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MIT12_802S08_lec13
MIT12_802S08_lec13
Let us take the linearized shallow water equation on a f-plane with D = constant.
A solid wall makes possible a rather special wave trapped at the wall, a gravity wave
Ocean
Figure 13-1
v≡0
the wall
∂
From 3 ηt = -Dux ⇒ ηtt = -D (ut)
∂x
∂ ∂ 1
of 1 gηxx = - (ut) = ηtt
∂x ∂x D
ηtt-gDηxx = 0
2
-ω2η-gDηxx = 0 ω
⇒ ηxx + η=0
gD
ikx
e so the traveling wave is ei(kx-ωt)
ω = (gD)k
2 2
ω = ±cok co = gD
This is the shallow water gravity wave dispersion relationship without rotation!!
∂
of 2 → fut = -gηyt
∂x
From 1: ut = -gηx
or fηx - ηyt = 0
da
fka+ω =a
dy
da fk -fk
= − dy ⇒ a(y) = ηoexp ( y)
a ω ω
ω
or as = co
k
f
- y
a(y) = ηoe co
Full solution
η = ηo exp − (f/coy)cos(kx-ωt)
Notice that if the wave is on the y>0 side as in the above configuration
ω
lim y → +∞ η = finite = 0 co = + gD = >0
k
and k>0
and k<0
The wave travels in the – x direction
In either case, in the northern hemisphere f>0. The Kelvin wave always travels with the
The wave amplitude decreases exponentially away from the wall. The wave is trapped
Rotation does not affect the particle motion and wave propagation; only traps the wave to
the coastline.
v≡0 1. ut = -gηx
2. fu = -gηy
3. ηt+Dux= 0
⇒ ω = ± cok
ηxx +(ω2 /gD) η = 0 η = ei(kx-ωt)
co = gD
η = a(y)ei(kx-ωt)
k
-f y
a(y) = ηoe ω
co
= Rossby deformation radius
f
Rotation does not affect the particle motion or wave propagation, only traps the wave at
the coast.
The Kelvin wave always travels with the coast on its right side in the Northern
Hemisphere
ss
gre
f pro
no
ti o
rec
Di
s
res
rog
o fp
t ion
rec
Di
Figure. 13-2 Northern hemisphere Kelvin waves on opposite sides of a channel that is wide compared
with the Rossby radius. In each vertical plane parallel to the coast, the currents (shown by arrows) are
entirely within the plane and are exactly the same as those for a long gravity wave in a nonrotating
channel. However, the surface elevation varies exponentially with distance from the coast in order to
give a geostrophic balance. This means Kelvin waves move with the coast on their right in the northern
hemisphere and on their left in the southern hemisphere.
ω
f Poincare modes
n=3
Kelvin wave
n=2
n=1
ω = Co k
ωmin
kL
Figure 13-3. Summary dispersion relation for the right moving waves.
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