make a seal
against the exhaust port (barrel) of the valve, in turn, allowing the launcher to be filled through the main
chamber instead of the pilot chamber.

In this modification, the sprinkler valve's diaphragm is going to be replaced by a homemade one. By
doing so, the diaphragm will open further and be more durable. Please note that a sprinkler valve with a
guide rod is more difficult to use in completing this modification and, therefore, not recommended for this
modification.

Even though this modification is not that difficult, it is still best to gain experience with a homemade
diaphragm valve before attempting this modification on a sprinkler valve.

Obtaining the Parts

Take the sprinkler valve apart, including the internals. In the next steps, it's probably best to take the
lower portion of the valve (the valve body) and the valve spring to a hardware store.

Find the neoprene washers. Locate one that will be slightly larger than the opening in the valve body by
1
approximately /4". A good reference would be to place the neoprene washer on the valve body and the
edges of the washer should touch the o-ring groove. Purchase enough so that, when stacked together, it
1
equals approximately /8". This way, it will be flexible enough yet stiff enough at the same time.

Next, find the flat washers. Find a washer that has the same outside diameter as the spring's inside
diameter. In other words, the spring should fit snugly around the washer.

6
Obtain a short bolt and lock nut that will fit into the washer. If a lock nut is not obtained, a lock washer
can be used.

Note: An alternative to using steel pieces would be to use nylon pieces. These come in the same
configurations as steel pieces, with the exception of lock nuts and lock washers, and cut down the weight
of the diaphragm dramatically, which will allow for faster opening times, although, it may even not be
noticed with this mod.

Last, find the o-ring section. Locate an o-ring that will fit in the groove of the valve body. This is the
groove that runs along the edge of the valve body that the diaphragm rests in. The o-ring should be
slightly stretched to fit in the gap, and be able to fill the gap at the same time. If an o-ring is not obtained,
a thin gasket material can be used, however, holes will need to be punched through it to allow for the
screws. If that is not desired, most plumbing sections will have a teflon cord used for similar purposes as
o-rings. These can be cut to fit any shape and work just as good.

An alternative to locating and installing an o-ring

or any other purchased seal, is to use the
valve's original diaphragm. On the edge of the
diaphragm, there will be a ridge. This ridge sits
in the above-mentioned groove to seal the
cover. Trim the diaphragm to obtain the ridge
and use that.

Note: If this method is used, be sure that the

original diaphragm is no longer needed, as it will
be unusable afterwards.

Rebuilding the Valve

Place the neoprene disk on the bolt, followed by
the washer. If one is obtained, place the lock
washer on the bolt. Tighten it down with the nut.

Place the o-ring (or other seal material) in the

groove on the valve body. Press the rubber
piece into the valve body. The rubber piece
should form a bowl. Keep pressing and working
the piece in until it touches the exhaust port.
Make sure that it is straight, i.e. one edge is not
higher than the other.

7
Place the spring over the washer and reattach the cover. The sprinkler valve now has a new diaphragm.

Testing the Valve

At this point, the valve may or may not work. It may require an equalization hole. There is only one way
to find out. Install the valve on a chamber and pressurize. Try to fire the valve. If the valve does not fire,
check the troubleshooting guide below.

If the diaphragm will require an equalization hole, it is best to use a sewing needle. Push the needle
through the rubber and work back and forth a few times.

Final Thoughts
This modification will enhance a modified sprinkler valve. The enhancement will not be that great, but it
will be noticeable. It does so by eliminating unnecessary parts from the valve's original diaphragm and by
cutting down the weight. This allows the diaphragm to open up further and faster than the original
diaphragm, which increases the flow rate.

8
 Conversion to a Piston Valve
In order to complete this modification, it becomes imperative to understand how piston valves work.

A piston valve works in a similar manner as a diaphragm valve. It possesses the same parts (main
chamber, pilot chamber, a seal, the fill valve, and the exhaust valve). Instead of a flexible piece of rubber,
however, a piston valve uses a solid piece with a seal. When piloted, the whole unit, called the piston,
moves away from the exhaust port (the barrel), allowing the main chamber to dump into the exhaust.

