KD-1 TK7252-1 (4-81) Copyright© 1981 - Thermo King Corp. Minneapolis, MN. U.S.A. Printed in USA.The information in this manual is provided to assist owners, operators and service ‘people in the proper upkeep and preventive maintenance of Thermo King units. For detailed descriptions of Thermo King electrical or refrigeration systems, see the Thermo King Electrical Systems or Refrigeration Systems Maintenance Manual. When any parts of the unit require repair or replacement, refer to the appropriate Thermo King compressor, electrical or refrigeration manual for detailed instruc- tions.Safety Precautions GENERAL PRACTICES 1. Never operate the unit with the compressor discharge valve closed. 2. Keep your hands clear of the fans and belts when the unit is running. This should also be considered when opening and closing the compressor service valves. 3. Be sure gauge manifold hoses are in good condi- tion. Never let them come in contact with a belt, fan motor pulley, or any hot surface. 4. ALWAYS WEAR GOGGLES OR SAFETY GLASSES. Refrigerant liquid and battery acid can permanently damage the eyes (see First Aid). Never apply heat to a sealed refrigeration system or container. Fluorocarbon refrigerants, in the presence of an ‘open flame or electrical short, produce toxic gases that are severe respiratory irritants capable of causing death. 7. Besure all mounting bolts are tight and are of the correct length for their particular application. 8. Use extreme caution when drilling holes in the unit, The holes may weaken structural com- ponents, and holes drilled into electrical wiring can cause fire or explosion, 9. Use caution when working around exposed coil fins. Painful laceration can be inflicted from the fins, 10. Use caution when working with a refrigerant or refrigeration system in any enclosed or confined area with a limited air supply (for example, a trailer, container or in the hold of a ship). Refrigerant tends to displace air and can cause ‘oxygen depletion which may result in death by suf- focation, REFRIGERANT Although fluorocarbon refri safe refrigerants, certain precautions must be observed when handling them or servicing a unit in which they are used. When released to the atmosphere from the liquid state, fluorocarbon refrigerants evaporate rapidly, freezing anything they contact. First Aid In the event of frost bite, the objectives of First Aid are to protect the frozen area from further injury, to warm the affected area rapidly and to maintain respiration. 1. Cover the frozen part. 2. Provide extra clothing and blankets. 3. Give the victim a warm drink (not alcohol). 4. Warm the frozen part quickly by immersing it in water that is warm, NOT HOT. 5. If warm water is not available or practical to use, wrap the affected part gently in a sheet and warm blankets. 6. If refrigerant contacts the eyes, flush them immediately with water. 7. Obtain medical assistance as soon as possible. REFRIGERATION OIL Avoid refrigeration oil contact with the eyes. Avoid pro- longed or repeated contact of refrigeration oil with skin or clothing. Wash thoroughly after handling refrigera- tion oil, especially before eating, to prevent irritation. First Aid In case of eye contact, immediately flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. CALL A PHYSICIAN. ‘Wash skin with soap and water.Table of Contents Unit Description (Operating Instructions Diesel Operation’ Electric Motor Operation Unit Controls Unit instruments Unit Safety Devices Specifications Periodic Service Guide Electric Maintenance Battery Charging System Defrost Components, Defrost Operation Intake Heater Testing Defrost System Thermostat Unit Wiring Engine Maintenance Air Cleaner Belt Tensions Clutch Crankcase Breather Electric Fuel Pump Engine Cooling System Engine Fuel System Engine Lubrication System Idle Stop and Throttle Solenoid Adjustments Refrigeration Maintenance Checking Compressor Oil Condenser Coil Defrost Drains Refrigerant Charge Refrigerant Leaks ‘Compound Pressure Gauge Refrigeration Service Operations Accumulator Compressor Condenser Coil Condenser Discharge and Bypass Check Vaive Discharge Vibrasorber Evaporator Coil Expansion Valve Power Assembly Pilot Solenoid Pressure Regulator Valve Receiver Tank Suction Vibrasorber ‘Three-way Valve ‘Structural Maintenance Defrost Damper Fan Location Fan Shaft Assembly Overhaul Jackshaft Assembly Unit and Engine Mounting Bolts Mechanical Trouble Shooting Refrigeration Troubleshooting Electric Standby Service Checks Refrigeration Diagram Defrost and Heating Diagram Wiring Diagram 8 2 BYBBBSSYSBSSB B RRSUnit Description ‘The Thermo King Model KD-I is a small, one-piece diesel powered unit for installation in straight trucks and small trailers. There are two basic models. All model 30's are diesel powered only, all model 50s are diesel powered, with electric standby capabilities. Power is provided by a TK235 2-cylinder diesel engine. ‘The engine is water cooled and utilizes a radiator and condenser coil combination. Power from the engine is transferred by belt drive to a 2eylinder 14 in.3 Thermo King D214 compressor. The models without electric standby capabilities (model 30) are direct belt drive with the electric motor being replac- ed by a jackshaft, Model 50 units utilize a 5 hp electric motor drive for electric standby operation. A clutch mounted on the diesel engine isolates the engine during, electric standby operation, ‘The clutch engages fully at 600 rpm on engine opera- tion, on both 30 & 50 models, constantly turning the compressor and fans at both high and low speeds. The KD uses a United Electric 2-switch thermostat along with a Heat/Cool Switch for operational control of the unit. During cooling operation, the unit will operate on high speed cool until the box temperature reaches 2 F (1.1 ©) above setpoint, then switching to low speed cool. Low speed cool operation continues down to setpoint. At setpoint, the unit switches to low speed heat operation. There is no high speed heat cycle when the Heat/Cool switch is in cool operation. The temperature will begin to rise, and at 4 F (2.2 C) above setpoint the unit will shift back into low speed cool. The KD will now cycle from low speed cool to low speed heat unless the box temperature raises 9 F (5 C) above setpoint forcing the unit to go to high speed cool, With the Heat/Cool switch in the heat position, the unit will have a high speed heat, low speed heat, and a low speed cool cycle, but no high speed cool cycle. ‘The KD is equipped with a fuel saver switch that locks the unit into the low speed heat to cool cycle operation with some loss of capacity but with an even greater reduction in fuel consumption. UNIT FEATURES @ UE 2-switch thermostat © Fuel Saver indicator light © Air intake heater © Fan-actuator defrost switch © Electronic engine hourmeter © 3-way valve refrigeration system © Oil bath air cleaner @ Electric fuel pumps © Fuel sediment bow! © Spin-on oil filter © Spin-on fuel filter © Roller bearing idlers © Roller bearing fanshaft SAFETY FEATURES © Engine low oil pressure cutout © Engine high temperature cutout © 12V circuit breaker in control circuit © 12V circuit breaker for intake heater © Refrigerant high pressure cutout © Refrigerant high pressure relief valve © Evaporator high temperature safety switch. ‘SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS UNIT. Nameplate on right end on unit frame. ENGINE. Nameplate on rocker arm cover (also on cylinder block below starter). COMPRESSOR. Stamped on side below sight glass. STANDBY MOTOR. Nameplate on top of motor. OPERATING MODES High Low Low High Speed Cool Speed Cool Speed Heat Speed Heat Null Engine operation, cooling, with fuel saver . = Engine operation, cooling w/o fuel saver = . . Engine operation, heating, with fuel saver . = Engine operation, heating w/o fuel saver . ° © Electric operation, cooling 7 = Electric operation, heating _ = ©Operating Instructions , DIESEL OPERATION Daily Checks Inspect the following before starting the unit or loading the truck or trailer: 1. FUEL SUPPLY. Fill with No. 2 diesel fuel. The use of No, | diesel fuel during cold weather opera tions is acceptable. 2. ENGINE OIL LEVEL. Should be at the FULL mark. DO NOT overfill. Dipstick is located in the engine block on the curbside of the unit. Use heavy duty oil designated for service CD-SD or CDSE. Below 0 F (-18 C) Continuous SAE SW-30 Below 32 F (0) SAEIOW Above 32 F (0 C) SAE 30 NOTE: Use of improper viseosity oil in cold ‘weather can produce low oil pressure shutdowns. Dipstick Weekly Checks RADIATOR COOLANT LEVEL. Do not remove radiator cap when cooling system is hot. Remove radiator cap to check level. Coolant should be no lower than 2 in. (51 mm) from the top of the filler neck. CAUTION: Check radiator when unit is cool. CAUTION: Always use a mixture of 50% anti- freeze and water to fill cuoling system to prevent accumulator tank lines from freezing. LEAKS. Inspect for fuel leaks, engine oil leaks, refrigerant leaks and coolant leaks. CONDENSER AND EVAPORATOR COILS. Clean if necessary. 4, VISUALLY. Check for physical damage. DEFROST DRAINS. Check defrost drain hoses and fittings to be sure that they are open so con- densate can run out during defrosting. Check bottom end of drain hose to be sure that it is not plugged or crushed. 6. DAMPER DOOR. Check damper door for bind: ing or broken return springs. Starting the Unit 1, Snap Diesel-Eleciric switch to Diesel position on units with electri standby. 2. Select fuel saver or maximum capacity mode with fuel saver switch. NOTE: Do not activate fuel saver when max- imum cooling or heating is required as the unit capacity is reduced by 30%. 3. Turn HEAT—COOL switch to desired mode of operation. Hold PREHEAT—START switch in PREHEAT position for the required time. Ambient Temperature 32 F to 60 F (0-16 ©) Below 32 F (0) 5. Snap unit switch ON, 6. Snap PRE-HEAT—START switch to START position to crank engine. Release when engine starts, In cold weather, it is best to repeat preheat if engine does not start within 30 seconds of crank- ing time. NOTE: The high speed start relay holds the engine in high speed when engaging the start posi- tion of the PRE-HEAT—START switch. 7. If engine fails to start, repeat Steps 4 and 6. CAUTION: Never use starting flui Pre-Heat Time 1/2 minute 1 minute After Start Inspection 1, Listen for abnormal noises. 2. CHECK THERMOSTAT CYCLING. Turn the Heat-Cool switch to the cool position and the fuel, saver switch to the maximum capacity position. The fuel saver light should be off. Turn the ther- mostat dial down scale until the unit shifts to high speed cool, Turn the dial upscale. At approximately 2 to 3 F(1.2 to 1.8 © below box temperature, the unit should shift to Low Speed Cool. Continuing upscale slowly, the unit will shift from Low Speed. Cool to Low Speed Heat at approximately box temperature. NOTE: The shift to heat can be determined by a slight change in the sound of the engine and the sound of the 3-way valve shifting. ‘Switch the Heat-Cool switch to the Heat position, ‘The fuel saver switch should still be on maximum. capacity. NOTE: The box temperature must be below 70 F 21.1 © to allow the unit to shift to the heat cycle. Turn the thermostat dial upscale until the unit shifts to High Speed Heat. Slowly turn the dial downscale. The unit should shift from High Speed Heat to Low Speed Heat at approximately 4 F (2.4 ©) below box temperature and switch to Low ‘Speed Cool at approximately 9 F (4.9 C) below box temperature. Turn the fuel saver switch to fuel saver position. All heat to cool switch points should be the same, but because of the fuel saver, there should be no High Speed Heat or Cool. Return fuel saver switch and Heat-Cool switch to desired modes of operation. 