Storage Shed

Build Plans

Storage Shed Plans 1

 Storage Shed
Please Read!

Give the plans a quick brush through at least to get and idea of the steps
involved, parts and materials needed, and cuts to be made. This way, you
know what steps are coming up while working. It also gives you a chance
to prep and round up everything you’ll need.

Also, all the measurements in the plans are exact because

computers…but we’re all human and some cuts on our projects may not
be absolutely perfect, or you may use slightly different hardware than I
did. For that reason I suggest always referencing measurements from
your build as you go and use these as a reference to aim for. This is
especially true if you modify the size of your build from mine.

I am also not responsible or liable for anything. You’re assuming this build
yourself based on your skill level, and knowledge of local laws and
building codes.

Enjoy building!

Storage Shed Plans 2

Table of Contents

Supplies List 4
Framing Basics 5
Floor Structure 6-7
Rear Wall Assembly 8-9
Side Wall Assembly 10-11
Front Wall Assembly 12-14
Roof Assembly 15-18
Trim Install 19-20
Door Assembly 21-22
Odds and Ends 23-24

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Master Supplies List
Wood Quantity Details
2x4x8 (pine) 41 Wall studs and door
2x4x8 (pressure treated) 12 Floor joists and door frame (for a heavier shed you may want 2x6 joists)
2x4x10 (pine) 17 Wall plates, roof rafters
2x4x10 (pressure treated) 2 Floor joists (for a heavier shed you may want 2x6 joists)
2x6x10 (pine) 1 Door header
4x4x10 (pressure treated) 3 Floor sleepers/beams/skids (whatever you want to call them)
¾” OSB (tongue and groove) 3 Flooring
½” OSB 12 Wall and roof sheets
5/4”x6x8 Deck boards (pressure treated) 5 Trim (you may not find deck boards, but 2x6 material will work)
5/4”x6x10 Deck boards (pressure treated) 4 Trim and roof fascia (you may not find deck boards, but 2x6 material will work)
5/4”x6x12 Deck boards (pressure treated) 4 Roof fascia and door (you may not find deck boards, but 2x6 material will work)

Other Materials
Treated screws (or galvanized nails) 460~ 75~3”, 55~3.5”, 170~2”, 160~1.5” Treated/galvanized wont rust from PT wood
Deck screws (or framing nails) 850~ 350~3”, 500~1.5” Regular deck/framing fasteners are fine for regular wood
Hurricane ties 6 You can use more or less depending on local codes for roof rafters
Angle brackets 8 Structural strong ties like the hurricane ties
Hinges 4 Fairly heavy duty, the door is heavy. Bigger is better in this case
Latch 1
Handle 1
Caulking 1 Window and door, outdoor caulk
Paint, brushes and long nap roller - Outdoor rated paint

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Framing Basics When it comes to framing, it helps to remember that
all materials are designed to work together. We need
all our floor joists and wall studs to be 16” on center,
so we are going to start from a common point, I used
the right side. In this case place the 2, 10’ long boards
(these will be the floor rim joists or wall top and
bottom plates) together and measure 16 ¾” from
right to left and make a mark at every interval, then on
the backside where the 16” mark is place a X. This
way we know where the joist will go and they all end
up on the correct side of your line. A good tape
measure should have every 16” mark highlighted so it
makes them easy to find. Then use a speed square
and extend the marks to the other joist, and the X’s.
Once they are all marked you can pick it up and walk
it to the other side and set it down for the joists/studs
to go in between. Marking both together ensures the
studs are in identical locations.

Another good habit to get into, you’ll want to ‘crown’ the boards.
Just stare down the length of the board and place it so the curve
bends upwards. This is for strength when it comes to floors as the
bend of the board is resisting the weight. If you just place them
however, you’ll have some crown down and some up. That will
not only make your floor or wall wavy, in a floor the boards crown
down will be a weak spot. Some boards will have a larger crown
then others, but all will have some. It helps to add an arrow pointing
to the top of the crown in the middle of the board so you don’t get lost.

When it comes to fastening it all together, you’ll need enough, and the right kind.
A good rule of thumb is the fastener should be twice as long as what you’re going
through. For this shed I used 2x4 for almost everything. They are actually 1.5” Pretend these are screws
or nails, not bolts. They
thick so we need 3” long screws or nails to assemble the walls and floor structure. are all I could find
The amount is easy, you need a fastener every 2” of height. 2x4’s require 2 screws
each, a 2x6 needs 3 and so on.