In this modification, the sprinkler valve's diaphragm is going to be replaced with a homemade piston
valve. The piston valve, if built correctly, will open even further than a homemade diaphragm valve,
which will yield even better results. Again, it is much easier to do this modification on a sprinkler valve
that does not contain a guide rod.

Also, the same advice will be given as was with the homemade diaphragm mod. Although this
modification is not that difficult, it is best to have experience with piston valves before beginning this
modification on a sprinkler valve.

Obtaining the Parts

As in the diaphragm mod above, the piston mod will require a few extra parts. This means that it is best
to take the valve body to a hardware store to purchase pieces. The spring may or may not be needed.

Obtain a neoprene washer that is the same diameter as the valve body opening. If necessary, a larger
one can be purchased and trimmed to size.

Obtain a short bolt and lock nut that will fit into the washer. If a lock nut is not obtained, a lock washer
can be used.

If the spring will be used, obtain a flat washer with the same size OD as the spring's ID, as mentioned in
the diaphragm mod..

Note: As mentioned in the diaphragm mod, nylon pieces may be used as well. Read the note in the
diaphragm mod for more detail.

Follow the steps on page 8 on obtaining an o-ring for the groove in the valve body.

Building the Piston Body

Once the pieces are obtained, and assuming one has scrap pieces of PVC, obtain a piece of PVC sheet.
This can be done by splitting a piece of pipe (at least 2" Sch40). Boil the pipe until it becomes pliable,
then flatten the pipe and allow to cool. If done correctly, the PVC should be flat. If not, continued to boil
the piece and flatten it.

Alternatively, one can simply purchase PVC sheet or other similar product.

9
Once the PVC sheet is obtained, it's time to make a circle. Measure the opening on the valve body.
Using a bow compass, set it at half the opening diameter. Use the bow compass to draw a circle on the
PVC sheet and use a rotary tool to cut and sand out the circle. Make sure the circle is perfect, or this
modification will not work.

Once the circle is cut, clean it and insert it into the opening to make sure it fits snugly, but will slide
smoothly.

Building the Piston

There should be a mark in the center of the PVC

disk left from the bow compass. Drill this mark
the same diameter as the bolt. Insert the
neoprene washer, followed by the PVC disk,
onto the bolt. If a lock washer was obtained,
insert it onto the bolt. Secure these pieces with
the nut.

Equalization Hole
In most cases, the piston will not be an exact perfect circle. If this is the case, make the rubber washer
just slightly larger than the piston body. This will help seal the chamber.

If one does manage to cut a perfect circle, an equalization hole will be needed. Make sure the rubber
disk is the same size as the piston body. Drill a hole through the piston body near the edge, then
1
assemble the piston. A /32 " hole is ideal. The equalization hole will act as a check valve, allowing air to
travel from the pilot to the chamber, but not from the chamber to the pilot.

Adding a Bumper
It is now time to add a bumper. This will be needed to keep the piston from slamming into the cover upon
piloting the valve, damaging it. Again, this will be limited to the imagination but note that the bumper
needs to small but strong. Aquarium tubing works perfectly, as well as a fairly large (diameter) o-ring.

10
Filling the Chamber
If the spring is not used or if the piston utilizes an equalization hole as described above, the launcher will
need to be pressurized through the pilot area. Otherwise, it can be filled conventionally.

Final Thoughts
Because (normally) the spring is not in place, the piston will open faster and further than the homemade
diaphragm mod. This is enhanced if nylon hardware is used. Paired with a spring loaded ball valve or
modified blowgun, this modification will bring out the true potential of any sprinkler valve and it will nearly
be able to hold its own against a homemade piston valve of equal size. This is modifying a sprinkler
valve at its finest.

11
 The Anti-Siphon Sprinkler Valve

Sometimes, an anti-siphon sprinkler valve is used. These types of sprinkler valves are U-shaped and are
used to construct an over / under launcher. They have the advantage of making the over / under
launcher have a very close configuration as well as eliminate the need for additional pipe fittings.