3. CHECK DEFROST CYCLE. The box temperature must be below 32 F (0 C). Press the ‘manual defrost button. An immediate change in the sound of engine indicates the unit is defrosting. Eventually a rise in temperature, as shown by the thermometer, confirms the defrost cycle. The defrost cycle should end automatically before the thermometer temperature reaches 60 F (15.5 ©). If the temperature continues to rise above 60 F (15 C), check defrost components. Post Trip Inspection Wash unit Check for leaks. Check for lose or missing hardware. Check for physical damage to unit. ELECTRIC MOTOR OPERATION Pre-Start Checks 1. Check for compressor oil leaks, worn or damaged refrigeration lines. 2. Check compressor drive belts and fan drive belt for cracking, scuffing, wear or looseness. Starting the Unit 1. Snap the Diesel-Electrie switch to the “Electric’” position. CAUTION: DO NOT start electric motor until the diesel engine has come to a COMPLETE stop disengaging the clutch from the compressor. 2. Position the fuel saver switch in the maximum capacity position. Do not use the fuel saver posi- tion at any time during electric operation. 3. Plug a power cord into the main power receptacle located on the unit control panel. Make sure that the power supply voltage and phasing is correct for the unit as required by the unit electrical information plate located on the unit. 4, Set the unit thermostat and the Heat-Cool switch to the desired temperature and snap the unit switch to the “On” position. After Start Inspection 1, FAN ROTATION. Check for correct fan rotation (phasing) by placing a small cloth or sheet of paper against the condenser grille. Correct rota- tion will hold the cloth or paper against the grille. Improper rotation will blow the cloth or paper away from the grille. To correct improper rota~ tion, reverse any two power cord leads. (Do not ‘move the ground wire which is normally GREEN.) NOTE: If a single phase unit is running backwards, the motor wiring will have to be reversed. Consult the motor information plate for specific rewiring instructions. A single phase unit will run backwards only if someone has tampered with the motor wiring. Reversing single phase power cord leads WILL NOT reverse the electric motor. 2. CHECK THERMOSTAT OPERATION. With the Heat-Cool switch in the Cool position, turn the thermostat downscale until the unit starts on the cool cycle. Turn the thermostat upscale, The unit should cycle off as the thermostat dial reaches approximately 2 F (1.2 ©) above box temperature. Change the Heat-Cool switch to the Heat posi- tion, Turn the thermostat upscale until the unit starts in the heat cycle (box temperature will start rising). Turn the dial downscale. The unit should cycle off mode at approximately 4 F (2.4 C) above ox temperature. 3. CHECK DEFROST CYCLE. The box temperature must be below 32 F (0 C). Press the manual defrost button. The unit should go into defrost (noted by a temperature rise). The defrost cycle should end automatically before thetemperature indicates 60 F (15.5 ©). UNIT CONTROLS THERMOSTAT. The thermostat controls the unit to maintain the proper temperature. NOTE: Set the thermostat at the desired temperature. Setting the thermostat at a lower temperature will not make the unit cool faster. HEAT-COOL SWITCH. The Heat-Cool switch determines if the unit will utilize a high speed heat or a high speed cool mode in its operation. If the ambient temperature is higher than the desired Toad temperature position, position the heat-cool switch in the cool position. The unit can now go into the high speed cool. If the ambient temperature is below the desired load temperature, use the heat position of the heat-cool, switch. The unit can now run on high speed heat cycle if needed. NOTE: If the fuel saver switeh is in the fuel ‘saver position and the fuel saver light is on, both the high speed heat and the high speed cool modes are disconnected. DIESEL-ELECTRIC SWITCH (KD 50 only), The diesel-electric switch disconnects the engine controls and engine safety devices from the elec- trical system when placed in the “Electric” position. UNIT SWITCH. The On-Off switch energizes the clectrical system of the unit when in the ON posi- tion. In the OFF position, it de-energizes the on- off/low speed solenoids that controls the supply of fuel, to stop the engine and/or the linestarter to stop the electric motor. PRE-HEAT START SWITCH. When pressed to Pre-heat, it energizes the intake heater to aid in starting. When pressed to Start, it energizes both the intake heater and the starting motor. MANUAL DEFROST SWITCH. The Manval Defrost switch is located on the control panel. It is used to turn on the defrost cycle after loading or at any time ice build up is suspected. The unit is also equipped with a defrost actuator that initiates defrost automatically. NOTE: The truck oF trailer temperature must be below 32 F (0 ©) before the uw g0 into a defrost cycle. FUEL SAVER SWITCH. The fuel saver switch activates a circuit that turns on the fuel saver light and disconnects the high speed heat or cool mode of operation. UNIT INSTRUMENTS 1, THERMOMETER. The thermometer indicates the temperature of the air returning to the evaporator. Normally the temperature indicated on the thermometer reflects the temperature of the air around the refrigerate load. Certain condi- tions, however, such as bulkhead airflow in- terference or part of the load blocking the evaporator outlet will cause the thermometer to give an inaccurate reading of air around the pro- duct. 2. FUEL SAVER LIGHT. The fuel saver light in- dicates that the unit is running in the fuel saving. mode and will only go into high speed if the unit is defrosted, 3. HOURMETER. The hourmeter records the total hours that the engine is in operation for proper ‘maintenance intervals. 4, HOURMETER-ELECTRICAL (Optional Equip- ment). Records the hours of unit operation on electric standby power. 5. OIL PRESSURE GAUGE. Engine oil pressure should rise immediately on starting. A low pressure switch will shut off the low oil pressure relay and stop the engine if oil pressure drops below 15-20 psi (103-138 kPa). Normal oil pressure is 35-60 psi (241 to 414 kPa). 6. ENGINE TEMPERATURE GAUGE. Normal engine coolant temperature should be 160 to 180 F (71 to 82 C). During extremely high ambient temperature conditions, the coolant temperature may reach 210 F (99 ©). UNIT SAFETY DEVICES 1. RESET SWITCH. A thermo breaker type reset switch protects the engine against overheating. The reset switch contains a resistor that is attached 0 a cooling system sensor. If the sensor is grounded dus to an overheat condi- tion, the resistor in the reset switch heats up, melting a soldered shaft inside a tube allowing the reset switch to trip. It takes approximately 30 to 70 seconds for the resistor to heat up and trip the switch, shutting the unit off. The two most common causes of reset switch failure are loss of solder and burned out resistors. If some of the solder is lost, the switch may reset, ‘but from then on, a slight jar or small amount of, heat from the resistor may cause the button to pop out.Replacing the resistor is the only repair possible. The reset switch must be replaced if itis defective. ‘Summary of reasons for the reset switch (Red but- ton) being out. a. High water temperature. b. Reset switch becoming defective. The switch may get to a point where it will open due to vibration, . A ground in the No. 20 wires to the sensor is a possible cause, but not very probable. NOTE: A ground or short circuit in the elec- trical system does not cause the reset switch to op out. LOW OIL PRESSURE SWITCH. The low pressure oil switch is installed in the pressurized portion of the lubrication system. If the oil pressure drops below 15-20 psi (103-108 kPa), the switch opens, cutting current to the low oil pressure relay. The low oil pressure relay points conducts current from wire 8 to wire 8C that sup- plies power for the entire unit electrical system. ‘The opening of the low oil pressure switch will therefore completely shut off the unit. During the engine cranking mode, the Start- Preheat switch supplies current to the low oil pressure relay in case the engine oil is too warm to build sufficient pressure to close the low oil pressure switch. When the Preheat-Start switch is, released, control of the relay is returned to the low oil pressure switch. KD units with electric standby systems have a circuit that turns on the low oil pressure relay when the unit is running on standby power. 12 VOLT CIRCUIT BREAKER. The 12 volt cir- ccuit breaker is located behind the control panel face, and it will trip if the 12 Vde control circuit overloads above 20 amps. The circuit breaker will reset automatically if the unit switch is left in the off position for a short period of time. This circuit breaker does not protect the intake heater circuit. 12-VOLT INTAKE HEATER CIRCUIT BREAKER. Located on the frame above the clutch is a 12-volt $0 amp circuit breaker. This cir- cuit breaker protects the intake heater circuit. It will trip if the 12V de intake heater circuit overloads above 50 amps. This circuit breaker will reset automatically if the unit switch is left in the off position for a short period of time. HIGH PRESSURE CUTOUT SWITCH. The high pressure cutout is a pressure switch located in the compressor discharge system. If the discharge pressure becomes excessive, the HPCO switch ‘opens the circuit to the engine solenoids, thereby shutting the engine down. HIGH PRESSURE SAFETY VALVE. The high pressure safety valve is designed to relieve excess pressure within the refrigeration system. The valve isa spring-loaded piston that lifts when refrigerant pressure exceeds spring pressure. The valve will reset when this pressure is sufficiently reduced, ‘The valve could possibly leak refrigerant after it has relieved excess pressure. Tapping the valve lightly may help the valve reseat and seal properly. ‘The valve is non-repairable and requires no ad- justment. If the valve fails to seat properly, release the entire refrigerant charge and unscrew and replace the valve. ‘The high pressure safety valve is located on a high pressure line near the condenser. Its location is, such that when the pressure is expelled from the valve, it would be directed away from anyone ser- vicing the unit.Specifications ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Engine Type of Fuel Oil Capacity Oil Type Engine RPM Fuel Consumption (Average Conditions) Engine Oil Pressure Intake Valve Clearance Exhaust Valve Clearance Valve Setting Temperature Ignition Pump Timing Injection Nozzle Popping Pressure Low Oil Pressure Cutout High Coolant Temperature Cutout Engine Thermostat Cooling System Capacity Radiator Cap REFRIGERATION SPECIFICATIONS Compressor Refrigerant Charge: KD-1 Compressor Oil Charge Compressor Oil Type Throttling Valve Setting Defrost Method — Engine = Standby Heating Method — Engine = Standby High Pressure: Cutout KD-1 Cutin Defrost Termination Thermostat Expansion Valve Maximum Operating Pressure TK235 Diesel No. 2 normal conditions Diesel No. 1 cold weather 8 Quarts (7.57 litre) includes filter API type CD-SD or CD-SE Below 0 F (-18 C) continuous SAE 5W-30 Below 32 F (0 C) SAE 10W: Above 32 F (0 C) SAE 30W 2350 +20 rpm High Speed 1300 +20 rpm Low Speed 2 gph 1.75 litre) 35-60 psi (241-414 kPa) 008 in. (0.20 mm) (008 in. (0.20 mm) Cold Setting 21° BTDC. 285 psi (18755 kPa) + 10% 16 psi (103 kPa) Opens: 205 F (96 C) Closes: 235 F (112.7 +3) 180 to 190 F (82.2 to 87.8 C) 13 pints (6.15 litre) with overflow tank 7-9 psi (48.3-62.1 kPa) p24 8.0 Ib (3.63 kg) R12 66 02 (1.95 litre) Synthetic type 67-404 Petroleum type 64-426 May be Mixed 18 psi (124 kPa) Hot gas Hot gas and electric heater strips Hot gas Hot gas and electric heater strips 300 “33 psi (2068 “3” kPa} 200 psi (1379 kPa) Opens: 45 =3F (7.2 +1.8C) Closes: 32 F (0 Ch 8 lb (3.63 kg) @35 F (1.67 C) box temp with 100 F (37.8 C) ambientElectrical Maintenance BATTERY If the unit is equipped with its own charging system, periodically clean the battery terminals and check the water level. The minimum specific gravity should be 1.235. Add distilled water as necessary to maintain pro- per water level. If the battery was drained enough that a boost was needed, the alternator