IMPORTANCE OF

QUALITY CONTROL IN
GARMENT INDUSTRY
Presentation By
Ms. Channa V S V B Deepthi
M. Sc, NET
Assistant Professor
 IMPORTANCE OF QUALITY
CONTROL IN GARMENT INDUSTRY
 There is considerable rationale for the quality control of goods
or services produced in the garment industry. Below are some of
the reasons;
◦ To achieve buyer or customer satisfaction: Quality
control is very important for any garment industry. This allows
the customer to purchase the product or service according to
their needs. Likewise, it is possible to achieve the satisfaction of
the buyer.
◦ To maintaining good relations among all in the textile
industry: Quality control creates a work environment in the
garment industry so that everyone working there is focused on
the perfection of their work. Training them from time to time,
setting a benchmark for measuring the quality of a product or
service, and checking to see if there is significant variation in
the quality of the product or service produced is all about
quality control. So it is very important.
◦ To ensure proper use of raw materials: The raw material of
the product has to be tested. The use of specified amount of raw
material should be ensured. If the amount of raw material is more
or less, the meaning also changes. As a result product quality and
change occurs.
◦ To reduce the rate of defects and increasing production:
When the defect is high, the production decreases and time and
money are wasted to correct the defects of low quality products.
In addition, due to low production, it is not possible to ship on
time. And as a result of providing such products, the customer
does not have confidence in the company. Such problems can be
overcome through quality control and the confidence of buyers
and consumers can be gained. So its role in the garment industry
is immense.
◦ Maintain the Reputation of the Company: Product quality
can be maintained through quality control. This maintains the
reputation of the company. Buyers are attracted to garments. As a
result the demand for the product increases and the company
gains more number of customers.
 In addition to the above important work, there are many
other benefits of quality control.Those are:
◦ Enthusiasm for work increases among all the employees of the
organization.
◦ As quality control is involved in the production process of the
product, a competition is created to release it at a relatively
low price while maintaining the right quality. As a result its
production cost is reduced.
◦ Consumer confidence in the product increases.
◦ Applying the results obtained by the textile testing as a means
of quality control, the quality of the garment industry is
maintained and efforts are made to increase it.
◦ Ethics is created among the employees.
◦ Product manufacturing methods are further improved.
◦ Product sales increase.
◦ Accurate and efficient use of logistics and resources of the
organization.
 FABRIC
DEFECTS
 FABRIC DEFECTS
 A Fabric Defect is any abnormality in the fabric that
hinders its acceptability by the consumer.

Fabric defects may lead to:

◦ Rejection of fabric.
◦ Reduce the price of fabric by 45%-65%.
◦ Go down the company image.
 IDENTIFICATION OF WOVEN &
PROCESSING DEFECTS
Various types of faults are found in woven fabrics have
mentioned below:
 Local distortion
 Coloured flecks
 Missing ends
 Knots
 Missing Pick
 Slub
 Oil and other stain
 Broken ends woven in a
 Oily ends
bunch
 Oily picks
 Broken pattern  Reed mark
 Double end  Slough off/Snarl
 Float  Shuttle smash
 Gout  Stitches
 Hole, cut, or tear  Untrimmed loose
threads
 Lashing-In
 Weft bar
 Coloured flecks: Presence of coloured foreign matter
in the yarn.

CAUSES MENDING
• Cotton fibers getting • Coloured portion is removed
contaminated during the ginning from the yarn with a plucker.
stage with leaves, immature The resultant patch can be
fibre, yellow fibre, etc. corrected by combing with
metallic comb.
 Knots : Broken threads are pieces stuck together by
improper knotting.

CAUSES MENDING
• Thread breaks during • Non mendable.
process of winding, warping,
sizing or weaving.
 Slub : Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no twist
and has a wider diameter compared to normal spun yarn.

CAUSES MENDING
• Improper • The slub should be cut with the clipper
carding/combing. from both the ends. The resultant patch can
be corrected by combing with a metallic
comb or by insertion of a separate thread
with the help of fine needle.
 Broken ends woven in a bunch : This defect is caused by
a bunch of broken ends woven into the fabric.

CAUSES MENDING
• Failure of the weaver in • The broken ends woven in a bunch
attending the warp can be removed by using a plucker and
breaks properly. the resulting loose ends should be cut
with clipper. As a result, a patch occurs
and combing in both directions with a
metallic comb can fill this up.
 Broken pattern : A broken pattern is the non
continuity of a weave/ design/ pattern.

CAUSES MENDING
• Wrong drawing in of threads. • Non mendable.
• Incorrect shedding.
 Double end : When two or more ends gets woven as
one. This defect is characterized by a thick bar running
parallel to the warp.