Anti-siphon sprinkler valves do have disadvantages, however. They have less flow than an inline
sprinkler valve, as seen in the below diagram. They also tend to be more expensive.

Modifying an Anti-Siphon Sprinkler Valve

Although it is possible to modify an anti-siphon sprinkler valve as an inline sprinkler valve, it is also very
easy to damage the pieces while doing so and is very difficult to do.

It seems as if the flow control stem can be removed and tapped, however, there are internal valve parts
that feed to the pilot area and these parts would have to be patched very carefully. This "patching" is
what will damage the valve.

Even if one does manage to pneumatically modify an anti-siphon sprinkler valve, the flow is still going to
be horrible, and the results are going to be minimal at best. There are a few modifications for these
valves that are fairly simple to do, however, that will enhance its performance slightly.

12
Valve Body Modification
Disassemble the valve. Using a large drill bit, drill through the exhaust end of the valve to eliminate the
existing wall. Make sure the bit is large enough to make a decent sized hole, while at the same time,
taking care not to damage any threads on the valve body. Refer to the below diagram for more detail.

This modification will eliminate a few turns the air will have to make, slightly enhancing the valve's flow
rate.

Solenoid Modification
The solenoid can be replaced with a trigger valve. Obtain a threaded pipe fitting that is as close a match
as possible to the solenoid threads. A metal bushing is ideal, since it will cut new threads over the
existing ones more easily and allow for threads for a pilot valve. Saturate the pipe fitting threads with
epoxy and screw it into place. The small hole leading to the chamber from the solenoid pilot will also
need to be filled. This is located at different spots on sprinkler valves, but should be easy to locate.

For the most part, all this is going to do is eliminate the need for any electronics, although it will enhance
the pilot exhaust somewhat, allowing for faster pilot.

Before the fitting is added, the pilot hole can be enlarged, however, care needs to be taken when doing
this, as the pilot hole may become too large and damage the valve body.

Float Valve Modification

Another thing that can be done is fixing the float cap so that it does not move. This can be done by filling
it with epoxy to hold the float in place, however, be careful not to expose the seal to any epoxy. This mod
can only be done if the hole was drilled in the valve body as described above. It allows the air to flow in
the direction it needs to.

Reassembly
The valve will reassemble the same way it was disassembled, however, any filters should be removed.

Final Thoughts
These valves are great for an over / under launcher where power is not necessarily needed. An example
would be a paintball LAW. They present all the features of any other electronic sprinkler valve and allow
for a close fit between the chamber and barrel. For most applications, however, one would be better off
simply purchasing a few extra pipe fittings and building a launcher worth building.
13
 Modifying a Blowgun

Blowgun valves are often used to pilot a modified sprinkler valve. They are easy to obtain, easy to setup,
and easy to use. The one thing the do lack, however, is decent flow (compared to a ball valve of equal
size) and in order to get the blowgun up to par, it must be modified.

Modifying a blowgun tends to be more difficult than modifying a sprinkler valve. Again, experience comes
in to play, and the only way to gain experience in modifying a blowgun is to, well, modify a blowgun. I
suggest starting with several.

Pictured below is a Husky blowgun, which can be purchased at any credible hardware store.

The Nozzle
The first step in modifying a blowgun, after disassembly, is to discard the nozzle. The nozzle greatly
1
limits the flow of the blowgun. This piece screws into the tip of the blowgun using /8" NPT threads,
meaning, if necessary, the tip can be connected to another piece of pipe.

The Piston Housing

Separate the piston housing. If the piston housing has an o-ring, remove it. These can easily be
removed using dental picks or similar, however, be careful not to damage it.

On the piston housing, there should be two

adjacent holes. These holes need to be
enlarged. Make them as large as possible, but
also make sure the valve pin o-rings are not
exposed. A good start would be to use a drill bit
that, when centered in the current hole, the edge
of the drill bit touches the threads. On the above
1
blowgun, a /4" bit was used.

14
The Piston

Now, we need to modify the piston. There is a

narrow portion on the valve pin between two o-
ring grooves. Remove the o-rings and clamp
the valve pin in a vice. Slowly file out this
narrow section (noted in red in the image to the
right), making it about half the diameter it once
was.

