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Contents
Maps xvii
Tables xix
Figures xxi
Preface xxiii
22 The Ordeal of Reconstruction 1865–1877 465
The defeated South • The freed slaves • President Andrew Johnson’s

Reconstruction policies • The Black Codes • Congressional Reconstruction
policies • Johnson clashes with Congress • Military Reconstruction, 1867–
1877 • Freed people enter politics • “Black Reconstruction” and the Ku Klux
Klan • The impeachment of Andrew Johnson • The legacy of Reconstruction
Chronology / Key Terms / People to Know / To Learn More 484–485
U E xamining the E vidence Letter from a Freedman to His Old
Master, 1865 468
Radical Republicans and Southern Democrats 473
Dallas Historical Society, Texas, USA /The Bridgeman Art Library
U C ontending V oices

U V arying V iewpoints How Radical Was Reconstruction? 483
Part Four
Forging an Industrial Society
1865–1909
486
23 Political Paralysis in the Gilded Age 1869–1896 488
Ulysses S. Grant, soldier-president • Corruption and reform in the post-Civil

War era • The depression of the 1870s • Political parties and partisans •
The Compromise of 1877 and the end of Reconstruction • The emergence of
Jim Crow • Class conflict and ethnic clashes • Grover Cleveland and the
Picture Research Consultants & Archives
tariff • Benjamin Harrison and the “Billion Dollar Congress” • The

Homestead Strike • The Populists • Depression and Dissent
U C ontending V oices The Spoils System 499
U M akers of A merica The Chinese 500
U V arying V iewpoints The Populists: Radicals or Reactionaries? 509
vii
viii • contents
24 Industry Comes of Age 1865–1900 512
The railroad boom • Speculators and financiers • Early efforts at government

regulation • The Rise of Mass Production • Lords of industry • The gospel
of wealth • Reining in the Trusts • Industry in the South • The laboring
classes • The rise of trade unions
Underwood Archives/Getty Images
U C ontending V oices Class and the Gilded Age 525
U E xamining the E vidence The Photography of Lewis W. Hine 531
U M akers of A merica The Knights of Labor 534
U V arying V iewpoints Industrialization: Boon or Blight? 537
25 America Moves to the City 1865–1900 539
The rise of the city • The “New Immigrants” • Settlement houses and social

workers • Nativists and immigration restriction • Churches in the city •
Evolution and education • Booker T. Washington and W. E. B. Du Bois •
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division [LC-DIG-pga-00755]
The growth of higher education • The reading public • The “New Woman”

and the new morality • Realism reshapes American literature, art, and
architecture • The commercialization of popular entertainment
U M akers of A merica The Italians 544
U E xamining the E vidence Manuscript Census Data, 1900 548
U C ontending V oices The New Immigration 551
U M akers of A merica Pioneering Pragmatists 560
26 The Great West and the Agricultural Revolution

1865–1896 574
The conquest of the Indians • The mining and cattle frontiers • Free lands

and fraud • The fading frontier • The industrialization of agriculture •
Farmers protest • The People’s party • Workers in revolt • Bryan versus
McKinley, 1896
U C ontending V oices The Ghost Dance and the Wounded Knee Massacre 580
U M akers of A merica The Plains Indians 582
Bettmann/Corbis
U E xamining the E vidence Robert Louis Stevenson’s Transcontinental Journey,

1879 590
U T hinking G lobally The Great Frontier 592
U V arying V iewpoints Was the West Really “Won”? 604
contents • ix
27 Empire and Expansion 1890–1909 607
The sources of American expansionism • The Hawaii question • The

Spanish-American War, 1898 • The invasion of Cuba • Acquiring Puerto
Rico (1898) and the Philippines (1899) • Crushing the Filipino insurrection
• The Open Door in China • Theodore Roosevelt becomes president, 1901 •
The Panama Canal • Roosevelt on the world stage
Bettmann/Corbis
U C ontending V oices Debating Imperialism 617
U M akers of A merica The Puerto Ricans 618
U M akers of A merica The Filipinos 624
U T hinking G lobally The Age of Empire 630
U V arying V iewpoints Why Did America Become a World Power? 633
Part Five
Struggling for Justice at Home and Abroad
1901–1945
636
28 Progressivism and the Republican Roosevelt 1901–1912 638
Campaigning against social injustice • The muckrakers • The politics of

progressivism • Women battle for reforms and against the saloon •
Roosevelt, labor, and the trusts • Consumer protection • Conservation •
Roosevelt’s legacy • The troubled presidency of William Howard Taft •
Museum of the City of New York. The Jacob A. Riis Collection
Taft’s “dollar diplomacy” • Roosevelt breaks with Taft • The election of

1912: The New Freedom versus the New Nationalism
U C ontending V oices Debating the Muckrakers 640
U T hinking G lobally “Why Is There No Socialism in the United States?” 642
U E xamining the E vidence Muller v. Oregon, 1908 648
U M akers of A merica The Environmentalists 652
U V arying V iewpoints Who Were the Progressives? 661
x • contents
29 Wilsonian Progressivism in Peace and War 1913–1920 663
Wilson the idealist • Tackling the tariff, the banks, and the trusts • Wilson’s
diplomacy in the Western Hemisphere • War in Europe and American
neutrality • The reelection of Wilson, 1916 • America goes to war, 1917 •
Wilsonian idealism and the Fourteen Points • Propaganda and civil liberties •
Workers, blacks, and women on the home front • The United States fights in
France • Peacemaking at Paris and the League of Nations • The Senate rejects
the Versailles Treaty
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division [LC-DIG-ppmsca-13492]
U C ontending V oices Battle of the Ballot 679

U E xamining the E vidence “Mademoiselle from Armentières” 683
U V arying V iewpoints Woodrow Wilson: Realist or Idealist? 689
30 American Life in the “Roaring Twenties” 1920–1929 692
The “red scare” • The KKK returns • Immigration restriction, 1921–1924 •

Prohibition and gangsterism • The Scopes trial • A mass-consumption
economy • The automobile age • Radio and the movies • Modernism
molds Jazz Age literature and culture • Economic boom and bust
Frank Driggs Collection/Hulton Archive/Getty Images

U M akers of A merica The Poles 698
U E xamining the E vidence The Jazz Singer, 1927 709
U C ontending V oices All That Jazz 710
U T hinking G lobally Modernism 714
contents • xi
31 The Politics of Boom and Bust 1920–1932 720
The Republicans return to power, 1921 • Disarmament and isolation • The

Harding scandals • Calvin Coolidge’s foreign policies • The international
debt snarl • Herbert Hoover, cautious progressive • The great crash, 1929 •
Hoover and the Great Depression • Aggression in Asia • “Good Neighbors”
in Latin America
Chronology / Key Terms / People to Know / To Learn More 741
U C ontending V oices Depression and Protection 732
Bettmann/Corbis
U E xamining the E vidence Lampooning Hoover, 1932 737
32 The Great Depression and the New Deal 1933–1939 742
Franklin D. Roosevelt as president • The Hundred Days Congress, 1933 •

Relief, recovery, and reform • Depression demagogues • Women in public
life • The National Recovery Administration • Aid for agriculture • The
dust bowl and the Tennessee Valley Authority • Housing and Social Security
• A new deal for labor • The election of 1936 • The Supreme Court fight,
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division [USF34-018227]
1937 • The New Deal assessed

U C ontending V oices The New Deal at High Tide 761
U V arying V iewpoints How Radical Was the New Deal? 766
33 Franklin D. Roosevelt and the Shadow of War 1933–1941 769
Roosevelt’s early foreign policies • German, Japanese, and Italian aggression