may not recharge the battery, ‘The alternator will not recharge a dead or extremely low battery because there is not enough current to excite the alternator field. UNIT WIRING Inspect unit wiring and wire harnesses periodically for loose, chaffed or broken wires to protect against unit malfunction due to opens or shorts. THERMOSTAT ‘The thermostat controls the operation of the unit to maintain the preset temperature in the box. ‘The KD is equipped with a2-switch United Electric ther- mostat that is very similar to the single switch thermostat used on most previous Thermo King single cylinder gasoline and diesel powered units. Thermo King has used other two-switch United Electric thermostats on some units such as the RLD, but they utilized a different sensing element and are not inter- changeable with the KD thermostat. The proper KD thermostat has the number 1080A9SGO8 marked on the ‘Thermostat Operation To select the desired box temperature, turn the knurled knob and dial. Turning the knob moves the 2 micro switches farther away, or closer to, the switch actuating plate, The sensing element, through the calibration screw and switch plunger, pushes against the switch plate, activating the switches in a preset sequence. A spring pulls the switch plate back as the sensing element retracts. If the sensing element is sufficiently cooled, it will retract the switch plunger until both of the single pole double throw micro switches are in their NC (nor- mally closed) position. As the bulb warms, it pushes the switch plunger out until the switch plate has finally fore- ced both switches to their NO (normally open) positions. ‘The modes of unit operation (High Speed Cool, Low Speed Cool, Low Speed Heat and High Speed Heat) are determined by the position of these switches and the position of the Heat-Cool Switch. Current Flow with Thermostat Switches No. 1 and 2 in NO Position NOTE: The following description of unit operation assumes the Heat-Cool Switeh is in the cool position unless otherwise noted. 8H feeds 10 through heat-cool switch. 10 feeds 7A through NO position of No. 2 thermostat switch. 7A feeds 7 through heat-cool switch. 7T turns on ther- ‘mostat relay putting unit on High Speed. NC position of, No, 2 switch is grounded through 14 to the heat-cool switch and then to ground. No. I switch NO position is ‘an open circuit. The unit is running on High Speed Cool. ‘The sensing element begins to cool causing the switch plate to pull away from the micro switches. Approx- imately 2 F (1.2 ©) above the thermostat set point, the No. 2 switch switches to the NC position. Current Flow with Switch No. 1 in NO and Switch No. 2 in NC Positions. ‘Thermostat relay is being activated by a holding circuit, 8H feeding 7T through the TRI contacts and a 47 ohm resistor in the thermostat relay. When switch No. 2 goes to NC position, 7A contacts 14 which is grounded. This ‘momentary ground turns off the thermostat relay. The unit is now in Low Speed Cool. As the temperature con- tinues to drop the No. 1 switch will go to the NC posi- tion at thermostat set point. Current Flow with both Switches in the NC Position 8H feeds 144 through NC position of No. I switch. 144, feeds 26 through heat-cool switch. 26 feeds the pilot solenoid that shifts the three-way valve to the heat posi- tion. The unit is now running in the Low Speed Heat mode. There is no High Speed Heat mode when the heat-cool switch is in the cool position. The box temperature will begin to rise, causing the sensing bulb to begin pushing the micro switches back to their NO positions. Switch No. 1 is the first to return to the NO position. This switch has a builtin 4 F (2.4 ©) differen- tial, therefore the box temperature will climb to approx- imately 4 F (2.4 C) above set point before switching to Low Speed Coo! mode. Switch No. 2 has a 7 F (4.5 C) differential, however it overlaps the No. 1 switch by 2 F (1.6 ©) causing it to return to the NO position approx- imately 9F (5.6 C) above set point, The unit will now be running on High Speed Cool.Engine Mode Tomo Drop Low Speed Coo! Swi Open 'SW2 Open sFa70 4Fa20) 1, arnc) sP High Speed Heat SWI Closed SW2 Closed - Teme RISE Heat-Cool Switch in Heat Position Teme Drop - High Speed Coot SW Open SW2 Open sria7c 7 aFa20 2Fiie) se +__ _s sp Low Speed Hest SW! Closed SW2 Closed - TEMP Ise Heat-Cool Switch in Cool Position Electric Mode 7FG9C) ariel Heat-Cool Switch in Cool Position Fazo. Heat-Cool Switch in Heat PositionELECTRICAL SYSTEM Control System Voltage Circuit Breaker Rating Battery Charging System (optional) Voltage Regulator Setting NOTE: Disconnect Components from Circuit to Check Resistance Intake Heater On-Oft/Low Speed Solenoid High Speed Solenoid Pilot Solenoid Starter Motor Damper Solenoid Electric Motor RPM Full Load Amps Phase Locked Rotor Amps Electric Heater Strips Number Watts (each) Current Draw (Total) 230V ‘460V DC Circuit Breaker Belt Tension (using tool 204-427) Engine/Compressor Compressor/Jackshaft (motor) Compressor/Fans Water Pump/ Alternator 3888 12Vde 50 amps 12V 37 amp alternator 13.8V Current draw at Resistance in ohms 125 Vde 40 03 1.42 88 1.42. 88 657 19 90-105 amps 5.68 22 5 hp, 230/460, 60 Hz 4.2 hp, 200/380 50 Hz 1720 1420 14.4/7.2 12.4/7.2 3 3 43.3 388 3 780 3.2 amp 1.6 amp 20 ampPeriodic Service Guide FIRST 100 HOUR INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE. AFTER FIRST 100 hours of operation: Retorque head bolts, Check valve clearances Check belt tension Tighten unit mounting bolts Drain engine oil Change oil fiter Check coolant level Check refrigerant level Check refrigerant oil level wecccccce Service Items, Indicated Hours ‘After Each Cycle Weekly) "500 7000 Hours. Yearly ELECTRICAL Check Battery Terminals and Water Level Wf equipped) Check Wire Hamess ‘Check Thermostat and Thermometer Calibration ‘Check Thermostat for Gycing elelele Check Defrost Operation Check Fan Defrost Actuator ENGINE ‘Drain Water om Fuel Tank and Fiters Change Fuel Filters Tnspect Belts ‘Check Belt Tensions ‘Check Radiator Coolant Level ‘Check and Flush Cooling System Agjust Engine Valve Clearance Change Engine OW thot! Change Oil Fiter Clean and Service Air Cleaner 1100 hrs under dusty cond) ‘Agjusi Engine Speeds end Lubricate Linkage Clean Fuel Prefiter Check Oil Level (Clutch, ingpect and lubricate REFRIGERATION Check Refrigerant Charge (sight glass) (Change Refrigerant Fier Drier Clean Datrost Drains ‘Check and Clean Evaporator @ Condenser Calls [tec barpe Boor Csing [STRUCTURAL Tighten Unit and Engine Mounting Bolts Check Jackshaft Lube Level [Model 30 ofl] Check for Oil, Fuel, Coolant and Refrigerant Leaks Check Compressor Oi Level Check Fuel Tank Hardware and Tighten Mounting BoltsHeat Cycle When the heat-cool switch is in the heat position, the thermostat works basically the same except everything is reversed. By moving the heat-cool switch position, No. 2 switch now feeds 26 and the pilot solenoid and No. 1 switch controls the thermostat relay and high speed. Low box temperatures cause the sensing element to con- tract allowing both micro switches to go to their NC positions which now cause the unit to run on High ‘Speed Heat. As the box temperature rises, the sensing bulb expands pushing the No. 1 switch to its NO posi tion, causing the unit to run on Low Speed Heat and then finally forcing No. 2 switch to its NO position, resulting in Low Speed Cool. ‘Thermostat Calibration 1. Use an accurate test instrument like the Simpson temperature gauge (203-135). The Simpson gauge should be periodically checked in a 32 F (0 ©) ice water bath to verify its accuracy. 2. Attach the sensing bulb of the test instrument near the control bulb. 3. Place the heat-cool switch in the cool position and the fuel saver switch in the maximum capacity position. 4, Attach a 12 volt test light or a de voltmeter to the pilot solenoid circuit wire No. 26 to verify exactly when the unit shifts from Low Speed Cool to Low Speed Heat. Start the unit 6. Determine if the unit has all 3 modes of operation by turning the dial down to at least 20 F (11 © ‘below box temperature. The unit should be runn- ing on High Speed Cool. Slowly rotate the dial upscale. At approximately 2 F (1.1 C) below box temperature, the unit should cycle to Low Speed Cool. Continue upscale. At set point, the unit should eycle to Low Speed Heat, indicated by the test light or voltmeter. If there is no Low Speed Cool, the unit shifts from High Cool to Low Heat, back the number two-switch adjustment screw out about a quarter of a turn, This adjustment is very sensitive, a quarter of a turn may even eliminate High Speed Cool completely even at a -20 F (-18 ©) set point. The screw will be readjusted after the thermostat calibration is completed. If ther is still no Low Speed Cool, repair or replace the ther- mostat. If there is no High Speed Cool, check the No. 2 switch. It should be in the NO (normally ‘open) position. If it isn't, slowly turn the No. 2 switch adjustment screw in until the switch goes to the NO position. With the dial set 20 F (11.1 ©) ‘below box temperature, wite 10 to the No. 2 switch should have 12V de entering the switch, and wire 7A should have 12V de leaving the switch 7. If all modes of operation are present, continue with the calibration by setting the thermostat to 32 F (0 C) and set the unit cycle from coo! to heat 2 ‘or 3 times to stabilize the box temperature. Note ‘on the Simpson test thermometer the temperature at which the unit shifts from Low Speed Cool to Low Speed Heat. This should be within 1 F (0.6 C) of 32 F (0 ©) If not, the thermostat calibration screw will have to be adjusted. 8. If the unit shifts to heat at a temperature higher than the thermostat setting, as indicated by the ‘Simpson test thermometer, turn calibrating screw OUT; or if the unit shifts at a temperature lower than the setting, as indicated by the Simpson test, thermometer, turn the adjustment screw IN. CAUTION: Use 2 wrenches when adjusting the calibration serew to prevent damaging the power element. 9. Recheck the calibration after adjustment. 10. Readjust the No. 2 switch (High Speed Coo). Turn the dial downscale until the unit runs on High Speed. Slowly turn the dial upwards until it is approximately 2 F (1.1 C) below the box temperature as indicated by the Simpson test ther- mometer. The unit should shift from High Speed Cool to Low Speed Cool. Ifthe unit shifts to Low Speed Cool before you reach 2 F (1.1 ©) below ‘box temperature, turn adjusting serew IN. If the unit shifts to Low Speed Cool after you reach 2 F (1.1 © below box temperature, turn adjusting serew OUT. 11. If the thermostat is calibrated correctly and the Low Speed Cool duration is set properly, the swit- ches will be set correctly for the heat cycle and no further adjustment of the thermostat will be necessary. CHARGING SYSTEM ‘The KD unit may be equipped with an alternator and regulator to the battery charge if the unit has its own batteries or to maintain the truck battery during long periods of unit operation while the truck is not run- ning. The only maintenance is periodic inspection and retensioning of the drive belt. The alternator system ‘output can be checked by using a voltmeter to check the voltage at the output terminal at the back of the alter- nator. The normal voltage output with a fully charged battery is 14V de. For further information on the charg- ing system, see Electrical Systems Maintenance Manual, TK6683,INTAKE HEATER ‘An electric intake heater warms the intake air for easier cold weather starting. The Preheat-Start switch in the Preheat or the Start position energizes the heater. If the engine is difficult to start when cold, check the preheater circuit. A 12V de circuit breaker protects the imake heater circuit, and it will tip if the circuit overloads above 50 amps. The circuit breaker will reset automatically if the unit switch is left in the off position for a short period of time. ‘The easiest way to check the intake heater is to feel the heater while holding the Preheat switch on. The