CAUSES MENDING
• Wrong drawing, • This fault can be corrected by pulling out
taking more ends in the extra end with the help of needle.
a single heald eye.
 Float : Float is the improper interlacement of warp and
weft threads over a certain area.

CAUSES MENDING
• Improper sizing (ends • Only minor floats can be
sticking). rectified. The floating threads are
• Broken end entangling cut with a clipper . Combing in
with the other ends. both direction rectifies the
resultant patch.
 Gout : Gout is a foreign matter accidently woven into
the fabric.

CAUSES MENDING
• Improper loom cleaning. • The extra foreign matter can
• Unclean loom be pulled out with a plucker.
environment. Combing in both direction
rectifies the resultant patch.
 Hole, Cut, Tear Hole, Cut or Tear : A fabric
imperfection in which one or several yarns are sufficiently
damaged to create an opening.

CAUSES MENDING
• Sharp edges on cloth roll. Non mendable.
• Hard substance between layers of fabric in
cloth roll.
• Course temples used for fine fabric.
 Lashing in : An extra piece of yarn woven into the
fabric in the vicinity of the selvedge.

CAUSES
• Defective setting of the
shuttle box.
• Early or late picking.
• In case of auto loom, weft
cutters worn out or not set
properly.
MENDING
• This defect can be corrected
by pulling out the extra pick
from the selvedge end, which
can be clipped with the help of
clipper. A bare patch is formed
and can be filled by combing in
both directions with the help of
metallic comb.
 Local distortion : A Distortion occurs when there is
displacement of warp and/or weft threads from their
normal position.

CAUSES MENDING
• The emery roll is worn out. • This defect can be corrected
• In filament fabric having low by combing in both directions
reed picks. using a metallic comb.
 Missing Ends : The fabric is characterised by a gap,
parallel to the warp. The number of ends missing may be
one or more.

CAUSES MENDING
• Loom not equipped with warp • When there are only two
stop motion. adjacent ends missing, the
• Accumulation of lint may prevent fault can be rectified by
their dropping. combing in both directions
using a metallic comb. This
may fill the patch formed due
to missing ends.
 Missing Picks : A narrow streak running parallel with
weft threads caused due to absence of weft.

CAUSES MENDING
• Faulty let-off and take-up • When there are only two
motion. adjacent picks missing, the fault
• Faulty weft-stop motion. can be rectified by combing in
both directions using a metallic
comb. This may fill up the patch
formed due to missing ends.
  Oil or Other Stain: These are spot defects of oil, rust,
grease or other stains found in the fabric.

CAUSES MENDING
• Improper • Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an
oiling/greasing absorbent pad.
of looms. • Apply the stain remover, and wet the stain and
• Oil stained the surrounding portion thoroughly.
on take up • Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the
roller. stain remover.
• Rubbing should be done towards the centre of
stain to avoid spreading.
  Oily Ends :These are oily warp ends.
CAUSES
• Improper handling and
storage of material in
spinning department.
• Oily hands during process
of warping.
• Improper handling of warp
beams.
MENDING
• Keep the stained portion of the
fabric over an absorbent pad.
• Apply the stain remover, and wet
the stain and the surrounding
portion thoroughly.
• Rub gently to quicken the
penetration of the stain remover.
• Rubbing should be done towards
the centre of stain to avoid
spreading.
  Oily weft : These are oily weft picks.
CAUSES
• Improper handling and storing in
spinning department.
• Weft package falling on oily
ground.
• Handling the weft with oily
hands.
• Weft carrying baskets having oil.
• Dropping of oil on weft package
during oiling of the winding
machine.
MENDING
• Keep the stained portion of the
fabric over an absorbent pad.
• Apply the stain remover, and wet
the stain and the surrounding
portion thoroughly.
• Rub gently to quicken the
penetration of the stain remover.
• Rubbing should be done towards
the centre of stain to avoid
spreading.
  Reed Marks : A warp way crack caused by a damaged
or defective reed.

CAUSES MENDING
• Defective or damaged reed. • Non mendable.
  Slough off/Snarl : A bunch of weft yarns are woven
into the fabric together.

CAUSES
• Improper winding of the
yarn onto the weft pirn.
• Improper shape and size of
the pirn.
• Harsh picking.
MENDING
• The bulk yarn can be pulled
out by means of plucker.
Combing in both direction with
help of metallic comb can fill up
the resultant patch.
  Shuttle smash : Ruptured cloth structure characterised
by many broken warp ends and floating picks.