• The Neutrality Acts • The Spanish Civil War • Isolation and appeasement
• The horrors of the Holocaust • France falls and Britain totters • FDR’s
historic third term • The Lend-Lease Act and the Atlantic Charter, 1941 •
The Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, December 7, 1941
U C ontending V oices To Intervene or Not to Intervene 777
U E xamining the E vidence Public-Opinion Polling in the 1930s 778
Picture Research Consultants & Archives
xii • contents
34 America in World War II 1941–1945 789
The shock of war • The internment of Japanese Americans • Mobilizing the

economy • Women in wartime • The war’s effect on African Americans,
Native Americans, and Mexican Americans • The economic impact of war •
Turning the Japanese tide in the Pacific • Campaigns in North Africa (1942)
and Italy (1943) • “D-Day” in Normandy (France), June 6, 1944 • Germany
surrenders, May 1945 • The atomic bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki,
Library of Congress
August 1945 • V-J Day, August 15, 1945
U M akers of A merica The Japanese 792
U C ontending V oices War and the Color Line 797
U E xamining the E vidence Franklin Roosevelt at Tehran, 1943 808
U T hinking G lobally America and the World in Depression and War: A Study
in Contrasts 812
U V arying V iewpoints The Atomic Bombs: Were They Justified? 815
Part Six
Making Modern America
1945 to the Present
818
35 The Cold War Begins 1945–1952 820
Harry S. Truman as president • Origins of the Cold War • The United

Nations and the postwar world • Communism and containment • The
Truman Doctrine, the Marshall Plan, and NATO • Domestic anti-
communism and the menace of McCarthyism • The Korean War, 1950–1953
The Michael Barson Collection/Picture Research Consultants & Archives
• Domestic policy in the Truman years • Postwar prosperity • The

“Sunbelt” and the suburbs • The postwar baby boom
U C ontending V oices Debating the Cold War 827
U M akers of A merica Scientists and Engineers 832
U M akers of A merica The Suburbanites 844
U V arying V iewpoints Who Was to Blame for the Cold War? 847
contents • xiii
36 American Zenith 1952–1963 850
Affluent America • Working women and feminism • Consumer culture in the

1950s • The election of Dwight D. Eisenhower • Desegregation and the civil
rights revolution • Eisenhower Republicanism • Cold War crises • The
space race and the arms race • The election of John F. Kennedy, 1960
• Postwar writers, painters, and architects • Kennedy’s New Frontier •
“Flexible response” and the Vietnam quagmire • Bay of Pigs invasion and
the Cuban missile crisis • The struggle for civil rights • Kennedy
assassinated, November 22, 1963
Chronology / Key Terms / People to Know / To Learn 882–883
U E xamining the E vidence Advertising Prosperity, 1956 852
U M akers of A merica The Great African American Migration 860
Bettmann/CORBIS
U C ontending V oices The “Kitchen Debate” 867

U E xamining the E vidence The Shopping Mall as New Town Square, 1960 869
U M akers of A merica The Beat Generation 872
37 The Stormy Sixties 1963–1973 884
Lyndon Baines Johnson takes charge • Johnson versus Goldwater, 1964 •

The Great Society • The civil rights revolution explodes • The Vietnam
disaster • The election of Richard Nixon, 1968 • The cultural upheavals of
the 1960s • Nixon and the Vietnam War • New policies toward China and
the Soviet Union • Nixon on the home front • Nixon trounces McGovern,
1972 • Israelis, Arabs, and oil
MPI/Archive Photos/Getty Images
U C ontending V oices Differing Visions of Black Freedom 890

U T hinking G lobally The Global 1960s 896
U V arying V iewpoints The Sixties: Constructive or Destructive? 908
xiv • contents
38 Challenges to the Postwar Order 1973–1980 911
The Watergate scandal and Nixon’s resignation • The politics of stagflation

• Gerald Ford’s foreign policy • Feminism • Desegregation and affirmative
action • The election of Jimmy Carter, 1976 • The energy crisis and inflation
• The political turn toward the market • The Iranian hostage humiliation
U E xamining the E vidence The “Smoking Gun” Tape, June 23, 1972,
10:04–11:39 a.m. 913
U T hinking G lobally The Era of Globalization 916
U M akers of A merica The Vietnamese 920
U M akers of A merica The Feminists 922
U C ontending V oices The Political Mobilization of Business 929
Henri Bureau/Sygma/Corbis
39 The Resurgence of Conservatism 1980–1992 933
The “New Right” and Reagan’s election, 1980 • Budget battles and tax cuts •
Reagan and the Soviets • Mikhail Gorbachev, Ronald Reagan, and the thawing
of the Cold War • The Iran-Contra scandal • Reagan’s economic legacy •
The religious right • Conservatism and the courts • The election of George
Bush, 1988 • The end of the Cold War • The Persian Gulf War, 1991 •
Bush’s battles at home
U C ontending V oices Who Ended the Cold War? 950
U V arying V iewpoints Where Did Modern Conservatism Come From? 954
AP Photo
40 America Confronts the Post–Cold War Era 1992–2000 957
The election of Bill Clinton, 1992 • A false start for reform • The Republican
congressional takeover, 1994 • Clinton’s comeback, 1996 • Racial progress
and perils • Trade, technology, and the 1990s boom • The feminist
revolution • Post-Cold War foreign policy • The Clinton impeachment trial
• The controversial 2000 election • Postmodern culture at the turn of the
© Wally McNamee/Sygma/Corbis
century
Chronology / Key Terms / People to Know / To Learn More 978
U M akers of A merica The Latinos 962
U C ontending V oices Welfare Reform Divides the Democrats 964
contents • xv
41 The American People Face a New Century 2001–2014 979
George W. Bush as president • The terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001 •

Wars in Iraq and Afghanistan • Bush’s bruising second term • Grappling
with the Great Recession • The election of Barack Obama, 2008 • Reform
and backlash • New directions in foreign policy • The politics of inequality
• A polarized republic • Surveillance and privacy in the Internet age • The
American prospect
John Zich/zrImages/Corbis
U E xamining the E vidence The National Security Strategy, 2002 983
U T hinking G lobally America Through Foreign Eyes: Hyperpower or Hapless
Power? 990
U C ontending V oices Populist Politics in a Polarized Age 997
A ppendix
Documents A1
Declaration of Independence • Constitution of the United States of America
Tables A21
Presidential Elections • Presidents and Vice Presidents • Admission of States
• Estimates of Total Costs and Number of Battle Deaths of Major U.S. Wars
Glossary of Key Terms A27
Index I1
MAPS
22.1 Military Reconstruction, 1867 (five districts and commanding generals) 476
22.2 Alaska and the Lower Forty-Eight States (a size comparison) 482
23.1 Hayes-Tilden Disputed Election of 1876 (with electoral vote by state) 494
23.2 A Southern Plantation, Before and After the Civil War 496
23.3 Presidential Election of 1892 (showing vote by county) 506
24.1 Federal Land Grants to Railroads 514
24.2 American Industry in 1900 529
25.1 Size of World Cities 1850–1900 540
25.2 Woman Suffrage Before the Nineteenth Amendment 564
26.1 Indian Wars, 1860–1890 577
26.2 Vanishing Lands 581
26.3 Cattle Trails 585
26.4 Average Annual Precipitation, with Major Agricultural Products, 1900 587
26.5 Myth and Reality in the West: Percentage of Federal Lands Within Each State, 2004 588
26.6 Presidential Election of 1896 (with electoral vote by state) 602
27.1 United States Expansion, 1857–1917 611
27.2 Dewey’s Route in the Philippines, 1898 613
27.3 The Cuban Campaign, 1898 615
27.4 The Great Powers and Their Colonial Possessions, 1913 631
28.1 Presidential Election of 1912 (showing votes by county, with electoral vote by state) 660
29.1 The United States in the Caribbean, 1898–1941 667
29.2 British Military Area (declared November 3, 1914) and German Submarine War Zone (declared
February 4, 1915) 670
29.4 Major U.S. Operations in France, 1918 682
31.1 Presidential Election of 1924 (showing popular vote by county) 728
32.1 The Extent of Erosion in the 1930s 756
32.2 TVA Area 757
33.2 Main Flow of Lend-Lease Aid (width of arrows indicates relative amount) 783
34.1 Internal Migration in the United States During World War II 796
34.2 Corregidor and Bataan 800
34.3 United States Thrusts in the Pacific, 1942–1945 801
34.4 World War II in Europe and North Africa, 1939–1945 805
34.5 Battle of the Bulge, December 1944–January 1945 807
35.1 Postwar Partition of Germany 825
35.2 United States Foreign Aid, Military and Economic, 1945–1954 828
35.3 The Shifting Front in Korea 834
35.4 Distribution of Population Increase, 1950–2013 843
xvii
xviii • maps
36.3 Vietnam and Southeast Asia, 1954–1975 878