heater itself becomes very hot in a short period of time, so use caution when checking the heater with bare fingers. If the heater is not getting warm, check the voltage at the H wire of the circuit breaker. If there is no voltage there, replace or repair the Preheat-Start switch. If there i voltage at the H wire, check for voltage farther down the line at the intake heater. If there is no voltage pre- sent, replace the circuit breaker. If there is voltage pre- sent at the intake heater but the heater is not getting ‘warm, replace the heater. A confirming test would be to check the resistance of the intake heater with an ohm- meter, DEFROST OPERATION Diesel Operation ‘The defrost cycle may be initiated by the manual defrost switch or the fan actuator switch. The initiation of the defrost cycle energizes the defrost relay, the pilot solenoid and the defrost damper solenoid. The pilot solenoid allows the 3-way valve to shift and divert heated refrigerant vapor to flow into the evaporator coil, melting ice. The damper solenoid closes the damper in the discharge opening of the evaporator housing. This prevents air from passing over the coil, keeping the heat within the evaporator. ‘A. defrost termination thermostat de-energizes the defrost relay when the evaporator temperature rises above a pre-determined point. The pilot solenoid and damper solenoid are also de-energized, returning the 3.way valve to the control of the unit thermostat and ‘opening the defrost damper. To check the defrost cycle, run the unit on cooling and adjust the thermostat to drop the evaporator coil temperature below 35 F (1.6 C), Press the manual defrost switch. The unit should shift from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle. If the unit continues on cooling, double check the evaporator coil temperature and refer to testing the detrost system. 2 Electric Operation ‘The defrost cycle on electric standby operation is very similar to defrost during diesel operation. The only dif- ference is the activation of the electric heater strips for increased defrosting capabilities TESTING THE DEFROST SYSTEM Defrost problems fall into 2 basic categories; 1, the unit will not defrost, and 2, the unit will not come out of defrost. Unit will not defrost Make sure the box temperature is actually below 35 F (1.6 ©) by the use of a test thermometer. 2. Place a jumper wire from ground to the No. 12 wire at the evaporator plug. Press the manual but- ton. If the unit goes into defrost, the defrost ther- ‘mostat is not closing or the No. 12 wire is open cir- cuit. Check continuity of the No. 12 wire. If itis continuous, replace the defrost thermostat. NOTE: Eliminate the possibility of a stuck 3-way valve or faulty pilot solenoid by checking the 3-way valve system as described in TKS984, Diagnosing the Thermo King Refrigeration System is Easy. CAUTION: Do not forget to remove the jumper 3. If the unit still will not defrost, place a jumper wire from No. 11 wire to No. 12 wire at the manual defrost button. If the unit goes into defrost, the manual button is defective and should be replaced. 4, If there is still no defrost, place a jumper wire from ground to the No. 11 wire at the defrost relay. The unit should go immediately into defrost. If not, replace the defrost relay. If tests 1 through 4 do not solve the defrost problem, check the No. 8 wire going to the defrost relay. This wire should have 12 Vde at the relay. A lack of voltage at this point indicates an open in the No. 8 circuit, If the relay is working, test the pilot solenoid and the damper door solenoid. Unit will not come out of Defrost 1, Make sure that the evaporator temperature is really above 60 F (15.5 C) by use of a test ther- mometer. The condenser seal in the three-way valve or the condenser check valve may be leaking, or the unit may be low on refrigerant if the temperature in the evaporator will not climb high enough to terminate the defrost circuit2. While the unit is running in defrost, disconnect the No. 12 wire at the plug going back to the ora If the unit comes out of defrost, the defrost thermostat is stuck closed. Repiace it 3. ff the unit i sill in defrost, use an ohmmeter to test No, 12 wire for a ground. If No. 12 is ground- ed, find the grounded portion and repair it if the No. 12 circuit is not grounded, repiace the defrost relay. ‘Check the No. 11 circuit that it is not grounded. Testing the Pilot Solenoid 1, Turn the unit switch on. 2. Place a jumper wire with an ammeter in circuit from No. 26 to No. 8H wire at the defrost relay. ‘The pilot solenoid and the heater contactor should snergize. If the solenoid does not energize, check No. 26 sire for opens or replace the solenoid coil lf the solenoid and heater contactor are energized and the current draw is greater than 2 ampere, there isa short in either the No. 26 wire, the coil of the valve, or the heater contactor. Check each component. Testing the Damper Solenoid The damper sotenoid operates the defrost damzer to stop evaporator air flow during unit ¢: Maintenance on the damper solenoid consists of replac- ing the solenoid. To test the damper solenoid: 1. Turn unit switch on. 2. Place a jumper wire with an ammeter in circuit between No. 29 and No. 8 terminals at the defrost relay. The damper solenoid should be energized and the defrost damper should close. If the defrost damper does not close, the damper solenoid is not being energized. Check the No. 29 wire for opens ‘or replace the solenoid. If the damper solenoid is energized and the current draw is greater than 6 amperes, there is @ short in the No. 29 wire circuit or the solenoid. NOTE: Under some conditions, the No. 29 cir- ‘cuit is connected to the high speed solenoid circuit, causing the unit to go into high speed whenever the unit goes into defrost. When testing the damper solenoid, the ammeter may indicate 6.25 to 7.25 amps. When energizing the damper solenoid, watch the high speed solenoid. If the igh speed solenoid energizes, the unit has high speed defrost and the higher amperage draw is vB DEFROST COMPONENTS Fan Actuated Defrost Switch ‘The KD- uses a fan actuated defrost switch to initiate the defrost cycle when ice builds up on the evaporator coil. ‘The fan actuated defrost mechanism is enclosed in an aluminum box that is mounted on the evaporator fan shroud, There are 4 small holes drilled through the shroud allowing air to blow into the fan making it spin. After approximately 81,000 revolutions, the fan will trip the electrical switch causing the unit to go to defrost. ‘As long as the coil is clear of ice, the fan side pressure ‘will be low and litle air will be blown back at the fan ac- tuator; therefore, the unit will spend a considerable period between defrost cycles. As the coil frosts over, the pressure on the fan side of the evaporator will build, forcing a greater amount of air back through the fan actuator causing the unit to go into defrost more fre- quently, ‘There is no maintenance involved with the fan actuator. ‘There is a knob on the box that can be turned to check ‘out the actuator operation. To check the actuator, disconnect the two wires con- nected to it and then connect an ohmmeter across the two terminals. Turn the knob until a click is heard. The ‘ohmmeter should now show continuity. Manual Defrost Switch ‘The manual defrost switch located on the control panel is used to manually initiate the defrost cycle. Defrost Termination Thermostat ‘The defrost termination thermostat is mounted in the evaporator and controls the defrost cycle in response to the evaporator coil temperature. The switch is closed if the evaporator coil temperature is lower than 32 F (0C), completing the defrost circuit to ground and preparing the electrical system for the defrost cycle. When the unit does shift into a defrost cycle initiated by the fan ac- tuator or manual defrost switch, the defrost thermostat opens and terminates the defrost cycle when the evaporator coil temperature rises to 42 to 60 F (5.6 to 15.5 C). Defrost Relay ‘The defrost holding relay controls the operation of the unit on the defrost cycle. When the fan actuator switch, for the manual defrost switch completes the circuitthrough the defrost thermostat to ground, the defrost relay closes to complete the circuit to the pilot solenoid ‘and the damper solenoid. Damper Solenoid The damper solenoid operates the defrost damper to stop evaporator air flow during unit defrost. Maintenance on the damper solenoid consists of replac- ing the solenoid. Damper Blade ‘The defrost damper blade stops the evaporator airflow uring unit defrost. Maintenance on the damper blade involves replacing worn bearings and adjusting the front panel so the blade closes properly. Pilot Solenoid ‘The pilot solenoid is an electrical valve that controls the ‘operation of the 3-way valve in the refrigeration system. When the pilot solenoid coil is energized, it lifts the valve and allows the 3-way valve to shift, placing the unit on either heating or defrosting. Maintenance con- sists of replacing the coil if an open or short circuit ‘occurs. High Speed Start Relay ‘The high speed start relay holds the engine in high speed when engaging the start position of the PRE- HEAT—START switch. Maintenance consists of replacing the relay. 4Engine Maintenance ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM ‘The TK235 diesel engine has a pressure lubrication system. Oil is circulated by a trochoid type oil pump driven by the crankshaft timing gear and has several times the capacity required by the engine, the excess oil returning to the crankcase. Oil is picked up through a suction tube with a screened inlet. Oil to the rocker arm shaft flows through a tube on the outside of the engine and into the head through a restrictor fitting, Oil pressure is affected by oil temperature, viscosity and engine speed. Subnormal oil pressures usually may be traced to lack of oil, faulty relief valve or worn bearings The use of improper viscosity oil in cold weather will produce low oil pressure shutdowns. ‘Low Oil Pressure Protection ‘The TK235 engine is protected by an instantaneous low oil pressure shut down system. A low oil pressure switch located in the oil supply system closes any time oil pressure is above 15 psi (103.4 kPa), allowing current to flow to the low oil pressure relay. The relay controls electrical power to the rest of the unit, therefore if the oil pressure drops below 15 psi (103.4 kPa), the unit will shut off instantly. The low oil pressure relay can also be activated by the Preheat-Start switch or the Diesel- Electric switch. The circuit from the Preheat-Start switch overrides the low oil pressure switch so the unit can be cranked when hot engine oil may prevent a buildup of pressure until the unit is running. The Diesel- Electric switch overrides the switch to enable the unit to have control power during electric standby when the diesel engine is not running and developing oil pressure. Engine Oil Change ‘The engine oil should be changed every S00 hours or 3 months which ever occurs first. Drain the oil only when the engine is hot to ensure that all the oil drains out. When changing oil, try to make sure that the truck or trailer is not tipped away from the direction that the oil js supposed to flow from the oil pan. It is important to get as much of the residual oil out as possible because most of the dirt particles are in the last few quarts of to drain out. Refill the pan with 8 quarts (7.57 liter) and check the dipstick level. Run the unit, and then recheck the oil level. Add as necessary to reach the full mark. See specifications page for correct type of oil. il Filter Change The oil filter should be changed along with the engine oil, Spin-on Filter 5 Remove filter. 2. Apply oil to rubber ring of new filter and install filter. 