When it comes to type, pressure treated wood will need either coated screws for
ACQ, or galvanized nails. Both resist rusting away from the treating chemicals in
the wood. For untreated wood regular deck screws are fine.

Also, screws and nails have different uses usually. Screws clamp better, nails have
better shear strength. Screws are fine in this application because we aren’t
supporting any overhangs. I also used screws because it was more approachable.

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Floor Structure 1
The shed will rest on the 3, 10’ long treated skids (4x4).
Those will rest on a bed of natural rock you’ve raked and
leveled out first. Avoid using gravel because it holds
water, and you want this to be able to drain. You may
need to prop it up on patio blocks to level it.

The front and rear rim joists will also be 10’ long treated.
The floor joists will be 8’ long treated boards, but we need
to cut off 4” from the end of each one, this is so the outside
of the shed with the wall sheeting on will be 8’.
Now you can lay out all of the floor joists for assembly on your
framing X’s, don’t forget the crowns up!

When laying out your framing marks and you get

to the end, don’t skip this board! It lands on a 16”
mark so it gets a stick. Don’t be tempted to skip it.

Now with all the floor joists cut, crowned and set in place they should fall 16” to their centers
(from the corner out). This way the 48” mark for the floor sheeting edge falls on the center of
a joist so 2 sheets can share a joist, and the ends are not hanging in between joists making a
weak spot in the floor. You’ll see in the next step.
Fasten it all together!

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 The flooring is tongue and groove ¾” OSB. It is made for flooring and even has lines on it at every

Floor structure 2
Fasten the floor structure to the beams with angle brackets
in each corner and the center of the rims using 1 ½” fasteners.
For the middle of the joists, I just toenailed at 45° with 3” treated
screws into the beam.
16” interval so you know where to put your fasteners, since you can’t see your joists under it
(see what I mean when I said it all works together).
Start in the back right corner with a full sheet, tongue side forwards to the middle of the shed,
groove backwards. Flush it up with the corner and fasten it with a treated 1.5” screw (#1). Then go to
the far side of the sheet, flush it up and pin it (#2). Then push or pull the framing till it’s flush with the
short side of the sheet (#3). This self squares the floor to the sheeting. Keep your last fastener away from
the front edge, it’ll make it easier to slide the tongue and groove of the next sheet together.

#2

#3

#1

Half the joist

Throw down the next full sheet, but we are starting this one on half of the 3rd floor joist.
Slide the tongue and groove together, you may need to do a slide and stomp on them
to get them to fit tight, don’t hammer them as they crumble easy. Once it’s in place, pin
it with a few fasteners in the corners. You’ll have some overhang, we’ll cut it off in a sec.

Grab another full sheet and support it off the front right corner. You’ll see how one of the
16” lines on the sheet is the perfect cut line for that piece of OSB to fit widthwise, cut
it on the line, then screw down the corners.

Then take the cutoff and use it in the back left corner. You’ll also have overhang here on
the side.

Grab a chalk line and snap it flush with the edge of the framing on the OSB so you’ll have
line to follow. Using a circular saw with the blade depth set to barely cut through the
sheet, trim along your lines cutting off all the excess. Your flooring sheets should now
be flush with the framing!

Trim Now is the fun job…finish fastening it all down about every 16” along every joist,
no squeaky floors here. On the edges where they share a joist, you’ll probably have to
angle the screw a bit to catch enough wood.

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 Rear Wall assembly 1 Start sheeting here
in the bottom right
With the floor done, you can start the framing of the back wall on top of it. The top and bottom
plates of the wall are both 10’ long boards and can be untreated since they will be inside, the
studs are 8’. Using the same framing rules from before lay out all your framing marks again on the
plates, then cut all the wall studs to 73 ½”. This will make the back wall 6 ½’ tall once we add on
our 2nd plate. Don’t forget to crown your boards as you lay them out, then fasten it all together.
You can see here how all the studs land perfectly for the sheeting material to catch half a stud.