37.1 Presidential Election of 1964 886
39.2 The Middle East 939
39.3 Central America and the Caribbean 940
39.4 The End of the Cold War Changed the Map of Europe 949
39.5 Operation Desert Storm: The Ground War, February 23–27, 1991 951
41.1 Iraq in Transition 985
41.2 Presidential Election of 2008 993
41.3 Demography Is (Political) Destiny 995
41.4 America in Red and Blue 1001
TABLES
22.2 Southern Reconstruction by State 477
23.1 Composition of the Electoral Commission, 1877 494
23.2 Persons in United States Lynched (by race), 1882–2012 497
23.3 Population of Chinese Ancestry in the United States, 1850–2010 501
25.1 Educational Levels, 1870–2011 556
25.2 Marriages and Divorces, 1890–2011 562
29.1 Principal Foreign Elements in the United States, Census of 1910 669
29.2 U.S. Exports to Belligerents, 1914–1916 670
29.3 A Chronology of Women’s Right to Vote in National Elections in Selected Nations 680
32.1 Principal New Deal Acts During the Hundred Days Congress, 1933 (items in parentheses indicate
secondary purposes) 746
32.2 Later Major New Deal Measures, 1933–1939 (items in parentheses indicate secondary purposes) 749
34.1 The Comparative Costs of World War II 813
36.1 Occupational Distribution of Workingwomen, 1900–2010 851
38.1 International Trade, 1948–2012 917
40.1 Working Women: Labor Force Participation Rates for Wives and Mothers, 1950–2011 970
41.1 World Public Opinion of the United States 991
41.2 Widening Income Inequality 998
41.3 Who Pays Federal Income Taxes? (share of U.S. income tax, by income percentile) 1000
Table A.1 Presidential Elections A21
Table A.2 Presidents and Vice Presidents A24
Table A.3 Admission of States A26
Table A.4 Estimates of Total Costs and Number of Battle Deaths of Major U.S. Wars A26
xix
figures
23.1 Civil-Service Employment 499
24.1 Railroads Worldwide, 1889 513
24.2 Cotton Manufacturing Moves South, 1880–1980 527
24.3 World Cotton Production, 1903 528
25.1 The Shift to the American City 540
25.2 Dumbbell Tenement 542
25.3 Annual Immigration, 1860–2010 543
25.4 Old and New Immigration (by decade, 1871–1920) 543
26.1 Homesteads from the Public Lands (acreage legally transferred to private ownership) 586
29.1 Organization of Holding Companies 665
29.2 Approximate Comparative Losses in World War I 684
30.1 Annual Immigration and the Quota Laws 696
30.2 The Cost of a Model T Ford, 1908–1924 704
30.3 International Comparison of Number of Automobiles 704
31.1 Limits Imposed by Washington Conference, 1921–1922 723
31.2 Aspects of the Financial Merry-go-round, 1921–1933 729
31.3 Index of Common Stock Prices
(1926 = 100) 733
32.1 Bank Failures Before and After the Glass-Steagall Banking Reform Act of 1933 747
32.2 Occupied Households with Electric Service, 1900–1960 758
32.3 Labor Union Membership in Selected Countries, 1913–2012 760
32.4 Economic Impact of the Great Depression on the United States, the United Kingdom, and Germany,
1929–1940 763
34.1 The National Debt, 1930–1950 799
35.1 Demographic Profile of Women, Minorities, and the Foreign-Born in Nonacademic Science and
Engineering Occupations, 1980–2010 833
35.2 National Defense Budget, 1940–2014 841
36.1 Women in the Labor Force, 1900–2012 853
36.2 Households with Television Sets, 1946–1960 853
37.1 Poverty in the United States, 1960–2012 888
38.1 Median Household Income, 1970–2012 914
38.2 The History of the Consumer Price Index, 1967–2013 928
39.1 The National Debt, 1930–2013 943
39.2 Share of Income Received by Families, by Quintile, 1980–2012 944
40.1 Recent Legal Immigration by Area of Origin, 1961–2012 961
40.2 Sources of Latino Population in the United States, 2012 963
xxi
xxii • figures
40.3 Percent of Total Population Living in Metropolitan Areas and in Their Central Cities and Suburbs,
1910–2010 965
40.4 Women in the Work Force Globally, 2011 968
41.1 Deficits into Surpluses and Back Again 980
41.2 Ethnic and Religious Groups in Iraq, by Percent of Total Population (ca. 32,500,000)
in 2014 985
41.3 The Great Recession Takes Hold 992
41.4 How the United States Measures Up 1000
41.5 Government Expenditures for Social Welfare, 1930–2013 1003
Preface
T his sixteenth edition of The American Pageant reflects
our continuing collaboration to bring the most recent
that presents paired quotes from the past to encourage
critical thinking about controversial issues. Still more
scholarship about American history to the broadest highlighted quotes throughout the text help students
possible student audience, while preserving the read- hear the language of real people who shaped and expe-
ability that has long been the Pageant’s hallmark. We rienced historical events. In addition, “Examining the
are often told that the Pageant stands out as the only Evidence” features enable students to deepen their
American history text with a distinctive personality, understanding of the historical craft by conveying
an observation that brings us considerable satisfaction. how historians develop interpretations of the past
We define the Pageant’s leading characteristics as clar- through research in many different kinds of primary
ity, concreteness, a strong emphasis on major themes, sources. Here students learn to probe a wide range of
integration of a broad range of historical topics into a historical documents and artifacts: correspondence
coherent and clutter-free narrative, attention to a vari- between Abigail and John Adams in 1776, and what
ety of interpretive perspectives, and a colorful writing it reveals about women’s place in the American Revo-
style leavened, as appropriate, with wit. That personal- lution; the Gettysburg Address and the light it sheds
ity, we strongly believe, is what has made the Pageant not only on President Lincoln’s brilliant oratory but
both appealing and useful to countless students for also on his vision of the American nation; a letter
more than six decades. from a black freedman to his former master in 1865
Our collaboration on the Pageant reflects our that illuminates his family’s experience in slavery as
respective scholarly interests, which are complemen- well as their hopes for a new life; the manuscript cen-
tary to a remarkable degree. While we share broad inter- sus of 1900 and what it teaches us about immigrant
ests in the evolving character of American society and households on the Lower East Side of New York at the
in its global role, David Kennedy is primarily a politi- dawn of the twentieth century; a new kind of archi-
cal and economic historian, while Lizabeth Cohen’s tectural structure—the shopping mall—and how it
work emphasizes social and cultural history. Together, changed both consumers’ behavior and politicians’
we have once again revised the Pageant chapter by campaign tactics after World War II; and a national
chapter, even paragraph by paragraph, guided by our security document that gives insight into the foreign
shared commitment to tell the story of the A merican policy-making process.
past as vividly and clearly as possible, without sacrific- The Pageant’s goal is not to teach the art of proph-
ing a sense of the often sobering seriousness of history ecy but the much subtler and more difficult arts of see-
and of its sometimes challenging complexity. ing things in context, of understanding the roots and
direction and pace of change, and of distinguishing
what is truly new under the sun from what is not. The
Goals of The American Pageant study of history, it has been rightly said, does not make
one smart for the next time, but wise forever.
Like its predecessors, this edition of The American We hope that the Pageant will help to develop the
Pageant seeks to cultivate in its readers the critical art of critical thinking in its readers and that those who
thinking skills necessary for balanced judgment and use the book will take from it both a fresh appreciation
informed understanding about American society by of what has gone before and a seasoned perspective on
holding up to the present the mirror and measuring what is to come. We hope, too, that readers will take as
rod that is the past. The division of the book into much pleasure in reading The American Pageant as we
six parts, each with an introductory essay, encourages have had in writing it.
students to understand that the study of history is not
just a matter of piling up mountains of facts but is
principally concerned with discovering complex pat- Changes in the Sixteenth Edition
terns of change over time and organizing seemingly
disparate events, actions, and ideas into meaningful As in past revisions, we have updated and streamlined
chains of cause and consequence. the entire text narrative, while our main focus in this
A strong narrative propels the story, reinforced in new edition is a major revision of Part Six, comprising
this edition by a new feature, “Contending Voices,” the seven chapters covering 1945 to the present.
xxiii
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joins its companion pieces that are floating quietly past our stern to
the north,—a mysterious, silent procession of soft, white spirits, each
perfectly reflected in the lavender sea.
Nature sleeps—breathlessly—silent; perhaps she dreams of the
spirit-world, that seems to draw so close to her on such a night.
By midnight the tired crew were all below and sound asleep in their
stuffy bunks. But the doctor and I found it impossible to leave the
quiet decks and the mysterious daylight, so we prowled about and
brewed coffee in the deserted galley. Then we watched the sun pass
behind the grey bergs in the south for a few seconds, and appear
again, refreshed, with a cool silvery light. A few flakes of snow
floated in the clear, cold air, and two snowy petrels, white as the
snow itself, flitted along the ice-edge.
A cold, dreamy, white Christmas morning,—beautiful beyond
expression.
From Edinburgh to the Antarctic—An Artist’s Notes and
Sketches during the Dundee Antarctic Expedition of 1892-
3 (London, 1894).
THE DESERT OF SAHARA
(AFRICA)
EUGENE FROMENTIN
The Saharans adore their country,[1] and, for my part, I should come
very near justifying a sentiment so impassioned, especially when it is
mingled with the attachment to one’s native soil.... It is a land without
grace or softness, but it is severe, which is not an evil though its first
effect is to make one serious—an effect that many people confound
with weariness. A great land of hills expiring in a still greater flat land
bathed in eternal light; empty and desolate enough, to give the idea
of that surprising thing called the desert; with a sky almost always
the same, silence, and on all sides a tranquil horizon. In the centre a
kind of lost city, surrounded by solitude; then a little verdure, sandy
islets, and, lastly, a few reefs of whitish calcareous stone or black
schists on the margin of an expanse that resembles the sea;—in all
this, but little variety, few accidents, few novelties, unless it be the
sun that rises over the desert and sinks behind the hills, ever calm,
rayless but devouring; or perhaps the banks of sand that have
changed their place and form under the last wind from the South.
Brief dawns, longer noons that are heavier than elsewhere, and
scarcely any twilight; sometimes a sudden expansion of light and
warmth with burning winds that momentarily give the landscape a
menacing physiognomy and that may then produce crushing
sensations; but more usually a radiant immobility, the somewhat
mournful fixity of fine weather, in short, a kind of impassibility that
seems to have fallen from the sky upon lifeless things and from them
to have passed into human faces.
The first impression received from this ardent and inanimate picture,
composed of sun, expanse, and solitude, is acute and cannot be
compared with any other. However, little by little, the eye grows
accustomed to the grandeur of the lines, the emptiness of the space,
and the nakedness of the earth, and if one is still astonished at
anything, it is at still remaining sensible to such slightly changing
effects and at being so deeply stirred by what are in reality the most
