Lemon Oil

Top Note 55 4 3 2

Odour : Fresh, sweet, citrusy, like ripe lemon -

peel.

Natural source Outer rind of the fruits of Citrus limonum

Geographical source Italy, USA, South, Africa, Cyprus
Production technique Expression
Appearance Pale Yellow to greenish Yellow, mobile liquid
Chief constituents Citral, d-limonene, linalool, aldehydes C8, C10, C12, pinenes,
alpha-terpineol, citronellol, geranyl acetate, furanocoumarins
Use in Fragrance For freshness, in Colognes, floral fragrances. Use level upto 5 %
Use in Flavour Good masking property; in custard; in Lemon – lime flavours.
‘Terpeneless’ variety is prefererable for miscibility. Use level
upto 5% or more
Applications In citrus and other Eaux de Cologne and toilet waters; also
more generally, as a freshening top note component
Experiment With Petitgrain Oil or Bigarade
 Sandalwood Oil
Basic Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Slight terpinee top – note. Woody – sweet

–soft body, animalic – balsamic notes. Very
tenacious.

Natural source The comminuted heartwood of mature,

cultivated trees of Santalum album
Geographical source India, Indonesia
Production technique Steam Distillation
Appearance Pale Yellow to darker yellow, moderately viscous liquid
Chief constituents Alpha- and beta-santalols, alpha- and beta-santalenes,
geraniol, citronellol, alpha-terpineol, para-methyl
acetophenone, carvone No recommended restictions
Use in Fragrance As a blender and fixative in any fragrance, A ‘must’ in Attars,
Use level upto 5%. Upto 90% in Attars.
Use in Flavour For Mouth – freshners & chewing Tabacco. Use level upto 5%
Applications A superior fixative and blender for use, when affordable, in
many perfume types, from florals to Fougere, from aldehydics
to Orientals. Only the cost of sandalwood Oil, East Indian,
restricts the use of this outstanding material
Experiment With a balanced blend of Rose and Jasmine bases 9pp
 Clove Oil
Middle Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Warm – spicy, clove – natural sweetness

– smoothness.

Natural source Comminuted sun-dried, unopened flower buds of

Syzygium aromaticum
Geographical source Zanzibar, Madagascar, Comoro Islands
Production technique Water distillation (In countries to which clove are exported)
Appearance Almost colourless to pale brown, mobile liquid
Chief constituents Eugenol, derivatives of eugenol, caryophyllene, methyl amyl
ketone
Use in Fragrance In spicy fragrance, fragrances. For Men’s products, Use level
upto 2%
Use in Flavour In spicy flavour, flavours for dental preparations. Use level
upto 5%
Applications In spicy and Carnation perfumes , also, in the small dosages,
for imparting richness to almost any perfume
Experiment With iso-amyl salicylate. Compare the effect with that of
Eugenal Oil a parallel experiment
 Neroli Oil
Top Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Orange blossom like

Natural source Flowers of cultivated tress of Citrus aurantium, var amara

Geographical source Southern France, Tunisia, Italy
Production technique Water distillation
Appearance pale yellow, mobile liquid
Chief constituents Lonalool, linalyl aceatate, methyl anthranilate, citral, nerol,
farnesol, alpha-terpineol, limonene, pinenes, gamma-terpinene
Use in Fragrance Used in costly fragrance for fine fresh - floral charctor. Use level
upto 2%
Use in Flavour For natural rounding effect in many flavours. Use level traces to
1%
Applications In fine perfumery, as an almost irreplaceable ingredient of
Eauxde Cologne, and of the top note complex of fine perfumes,
to which it impart freshness and lightness of a distinctive
character
Experiment (a) With Lavender Oil; and (b) with an Orange Blossom base
(p.456). In both (a) and (b) , compare the effects of orange
flower Absolute with those of Neroli Oil in parallel experiments
 Basil Oil
Middle Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Sweet –vaguely aniselike, cooling –

fresh minty – herbaceous, slight smokey.

Natural source Flowering tops of the herb.