The far side of the sheet should land on

half a stud so it can share with the next

For the wall sheeting, it’s going to be ½” OSB (probably called 7/16” in store). Using a full sheet line up one edge of it with the side of framing,
and pull it down past the edge. Use a tape measure to confirm 4 ¼” past the bottom, flush with the side and pin the corner with a 1 ½” or 1”
deck screw. Then move to the other bottom edge (#2) and pull 4 ¼” again and pin that corner. From there move up to the top outside corner (#3),
push or pull the wall until it’s flush with the side and pin it. The wall framing squares itself up with the sheeting. Now you can add the other full sheet
beside it and flush it up with the first and pin it down.

#3 #2 For the last sheet you can pre-cut it if you want. I layed it in place, flushed it with the
previous sheet and pinned the 2 inside corners. Then I snapped a chalk line at flush
with the outside of the wall at 24” and cut it off with a circular saw, again the blade
depth was set to just cut through it. Pin the last 2 corners down, then add all
remaining fasteners.
#1

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 Rear Wall assembly 2
Once the wall is standing,
take a scrap board at a 45°
angle and pin it to the wall
and floor frame loosely. Then
it’ll hold itself up, but still
allow you to slide it left and
right to flush it with the floor.

With the sides cut and flushed up, the

bottom has the correct overhang already, Then with help, stand the wall up!
but the top is much too long. Measure up Congrats, now it has the semblance of a
from the top plate and make a mark 1 ½” building and not a dance pad…
up on each side. This is because the wall is well now it’s a dance pad with a backdrop.
still going to get a 2nd top plate, and the But it will be a building!
sheeting will be flush with it. Snap a chalk
line on the marks and cut off the overhang
with the circular saw.
The wall sheeting comes down to
the bottom of the framing. This
helps with waterproofing, but also
gives a spot to screw the wall and
frame together with some short,
treated screws.

Fasten the wall to the floor structure itself

with 3 ½” or 4” treated screws. We are
going down through the plate, OSB and
into the rim joist, so keep the screw about
¾” in from the outside of the plate to
catch the center of the rim joist. Add one
screw in between each stud.

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 More framing! Start by making a mark on the shed

Side Wall assembly 1 floor with a scrap 2x4. Your side wall will fit inside
this, but it should be about 88”. Mark your plates,
cut the studs to the same length as the back wall
73 ½”, crown them (no wavey walls) and fasten it
all together with 3” untreated screws. The plates
and studs are from 8’ long boards in the side walls.

This is what the wall will look like sheeted. Just like the back wall, build the side walls on the floor one at a time.
Top You’ll notice an extra stud in the middle of the wall at 12” on center. Because we have overhang of the sheeting
on each side, we needed an extra stud there so the sheets landed on it. You can always add more sticks to the
wall where it’s needed, but never skip keeping them 16” centers at the minimum.

Lay the sheeting down on the wall framing and grab your tape measure. Pull the sheeting sideways so you have
the correct 4” overhang. This is so it can overlap the front and rear wall framing and sheeting. Then pull it down
so you have 4 ¼” to overlap the floor framing again. You may have to go back and forth a bit between the 2 until
you get both where you need. Once it’s in place pin the corner (#1). Then at the top of the wall, pull it over so
it’s a 4” overhang up there and pin it (#2). Now come to the bottom corner again and push and pull until you get
to 4 ¼” and pin it (#3). This will square the wall framing up again! Toss the other sheet on, line it up with the
first and get comfy screwing it all down, same 16” spacing.
Front side

Rear side

Leave the tops long for now.

#2

#3

#1

Tip: snap chalk lines on the sheeting to let

Bottom
you see where the studs are underneath

Storage Shed Plans 10

 Side Wall Assembly 2 Stand the walls up and screw on 1 at a time

#5 Add the top plates on. The side wall plates are 91 ½” and overlap the rear
wall in the corners to tie them together for strength, this is why we didn’t add
the top plates when framing the walls. The rear wall plate fits in between and
is 113” but should be referenced
off your shed.

#6 To fix the top plates on, use

3” screws and add them every
16” down the length. On the
#3 Then go to the inside corner and screw the studs together ends I used 2 screws. In the
with 3” long screws every 16-24”. Keep the fastener ¾” from overlap corners use 3 in a
the outside so you land in the center of the stud behind. triangle shape for max strength.

#4 Switch to the 3.5” treated screws and continue along the

floor, screwing down into the framing. Keep the fastener ¾”
from the outside so you land in the center of the joist you’re
going into.