3. Tighten filter until rubber ring makes contact, then tighten 1/2 turn more. AIR CLEANER ‘The air cleaner removes abrasive material from the air centering the engine. The air cleaner must be kept clean and open so that the air can pass freely. If the oil has absorbed the maximum amount of dirt, it allows the dirt to enter into the engine. Remove the oil cup, wash thoroughly and dry every 500 operating hours. Refill using the same weight oil used in the engine crankcase. Inspect the cleaner body and wash in solvent when it ‘becomes dirty. CRANKCASE BREATHER ‘The crankcase breather system ducts gases formed in the crankcase directly to the intake elbow. Harmful vapors that would otherwise collect in the crankcase and contaminate the oil, or escape to the outside, are now drawn back into the engine and burned. Once yearly, the breather hose should be inspected to make sure itis not plugged. Breather Hose Crankcase Breather BELT TENSIONS Compressor Drive Belt Slide the engine away from the compressor to tighten this belt. Obtain a reading of 60 on TK gauge 204-427 NOTE: Do not overtighten the compressor drive belt. Belt tension should allow belt to be deflected 1/2 inch atChecking Belt Tension center of span without any engine movement. Over ten- sioned belts cause severe overload on the clutch and clutch bearings. Use only approved Thermo King Ser- vice Parts replacement belts. They are specially designed for the KD units. Compressor! Jackshaft (Motor) Belt Slide the jackshaft or electric motor away from the com- pressor to tighten this belt. Obtain a reading of 60 to 70 ‘on TK gauge 204-427. Water Pump Belt Adjust tension by moving alternator or idler pulley in adjusting arm slot until a reading of 17 to 20 is obtained on TK gauge 204-427. Compressor/Evaporator Fan ‘Moving the idler pulley upward, tighten the belt enough to obtain a reading of 30 to 40 on the longest span using ‘TK gauge 204-427. CLUTCH (Clutch Maintenance ‘The clutch should be inspected every 5000 hours o year- ly whichever occurs first. Remove the clutch, clean the shoes and drum, regrease or replace the bearings if they are worn. Inspect anchor pins and springs for wear and replace if necessary Clutch Removal 1. Remove belt, 2. Using aS mm allen wrench, remove the six allen head metric screws mounting the clutch and flywheel hub assembly to the flywheel. Remove the clutch and flywheel hub assembly from the unit, and use the clutch mounting bolt and washer to remove the clutch from the hub. Chstch Disassembly 1. Remove both bearing retaining rings. 2. Support the drum portion and press the hub out of the bearing using a 2 in, (50 mm) O.D. arbor. 3. Turn the drum over and press out the bearing, Removing Screws and Washers 4, Remove the retaining screws and washers from the shoes. Romoving Shoes 5. To remove the shoes from the rotor, drill out the rubber bushing mounting the shoe. Removing Bushing Sleeve 66. Ifa bushing sleeve remains on the internal drive pin, use a cold chisel, anvil and hammer to expand the sleeve for removal. 7. Inspect clutch drum and hub assembly. Replace if drum and hub are excessively worn, Clutch Assembly 1. Position hub with bearing surface up. 2. Insert plastic rods inside springs. Install spring and plastic rod with hole of rod in- serted over pin on end of shoe opposite the drive pin, Mount both springs outboard of the drive pin plate. 4, Using 1/4-20 screws and large washers, pull the shoes onto the internally threaded drive pins (the rubber bushing sleeves are press fit). 5. Press new bearing into pulley using a 3-7/16 in, (87.3 mm) arbor to assure the bearing is pressed on the outer race only. Seat bearing in pulley and install new retaining ring. 6. Support bearing center race on a 2-3/16 in. (55.6 mm) LD. sleeve, and press hub into bearing until seated, Install new retaining ring. Clutch Installation 1. Tighten mounting bolt and washer to secure clutch to flywheel hub. Torque mounting bolt to 35-40 ft Ib (47-54 N-m). 2. Position clutch and flywheel hub assembly on the flywheel, 3. Tighten the 6 allen head metric screws using a metric allen wrench size $ mm to secure the clutch hub to the flywheel 4, Reinstall belt ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM ‘The engine employs a closed, circulating type, pressuriz- ed cooling system. Correct engine temperatures are controlled and maintained by a radiator, fan and thermostat. The coolant is circulated through the system by a belt driven centrifugal pump. The pump draws the coolant from the side of the radiator (large header), cir- culates it through the cylinder block and head, then back to the radiator. A thermostat mounted in the water outlet line from the cylinder head to the radiator automatically maintains coolant temperature within the specified temperature range. Always use a 50/50 ethylene glycol/water solution when adding or refilling the cooling system. Even in summer the accumulator tank can get cold enough to freeze the water in the heat exchange accumulator water jacket u To protect the radiator from mineral deposits, always use soft water. ‘As the coolant solution ages, acid caused by: heat, air ‘and chemical reaction with materials in the system is formed within the solution. This acid, if not neutralized or flushed from the system, will cause corrosion of cool- ing system components and result in poor heat transfer, water pump failures, leaks and possibly more severe problems. The best way to prevent cooling system problems is to drain and flush the system periodically. The frequency Of flushing depends on the type of usage a unit receives. If the unit is used year around, the system should be flushed twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall. The system holds approximately 13 pints (6.14 litre) of coolant, “keeping the expense of a twice a year flushing program relatively low. If the unit is used infre- quently during the winter season, draining, flushing and refilling the system can be done once a year. Flushing Cooling System The best way to prevent cooling system problems is to once a year: 1. Completely drain the cooling system and flush with water until drained liquid is nearly colorless. Inspect all hoses for deterioration and hose clamp tightness. Replace if necessary. 3. Loosen water pump belt. Check water pump bear- ing for looseness. 4, Inspect radiator cap. Replace if gasket shows any signs of deterioration. 5. Refill cooling system with fresh anti-freeze solu- tion. NOTE: Coolant solution that is dark and contains scale particles indicates a badly corroded system and the solution, if tested, will have a pH reading lower (acidic) than the recommended 8.0 to 9.5. An alkaline radiator ‘lush should be used to remove as much scale as possible and neutralize any acid that remains trapped in the system before refilling with new coolant. Bleeding Cooling System When refilling the KD cooling system, it is very impor- tant to bleed out any air that may be trapped in the radiator or lines. 1, Remove 5/8 in. engine coolant hose (engine to accumulator tank) from engine coolant outlet fit- ting to allow entrapped air out through orifice in fitting. Bandwrap or hold disconnected hose above radiator fill neck to prevent coolant leakage dur- ing fill process. Position 2 small container under coolant outletFlow Restriction Orifice Fitting Overflow Tank Radiator Cap Condenser/ Radiator Coil a ‘Accumulator Tank Engine Cooling System fitting to catch coolant which may leak out during 6. _Injection nozzles. es ‘Two 7 psi (43.3 kPa) electric fuel pumps pull fuel from 4, Fill the radiator with a $0-S0 mixture of perma- the fuel tank through a prefilter, then pushes it to the nent anti-freeze and water. fuel filters, and then to the injection pump. The two electric pumps are connected in series with their ‘minimum. outlet pressure 9 psi (62 kPa) (use only prefilter designed for diesel fuel). After filling the radiator, reconnect engine coolant to coolant outlet fitting on engine. 6. Run unit to check for overheating and coolant ive ‘The injection pump plungers are activated by an exten- sion on the engine camshaft. The governor sleeve and CAUTION: Do not try to check radiator level weight assembly is mounted on the end of the while engine is hot. crankshaft with governor's speed requirements being - relayed to the injection pump through a linkage ar- Engine Thermostat rangement located in the front timing cover. The injec- tion pump raises the pressure of the fuel and meters the correct amount of fuel to the nozzle at the correct time. ‘The increased fuel pressure will lift the spring loaded nozzle to admit fuel into the combustion chamber. For the best engine operation, use a 180 F (82 C) ther- ‘mostat year around, ENGINE FUEL SYSTEM ‘The fuel system is relatively trouble free and if properly ‘The fuel system used on the Thermo King TK235 diesel Maintained will usually not require major service repairs is manufactured by Yanmar. It isa high pressure system _between engine overhauls. used in conjunction with a prechamber or swirl The most common cause of fuel system problems is con- chamber. tamination. It cannot be stressed enough that she fuel must be clean, fuel tanks must be free from con- eee aaa taminants, the fuel filter must be changed regula-ly, and the shortest time possible, 1. Fuel tank (may be the truck fuel tank). at any time that the fuel system is opened up, take all 2 Prefiter. possible precautions to Keep dirt from entering the refiker fystem, This means all fuel lines should be capped when 3. Electric fuel pump. open. ‘The work should be done in a relatively clean 4. Poe! fier area, if possible, and the work should be completed in 5. Injection pump. 8Fuel Filter Electric Fuel Pump Return to Fuel Tank 3/81.D. Hose Injection Pump Engine Fuel System We recommend that any major injection pump or noz- ale repairs be done by a quality diesel injection service specialty shop. The investment in equipment and les to service these components is quite high, therefore, this equipment is not found in most repair shops. The following procedures can be done under field con- ditions: 1. Bleeding fuel system free of ai 2. Maintenance involving the fuel tank and filter system. Speed and governor adjustments, 4, Electric transfer pump replacement or repair (7 psi [48.3 kPa] pump with diesel filter), 5. Injection line replacement. 6. Pump timing. 7. Nozzle spray pattern testing and adjustment. 8. Minor rebuilding of nozzles. Bleeding the Fuel System If the engine runs out of fuel or repairs are made to the fuel system, or air gets into the system for any other reason, the fuel system will have to have the air bled out. NOTE: BE SURE to keep the fuel tank vent open. If the vent becomes clogged, a partial vacuum develops in the tank, and this increases the tendency for to enter the system. Proceed as follows: Loosen the air bleed fitting on the fuel filter bracket, ‘The electric fuel pumps do not energize when the on-off switch is turned on. They receive current from the 8D circuit after the unit is running and. hhas built enough oil pressure to engage the low oil pressure relay. The pumps can however be energized by holding the Preheat-Start switch in the Preheat position. The pumps are connected to the Preheat-Start switch to ensure fuel is being Pumped to the engine before and during start up. This circuit can be utilized to turn on the pumps to bleed the fuel system. Run the pumps until a clear flow of fuel is noted at the air bleed screw. Tighten, the screw,a clear flow of fuel is noted. 3. Loosen the injection nozzle box nuts at the injec- tion nozzles. 4, Crank the engine until fuel appears at the nozzles. Tighten the injection nozzle box nuts and start the engine, NOTE: Fuel will not appear at the nozzles by merely running the electric pumps. The engine must be cranked. Water in the System Water run through the system may damage the injection pump, nozzles or pre-chambers. This damage will subsequently cause more expensive damage to the engine. A large accumulation of water in the bottom of the fuel tank will stop a diesel engine, the same as air. Water should be drained off periodically to avoid breakdowns. This should be done after the tank has set idle for an hour. DO NOT steam clean fuel tank caps. Cleaning Prefilter Screen KD units are equipped with a diesel fuel prefilter. The prefilter is not located on the unit but is installed on the truck frame somewhere near the fuel tank. The prefilter should be checked weekly for contaminants or water. To clean, remove the glass and screen and blow clean with compressed air. If the screen becomes badly plugg- ed, it should be replaced with a screen designed for diesel fuel. Fuel Filter Replacement 1. Remove fuel filter and discard. 