Ocimum basilicum
Geographical source USA, France
Production technique Steam distillation
Appearance Colourless to pale Yellow,mobile liquid
Chief constituents Estragole (methyl chavicol). Linalool, terpinyl
aceatate. 1,8-cineole, eugenol, ocimene
Use in Fragrance For green - herbal character in modern fragrances.
Use level upto 2%
Use in Flavour Mainly in spicy flavours. Use level upto 1%
Applications For its characteristic, warm herbal-anisic notes in
Chypre, floral-aldehydic and modern Fougere
perfume type
Experiment As a 20% solution, with Lavender Oil
 Geranium Oil
Middle Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Sweet – rosy - floral, fruity – minty –

green; slightly more grassy – minty than
Bourbon varienty

Natural source Leaves and green branches of Pelargonium

graveolens
Geographical source Reunion, Algeria, Morocco
Production technique Steam Distillation
Appearance pale yellow to pale green, mobile liquid
Chief constituents Geraniol, geranyl formate, citronellol, citronellyl formate,
geranyl tiglate, linalool, alpha-terpineol, menthone, iso-
menthone
Use in Fragrance For green – rosy nature in many fragrances, Eg. Rose, Oriental –
Bouquent.
Use in Flavour Preferable to use Rhodinol, if source of Geranium is not
known. Use level upto 5%
Applications In rose and other florals, and in essentially non-floral perfumes,
for augmenting floral power and depth. Frequently used in
perfumes for toilet preparations
Experiment Using a 10% solution, with phenylethyl alcohol
 Lavender Oil

Top Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Sweet, refreshing, floral-herbaceous –

camphoraceous nature, with balsamic –
woody background.

Natural source Aerial parts of Lavandula officinalis

Geographical source Southern, France, Bulgaria, Italy, Tasmania
Production technique Steam Distillation
Appearance Colourless to pale yellow,mobile liquid
Chief constituents Linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, ethyl amyl ketone,
limonenes, pinene, caryophyllene, 1,8-cineale, lavadulyl acetate
Use in Fragrance For freshness, in Colognes, Fougere, Lavender, masculine
blends. Use level upto 10% rarely more.
Use in Flavour For freshness, in flavours for liquers & tobacco. Use Level upto
2%
Applications In Chypre, Fougere and Eaux de Cologne, also in many other
perfume types for freshness it confers upon the top note
Experiment With Musk T (Takasago)
 Styrax Oil
Middle Note 5 4 2
3
Odour : Sweet, balsamic, slight spicy, somewhat floral
nature.

Natural source The pathological oleoresin exuded from the

trunk of the tree Liquidambar orientalis or Liquidamber
styraciflua
Geographical source Anatolia, USA, Central America
Production technique Steam distillation
Appearance Colourless to pale yellow, viscous liquid
Chief constituents Styrene, cinnamyl alcohol, esters of cinnamyl alcohol, ethyl
cinnamate
Use in Fragrance To enhance & soften base notes in florals; in fragrance for bath
– soap. Use level upto 5%.
Use in Flavour (Styrax extract FEMA No. 3037 is used in flavours).
Applications In florals, such as Hyacinth, Lilac and Carnation
Experiment With a Hyacinth base (p.451). Compare with the effect of the
same proportion of Styrax Resinoid in the same base
 Jasmine Absolute
Middle Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Jasmine odour, strog/powerful; delicate

nature as compared to concrete

Natural source Freshly picked flowers of jasminum officinalis

Geographical source Frence, Egypt, Italy, People’s Republic of China
Production technique Extraction of jasmin concrete with ethanol
Appearance Reddish brown, rather viscous liquid
Chief constituents Benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, linalool
eugenol, indole, cis-jasmone, cis-phytol and phytyl acetate,
methyl jasmonate, cis-hex-3-en-1-yl benzoate, jasmin lactone,
8-geranyl-linalool
Use in Fragrance Floral, not necessarily Jasmine; any fine fragrance for
spacy. Use level traces to 1%
Use in Flavour Occasionally, for some liqueurs & pastries. Use level traces to
0.1%
Applications In fine fragrance as an ingredient of almost every kind of
feminine perfume and, at lower dosage levels, in fine masculine
fragrances. Very frequently in combination with Rose Otto
and/or Rose Absolute, to provide the floral heart of a
composition
Experiment As a 10% solution, with a 10% solution of Rose de Mai Absolute,
to fine an olfactory balance point
 Olibanum Resinoid

Basic Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Sweet, typically balsamic-oriental note.