simple sights.
Here the sky is clear, arid, and unchanging; it comes in contact with
fawn-coloured or white ground, and maintains a frank blue in its
utmost extent; and when it puts on gold opposite the setting sun its
base is violet and almost leaden-hued. I have not seen any beautiful
mirages. Except during the sirocco, the horizon is always distinctly
visible and detached from the sky; there is only a final streak of ash-
blue which is vigorously defined in the morning, but in the middle of
the day is somewhat confounded with the sky and seems to tremble
in the fluidity of the atmosphere. Directly to the South, a great way
off towards M’zab, an irregular line formed by groves of tamarinds is
visible. A faint mirage, that is produced every day in this part of the
desert, makes these groves appear nearer and larger; but the
illusion is not very striking and one needs to be told in order to notice
it.
Shortly after sunrise the whole country is rosy, a vivid rose, with
depths of peach colour; the town is spotted with points of shadow,
and some little white argils, scattered along the edge of the palms,
gleam gaily enough in this mournful landscape which for a short
moment of freshness seems to smile at the rising sun. In the air are
vague sounds and a suggestion of singing that makes us understand
that every country in the world has its joyous awakening.
Then, almost at the same moment every day, from the south we hear
the approach of innumerable twitterings of birds. They are the
gangas coming from the desert to drink at the springs.... It is then
half-past six. One hour later and the same cries suddenly arise in the
north; the same flocks pass over my head one by one, in the same
numbers and order, and regain their desert plains. One might say
that the morning is ended; and the sole smiling hour of the day has
passed between the going and returning of the gangas. The
landscape that was rose has already become dun; the town has far
fewer little shadows; it greys as the sun gets higher; in proportion as
it shines brighter the desert seems to darken; the hills alone remain
rosy. If there was any wind it dies away; warm exhalations begin to
spread in the air as if they were from the sands. Two hours later all
movement ceases at once, and noontide commences.
The sun mounts and is finally directly over my head. I have only the
narrow shelter of my parasol and there I gather myself together; my
feet rest in the sand or on glittering stones; my pad curls up beside
me under the sun; my box of colours crackles like burning wood. Not
a sound is heard now. There are four hours of incredible calm and
stupor. The town sleeps below me then dumb and looking like a
mass of violet with its empty terraces upon which the sun illumines a
multitude of screens full of little rose apricots, exposed there to dry;
—here and there a black hole marks a window, or an interior door,
and fine lines of dark violet show that there are only one or two strips
of shadow in the whole town. A fillet of stronger light that edges the
contour of the terraces helps us to distinguish these mud edifices
from one another, piled as they are rather than built upon their three
hills.
On all sides of the town extends the oasis, also dumb and slumbrous
under the heavy heat of the day. It looks quite small and presses
close against the two flanks of the town with an air of wanting to
defend it at need rather than to entice it. I can see the whole of it: it
resembles two squares of leaves enveloped by a long wall like a
park, roughly drawn upon the sterile plain. Although divided by
compartments into a multitude of little orchards, also all enclosed
within walls, seen from this height it looks like a green tablecloth; no
tree is distinguishable, two stages of forest only can be remarked:
the first, round-headed clumps; the second, clusters of palms. At
intervals some meagre patches of barley, only the stubble of which
now remains, form shorn spaces of brilliant yellow amid the foliage;
elsewhere in rare glades a dry, powdery, and ash-coloured ground
shows. Finally, on the south side, a few mounds of sand, heaped by
the wind, have passed over the surrounding wall; it is the desert
trying to invade the gardens. The trees do not move; in the forest
thickets we divine certain sombre gaps in which birds may be
supposed to be hidden, sleeping until their second awakening in the
evening.
This is also the hour when the desert is transformed into an obscure
plain. The sun, suspended over its centre, inscribes upon it a circle
of light the equal rays of which fall full upon it in all ways and
everywhere at the same time. There is no longer any clearness or
shadow; the perspective indicated by the fleeting colours almost
ceases to measure distances; everything is covered with a brown
tone, continuous without streaks or mixture; there are fifteen or
twenty leagues of country as uniform and flat as a flooring. It seems
that the most minute salient object should be visible upon it, and yet
the eye discerns nothing there; one could not even say now where
there is sand, earth, or stony places, and the immobility of this solid
sea then becomes more striking than ever. On seeing it start at our
feet and then stretch away and sink towards the South, the East, and
the West without any traced route or inflexion, we ask ourselves
what may be this silent land clothed in a doubtful tone that seems
the colour of the void; whence no one comes, whither no one goes,
and which ends in so straight and clear a strip against the sky;—we
do not know; we feel that it does not end there and that it is, so to
speak, only the entrance to the high sea.
Then add to all these reveries the fame of the names we have seen
upon the map, of places that we know to be there, in such or such
direction, at five, ten, twenty, fifty days’ march, some known, others
only indicated and yet others more and more obscure.... Then the
negro country, the edge of which we only know; two or three names
of towns with a capital for a kingdom; lakes, forests, a great sea on
the left, perhaps great rivers, extraordinary inclemencies under the
equator, strange products, monstrous animals, hairy sheep,
elephants, and what then? Nothing more distinct; unknown
distances, an uncertainty, an enigma. Before me I have the
beginning of this enigma and the spectacle is strange beneath this
clear noonday sun. Here is where I should like to see the Egyptian
Sphinx.
THE DESERT OF SAHARA.
It is vain to gaze around, far or near; no moving thing can be
distinguished. Sometimes by chance, a little convoy of laden camels
appears, like a row of blackish points, slowly mounting the sandy
slopes; we only perceive them when they reach the foot of the hills.
They are travellers; who are they? whence come they? Without our
perceiving them, they have crossed the whole horizon beneath our
eyes. Or perhaps it is a spout of sand which suddenly detaches itself
from the surface like a fine smoke, rises into a spiral, traverses a
certain space bending under the wind and then evaporates after a
few seconds.
The day passes slowly; it ends as it began with half rednesses, an
amber sky, depths assuming colour, long oblique flames which will
empurple the mountains, the sands and the eastern rocks in their
turn; shadows take possession of that side of the land that has been
fatigued by the heat during the first half of the day; everything seems
to be somewhat comforted. The sparrows and turtle-doves begin to
sing among the palms; there is a movement as of resurrection in the
town; people show themselves on the terraces and come to shake
the sieves; the voices of animals are heard in the squares, horses
neighing as they are taken to water and camels bellowing; the desert
looks like a plate of gold; the sun sinks over the violet mountains and
the night makes ready to fall.
Un Été dans le Sahara (Paris, 1857).
FOOTNOTE:
[1] The word Sahara does not necessarily convey the idea of a
desert immensity. Inhabited at certain points, it is called Fiafi;
habitable at certain others, it takes the name of Kifar, a word
whose signification is the same as that of the common word
Khela, abandoned; habitable and inhabited at yet other points, it
is called Falat.
These three words represent each of the characteristics of the
Sahara.
Fiafi is the oasis where life retires, about the fountains and wells,
under the palms and fruit trees, sheltered from the sun and choub
(simoon).
Kifar is the sandy and void plain, which, however, when fertilized
for a moment by the winter rains, is covered with grass (a’ cheb)
in the spring; and the nomadic tribes that ordinarily camp around
the oases go thither to pasture their flocks.
Falat, finally, is the sterile and bare immensity, the sea of sand,
whose eternal billows, to-day agitated by the choub, to-morrow
will lie in motionless heaps;—the sea that is slowly ploughed by
those fleets called caravans.—General Daumas, Le Sahara
Algérien.
FINGAL’S CAVE
(SCOTLAND)
SIR WALTER SCOTT
July 19, 1810.
Yesterday we visited Staffa and Iona: the former is one of the most
extraordinary places I ever beheld. It exceeded, in my mind, every
description I had heard of it; or rather, the appearance of the cavern,
composed entirely of basaltic pillars as high as the roof of a
cathedral,[2] and the running deep into the rock, eternally swept by a
deep and swelling sea, and paved as it were with ruddy marble,
baffles all description. You can walk along the broken pillars, with
some difficulty, and in some places with a little danger, as far as the
farthest extremity. Boats also can come in below when the sea is
placid,—which is seldom the case. I had become a sort of favourite
with the Hebridean boatmen, I suppose from my anxiety about their
old customs, and they were much pleased to see me get over the
obstacles which stopped some of the party. So they took the whim of
solemnly christening a great stone at the mouth of the cavern,
Clachan-an Bairdh, or the Poet’s Stone. It was consecrated with a
pibroch, which the echoes rendered tremendous, and a glass of
whisky, not poured forth in the ancient mode of libation, but turned
over the throats of the assistants. The head boatman, whose father
had been himself a bard, made me a speech on the occasion; but as
it was in Gaelic, I could only receive it as a silly beauty does a fine-
spun compliment—bow, and say nothing.
When this fun was over (in which, strange as it may seem, the men
were quite serious), we went to Iona, where there are some ancient
and curious monuments. From this remote island the light of
Christianity shone forth on Scotland and Ireland. The ruins are of a
rude architecture, but curious to the antiquary. Our return was less
comfortable; we had to row twenty miles against an Atlantic tide and
some wind, besides the pleasure of seeing occasional squalls
gathering to windward. The ladies were sick, especially poor Hannah
Mackenzie, and none of the gentlemen escaped except Staffa and
myself. The men, however, cheered by the pipes, and by their own
interesting boat-songs, which were uncommonly wild and beautiful,
one man leading and the others answering in chorus, kept pulling
away without apparently the least sense of fatigue, and we reached
Ulva at ten at night, tolerably wet, and well disposed for bed.
The haze and dullness of the atmosphere seem to render it dubious
if we can proceed, as we intended, to Staffa to-day—for mist among
these islands is rather unpleasant. Erskine reads prayers on deck to
all hands, and introduces a very apt allusion to our being now in
sight of the first Christian Church from which Revelation was diffused
over Scotland and all its islands. There is a very good form of prayer
for the Lighthouse Service composed by the Rev. Mr. Brunton. A
pleasure vessel lies under our lee from Belfast, with an Irish party
related to Macneil of Colonsay. The haze is fast degenerating into
downright rain, and that right heavy—verifying the words of Collins—
“And thither where beneath the showery west