2. Lubricate rubber ring of new filters with fuel Install the filter and tighten until the filters stight- ly toose (rubber ring not making contact) 4. Bleed the air from the filter by operating the elec- tric pump until fuel bubbles appear at the top of the filter, 5. Tighten the filter until the rubber ring makes con- tact, then tighten 1/2 turn more. INJECTION PUMP AND GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENTS ‘When the diesel en to maintain the correct, engine speeds, check the following before adjusting the speed: 1. Check the prefilter screen. Recheck the speed. 2. Bleed air out of the fuel system. Recheck the speed. 3. Bleed air out of the nozzles. Recheck the speed. 4, Operation of electric transfer pump. n Make the engine speed adjustments with the engine fully warmed up. The TK235 engine has 2 solenoids mounted on one bracket attached to the exhaust manifold side of the engine. The upper solenoid controls high speed. The lower solenoid is a combination on-off/low speed solenoid. The speed of the engine should be checked with a hand tachometer, TK Part 204-220, on the crankshaft pulley bolt or by the use of a stroboscope tachometer, TK Part 204-436 CAUTION: Do not try to adjust the fuel limit serew ‘on the front of the timing cover. It does not control any phase of engine speed, and itis not a sensitivity screw. It is preset and should not be adjusted. IDLE STOP AND THROTTLE SOLENOID ADJUSTMENTS High Speed Adjustments — Engine Not Running 1. Check the distance from center of hole in yoke to centerline of bend in rod. It should be approx- ately 4.0 in (101 mm). This figure is just a rough setting to bring the high speed linkage close to the final adjustment in the event a solenoid or some other part of the linkage is replaced. Low Speed Adjustment — Engine Not Running 1. Check the distance from the center of the hole in the yoke to the centerline bend in rod. It should be approximately 2.8 in, (71 mm). This figure is just a rough setting to bring the low speed linkage close to the final adjustment in the event a solenoid or some other part of the linkage is replaced. igh Speed Solenld sign Sood \ “, sr \ Al Low Speed Adjustment (On-Off /Low Speed Solenoid Low Speed Adjustment — Engine Running 1, Start the unit, Position the fuelsaver switch in the fuel saver position to eliminate high speed. All low speed control adjustments should be made withthe yoke after the flex nut has been loosened, Move the yoke to set low speed at 1300 +20 rpm. Rotate yoke until yoke pin is in a horizontal posi- tion to avoid linkage binding. Tighten flex nut when the proper speed is obtained. High Speed Adjustment — Engine Running 1, Turn fuelsaver switch (0 the maximum capacity position to reactivate high speed. Adjust high speed linkage by rotating the yoke. Set engine speed at 2350 +20 rpm. Rotate yoke until yoke pin is in a horizontal position to avoid linkage bin- ding. Tighten flex nut against yoke. 2. Check operation of the engine between high and low speeds by use of the thermostat. Check engine shut down from high speed and low speed by using the on-off switch. 4. Check for any tendency for the linkage to bind. If necessary, bend the linkage slightly to eliminate any binding problems. Recheck the speeds if any linkage is bent. INJECTION PUMP REMOVAL, REINSTALLATION AND TIMING Injection Pump Removal 1, Remove four nuts holding pump to timing cover and the fuel supply line. 2. Remove inspection plate on the side of the timing 3. Center the rack in the pump body, then remove injection pump from timing cover. The timing shim will usually stay attached to the pump. CAUTION: If the rack is not positioned correct- ly, the pump will not come out of the timing cover. 4, Remove the injection pump from the cover. The timing shim usually will stay attached to the pump. a Injection Pump Reinstallation 1. Replace the shim gasket on the injection pump if it has been damaged during pump removal. New shims are supplied in sets. Select the same thickness shim that was removed from the pump. NOTE: Do not put gasket sealer on the shim or Pump until the injection timing of the pump has been checked. The shim may have to be replaced with one of a different thickness. 2. Center the rack in the pump body and insert the pump in the timing gear cover. The rack pin must. be indexed with the governor arm as the pump is, being inserted. Install the washers and nuts. Torque the nuts to 18, to 20 ft Ib (24 10 27 N-m). 4, Install the fuel line on the pump. Timing the Injection Pump to the Engine ‘There are 2 different types of timing procedures used on the TK235 engine. One procedure involves checking to make sure that both cylinders are timed correctly to cach other, and the second procedure time the injection pump correctly to the engine. If the cylinders are not timed correctly to each other, it is of no value to time the injection pump to the engine because one of the two cylinders would be out of time. The individual plungers in the injection pump are timed to each other by the use of spacers in the pump plunger base. Itis rare that an in- jection pump would change individual cylinder timing, tunless it had been through some type of repair process, but if all other possible problems with a rough running engine have been checked, and especially if the engine's injection pump has been replaced or repaired recently, it may be beneficial to check individual cylinder timing. Because the possibility of incorrect individual cylinder imi ’nimal, the procedure for timing the pump to the engine will be covered first. The procedure for individual cylinder timing is very similar to timing the injection pump so it will be covered last. NOTE: The cylinders on the engine are numbered from the flywheel end to the water pump end. The number 1 cylinder is next to the flywheel. The number 2 cylinder is next to the water pump. The timing marks on the flywheel are matched to this sytem. 1, Rotate the engine in the direction of rotation (Clockwise as viewed from the water pump end) until the number 1 cylinder (closest to flywheel) is at approximately top dead center of the compres- sion stroke. The valve cover should be removed to identify the compression stroke. Both valves of the number 1 cylinder will be loose. Check the position of the timing marks in relation to the illustration.NOTE: Both cylinders have timing marks stamped on the flywheel 180° apart. Top dead ‘center marks are identified by the number of the cylinder stamped next to them. Injection timing marks are unmarked. The timing marks are most easily viewed through the curbside door by line of sight under the muffler. 2. Remove the high pressure line from the number 1 injector on the injection pump. Remove the delivery valve holder, delivery valve and spring. Timing Marks Care must be taken to prevent dirt from entering the fuel injection system. Replace the delivery valve holder. Install a drip tube on the nozzle holder. 4. Activate the run solenoid by turning the unit switch on, Make sure the Diesel-Electric switch is in the Diesel position. Use a jumper wire to activate the electric fuel pump. Jumper number 2 wire to 8F wire at the switch panel. CAUTION: Loosen the box nut on the high pressure line of the number 2 cylinder to prevent any possibility of the engine firing. 5. The engine should be close to the top dead center position with the plunger port in the pump closed. No fuel should flow from the drip tube 6. Turn the engine backwards past the injection tim- ing mark until fuel flows from the drip tube. 7. Slowly rotate the engine in the direction of rota- na tion while watching the drip tube. When the fuel flow slows to approximately one drip every 10 to 15 seconds, check the timing marks, They should be lined up. 8. If the timing marks did not line up, @ shim or shims will have to be added or subtracted from the injection pump. Adding shims will retard the in- jection timing, subtracting shims will advance the timing. Increasing or decreasing shim thickness by 004 in, (0.1 mm) will change the timing by 1°. 9, After shims have been added or subtracted, recheck the timing. When the injection pump has been correctly timed, to the engine, remove the pump and put a light coat of silicone gasket sealer on the shim pack and, the pump. 10. Reinstall the pump and torque the nuts to 18 to 20 AU/Ib (24 to 22 N-m), Reinstall delivery valve and spring. Torque delivery valve holder to 30 f1/Ib (40.7 Nem), Reinstall high pressure lines, bleed air from nozzles, and test run engine. ‘Timing Individual Cylinder Injection This procedure should be used when a poor running engine has had all possible problems checked but con- tinues to run badly. If the injection pump has been repaired or replaced, the chance of individual cylinder timing problems have a greater possibility of occurring. To check individual cylinder timing follow the pump timing procedure, but instead of changing shims to ad- just pump timing if it is incorrect, check the timing of number 2 injector to the engine after checking number 1. Both cylinders should time on their respective flywheel timing marks. If the injection pump plungers are not correctly timed to each other, the pump must be removed and sent to @ diesel injection equipment repair shop for calibration,Body Jee Plunger Cup Valve Spring —entn Cover ma Gasket Wee? Electric Fuel Pump ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP. Operation ‘The electric fuel pump must be mounted next to the fuel tank. This pump is designed to push fuel rather than pull. Make sure the pump case completes a good ground with the battery. The pump will not operate at less than 9 Vde. The pump is self priming as long as it is not higher than 30 in. (762 mm) from fuel in the fuel tank. Maintenance Field service is limited to the extent of cleaning the bot- tom cover, filter, plunger tube and plunger assembly. Disassembly 1. With a 5/8 in. wrench, release bottom cover from the bayonet fittings. Twist cover by hand to remove pump body. 2. Remove filter, magnet and cover gasket. Wash filter in cleaning solvent and blow out dirt and cleaning solvent with air pressure. Check cover gasket and replace if deteriorated. Clean cover. Remove retainer spring from plunger tube using thin nose pliers to spread and remove ends of retainer from tube. Remove washer, “O” ring. seal, cup valve, plunger spring and plunger from the tube. 4. Wash parts in cleaning solvent and blow out with air pressure. If plunger does not wash clean or if, there are any rough spots, gently clean surface with crocus cloth. Slosh pump assembly in clean- ing solvent. Blow out the tube with air pressure. To do a complete job, swab the inside of the tube with a cloth wrapped around a stick. Reassembly 1. Insert the plunger, assembling the tube with the buffer spring end first. Check fit by slowly raising B and lowering the plunger in the tube. It sould move fully without any tendency to stick. If aclick cannot be heard, the interrupter assembly is not functioning properly in which case the pump should be replaced. 2. To complete the assembly, install the plunger spring, cup valve, “O" ring seal and washer. Compress spring and assemble retainer with the ends of the retainer inside holes of tube. 3. Place the cover gasket and magnet in the bottom cover and assemble filter and cover assembly. ‘Twist cover by hand to hold in position on pump housing. With a 5/8 in. wrench, securely tighten, bottom cover. CAUTION: DO NOT tamper with seal at center of mounting bracket at side of pump as it retains the dry gas which surrounds the electrical system in the upper Portion of the pump. Hf pump does not operate, check for: 1. Ground to mount or frame. 