#1 Stand the wall up, slide it

over and into place. From the
outside, pull the rear wall flush
in the corner with the side wall
and add a 1 ½” screw, 1 ½” in
from the corner and pin the
sheeting into the corner stud.
Then do the rest of the wall
every 16” or so.

At the front edge the sheeting will overhang a ½”

to be flush with the front wall sheet. You’ll also
have room on the floor for the front wall framing #2 Once the corner is done stay outside, switch
to fit inside to 1 ½” treated screws and continue down the
bottom into the floor framing

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 Front wall assembly 1
Framing the front wall is a little different than the
others so the door is centered. The top and bottom
plates are all 10’ boards, the studs are 8’ boards cut
down to 87”, so the front wall comes up level to the
J K side wall OSB.
From each outside corner,
in towards the center, put a Find center of the 10’ long plates and make a mark,
stick at our normal 16” on but this time put a ‘C’ right on the mark, for ‘center’.
center. Then measure out in both directions from the center
c 24” and mark, then on the outside, instead of a ‘X’
make a ‘J’ for jack stud. Then another 1 ½” and
mark, outside that place a ‘K’ for king stud. The jack
holds up the door frame, king goes plate to plate.
This will make more sense in the next step.

Stand the wall up and slide into place. It’s

starting to look like something now. Hold off
on screwing down the 2nd top plate for now.

Cut 2 treated boards (jack

studs) and fasten them to
the king studs with 3”
treated screws. These go
right on the floor and not
the bottom plate. Then
add the top header over
the door and fasten down
with 2 screws to the jacks.
The inside of this door Screw the side walls sheeting to the front wall
opening is now 4’. studs just like step 1 on the last page.
Then with the 3.5” treated screws, down through
the floor plate. I added another 2” treated screw
by the door frame for a little extra hold.
Move inside and screw the walls together again
in the corners through the studs like step 3 on
the last page.

Once the wall is up and screwed into place,

remove the center door section of the bottom
plate with either a recip saw or hand saw. Don’t
remove this before standing the wall up as it
helps keep the wall straight and square.

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Door header assembly

This is where the lone 2x6 comes in. Cut 2 pieces to length to
make the door header. But doubled up it’s still not wide
enough so we also need to cut a scrap piece of ½” OSB the
same size to sandwich in the middle.
Then using 3” fasteners, make sure it never comes apart.

Once made we can fasten it above the door using 3” fasteners.

Go through the king stud into each end of each board of the header, so
all done it should have 12 total, 6 per side..
Don’t go up through the door frame into the bottom of it, sides only.

After that measure in from each side for the blocks above the header.
These will be regular framing 16” on center, just place 1 block
It stands on end above the door. measuring from each side because that’s how we started framing this
wall, outside in. These are just a 3 ½” piece of scrap material from the
studs slid sideways into place. Screw it in, down from the 1st top plate,
then screw the 2nd top plate down.

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 Front wall assembly 2
Now we need to sheet it since we stood it in place first
this time but holding it and fastening it at the same
time by yourself is next to impossible. Sooooo grab
some 3” screws and put 3 or 4 between the beam and
floor framing leaving about 1” showing. Rest a sheet
standing on end on the screws, then pull the side wall
#1 in to be flush and pin the upper corner (#1), then the
opposite bottom corner (#2) as long as it’s resting on
the screw shelf still and hasn’t pulled itself up and out
of square. If it did just push or pull the wall until square
and pin it. Then fasten the outside edges with 1 ½”
screws. Remove the screws making your shelf.

Repeat for the other front sheet. You’ll notice the shed
really get solid now that these 2 sheets went on.
Ahhhh satisfying.

Now half the door is covered as you can see from the
inside. Grab a router with a flush trim bit in it and cut it
open from the outside. Or easier still, I used a recip
saw from the inside and hugged the door frame and
cut the door opening. Once it’s cut out, finish fastening
the sheets around the door frame with 1 ½” treated
screws, and the wall studs with regular fasteners.

Now with some scrap pieces, cut out the

filler sections that go between the sheets
above and below the door, screw them on.

You could install all the wall sheeting

this way if you prefer to stand the wall
framing up first, and sheet after.