CAUSES MENDING
• Improper timing. • Non mendable.
• Insufficient picking force.
• Slack ends in certain portion
obstructs the shuttle flight.
  Stitches:A Single thread float.
CAUSES
• Two adjacent ends sticking together
during shedding for a brief period of
time.
• In case of synthetic yarns, ends
sticking together due to static charge
during weaving.
MENDING
• Stitches are cut with a
clipper from both the
ends. Combing in both the
directions with the help of
a metallic comb may
rectify the resultant patch
formed.
  Untrimmed loose threads : Any hanging threads on
the face of the fabrics are termed as loose threads.

CAUSES MENDING
• Tail ends not trimmed after • These defects can be
piecing up. easily rectified with the
help of clipper.
  Weft bar : An unwanted bar, running across the full
width of a piece which differs in appearance from the
adjacent normal fabric.

CAUSES MENDING
• Difference in count, twist, colour, • Non mendable.
luster.
•Faulty let-off and take-up motion.
 FABRIC
INSPECTION
 DEFINITION
 Fabric Inspection is systematic observation of fabrics
to decide whether it meets: Client’s specification in
terms of count/construction, colour, design,
measurement specifications, hand/feel and other
specific quality parameters laid down by the clients.
(Or)
 Fabric inspection, also known as Visual examination
of raw materials or review of raw materials, partially
finished components of the garments. It also
examines the completely finished garments in
relation to specific standards and specifications.
 FABRIC INSPECTION
LOOP/CYCLE
INSPECTION

Fault detection

Rectification of
defect Inform to the
appropriate
person/Higher
officials

Identify the cause

of the defect
 BENEFITS OF FABRIC
INSPECTION
 The main objective of the inspection is the
detection of defects and non-conformance as early
as possible in the manufacturing process.
 Minimizing the time and money wastage by
correcting the defective raw materials.
 Fabrics supplied to customers meet their
specifications and standards; thereby they face less
customer returns and recalls.
 Fabric inspection ensures to minimize the
rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due
to fabric faults.
 Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not
only finished garment quality but also reduces
rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.
 GENERAL INSPECTION
PROCEDURE
 Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment
with enough ventilation and proper lighting.
 Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60˚
angles to inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool
White light fluorescent bulbs above viewing area.
 Back light can also be used as when needed.
 Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more
than 15 yards per minute.
 Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved
lots must be available prior to inspection (if possible).
 Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available
before starting inspection for assessing colour, fabric
construction, finish and visual appearance.
 Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation
between centre and selvage and the beginning, middle and
end of each roll must be evaluated and documented.
 Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against
standard approved weight.
 Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage
against standard.
 All defects must be flagged during inspection.
 The length of each roll inspected must be compared to
length as mentioned on supplier ticketed tag and any
deviation must be documented and reported to mill for
additional replacement to avoid shortage.
 If yarn dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the
repeat measurement must be done from beginning,
middle and end of selected rolls.
FABRIC INSPECTION SYSTEMS

 There are various fabric inspection systems.

Some commonly used inspection systems are:

 4- Point System
 10-Point System
 4 POINT SYSTEM
 The 4-Point System, also called the American
Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) point-grading
system for determining fabric quality which is widely
used by the producers of apparel fabrics.
 The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty
points according to the size and significance of the
defect.
 Not more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for
any single defect.
 Defect can be in either length or width direction,
the system remains the same.
 Only major defects are considered.
 No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.
 Whenever errors are recognized during fabric
inspection under 4 points system and defect must be
assigned a number of points depending on the
severity or length.
 In this system, one should inspect at least 10 % of
the total rolls in the shipment and make sure to
select at least one roll of each colour way.
 Fabric defects are assigned points based on the following:

Length of the defect Penalty Points

0 - 3″ 1 point

3″ - 6″ 2 points

6″ - 9″ 3 points

More than 9″ 4 points

 Hole point may be evaluated by size.

HOLES AND OPENINGS Penalty Points

1“ or less 2

Over 1“ 4
 In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by
unit points/100 yd2.

 According to the penalty points the fabric is graded.