The mighty Kings of three fair realms are laid.”[3]
After dinner, the weather being somewhat cleared, sailed for Staffa,
and took boat. The surf running heavy up between the island and the
adjacent rock, called Booshala, we landed at a creek near the
Cormorant’s cave. The mist now returned so thick as to hide all view
of Iona, which was our landmark; and although Duff, Stevenson, and
I, had been formerly on the isle, we could not agree upon the proper
road to the cave. I engaged myself, with Duff and Erskine, in a
clamber of great toil and danger, and which at length brought me to
the Cannon-ball, as they call a round granite stone moved by the sea
up and down in a groove of rock, which it has worn for itself, with a
noise resembling thunder. Here I gave up my research, and returned
to my companions, who had not been more fortunate. As night was
now falling, we resolved to go aboard and postpone the adventure of
the enchanted cavern until next day. The yacht came to an anchor
with the purpose of remaining off the island all night, but the
hardness of the ground, and the weather becoming squally, obliged
us to return to our safer mooring at Y-Columb-Kill.
FINGAL’S CAVE.
29th August, 1814.

Night squally and rainy—morning ditto—we weigh, however, and
return towards Staffa, and, very happily, the day clears as we
approach the isle. As we ascertained the situation of the cave, I shall
only make this memorandum, that when the weather will serve, the
best landing is to the lee of Booshala, a little conical islet or rock,
composed of basaltic columns placed in an oblique or sloping
position. In this way, you land at once on the flat causeway, formed
by the heads of truncated pillars, which leads to the cave. But if the
state of tide renders it impossible to land under Booshala, then take
one of the adjacent creeks; in which case, keeping to the left hand
along the top of the ledge of rocks which girdles in the isle, you find a
dangerous and precipitous descent to the causeway aforesaid, from
the table. Here we were under the necessity of towing our
Commodore, Hamilton, whose gallant heart never fails him,
whatever the tenderness of his toes may do. He was successfully
lowered by a rope down the precipice, and proceeding along the flat
terrace or causeway already mentioned, we reached the celebrated
cave. I am not sure whether I was not more affected by this second,
than by the first view of it. The stupendous columnar side walls—the
depth and strength of the ocean with which the cavern is filled—the
variety of tints formed by stalactites dropping and petrifying between
the pillars, and resembling a sort of chasing of yellow or cream-
coloured marble filling the interstices of the roof—the corresponding
variety below, where the ocean rolls over a red, and in some places
a violet-coloured rock, the basis of the basaltic pillars—the dreadful
noise of those august billows so well corresponding with the
grandeur of the scene—are all circumstances elsewhere
unparalleled. We have now seen in our voyage the three grandest
caverns in Scotland,—Smowe, Macallister’s Cave, and Staffa; so
that, like the Troglodytes of yore, we may be supposed to know
something of the matter. It is, however, impossible to compare
scenes of natures so different, nor, were I compelled to assign a
preference to any of the three, could I do it but with reference to their
distinct characters, which might affect different individuals in different
degrees. The characteristic of the Smowe cave may in this case be
called the terrific, for the difficulties which oppose the stranger are of
a nature so uncommonly wild, as, for the first time at least, to convey
an impression of terror—with which the scenes to which he is
introduced fully correspond. On the other hand the dazzling
whiteness of the incrustations in Macallister’s Cave, the elegance of
the entablature, the beauty of its limpid pool, and the graceful dignity
of its arch, render its leading features those of severe and chastened
beauty. Staffa, the third of these subterranean wonders, may
challenge sublimity as its principal characteristic. Without the savage
gloom of the Smowe cave, and investigated with more apparent
ease, though, perhaps, with equal real danger, the stately regularity
of its columns forms a contrast to the grotesque imagery of
Macallister’s Cave, combining at once the sentiments of grandeur
and beauty. The former is, however, predominant, as it must
necessarily be in any scene of the kind.
We had scarce left Staffa when the wind and rain returned.
Lockhart, Life of Sir Walter Scott (Edinburgh, 1878).
FOOTNOTES:
[2]
“——that wondrous dome,