#2

Storage Shed Plans 14

Roof assembly 1

I tried to make to roof as simple as possible, no squares, pitches, birds mouth or rise and run to worry about. We reference the shed. (Birds mouth cuts
can be made if you want, but it isn’t a necessity on a small storage shed.)

We know that our difference between the front and back wall height is about 14”. Using the shed as our angle calculator, make a mark on the bottom of
14”
the shed wall 14” up from the bottom. Then hold one 10’ rafter board flush with the bottom of the back corner sheet, and the 14” mark at the front. Take
a scrap board, set it on top and mark the angle of the front wall sheeting on it. Viola, template! (keep this for the fascia later)

Use that at one end of the rafter and mark your angle, then cut it.

Take the rafter back to the shed, line it up again and figure out your overhangs. I pulled 8” out of thin air because why not. Pull it forward 8” from the
upper edge to the front wall and then measure and mark the rear overhang 8” from the upper edge to the rear wall. Flip the template over, mark and cut
the rear piece off at your 8” mark. You want to make sure that when both ends are cut, the ends are vertical when installed.

Mark the tops of the top plates for the rafters. They should fall in line with the rear wall studs.

Don’t forget to crown them

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Roof Assembly 2
Using some 3” or even 3.5” fasteners at a 45° angle,
drive 1 on each side through the rafter into the top
plate to hold it in place, repeat for the other end.

Grab another 10’ long

board for the sub-fascia.
Flush it up with the rafters
and fasten in place like
normal. This will really
start to firm up the roof.

Now we can bring the side wall sheeting down. Using a chalk line, snap a line where it intersects the front
and rear of the rafter. Then cut it off how your comfortable. I used a circular saw, but a recip saw or router
would also work. It will be covered by trim so if it isn’t perfectly straight, nobody will know. Then fasten the
side wall sheeting to the side of the rafter. Repeat for the other side.

The rear sub-fascia is the same as the front,

but it gets installed slightly off. Well, it looks
off but it actually makes it level in line with
the rafters. Grab a scrap piece of board, set
it on the rafter, then bump the sub-fascia up
to the bottom of it, then fasten it to each rafter.

Storage Shed Plans 16

 Roof assembly 3
The ends of the rafters now are at a different plain and need to be
flushed up with the side wall sheeting. Nothing fancy, just grab some
scraps and cap them using some 1.5” fasteners. Again, there will be
trim over this later.

When it comes to roofing materials, there are plenty of options to
choose from like steel, shingles, roll out asphalt roofing or even cedar.
I used shingles on mine, but this isn’t a shingle tutorial.
I’m only showing how to build the structure.
You can finish it with whatever your climate, budget
and access to materials allows you.
Sheeting the roof is next using the same ½” material as the walls. Slide one sheet up at a time up a ladder widthways and let it fall on the roof. Then flush it up
sideways, and to the front using a straight edge. It will raise up slightly off the sub fascia, that’s ok. Fasten down the side of the sheet with 1.5” fasteners. Then
working your way up, snap some chalk lines so you know where the rafters are, and keep fastening as you go. Repeat for the next full sheet beside it.
The last strip is a 24” wide piece, full length. See how that makes 10’ again…almost like this was planned.
The bottom edge isn’t a perfect size because our rafter overhangs were pulled out of thin air. I turned the sheet and put its length going widthways. This way we still have
it going 8’ long and 2’ long in the corner. Their widths however in my case were 20”. For the lower edge, use a straight edge to flush it up with the sub-fascia again.

Use a straight edge to flush these both up, because they sit off a bit.

Make sure the ends of your

sheets share a rafter.

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Roof assembly 4 Now we can start adding the actual fascia boards. These are where the deck boards come in. The
front and rear fascia is our 12’ long board. To make sure you have the correct length, hold it up in
place with a scrap piece of the same material on the side, flush it up, mark it and cut it. In my case,
deck boards are 1” thick, so I needed that much overhang on each side to account for the side
piece of trim. Mine is 123” but yours may be different with 2x6 trim or just per shed differences.

The front piece should be flush with the roof sheeting on the top, then using
2” long treated fasteners, add 2 per rafter.
The rear piece should be the same length as the front,
have the same overhangs on the sides, and fastened
the same way. The biggest difference is the same as

Scrap
the sub-fascia, it’s slightly offset. Use a straight edge
on the roof and flush it up to the bottom of it.