Natural source The natural oleo-gum-resin exuded from Boswellia

carteril and other species of Boswellia
Geographical source Sultanate of Oman, Somali Republic
Production technique Extraction with volatile hydrocarbons
Appearance Golden yellow to reddish brown, clear, viscous liquid
Chief constituents Pinenes, thujene, terpineol, methyl chavicol, para-cymene,
terpinyl acetate, odourless resin
Use in Fragrance As a fixtive in verious blends, particularly Oriental type.
(Reported 14% in ‘Olibanol’). Use level upto 5%
Use in Flavour (Olibanum oil FEMA No. 2816 is used in flavoue.)
Applications As a fixative, particularly in Oriental and spicy types of
composition
Experiment With a 5% solution of Cinnamon Bark Oil in Sandalwood Oil
 Civet
Basic Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Animalic, obnoxious; pleasant in

extreme dilution

Natural source The dried abdominal gland of male and

female civets, Viverra civetta
Geographical source Ethiopia, India, people’s Republic of China
Production technique Maceration with ethanol
Appearance Pale brown, mobile liquid
Chief constituents Civettone, civettol and other macrocyclic compounds; skatole
Use in Fragrance In traditional luxury fragrances. Pleasant in extreme dilution;
now rarely used. Use level upto 0.2%
Use in Flavour Occasionally with Indole; only in traces. About 0.05 ppm in
baked goods.
Applications To impart lift and fixation to delicate floral fragrance, such as
Lily-of-the-valley. And in Chypre-type perfumes
Experiment Determine the maximum percentage by weight of Civet
of known strengh that can be incorporated into an
experimental Lily-of-the-Valley base (p. 454) without the Civet
note becoming consciously perceptible
 Citronella Oil
Top Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Sweetish – terpinee, citrusy - rosy

Natural source Dried leaves of the grass, Andropogon nardus

Geographical source Sri Lanka
Production technique Steam Distillation
Appearance Yellow brownish Yellow, mobile liquid
Chief constituents Geraniol,citronellal, citronellol, methyl eugenol, camphene,
borneol
Use in Fragrance Occasionally for Soaps & Agarbatti. (Mainly a source for
Citronellal & Geraniol).Use level upto 10%
Use in Flavour Less costly Rose; traces in Fruity. Use level upto 5%
Applications In perfume for household products, Such as cleansing agents,
floor polished, detergents and soaps, and in industrial perfumes
Experiment With terponyl acetate, Compre the effect with that of(a)
Citronella Oil, Java and (b) Eucalyptus citriodira Oil, in parallen
experiments
 Peppermint Oil

Odour : Grassy – herbaceous – minty; somewhat

woody – resinou base; rather harsh –
more herbaceous than Piperita

Geographical source Japan. China, Brazil, South Africa; India cultivated.

Production technique Steam Distillation
Appearance Pale greenish-yellow, clear liquid.
Use in Fragrance As a less costly substitute for Poperita. Mainly a source for 1-
Menthol. Use level upto 5%.
Use in Flavour As a less costly substitute for Piperita . In dental preparations.
Use level upto 30%
Solubility Fair in Propylene glycol.
 Ylang-Ylang Oil
Middle Note 5 4 3 2

Odour : Sweet floral, jasmine like but heavier &

sweeter. Differs as per grades.

Natural source freshly picked flowers of Cananga odorata

Geographical source Comoro Islands, Nossi-Be, Madagascar
Production technique Fractional Steam Distillation to yield, in succession, Ylang-Ylang
Oils
Appearance ‘Extra’ Pale Yellow, mobile liquid
Chief constituents Linalool, linalyl acetate, eugenol, para-cresyl methyl ether,
benzyl acetate, methyl benzoate, methyl salicylate, geraniol;
geranyl acetate, caryophyllene
Use in Fragrance For sweetness in any floral fragrance. Use level 0.5 to 5.0%.
Use in Flavour In fruit flavour like Apricot, Peach, etc, Modifier – sweetner for
Methyl salicylate. Use level traces to 1%. 5%
Applications ‘Extra’ as a lifting agent in high-quality-perfumes of floral, floral
aldehydic, Chypre and Oriental types
Experiment Compare the effects of both of the noted grades of Ylang-ylang
Oils in a Jasmine base (p. 452)
Thanks for patient
hearing