Modifying the Body

The last step in modifying a blowgun is to work on the body. Use a drill bit that will drill the input and
output portion of the body (usually, these are different sizes), but one that will not damage any threads.
Another option would be to cut the tip off, then drill the holes.

Reassembly
Once the pieces have been modified, make sure there are no burrs on any of them. Wash the pieces by
running them under water and replace the o-rings. Lubricate the internals with air tool oil and reassemble
the blowgun.

Final Thoughts
In most circumstances, modifying the blowgun will yield a flow rate that is nearly equal to a ball valve of
equal size. This way, one can have the best of both worlds.

Some opt to add a spacer in the lever so that the piston is fully depressed. This is not recommended, as
the piston may end up being pushed further than needed, which will cause the valve to not function
properly. Also, it will not lead to any better results.

15
 Troubleshooting

Sometimes, a sprinkler valve will have some trouble. This is usually due to some error in the modification
process, but could be a manufacturer's error as well.

The valve will not seal around the cover

Make sure the diaphragm ridge is properly placed into the grooves and not damaged. If the diaphragm
has been replaced, make sure the o-ring (or other material) is clean, properly sealed, and not damaged.

The valve makes a honking or airhorn noise

The noise is caused by the diaphragm moving back and forth, causing only short bursts of air to exhaust.
The problem is caused by the pilot valve being too small. This is a common problem on larger sprinkler
valves and valves that use only the solenoid due to the pilot valve being too small. Replace the pilot
valve with a larger one.

The valve is leaking air out of the barrel

This is cause by a dirty or damaged diaphragm and it will not make a seal against the exhaust port.
Disassemble the valve and clean the diaphragm with a mild soap. Allow the diaphragm to dry and
lubricate it with lithium grease. Reassemble. If the problem persists, replace the diaphragm, as it is
defective.

The valve will not seal during pressurization

This problem is caused by a number of factors.
1) The equalization hole is too small. Enlarge the hole using a needle. This should only occur on
homemade diaphragms or pistons. Do not enlarge the equalization hole on the original diaphragm as it
may damage the diaphragm.
2) There is a small leak in the top of the valve, causing it to constantly dump the pilot. Usually, the
threaded fitting is not sealed on the cover. This can be fixed by putting epoxy around the fitting. If that
doesn't work, make sure the valve is sealed around the cover and make sure the pilot valve is not
defective.
3) The valve may be on backwards. There should be arrows on the valve, indicating the flow.
4) If the solenoid is still in tact, it may be defective or the solenoid tab may be open. Close the tab,
replace the solenoid, or fill in the solenoid hole with epoxy.
5) The chamber may be filling too slowly, not allowing for the air to equalize on the pilot side. This is
usually caused by filling the chamber with a hand pump. First, try moving the fill valve from the chamber
to the pilot area, causing the pilot volume to fill first. If that doesn't work, place a ball valve between the
chamber and the sprinkler valve, fill the chamber, then open the ball valve to seat the diaphragm. The
better option would be to use a compressor or regulated air source, however.

Air leaks out of the pilot valve when fired and not the barrel
The diaphragm may be damaged or the equalization hole is too large. Also, if the diaphragm is
homemade, it may not be even along the edges or it may not be the right size. The equalization hole
could be partially filled in, but the best bet is to replace the diaphragm.

The solenoid will not actuate the valve

Either the solenoid is defective, it is not opening fast enough, or it's not powerful enough to exhaust the
pilot. Replace the solenoid, enlarge the pilot exhaust, add another battery, or modify the valve.

After firing the launcher, the diaphragm gets stuck in the open position
If filling from the chamber, move the fill valve to behind the diaphragm. If that doesn't fix the problem,
make sure the diaphragm is clean and not obstructed. Also, make sure the spring is properly aligned. If
this does not fix the problem, replace the diaphragm.

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 Sources

Spudfiles.com

The Spudgun Technology Center

Orbit Irrigation Products, Inc

Hall Consulting's Gas Gun Design Tool

Husky Tools

RainBird Sprinkler Systems

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