5.50”

The side piece is pretty easy. It’s a 10’ long board, hold it in place and just use the
existing front and rear fascia to mark the angles and lengths. Connect the marks
you make, confirm it with your rafter angle template (you still have it right?), cut it
and fasten it on with more 2” treated fasteners.
Once all the fascia boards are up, we just need a soffit to close it up.
Using more leftover scraps of OSB, confirm your width and rip some
pieces. Since they’re scraps, you may also need to cut to length
so they land on half a rafter at the end. Then 1.5” long
screws on each side of the sheet per rafter. Make some
marks on the wall sheeting for rafter reference to
make them easy to find.
Repeat for the rear soffit.

80.5”
If you store chemicals or anything in the
shed, you may wish to install a couple
vents in the soffit.

40.5”

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 Trim Install 1

Using more deck boards (or 2x6 if you can’t find them) we will make our trim. Cut these as you go so there isn’t a missed cut, it’s pretty easy to
lose track (ask me how I know). For most of the trim we will be ripping it right in half either on a table saw or circular saw.

And for 4 of our 8’ boards we will be ripping it slightly off center. These are for the corners. As you can see when we make a ‘L’ shape to cap the
corner, the outside measurement is the same in both directions. You’ll join them together with 2” treated fasteners about every 16” or so, but
only after cutting the tops in the next step because they will be a different angle per board.

These will change if you’re using 2x6 material because it’s thicker. You’ll need 3.75” and 1.75”, you’ll also use 3” fasteners to join them.

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Trim Install 2 If you install siding, you’ll skip most of this step
except the door casing

I have the basic sizes here, but just double check and confirm your shed first. You’ll notice I have the seams for the corner pieces all
facing sideways, it’s a small touch for esthetics. When it comes to fasteners, we don’t need many because these are cosmetic. A
single treated 2” every 16” is plenty, but I did use 2 per on the hinge side of the door for extra strength because it’s heavy. The 10’
long boards get ripped for the front and back walls on top and bottom, 8’ for the side wall bottoms, and a 12’ for the door casing.

When it comes to making these corners, I don’t have a super

They’ll fit under the soffit and simple method. Just hold them in place and mark the angles
on the outside like this. to the shed, cut them separately and then assemble them.
You’ll have the side angle that goes under the side roof trim,
and then a piece that is notched and sticks up under the soffit
on the front and back.

They should look like this. Don’t worry about making this
slight angle here, 90° is fine. It’s under the soffit and won’t be
seen.

Rounded

Square
Most all construction lumber has rounded edges. I put the rounded edge inwards on all trim pieces to soften
the look. On the door casing trim however I put the ripped square side out and the rounded edge towards the
inside of the door. It’s all preference, see what you like on yours!

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Door Assembly 1 The door is super simple. It’s ½” OSB for the center panel, a 2x4 frame on the inside for strength, and our deck boards on the outside for trim (and a bit of strength).
These are the sizes, but I’d fasten them to the OSB first, then use the The OSB for the door just needs a quick trim to take ½” off one side, and The outer trim goes on last and is the same deck boards we used earlier (or a 2x6),
pocket holes to screw them to each other. The pocket holes take a lot 16 ½” off the end. You want the door to be ½” smaller than your door ripped in half from a 12’ board. For these I put the factory rounded edge to the inside
of the twist at the joints out and really added strength. This is made from opening in height and width, this will leave us with ¼” reveal. of the door and square cut side out.
3 - 2x4x8 and a piece of scrap.

Top The cross brace is more to have something to

corner screw the OSB to in the middle of the door,
not really strength from sagging as the OSB
will prevent that. But for correct sake, it
should be angled from the bottom hinge up
to the opposite top corner. I added it from
scrap and can be whatever length, this
was just how mine ended up. Set the
board on the frame and just mark
your angles to cut.