Penalty points Grade
≥ 40 A
41 - 60 B
61 - 80 C
≤ 80 Reject
 Calculation of Total Penalty
Points In 4 POINT SYSTEM
 Ques.1: A fabric roll 120 yards long and 46 inch
wide contains following defects.,
DEFECTS

4 defects up to 3 inch length

3 defects from 3 to 6 inch length
2 defects from 6 to 9 inch length
1 defect over 9 inch length
1 hole over 1 inch

Calculate the total penalty points and assess

the acceptability level of the given fabric roll using
4-point system.
 Ans: Given,
Length of fabric roll = 120 Yards
Width of fabric roll = 46 inches

DEFECTS DEFECTS POINTS

4 defects up to 3 inch length 4x1 4
3 defects from 3 to 6 inch 3X2 6
length
2 defects from 6 to 9 inch 2X3 6
length
1 defect over 9 inch length 1X4 4
1 hole over 1 inch 1X4 4
Total defect points 24 Points
 We know that;

Total defect Points in roll x 36 x 100

Points/100 Yd2 = ---------------------------------------------------
length in yards x width in inches

24 x 36 x 100
Points/100Yd2 = -----------------------
120 x 46
= 15.65 /100Yd2
 The value of defect points for the given fabric is
15.65/100Yd2.
 So, the given fabric roll is acceptable and the fabric is
graded ‘A.’
 Calculation of Total Penalty
Points In 4 POINT SYSTEM
 Ques.2: A fabric roll 130 yards long and 1.25 yards
wide contains following defects.,
DEFECTS

6 defects up to 3 inch
5 defects over3 inch but less than 6 inch
2 defects over 6 inch but less than 9 inch
1 defect over 9 inch
1 hole over 1 inch dimension

Calculate the defective points/100 Yd2.

(Note: 1 Yard = 36 inches)

 Ans: Given,
Length of fabric roll = 130 Yards
Width of fabric roll = 1.25 Yards
= 1.25 x 36 = 46 inches

DEFECTS DEFECTS POINTS

6 defects up to 3 inch 6x1 6
5 defects over3 inch but less 5X2 10
than 6 inch
2 defects over 6 inch but less 2X3 6
than 9 inch
1 defect over 9 inch 1X4 4
1 hole over 1 inch dimension 1X4 4
Total defect points 30 Points
 We know that;

Total defect Points in roll x 36 x 100

Points/100 Yd2 = ---------------------------------------------------
length in yards x width in inches

30 x 36 x 100
Points/100Yd2 = -----------------------
130 x 45
= 18.46 defect points/100Yd2
 The value of defect points for the given fabric is
18.46/100Yd2.
 So, the defect is acceptable and the fabric is graded ‘A.’
 10 POINT SYSTEM
 Ten Point System evaluation was permitted in the year
1955 by Textile Distributors and National Federation of
Textiles.
 It is the earliest inspection system which is mostly used
for inspecting finished woven fabric in olden days.
 In 10 point system the fabric grading is designed to apply
to every defect according to size regardless of type.
 No one yard should be penalized more than 10 points.
 According to this system, the fabric roll is considered
good if the total penalty points, assessed to that roll, do
not exceed the length of the fabric.
 If the points exceed the length of fabric in a roll, then it is
considered as ‘seconds’ and may be rejected.
 First Quality: A piece of fabric is graded as first
quality if the total defect/penalty points does not
exceed the total yardage (i.e., length) of piece.
E.g.,100 yard piece got 70 penalty points.
 Second Quality: Fabric is considered second quality
it total penalty points exceed total yardage of fabric.
E.g.,100 yard piece got 120 penalty points.
 This system also have width limitations.
 The 10 Point-system assigns penalty points to each
defect as per following guidelines:
Warp defect Weft defect Penalty Points

Up to 1″ Up to 1″ 1 point

1″ - 5″ 1″ - 5″ 3 points

5″ - 10″ 5″ to half the width of the 5 points

fabric
10″ - 36″ Over half the width of the 10 points
fabric – Full width

 Any warp or weft defect occurring repeatedly

throughout the entire piece makes it “second quality.”
 10 Point system is bit complicated because the penalty
points are different for warp and weft defects.
Advantages
 Oldest and most used in woven finished fabric.
 In this system along the length of fabric warp
and weft defects are identified.

Disadvantages
 It has width limitation.
 It is difficult in practical use.
 Calculation of Total Penalty
Points In 10 POINT SYSTEM
 Ques.1: A fabric roll of 75 yards long and 46 inches
wide contains following defects.,

DEFECTS

7 defects over 1 inch but less than 5 inches in width

4 defects over 5 inches but less than 10 inches in length
2 defects up to 1 inch in length
4 defects over 5 inches and less than 18 inches in width
2 defects over 25 inches but less than 38 inches in width

Assess the quality grade of the given fabric roll.