Where, as to shame the temples deck’d
By skill of earthly architect,
Nature herself, it seem’d, would raise,
A minster to her Maker’s praise!
Not for a meaner use ascend
Her columns, or her arches bend;
Nor of a theme less solemn tells
That mighty surge that ebbs and swells,
And still, beneath each awful pause
From the high vault an answer draws,
In varied tone prolonged and high
That mocks the organ’s melody.
Nor doth its entrance front in vain
To old Iona’s holy fane,
That Nature’s voice might seem to say,
‘Well hast thou done, frail Child of clay!
Thy humble powers that stately shrine
Task’d high and hard—but witness mine!’”
Lord of the Isles. Canto IV. St. 10.

[3] Ode on the Superstitions of the Highlands.
FINGAL’S CAVE
(SCOTLAND)
JOHN KEATS
I am puzzled how to give you an Idea of Staffa. It can only be
represented by a first-rate drawing. One may compare the surface of
the Island to a roof—this roof is supported by grand pillars of basalt
standing together as thick as honeycombs. The finest thing is
Fingal’s Cave—it is entirely a hollowing out of Basalt Pillars.
Suppose now the Giants who rebelled against Jove had taken a
whole Mass of black Columns and bound them together like bunches
of matches—and then with immense axes had made a cavern in the
body of these columns—— Of course the roof and floor must be
composed of broken ends of the Columns—such is Fingal’s Cave,
except that the Sea has done the work of excavations, and is
continually dashing there—so that we walk along the sides of the
cave on the pillars which are left as if for convenient stairs. The roof
is arched somewhat gothic-wise, and the length of some of the entire
side-pillars is fifty feet. About the island you might seat an army of
Men each on a pillar. The length of the cave is 120 feet, and from its
extremity the view into the sea, through the large Arch at the
entrance—the colour of the columns is a sort of black with a lurking
gloom of purple therein. For solemnity and grandeur it far surpasses
the finest Cathedral. At the extremity of the Cave there is a small
perforation into another cave, at which the waters meeting and
buffeting each other there is sometimes produced a report as of a
cannon heard as far as Iona, which must be twelve Miles. As we
approached in the boat, there was such a fine swell of the sea that
the pillars appeared rising immediately out of the crystal. But it is
impossible to describe it—
Not Aladdin magian

Ever such a work began.
Not the Wizard of the Dee
Ever such a dream could see,
Not St. John in Patmos Isle
In the passion of his toil
When he saw the churches seven
Golden-aisled built up in heaven
Gaz’d at such a rugged wonder.
As I stood its roofing under
Lo! I saw one sleeping there
On the marble cold and bare.
While the surges wash’d his feet
And his garments white did beat
Drench’d about the sombre rocks,
On his neck his well-grown locks
Lifted dry above the Main
Were upon the curl again—
“What is this? and what art thou?”
Whisper’d I, and touch’d his brow;
“What art thou? and what is this?”
Whisper’d I, and strove to kiss
The Spirit’s hand, to wake his eyes;
Up he started in a trice:
“I am Lycidas,” said he
“Fam’d in funeral Minstrelsy—
This was architected thus
By the great Oceanus.
Here his mighty waters play
Hollow Organs all the day,
Here, by turns, his dolphins all,
Finny palmers great and small,
Come to pay devotion due—
Each a mouth of pearls must strew!
Many a mortal of these days
Dares to pass our sacred ways,
Dares to touch, audaciously
This Cathedral of the sea—
I have been the Pontiff-priest,
Where the Waters never rest,
Where a fledgy sea-bird choir
Soars for ever—holy fire
I have hid from Mortal Man.
Proteus is my Sacristan
But the stupid eye of Mortal
Hath pass’d beyond the Rocky portal,
So for ever will I leave
Such a taint and soon unweave
All the magic of the place—
’Tis now free to stupid face—
To cutters and to fashion boats,
To cravats and Petticoats.
The great Sea shall war it down,
For its fame shall not be blown
At every farthing quadrille dance.”
So saying with a Spirit’s glance
He dived—
I am sorry I am so indolent as to write such stuff as this. It can’t be