Bottom
hinge

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 I recommend 4 pretty decent hinges as the door is heavy. To get even spacing on them just takes

Door assembly 2
From the front side, fasten all the frame boards with some 1 ½” long screws. I
a bit of math. I put mine in from the ends 8”, I just pulled that from thin air because it looked good.
Then measure the size of your hinges, mine are 4”. Measure the distance between the top and
bottom hinges, I have 55.5”, subtract the width of the 2 middle hinges (or how many you have).
Add on the trim to the front, you don’t need as many fasteners here, So we have 55.5 - 8 = 47.5, then divide that by 3 because we will have 3 spaces.
used 2 in the corners per board, 1 down the length in the middle, plus into the
but will switch to 2” long treated screws. I still added 2 per corner, If you have more hinges or different sizes the formula is the same.
cross brace. Once the OSB is on, go to the back and add all the pocket screws.
but I also put the top and bottom trim piece on with the screws at a You’ll want to attach these with long screws or drill holes and use
If you don’t have a jig, take a 3/8” drill bit, about 1” from the end of the board
45° angle just to tighten the joints up a bit. through bolts with lock washers and nuts on the inside for security.
drill down ¼”, then turn the drill sideways, while drilling push forward at a 45°
angle until the bit goes in a little but doesn’t go through the end.

Get it close, your eye will

never see a tiny amount

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 Odds and ends 1

By now you should have a pile of cutoffs from wall studs. This part isn’t exact, but you still
want them as close to 16” on center as you can because we need to add blocking up to the
rafter.

Grab your scraps, hold it in place above a wall stud and mark the top front and back edges
in reference to the rafter and cut them to length. Lightly tap with a hammer in place, there
should be slight pressure and then using a 3” fastener from the front, pushing it back into
place, lock them in.

These you’ll want to check on in your area.

They are commonly called hurricane ties and
are used to hold a roof to the wall framing.
They are optional for me, but always a good
idea because the blizzards here can be nuts,
so I added them on every second rafter.
Some places may require them on every one.
If you add one to one to the back side of a
rafter, you need to add one to the front as
well, one on each end. They are engineered
brackets and require all holes to be filled.
You’ll use either framing nails or structural
screws. Structural screws have the same
shear strength as nails. You can probably
also use rafter tie brackets, but again check
your area to see what they want.

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 Odds and ends 2

2”

To seal the door up and give it something to

If you are doing some form of siding, then ignore this
because it’s for a painted finish.
You’ll need to prep first. Clean the shed roughly if it
has leaves or cobwebs on it, just a broom is fine as
outdoor paint will cover and stick to pretty rough
surfaces.
close against, consider using more scrap
½” OSB ripped to 2” wide strips for
doorstop. Once you have them cut to size,
go inside the shed and have somebody
close the door until it’s flush outside, not
over or under closed. Have a flashlight on
hand and press the door stop strips into the
door lightly and screw them on. It should
seal tightly now with next to no light leak.

Caulk the shed where trim meets sheeting on the top

and bottom, don’t forget the front of the door. You’ll
also want to caulk the seams in between sheets on the
sides, back and front of the shed. I also caulked the
seam inside the door frame between the outside trim
and the OSB. Wipe it off with a finger lightly. You don’t
want to push it all off, you want it there just pushed
into the seams and smoothed out is all.

Once the caulk is dry, I’d recommend using a outdoor

primer to really seal it up for a long-lasting finish as
well as hide the wood grain. Then topcoat with 2 coats
of outdoor paint and have fun with the trim being a
different colour than the body, get creative. You’ll
To get the door reveals correct it honestly is easiest to use spacers. I used
want to use a 15-20mm nap roller to roll over this as
some scrap ¼” thick plywood cut into some strips. Place them evenly on the
the high pile is good for rough surfaces.
bottom and the striker side of the door. Set the door in place and push it
towards the spacers, this will give us ¼” reveal all the way around now, and our
½” door stop makes sure it’s sealed.

Screw or bolt on your hinges. Again, for security you may want to drill right
through the frame and use bolts, then on the inside lock washers with nuts.
Once the door is hung, open it up and check fitment, it’ll be stiff at first
because the spacers are still in place. Add your latch and a handle.

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 Storage Shed
All Done!

Aside from maybe some minor touches to make it yours, that’s it!

I hope you had fun building this like I did and that you’ll enjoy it for a long
time to come.

If you want, feel free to send me a email with pics and a story. Or tag me.
I’d love to share it with the community.
jessedoesdiy@gmail.com

Check out the full YouTube video as well for references if you need.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSz5m-
KXTSM8EiSh7njlvkurO7NOyTo-0

Links to certain products and materials are in the YouTube description.

Thanks so much for purchasing my plans, I hope you’ll check out more!

Storage Shed Plans 25