 Ans: Given,
Length of fabric roll = 75 Yards
Width of fabric roll = 46 inches
DEFECTS DEFECTS POINTS
7 defects over 1 inch but less than 5 7x3 21
inches in width
4 defects over 5 inches but less than 4X3 12
10 inches in length
2 defects up to 1 inch in length 2X1 2
4 defects over 5 inches and less than 4X5 20
18 inches in width
2 defects over 25 inches but less than 2 X 10 20
38 inches in width
Total penalty points 75 Points

 The total penalty points in a given fabric roll is 75. Thus,

the given fabric roll may be rejected and quality is
assessed as “seconds/second quality.”
 Ques.2: A fabric roll 140 yards long and 3.5 yards
wide contains following defects.,

DEFECTS

2 defects over 10 inches but less than 36 inches in warp

1 defect over 5 inches in width but less than 45 inches
6 defects up to 1 inch in width
3 defects over 65 inches in weft
2 defects over 1 inch in length but less than 5 inches

Calculate the total defect points and assess the

quality of the given fabric roll.
 Ans: Given,
Length of fabric roll = 140 Yards
Width of fabric roll = 3.5 Yards
= 3.5 x 36 = 126 inches
DEFECTS DEFECTS POINTS
2 defects over 10 inches but less than 2 x 10 20
36 inches in warp
1 defect over 5 inches in width but 1X5 5
less than 45 inches
6 defects up to 1 inch in width 6X1 6
3 defects over 65 inches in weft 3 X 10 30
2 defects over 1 inch in length but 2X3 6
less than 5 inches
Total penalty points 67 Points

 The total penalty points in a given fabric roll is 67`. Thus,

the quality of the given fabric roll “First quality.”
 IN PROCESS QUALITY CONTROL
(IPQC) STANDARD SYSTEM
 IPQC refers to the quality control implemented in the
process from raw material production to product packaging
and storage; hence why it is called In-Process Quality
Control).
 IPQC includes the inspection of garment parts before they
are reassembled into a complete product and any defect
found in the garment parts is rectified and then they are
assembled into a complete product.
 In apparel manufacturing, this means inspection at various
points in the entire manufacturing process from spreading
fabric to pressing/finishing.
 The idea behind in process inspection is to inspect or check
the quality of component parts are done to manufacturing as
possible and thereby identify the source of quality problems
are early in the manufacturing process as possible.
 Thus In process quality control is designed to
uncover deficiencies in workmanship as well as
equipment malfunction.
 In process inspection can be performed by
either the quality control inspectors or
individual operators themselves after they
perform respective operations, but it is usual to
employ checking stations in between and the
quality control inspectors, check the parts at
these stations.
 They may check each operators sewn product at
random also.
 Also the quality checkers do checking at
checking stations each and every part done.
 This will result in minimising the need for later
repairs and rework.
 When each production operation performed
correctly makes for a smooth running plant with low
operating costs.
 Poor quality at any stage in production compounds
itself and can be expected to increase total cost.
 A well run in process quality control programme
will result in the following two advantages;
- Reduction of “seconds”
- Decrease in labour cost due to a decrease in
repair rates.
 IPQC, includes a 6-step process that involves:
◦ Staff's Handling Procedures: Checking whether the
operator wears proper work clothes, shoe covers, finger
cots when in contact with the PCBA and other sensitive
processes.
◦ Machinery and Tools Security Check: The security
operations of various machineries and tools have been
examined.
◦ Material Placement: Check whether the materials
(incoming materials, defective, QC-passed products, and
products yet to be confirmed) are placed separately and
easily identifiable.
◦ Check Tools Handling: Check whether the operator
works according to the requirements of the workflow and
whether the method the tools are used is correct.
◦ Testing Methodology: Check and confirm whether the
testing method is correct and whether the product passes
the test.
◦ Environment Control: Check and confirm whether the
workshop environment is safe, clean and tidy.
 AQL STANDARD
 The term AQL stands for Acceptable Quality Level or
Acceptance Quality Level.
 AQL is a statistical sampling which also known as acceptance
sampling.
 It is one of the most used standard in the garment industry.
 AQL refers to the maximum number of defective items that
could be considered to accept during the random sampling of
pre-shipment inspection.
 AQL value is expressed in terms of percentage, where the
average defective items is the results of the total number of
defective items found during the inspection and the total
number of items inspected.
Number of defective units x 100
% defective items = ____________________________
Number of units inspected
 This is usually the most practical and economical means
of determining the product quality.
 There are a total of six types of AQL system followed in
the garment manufacturing industry which are pointed
out below:
◦ AQL 1.0
◦ AQL 1.5
◦ AQL 2.5
◦ AQL 4.0
◦ AQL 6.5
◦ AQL 10
 However, the AQL standard used for inspection is also
dependent on the price and quality of the product, you
can see AQL standards such as AQL 1.0 used for higher
price garments, AQL standard such as AQL 6.5 & 10 for
lower quality and lower price garments.
THANK
YOU