helped. The western coast of Scotland is a most strange place—it is
composed of rocks, mountains, mountainous and rocky islands
intersected by lochs—you can go but a short distance anywhere
from salt water in the highlands.
Letters of John Keats (London and New York, 1891).
IN THE HIMALAYAS
(INDIA)
G. W. STEEVENS
In Calcutta they grumbled that the hot weather was beginning
already. Mornings were steamy, days sticky, and the municipal
impurities rose rankly. The carter squatted over his bullocks with his
shining body stark naked but for a loin-cloth.
At Siliguri, the bottom of the ascent to Darjiling, the rough grass and
the tea-gardens were sheeted at sunrise in a silver frost. What few
natives appeared happed their heads in shawls as if they had
toothache.
It takes you an afternoon and a night to get as far as Siliguri. What
you principally notice on the way is the dullness of the flat, moist
richness of Bengal, and the extraordinary fullness of the first-class
carriages. Even at this winter season the residents of Calcutta
snatch at the chance of being cold for twenty-four hours. When you
get out of your carriage at the junction station, you see on the other
side of the platform a dumpy little toy train—a train at the wrong end
of a telescope with its wheels cut from beneath it. Engines and
trucks and carriages seem to be crawling like snakes on their bellies.
Six miniature easy-chairs, three facing three, on an open truck with
an awning, make a first-class carriage.
This is the Darjiling-Himalaya Railway—two-foot gauge, climbing
four feet to the hundred for fifty miles up the foothills of the greatest
mountains in the world. It is extraordinary as the only line in India
that has been built with Indian capital. But you will find that the least
of its wonders. A flat-faced hillman bangs with a hammer twice three
times on a spare bit of railway metal hung up by way of a gong, the
whistle screams, and you pant away on surely the most entrancing
railway journey in the world. Nothing very much to make your heart
jump in the first seven miles. You bowl along the surface of a slightly
ascending cart-load, and your view is mostly bamboo and tea.
Graceful enough, and cool to the eye—the bamboos, hedges or
clumps of slender stem with plumes of pale leaf swinging and
nodding above them; the tea, trim ranks and files of short, well-
furnished bushes with lustrous, dark-green leaves, not unlike
evergreens or myrtle in a nursery at home,—but you soon feel that
you have known bamboo and tea all your life. Then suddenly you
begin to climb, and all at once you are in a new world—a world of
plants.
THE HIMALAYAS.
A new world is easy to say, but this is new indeed and a very world—
such a primeval vegetable world as you have read of in books and
eked out with dreams. It has everything you know in your world, only
everything expressed in vegetation. It is a world in its variety alone.
Trees of every kind rise up round you at every angle—unfamiliar,
most of them, and exaggerations of forms you know, as if they were
seen through a microscope. You might come on such broad fleshy
leaves by way of Jack’s giant bean-stalk. Other growths take the
form of bushes as high as our trees; but beside them are skinny,
stunted starvelings, such as the most niggardly country might show.
Then there are grasses—tufted, ruddy bamboo grass, and huge
yellow straws with giant bents leaning insolently over to flick your
face as you go by. Smaller still grow the ferns, lurking shyly in the
crevices of the banks. And over everything, most luxuriant of
everything, crawl hundred-armed creepers, knitting and knotting the
whole jungle into one mellay of struggling life.
The varieties—the trees and shrubs and grasses and ferns and
creepers—you would see in any tropical garden; but you could not
see them at home. You could not see them in their unpruned native
intercourse one with the other. The rise and fall of the ground, the
whims of light and air, coax them into shapes that answer to the
most fantastic imagination. Now you are going through the solemn
aisles of a great cathedral—grey trunks for columns, with arches and
vaulted roofs of green, with dark, retreating chapels and altar-
trappings of mingled flowers. Now it is a king’s banqueting-hall,
tapestried with white-flowering creeper and crimson and purple
bougainvillea; overhead the scarlet-mahogany blossoms of a sparse-
leaved tulip-tree might be butterflies frescoed on a ceiling.
Fancy can compel the wilderness into moments of order, but wild it
remains. The growths are not generally buildings, but animate
beings in a real world. You see no perfectly shaped tree, as in a park
or garden; one is warped, another stunted, another bare below—
each formed, like men, by the pressure of a thousand fellows. Here
is a corpse spreading white, stark arms abroad. Here are half-a-
dozen young creatures rolling over each other like puppies at play.
And there is a creeper flinging tumultuous, enraptured arms round a
stately tree; presently it is gripping it in thick bands like Laocöon’s
serpent, then choking it mercilessly to death, then dead itself, its
bleached, bare streamers dangling limply in the wind. It is life,
indeed, this forest—plants fighting, victorious and vanquished; loving
and getting children; springing and waxing and decaying and dying—
our own world of men translated into plants.
While I am spinning similitudes, the Darjiling-Himalaya Railway is
panting always upwards, boring through the thick world of trees like
a mole. Now it sways round a curve so short that you can almost
look back into the next carriage, and you understand why the wheels
are so low. Now it stops dead, and almost before it stops starts
backwards up a zigzag, then forwards up another, and on again. In a
moment it is skating on the brink of a slide of shale that trembles to
come down and overwhelm it; next it is rumbling across a bridge
above the point it passed ten minutes ago, and also that which it will
reach ten minutes hence. Twisting, backing, circling, dodging, but
always rising, it untreads the skein whose end is in the clouds and
the snows.
Presently the little engine draws quite clear of the jungle. You skirt
opener slopes, and the blue plain below is no longer a fleeting vista,
but a broad prospect. You see how the forest spills itself on to the
fields and spreads into a dark puddle over their lightness. You see a
great river overlaying the dimness with a ribbon of steel. The ferns
grow thicker about you; gigantic fronds bow at you from gullies
overhead, and you see the tree-fern—a great crown of drooping
green on a trunk of a man’s height—standing superbly alone,
knowing its supreme gracefulness. Next, as you rise and rise, the air
gets sharp; through a gauzy veil of mist appear again huge forests,
but dark and gloomy with brown moss dripping dankly from every
branch. Rising, rising, and you have now come to Ghoom, the
highest point. Amid the cold fog appears the witch of Ghoom—a
hundred years old, with a pointed chin and mop of grizzled hair all
witch-fashion, but beaming genially and requesting backsheesh.
Then round a corner—and here is Darjiling. A scattered settlement
on a lofty ridge, facing a great cup enclosed by other ridges—
mountains elsewhere, here hills. Long spurs run down into the
hollow, half black with forest, half pale and veined with many paths.
At the bottom is a little chequer of fresh green millet; the rim at the
top seems to line the sky.
And the Himalayas and the eternal snows? The devil a Himalaya in
sight. Thick vapours dip down and over the very rim of the cup;
beyond Darjiling is a tumult of peaked creamy cloud. You need not
be told it,—clouds that hide mountains always ape their shapes,—
the majestic Himalayas are behind that screen, and you will not see
them to-day, nor perhaps to-morrow, nor yet for a fortnight of to-
morrows.
You must console yourself with Darjiling and the hillmen. And
Darjiling is pleasant to the eye as you look down on it, a huddle of
grey corrugated-iron roofs, one stepping over the other, hugging the
hillside with one or two red ones to break the monotone. There is no
continuous line of them: each stands by itself in a ring of deep green
first. The place is cool and grateful after an Indian town—clean and
roomy, a place of homes and not of pens.
In the middle of it is the bazaar, and my day, by luck, was market-
day. Here, again, you could never fancy yourself in India. A few
Hindus there are, but beside the dumpy hillmen their thin limbs, tiny
features, and melting eyes seem hardly human. More like the men
you know is the Tibetan, with a long profile and long, sharp nose,
though his hat has the turned-up brim of the Chinese, though he
wears a long bottle-green dressing-gown open to the girdle, and his
pigtail knocks at the back of his knees. But the prevailing type,
though as Mongolian, is far more genial than the Tibetan. Squat little
men, for the most part, fill the bazaar, with broad faces that give
room for the features, with button noses, and slits for eyes. They
wear boots and putties, or gaiters made of many-coloured carpet-
bagging; and their women are like them—with shawls over their
heads, and broad sashes swathing them from bosom to below the
waist, with babies slung behind their backs, not astride on the hip as
are the spawn of India. Their eyes are black as sloes—puckered,
too, but seeming puckered with laughter; and their clear yellow skins
are actually rosy on the cheeks, like a ripe apricot. Square-faced,
long-pigtailed, plump, cheery, open of gaze, and easy of carriage,
rolling cigarettes, and offering them to soothe babies—they might not
be beautiful in Europe; here they are ravishing.