2. Clean tight electrical connections. 3. Pump voltage and polarity. Must be the same as the unit system. If pump operates but does not del for: F fuel, check Air leak in the tubing or connections. Kinked tubing or other restriction in the line Leaking or distorted cover gasket. Dirty filter. NOTE: Use a fuel pump and filter designed for diesel fuel. DO NOT USE GASOLINE FILTER.Refrigeration Maintenance CONDENSER COIL Clean the condenser coil every S00 operating hours by blowing compressed air from the back side of the coil ‘out toward the front of the unit (the direction opposite the normal air flow). Inspect the coil and fins for damage and repair if necessary DEFROST DRAINS Clean the defrost drains every 1,000 operating hours to be sure that they are open. REFRIGERANT CHARGE ‘Testing the Refrigerant charge with an Empty Box With an insufficient charge of refrigerant in the system, the evaporator will be “starved” and the box temperature will rise even though the unit is operating. The suction pressure will drop as the refrigerant charge decreases. The charge may be determined by inspection of the refrigerant through the receiver tank sight glass with the following conditons established: 1. Place thermometer (204-135) lead in the box near the evaporator return air opening. 2. Install gauge manifold. 3. Run unit on Cool until the air in the box indicates 0 F (-17 C). By allowing the box to ieak a small amount, you will be able to maintain 0 F (-17.2.C), 4. Compound gauge should be indicating 2-1/2 - 0 psi (17.2 - 0 kPa) gauge pressure. If there is any doubt about unit gauge, check the calibration. 5. The discharge or head pressure gauge should read 150 psi (1034 kPa). If the pressure is below this, it can be raised by covering a portion of the con- denser coil with a piece of cardboard. 6. Under these conditions, the ball in the receiver tank sight glass should be floating ‘Testing the Refrigerant Charge with a Loaded Box 1, Install a gauge manifold (optional). Run the unit on the Cool cycle. Cover at least three quarters of the condenser to drive any excess refrigerant from the condenser into the receiver tank 4, As head pressure is rising, check the receiver tank sight glass, The ball should be floating. If there is, no indication of refrigerant in the receiver tank sight glass, the unit is low on refrigerant. u NOTE: If the ball floats, there is sufficient refrigerant in the unit for that load at that particular box temperature. This test does not determine if the unit contains a full charge of refrigerant. REFRIGERANT LEAKS Use a reliable leak detector (i.e., electronic detector or Halide torch) to leak test the refrigeration system. Inspect carefully for signs of oil leakage which is the first sign of a leak in the refrigeration system. CHECKING COMPRESSOR OIL The compressor oil should be checked when there is evidence of oil loss (oil leaks) or when components in the refrigeration system have been removed for service or replacement. To check compressor oil level with an ambient air temperature above 50 F (10 Cr: Install a gauge manifold on the compressor. Operate the unit on COOLING with a 18 psi (124 kPa) minimum suction pressure and a 100 psi (689 kPa) minimum discharge pressure for 15 minutes or more. After the unit has maintained the above conditions for 15 minutes, observe the oil level. The oil should be 1/4 to 1/2 up in the sight glass. ‘Add Compressor Oil HereTo check compressor oil level with an ambient air temperature below 50 F (10 Cl: Run the unit through a complete DEFROST CYCLE. Afier completing the defrost cycle, run the unit on COOLING for ten minutes. Observe the oil level. The oil should be 1/4 to 1/2 up in the sight glass. If the evaporator temperature is above 32 F (0.C), it will be necessary to force the defrosting. To force defrost, use a jumper wire and jump the No. 12 wire at the defrost relay to ground. Then push the manual defrost switch, Remove the jumper wire from the defrost relay NOTE: "Use refrigeration compressor oil ONLY, petroleum type, TK Part No. 67-426; or synthetic type ‘TK Part No. 67-404 (types may be mixed). COMPOUND PRESSURE GAUGE (Optional Equipment) The suction pressure at the compressor is shown on the compound pressure gauge. The compound gauge ‘monitors the refrigeration system and indicates the ex- pansion valve is working. ‘The compound pressure gauge should be recalibrated ‘occasionally by comparing it with a gauge of known ac- curacy or by adjusting to zero at atmospheric pressure. To recalibrate the compound gauge with a gauge of known accuracy, install the check gauge on the service valve fitting. Turn the adjustment screw on the unit gauge to match the reading on the check gauge. To zero the gauge, pump down the unit and pressurize the low side to slightly positive (2 to 5 psi [14 to 34 KPa). Disconnect the gauge line and turn the adjust- ‘ment screw on the unit gauge to bring the reading to zer0. NOTE: If the compound pressure gauge changes after calibration, there is probably oil in the bellows. To remove the oil, itis necessary to remove the gauge. Removing the Compound Gauge 1. Pump down the low side and equalize pressure to slightly positive. Remove the pressure gauge line from the gauge. 2. Remove the gauge from the panel. 3. Remove the slotted screw from the fitting on the back of the gauge. 4, Shake out any oil that is in the bellows. ‘Check the orifice in the screw to see that it is open. 6. Replace the screw in the fitting and test the gauge with a refrigerant tank equipped with a tank pressure gauge. 7. If the gauge will not stay in calibration, it must be replaced.Refrigeration Service Operations NOTE: tis generally good practice to replace the filter drier whenever the high side is opened or when the low side is opened for an extended period of ime. Refer to the Refrigeration Manual for system cleanup after a compressor failure or repair or replacement of basic components. COMPRESSOR Removal 1. Pump down the refrigerant charge or compressor. 2. Front seat the discharge and suction service valves. Release remaining pressure, 3. Remove discharge and suction valves from the compressor. Disconnect pilot valve hose. Remove belts Remove compressor mounting serews, Lift the service valves out of the way. Lift the compressor from the unit. Keep the compressor ports covered to prevent dust, dirt, etc., from falling into the compressor. NOTE: When the compressor is removed from the unit, oil level should be noted, or the oil removed from the compressor should be measured so that the same amount of oil can be added before placing the new com- pressor or repaired compressor in the unit. Installation 1, Lower compressor into unit 2. Place compressor in position and install mounting screws and belts Install service valves using new gaskets. 4, Pressurize compressor and test for refrigerant leaks. 5. If no leaks are found, evacuate the compressor. 6. Back seat the suction service valve and then crack the valve open 1/2 turn, 7. Back seat the discharge service valve. 8. Open the receiver outlet valve fully if the system was pumped down. 9. Operate the unit at least 30 minutes and then i spect the oil level in the compressor. Add or remove oil if necessary 10. Check the refrigerant charge and add refrigerant if needed. CONDENSER COIL Removal 1, Release the refrigerant charge. 2. Remove the grille. 3. Disconnect radiator hoses. 4, Remove the inlet and liquid lines. Installation 1, Clean the tubes for soldering. 2. Place the coil in the unit and install the screws and nuts. 3. Solder the inlet line and liquid line connections. Connect radiator hoses. 5. Pressurize the refrigerant system and test for leaks. 6. Evacuate the condenser coil. 7. Recharge the unit. 8. Fill engine cooling system. 9. Reinstall the grille. DISCHARGE VIBRASORBER Removal 1, Remove the refrigerant charge. 2. Remove the bolts, nuts and washers from the discharge service valve. 3. Heat the connections on the vibrasorber until the vibrasorber can be removed. Installation 1. Prepare the vibrasorber and tubing cleaning thoroughly. tings by 2. Install the mounting bolts in service valve. Place vibrasorber in position and solder connec- tion with 95-5 soft solder. CAUTION: Use a heat sink, TK 204-388, or wrap the vibrasorber with wet rags to prevent damaging the vibrasorber.Place the valve in position using new gaskets. Pressurize the system and test for leaks. If no leaks are found, evacuate the system. Charge the unit with R-12 and check the com- pressor oil level. SUCTION VIBRASORBER Removal 1. Remove bottom cover. 2. Pump down the low side and equalize the pressure to slightly positive. 3. Release remaining pressure, unsolder suction vibrasorber from accumulator tank and suction, valve. CAUTION: Do not stand under the ac- cumulator tank when removing the suction line. ‘The tank or the suction Tine may leak oll. Installati 1. Clean tubes for soldering. Pressurize the low side and check for leaks. If no leaks are found, evacuate the low side. Place vibrasorber in position and solder connection to accumulator tank. CAUTION: Use a heat sink or wrap the vibrasorber with wet rags (o prevent damaging the vibrasorber. 5. Open the refrigeration valves and place unit in operation. Check refrigerant charge and add refrigerant as required, FILTER DRIER Removal: 1, Pump down the low side and equalize the pressure to slightly positive. 2. Disconnect the flare nuts at the end of the drier. 3. Remove the drier. Installation: 1. Hold the drier in position and tighten the moun- ting screws. 2. Install and tighten the inlet flare nut (inlet end of drier is labeled “IN”). Hold the drier with a back- up wrench on the hex behind the flare fitting. 3. Release a small amount of refrigerant to purge the u air through the drier. Then tighten outlet flare ut 4. Pressurize the low side and check for leaks. If no leaks are found, open the refrigeration valves and place the unit in operation. EVAPORATOR COIL Removal: 1. Pump down thelow side and equalize the pressure to slightly positive. 2. Remove evaporator back panel. Unbolt expansion valve power element from mounting base. Discon- rect damper solenoid from shaft and arm. 3. Unsolder exparsion valve mounting base and defrost line from distributor, 4, Unsolder suction line from coil 5. Disconnect air switch hoses and defrost termina- mn thermostat wires. 6. Remove mounting bolts and slide coil from unit. Installation: 1. Place coil in housing. 2. Install mounting bolts and tighten, 3. Connect air swi:ch hoses and defrost termination thermostat wires. 4. Clean tubes for soldering. 5. Solder suction and connection of unit. Solder expansion valve mounting base and defrost line to distributor head. 6. Install expansion valve power clement assembly on mounting base. Connect damper solenoid to shaft and arm, 7. Pressurize the low side and test for leaks. If no leaks are found, evacuate the low side. 8. Open the refrigeration valves and place the unit in operation. Check the refrigerant charge and compressor oil and add as required. EXPANSION VALVE POWER ASSEMBLY Removal: 1 Pump down the low side and equalize the pressure to slightly positive. Remove feeler bulb from suction line, Disconnect equalizer line from power element assembly.4. Unbolt power element from expansion valve base, Installation: 1. Place expansion valve cage on the mounting base. 2. Mount power assembly and bolt in place. 3. Connect equalizer line. 4, Clean suction line to bright polished condition. Install the feeler bulb in the feeler bulb clamp on. the suction line. The feeler bulb must make good. contact with the suction line or operation will be faulty. Cover with insulating tape. 5. Pressurize the low side and test for leaks. If no leaks are found, evacuate the low side. ‘Open the refrigeration valves and place the unit in operation. 8. Operate unit and note suction pressure and box temperature to see that expansion valve is working. properly. THREE-WAY VALVE REPAIR Removal: 1. _ Remove the refrigerant charge. 2. Clean the exterior surface of the valve. Remove the 1/4 in. copper line from the 3-way valve to the pilot solenoid, 4. Loosen the four 1/4 in. Allen head screws (DO NOT REMOVE); use tool No. 204-424 to break the gasket at each side of the center section. CAUTION: Do not force the tool into the brass or against the bolts. 5. Remove the 4 bolts from the valve. 6. Remove the end cap. Insert tool 204-313 against locking ring and move the lock ring toward the valve sealing end, Observe the slot in the spool shaft and slide the piston away from this slot. Remove piston, lock ring and spring from spool 9. Spool assembly can be removed from center sec- tion. 10, Inspect the following parts for wear or damage. a. Base, sealing and support area. , Center section, sealing surface. c. End cap, sealing and support surface. 4. Piston, quad ring surface. The following parts will be discarded: a. Spool assembly. a b. All gaskets. cc. Quad ring. Remove the screen. If any particles drop from the screen into the discharge line, the discharge line must be removed at the compressor. NOTE: The valve body cannot be recondition- ed. Seat positions change and improper sealing will result. Installation: After cleaning all parts, reassemble the valve. 1. Install new quad ring on piston. Install new spool into center section. Install screen into base end cap of body Install spring and locking ring on spool. Compress spring and lock ring exposing end of stem, slide piston over the stem end and allow spr- ing to expand. This will retain the piston in loca- tion, 6. Install new gaskets on both sides of valve body. Hold base end cap to center section and position, gasket NOTE: Valve should move freely. 7. Install spring in the cap or inside of piston. 8. Push cap over quad ring. Use care to prevent damaging ring. CAUTION: Line up the passageways in the cap and the body. Failure to line up holes will result in improper operation of valve. 9. Install bolts and tighten in rotating sequence. 10. Install pilot line and pressurize the system with refrigerant to check for leaks. IL. If there are no leaks, evacuate the system and recharge with refrigerant 12, Run the unit to check for proper 3-way valve operation. ACCUMULATOR Removal 1. Drain engine cooling system. 2. Remove the bottom panel from the unit and disconnect the water hoses. Pump down the low side and equalize the pressure to slightly positive. 4, Remove mounting bolts from accumulator moun- ting brackets.Unsolder the refrigerant lines from the tank. CAUTION: Do not stand under the ac- cumulator tank when removing the suction fine. ‘The tank or the suction line may leak oil. 6, Lift accumulator from unit. Installation 1, Place accumulator in unit. 2. Install mounting bolts loosely. 3. Solder refrigerant tubes to accumulator. 4, Tighten accumulator mounting bolts. s. Pressurize the low side and test for refrigerant leaks. If no leaks are found, evacuate the low side. Connect the water hoses and refill the engine cool- ing system. Replace the bottom panel. ‘Open the refrigeration valves and place the unit in ‘operation. Check the refrigerant charge and add refrigerant if needed. RECEIVER TANK Removal: 1, Remove the refrigerant charge. 2. Unsolder refrigerant lines from the receiver tank. 3. Remove nut from top and bottom of receiver tank. Installation: 1. Position receiver tank on unit and install moun- ting nuts. 2. Solder refrigerant lines to receiver tank. Pressurize the refrigeration system and check for leaks. 4, If no leaks are found, evacuate the system. Recharge the unit. CONDENSER DISCHARGE AND BYPASS. CHECK VALVE Removal 1. Remove the refrigerant charge. 2. Unsolder lines and remove check valve. NOTE: Disassemble valve before unsoldering. Installation Clean the tubes for soldering. Place disassembled check valve in position. Arrow on valve body indicates direction of flow through valve. 3. Solder the inlet and outlet connections. After the valve cools, reassemble valve. 4, Pressurize the refrigeration system and test for leaks. If no leaks are found, evacuate the system. 6. Recharge the unit and check compressor oi PILOT SOLENOID Removal 1, Pump down the low side and equalize the pressure to slightly positive. 2. Disconnect refrigeration lines to the solenoid and immediately plug to prevent moisture and air from entering the system. Disconnect coil wires. Unbolt pilot solenoid and remove from mounting bracket. Installation 1. Bolt the pilot solenoid to mounting bracket. 2. Remove the plugs from the refrigeration lines and ‘connect lines to pilot solenoid. 3. Connect electrical wires to valve. 4, Open the refrigeration valves and place the unit in operation. NOTE: If the procedure is done quickly and carefully, there is no need for evacuation of the system. The slight amount of air in the pilot solenoid may be purged out by connecting one line tight and the other only finger tight, and then releasing the refrigerant in the system. Tighten the last line. 5. Check for leaks. PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE Removal Pump down the low side and equalize the pressure to slightly positive. 2. Release remaining pressure and unsolder pressure regulator valve from suction vibrasorber and suc- tion valve.Installation 1, Clean tubes for soldering, 2. Place valve in position and solder connections. CAUTION: Use a heat sink or wrap the valve with wet rags to prevent damaging the vibrasorber. Pressurize the low side and check for leaks. 4, If no leaks are found, evacuate the low side. 5. Open the refrigeration valves, and place the unit in operation. Check refrigerant charge and add refrigerant as required, 0Structural Maintenance UNIT AND ENGINE MOUNTING BOLTS Periodically check and tighten all unit and engine ‘mounting bolts. Torque the unit mounting bolts to 78 fi/Ib (105.8 Non). Torque the engine mounting bolts to 50 ft/Ib (68 Nem). Check Bolts for Tightness FAN LOCATION ‘When mounting the fan and hub assembly on the fan- shaft, position the assembly in the orifice with 30 to 35 percent of the blade width to the air discharge side for proper fan performance. ORIFICE AIR FLOW h) 30 to 36 percent of blade width to air discharge side Fan Biade Position in Orifice JACKSHAFT ASSEMBLY ‘The KD 30 does not have electric standby capability, therefore, the electric motor is replaced by a jackshaft. ‘The jackshaft assembly oil level plug should be removed and the oil level checked every 400-600 operating hours. Check the jackshaft during the pre-trip inspection for oil leakage. If there is any sign of leakage, remove and, repair the jackshaft assembly. w ue / \ Fil Plug Oil Level Plug Jackshaft Assembly Disassembly 1. Remove jackshaft assembly from unit and remove pulleys. 2. Remove level and fill plugs and drain oil reservoir. 3. Remove bearing retainer cap from fill plug end of jackshaft assembly. NOTE: There are shims between the bearing re- tainer cap and the housing. These should be saved for possible reuse during reassembly. 4, Remove shaft and bearings. 5. Remove retainer cap from level plug end of assembly, 6. Use a punch and hammer to remove the seals and. bearing cups from the bearing retainer caps. 7. Usea bearing splitter or similar tool to remove the bearing cones from the shaft. 8. Clean all parts in clean solvent and then examine the bearing cups and cones for damage. Reassembly 1. Coat the outer edges of the oil seals with a gasket sealant. 2. Using a suitable tool, install the seals in the endcaps. Fill the space between the seal lips with grease. 3. Assemble oil level plug end of shaft. Torque bolts to 10 fe/Ib (13.6 N-m). 4, Install shaft onto housing and assemble remaining ‘end cap, O-ring and shims on housing. Torque bolts to 10 fi/Ib (13.6 N-m). 5. Check end play with a dial indicator. Add or remove shims until end play is between .001 to (00S in. (0.025 to 0.127 mm), 6. Fill oil reseivoir with 3 ozs (89 ml) of a light detergent SA/SB type of oil. FAN SHAFT ASSEMBLY The KD-I is equipped with a one-piece fan shaft assembly that contains tapered roller bearings in a seal- ed oil reservoir. This assembly does not require any maintenance. There is a level plug and a fill plug, but they are not normally utilized except after removal and repair of the fan shaft assembly. The condenser end oil seal and the evaporator end oil seal should be checked uring the pre-trip inspection for oil leakage. If there is any sign of leakage, the fan shaft assembly should be removed and repaired. NOTE: The fan shaft assembly requires a special Federal Department of Agriculture approved, edible oi ‘Thermo King Part No. 203-278. Fan Shaft Assembly Overhaul Disassembly 1, Remove the fan shaft assembly from the uni Remove both oil plugs and drain the oil from the housing. 2. After draining the oil from the housing, remove the four retaining bolts from the condenser end of the assembly. 3. To remove the shaft from the assembly, tap the ‘opposite end of the shaft with a soft hammer, ‘After the shaft has been removed, clean all parts, in clean solvent. Removing Shaft 4, Using a punch, remove the oil seal from the evaporator end of the assembly. With the seal removed, clean the housing in solvent. Removing Oil Seal 5. Check the condition of the vent. If it is loose or damaged, it must be repaired or replaced, 6. After all the parts are cleaned, inspect the bearings and bearing races for wear or damage. To replace the bearings, first remove the roll pin that is in the center of the shaft. 8 With the roll pin removed, place a pipe over the shaft and drive one bearing down until the op-posite bearing, and bearing spacer, release from ‘out with the race. Reinstall the splash guard after the shaft, replacing the bearing race. Installing Splash Guard Removing Roll Pin 3. Install a new oil seal after replacing the bearing race and splash guard. 9. After removing one bearing and bearing spacer, turn the shaft upside down and drive the other bearing off, using the pipe. 10, Bearing races can now be driven out with a punch and replaced in the same manner. Reassembly 1. Install the new bearings on the shaft with a pipe in the same way they were removed. Installing Oil Seat 4. Replace the shaft in the housing. Install a new seal in the retainer cap. Use the original shims and Installing Bearings replace the ‘“O” ring if needed. 2. When replacing the bearing race on the evaporator end of the assembly, the splash guard will come Bws ‘Shims and O-Ring 5. Install the retainer cap assembly over the shaft, then install the bolts. 6. Torque the bolts in a criss-cross pattern in equal steps to 80 inch-pounds (9.04 N-m). Torquing Retainer Plate Botts 7. Lock the assembly in a vise and set up a dial indicator to read end-play. To measure the end- play, rotate the shaft while pushing in one ditec- tion and set the dial indicator to ‘0’. Now rotate the shaft and pull in the opposite direction while reading the dial indicator. End-play should be 001 to .005 (.025 to .127 mm). If end-play is incorrect, use different shims to obtain correct end-play u Shims available from Service Parts Department: .020(.500mm) Thermo King Part No. 99-4231 (007(.177mm) ‘Thermo King Part No. 99-2902 (005.127 mm) Thermo King Part No. 99-2901 Checking End Play 8. After correct end-play is obtained, add grease for the bearings. NOTE: Use ONLY Thermo King special fan shaft grease in this assembly. Lock the assembly in a vise with the vent facing up. Pour grease through the top plug until it runs ‘out of the side hole. The assembly holds 2.2 oz (62.36 gm). Check the condition of the “O” ring used on the plugs and replace if necessary. Install top and side plugs. Clean up any spillage. 9, Place the assembly on the work bench with the vent up. Rotate the shaft by hand. The shaft should be free enough to rotate without having to hold the housing, CAUTION: Reinstall assembly into unit making sure the vent is mounted facing up.