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22 ​ The Ordeal of Reconstruction ​ 1865–1877 465

The defeated South ​• ​The freed slaves ​• ​President Andrew Johnson’s

U ​C ontending V oices ​

23 ​ Political Paralysis in the Gilded Age ​ 1869–1896 488

Ulysses S. Grant, soldier-president ​• ​Corruption and reform in the post-Civil

tariff ​ • ​Benjamin Harrison and the “Billion Dollar Congress” ​• ​The

24 ​ Industry Comes of Age ​ 1865–1900 512

The railroad boom ​• ​Speculators and financiers ​• ​Early efforts at government

25 ​ America Moves to the City ​ 1865–1900 539

The rise of the city ​• ​The “New Immigrants” ​• ​Settlement houses and social

The growth of higher education ​• ​The reading public ​• ​The “New Woman”

26 ​ The Great West and the Agricultural Revolution ​

The conquest of the Indians ​• ​The mining and cattle frontiers ​• ​Free lands

U ​E xamining the E vidence ​ ​Robert Louis Stevenson’s Transcontinental Journey,

27 ​ Empire and Expansion ​ 1890–1909 607

The sources of American expansionism ​• ​The Hawaii question ​• ​The

28 ​ Progressivism and the Republican Roosevelt ​ 1901–1912 638

Campaigning against social injustice ​• ​The muckrakers ​• ​The politics of

Taft’s “dollar diplomacy” ​• ​Roosevelt breaks with Taft ​• ​The election of

29 ​ Wilsonian Progressivism in Peace and War ​ 1913–1920 663

U ​C ontending V oices ​ Battle of the Ballot ​ 679

30 ​ American Life in the “Roaring Twenties” ​ 1920–1929 692

The “red scare” ​• ​The KKK returns ​• ​Immigration restriction, 1921–1924 ​• ​

Chronology ​/ ​Key Terms ​/ ​People to Know ​/ ​To Learn More ​ 718–719

31 ​ The Politics of Boom and Bust ​ 1920–1932 720

The Republicans return to power, 1921 ​• ​Disarmament and isolation ​• ​The

32 ​ The Great Depression and the New Deal ​ 1933–1939 742

Franklin D. Roosevelt as president ​• ​The Hundred Days Congress, 1933 ​• ​

1937 ​• ​The New Deal assessed

33 ​ Franklin D. Roosevelt and the Shadow of War ​ 1933–1941 769

Roosevelt’s early foreign policies ​• ​German, Japanese, and Italian aggression ​

34 ​ America in World War II ​ 1941–1945 789

The shock of war ​• ​The internment of Japanese Americans ​• ​Mobilizing the

35 ​ The Cold War Begins ​ 1945–1952 820

Harry S. Truman as president ​• ​Origins of the Cold War ​• ​The United

• ​Domestic policy in the Truman years ​• ​Postwar prosperity ​• ​The

36 ​ American Zenith ​ 1952–1963 850

Affluent America ​• ​Working women and feminism ​• ​Consumer culture in the

U ​C ontending V oices ​ The “Kitchen Debate” ​ 867

37 ​ The Stormy Sixties ​ 1963–1973 884

Lyndon Baines Johnson takes charge ​• ​Johnson versus Goldwater, 1964 ​• ​

U ​C ontending V oices ​ Differing Visions of Black Freedom ​ 890

38 ​ Challenges to the Postwar Order ​ 1973–1980 911

The Watergate scandal and Nixon’s resignation ​• ​The politics of stagflation ​

39 ​ The Resurgence of Conservatism ​ 1980–1992 933

40 ​ America Confronts the Post–Cold War Era ​ 1992–2000 957

41 ​ The American People Face a New Century ​ 2001–2014 979

George W. Bush as president ​• ​The terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001 ​• ​

36.3 Vietnam and Southeast Asia, 1954–1975 878

“And thither where beneath the showery west

29th August, 1814.

“——that wondrous dome,

Lord of the Isles. Canto IV. St. 10.

Not Aladdin magian

22 The Ordeal of Reconstruction 1865–1877 465

The defeated South • The freed slaves • President Andrew Johnson’s

U C ontending V oices

23 Political Paralysis in the Gilded Age 1869–1896 488

Ulysses S. Grant, soldier-president • Corruption and reform in the post-Civil

tariff • Benjamin Harrison and the “Billion Dollar Congress” • The

24 Industry Comes of Age 1865–1900 512

The railroad boom • Speculators and financiers • Early efforts at government

25 America Moves to the City 1865–1900 539

The rise of the city • The “New Immigrants” • Settlement houses and social

The growth of higher education • The reading public • The “New Woman”

26 The Great West and the Agricultural Revolution

The conquest of the Indians • The mining and cattle frontiers • Free lands

U E xamining the E vidence Robert Louis Stevenson’s Transcontinental Journey,

27 Empire and Expansion 1890–1909 607

The sources of American expansionism • The Hawaii question • The

28 Progressivism and the Republican Roosevelt 1901–1912 638

Campaigning against social injustice • The muckrakers • The politics of

Taft’s “dollar diplomacy” • Roosevelt breaks with Taft • The election of

29 Wilsonian Progressivism in Peace and War 1913–1920 663

U C ontending V oices Battle of the Ballot 679

30 American Life in the “Roaring Twenties” 1920–1929 692

The “red scare” • The KKK returns • Immigration restriction, 1921–1924 •

Chronology / Key Terms / People to Know / To Learn More 718–719

31 The Politics of Boom and Bust 1920–1932 720

The Republicans return to power, 1921 • Disarmament and isolation • The

32 The Great Depression and the New Deal 1933–1939 742

Franklin D. Roosevelt as president • The Hundred Days Congress, 1933 •

1937 • The New Deal assessed

33 Franklin D. Roosevelt and the Shadow of War 1933–1941 769

Roosevelt’s early foreign policies • German, Japanese, and Italian aggression

34 America in World War II 1941–1945 789

The shock of war • The internment of Japanese Americans • Mobilizing the

35 The Cold War Begins 1945–1952 820

Harry S. Truman as president • Origins of the Cold War • The United

• Domestic policy in the Truman years • Postwar prosperity • The

36 American Zenith 1952–1963 850

Affluent America • Working women and feminism • Consumer culture in the

U C ontending V oices The “Kitchen Debate” 867

37 The Stormy Sixties 1963–1973 884

Lyndon Baines Johnson takes charge • Johnson versus Goldwater, 1964 •

U C ontending V oices Differing Visions of Black Freedom 890

38 Challenges to the Postwar Order 1973–1980 911

The Watergate scandal and Nixon’s resignation • The politics of stagflation

39 The Resurgence of Conservatism 1980–1992 933

40 America Confronts the Post–Cold War Era 1992–2000 957

41 The American People Face a New Century 2001–2014 979

George W. Bush as president • The terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001 •